I have a question. I had gotten a reply that I thought it was from you. It said congratulations that I won a tee shirt and stickers . Is that from you or a scam? They wanted me to pay shipping and needed my information and payment information . The shipping was $ 50.00
I’ve got 3 shapers for making my cabinet doors 1 for profile, 1 for cope and one setup for a raised panel. I don’t do it professionally anymore, but it is still so nice going to the shop not having to mess with any setup.
Friend of mine lost fingers when he slipped on a router table working confidently along. The piece torque on him and twisted in just at the wrong moment. He is an experienced machinist too. You get 10. Count em. Please use push blocks ( it also would be faster). I know you know this but please.
and hearing protection. You're an amazing craftsman, been watching your channel for a few years..you have many more years to go, don't lose your digits or eyes or ears. Routers are one of the worst because they have higher frequency noise.
Agreed, you’re also trusting that the wood you’re routing doesn’t have some rot/split/weakness in it. If it breaks while your hand is pushing towards the spinning bit that’s bad news. Using featherboards provides more consistent pressure and you can place them so that it keeps your hands away from the bit.
@@j.paulparis2510 noticed he moved his eye pro higher on his head before the first pass then they end up handing from his collar. Not super effective in those positions.
As a master carpenter I fully agree. Also letting your blade get up to full speed and maintaining that speed throughout the whole cute with the sacrifice board works everytime. Just make sure your sacrifice is straight and 90 but also doesn’t touch both sides of the fence. Only keep it on the left or right side of the blade.
Yes, this was the only way to avoid tearout when I was milling cedar. I can go slow with most hardwoods and be fine, but I always have that sacrificial board just in case. You can hear it when it's going to tearout
In a old fine woodworking magazine a cabinet guy had four routers in one table. Imagine a 3-ft square table with a router on each side the fences of the four routers look just like a box on top of the table all the ejected dust would be vacuumed from that centered box. It was quite a slick setup.
Been doing carpentry and cabinet work for 45 plus years and I have been watching this young man for a few years here and there, and I just wanted to say that he is the real deal, he really cares about the finished product of anything that he does.
You could easily do this with one router table. If you planed this all out or if you made setup blocks for each stage so this is easily repeatable in the future without a lot of setup. We create setup blocks everytime we do something we haven't done before and save them so that we repeat any setup super quick.
Yeah but honestly for the price, it’s just a no brainer versus your time And if you build a few decent ledger racks in the back of the shop you can put them away when your done with this project
Good to see you are taking your game up the curve! Three items for your consideration: 1) put a straight piece of scrape backer screwed to your t-bar miter gauge and no more tear out! 2) do use infeed and out feed feather boards on the fence as it will keep your materials tight to the table. 3) if you start doing raised panel work - or any other larger work piece - figure out a larger table surface, maybe it's hinged on an existing table. Keep up the good work and keep pursuing your knowledge of The Orders and Classical design/architecture. You have all of the technical skill to do excellent work. As you pursue your classical education, your work will go to a level you likely never expected. I look forward to your success!
Maybe someone else has said this, but you need double top mounted feather boards on the profiling table to keep consistent downward force on your workpiece. For consistency of your profiles, that downward force is essential.
What an awesome idea. I’m an old cabinet maker and we had the grizzly 3 head shaper setup for raised panel doors. Get these tables on sale and you can have a sweet production setup. Just happened upon your channel and I’m about to hit the subscribe button. Something about you I like. Your so easy to listen too and explain well
Really like your videos. I have invested in multiple routers to build cabinet doors but I’ve taken a little different tack. I use router table inserts with the fence attached to the insert. I find it saves lots of space. Just pop in the router/fence combo, hook up power and dust collection, then router away. Thanks again!!
If you are planing to put a window in that back wall of your garage hence the cut out, make sure to build a temp wall on the inside of garage two to four feet away from window so you have room to work and support the roof while you install
Ditto with dedicated tables for each profile. For dovetailing on a Leigh jig, I have two routers. One for straight bit, the other router for dovetail bit. Set them up perfectly for repeatable cuts.
Professional AC guy here. You should have cut your AC lines to fit and re-flared them. If not, you don’t want to leave the excess roll in a vertical position because it creates an oil trap. They recommend keeping them horizontal for proper oil return. That’s why you cut to fit so you don’t have this problem.
I had mine installed like that, but unless your a pro with your own tools than you have to hire a pro with tools lol I got a 12,000 Delta and it's some of the best money I've ever spent.
To prevent tear- out I start at the end that tears out and go in reverse for just a little. Usually pull the wood in reverse for half the bit profile. Go slow and then push back and start your piece as normal, when you get to the end, then now there is nothing to tear-out. Very easy and a never fail method.
Just clamp a sacrificial piece to the end. Never go backwards on a rotating cutter. Routers are meant to go in one direction that pulls the cutter to the work.
Or just slow WAYYYY down at the ends…for materials that are notorious for tear-out, a sacrificial piece butted up against the work piece is safer than running anything backwards
You mentioned that the "hardest part of installing your ductless split AC system was keeping the coolant lines from kinking". That's a good reason to purchase the Mrcool mini-splits: each of the lines come pre-setup with bending springs already there, so that nearly eliminates any possibility for kinking.
You can use a combo square or some other depth guage that has a locking screw, to set your depth on your bits just set the guage up on your current bit and lock it then change your bit and set the height back to your guage, and its back the same quick and sleezey.
Nice shop. Good video on how you handle your production parts. On the mini split drain, drill and tap a hole in the plumbing cleanout cap for a 90 degree fitting and attach the drain line. Drainage mess solved. On the side with the climbing ivy, you might leave the style of door system with the same cut up (3w2h). Things seem to look better in three's. Might consider building a oak multi slide (XXO OR XXX) with a transom above. Maybe utilize awning windows above (top hinge open out). When building with wood, sometimes the sightline can get a little wide. But it would be functional and a fun project. In my own shops, I've always been carful about not having too many doors because of space utilization around an operable door. With a multi-slide door with a operables above this allows you to set furniture in front of it and still have ventilation above (plus you'll have the other slider close to it). Anyhow it sound like you have some fun projects ahead of you. Cheers
Safety, Safety, Safety! I know you're a pro, but use featherboards and pushsticks, and reorient your router tables so that you're not reaching over the bits and off balance.
Safety, ear protection check, eye protection nope, push stick nope. If a person can hear they can still do this kind of work, but if they can’t see well, no more wood working. One can even lose a finger or two, but eventually one will run out of fingers too. Enjoy the hobby but safety is everything.
Narex chisels are great. Get a decent diamond stone/plate and flatten the bottom 1/2" to 1". Also, get some feather boards for those router tables. It will make feeding much easier and allow you to keep your hands further from the bit.
Glass in a door or window within 18" of the floor should be tempered (code requirement). It might be worthwhile to have double pane glass made for the door. A glass fabricator can handle making this with antique glass incapsulated in an insulated and tempered envelope. Your rabbet for the glass may have to be cut a little larger.
