If you close the triangle from the front of the trailer to the tongue, that makes a great place to put a spare tire or tongue-mounted toolbox. (Or both). Nicely done. Oh, and bolting the front mount instead of welding it makes things way easier when it needs replaced. Grade 8 bolts and some lock nuts & you're golden. Pretty awesome to see.
I've enjoyed your build videos for this build. I'm considering building a short enclosed trailer to haul my RC aircraft around. Your method looks to have great potential! I have to agree with a specific point you made....there is definitely a great sense of satisfaction in building something that suits your needs instead of buying something that may or may not be what you wanted. Thanks for sharing!
Turned out nice. Personally, I'm REALLY not a fan of the expanded mesh floors and sides that folks over that side of the Atlantic seem to favour, but it was your project, so you're the one who got ALL the votes on how to build it (A lot of UA-cam commenters don't seem to understand that concept :D). I know the mesh helps with wind resistance at speed, but over here in the UK we can be fined pretty harshly if anything falls off our car or trailer and into the road, so having the risk that something like bags of sand might get torn on route and start emptying straight through the bottom of our trailer could become a costly problem, so having the floors and sides made out of 50% "hole" doesn't really work for us. As a nation, we also tend to use trailers a lot for shifting garden waste....... and I can assure you, trying to get a large tangled mass of long thin bramble branches out of an expanded mesh trailer is the sort of fun packed experience that even the most masochistic of people would only ever try ONCE !......... Though if you ever find yourself at a waste disposal site when a mesh trailer turns up loaded with this kind of whippy, thorn covered stuff, it's always good entertainment to hang about and watch as they quickly realise their epic mistake. :D
I'm looking into potential of building a sub 200kg trailer to tow behind an alto, so thanks for this giving some inspiration, maybe an alto axel and spring might do the trick
Excellent video .. Next time with shingles throw the top layer of the shingles from the pallet in the rear of the tow vehicle.. Easier on springs and still all done in 1 trip. Dispersing the weight/ easier on equipment.
Nice Work! I have built many utility trailers and have looked at minivan axles, I think they are a perfect solution, because the springs are long and soft and require little maintenance. I have just not ever been able to find one for free. Again great work, thanks for sharing.
I made trailer using dodge caravan axle, but the size is 4x6, mine I made enclosed trailer ,I use for luggage for long travels, pulling with minivan, and I add an extra leaf spring and shocks, I'm from mexico and use every year, I just change both bearings because I drove 5 times to my country and is around 4500 miles round trip.
I like your trailer alot, if you haven't already you SHOULD add shocks on to your design and or the sway bar. reason being...... if your load begin's to sway left and right with out shocks it will NOT stop doing it till you come to a stop, also load shift while going around a corner can and will tip the trailer over. safety first.
Great idea. On the other hand, I've put hundreds of miles over several years on this trailer with no issues whatsoever. In fact, just the other day I passed someone else on the freeway pulling a little trailer that was ALL over the road and was wagging the whole back end of their Expedition. SCARY! ! I can't imagine driving anywhere with a trailer with that kind of road manners.
im sure you've heard this all before but it needs bump stops to keep the springs from flipping up like that and maybe some air shocks or even regular shocks would help for the every now and then heavy load, I would also add angled bars from the tongue to the outer frame for extra strength but you did a great job on this regardless :D
If you have not done so, why not get some jeep Cherokee rear bump stops (basically a rubber block with a plate that has 2 mounting holes), and mount them to the frame where the axle is directly below. This will help in situations where you overload the springs. Or with the springs appearing to be a standard 2.5" leaf pack, just build what is known as a "bastard pack".
Is there enough room under there to toss in a couple of shocks? Maybe some short ones mounted one forward and one backwards on the axle - just something to give some damping to the ride? I would at least toss a couple of bumpstops in there. That inverted leaf spring looked pretty scary! There's loads of aftermarket ones, but I usually just grab old bumpstops from the junk yard and weld up a little pillar to sit them on if needed.
