After looking the utility trailers, your one is the best one I have seen so far. If I wanted to get one this is the route I will go. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job on trailer build. To air those tires: Wrap a 2" ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and crank the strap tight. The air gaps disappear quickly and its a whole lot less stressful than using ether.
You're welcome. ...and you're right. As long as you can get the base laid out flat (in a plane) and you get it all squared up and triangulated, it should tow fine. By the way, one way to make sure it is square is to just buy a sheet of 4X8 plywood and use that as your template. As long as you are building a 4X8 trailer, and you keep the side rails lined up with the plywood edges, it would be practically impossible to mess it up....
Nice build I have a 4x8 that I need to put a larger axle on so I can run 33s like I have on my Jeep but have plans for a 4x4 build. Thanks for the tutorial.
Always make sure to grind and clean any metal that is to be welded. This gives you a much stronger, cleaner weld. If this trailer fails under and heavy load, it is most likely going to be right were you welded straight onto rust..
Nice trailer I think I should have been a little bit lower with the wheels coming up above the bed. I'll probably notch cut and weld mine so that the bed sits lower to the axle.
great idea. should have bolted the hitch on. floor wire should have been brought to the outside edge. wire tears, breaks and rust. repair is to reweld. would have to replace if your wire is ever compromised.
Muriatic acid removes the galvanization from metals. Much better and safer than just holding your breath and welding outside. Give it a try next time, you'll find it much safer
I've seen that! Yeah, that would be great! Of course, you also have to watch the fumes released during that process as well. But the welds would undoubtedly be higher quality after removing the galvanization as well. Great tip!
Do you know how much weight it can hold? Thanks so much for the work put into your videos. I'm thinking of making a teardrop trailer to pull behind my caravan.
***** I've carried a 4-wheeler (maybe 500-600 lbs) and I've carried a full load of camping gear. The only time I overloaded it, I filled it with packaged roofing singles (approx 2400 pounds) and the frame was sitting on the axle. So I think 500 to 1000 lbs is probably the maximum safe load....though I did carry that 2400 pounds across town (very slowly).
They're installed on the trailer the same way they come on the minivan. I think dodge makes them that way to get the floor level of the van to be lower to the ground for a lower center of gravity.
It's been six years. How is the trailer working for you? It seems to me the shackles are hanging the wrong direction. You say vertical when they are loaded. The eye of the leaf spring should be rearward of the shackle top mount by about 15⁰ or so. This would allow the spring a little smoother movement. It would already "want" to move that way and not have to fight the vertical load. Edit: Other than that, I really like the build. Good job.
It's still working great. Someone ran over the tongue the other day while I was having the tires changed, and I did end up having to chop a little bit off of the tongue and put on a new hitch. I also just moved from Utah to Colorado and of course towed the trailer all the way. :)
The axle/springs/wheels/tires assembly is the heaviest part. Without that, I can easily lift one end of it (I'm a skinny little dude). In total, I'm guessing the total weight is around 500 lbs? One of these days I need to take it to a place where they will weigh it...
FogoFox any scrap yard would have scales and can print you a receipt. also truck stops have scales that you can use to get a weight and printout. Nice build
where did you get the axle, was it included in your price or was it just laying around. what should I look for when locating an axle for a project like this.
Tony Warren It's from a minivan that hit a deer. The dude who owned it was going to scrap the whole thing, so he sold me the rear axle (with springs/brackets) for $30.
Yes, a full sheet will lay flat in it. It's interesting you ask, because that was certainly one of the design criteria. Actually, the metal mesh that was welded in as the floor came in a 4X8 sheet. When we welded it in, it was just barely big enough to get it to stretch out to meet the inside edges of the frame. The upright steel is welded at the outside of the frame. So there is actually a couple inches clearance in there for a full 4X8 sheet.
I think you're asking how I triangulated the distance from the hitch to each wheel? Basically, the wheels had no tires on them at the time, so it was rather simple to measure from the hitch to the very forward-most point of each rim. If you have the tires installed, I think that could introduce some unwanted variation...