Hey Richard, the hats look great but they're already SOLD OUT. I picked up the new shirt and a few stickers. These will go good with my other Finish Carpentry "swag." I think my favorite was the Dewaukita. Edit: got an email last night that they’re now available. I ordered one. 😎
I too gave up on my lock-miter bit in the router table. Terribly hard to adjust. However, I should have bought the jig for that purpose from Rockler: Router Bit Set-Up Jigs for 22627 45° Lock Miter Bits. They have other models.
Nice stuff...I especially like the T-shirt! I have a different setup for production of window and sash parts, these were used to repair/make from scratch 34 double-hung sash for a barn, from an original sample: Two Craftsman 10 inch table saws of 1950s and 1960s vintage, bolted together side-by-side. Each has a home-made Biesemeyer fence, adjustable by thousandths of an inch. One set up with a fine tooth rip blade, the other with a molding head with Craftsman/Delta cutters. A 1950s vintage Craftsman shaper, and 37 or so cutters for it (all 1/2 inch bore tooling), among them two Craftsman/Delta molding head cutters. Two Router tables, a 1990s vintage Craftsman with a Craftsman router, the other a home-made table with a 1970s vintage Rockwell router. A Rockwell radial arm saw, 1980s vintage. A late 1950s vintage Delta 14 inch band saw. A 1950s Homecraft/Sears vintage scroll saw. This way I can rip, first mold, second mold, third mold, and that's the basic setup. Then once I have all the pieces molded, I can change the heads as needed for the meeting joints etc. MY COSTS: The two table saws, with wings, from a scrap metal heap: $40. The original Craftsman 3/4 and 1 HP motors, from a scrap pile and tested: $20 Vee belts and pulleys, found in scrap dumpsters etc. $0.00 The fences, pulled from a scrap metals bin (all extruded aluminum): $20. Clamps for the fences: $18 from Rockler. Misc bolts on hand...free. The radial arm: picked up after being tossed off a pickup truck. Virtually new. $0.00...timing is everything! The band saw...ditto. Tossing it broke the table trunnions, so about $40 for new ones, new tires ($30), new Cool Blox guides ($14), new upper wheel spring ($9), new guide bearing ($8). Scroll saw $5 yard sale, I had a spare motor for it. The shaper, bought at a field auction (literally in a field): $35. All shaper cutters (four are carbide) in the next field auction lot: $35. Three molding heads and many, many cutters I had on hand acquired over the years...I'd guess $30? The Craftsman router and table, given to me by a friend. $0.00 The Rockwell router, $35 IIRC. Router table from scraps of MDO, laminate etc...$10 for materials? So about...$275-$300? All acquired over the course of some 30 years.
I love the idea of multiple tables. I do similar thing with bench drill presses, leave setup for hinge drilling etc. You are so right about the lock mitre bits. I got mine about 20 years ago and only successfully used it once.
Love your channel and think your are an excellent finish carpenter. That being said ,safety working in your shop needs to improve before you seriously hurt yourself. I got chills watching you run your hands right past the router bits on your router table. You may feel comfortable doing it that way and you may think you have a firm grip on the work piece-but trust me - that router is much stronger then you are and has no conscience.
A little tip when making doors. Use glue up blanks for door rails and stiles. A 1x10 ripped in half and glued together with opposing grain will result in a 4.5” x 1.5” blank. Good for 1.5” interior doors stiles Or two 5/4 x6 glued together for exterior doors. It will be much more stable and less likely to warp than a solid piece of wood. You are putting so much time into these custom doors it would be a shame if they warped after installed.
Dude, don’t coil the remaining hoses for the mini split vertical, you need to lay them flat/horizontal. They have an oil in them that starts to starve the system if you have them vertical.
You remind me of me. I am a cabinetmaker in Lakewood (Cleveland) Ohio. I am now 63 years old. I had four daughters. I absolutely love what you are doing. Enjoy your children while they are little. You will be my age in a blink of an eye. Now I have to go, taking the grandkids to a haunted house tonight. 😊
Roy Underhill of the Woodwrights Shop does a great video on Door Construction with muntins demonstrating how to make these. I think it's listed under season 28 making a corner cabinet, well worth looking at.
Eye protection .. as well as some kind of push stick .. your fingers are everything brother don't skip the tips on a router bit a piece of wood that thin can shatter in the middle or on the off cut tear out !!
Eye and hearing protection ? Nice set up. Well planned and executed. Very nice instructive video ! I didn’t mention feather boards, hold downs, push devices because others ahead of me did. When you get old like me you’ll be thankful you used personal protective devices. Your work is good . Nice shop space utilization.
I wish I had worn hearing protection when I was younger. Now there are so many unnecessary arguments with the spouse because I can't hear as well, plus watching captions on TV sucks.
Grew up as a framer, switched trades but I got back into it with woodworking and I’ll say my experience with Narex chisels hasn’t let me down. A good choice all around.
I have a standard single car garage I made into a workshop. I put an 18,000 BTU mini split in that. I can keep the main door open and it still cools. I'm in So. Fl. so we get pretty hot down here too. I usually don't keep the main door open when the A/C is on but just pointing out how well these work. Being I can't put a car in there if I have to work on a car we also have a double car garage. I wonder if I put it in the wrong garage. :)
I have that router table and shortly after buying it the lament on the guards started to peel up preventing smooth travel across the table and messing up my material. If you start to see the slightest problem with those guide guards I would make your own out of solid wood to replace them. Outside of that it’s a good table. Love the shirt.
I bought one of these and it lasted a year. Almost all of the tool is particle board so if you live in a humid area as I do good luck. It also was difficult to keep the working surfaces aligned and level, screws striped out. I tossed it.
I don't have any personal experience with this, but I saw comments by other HVAC people about looping the coils vertically like that causes the oil to get stuck in the loops and can starve the compressor causing it to fail. They said to bend them into horizontal loops that drain out.
@@theokbaxter Even worse, as the OP noted, changing setups on hobby tables is painful, while one can go this route, it still doesn’t solve the problem of setup. It also has the potential of sending novices down a less then optimal path. These router tables are decent for doing round overs, etc. I have one with a first rate adjustable lift just for that reason, as well as a stand alone shaper for profile work. On a side note I commented on this as UA-cam served it up to me.
A router table is the best tool to DIY since it cuts in a circular motion tangential to the workpiece it doesn't matter how poorly your fence is set up as long as it's perpendicular to the table it will always be tangential. Because its always tangential you can set up the fence to pivot instead of moving in and out giving you extreme precision if your fence is 4.5 feet long and more ergonomic by having the fence run diagonally to match my 4 foot by 2 foot router table with the dust extraction going out under the table between the table top and router, not thru the router, increasing router cooling too.