+WheeliePete Yep - I might actually do some messing around with shocks. Those soft leaf springs are definitely made to be run with shocks. And the bumpstops would be a welcome addition (and safety feature) as well.
If you ever do it again . Would you consider videoing the welding of the axle and the building process . I really want to do one like this . I am almost done with my roof rack after just starting to learn welding . I am only doing some finishing touches on it . The fabricator did the meat and potatoes of the roof rack basket . Thanks for any info or tips- leads you may have for something like this . God Bless
I actually didn't weld anything onto the axle. The axle is attached to the leaf springs using the original bolts/brackets that came from the minivan. I may be misunderstanding your question though?
Just curious.. why didn't you use a shock? Maybe even an air shock setup would be cool, if you were planning on carrying a heavier load? The axle already had the shock mounts, right?
The top model Harbor freight trailer can take 1700lbs and you say 1000lbs is the limit for your trailer with a car axle? Just get heavier springs and you will be fine.
I guess the weight capacity is the limit, not the length. In other words, you can make it any length, but it would still only carry the same load in terms of weight.
Nice job and your correct about dodge 👍 One question about your build if you don't mind. I noticed you have an open bottom I like the idea but if it rains or the snow melts do your loads get very dirty and wet or do the fenders keep it to a minimum. If you had to do it again would you close the bottom or leave as is ? Thanks for your time
If your load needs to stay dry, and if your driving where it's wet, definitely put a solid floor in it. The fenders help against splashing, but the mist thrown up by the tow vehicle will get everything wet. I might use boards if I had to do it over again.
Did you have to register your trailer as I did not see a plate on the rear side of it... difrent state laws is why I'm asking... great vid btw.. thanks in advance
NICE..... I appreciate what you've done here.... I need to build a small equipment trailer to haul around a 500 lbs pipe bender and I found a 4X6 trailer.... The suspension is on leaf springs and I kind a wish I could add shocks to it so it doesn't beat up my equipment... Any ideas? Did you hit any trailer builder forums?
yes. but I'm not sure that wouldn't put me in a position where I'd be in danger of overloading the weight rating on the axle. Plus, this way, the springs are nice and soft for when I carry light loads...It kind of floats down the road instead of chattering and putting a beating on whatever I'm carrying.
I would like to build my own trailer. But in my state of Pennsylvania they make it so DIFFICULT! and time consuming to do your better off going and buy one from a dealer
Might not use expanded steel for the floor next time. It's expensive, can break with a point load, hard to paint, etc. I think I'd just use wood boards next time.
I used a Miller 175 wire freed welder (220 volts), a cheap angle grinder with a abrasive cutoff disc, a Ryobi 14" chop saw, and various clamps, tape measure, pens, etc.
how long is the tongue to the start of the box ? seems a little long to me,i am trying to turn a boat trailer into a atv/scrap trailer please message me back an is there a reason ?
+skulledmonte84 It is abnormally long....for two reasons: 1) I can always cut it shorter if I want 2) This way I can turn the car a full 90 degrees from the trailer without having the trailer hit the corner of the car. This is sometimes helpful for maneuvering.
Way over thought.. axle spring set up trailer sets to high to much movement spring wise to squirly, side to side , coupler is cheap as cheap can get ,they have failed many times. Do your self a favor.,Get yourself a bulldog .. and cut that spring axle set up off . Tractor supply will have a better set up for what you really need and keep a larger wheel and tire size. Location for axle is on a single axle is length of trailer feet wise will be inches off center toward back of trailer. Example a 10 foot trailer the axle would be moved 10 inches back off center. A 6ft trailer would be 6in back off center.. got to say.. clean prefab on frame and great skills .45% cuts look great on tubing. The tounge set up personally did not like we do a tri and go under the frame so there wont be no notching on your cross runners or supports but thats just me.. nice videos thanks
....one of the best... I know it's a claim that people dispute, but I only meant that Dodge builds (for example) equipment that is designed to go for a revs of thousands of miles with no maintenance, where other manufacturers (like Harbor freight, for example) design their stuff to require much more frequent maintenance, and far lower overall mileage.
