I took the long way around to the best airbrush ive ever used. Ive tried Amazon specials, Badger, H&S Ultra, Eclipse HP-BS and finally got the HP-CS. I now do not use any of the others. The HP-CS is pure joy to use, lays down paint smooth as silk and is SUPER easy to mix in the cup and clean. I did get mine at Hobby Lobby also for $149 with the cleaner, lube, water trap and paints. Best deal going. Grab one and you WILL NOT be disappointed. I dont usually gush over a product, but this one is gush worthy!
clearly i have a ridiculous amount of airbrushes to use. the eclipse is the one I use more often than any other airbrush. Ive said this many times.. if I could only have 1 airbrush. It would be the iwata eclipse HP CS. Period. it still holds and has yet to be knocked off its perch for me.
Hi Bill. Good review. I am not a big fan of my Eclipse. But then when I got it I was at Death Row Motorcycles in Pa. and the guy who ran the paint shop before me left it on top of the paint cabinet filled and dried solid with urethane. I called him and he said it was up there for over a year and to toss it. So I tossed into a try of liquor thinner. soaked it for days, till I could get it apart. Then soaked the parts till they were clean. Straightened the needle, but never replaced anything. I use it for solid areas and such. But not much else. Maybe I'll treat it to a new needle, nozzle, and seals.
its worth getting a new needle and nozzle for sure. The needle packing can / should be tested/adjusted before you just toss money at that. And usually the air valves can be cleaned.. if the trigger isnt sticky then no need to do anything there.
I just purchased a new HP CS with an additional set of .5 neddles, found not much difference for now, but I think there is something wrong because the needle is a little bit tighter to go through the needle packing screw as if the neddle is a bit thicker, the package says it is the 617 1. I fear it damages the FPTE seal and allow paint to go through the air system, still getting a hold on the airbrush as it is but I thought it could be useful to have another needle set for thicker paints, what would you do for a brand new piece? I only have this HP CS and I am not planning to buy another for now. Thank you for the video.
First you have to change the needle nozzle and air cap all 3 to convert it The part number you have is correct. There can be very small tolerance differences between one part and another. And sometimes they feel a little tight going through the needle packing I can’t say if yours is too tight of course without being there. Check it again against the factory needle. If they are bent they can drag as well, roll on a flat surface and make sure it isn’t bent.
@@billkennedy1220 Thank you, I have all three parts and verified the correct numbers, the needle is in perfect condition but it seems a little bit thicker, I will assume the needle packaging screw needs adjustment, so I'll wait until I receive the disarming tools I got, hopefully, it's just a tweaking thing. Thanks again for the info shared in your channel, it sure helped me decide to get this beauty. Have a good one.
Ok, I got a question. Iwata Eclipse says that working pressure for the HP-CS model is 25-35 PSI. But Vallejo Model Air colors say that their colors work at 15-20 PSI. Does this mean that we can't use Vallejo colors with an Eclipse? If we set to 15 PSI which is out of Iwata's specs, does it not work at full potential? And if we set to 25 PSI which is out of Vallejo's recommendation, do their color spray incorrectly?
The eclipse will work well down below 25 psi. And way above 35 psi I can’t speak in Vallejo colors specifically because I don’t use them. However you can spray ultra thin to fairly heavily pigmented paints with an eclipse.
I’m new to abrush- how do you get it to paint thin lines??? Your demo was amazing. But is there an adjustment on the brush that allows you to get thin lines? Thanks
It really comes down to a balance First for fine lines the paint and pressure need to be in sync. Also trigger control takes a while to build. I have a video discussing fine lines and about the balance of pressure and viscosity. Also developing the good habit of keeping the air on early on will pay big returns in the future
Thank you for all your videos. Just learning, have a Master G22, and purchased a Timbertech AG 183K from your Amazon storefront. Which of the two do you recommend for clear coat? Mostly on RC cars.
The at 183 with the .8 will do much better with clears. Primers and pearls as well. Than the g22. The g22 is really a very low end of the scale airbrush. They do surprisingly well with thinned paint and can be decent performers is kept after. They aren’t junk, but they are definitely not what I’d want to be spraying heavier thicker paints with. The 183 otoh is definitely way better at larger stuff than it should be. My biggest gripe is probably the threaded cups. Some love that myself I find they are just harder to clean than a welded in single piece c cup.
