Just got my 2500 with 68rfe back from the dealer with fresh rebuilt tranny. Work completed under power train warranty, truck has 54k on it. Valve body was hung up and burnt some clutches. Overhauled tranny with all new clutches and seals!
Does the new FCA recall on these transmission in which they change the valve body or the separation plate, does that fix some of the line pressure issues? Heard it was from heat and pressure, the reason for recall
I have a 4th gen 68RFE with 233k and have no known issues with it. I've been performing more of my own maintenance ever since I lost my business during covid to save money. On the stock valve body, I noticed what looks to be either mold casting lines that looks like cracks or possibly there's been some warping that has caused actual cracks. I never towed much while having my business. If there's a way to include a picture I will. I'd like to get an option out there if these are cracks or not, basically if this looks normal.
My truck cycles through the gears but i keep getting a "torque converter clutch solenoid open" code even after changing my solenoid pack. Rpms are high and torque is liw
For f's sake, the aftermarket should not have to do this. I'm glad they do, but engineers within the powertrain dept. at FCA should friggin walk out until the bean counters allocate the funds to develop a new and better transmission.
I have 240k on mine and do regular flushes; still running strong, temps are steady, and no slipping. Not here to debate that topic, it's a dead horse IMO as everyone has an opinion on "to flush or not to flush". I use Castrol AT4+ Full Synthetic and change the filters regularly also. Once I moved to the Castrol, it was like driving a new vehicle. I also have an EFILive with the trans tune, but I don't tear up my vehicles, although I do "work" them. The people I have known who have had issues are the ones who don't know how to maintain their vehicles then wonder why things break.
Clint is full of **it as always. this particular valvebody has a plate that retains all those little pistons. it bends and breaks completely causing the pistons to leak. thus leaking main line pressure causing transmission failure. the new revised plate is what makes the 68 rfe live. but they won't tell you that. 160 psi under max load is plenty. any more will cause over heating and premature component wear. everything they mentioned is already done by the computer. i can debunk every word of this preface, but it would take longer than it. for example, there is no such thing as closed loop line pressure system. closed loop refers to a computer. throttle pressure dictates line pressure. approx 65 to 160. buyer beware
Mine has code p8071, changed filters and pressure sensor didn't help. Runs great until engine light comes on then starts slipping. When engine light goes off transmission works flawlessly. Any ideas?
@@mannyg85 I ended up having it completely rebuilt for $6k runs great. I believe if I had had just changed my valve body and solenoid in the beginning I would have been fine. I drove around 15,000 miles with codes and in limp mode though and smoked my clutches.
Proper ring and pinion ratio is all it needs. The factory should never have shipped these with 3.42:1 gears. I switched my 3.42:1 gears to 4.10:1 using stock tires and the transmission temps plummeted 30˚F and all transmission noises went away. No more convertor grinding noise from excessive slipping under load. My fuel economy actually went up 20% which was a shock. That was because the truck accelerates better with less throttle. Less convertor slippage and more power to the ground now.
@@williamtarpley4025 My example was driving empty, not towing. There is more benefit from a taller ration than a short ratio. The Cummins, coupled to a 68RFE, with a short axle ratio is a bad combination. The 68RFE is not designed for low rpm high torque applications. It was designed as for use with a gasoline engine.
ATS is the worst place to by a transmission in less than two years I had to bring it back 7 time's and I'm having more problems in less than 32000 miles!!!!!!!
This is a well crafted sales pitch. Nothing more, nothing less.
Why you say that I just don't know?
Do you have to do a quick relearn process with a scan tool after install?
Just got my 2500 with 68rfe back from the dealer with fresh rebuilt tranny. Work completed under power train warranty, truck has 54k on it. Valve body was hung up and burnt some clutches. Overhauled tranny with all new clutches and seals!
Does the new FCA recall on these transmission in which they change the valve body or the separation plate, does that fix some of the line pressure issues? Heard it was from heat and pressure, the reason for recall
But how does it work with the TCM if your using a Smarty or a re-flash with a trans tune?!
