Midea U Window AC 8000BTU - 108° TORTURE TEST 🥵🥵🥵
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2023
- #airconditioner #airconditioning #midea
Followup torture test at 108° FIRE!!! Wow what a difference!!!
@richardsmith1161 was correct; outside heat appears to drive power consumption
@CapeCodChrisJ you can run the 4090 safely in the blazing summer heat...on ECO LOW - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for the update. Your review has been the most helpful for me.
Had a chuckle every time you said 1200 BTU instead of 12,000 BTU. LOL
Really good info! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing !(Specially with the wattage usage).
Planning on installing it on a camper van and every watt counts ;-)
👍 Excellent video, thanks
Just wanted to say iv never run into a more perfect video lol.
Was thinking of buying this for my room (i live in florida) and my new 7600x + 7800xt system will be on the same circuit and just wanted to see what kinda power draw this had.
And you have a video showing it all on a lets burn it down day outside with conputers in mind. Just amazing
🍻🍻🍻😂
Could you tell me what window ac unit you bought? From a fellow Florida man to another 😁🙏🏿
Would you mind sharing a link to your electric meter tool or describe brand and where to buy?
Seriously thank you for doing this test because that was exactly my worry. I have 3 PCs in my small room and gets so stuffy. I wanted to buy a low BTU AC to just help a bit compared to my living room AC. I just didn't want to destroy the breaker or start a fire. I think being careful with my PC usage + the lower end 400 watts seems like a good way to go with this while still feeling comfortable in the room.
When we hit 105 F earlier this week, my 12,000 BTU unit showed as pulling 1168.87 watts. That's the highest I've seen thus far. When we hit 102 F on another day, it checked in at 1033 watts.
Nice. Was this on high? 105 yesterday and after the initial runup on low I was sitting on 350 watts. It was barely cutting it with 3 PCs running games generating a lot of heat.
@@junbox618 - I had both fan and mode set on auto in both cases. At least for the 105 temp, the fan sounded as if it were running at highest speed at that time of measurement.
@@junbox618 - No, on auto, although at that moment the fan was running at what seemed to be high speed.
Thanks for posting. It helped me decide which one I need to use with my small generator.
Midea unit ?
I purchased a 12K BTU for a 400 sq ft room, we have central air and are elec. cost between 33 Cents a KWH to 75 cents KWH, between and 4pm and 9 pm the elec. is really expensive, I run the Midea after the central AC has cooled down the house, and then I turn the central AC up to 80 degrees, the Midea does most of the medium lifting. It is really nice when the TV is on, it is very quite, with central AC on, the tv must be turned up to 23, with the Midea around 9. Our summers are 95 to 115 low humidity around 33. First month using it, I wonder how the elec. bill will work out. Right now we are in a heat wave.
I used Midea Windows Units. They will stabilize once you reach the room temp you programmed...Why it's always a good idea to buy one one size bigger then you think you need..it runs less. Cools faster and last longer. Just clean them once a year with Frost King foam..
And don't worry about Amps used. As the NFPA70 rates the circuits at 100% only when on constant loads. Which for 20 amp breaker is 16.5 amps...That number can be 20 amps for short duration loads like startup and inductive loads...Which only stay on for 1 hour or less..As it's all about heat buildup of wiring...
This summer really made me reconsider my power usage and I've been more mindful with my PCs. My house sucks. If I hit near a combined 1700 watts for just a couple seconds my 15 amp breaker will trip. Quality tract homes in California
Switched to a gaming laptop with a 180watt power supply that's significantly more powerful than my old PC with 500 watt supply so I can run my laptop and the Midea for a combined 500 watts! Cool room, less heat generation, win win
@@junbox618 Why not just add a 20 amp circuit from the panel? Might cost you 2 hours to install one and be done with it..
@@junbox618 Great videos...thank you.
I have two of these in my old family house in Kansas.
The central air system died...and I was worried what to do.
I paid $1100 for two of them that are 12k units.