Richard, very sweet setup. And the SCM minimax lab 300p is genuinely nice. Now I know everyone is giving you their two cents on using the router tables, so I'll add mine. You are making very heavy cuts on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd routers, which should be done with two shallower cuts. Your bits won't last long and it's putting a load on the routers as well. My biggest question is why you aren't taking advantage of the shaper/moulder on the minimax and cut the full profile on one side and then the other. It would be "exactly" what the shaper was made for, and it would do it faster and in less steps, and a full depth pass is fine on the shaper. Maybe I'm missing something, If so fill me in, please. All the Best, Chuck
I can’t comment on the minimal but I can endorse your comments on the need to take several shallow cuts. As you say, it’s good for the bits amd the router motor but it’s also good for finish quality. Unless the grain is tight and runs straight then taking a large amount off in one step risks breakout of the timber and ruining your piece. Constant pressure is another must. On short runs I overload with feather boards; on larger runs I use my power drive (not quick to set up right but it pays back that time on longer runs) Third element for me is fence alignment. If you are taking material off the width of the piece then the outfeed side of the fence will not be supporting the material and there is the probability of inconsistent results. My Incra router table allows for each side of the fence (infeed and outfeed) to be adjusted separately. If another router table hasn’t got this feature, you will need to use shims on the outfeed. The offset of fence or shim should be equal to the amount of the width of the timber you are removing. So, for example, I want to put a bead on a thin wide piece of material; I know that, to get a very clear rounded bead, I’m going to have to take maybe 1mm from the width of the material. So, I either need to bring forward the outfeed fence by 1mm or attach a thin long piece of 1mm thick to the outfeed fence (I would use double sided tape). If your desired shape means taking away a lot of material (for instance an accurate 45 degree cut through the centre of piece of 30mm square) then it’s best to use the table saw or band saw to get within 1mm or so of the finish dimension. You should also do this with multiple cuts on the table saw if you are want something like a dish shape. I hope I’ve explained it and hope it helps someone. In my 45 years of woodworking, I’ve made every mistake possible, multiple times; I’ve learnt more swear words than there are in a dictionary and wasted enough timber to keep a timber mill very busy.
@@theofarmmanager267 I'm right behind you in years of experience my friend, and I agree with your comments. I think Richard came up with an ingenuous idea for production work, and it has potential, but as you and I can see there are some pit falls to his method as he is implementing it. I don't mean or want to knock him just for the sake of doing so, but I do want to share my experiences with routing so he can avoid what took me years to learn. As far as the Moulder goes, it is nothing more than an industrial sized router table. It is designed to do jobs just like this in one, in one pass. That is why I'm not sure why Richard isn't using it, it would have been a lot cheaper as well. He could have cut the sides on the moulder and set up a single router table for the initial end cut. Anyway, take care and all the best, Chuck.
If you haven't bought your extra line set cover yet, I had to also buy a second set to finish covering my line set so I have part of a set left over that I want to sell for about half the cost of a new set if you are interested. What is left in the second set is one elbow, a full 4' cover, a half 2' cover, elbow, head piece and tail piece. Mine is a Mr. Cool line set cover.
you did a great job on the mini spilt but just cut the drain line. they make the lines long IF you need it. So cut it long enough to drain the water away from the house.
Nothing wrong with those Narex chisels. I have a set myself. No need for the whole back to be dead flat so long as you get contact along the cutting edge when lapping the back, which it appears you do.
Narex are a decent chisel, honestly a cheap chisel can perform as well as an expensive chisel it's just more time invested to get a cheap chisel dialed in. Polish the back of those chisels out; use a piece of glass (True flatness) with ever finer sand paper. Start around 80 grit and work your way up to 1000 grit. You'll get a mirror finish on the chisel and although it's a lot of work, you will never have to do it again. You will impress yourself at how quickly you can achieve amazing razor thin shavings from the wood with a properly prepped chisel. You will be able to see through the wood shavings they are so thin.
Hello again Bro. I suggest a sacrificial board behind your good board when routeing if you dont want to get blow-out. I make one that acts almost like a push stick, and I use it again and again with the same profile.
Hello , the glass is the way they used to make it , I believe there is a natural wave and air bubbles in the glass . Air pump or heat pump as they call it in new zealand is the way to go . Your work is second to none , more power to you 👍
Beautiful work! But have you thought about energy efficiency of the hand made windows ？ single pane is a no no to me for windows or exterior doors. Maybe have a glass company make some double pane glass ?
Excellent video! I’m glad to see that you are expanding your skillset the right way; research the techniques, tools, test pieces, etc. I can see your business expanding in the future. As for the work on your house…you got that! Thanks for taking us along on the ride.
Why isn't there a profile on the other stile to receive the coped end of the muntin bar. You're using a glass door rail and stile set up, right? Freud makes shaper cutters especially for this application, which may have been done best on your shaper instead of 4 router tables. TIP, when having to change out router bits or shaper cutters, zero out the height of the tool with a dial indicator and use that zero height when re-installing the tool.
For the cost of 4 Bosch router tables, 4 routers, 4 support tables, DC collector fittings and bits you could have just gotten one 3 sided shaper. The shaper handles production work much better than routers because of larger horsepower motors and larger spindle sizes. Bonus: one floor standing multi-head shaper takes up far less real estate and connects directly into the DC. I use the Bosch table with my Porter Cable router and indeed it is a chore to swap out bits between rails, stiles, dovetails, copes and beveling. However I only make a few cabinets with doors and drawers. Any more volume and I will opt for a shaper.
Great set up. Set it & forget it. The Bosch router tables are so reasonable, that they pay for themselves after a few jobs. I know what you mean about cutting lock rabbets w/ a router table. I prefer to just use the table saw & off cuts as spacers to limit fence adjustments. Much less stress & better results using the table saw.
Another thing you can do with your rabbeting bit is find some material (or cut some) that’s half the thickness of the width of rabbet and put that behind your fence then run your material through which will remove half. Then take the shims out and run material through again to your final dimension. That way you can remove it in 2 passes without thought the bit height or your fence. You can also use double sided sticky tape and attach the shims to the front but sometimes that’s hard to get off and you might move your fence trying to take it off. Also I got an email from (I think is you) saying I was selected and asking me to text a number. Is this legit
@Finish Carpentry TV Rich, PLEASE don’t forget to do yearly maintenance on your mini split, either yourself, or from an HVAC Co. as will extend the life of the unit, worth it, and I suggest pick a date that won’t forget, like around a holiday or birthday (same for changing filters in your urbane etc….). Congrats and take care ✌🏻
I do stained glass. I’ve done refinishing, refurbishing and furniture repairs. I have used German antique glass in a friends grandmothers China closet. It is gorgeous and the project came out great. I was dismayed that you would use anything other than tempered glass for any doorway. At all. Ever.
Back in the late 70's, I worked at a cabinet shop and went out and bought 10 craftsman routers and made a removable top table with a router attached with different table functions and just moved them in and out as needed with workstations set up. I made them with a work stock in and __!^^^!__ a work stock out as I machined the parts (for drawers). It was crazy efficient for a low cost of the routers.