I think it would have been better and stronger if you had welded the tongue piece on top of the three crossbars instead of cutting them and notching them. (basically build it upside down)
mmorales3741 Angle beam kind of sucks for building something that is supposed to be lightweight and strong. Let me explain. From a structural perspective, the fattest part of angle beam is at the corner (the center) whereas in order to provide maximum strength (think if an I-beam) you actually want the thicker part out at the edges. Angle beam gives you more weight and less strength per foot than tubing. If you were to hold equal lengths of angle beam and tubing that weighed exactly the same amount, you would see that the angle beam is much more flexy.
Yea but your talking long distances. This is less than 8 ft. Less than the 12' stock that it comes in. I'm a structural designer and angle iron is preferred over tubung almost always. Not to mention you have much more options with angle, and you can get it in many thicknesses to deal with the strength you need. Although I think if you cap the ends of the tubing the lifespan of it is superior.
mmorales3741 Not sure why it matters. Stiffer over a long distance or stiffer over a short distance, the tube is stiffer. May I ask, as a structural designer, what are the factors that lead you to specify angle iron over tubing? Is it fabrication ease? Material availability? Cheaper per lineal foot? Habit? In a situation where you are building something where weight is not a factor (like a building) you may well use different materials than when you are looking to find the best meeting of weight/strength/price.
Correct. I assume you make this comment because it is difficult to tell in the video that I did actually grind the rust off the weld surfaces of those rusty shackle brackets. It's just really hard to see.
You're clearly a good craftsman, but I would encourage you to STOP buying made in china crap from harbor freight ! Better quality American made tools and materials will provide you and your family with much more safety, quality, and they will last you FAR longer. In addition, you'll support American workers, better environmental standards, you will not promote child labor, and most importantly you will not be supporting a government that wants to take over Taiwan and the U.S. Please consider using your right to choose, and choose AMERICAN when you can. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. I hear others saying this and believe it to be true, but I am curious as to why. Does anyone know what advantage there is to bolting it on instead of welding?
The sheering load required to snap a bolt(s) is significantly greater then a weld.. especially if a weld has a fracture over time and / or a small airpocket in-bedded during the welding process.
I welded two of my trailer hitches and carry heavy equipment on them. Never had any problems with them. This is five years later. Great video by the way.
After looking the utility trailers, your one is the best one I have seen so far. If I wanted to get one this is the route I will go. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job on trailer build. To air those tires: Wrap a 2" ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire and crank the strap tight. The air gaps disappear quickly and its a whole lot less stressful than using ether.
But not nearly as much fun.
Nice build. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the video and cheers from Utah too
Nice workmanship and attention to details!
Thanks!
You did a great job putting that trailer together.... Awesome...
Rudy Hernandez Thanks!
Nice fab work. Good to see a build from something that used to be. I would have added a bit more tong support. But 3 inch square tubing is perfect
Nice little trailer, great instructional video and nice building skills.
Thanks!
Thanks for these videos! I'm new to welding and am glad to see that building trailers isn't anything close to rocket science.
You're welcome. ...and you're right. As long as you can get the base laid out flat (in a plane) and you get it all squared up and triangulated, it should tow fine. By the way, one way to make sure it is square is to just buy a sheet of 4X8 plywood and use that as your template. As long as you are building a 4X8 trailer, and you keep the side rails lined up with the plywood edges, it would be practically impossible to mess it up....
+FogoFox
Ya. Thats the idea I had as well to make one over the winter. Thanks for the video!
Great job - I really like the idea of using an automotive axle. I will do the same when I build my next windsurfing trailer.
Nice build I have a 4x8 that I need to put a larger axle on so I can run 33s like I have on my Jeep but have plans for a 4x4 build. Thanks for the tutorial.
Nice Build but you made one small error the rear shackle need be at 15/20 deg rake
Nice trailer build! I'd make some more of those "U" pieces out of the chain and weld them on around the top rail for good tie-down points.
nice job, one of the best i've seen. A+
How's it holding up? I always thought that you wanted the shackles to lean forward just a little so the leaf can flex.
Great videos, very helpful!