They are awesome...I never use eco mode. Just high mode and kept the house at 70 degrees and ran them 24/7.
My bill in the summer for central air was $350 a month for electric.
Now my bill is 125-$150 only.
They paid for themselves in just one year easily.
@@WizzRacing the wiring in the circuit also has to support 20 amps, not just the breaker. You’d rather the breaker jump than the wiring turning into a long fuse…
@@laneweaver3562 I didn't say a Breaker. I said a 20amp "Circuit" as a 20amp Circuit is rated for 16.5 amp continuous load..
Need advice before buying online.
Could I install it in an 20 inch window (door) frame?
They say 22-36"
But seems like the AC is less then 20" large.
So I wonder if it would be possible.
Thx for your help!
can you do a test of how fast it can cool on high settings vs low settings and what temp is the room? and all those interesting values?
I seem to have a working unit because it does function like an ac. It was 85 after I installed it, and when it turned on, it was running full blast until it hit the setpoint and it stabilized
Informative stuff! I just got the 8000 for a 200sq/ft office here in the Phoenix area - all Summer the temps are above 105 and regularly hit 116. I only plan to run it for 3 hours each day on an ecoflow generator (getting 3k+ WPH) during the worst of the day (between 3pm-6pm) while turning off the central air - so it will be a very interesting test to see how it handles things! Thoughts?
ECO mode just means that the fan cycles on and off instead of constant on. Does not change compressor duty cycle. On other Midea/Toshiba/Whynter models it may be labeled Fan-Continuous on/off
I bought a 4070TI last January, but I have to say it runs really nice and cool. I've heard it has similar cooling to the 4080 but with less processing it can stay pretty cool, I don't play many cutting edge games and I game at 1080p 60fps (120 if I can get the game to do it lol). I would love to do 120fps a lot but I find most of the games I play actually bottleneck and stutter and drop to 90 fps, so I just stick with 60. Anyways the gpu only draws like 30 to 100 watts depending on what game I'm playing. Typically the core stays in the 40c range and the fans for the gpu don't even run at that low a consumption... It's a happy medium for me, it runs fairly cool, draws little power, all benefits in the summer.
Thanks for the video. For those of us that are sometimes looking to run off the grid from solar panels is there a more optimum solution than converting from the solar panel charged batteries with an inverter from DC to AC and then convert back from AC to DC with the air conditioner inverter?
For solar we have much more limited power. For those with well insulated homes, from the information in your video, I'm wondering if I should be running the AC more when it is the coolest outside to minimize power draw? I realize this model does not do this, but would be great to be able to set the maximum power used and have the AC do the best it can and alert when can't cool incoming air below current inside temperature.
Anyone else working on saving money by running AC off solar or running in an off-grid location?
Thanks.
I don't like new air conditioners but these with the inverter technology and a separate fan motor for the condenser outside versus the indoor motor is a genius idea for a window air conditioner and having it be an inverter should make them Superior to the traditional on off units I bought an 8 and a 12 and I put them both on individual outlet surge protectors and I run them off of my hotspot for control with the app.
Was your 8k BTU window AC powerful enough for the 108° weather? Or would you consider a 12k BTU window unit?
Honestly the initial draw isn’t too bad when you consider that it will idle at a much lower wattage once the unit stabilizes the temperature in the room.
Yea this test was the worst case scenario coming into a heat soaked room. Still nothing compared to running our central AC.
That’s awesome to know I set up some solar panels and a delta pro and extra battery… my electricity bill has over tripled in the last 4 years
Could you do a power draw test on dry mode? Even just posting what it settles to as a comment would be much appreciated.
If I remember maybe I'll return in July or August on a nice 95 degree day with 90% humidity to let you know what my 12,000 BTU unit is drawing. I know my 5,000 btu unit draws 9 to 11 amps on days like that, really hoping this unit won't max out at 15 amps lol but I guess I will find out. I sometimes run a fan that's 300 watts on the same circuit as the AC, but fortunately that's all that runs on it, so I can afford to have it draw 1200 watts which is the max I've seen reported from the 12,000 btu unit.
