Thanks for posting . And all the tips ( you learned from re-doing ) . All those little added things like ,,, using the slim , long wrench to just loosen the nut from INSIDE the van ,, then proceeding outside ( under ) the van to remove ,,,,,,,, those little tips are very helpful . Going to start on 2005 , Dodge SXT , 3.8L soon . So , again ,, Thanks for all the info . 👍 .
I removed the replaced the rack in my 2001 T&C and did not drop the support brace with all the bolts in it. I also disconnected the steering linkage at the roll pin for inside the car. With the driver's side outer tie rod removed the rack comes out on w passenger side. I removed the charcoal canister to get at the ps fluid lines. Not having to drop that support saves a lot if time. Good video. Happy Motoring.
I did a quick mention of that in the video. They changed the 2004 model & it's more difficult. You can possibly do it on the 2004-2007 if you remove the inner tie rod ends first. Years ago I did my 2001 like that, tried on my 05 and gave up.
@@anarky4321 On this I punched it out after removal, on my 2001 I punched it out and in at the pedals and slid it out, BUT I had also removed the inner tie rod ends because I was putting in a junkyard pull and I had removed my L&R inner and outer tie rods connected together so I wouldn't need an alignment. I don't think you can get the rack out with the inners still attached.
I had the same experience but my leaky rack was rebuilt by ac delco. I couldn't get a new rack at the time so i did a crazy thing and went to a pull a part yard, got a used one, and rebuilt it myself.😮 I also took the opportunity to replace the motor mounts (with oem) since i had better access for the rear one. All in all, took me 3 days.
Great video, I've got a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.3L that is starting to drip PS fluid down the driver's side tie rod. So I'm thinking I've got a rack replacement in my future. Your video is excellent, and funny thing is I was just looking at the price of racks on RockAuto. After looking at them more closely I decided to go with the Edelmann even before watching your video, nice to see confirmation here that I was on the right track. Got everything you recommended, including air, impact tools and sockets. Just have to check if my 18mm Gearwrench open end wrench is long enough (I also have the same Craftsman wrenches you do). Hopefully the differences between my 2004 and your van in this video is not going to be overly significant.
I am glad to hear you dodged the BBBullet by getting the Edelman! I know it's a different rack, but I don't think it's that far off under the car. There are some (town & country's?) that have active suspension or some other components tucked under there, but I haven't seen one in person.
Oh, and the 18mm needs not only the length, but the slim profile, The thickness of the craftsman is just thick enough to prevent turning the nut far enough.
if im ever doing this again im 100% not dropping that underframe - none of the bolts are captive nor are there welded nuts - you have to hold EACH SINGLE ONE above with a wrench as you loosen AND tighten....and its a LOT of bolts..... also don't assume that you'll be able to break those lines loose - on some of these they've been rusting in there for 20 years - i had to cut mine at the rack AND at the pump because it was rust-welded on - Im used to taking subfames off on cars abut its never as painful as chrysler designed it so I didn't think id end up spending hours on it
I fully expect to burn in hell for the amount of profanity I have used toward Chrysler engineers. 10mm soft steel bolts into aluminum to hold the water pump??? On my 2001 I was able to punch out the pin from inside the van and remove the rack with both inner tie rods removed without dropping the sub frame. That pin was not easy from inside the van, especially installing. It's really kind of a choose your poison situation. In this video I didn't want to remove the the preinstalled ends on the new rack. I think I mentioned it can be done, at least on the older models. It all depends on the situation.
NEVER buy a reman rack. Just replaced mine the 2nd time this time w a new one. Took me 14 hrs of hell in 100 deg heat. And just get the wheels as strait as u can bc it will need an alignment anyway. Counting turns is useless
Are you using the same slim wrench as I am and are you accessing them from under the brake pedal inside the van? Once they are broken loose I then go under the van and wiggle/turn them until they come off.
@@timsouttahereAh, clearances must be different. I did my 2001 GC before I did videos, I remember it was a nightmare. I undid the fluid lines from underneath with a stubby wrench 1/4 turn at a time and knocked the pin out from inside the van and I don't think I removed the lower cradle. 2 days of hell. I don't think there were any instruction videos back then. Congratulate yourself on accomplishing a very difficult job.
Thanks for posting . And all the tips ( you learned from re-doing ) . All those little added things like ,,, using the slim , long wrench to just loosen the nut from INSIDE the van ,, then proceeding outside ( under ) the van to remove ,,,,,,,, those little tips are very helpful . Going to start on 2005 , Dodge SXT , 3.8L soon . So , again ,, Thanks for all the info . 👍 .
Thanks for the positive feedback, I hope your repair goes smoothly.
Thanks for the detailed video. VERY HELPFUL. 😊.
This is a big job, I'm glad my video helped!