Always make sure to grind and clean any metal that is to be welded. This gives you a much stronger, cleaner weld. If this trailer fails under and heavy load, it is most likely going to be right were you welded straight onto rust..
GRT1005 Absolutely correct.
Could have lowered frame by attaching shackles to mounts on side of frame instead of bottom, since axle was already lowered in relation to spindles.
Nice job on making your trailer .
Nice trailer I think I should have been a little bit lower with the wheels coming up above the bed. I'll probably notch cut and weld mine so that the bed sits lower to the axle.
Great build and very informative!!
Thanks!
great idea. should have bolted the hitch on. floor wire should have been brought to the outside edge. wire tears, breaks and rust. repair is to reweld. would have to replace if your wire is ever compromised.
Condensation on inside of metal tubing will still rust... unless you live where it stays warn year round.
LOVE learn how to simple weld.
The things I could make!
Thanks for the great ups.
Nice tutorial and nice work! Whats about part 3?
Greetings from Germany
+Multibox235 Soon...very soon...
Did you see part three yet? What did you think? Hopefully part three answers any and all questions.
Muriatic acid removes the galvanization from metals. Much better and safer than just holding your breath and welding outside. Give it a try next time, you'll find it much safer
I've seen that! Yeah, that would be great! Of course, you also have to watch the fumes released during that process as well. But the welds would undoubtedly be higher quality after removing the galvanization as well. Great tip!
wonderful job I think you did a wonderful job. You've given me new ideas on my next trailer project..thank you..
I am making the same with your video reference. can you tell me where is the best place to weld the axle ?? how do i measure?
Any chance you still have your plans for that trailer? Measurements and all. If you do, do you mind sharing them
Do you know how much weight it can hold? Thanks so much for the work put into your videos. I'm thinking of making a teardrop trailer to pull behind my caravan.
***** I've carried a 4-wheeler (maybe 500-600 lbs) and I've carried a full load of camping gear. The only time I overloaded it, I filled it with packaged roofing singles (approx 2400 pounds) and the frame was sitting on the axle. So I think 500 to 1000 lbs is probably the maximum safe load....though I did carry that 2400 pounds across town (very slowly).
Hi - question... are those axles not upside down?
They're installed on the trailer the same way they come on the minivan. I think dodge makes them that way to get the floor level of the van to be lower to the ground for a lower center of gravity.
Nice build
Remove rust first, then weld and assemble. Much better and easier to do.
AWESOME work bud...you give me some ideas ;) thanks!!!
Thanks for making the video . I learned alot,and I'm no dummy .
It's been six years. How is the trailer working for you?
It seems to me the shackles are hanging the wrong direction. You say vertical when they are loaded. The eye of the leaf spring should be rearward of the shackle top mount by about 15⁰ or so. This would allow the spring a little smoother movement. It would already "want" to move that way and not have to fight the vertical load.
Edit: Other than that, I really like the build. Good job.
It's still working great. Someone ran over the tongue the other day while I was having the tires changed, and I did end up having to chop a little bit off of the tongue and put on a new hitch. I also just moved from Utah to Colorado and of course towed the trailer all the way. :)
Nice build! About how much does it weigh?
The axle/springs/wheels/tires assembly is the heaviest part. Without that, I can easily lift one end of it (I'm a skinny little dude). In total, I'm guessing the total weight is around 500 lbs? One of these days I need to take it to a place where they will weigh it...
FogoFox Did you take it to "that place" yet? :)
Jeff MacDonald Not yet...I actually need to identify that place first...not really sure where that would be
FogoFox
any scrap yard would have scales and can print you a receipt. also truck stops have scales that you can use to get a weight and printout. Nice build
Even local garbage dumps
where did you get the axle, was it included in your price or was it just laying around. what should I look for when locating an axle for a project like this.
Tony Warren It's from a minivan that hit a deer. The dude who owned it was going to scrap the whole thing, so he sold me the rear axle (with springs/brackets) for $30.
Nice!! How'd u find it.
+Tony Warren Just the local classified ads...but I bet you could get a similar deal at a junkyard...
