God bless you, for making this video, I have a Willys M38 A1 from 1961 which comes standard with the same engine as the CJ-3B the Hurricane and has the same Carter YF carburetor, like in my country Venezuela now the gasoline is very bad quality, I think it ruined my carburetor, because my Jeep constantly fails and turns the spark plugs black, I am going to buy the carburetor kit and thanks to your video I will do the corresponding maintenance, I hope I have the same luck as you and that my Jeep does not spend so much gasoline, again thank you very much and a thousand blessings. Carlos Valero, Venezuela, South America.😀
Nice video, informative. I have a 61 Willy’s CJ5 project. Trying to learn about the carb. The engine is running lean. Might need a rebuild as this thing was sitting in a barn for years
Thanks for the info. 2 points missed by everyone on the YF and The CJ-5. There are several Vented and otherwise. Many have problems with the bowl going dry. Several reasons why this happens. It isn't siphoning cause of the fuel line. But here is a common missed issue. The pump top housing has a ball bearing and seat in it. Cleaning rarly gets it clean and it doesn't close. There is a metal plug on it. Some are just a thin metal cap while others have a cap top and needle nose will remove them easily. Remove the bearing and clean the seat. It will be dirty. Do not damage it or it's done. Inspect the bearing. Once clean replace bearing and take a brass rod and tap the ball lightly into the seat with a screw driver handle. Don't over do it if you deform the seat your done. Put the plug back in. Blow through the hole and verify the valve is sealing shut. Before assembly. Before you put the top back down Fill Bowl with Thinner. Press the pump until the fuel sprays. Lifting the top jet beside the bowl there is another ball valve. Some have a counter weight on em so don't blow it out. A finger over it will do. In other words prime everything. Then note fuel level in bowl. Dry it off. Sit on a piece of paper or shop towel wait a few hours. If it is wet the valves are not sealing and bowl will bleed down. Again the bearing valves must seal. a tiny speck of dirt or rust will mess them up. And the alcohol fuel doesn't help. Note, Add a good Fuel Filter on the 70's CJ-5's. The use of the in line is fine with the fuel by-pass but add another one up stream that will filter. No one ever cleans the top pump housing valve. It isn't even mentioned in most repair or books kits? Caver Ron CJ-5.
Great video. Where did you find that particular carb kit? I tried to do the same with another kit that had a 2 piece needle valve and it seems that stupid thing is almost impossible to adjust. That Daytona valve looks like the bomb..Thanks!
OK, the original uses a spring loaded needle to prevent flooding on steep angles/slopes and rough tracks, by adding the 1/16" and using the non spring needle, it should compensate. Hills with heavy corrugations may become a problem, but possibly be OK. Thanks for the instructional.@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418
God bless you, for making this video, I have a Willys M38 A1 from 1961 which comes standard with the same engine as the CJ-3B the Hurricane and has the same Carter YF carburetor, like in my country Venezuela now the gasoline is very bad quality, I think it ruined my carburetor, because my Jeep constantly fails and turns the spark plugs black, I am going to buy the carburetor kit and thanks to your video I will do the corresponding maintenance, I hope I have the same luck as you and that my Jeep does not spend so much gasoline, again thank you very much and a thousand blessings. Carlos Valero, Venezuela, South America.😀
Changed the oil in my air cleaner and forgot the spring too...lol.
Be safe and take care.
Nice video, informative. I have a 61 Willy’s CJ5 project. Trying to learn about the carb. The engine is running lean. Might need a rebuild as this thing was sitting in a barn for years
Thanks for the info.
2 points missed by everyone on the YF and The CJ-5. There are several Vented and otherwise.
Many have problems with the bowl going dry. Several reasons why this happens. It isn't siphoning cause of the fuel line. But here is a common missed issue.
The pump top housing has a ball bearing and seat in it. Cleaning rarly gets it clean and it doesn't close. There is a metal plug on it. Some are just a thin metal cap while others have a cap top and needle nose will remove them easily. Remove the bearing and clean the seat. It will be dirty. Do not damage it or it's done. Inspect the bearing. Once clean replace bearing and take a brass rod and tap the ball lightly into the seat with a screw driver handle. Don't over do it if you deform the seat your done. Put the plug back in. Blow through the hole and verify the valve is sealing shut.
Before assembly. Before you put the top back down Fill Bowl with Thinner. Press the pump until the fuel sprays. Lifting the top jet beside the bowl there is another ball valve. Some have a counter weight on em so don't blow it out. A finger over it will do. In other words prime everything. Then note fuel level in bowl. Dry it off. Sit on a piece of paper or shop towel wait a few hours. If it is wet the valves are not sealing and bowl will bleed down. Again the bearing valves must seal. a tiny speck of dirt or rust will mess them up. And the alcohol fuel doesn't help. Note, Add a good Fuel Filter on the 70's CJ-5's. The use of the in line is fine with the fuel by-pass but add another one up stream that will filter. No one ever cleans the top pump housing valve. It isn't even mentioned in most repair or books kits?
Caver Ron CJ-5.
Thanks, spread the knowledge!
Great video and series!!!!
Thanks for watching! It’s been a fun jeep
Sounds good, now. Ready for action!👍
Cool! 👍
Done more YF carbs then I care to remember they were around forever
Where is the supply passage for the accelerator pump?Can't find it on my Willys carb. Thanks
Great video. Where did you find that particular carb kit? I tried to do the same with another kit that had a 2 piece needle valve and it seems that stupid thing is almost impossible to adjust. That Daytona valve looks like the bomb..Thanks!
I don’t remember now, something like a Joe’s carburetors… I’ll try to find it.
Helpful video thenks! I have the same carb on my 67 cj5, its yf 4002s... Where can i find a rebuild kit?
Mikes carburetor was one place. There is a Jeep shop or vintage Jeep shop he sells some good stuff also
@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418 found him thanks...😁
I know it's a different N&S, but not sure why you didn't set the float at 5/16"??
I’m sorry I don’t recall why the instructions said to add a 16th” but I did it the way it said and haven’t had any issues with the carb.
OK, the original uses a spring loaded needle to prevent flooding on steep angles/slopes and rough tracks, by adding the 1/16" and using the non spring needle, it should compensate. Hills with heavy corrugations may become a problem, but possibly be OK. Thanks for the instructional.@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418
Never move the accelerator pump dry!!!!
Ed Gorman -good advice, thanks
If you need any carb info which I doubt just shoot me a text.