Thanks everyone! Also if you do not need a C cup, and like everything about the eclipse. The BS is still available on Amazon at a significantly lower price. you can find it HERE! amzn.to/3XnOwai This post may contain affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate and a member of other affiliate programs, I may earn a small compensation from qualifying purchases. All opinions and recommendations are my own.
Quick question... I have the .35 version and focusing on model cars now. Another UA-camr states that one would need a .5 needle/nozzle for spraying the metallic/metal flake paints. Your thoughts?
On metallics you will.. some pearls spray ok in the .35. That's the reason a lot of modelers like badger. The patriot with a large needle will spray just about anything I have started using a cheap airbrush i recently reviewed for that. If Iwata came out with a more aggresive taper needle at say a .8 id be all over it even though I only occasionally dabble on models and such.
Hello, I have an experience with cheap 0.8mm AB, if your are interested look for Fengda BD 183. I have this AB for 2-3 months, using it for painting with dark colours and primers, made a needle polishing at the begining only with Tamiya polishing compound, it works 10/10 for me(I know your are talking about metal paints, just sharing my opinion with you😊, hope you will find my opinion interesting)
0:00 "im gonna review my iwata eclipse hp cs and my iwata eclipse hp cs". WHAT? even the subtitles says he said the same exact thing. in the description he linked to the hp bs but that has a MUCH smaller cup and was not what he was holding up for either of them.
Perhaps you have had a lot of "holiday cheer" If this really confuses you.. within the first 13 seconds in the very same breath i said one was a .5 conversion. Two versions same brush. In the "description" the very first listing is the Iwata eclipse HP CS. In the "comments" well its pretty clear what I said" Merry Christmas!
I took the long way around to the best airbrush ive ever used. Ive tried Amazon specials, Badger, H&S Ultra, Eclipse HP-BS and finally got the HP-CS. I now do not use any of the others. The HP-CS is pure joy to use, lays down paint smooth as silk and is SUPER easy to mix in the cup and clean. I did get mine at Hobby Lobby also for $149 with the cleaner, lube, water trap and paints. Best deal going. Grab one and you WILL NOT be disappointed. I dont usually gush over a product, but this one is gush worthy!
clearly i have a ridiculous amount of airbrushes to use.
the eclipse is the one I use more often than any other airbrush.
Ive said this many times.. if I could only have 1 airbrush. It would be the iwata eclipse HP CS. Period.
it still holds and has yet to be knocked off its perch for me.
Just picked up the HP-CS at Hobby Lobby today. Glad to hear it seems to be a good choice.
Interesting, fast and informative review, thanks a lot. Useful for me because I'm going to by Eclipse HP-CS one day
Hi Bill. Good review. I am not a big fan of my Eclipse. But then when I got it I was at Death Row Motorcycles in Pa. and the guy who ran the paint shop before me left it on top of the paint cabinet filled and dried solid with urethane. I called him and he said it was up there for over a year and to toss it. So I tossed into a try of liquor thinner. soaked it for days, till I could get it apart. Then soaked the parts till they were clean. Straightened the needle, but never replaced anything. I use it for solid areas and such. But not much else. Maybe I'll treat it to a new needle, nozzle, and seals.
its worth getting a new needle and nozzle for sure. The needle packing can / should be tested/adjusted before you just toss money at that. And usually the air valves can be cleaned.. if the trigger isnt sticky then no need to do anything there.
I just purchased a new HP CS with an additional set of .5 neddles, found not much difference for now, but I think there is something wrong because the needle is a little bit tighter to go through the needle packing screw as if the neddle is a bit thicker, the package says it is the 617 1. I fear it damages the FPTE seal and allow paint to go through the air system, still getting a hold on the airbrush as it is but I thought it could be useful to have another needle set for thicker paints, what would you do for a brand new piece? I only have this HP CS and I am not planning to buy another for now. Thank you for the video.
First you have to change the needle nozzle and air cap all 3 to convert it
The part number you have is correct. There can be very small tolerance differences between one part and another.
And sometimes they feel a little tight going through the needle packing
I can’t say if yours is too tight of course without being there.
Check it again against the factory needle.