For what it's worth coming from an hvac guy those extra loops on your refrigerant lines can cause an oil trap and eventually burn up your compressor. Great video on the door.
that is one of the best set ups for doors if you are not a big industrial shop. you are right about setting bits.i used to rout oak for trim packages for restaurants and i had talked the owner into 3 routers and they thought it was a wast of money Intel they seen me save about 2 hours in set up time. great set up. have you used any other tables ?i am looking to get a router table and they look like a great table.
You don't need to take the scallop out the back of the chisels it's there on purpose look up Japanese chisels, just polish the back leave the scallops in
Narex really is not that bad. Just get a 2' x 1' sheet of plate glass for all the grits you want to go through and glue some sheets to it. Makes flattening and sharpening much easier than stones. I keep a sharp set for detail work in the van at all times and they have saved my bacon instead of trying to get a framing beater chisel to do precision work with all the dings and chips in it.
Have not seen any of your vidios for about 2 years because of illness, I have watched your career evolve. I am retiring from a 41year career in carpentry and I have done very well financially, keep up the good work and you will retire a very happy man
Love watching your growth!!! I do a fair amount of chisel work, and sort of a chisel junkie, and to this day my Narex have been a super good choice as they hold an edge well and won't break the bank BUT they're also not cheapos... great choice. I evolved into double bevels for letter carving later on and the Pfiel are great, but my traditional Narex are a staple. Good choice. The notion of multiple router tables is spot on also in your situation. Changing bits SUCKS... Even my Woodpecker table doesn't make it easy... GREAT choice having multiple for your needs!!!
As an old guy that grew up in a cabinet shop, I'd have probably bought a four head shaper table. Not sure how the math would work on that. Didn't have cheap router tables, in my day. You had to build them and it was a pain ! If you screw a piece of hardwood to your sliding T, you'll do away with the tear out on your coping bit..
If you put a sacrificial block in front of the pc you are routing then u won't have to worry about the tear out occurring on the finished pc but instead it will tear out the sacrificial block
Brother, Please, Please, Please get some push sticks or Gripprs for your router tables. Your hands are part of your livelyhood and you need to protect those fingers bro. Only takes a fraction of a second to get bit. Love the channel though.
you should have trimmed the extra length of line set down to exact fit, you don't want loops in the line set like that. my friend got 11 months out of his Mr. Cool and they left him high and dry on warranty. I wish you good luck and hopefully you don't have the problems his did.
Mount a backer board on your miter that will support your work when you come through the pass & it will stop that tear out at 4:46. Like cut a 1x2 hardwood that screws to the miter and butts up to the fence Do this on all the profiles and you will have all clean cut's as long as making the same cut. Very nice little shop. I my self am in a 1 car garage and have to use Shopsmith tools just to save the room. The trick to a miter lock bit it to take as long as you need to make a perfect cut on a short board the exact thickness you need. Then drill a hole in it and paint it bright yellow or orange and hang it on the wall or the inside the router cabinet doors. I always paint little patterns like that so I am not going to accidently toss them out or use them as scrap latter. I like the looks of the domino but to me it is way over priced to do what a drill bit and large dowel rod can do. Horizontal boring that the Shopsmith can do really comes in handy for that or even, drilling actually square mortis holes with it and then cutting tenons. But I am in love with your sliding Man saw. OMG that is nice Saw. I subscribe slow lets see how things are going 1 year later from this Video.
If you keep at it long enough, then you'll ditch the routers and your shop will have shapers, powerfeeders, and large diameter matched set cope and stick cutters.
Something about those router tables in the center bothers me. I figure it's for space savings but I would rather have them all facing out. Each facing north south east and west back to back. Would take up more room but seems safer with a easier work flow.
very nice. ! you could daisy chain planners too:) have one planner feed the next planner, and set that up to hit the same board 3 or 4 times and take it down a quarter of an inch every time you send it through.
Thanks for watching guys! Here is the link if you want to grab some new merch! www.bunkerbranding.com/pages/finish-carpentry-tv
I appreciate it!
Yay for international shipping. I'm in the middle of a move but once I'm settled I will get a shirt and some stickers.
You officially joined the Demolitia? Nice merch!
What routers are you using in the router tables?
Love the shirt but like to add more guns to it. 😂. Gotta check it out. Thanks
I have a question. I had gotten a reply that I thought it was from you. It said congratulations that I won a tee shirt and stickers . Is that from you or a scam? They wanted me to pay shipping and needed my information and payment information . The shipping was $ 50.00
I’ve got 3 shapers for making my cabinet doors 1 for profile, 1 for cope and one setup for a raised panel. I don’t do it professionally anymore, but it is still so nice going to the shop not having to mess with any setup.
Friend of mine lost fingers when he slipped on a router table working confidently along. The piece torque on him and twisted in just at the wrong moment. He is an experienced machinist too. You get 10. Count em. Please use push blocks ( it also would be faster). I know you know this but please.
And eye protection.
and hearing protection. You're an amazing craftsman, been watching your channel for a few years..you have many more years to go, don't lose your digits or eyes or ears. Routers are one of the worst because they have higher frequency noise.
You need a feed system so the routers can work like a thicknesser.
Agreed, you’re also trusting that the wood you’re routing doesn’t have some rot/split/weakness in it. If it breaks while your hand is pushing towards the spinning bit that’s bad news. Using featherboards provides more consistent pressure and you can place them so that it keeps your hands away from the bit.
@@j.paulparis2510 noticed he moved his eye pro higher on his head before the first pass then they end up handing from his collar. Not super effective in those positions.
you can minimize the tear out with a sacrificial junk board behind your workpiece.
As a master carpenter I fully agree. Also letting your blade get up to full speed and maintaining that speed throughout the whole cute with the sacrifice board works everytime. Just make sure your sacrifice is straight and 90 but also doesn’t touch both sides of the fence. Only keep it on the left or right side of the blade.
@@daniellemiddleton2488 as a master UA-cam commenter, get over yourself and please consider touching my wood.
Yes, this was the only way to avoid tearout when I was milling cedar. I can go slow with most hardwoods and be fine, but I always have that sacrificial board just in case. You can hear it when it's going to tearout
Feather boards for pressure against fence and against the table will help prevent loss of fingers. Save them digits.
Yes. That fourth pass had me cringing. I am definitely not the safety police but that was scary.
yeah that fourth pass was like woah....
Tools do not make a carpenter. Accident waiting to happen.
In a old fine woodworking magazine a cabinet guy had four routers in one table. Imagine a 3-ft square table with a router on each side the fences of the four routers look just like a box on top of the table all the ejected dust would be vacuumed from that centered box. It was quite a slick setup.
Grizzly makes or made a three spindle shaper, individual motors.
Been doing carpentry and cabinet work for 45 plus years and I have been watching this young man for a few years here and there, and I just wanted to say that he is the real deal, he really cares about the finished product of anything that he does.