I have the 8000 BTU unit. The temperature in my backyard hit 104.7 last week. I keep mine in auto mode set at 70°. As of June 23rd my unit has used 77.9 kilowatt hours for the month of June. I don't think it's ever gone above 700 w. The house is always nice and cool and comfortable.
When i first got mine it worked amazing but after a few months it barely seems to cool sometimes
Yea worse case scenario unless u live in 115° weather during summer😅
Thanks for the review. I'm thinking about the 12K BTU from Costco at $399.
I heard some Costcos have the 12K model for $280!! A steal!!!
@@junbox618 Not in Texas🤣🤣
319 in NY
@@Papichoochoo1969 Yeah, but it's New York😂
I snagged my 12K BTU unit from Amazon back at the end of May for $339.99 before tax.
I just bought the 12,000 btu unit tonight.
You never tested it with Eco mode off, would have been a nice comparison to make.
I just got mine here in Ma. I have an old house I hope I didnt over buy mine 12000 btu
Where did you get that meter?
changing the fan speed befor the room cools doesn't really say how much power this unit will be using. changing fan speed low will cool down room in 2 hours, med 1 hour high 30 minutes. times are just my guess but the proportion is the example. it would be interesting to run the fan speeds again after the room has reached temp. l you have to remove the the same mount latent heat in the room no matter hat the fan speed is.
That voltage tester puts my Kill-A-Watt to shame.
Do you have a link for it?
there are a few that look very similar but the vivosun electricity usage monitor has the correct display format.
I live in Florida, have a garage converted into a "computer room" where my wife and I game, plus we keep our pet snake in this room. It's kind of insane owning a snake, the ambient room temp needs to be about 72, if it's hotter it'll be that hot in the snake's enclosure or more since there's a heat lamp and pad on the "hot side" and will hurt her ability to thermoregulate. The room is exposed to direct sunlight all day and even with the central air (which is an old unit I don't want to break, replacing it would be in excess of 12 grand) set to 74 to 76 it'll be 83-88 degrees in here because of the snake, the computers, and the direct exposure to the sun. I have a 5,000 btu unit in my window right now that has to run basically 16 hours a day in the summer to keep it in the 70s in this room. I was very curious about power draw with this unit but there's not a lot of info on it, this video was great for that.
Now my biggest concern is water draining. With 90% plus humidity the 5,000 btu unit literally puts out 1-2 gallons of water a DAY, seeing that the unit has the cold side in the house I'm curious to see if it's going to just dump water down the walls lol, I've seen people modify and add drainage to this unit which I think I'll need to do as well as possibly insulating the cold side to ensure water doesn't condensate and drip on the outside of the unit. I've seen pictures of it happening, and I'm sure it'd rot out the window in a year if I just let it drip drip drip all day and night...
I grew up in the northeast but my wife is from Tampa so we moved here... I don't know how people survived here before AC units were invented. It would've been brutal...
Even with the 5,000btu unit running nonstop in the summer months if my wife and I both gamed it'd easily get up to 83-86 with the unit on, if she's gaming I typically just wait since I'm pretty casual, I rather not game than have AC blasting and maintaining 83 lol.
Interesting, mine on low not on eco at 90 degrees ramps to 400 and stays at around 250ish.
If you see my first review at around 80 degrees it was even less with a max around 330
250 watt wow make a video
I’ve got coming tools that go to 1700-1800 watts so 500-600 won’t be to bad
this is the inverter unit right?
How does the fan button does not change the wattage much in fan mode, but it changes significantly in cool mode? The manual does not really highlight how the fan button changes the cooling power
Less airflow over the evaporator probably makes the compressor run less to avoid icing and save energy if the fan isn’t running full speed
I'm honestly stunned it can go over 900 watts.
Me too! Being only 800BTU I thought it would top out around 700.
