My opinion on the subject has always been - It’s the hand that holds the brush that matters most. Experience, technical ability along with vast artistic knowledge can make any brand of brush shine. All coming together to produce a high quality artwork. I’ve used the Vega 2000 #3 (0.75mm) for most of my art career and have painted portraits on trucker hats the size of my palm. Not too shabby for an airbrush that is viewed as a ‘general purpose’ brush… which proves the point I’m making. You’re doing a good job with bringing more info on airbrushing. Keep up the good work 🤙
Thanks Ollie! I use an Omni a lot myself. And when I first got it, i painted a cat on canvas livestreamed. Painting even the whiskers with just that brush. What is hard to make folks understand is the high end airbrushes are not a huge jump in fine lines, what they do very well is those micro blends and fades much easier. They also tend to atomize much finer and smoother. But linework is about adjusting the balance act of pressure and reducer. And of course keeping the brush moving. Hesitation kills as they say confidence of stroke :)
May I ask a question that you may of answered in a different video but I’m just finding you? When we set up on a shop compressor, we have the built in regulator and then the second regulator and water trap. What pressure do we use on the built in compressor regulator if the water trap regulator is where we control the final pressure to the air gun, if I worded that correctly? Should the air compressor regulator be wide open or just set to the same pressure we use at the water trap?
I usually set my main compressor regulator at 80. It doesn't necessarily need to be that high. But i would aim for at least a few pounds higher than you will want from your secondary regulator. You can run it wide open as well, as long as your air lines and secondary regulator are up to the incoming pressure. Most are going to be rated over 125 psi.
I was painting with my Iwata Eclips HP-CS, using Createx Illustration paint, reduced by 50% with distilled water, at 18 psi, on synthetic paper. When I tried to paint a fine line over my background color it dissolved the background paint, as you indicated would happen. Do I have to experiment to determine what combination of reduction and pressure would prevent this from happening, or what would you suggest?
with that much water you would really have to dial the psi down even further.. Of course it is somewhat dependant on the thickness and durability of the paint you have underneath Synthetics and hard surfaces are going to be much more susceptible to "cutting through" as you are experiencing. I don't know why more people don't talk about that subject at all. The typical advice always says... reduce reduce reduce! At the end of the day experiment.. myself if I don't need to blend a small gradient would run illustration straight or barely reduced out of the eclipse at that pressure.
I want to get into airbrushing T-shirts but I don’t know how to use the Createx paint and thinner “reducer” Like I have no clue if I have to thin the black out or what I have to do if someone can make a video that would be cool Also I want to know if I’m allowed to paint in a bedroom or a garage or if I need a ton of ventilation for createx paints
Doing t shirts you will not want to use a lot of reducer. You would use a higher pressure in most cases and push the paint into the fabric There are exceptions of course and laying a layer of transparent base and ironing the shirt smooth would allow you to go lower pressures and lay a more reduced paint I don’t really airbrush tees anymore but on occasion. And some techniques are definitely different on different surfaces. However all the basics still are the same As for painting without ventilation. Your going to want some. And you should always wear a mask especially if you have poor ventilation. You can get by filtering the air and in fact I do use filters in my indoor setup. Preferably pulling through the back behind your surface. However many people run a filter simply attached to a box fan. I do have a video showing my small booth setup and how I handle filtration. But like all things these days you need to research and use good judgement.
I have a short question does all airbrush artist have to do all these tutorials and practice airbrushing or do some people just have it and just start airbrushing things and just go with the flow or is it better to do all the practice?
The odds of someone "just having it" are really low. However some will pick it up faster than others. With that said everyone will have to practice some.. I am a firm believer that getting the basics down, doodling some and putting just a few minutes into lines and dots each time you pick up the brush will get MOST people along quickly. I have a video on control, and one of the things I stressed was just doodling pictures and having fun. Because some people can practice lines and dots and excercises for hours, some cannot. But everyone will have to do some. I havent "practiced" other than to demo stuff in a very long time. But the very first thing I do after repairing an airbrush, or when I first pick one up and put paint in it for the day Is test the flow.. which means making a couple dots and lines. Of course this will depend on expectations. For instance it takes very little skill and practice to learn blending and not much practice to learn to basecoat models and items. (although some knowledge is required) But when you get into detailed artwork for certain its gonna take some practice. Thos fine details are a technical skill. The knoledge of art is another skill. TBH it will take a lot longer to learn the art skills than the technical ones Good question! Hope that helps some!
I am definitely not at this air brushing level yet , I watched your stencils video , I am trying to work how how to do my tyranid hordes scales with a stencil and then once they are done will work on fine lines for my centerpieces. Trying to figure out how to do one of these patterns. i.imgur.com/di0UFKf.png i.imgur.com/CUIZCmG.png Best wishes
generally most cut the diamond pattern and catch just the shadow off the edge, however to really get that look, you have to come back and shadow each individual piece. IE create a light shading blend on the opposite side of the light. In your case on models i would consider light to always be from above. A light shadow under each diamond pattern and let it gradient out to the midpoint and then another gradient from the midpoint to the lower tip of each scale. I would probably have to make a small video for that to make sense :/
Awesome video! Thank you!
Great practical information, and great tips, thanks for sharing!
My opinion on the subject has always been - It’s the hand that holds the brush that matters most. Experience, technical ability along with vast artistic knowledge can make any brand of brush shine. All coming together to produce a high quality artwork.
I’ve used the Vega 2000 #3 (0.75mm) for most of my art career and have painted portraits on trucker hats the size of my palm. Not too shabby for an airbrush that is viewed as a ‘general purpose’ brush… which proves the point I’m making.