You could easily do this with one router table. If you planed this all out or if you made setup blocks for each stage so this is easily repeatable in the future without a lot of setup. We create setup blocks everytime we do something we haven't done before and save them so that we repeat any setup super quick.
Yeah but honestly for the price, it’s just a no brainer versus your time
And if you build a few decent ledger racks in the back of the shop you can put them away when your done with this project
Good to see you are taking your game up the curve! Three items for your consideration: 1) put a straight piece of scrape backer screwed to your t-bar miter gauge and no more tear out! 2) do use infeed and out feed feather boards on the fence as it will keep your materials tight to the table. 3) if you start doing raised panel work - or any other larger work piece - figure out a larger table surface, maybe it's hinged on an existing table.
Keep up the good work and keep pursuing your knowledge of The Orders and Classical design/architecture. You have all of the technical skill to do excellent work. As you pursue your classical education, your work will go to a level you likely never expected. I look forward to your success!
Maybe someone else has said this, but you need double top mounted feather boards on the profiling table to keep consistent downward force on your workpiece. For consistency of your profiles, that downward force is essential.
And also for safety reasons!
This! And just having them, top and bottom ones, the versatility and ease of doing repetitive pieces, etc. is soooo convenient.
These downward feather boards become a pain in the ass when you use hardwood.
Or a power feeder.
You're talking to someone who bought 4 routers and tables because he can't change bits and set their height. It's "worse than torture" lol
What an awesome idea. I’m an old cabinet maker and we had the grizzly 3 head shaper setup for raised panel doors. Get these tables on sale and you can have a sweet production setup. Just happened upon your channel and I’m about to hit the subscribe button. Something about you I like. Your so easy to listen too and explain well
Scam number lol
@@myopinion6328 I had the same thing pop up.
Me too. I even called him on being a scam.
@@murph3194 it's a bot so there isn't a person to respond to you
Really like your videos. I have invested in multiple routers to build cabinet doors but I’ve taken a little different tack. I use router table inserts with the fence attached to the insert. I find it saves lots of space. Just pop in the router/fence combo, hook up power and dust collection, then router away. Thanks again!!
That's really smart!
If you are planing to put a window in that back wall of your garage hence the cut out, make sure to build a temp wall on the inside of garage two to four feet away from window so you have room to work and support the roof while you install
Ditto with dedicated tables for each profile. For dovetailing on a Leigh jig, I have two routers. One for straight bit, the other router for dovetail bit. Set them up perfectly for repeatable cuts.
Professional AC guy here. You should have cut your AC lines to fit and re-flared them. If not, you don’t want to leave the excess roll in a vertical position because it creates an oil trap. They recommend keeping them horizontal for proper oil return. That’s why you cut to fit so you don’t have this problem.
I had mine installed like that, but unless your a pro with your own tools than you have to hire a pro with tools lol I got a 12,000 Delta and it's some of the best money I've ever spent.
To prevent tear- out I start at the end that tears out and go in reverse for just a little. Usually pull the wood in reverse for half the bit profile. Go slow and then push back and start your piece as normal, when you get to the end, then now there is nothing to tear-out. Very easy and a never fail method.
Outstanding!!! I will never forget this practice! Professional results guaranteed like the way James Rock does his work!
Much safer to have a scrap piece behind the job, running a piece the wrong way even half a profile can snatch/kick back in a blink of lost finger
Just clamp a sacrificial piece to the end. Never go backwards on a rotating cutter. Routers are meant to go in one direction that pulls the cutter to the work.
Like others have said, use a backer as a push block. You don't even need to keep making a new block. It just needs to be square to the fence.
Or just slow WAYYYY down at the ends…for materials that are notorious for tear-out, a sacrificial piece butted up against the work piece is safer than running anything backwards
using anti-kickback boards on the top of your work and on the side of your work save those fingers and also from flying boards
I second his thoughts. One slip up on one of those router tables and you’ll have a lifetime of asking yourself why didn’t I do it a safer way.
Hearing protection but no eye protection? Every had wood chips fly into your eye? It hurts!
Is it worth all the work and cost?
Adding removable fence shims will allow you to make multiple lighter passes with the removed shims being your final dimension.
Scam number..not Richard lol
Only cost 50 dollars for the scam and a heart lol
@@myopinion6328 You mean I'm not getting an all inclusive cruise to Alaska?.. Sharing my SSN was ok, right?
@@jameshicks101 What do you honestly think?
You mentioned that the "hardest part of installing your ductless split AC system was keeping the coolant lines from kinking". That's a good reason to purchase the Mrcool mini-splits: each of the lines come pre-setup with bending springs already there, so that nearly eliminates any possibility for kinking.
You can use a combo square or some other depth guage that has a locking screw, to set your depth on your bits just set the guage up on your current bit and lock it then change your bit and set the height back to your guage, and its back the same quick and sleezey.
Yeah. Cheaper to learn how to use the router than buying 4 $150 + $100 Bosch router lol
Nice shop. Good video on how you handle your production parts. On the mini split drain, drill and tap a hole in the plumbing cleanout cap for a 90 degree fitting and attach the drain line. Drainage mess solved. On the side with the climbing ivy, you might leave the style of door system with the same cut up (3w2h). Things seem to look better in three's. Might consider building a oak multi slide (XXO OR XXX) with a transom above. Maybe utilize awning windows above (top hinge open out). When building with wood, sometimes the sightline can get a little wide. But it would be functional and a fun project. In my own shops, I've always been carful about not having too many doors because of space utilization around an operable door. With a multi-slide door with a operables above this allows you to set furniture in front of it and still have ventilation above (plus you'll have the other slider close to it). Anyhow it sound like you have some fun projects ahead of you. Cheers
Router tables are great if you are making one door but a shaper with a set of Freeborn cutters would be a better investment.
To prevent tear out you can use a piece of scrap wood behind your piece as a backer board and run them through together
Safety, Safety, Safety! I know you're a pro, but use featherboards and pushsticks, and reorient your router tables so that you're not reaching over the bits and off balance.
I agree. Router tables have more accidents than table saws I think.
...and safety classes with hearing protection ALL the time.
if you ever seen a router injury it's devastating. Respect the power of the tool!!! no job is Wirth it
After wasting all that money, he Ends up with an unsafe setup. And all of that coz he cannot figure out how to batch and make his cuts repeatable.
Safety, ear protection check, eye protection nope, push stick nope.
If a person can hear they can still do this kind of work, but if they can’t see well, no more wood working.
One can even lose a finger or two, but eventually one will run out of fingers too.
Enjoy the hobby but safety is everything.
Narex chisels are great. Get a decent diamond stone/plate and flatten the bottom 1/2" to 1". Also, get some feather boards for those router tables. It will make feeding much easier and allow you to keep your hands further from the bit.
Glass in a door or window within 18" of the floor should be tempered (code requirement). It might be worthwhile to have double pane glass made for the door. A glass fabricator can handle making this with antique glass incapsulated in an insulated and tempered envelope. Your rabbet for the glass may have to be cut a little larger.