If you close the triangle from the front of the trailer to the tongue, that makes a great place to put a spare tire or tongue-mounted toolbox. (Or both). Nicely done.
Oh, and bolting the front mount instead of welding it makes things way easier when it needs replaced. Grade 8 bolts and some lock nuts & you're golden.
Pretty awesome to see.
A snow plow hit the hitch a couple years back while it was parked and i did end up cutting off the old hitch and bolting a new one on. :)
I've enjoyed your build videos for this build. I'm considering building a short enclosed trailer to haul my RC aircraft around. Your method looks to have great potential! I have to agree with a specific point you made....there is definitely a great sense of satisfaction in building something that suits your needs instead of buying something that may or may not be what you wanted. Thanks for sharing!
Turned out nice. Personally, I'm REALLY not a fan of the expanded mesh floors and sides that folks over that side of the Atlantic seem to favour, but it was your project, so you're the one who got ALL the votes on how to build it (A lot of UA-cam commenters don't seem to understand that concept :D).
I know the mesh helps with wind resistance at speed, but over here in the UK we can be fined pretty harshly if anything falls off our car or trailer and into the road, so having the risk that something like bags of sand might get torn on route and start emptying straight through the bottom of our trailer could become a costly problem, so having the floors and sides made out of 50% "hole" doesn't really work for us.
As a nation, we also tend to use trailers a lot for shifting garden waste....... and I can assure you, trying to get a large tangled mass of long thin bramble branches out of an expanded mesh trailer is the sort of fun packed experience that even the most masochistic of people would only ever try ONCE !......... Though if you ever find yourself at a waste disposal site when a mesh trailer turns up loaded with this kind of whippy, thorn covered stuff, it's always good entertainment to hang about and watch as they quickly realise their epic mistake. :D
I'm looking into potential of building a sub 200kg trailer to tow behind an alto, so thanks for this giving some inspiration, maybe an alto axel and spring might do the trick
Excellent video .. Next time with shingles throw the top layer of the shingles from the pallet in the rear of the tow vehicle.. Easier on springs and still all done in 1 trip. Dispersing the weight/ easier on equipment.
Nice Work! I have built many utility trailers and have looked at minivan axles, I think they are a perfect solution, because the springs are long and soft and require little maintenance. I have just not ever been able to find one for free. Again great work, thanks for sharing.
Now i'm on the look out for free minivan axle!
Nice job. I got a lot of ideas for my own project from watching your videos. Thanks for posting.
Time for me to stop modding Harbor freight trailers and do one like yours. Great build.
Wow I am late to the party. Still I watched and enjoyed all 3 videos. And good job answering all the questions. 👍
Nice to see it on the road. Good job
I made trailer using dodge caravan axle, but the size is 4x6, mine I made enclosed trailer ,I use for luggage for long travels, pulling with minivan, and I add an extra leaf spring and shocks, I'm from mexico and use every year, I just change both bearings because I drove 5 times to my country and is around 4500 miles round trip.
I like your trailer alot, if you haven't already you SHOULD add shocks on to your design and or the sway bar. reason being...... if your load begin's to sway left and right with out shocks it will NOT stop doing it till you come to a stop, also load shift while going around a corner can and will tip the trailer over. safety first.
Great idea. On the other hand, I've put hundreds of miles over several years on this trailer with no issues whatsoever. In fact, just the other day I passed someone else on the freeway pulling a little trailer that was ALL over the road and was wagging the whole back end of their Expedition. SCARY! ! I can't imagine driving anywhere with a trailer with that kind of road manners.
im sure you've heard this all before but it needs bump stops to keep the springs from flipping up like that and maybe some air shocks or even regular shocks would help for the every now and then heavy load, I would also add angled bars from the tongue to the outer frame for extra strength but you did a great job on this regardless :D
If you have not done so, why not get some jeep Cherokee rear bump stops (basically a rubber block with a plate that has 2 mounting holes), and mount them to the frame where the axle is directly below. This will help in situations where you overload the springs.