It's 104 outside right now and I've had it on all day on eco low. Sitting at 360 watts now...
😂😂😂Guys energy don't just come from no where. If you need to cool a 100 degree room, your a/c will need more power. If your a/c can't draw out 1100 watts then it might be broken.
Mine are the heat pump version non u-shape.
Once the room get down in temperature do all of these numbers change? I would think if the intake air is 85 its going to work harder to cool the room off. But once the temp has gone it wouldnt be.?
You're right; the high spike is when you first turn it on. At steady temps eco low wattage settles around 375.
Once the room reaches set temp the compressor gradually shuts off and the wattage goes back down into the teens and eventually the fan shuts off. When it kicks back on, it doesn't spike as high and eventually settles at around 375 again.
@@junbox618 what temp is coming out at outside X degrees?
@@pyrocl0I don't have a way to measure but it's ice cold in all temps, I can't tell the difference. The only difference is the compressor is noticeably louder and consumes a lot more power when it's super hot
@@pyrocl0 Seems all Midea will hit low 50's once it cools the room down.. As I keep a temp probe stuck in my vents. And you will know it. As it will shut down once the desired temp is reached...
Just having this a/c and nothing else on the circuit, I think this would trip a 10A breaker. Right?
When it's in the 80s 90s, eco low doesn't spike past 400watts, roughly 3-4amps. I guess it depends on how hot it gets where you live!
When I started mine at 108 it had to work really hard initially. After awhile it settled down and didn't spike again. If I had the AC unit on earlier in the day before it hit 108, I don't think it would have spiked like that.
Also noticed at our house some of our 15amp breakers trip long before we hit the 1800watt theoretical sum total. But then again I live in a poorly built suburban home where some of my breakers weren't even screwed in and loosely set on the box...but that's a whole other story...
Not bad efficiency, but that's on ECO mode. We'll have to see it again in ECO mode off.
My Mitsubishi mini split can do 9000-ish BTU at around 800-850W while boosting to 12000-ish BTU@1.1kW (~40 degC outside)
nice tests. helpful to me cus i'm trying to see how much money this might save over using my central heat pump unit. since i live by myself and spend most of my time in my room anyway.
however i think ideally i might want at least the capability to cool both my room and the adjacent open living space. this is probably like 600 sq ft altogether. i know the unit is rated at 550 ft, but i've seen another video where he says it handles his 1k ft space no problem. talking about the 12k btu unit.
i only wish when you were doing the high setting you had waited to see if it settled to a much lower peak. you just went to 880 watts peak, then went back to low.
btw i live in east tx so we have seen quite a few 105-107 days this year. although normally its not that bad this year was a huge outlier. normally we might only barely break 100 a few times.
anyways crunching some numbers, even at 900 watts, i pay about 15c/kwh, so thats roughly 15c an hour rounding everything up. so if it ran full tilt 24 hrs it would be $3.60 per day, or for 30 days it would cost $108 to run. not counting everything else in the house, but too be fair hvac is the major electric consumer in homes. my electric bills this outlier summer have been around 200 for 3 months, with the highest at 228. but without knowing how much exactly my central hvac is contributing to those bills, other than assuming it's the majority, it's hard to judge. I'm going to do more research on that by watching my meter when the HVAC is turned off.
The $108 is absolute WORSTTTT case scenario though. In reality I would expect it to be far far less, maybe half at most, on average. That assumes running full tilt 900 watts 24/7. Which reality would likely be nowhere close. Especially in that at times I would probably be only cooling my bedroom and not the whole 600 ft living space (for example at night for sure when I'm sleeping)
In reality, wild guess, I'm getting the idea using this instead of my central unit might save...500 a year? Maybe 100 in the 3 heaviest summer months, and then 200 combined the rest of the year? Is that worth it for the hassle? Plus the unit itself would run 300-500 depending if I could get a great sale or not. Probably not worth it if I'm being honest. But I really need to double check the numbers, because if it saves 1000 instead of 500 that gets a lot more compelling.