Any glass in a door or within 36” of a door needs to be tempered.
Hey Richard, the hats look great but they're already SOLD OUT. I picked up the new shirt and a few stickers. These will go good with my other Finish Carpentry "swag." I think my favorite was the Dewaukita.
Edit: got an email last night that they’re now available. I ordered one. 😎
The hats are back in stock. Just purchased one
I too gave up on my lock-miter bit in the router table. Terribly hard to adjust. However, I should have bought the jig for that purpose from Rockler: Router Bit Set-Up Jigs for 22627 45° Lock Miter Bits. They have other models.
If you want to avoid tearing out use a sacrificial board behind your work piece as you run it through the router table.
Nice stuff...I especially like the T-shirt!
I have a different setup for production of window and sash parts, these were used to repair/make from scratch 34 double-hung sash for a barn, from an original sample:
Two Craftsman 10 inch table saws of 1950s and 1960s vintage, bolted together side-by-side. Each has a home-made Biesemeyer fence, adjustable by thousandths of an inch.
One set up with a fine tooth rip blade, the other with a molding head with Craftsman/Delta cutters.
A 1950s vintage Craftsman shaper, and 37 or so cutters for it (all 1/2 inch bore tooling), among them two Craftsman/Delta molding head cutters.
Two Router tables, a 1990s vintage Craftsman with a Craftsman router, the other a home-made table with a 1970s vintage Rockwell router.
A Rockwell radial arm saw, 1980s vintage.
A late 1950s vintage Delta 14 inch band saw.
A 1950s Homecraft/Sears vintage scroll saw.
This way I can rip, first mold, second mold, third mold, and that's the basic setup.
Then once I have all the pieces molded, I can change the heads as needed for the meeting joints etc.
MY COSTS:
The two table saws, with wings, from a scrap metal heap: $40.
The original Craftsman 3/4 and 1 HP motors, from a scrap pile and tested: $20
Vee belts and pulleys, found in scrap dumpsters etc. $0.00
The fences, pulled from a scrap metals bin (all extruded aluminum): $20.
Clamps for the fences: $18 from Rockler.
Misc bolts on hand...free.
The radial arm: picked up after being tossed off a pickup truck. Virtually new. $0.00...timing is everything!
The band saw...ditto. Tossing it broke the table trunnions, so about $40 for new ones, new tires ($30), new Cool Blox guides ($14), new upper wheel spring ($9), new guide bearing ($8).
Scroll saw $5 yard sale, I had a spare motor for it.
The shaper, bought at a field auction (literally in a field): $35.
All shaper cutters (four are carbide) in the next field auction lot: $35.
Three molding heads and many, many cutters I had on hand acquired over the years...I'd guess $30?
The Craftsman router and table, given to me by a friend. $0.00
The Rockwell router, $35 IIRC.
Router table from scraps of MDO, laminate etc...$10 for materials?
So about...$275-$300?
All acquired over the course of some 30 years.
Who in the hell keeps track of cost of materials for 30 years? Are you single as I don't see how any woman could be married to such a stickler.
I love the idea of multiple tables. I do similar thing with bench drill presses, leave setup for hinge drilling etc. You are so right about the lock mitre bits. I got mine about 20 years ago and only successfully used it once.
Love your channel and think your are an excellent finish carpenter. That being said ,safety working in your shop needs to improve before you seriously hurt yourself. I got chills watching you run your hands right past the router bits on your router table. You may feel comfortable doing it that way and you may think you have a firm grip on the work piece-but trust me - that router is much stronger then you are and has no conscience.
A little tip when making doors. Use glue up blanks for door rails and stiles. A 1x10 ripped in half and glued together with opposing grain will result in a 4.5” x 1.5” blank. Good for 1.5” interior doors stiles Or two 5/4 x6 glued together for exterior doors. It will be much more stable and less likely to warp than a solid piece of wood. You are putting so much time into these custom doors it would be a shame if they warped after installed.
Dude, don’t coil the remaining hoses for the mini split vertical, you need to lay them flat/horizontal. They have an oil in them that starts to starve the system if you have them vertical.
You remind me of me. I am a cabinetmaker in Lakewood (Cleveland) Ohio. I am now 63 years old. I had four daughters. I absolutely love what you are doing. Enjoy your children while they are little. You will be my age in a blink of an eye. Now I have to go, taking the grandkids to a haunted house tonight. 😊
Roy Underhill of the Woodwrights Shop does a great video on Door Construction with muntins demonstrating how to make these. I think it's listed under season 28 making a corner cabinet, well worth looking at.
Eye protection .. as well as some kind of push stick .. your fingers are everything brother don't skip the tips on a router bit a piece of wood that thin can shatter in the middle or on the off cut tear out !!
Eye and hearing protection ?
Nice set up. Well planned and executed. Very nice instructive video !
I didn’t mention feather boards, hold downs, push devices because others ahead of me did.
When you get old like me you’ll be thankful you used personal protective devices.
Your work is good .
Nice shop space utilization.
I wish I had worn hearing protection when I was younger. Now there are so many unnecessary arguments with the spouse because I can't hear as well, plus watching captions on TV sucks.
Grew up as a framer, switched trades but I got back into it with woodworking and I’ll say my experience with Narex chisels hasn’t let me down. A good choice all around.
I have a standard single car garage I made into a workshop. I put an 18,000 BTU mini split in that. I can keep the main door open and it still cools. I'm in So. Fl. so we get pretty hot down here too. I usually don't keep the main door open when the A/C is on but just pointing out how well these work. Being I can't put a car in there if I have to work on a car we also have a double car garage. I wonder if I put it in the wrong garage. :)
I have that router table and shortly after buying it the lament on the guards started to peel up preventing smooth travel across the table and messing up my material. If you start to see the slightest problem with those guide guards I would make your own out of solid wood to replace them. Outside of that it’s a good table. Love the shirt.
When I was doing RV conversion work, I had a 3 headed shaper for raised panels. made life easy
no need to deal with blow out on the router. I cut into the board backwards a little will do you. or just a extra sacrificial board on the back side.
I bought one of these and it lasted a year. Almost all of the tool is particle board so if you live in a humid area as I do good luck. It also was difficult to keep the working surfaces aligned and level, screws striped out. I tossed it.
I don't have any personal experience with this, but I saw comments by other HVAC people about looping the coils vertically like that causes the oil to get stuck in the loops and can starve the compressor causing it to fail. They said to bend them into horizontal loops that drain out.
Richard, you’ve always been really good, but your carpentry work is going to the next level. Great to watch you, man! Take care.
Stop playing with the router, buy a shaper and cutters and do this in one step and faster.
Great comment! Can you make a video of this shaper at work! Love learning new tools and techniques. Thanks again for this comment!
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Plenty of videos already out there, covering it from cutting custom knives to processing.
He already has the shaper it's in this video. Part of the combination machine.