Or with the springs appearing to be a standard 2.5" leaf pack, just build what is known as a "bastard pack".
Yep. that's a great suggestion.
Nice job, nice vid, very thoughtfully done.
Is there enough room under there to toss in a couple of shocks? Maybe some short ones mounted one forward and one backwards on the axle - just something to give some damping to the ride? I would at least toss a couple of bumpstops in there. That inverted leaf spring looked pretty scary! There's loads of aftermarket ones, but I usually just grab old bumpstops from the junk yard and weld up a little pillar to sit them on if needed.
+WheeliePete Yep - I might actually do some messing around with shocks. Those soft leaf springs are definitely made to be run with shocks. And the bumpstops would be a welcome addition (and safety feature) as well.
.... friction shocks would be easy to fit under there ;)
I'd go to the junkyard and get some extra leaf springs from something and add to that single spring. that will stiffen up that axle.
For sure. That would transfer the weak point to the axle. I kind of liked having the soft spring.
if i could recomend a strait axel for a replace ment there a little tougher than that hex axel
Great project!
Are the caravan lug pattern 5x4.5 as well? Airbags or overloads might be nice if you find yourself carrying heavy loads again.
Thanks for the inspiración to built it and sharing
Good day from Ontario. Boy interesting video. Good idea with spare tire, or u might have to carry a extra spare. Thanks nice trailer, I like the rims.
Great work! Thank you for sharing!
If you ever do it again . Would you consider videoing the welding of the axle and the building process . I really want to do one like this . I am almost done with my roof rack after just starting to learn welding . I am only doing some finishing touches on it . The fabricator did the meat and potatoes of the roof rack basket . Thanks for any info or tips- leads you may have for something like this . God Bless
I actually didn't weld anything onto the axle. The axle is attached to the leaf springs using the original bolts/brackets that came from the minivan. I may be misunderstanding your question though?
Very good job! Basically it's a Dodge Caravan and a half :))
Just curious.. why didn't you use a shock? Maybe even an air shock setup would be cool, if you were planning on carrying a heavier load? The axle already had the shock mounts, right?
It was always in the plans, but never go a round tuit...
Great work. Talented
"...Best manufacturers in the world" is something that should never be said about Dodge lol.
The top model Harbor freight trailer can take 1700lbs and you say 1000lbs is the limit for your trailer with a car axle? Just get heavier springs and you will be fine.
How long of a trailer can you build using this axle set up? Safely...
I guess the weight capacity is the limit, not the length. In other words, you can make it any length, but it would still only carry the same load in terms of weight.
Thanks for sharing and very helpful information.
Nice job and your correct about dodge 👍 One question about your build if you don't mind. I noticed you have an open bottom I like the idea but if it rains or the snow melts do your loads get very dirty and wet or do the fenders keep it to a minimum. If you had to do it again would you close the bottom or leave as is ? Thanks for your time
If your load needs to stay dry, and if your driving where it's wet, definitely put a solid floor in it. The fenders help against splashing, but the mist thrown up by the tow vehicle will get everything wet.
I might use boards if I had to do it over again.
great video, would adding a shock work out?
For sure would be a good move. I just never got around to it...
Very neat project and video. Good job.
hey I'm a sixteen year old kid from California and I was wondering about how much did u spend on all the metal used to build the frame
Trying to recall now off the top of my head...was it something like $150? I think I mention the cost breakdown in the part 1 video.
Excelente video, justamente es el remolque que necesito construir!, Gracias por aportar sus ideas, le dí like y me suscribí también a su Canal.
Muchisimas gracias amigo! Toda suerte con su fabricacion!
great video and explanations
Did you have to register your trailer as I did not see a plate on the rear side of it... difrent state laws is why I'm asking... great vid btw.. thanks in advance
Utah does not require (or at least at the time) trailers under 600 pounds (if I recall correctly) to be registered or plated.