You’re doing a good job with bringing more info on airbrushing. Keep up the good work 🤙
Thanks Ollie! I use an Omni a lot myself. And when I first got it, i painted a cat on canvas livestreamed. Painting even the whiskers with just that brush. What is hard to make folks understand is the high end airbrushes are not a huge jump in fine lines, what they do very well is those micro blends and fades much easier. They also tend to atomize much finer and smoother. But linework is about adjusting the balance act of pressure and reducer. And of course keeping the brush moving. Hesitation kills as they say confidence of stroke :)
great information !!
Great video 👏 Very informative. Thanks
Your very welcome! Thanks for coming by and leaving a comment!
Thanks for a very helpful and informative video bill. 👍👍🍻
You are very welcome!
Good information gdaddy
Thanks Buddy!
Bel video e spiegato molto bene bravo
Thank you!
May I ask a question that you may of answered in a different video but I’m just finding you?
When we set up on a shop compressor, we have the built in regulator and then the second regulator and water trap.
What pressure do we use on the built in compressor regulator if the water trap regulator is where we control the final pressure to the air gun, if I worded that correctly?
Should the air compressor regulator be wide open or just set to the same pressure we use at the water trap?
I usually set my main compressor regulator at 80. It doesn't necessarily need to be that high. But i would aim for at least a few pounds higher than you will want from your secondary regulator. You can run it wide open as well, as long as your air lines and secondary regulator are up to the incoming pressure. Most are going to be rated over 125 psi.
I was painting with my Iwata Eclips HP-CS, using Createx Illustration paint, reduced by 50% with distilled water, at 18 psi, on synthetic paper. When I tried to paint a fine line over my background color it dissolved the background paint, as you indicated would happen. Do I have to experiment to determine what combination of reduction and pressure would prevent this from happening, or what would you suggest?
with that much water you would really have to dial the psi down even further.. Of course it is somewhat dependant on the thickness and durability of the paint you have underneath
Synthetics and hard surfaces are going to be much more susceptible to "cutting through" as you are experiencing. I don't know why more people don't talk about that subject at all. The typical advice always says... reduce reduce reduce!
At the end of the day experiment.. myself if I don't need to blend a small gradient would run illustration straight or barely reduced out of the eclipse at that pressure.
Thanks for the help, I will try dropping the pressure, and in a separate experiment using less reduction. I will let you know what worked.
Whats your paint to thinner ratio?
I want to get into airbrushing T-shirts but I don’t know how to use the Createx paint and thinner “reducer” Like I have no clue if I have to thin the black out or what I have to do if someone can make a video that would be cool Also I want to know if I’m allowed to paint in a bedroom or a garage or if I need a ton of ventilation for createx paints
Doing t shirts you will not want to use a lot of reducer. You would use a higher pressure in most cases and push the paint into the fabric
There are exceptions of course and laying a layer of transparent base and ironing the shirt smooth would allow you to go lower pressures and lay a more reduced paint I don’t really airbrush tees anymore but on occasion. And some techniques are definitely different on different surfaces. However all the basics still are the same
As for painting without ventilation.
Your going to want some. And you should always wear a mask especially if you have poor ventilation. You can get by filtering the air and in fact I do use filters in my indoor setup. Preferably pulling through the back behind your surface. However many people run a filter simply attached to a box fan. I do have a video showing my small booth setup and how I handle filtration. But like all things these days you need to research and use good judgement.
I have a short question does all airbrush artist have to do all these tutorials and practice airbrushing or do some people just have it and just start airbrushing things and just go with the flow or is it better to do all the practice?
The odds of someone "just having it" are really low. However some will pick it up faster than others.
With that said everyone will have to practice some.. I am a firm believer that getting the basics down, doodling some and putting just a few minutes into lines and dots each time you pick up the brush will get MOST people along quickly.
I have a video on control, and one of the things I stressed was just doodling pictures and having fun. Because some people can practice lines and dots and excercises for hours, some cannot. But everyone will have to do some. I havent "practiced" other than to demo stuff in a very long time. But the very first thing I do after repairing an airbrush, or when I first pick one up and put paint in it for the day Is test the flow.. which means making a couple dots and lines.
Of course this will depend on expectations. For instance it takes very little skill and practice to learn blending and not much practice to learn to basecoat models and items. (although some knowledge is required) But when you get into detailed artwork for certain its gonna take some practice.
Thos fine details are a technical skill. The knoledge of art is another skill. TBH it will take a lot longer to learn the art skills than the technical ones
Good question! Hope that helps some!
@@TheAIRspace yes, thank you I do appreciate this. It was always a curiosity.
ha ha do not drag it up and down .. lollz i also like to use sponge instead of cotton
Tell me more about meth tho
I am definitely not at this air brushing level yet , I watched your stencils video , I am trying to work how how to do my tyranid hordes scales with a stencil and then once they are done will work on fine lines for my centerpieces.
Trying to figure out how to do one of these patterns. i.imgur.com/di0UFKf.png i.imgur.com/CUIZCmG.png
Best wishes
generally most cut the diamond pattern and catch just the shadow off the edge, however to really get that look, you have to come back and shadow each individual piece. IE create a light shading blend on the opposite side of the light. In your case on models i would consider light to always be from above. A light shadow under each diamond pattern and let it gradient out to the midpoint and then another gradient from the midpoint to the lower tip of each scale. I would probably have to make a small video for that to make sense :/
@@TheAIRspace I think I follow , thank you for the suggestions