@@theokbaxter Even worse, as the OP noted, changing setups on hobby tables is painful, while one can go this route, it still doesn’t solve the problem of setup. It also has the potential of sending novices down a less then optimal path. These router tables are decent for doing round overs, etc. I have one with a first rate adjustable lift just for that reason, as well as a stand alone shaper for profile work. On a side note I commented on this as UA-cam served it up to me.
A router table is the best tool to DIY since it cuts in a circular motion tangential to the workpiece it doesn't matter how poorly your fence is set up as long as it's perpendicular to the table it will always be tangential. Because its always tangential you can set up the fence to pivot instead of moving in and out giving you extreme precision if your fence is 4.5 feet long and more ergonomic by having the fence run diagonally to match my 4 foot by 2 foot router table with the dust extraction going out under the table between the table top and router, not thru the router, increasing router cooling too.
Use a sacrificial piece of wood as a backer when running a finish piece through the router it prevents the blowout at the end
Richard, very sweet setup. And the SCM minimax lab 300p is genuinely nice. Now I know everyone is giving you their two cents on using the router tables, so I'll add mine. You are making very heavy cuts on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd routers, which should be done with two shallower cuts. Your bits won't last long and it's putting a load on the routers as well. My biggest question is why you aren't taking advantage of the shaper/moulder on the minimax and cut the full profile on one side and then the other. It would be "exactly" what the shaper was made for, and it would do it faster and in less steps, and a full depth pass is fine on the shaper. Maybe I'm missing something, If so fill me in, please.
All the Best, Chuck
I can’t comment on the minimal but I can endorse your comments on the need to take several shallow cuts. As you say, it’s good for the bits amd the router motor but it’s also good for finish quality. Unless the grain is tight and runs straight then taking a large amount off in one step risks breakout of the timber and ruining your piece.
Constant pressure is another must. On short runs I overload with feather boards; on larger runs I use my power drive (not quick to set up right but it pays back that time on longer runs)
Third element for me is fence alignment. If you are taking material off the width of the piece then the outfeed side of the fence will not be supporting the material and there is the probability of inconsistent results. My Incra router table allows for each side of the fence (infeed and outfeed) to be adjusted separately. If another router table hasn’t got this feature, you will need to use shims on the outfeed. The offset of fence or shim should be equal to the amount of the width of the timber you are removing. So, for example, I want to put a bead on a thin wide piece of material; I know that, to get a very clear rounded bead, I’m going to have to take maybe 1mm from the width of the material. So, I either need to bring forward the outfeed fence by 1mm or attach a thin long piece of 1mm thick to the outfeed fence (I would use double sided tape).
If your desired shape means taking away a lot of material (for instance an accurate 45 degree cut through the centre of piece of 30mm square) then it’s best to use the table saw or band saw to get within 1mm or so of the finish dimension. You should also do this with multiple cuts on the table saw if you are want something like a dish shape.
I hope I’ve explained it and hope it helps someone. In my 45 years of woodworking, I’ve made every mistake possible, multiple times; I’ve learnt more swear words than there are in a dictionary and wasted enough timber to keep a timber mill very busy.
@@theofarmmanager267 I'm right behind you in years of experience my friend, and I agree with your comments. I think Richard came up with an ingenuous idea for production work, and it has potential, but as you and I can see there are some pit falls to his method as he is implementing it. I don't mean or want to knock him just for the sake of doing so, but I do want to share my experiences with routing so he can avoid what took me years to learn. As far as the Moulder goes, it is nothing more than an industrial sized router table. It is designed to do jobs just like this in one, in one pass. That is why I'm not sure why Richard isn't using it, it would have been a lot cheaper as well. He could have cut the sides on the moulder and set up a single router table for the initial end cut.
Anyway, take care and all the best, Chuck.
I'll probably never do any finish carpentry, but I sure enjoy your videos! Keep up the great work!! Blessings!!!
717 scam
If you haven't bought your extra line set cover yet, I had to also buy a second set to finish covering my line set so I have part of a set left over that I want to sell for about half the cost of a new set if you are interested. What is left in the second set is one elbow, a full 4' cover, a half 2' cover, elbow, head piece and tail piece. Mine is a Mr. Cool line set cover.
do you have plans to use the shaper built into your sliding table saw?
you did a great job on the mini spilt but just cut the drain line. they make the lines long IF you need it. So cut it long enough to drain the water away from the house.
Nothing wrong with those Narex chisels. I have a set myself. No need for the whole back to be dead flat so long as you get contact along the cutting edge when lapping the back, which it appears you do.
Whenever I had to make prototype machined parts in the machine shop tool room, I always made extra pieces for each feature's tool set up.
Narex are a decent chisel, honestly a cheap chisel can perform as well as an expensive chisel it's just more time invested to get a cheap chisel dialed in. Polish the back of those chisels out; use a piece of glass (True flatness) with ever finer sand paper. Start around 80 grit and work your way up to 1000 grit. You'll get a mirror finish on the chisel and although it's a lot of work, you will never have to do it again. You will impress yourself at how quickly you can achieve amazing razor thin shavings from the wood with a properly prepped chisel. You will be able to see through the wood shavings they are so thin.
If you put a scrap piece behind your end grain router cuts you support the fibers and don't get tear out.
Hello again Bro. I suggest a sacrificial board behind your good board when routeing if you dont want to get blow-out. I make one that acts almost like a push stick, and I use it again and again with the same profile.
Hello , the glass is the way they used to make it , I believe there is a natural wave and air bubbles in the glass . Air pump or heat pump as they call it in new zealand is the way to go . Your work is second to none , more power to you 👍
And then I saw you not using neither feather boards or push sticks on the rabbeting table. Protect your hands, my dude!
Beautiful work! But have you thought about energy efficiency of the hand made windows ？ single pane is a no no to me for windows or exterior doors. Maybe have a glass company make some double pane glass ?
717 scam
Excellent video! I’m glad to see that you are expanding your skillset the right way; research the techniques, tools, test pieces, etc. I can see your business expanding in the future.
As for the work on your house…you got that!
Thanks for taking us along on the ride.
Why isn't there a profile on the other stile to receive the coped end of the muntin bar. You're using a glass door rail and stile set up,
right? Freud makes shaper cutters especially for this application, which may have been done best on your shaper instead of 4 router
tables. TIP, when having to change out router bits or shaper cutters, zero out the height of the tool with a dial indicator and use that
zero height when re-installing the tool.
shapers are the correct way to be dooring this type of millwork . you can use router bits but its kind of like riding a bike to work instead of a car.
For the cost of 4 Bosch router tables, 4 routers, 4 support tables, DC collector fittings and bits you could have just gotten one 3 sided shaper. The shaper handles production work much better than routers because of larger horsepower motors and larger spindle sizes. Bonus: one floor standing multi-head shaper takes up far less real estate and connects directly into the DC. I use the Bosch table with my Porter Cable router and indeed it is a chore to swap out bits between rails, stiles, dovetails, copes and beveling. However I only make a few cabinets with doors and drawers. Any more volume and I will opt for a shaper.