NICE..... I appreciate what you've done here.... I need to build a small equipment trailer to haul around a 500 lbs pipe bender and I found a 4X6 trailer.... The suspension is on leaf springs and I kind a wish I could add shocks to it so it doesn't beat up my equipment... Any ideas? Did you hit any trailer builder forums?
.... build friction shocks ;)
Mr Mr add some leafs or get some eBay air ride bags.
great video
Excellente réalisation ! bravo ! je vais essayer de faire la même !!!
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
I didn't notice a license plate. Did you have to register it with DMV & if so, what was the process like?
State laws vary. In Utah, no registration is required for lightweight trailers. So it is not registered.
It needs stronger leaf springs ? Maybe at the junkyard for 10 dollars ?
I got a utility trailer and me and my dad set up a tow rule on just on our truck to pull
Good work
have you though of adding leafs to the springs???
yes. but I'm not sure that wouldn't put me in a position where I'd be in danger of overloading the weight rating on the axle. Plus, this way, the springs are nice and soft for when I carry light loads...It kind of floats down the road instead of chattering and putting a beating on whatever I'm carrying.
Very nice!
I would like to build my own trailer. But in my state of Pennsylvania they make it so DIFFICULT! and time consuming to do your better off going and buy one from a dealer
how to join trailer to the car?
Is there anything you'd have done differently? Thanks.
Might not use expanded steel for the floor next time. It's expensive, can break with a point load, hard to paint, etc. I think I'd just use wood boards next time.
Very nice trailer but instead of a Dodge Caravan rear axle I would use a trailer axle with electric brakes.
Definitely would result in a good trailer build, just slightly more expensive.
Great work!
could you please give a brief description of the equipment used for this build?
I used a Miller 175 wire freed welder (220 volts), a cheap angle grinder with a abrasive cutoff disc, a Ryobi 14" chop saw, and various clamps, tape measure, pens, etc.
I want to get into welding is tac welding easy
subbed FYI!! love the videos! ok I'm Utah as well
Utah?
Yep :)
How did you register it at the dnv
Not required for lightweight trailers in Utah
great build
Maybe have more leaf springs so u dont fuck up the trailer
how long is the tongue to the start of the box ? seems a little long to me,i am trying to turn a boat trailer into a atv/scrap trailer please message me back an is there a reason ?
+skulledmonte84 It is abnormally long....for two reasons:
1) I can always cut it shorter if I want
2) This way I can turn the car a full 90 degrees from the trailer without having the trailer hit the corner of the car. This is sometimes helpful for maneuvering.
Way over thought.. axle spring set up trailer sets to high to much movement spring wise to squirly, side to side , coupler is cheap as cheap can get ,they have failed many times. Do your self a favor.,Get yourself a bulldog .. and cut that spring axle set up off . Tractor supply will have a better set up for what you really need and keep a larger wheel and tire size. Location for axle is on a single axle is length of trailer feet wise will be inches off center toward back of trailer. Example a 10 foot trailer the axle would be moved 10 inches back off center. A 6ft trailer would be 6in back off center.. got to say.. clean prefab on frame and great skills .45% cuts look great on tubing. The tounge set up personally did not like we do a tri and go under the frame so there wont be no notching on your cross runners or supports but thats just me.. nice videos thanks
its leaf ..not spring ..thats how we call it here
Waooooooow niec work 👍🏾
I thought you might live in Utah. confirmed??
Yep
Dodge know NO NO 🤔🤔🤔
Dodge, best in the world, hahahahahhaaaaa
....one of the best...
I know it's a claim that people dispute, but I only meant that Dodge builds (for example) equipment that is designed to go for a revs of thousands of miles with no maintenance, where other manufacturers (like Harbor freight, for example) design their stuff to require much more frequent maintenance, and far lower overall mileage.