BUT I tell you what I'm also interested in, when/if my central hvac goes out, I know it'll cost a mint to replace. I already replaced it once 10yrs ago (10 yr warranty is up!) and it cost 3400 then, and that was a deal. I'm guessing it would be over 6 grand today. I'd be heavily inclined to just purchase one of these for
Come to California everything is perfect here and you can pay 52c/kwh and pay $1000 to register your EV. :)
I think the bigger unit could cool both rooms. My son's room is adjacent to my office and sometimes we blow a fan from my office into his room to cool it down. Seems to work OK
is it inverter right? doest the wattage goes down after a few hours? i think you should try that test. :)
When the compressor eventually kicks off, it goes down to about 150 watts. Then it cruises around 150-400. Today was 108 outside and was at 400 watts hours later
Why do you have towel roll under front pf unit?
With the install kit due to the shape of the AC and the kit it creates two small gaps to the outside. I ran out of insulation used on the sides and top before I noticed the gaps. I'll probably cover them with insulation later on.
At end of video, your settings are- ECO on-- COOL mode -- LOW fan. How does ECO influence combo of COOL mode with LOW fan?
Regarding tests throughout video, if you test each of your settings over a longer time, 15 minutes each, do you see same readings from start to end of 15 minutes?
Also, what existing readings do you have as a baseline in the space before turning on the Media u channel? And at the last of video?
From what I'm seeing eco changes how aggressive the auto programming works. If the compressor is on, it's on. Increasing the fan speed with compressor on increases wattage way more.
Compressor ramps up and down to maintain output temp, even when it's not at goal temperature. That's why I mention on a super hot day it seems to level off at around 370w after it runs up.
When I ran this test the room was completely heat soaked upstairs with 108+ outside temp.
@@junbox618 I really like how these units adjust for fan speed. My old unit (non inverter window AC) had icing issues, usually when the sun went down and the temp dropped outside but not inside. I hope my new unit will account for the temp changes and prevent the icing issue I have, fingers crossed.
the 12000btu is 1140 watts, the 10000btu is about 890 watts. actual usage seems very close to this.
6:19 the box said it‘s 8.78 amp. Does that mean it‘s maximum?
I wonder what your tests would prove if done after you let unit run long enough to find its steady for your room?
I wish the cord was longer than 4.9 feet. Can‘t safely run on an extension cord.
My meter displays current amps.
Once it gets going, it won't spike again and will cruise between 100-370watts on Eco Low (roughly 1-3 amps).
If we're about to start up our gaming PCs and the AC is just coming on, I don't start playing until the watts settle down.
Why can't it safely run on an extension of the proper wire gauge? My unit is plugged into a extension cable specified for an A/C unit.
@@lonniemcclure4538 You can. Just keep it short as possible..
I have the 8000btu as well this thing seem to have a mind all it’s on, it changes mode and fan speed no matter what I set it to, I had to do a restart on it because all the buttons stopped responding, it is very quiet but seem like it basically just adjust to the outside more so than the inside.
I think it's supposed to do that. I thought mine was broken too. If it's set on "cold" and it reaches a temperature, it'll turn the fan off completely. Then it'll kick up again as the room warms up.
Make sure you have the Midea app installed on a phone or tablet. It actually will update the firmware on the air conditioning if there is an update available. We had a Midea portable that used to "porpoise" a bit like you describe but a firmware update sorted it out (about 80%).
Interesting, thanks. Too many apps today.
Hi, Does this unit also heat the room in the winter?
Only the 12kBTU produces heat?
It has a heat function but I haven't tried it since I got it this summer. I probably will never need it with all the computers on in my office.
Set on AUTO mode and LOW fan. 74F temp. Best combo.
This is why air conditioners should be on a separate circuit.
What kinda perfect world do you live in lol
@@A_Name_ If there's room in your panel it's an almost trivial task to run a dedicated circuit. You do it once then never have to worry about tripping a breaker again.
