Mapping Your Home to Optimize Air Sealing
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Mapping where air enters and leaves your home's building envelope is the first step to understanding how to control it. Controlling how your home interacts with air is the first step to better energy efficiency, indoor air quality and comfort. Follow our professional field specialist as we learn more about common culprits and how to fix them.
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This is super helpful. Watching pros do it makes me feel a lot more comfortable doing it myself!
my house has a nearly identical attic. I live in Vancouver. We recently removed all the vermiculite and cellulose. and sprayed biocide to kill the milldew mould. and then sprayed a preventative clear layer to prevent future mould. we increased the ventilation in the soffits and roof. and we air sealed everything. now we are putting in rockwool insulation everywhere. Not sure yet what to do about the vapour barrier. If anyone wants to compare notes, reach out!
Great vid - Would’ve liked to see a little more info on the fireplace perimeter seal, I’m working on this myself.
I was hesitant to hire for this job so I’m doing it myself, but I would trust this crew to do a good / thorough job 👍
Thanks! If you are in the Pacific Northwest, there are many fantastic contractors that all take similar trainings on our contract finder:
comfortreadyhome.com/contractor-search. And whether you continue on your own or end up with a contractor, this resource can help with a little more specific information:
comfortreadyhome.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/CRH-Single-Family-Prescriptive-Air-Sealing-At-A-Glance.pdf
DAN! So proud to have come up in the trade with this guy, we miss you in the northwest. Air sealing details are something we train hard with our crews on, it is critical for energy efficiency, healthy IAQ, comfort, and building durability. We get one chance to do it right ahead of insulating, make sure you hire a pro who will sweat these details!!
Totally agree! Understanding the systematic workings of the building and creating a thoughtful plan with good craftsmanship is the key to success. Keep up the good work.
Great information! I recommend completely extracting all insulation, so you can see all the penetrations, its amazing how much you can miss with insulation in the way.
Thanks for the recommendation. It is certainly great to remove existing insulation to make the air sealing job easier and ensure thoroughness. When it is not feasible to remove insulation or if the existing insulation is in good condition, mapping out the where the walls, architectural details and lights are from the living space can give a very complete and precise mapping of where penetrations are likely to be.
@@ComfortReadyHome I agree; however, when it comes to icedamming certain situations will require more than just air sealing. Moving ducts, vents, and using better insulation materials. I tried doing it without full extraction on two buildings for 11 years and finally exhausted myself of paying roofers to shovel snow off the roof only to discover damage in the spring from aggressive snow shoveling. You are right though, if you can avoid the cost, and fix it, then go the simple route:)
I had the old insulation in my attic removed entirely, my home rewired and then the attic and basement were air sealed. The insulation work was meticulously done by BPI contractors. Then new cellulose insulation was blown in.
That’s the way to do it!
Will air sealing stop rising humidity in a home ?
Wish you’d shown how you dealt with sealing the mount for the big rectangular light box in the kitchen.
The mount is held up by fasteners to the joists. These fasteners don’t typically pose a compromise to air leakage. The air sealing opportunity was where the wiring comes through. The wiring typically runs through a drilled hole that feeds to an electrical junction box fastened to the joist. The team was able to access the wiring as it came through the ceiling and install some spray foam at the penetration. This application looks very similar to the video cover image: i9.ytimg.com/vi/peGZpxePEs4/sddefault.jpg?v=65288c40&sqp=CPCLvqsG&rs=AOn4CLD7IOs4Bv4WBjE7vyQSmh-1Pi4H2w
Were you guys able to seal the top plates around the perimeter of the house (outside walls).
If so, how did you do it?
Also, do you need to spray foam each rafter that makes contact with the drywall ceiling?
Thank you for your question! In most homes, the top plate should be accessible on the outer walls. The part that should be air sealed is where the drywall or lathe and plaster meet the top plate and where perpendicular walls are connected. Electrical lines sometimes go through here to porch lights and switches. Depending on the slop of the roof, this can be a very tight situation. If the home is balloon framed, proper blocking will need to be considered before air sealing can be done effectively. Don’t forget to put baffles for the lower attic ventilation.
It is important to determine what is exactly considered inside the home and what is outside the thermal envelope. In most homes, the rafters of an attic do not penetrate the thermal envelope and do not require air sealing at the junction and rest on the outer wall or attic pony wall. A blower door test can be an effective way to see and feel how the house is interacting with air through the assembly.
Depends if ya using cellulose insulation…if ya use a blower that’s chops it up fine almost looking like a carpet or snow then air sealing is not needed as it will cover and air seal everything it covers and touches . Waste of money to airseal unless ya using the fiberglass…I’ve run 1000 fan tests and I can tell ya the only time air sealing makes a difference is in plumbing and electrical holes around the home itself or if you roll out fiberglass…
Was a blower door used? What were the numbers?
The contractor did use a blower door for pre and post-testing, but we don’t have those numbers for this particular project.