I have a 4th gen 68RFE with 233k and have no known issues with it. I've been performing more of my own maintenance ever since I lost my business during covid to save money. On the stock valve body, I noticed what looks to be either mold casting lines that looks like cracks or possibly there's been some warping that has caused actual cracks. I never towed much while having my business. If there's a way to include a picture I will. I'd like to get an option out there if these are cracks or not, basically if this looks normal.
My truck cycles through the gears but i keep getting a "torque converter clutch solenoid open" code even after changing my solenoid pack. Rpms are high and torque is liw
is it ANY better in the 2021+ models?
Will it work for the 66ref?
when did they switch from plastic pistons to metal, or is this ats's upgraded pistons? is it on the newer 68's?
From a guy dealer tech who deals this everyday. They haven’t changed anything
For f's sake, the aftermarket should not have to do this. I'm glad they do, but engineers within the powertrain dept. at FCA should friggin walk out until the bean counters allocate the funds to develop a new and better transmission.
I need trans. Work 2014 89k mi.but I’m in Hawaii help I need
Why doesn’t FCA just raise the line pressure in the first place? Their has to be some engineering reason why they haven’t or don’t do that
It’s called warranty lol
Still pushing the copilot hard. That alone has killed 100s of trans over the years. Speaking of low quality components,cough cough.
Right, just tune the fuckin thing the right way. Hell with that piggyback bullshit.
What transmission fluid do you recommend for this transmission?
Victor hobson mopar only
I have 240k on mine and do regular flushes; still running strong, temps are steady, and no slipping. Not here to debate that topic, it's a dead horse IMO as everyone has an opinion on "to flush or not to flush". I use Castrol AT4+ Full Synthetic and change the filters regularly also. Once I moved to the Castrol, it was like driving a new vehicle. I also have an EFILive with the trans tune, but I don't tear up my vehicles, although I do "work" them.
The people I have known who have had issues are the ones who don't know how to maintain their vehicles then wonder why things break.
Clint is full of **it as always. this particular valvebody has a plate that retains all those little pistons. it bends and breaks completely causing the pistons to leak. thus leaking main line pressure causing transmission failure. the new revised plate is what makes the 68 rfe live. but they won't tell you that. 160 psi under max load is plenty. any more will cause over heating and premature component wear. everything they mentioned is already done by the computer. i can debunk every word of this preface, but it would take longer than it. for example, there is no such thing as closed loop line pressure system. closed loop refers to a computer. throttle pressure dictates line pressure. approx 65 to 160. buyer beware
Yup very good at scaring people into buying their shit
Mine has code p8071, changed filters and pressure sensor didn't help. Runs great until engine light comes on then starts slipping. When engine light goes off transmission works flawlessly. Any ideas?
what new revised plate?
@@gogogo1064 did you get it fixed? Mine just started doing the same thing a couple days ago.
@@mannyg85 I ended up having it completely rebuilt for $6k runs great. I believe if I had had just changed my valve body and solenoid in the beginning I would have been fine. I drove around 15,000 miles with codes and in limp mode though and smoked my clutches.
Can you just buy a fully completed transmission? Can I just trade mine in?
Yes we have crate transmissions available, which you would trade your transmission is as a core.
Proper ring and pinion ratio is all it needs. The factory should never have shipped these with 3.42:1 gears. I switched my 3.42:1 gears to 4.10:1 using stock tires and the transmission temps plummeted 30˚F and all transmission noises went away. No more convertor grinding noise from excessive slipping under load. My fuel economy actually went up 20% which was a shock. That was because the truck accelerates better with less throttle. Less convertor slippage and more power to the ground now.
if you pull trailers daily you would use a 4 .10 but if not you can use which ever gear sets that works best for you
@@williamtarpley4025 My example was driving empty, not towing. There is more benefit from a taller ration than a short ratio. The Cummins, coupled to a 68RFE, with a short axle ratio is a bad combination. The 68RFE is not designed for low rpm high torque applications. It was designed as for use with a gasoline engine.
What did switching to the 4.10 cost you?
@@jhonnymendoza5323 $1100 installed
@@briangc1972
Where u have done that
Got 14 ram 3500 srw.
ATS is the worst place to by a transmission in less than two years I had to bring it back 7 time's and I'm having more problems in less than 32000 miles!!!!!!!