How much was that expanded metal
welds will crack and tear over time. there are special. bolts for a hitch.
killer trailer, unsafe
Can you fit a FULL 4x8 Sheet of Ply in it. I noticed that you welded the uprights on top of the frame and not the sides. So will the ply lay Flat?
Yes, a full sheet will lay flat in it. It's interesting you ask, because that was certainly one of the design criteria. Actually, the metal mesh that was welded in as the floor came in a 4X8 sheet. When we welded it in, it was just barely big enough to get it to stretch out to meet the inside edges of the frame. The upright steel is welded at the outside of the frame. So there is actually a couple inches clearance in there for a full 4X8 sheet.
Nice job but ,you'll be fixing that wire mesh in the front of the trailer with it being welded that close to the edge and no support underneath
Do you know the weigh of the trailer? Thanks!
what's the name of the lightest open trailer for a 150cc gas trike scooter that's street legal ?
say how did you center the hitch from the wheels...what spot on the wheel did you measure from?
I think you're asking how I triangulated the distance from the hitch to each wheel? Basically, the wheels had no tires on them at the time, so it was rather simple to measure from the hitch to the very forward-most point of each rim. If you have the tires installed, I think that could introduce some unwanted variation...
What is the weight of the trailer? Thanks.
540 lbs
I think it would have been better and stronger if you had welded the tongue piece on top of the three crossbars instead of cutting them and notching them. (basically build it upside down)
Very good.
why not use angle beam?
mmorales3741 Angle beam kind of sucks for building something that is supposed to be lightweight and strong. Let me explain.
From a structural perspective, the fattest part of angle beam is at the corner (the center) whereas in order to provide maximum strength (think if an I-beam) you actually want the thicker part out at the edges. Angle beam gives you more weight and less strength per foot than tubing. If you were to hold equal lengths of angle beam and tubing that weighed exactly the same amount, you would see that the angle beam is much more flexy.
Yea but your talking long distances. This is less than 8 ft. Less than the 12' stock that it comes in. I'm a structural designer and angle iron is preferred over tubung almost always. Not to mention you have much more options with angle, and you can get it in many thicknesses to deal with the strength you need. Although I think if you cap the ends of the tubing the lifespan of it is superior.
mmorales3741 Not sure why it matters. Stiffer over a long distance or stiffer over a short distance, the tube is stiffer. May I ask, as a structural designer, what are the factors that lead you to specify angle iron over tubing? Is it fabrication ease? Material availability? Cheaper per lineal foot? Habit?
In a situation where you are building something where weight is not a factor (like a building) you may well use different materials than when you are looking to find the best meeting of weight/strength/price.
Nice!!
nice green screen work
Have you ever thought of selling these
Shane Broom No. You are welcome to do it though. I just don't have the time...
600 total
Premade axle
Found it
:D
You need to pre grind all your metal before welding.
Correct. I assume you make this comment because it is difficult to tell in the video that I did actually grind the rust off the weld surfaces of those rusty shackle brackets. It's just really hard to see.
Ok cool
You're clearly a good craftsman, but I would encourage you to STOP buying made in china crap from harbor freight ! Better quality American made tools and materials will provide you and your family with much more safety, quality, and they will last you FAR longer. In addition, you'll support American workers, better environmental standards, you will not promote child labor, and most importantly you will not be supporting a government that wants to take over Taiwan and the U.S. Please consider using your right to choose, and choose AMERICAN when you can. Thanks.
big flaw he welded on the hitch that's a big NO NO, hitch must be bolted on,
Thanks for the comment. I hear others saying this and believe it to be true, but I am curious as to why. Does anyone know what advantage there is to bolting it on instead of welding?
The sheering load required to snap a bolt(s) is significantly greater then a weld.. especially if a weld has a fracture over time and / or a small airpocket in-bedded during the welding process.
earthmover666 my factory trailer has a welded tung. it's a 4' x 6'.
I welded two of my trailer hitches and carry heavy equipment on them. Never had any problems with them. This is five years later. Great video by the way.
All trailer hitch are welded