@@theripper121 there isn't. But even if there was I rent. Thanks for the completely unhelpful and condescending reply. 👍
@@A_Name_ You are welcome 👍
Is the WIFI off by default? I get headaches from WIFI, do not need WIFI running even when I am not using it
There's no button to turn it on or off, so I assume it's always on. I don't have the app
WIfi only works once you configure it...
If you open the cover(like you are cleaning the filter) there’s a USB plug that you could unplug the WiFi option
"I get headaches from wifi" I think that's your tinfoil hat too tight
Midea customer service is the worst. After a month of haggling, they denied warranty reimbursement on a new unit with 8 hours on it.
900 watts is what a coffee pot uses...
I got the midea 6000 btu window unit for a small room in my house. It actually cools it however it raises the humidity to 70% and at time higher. It's ridiculous! Yeah it will say it's a nice comfy 70 % but because of the extreme humidity it pumps into the room it feels warm. I'm in the process of returning it! It's junk!
Interesting. My area is so dry the added humidity feels ok
There's a "dry" mode on the AC, if you haven't tried that.
@andrewyouv I tried the dry mode. It didn't help. I've already returned it. I replaced it with an LG window unit. 15 minutes after installing and turning it on the room was a comfy 70 degrees and only 38% humidity. Oh, and this was while it was 100 degrees outside.
@number1pappy what exact LG model please?
@@Starry_Night_Sky7455 LG 6,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner, LW6019ER
What about when it is not in eco mode
Not a huge difference from what I've seen in both wattage and cool air. Maybe the algorithm is different between the two on how aggressive the compressor kicks on and off.
It's really adequate on eco. It keeps our room cool with central AC off and 3 PCs blowing hot air. We have a 3060ti, 3050ti, and a 1070 running all at the same time. It's a triple furnace.
@@junbox618 If your running all those PCs (little Crypto mining) you shouldn't worry about AC wattage consumption to stay cool LOL
@@diesel6916 he aint' crypto mining on that, not even worth it, he's gaming and yeah it matters if you don't want to start a fire at the socket
Based on the hype by Amazon, I bought the 12,000 BTU Midea U Window AC. I don't think it is quiet, I don't think it properly cools our bedroom
which is about 220 sf. In addition, it comes with Mickey Mouse foam rubber blocks to use to close up the remainder of a standard window. I
don't think it is any improvement in any area compared to a 6,000 BTU standard unit by a GE. I wish I hadn't bought the Midea AC 12,000 unit
which 12k do you think would cool better than the Midea U?
Interesting becuz it works really well for thousands of buyers 😂 i guess u just have bad luck unlike us 😂😂😂😂😂
Someone said this was the most efficient air condition. Is that true?
I can't speak for other ACs but this unit is crazy efficient. I'm really happy that it doesn't have a watt spike like other ACs; meaning it's not going to trip my breaker with 3 computers on at the same time
It is at this time probably the most efficient WINDOW unit one can purchase. Mini-splits, however, can go much higher in efficiency. This unit has a CEER rating of 15, while it isn't that difficult to find a mini-split with a SEER above 20.
You didn’t really do a torture test because you never tested the regular cool mode without eco. And you can’t really just say that it’s about the same. You have to actually show it in the video.
And don’t say that the eco mode is cold enough. Maybe for you but a lot of people do use the cool non-eco mode. I mean that’s what it’s there for, right?
Eco on or off doesn't change the temp of the cool air coming off the unit and runs at similar wattage.
And you're right. I didn't show it on video I could be a liar!!!
@@junbox618 lol
It should do better if left on auto all day.
What to do if I'm in the room for 2-3 hours on a weekend? Overall electricty use would be much higher if left on all day.
@@junbox618 You set the temp higher.. That way it will only run for short periods. On some remotes it's called C Sense...Better if you have the Wifi model. You can turn it on or off from anywhere..
370 watt is nothing amazing