If they are bent they can drag as well, roll on a flat surface and make sure it isn’t bent.
@@billkennedy1220 Thank you, I have all three parts and verified the correct numbers, the needle is in perfect condition but it seems a little bit thicker, I will assume the needle packaging screw needs adjustment, so I'll wait until I receive the disarming tools I got, hopefully, it's just a tweaking thing. Thanks again for the info shared in your channel, it sure helped me decide to get this beauty. Have a good one.
Ok, I got a question. Iwata Eclipse says that working pressure for the HP-CS model is 25-35 PSI. But Vallejo Model Air colors say that their colors work at 15-20 PSI.
Does this mean that we can't use Vallejo colors with an Eclipse? If we set to 15 PSI which is out of Iwata's specs, does it not work at full potential? And if we set to 25 PSI which is out of Vallejo's recommendation, do their color spray incorrectly?
The eclipse will work well down below 25 psi. And way above 35 psi
I can’t speak in Vallejo colors specifically because I don’t use them. However you can spray ultra thin to fairly heavily pigmented paints with an eclipse.
I’m new to abrush- how do you get it to paint thin lines??? Your demo was amazing. But is there an adjustment on the brush that allows you to get thin lines? Thanks
It really comes down to a balance
First for fine lines the paint and pressure need to be in sync. Also trigger control takes a while to build.
I have a video discussing fine lines and about the balance of pressure and viscosity.
Also developing the good habit of keeping the air on early on will pay big returns in the future
Thank you for all your videos. Just learning, have a Master G22, and purchased a Timbertech AG 183K from your Amazon storefront. Which of the two do you recommend for clear coat? Mostly on RC cars.
The at 183 with the .8 will do much better with clears. Primers and pearls as well. Than the g22.
The g22 is really a very low end of the scale airbrush. They do surprisingly well with thinned paint and can be decent performers is kept after. They aren’t junk, but they are definitely not what I’d want to be spraying heavier thicker paints with.
The 183 otoh is definitely way better at larger stuff than it should be. My biggest gripe is probably the threaded cups. Some love that myself I find they are just harder to clean than a welded in single piece c cup.
@@TheAIRspace Thank you.
Thanks everyone!
Also if you do not need a C cup, and like everything about the eclipse. The BS is still available on Amazon at a significantly lower price. you can find it HERE!
amzn.to/3XnOwai
This post may contain affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate and a member of other affiliate programs, I may earn a small compensation from qualifying purchases. All opinions and recommendations are my own.
Quick question...
I have the .35 version and focusing on model cars now. Another UA-camr states that one would need a .5 needle/nozzle for spraying the metallic/metal flake paints. Your thoughts?
On metallics you will.. some pearls spray ok in the .35.
That's the reason a lot of modelers like badger. The patriot with a large needle will spray just about anything I have started using a cheap airbrush i recently reviewed for that. If Iwata came out with a more aggresive taper needle at say a .8 id be all over it even though I only occasionally dabble on models and such.
Getting ready to buy another. I talked to you on fb about mine screwing up. Are they standard .35 or .5?
@@TheAIRspace Thank you so much.
Hello, I have an experience with cheap 0.8mm AB, if your are interested look for Fengda BD 183. I have this AB for 2-3 months, using it for painting with dark colours and primers, made a needle polishing at the begining only with Tamiya polishing compound, it works 10/10 for me(I know your are talking about metal paints, just sharing my opinion with you😊, hope you will find my opinion interesting)
@@madera7170 Thank you!
Bonjour de quel éclipse parlez vous ? J'adore ce que vous faites..
this is the iwata eclipse Hp-CS
Merci pour la réponse..quel peinture utilisez vous, pour les tableaux ? Createx illustration ?
0:00 "im gonna review my iwata eclipse hp cs and my iwata eclipse hp cs". WHAT? even the subtitles says he said the same exact thing. in the description he linked to the hp bs but that has a MUCH smaller cup and was not what he was holding up for either of them.
Perhaps you have had a lot of "holiday cheer" If this really confuses you.. within the first 13 seconds in the very same breath i said one was a .5 conversion. Two versions same brush.
In the "description" the very first listing is the Iwata eclipse HP CS.
In the "comments" well its pretty clear what I said"
Merry Christmas!
No interest in model car