What shaper is it you are referring?
Great set up. Set it & forget it. The Bosch router tables are so reasonable, that they pay for themselves after a few jobs. I know what you mean about cutting lock rabbets w/ a router table. I prefer to just use the table saw & off cuts as spacers to limit fence adjustments. Much less stress & better results using the table saw.
Try the rigid contractor table saw. This was meant for your Milwaukee/ DeWalt battery table saw video.
I would use a sacrificial wood for tear out .. and a feather board for ur smaller pieces. Be safe
Another thing you can do with your rabbeting bit is find some material (or cut some) that’s half the thickness of the width of rabbet and put that behind your fence then run your material through which will remove half. Then take the shims out and run material through again to your final dimension. That way you can remove it in 2 passes without thought the bit height or your fence. You can also use double sided sticky tape and attach the shims to the front but sometimes that’s hard to get off and you might move your fence trying to take it off. Also I got an email from (I think is you) saying I was selected and asking me to text a number. Is this legit
@Finish Carpentry TV
Rich, PLEASE don’t forget to do yearly maintenance on your mini split, either yourself, or from an HVAC Co. as will extend the life of the unit, worth it, and I suggest pick a date that won’t forget, like around a holiday or birthday (same for changing filters in your urbane etc….).
Congrats and take care ✌🏻
I do stained glass. I’ve done refinishing, refurbishing and furniture repairs. I have used German antique glass in a friends grandmothers China closet. It is gorgeous and the project came out great. I was dismayed that you would use anything other than tempered glass for any doorway. At all. Ever.
Back in the late 70's, I worked at a cabinet shop and went out and bought 10 craftsman routers and made a removable top table with a router attached with different table functions and just moved them in and out as needed with workstations set up. I made them with a work stock in and __!^^^!__ a work stock out as I machined the parts (for drawers). It was crazy efficient for a low cost of the routers.
For what it's worth coming from an hvac guy those extra loops on your refrigerant lines can cause an oil trap and eventually burn up your compressor. Great video on the door.
that is one of the best set ups for doors if you are not a big industrial shop. you are right about setting bits.i used to rout oak for trim packages for restaurants and i had talked the owner into 3 routers and they thought it was a wast of money Intel they seen me save about 2 hours in set up time. great set up. have you used any other tables ?i am looking to get a router table and they look like a great table.
push a sacrificial block through with it to avoid tear out when you cant rip the waste off.
You don't need to take the scallop out the back of the chisels it's there on purpose look up Japanese chisels, just polish the back leave the scallops in
Narex really is not that bad. Just get a 2' x 1' sheet of plate glass for all the grits you want to go through and glue some sheets to it. Makes flattening and sharpening much easier than stones. I keep a sharp set for detail work in the van at all times and they have saved my bacon instead of trying to get a framing beater chisel to do precision work with all the dings and chips in it.
Don't you need to use tempered glass when it's going to be that close to the ground?
Check local codes. Most codes specify ANY glass in a door be safety glass.
Includes sidelights.
Have not seen any of your vidios for about 2 years because of illness, I have watched your career evolve. I am retiring from a 41year career in carpentry and I have done very well financially, keep up the good work and you will retire a very happy man
Love watching your growth!!! I do a fair amount of chisel work, and sort of a chisel junkie, and to this day my Narex have been a super good choice as they hold an edge well and won't break the bank BUT they're also not cheapos... great choice. I evolved into double bevels for letter carving later on and the Pfiel are great, but my traditional Narex are a staple. Good choice. The notion of multiple router tables is spot on also in your situation. Changing bits SUCKS... Even my Woodpecker table doesn't make it easy... GREAT choice having multiple for your needs!!!
Make a square station and you can walk around from station to station and create a centralized dust collection for it
Only way I’ve found to have repeatable depths with having to chang bits is to make spacer blocks for the height of each of the bits
4 inch perimeter grids help the craftsman look of the windows.. carpenter pencils, or tape measures would be cool with your logo.
You know you have a spindle moulder built into your table saw..you could buy cutting blocks that would eliminate the need for four router tables
Look into “match fit dato stop” from Microjig to solve your lap concerns.
Please use a push stick to finish those router table passes: more reliable accuracy, more fingers at the end of the day.
As an old guy that grew up in a cabinet shop, I'd have probably bought a four head shaper table. Not sure how the math would work on that. Didn't have cheap router tables, in my day. You had to build them and it was a pain !
If you screw a piece of hardwood to your sliding T, you'll do away with the tear out on your coping bit..
Subscribed. Beautiful door!
If you put a sacrificial block in front of the pc you are routing then u won't have to worry about the tear out occurring on the finished pc but instead it will tear out the sacrificial block
Brother, Please, Please, Please get some push sticks or Gripprs for your router tables. Your hands are part of your livelyhood and you need to protect those fingers bro. Only takes a fraction of a second to get bit. Love the channel though.
Vacuum the outside drain line at least once a year…it get clogged up and it will start draining inside. Wet dry vacuum works.
Glad you're a UA-camr that isn't afraid to show what you believe in instead of being fake and trying to appeal to everyone.
you should have trimmed the extra length of line set down to exact fit, you don't want loops in the line set like that. my friend got 11 months out of his Mr. Cool and they left him high and dry on warranty. I wish you good luck and hopefully you don't have the problems his did.
Mount a backer board on your miter that will support your work when you come through the pass & it will stop that tear out at 4:46. Like cut a 1x2 hardwood that screws to the miter and butts up to the fence Do this on all the profiles and you will have all clean cut's as long as making the same cut.
Very nice little shop. I my self am in a 1 car garage and have to use Shopsmith tools just to save the room. The trick to a miter lock bit it to take as long as you need to make a perfect cut on a short board the exact thickness you need. Then drill a hole in it and paint it bright yellow or orange and hang it on the wall or the inside the router cabinet doors. I always paint little patterns like that so I am not going to accidently toss them out or use them as scrap latter. I like the looks of the domino but to me it is way over priced to do what a drill bit and large dowel rod can do. Horizontal boring that the Shopsmith can do really comes in handy for that or even, drilling actually square mortis holes with it and then cutting tenons. But I am in love with your sliding Man saw. OMG that is nice Saw. I subscribe slow lets see how things are going 1 year later from this Video.
If you keep at it long enough, then you'll ditch the routers and your shop will have shapers, powerfeeders, and large diameter matched set cope and stick cutters.
Something about those router tables in the center bothers me. I figure it's for space savings but I would rather have them all facing out. Each facing north south east and west back to back. Would take up more room but seems safer with a easier work flow.
I’m about to build double doors out of white oak for my shop. May put rectangle piece of Lexicon in top of each. Need excuse to buy the Festool 700
very nice. ! you could daisy chain planners too:) have one planner feed the next planner, and set that up to hit the same board 3 or 4 times and take it down a quarter of an inch every time you send it through.