I removed the replaced the rack in my 2001 T&C and did not drop the support brace with all the bolts in it. I also disconnected the steering linkage at the roll pin for inside the car. With the driver's side outer tie rod removed the rack comes out on w passenger side. I removed the charcoal canister to get at the ps fluid lines. Not having to drop that support saves a lot if time. Good video. Happy Motoring.
I did a quick mention of that in the video. They changed the 2004 model & it's more difficult. You can possibly do it on the 2004-2007 if you remove the inner tie rod ends first. Years ago I did my 2001 like that, tried on my 05 and gave up.
did you use a pin punch and punch it out and in right at the pedals? with a hammer?
@@anarky4321 yes. Makes the rack shorter.
@@anarky4321 On this I punched it out after removal, on my 2001 I punched it out and in at the pedals and slid it out, BUT I had also removed the inner tie rod ends because I was putting in a junkyard pull and I had removed my L&R inner and outer tie rods connected together so I wouldn't need an alignment. I don't think you can get the rack out with the inners still attached.
I had the same experience but my leaky rack was rebuilt by ac delco. I couldn't get a new rack at the time so i did a crazy thing and went to a pull a part yard, got a used one, and rebuilt it myself.😮 I also took the opportunity to replace the motor mounts (with oem) since i had better access for the rear one. All in all, took me 3 days.
It's a bear of a job, and to do it on your back in your driveway is comparable to water boarding.
Great video, I've got a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.3L that is starting to drip PS fluid down the driver's side tie rod. So I'm thinking I've got a rack replacement in my future. Your video is excellent, and funny thing is I was just looking at the price of racks on RockAuto. After looking at them more closely I decided to go with the Edelmann even before watching your video, nice to see confirmation here that I was on the right track. Got everything you recommended, including air, impact tools and sockets. Just have to check if my 18mm Gearwrench open end wrench is long enough (I also have the same Craftsman wrenches you do). Hopefully the differences between my 2004 and your van in this video is not going to be overly significant.
I am glad to hear you dodged the BBBullet by getting the Edelman! I know it's a different rack, but I don't think it's that far off under the car. There are some (town & country's?) that have active suspension or some other components tucked under there, but I haven't seen one in person.
Oh, and the 18mm needs not only the length, but the slim profile, The thickness of the craftsman is just thick enough to prevent turning the nut far enough.
Thanks! Too much crap under there to deal with for an old guy-taking it to the dealer!
Been dreading it, dragged my feet for over a year, but when I started going through a quart of fluid a month I had no choice.
if im ever doing this again im 100% not dropping that underframe - none of the bolts are captive nor are there welded nuts - you have to hold EACH SINGLE ONE above with a wrench as you loosen AND tighten....and its a LOT of bolts..... also don't assume that you'll be able to break those lines loose - on some of these they've been rusting in there for 20 years - i had to cut mine at the rack AND at the pump because it was rust-welded on - Im used to taking subfames off on cars abut its never as painful as chrysler designed it so I didn't think id end up spending hours on it
I fully expect to burn in hell for the amount of profanity I have used toward Chrysler engineers. 10mm soft steel bolts into aluminum to hold the water pump??? On my 2001 I was able to punch out the pin from inside the van and remove the rack with both inner tie rods removed without dropping the sub frame. That pin was not easy from inside the van, especially installing. It's really kind of a choose your poison situation. In this video I didn't want to remove the the preinstalled ends on the new rack. I think I mentioned it can be done, at least on the older models. It all depends on the situation.
Thanks for you time and you pacience. Blessings.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
gracias por compartir ese exelente video , hare yo mismo ese trabajo en mi minivan , no tengo toda esa herramienta pero lo intentare , tanks again,,,
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Nice
👍
tnks
NEVER buy a reman rack. Just replaced mine the 2nd time this time w a new one. Took me 14 hrs of hell in 100 deg heat. And just get the wheels as strait as u can bc it will need an alignment anyway. Counting turns is useless
I can't even get the wrench on the lines. Not enough space 😮💨😮💨😮💨
Are you using the same slim wrench as I am and are you accessing them from under the brake pedal inside the van? Once they are broken loose I then go under the van and wiggle/turn them until they come off.
@@DIYBenzGarage i couldnt get it from the inside but i managed to get from the bottom. I was surprised that it wasnt that tight.
@@timsouttahereI hope you managed to get the whole job done. What is the year make and model, 4 or 6 cylinder?
@@DIYBenzGarage 2001 chrysler town and country with handicap access ramp. I'm finishing up today. The hard part is finished lol
@@timsouttahereAh, clearances must be different. I did my 2001 GC before I did videos, I remember it was a nightmare. I undid the fluid lines from underneath with a stubby wrench 1/4 turn at a time and knocked the pin out from inside the van and I don't think I removed the lower cradle. 2 days of hell. I don't think there were any instruction videos back then.
Congratulate yourself on accomplishing a very difficult job.
Nobody gonna tell him you dont gotta take all that stuff off? 😂