Buying cheap vs expensive Whetstones Q&A part 1
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2024
- Everything you need to know about sharpening whetstones.
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Suehiro bur.re/suehiro
Best splash-n-go whetstones naniwa pro 800 & 3000 bur.re/naniwa
Some years ago you essentially taught me to sharpen. I'm now 10 months into starting a sharpening business. I just got a deal with my 3rd restaurant where I go twice a month and sharpen a couple dozen knives. I'm on pace to do nearly 1,000 knives this year. At $8-14 per knife and $10-20 for repairs it's really been great. All freehand, period. 90% kitchen knives. I mainly am using Suehiro stones up to 1,000 grit and Shapton Glass for polishing. I also use an Atoma 140 for repairs! Thank you!!!!!
How do you charge? I'm looking into doing something similar. thanks!
Well done bud!
Hello Ryky,
All yours video are still enriching ! Thanks for your job and your humility...
Benjamin
just doing my best
Really glad to see you delivering the in-depth sharpening information once again. It's what brought me to your channel in the first place -- my first-ever youtube sub. I know there's a risk of it becoming repetitive from time to time but you do a very nice job of keeping it fresh and interesting. Thank you, Ryky.
it's good to bring back "old" content for fresh viewers.
Great video, "I've sharpened knives on bricks and got very good results" especially resonated with me. I've been 100 miles from nowhere and in desperation sharpened tools/knives with concrete and piece of shale. I had laughs and ridicule but after immediate results on a cable knife everybody shut up and our cutters and knives worked fine for the next 36 hrs lol. Also just some experimentation at the river I could create a nice flat with 2 natural stones fairly easily.
Hey, newbie here i just ordered a king kds 1000/6000 after this video then your older ones featuring it , I was going to just get a 1000, I hope I won't be disappointed. (I'm worried I will have been better off learning on the basic 1000 having two fresh sides, but amazon free shipping made the kds only 10$ more after being over 25$). I don't have any particularly good blades, but I have some inexpensive kitchen knives and a sword, and a bunch of pocket knives. (I'm really here for test cutting with a sword). I've also been watching outdoor55 and have also had a pretty good experience sharpening my knives on an old 5$ cheapo stone (red box with a tiger), so am super stoked to try out a premium budget stone. !! Great channel for hobby interest! Thanks!
My absolute favorite wet stone in a King Neo 800 firm, fast, splash and go. Strop straight off this stone will cut paper towel easily. Nothing replaces hours spent on the stones.
I think for folks who are considering hand grinding their knives, an IM 313 with a medium crystolon and india and then an oilstone is better than any other set of synthetic stones (the key being the crystolon stone - it's the only coarse stone that works as well as....well, it does). The crystolon needs to be reasonably new and still friable, and the oil carries the big particles away from the stone better than waterstones and it retains cutting power far more uniformly than diamond plates.
The diamond plates do well in the middle (and the atoma hold up the best and are the most uniform of those with reasonable cost).
As far as oil contamination, if a reasonable effort is made to remove the oil after grinding, and it's not wanted on diamonds (because they'll be use directly before waterstones on other knives), I've not had any real issues with contamination.
The diamond plates (and cost) depends on brand. I've worn duosharps to very slow cutting pretty quickly. The monocrystalline $25+ chinese-made plates seem to last about the same length. All of those types have diamonds arranged nearly random in electroplate and the big diamonds get pulled off. Atomas have diamonds stacked in little piles that look like they're glued together and those piles don't come loose like the big particles get pulled off of DMTs, etc, quickly. Or to summarize it more accurately, it's less about the price of the diamond stones and more about how the diamonds are affixed to them and what type of diamonds are affixed.
Folks who buy knife-branded diamond stones should ask them a question: why would a knife brand distribute diamond stones? Would they do it more cheaply (per unit of quality) than someone who sells whetstones only? Probably not. Would anyone buy an atoma knife? or DMT? I doubt it.
Ryky, Please explore wide bevel construction japanese knives further where kasumi and polish is a factor. Traditional Japanese knives with defined shinogi lines are designed with the sharpener in mind so we can keep our knives thin and performing better. This tradition is starting to die out because of a surge in western influenced knives that cater to ignorant knife users.
It would help us as viewers, as well as yourself, have a better understanding of the bigger picture. Ultimately helping us navigate a large part of the knife market and stone application that’s being missed.
For instance: softer stones such as king, suehiro, etc are better for creating these finishes, regardless of rockwell hardness. But the fact of the matter is, is a lot of your viewers will continue sharpening without ever considering any of these factors unless their shown by an authority such as yourself. I see some knives on your magnet strips that will eventually need thinning so no excuses! hehe 😜 In no way is this a criticism, it’s more so encouragement because I’ve been following you since the beginning and I want you to see you grow.
Seth Wright Good note on that. There aren’t many videos that has a tutorial on thinning knifes or having a wide bevel one the edge so that the polish on the bevel can be seen easily. Please make a video of this !
He has but the problem is you can show the process but not the result. Single bevel knives when properly sharpened are always being thinned, so the difference to the eye is non existent. It would take a couple years of sharpening in a before and after to show the results. I actually sharpen for a Japanese restaurant and I've spoken to the sushi chefs about their sharpening. They are always working the shinogi line so it's never a "let me thin this out" situation. Thinning a standard kitchen knife also is and should be a rare process if you maintain a good edge. Modern steel is very hard and it takes a long time to wear to needing to be thinned.
Hello Burrfection, I enjoy your channel on the metals and stones. I'm an old man who has only used an oil stone for my pocket knives and am still trying to learn how and about these new ways to sharpen and take care of my steels. I recently started cooking and using great steel for health reasons. I know I'll learn more with your guidance watching your videos. Not sure about the cost of some stones and steels available I am on a limited budget (disabled Vet) so I'll try on the cheaper stuff for now. Thank you for your time and experience.
Ray A.
p.s.
Great job!!
always buy within your means. just get the best you can afford.
@@Burrfection will do, they are so beautiful though...lol
Tks for the heads up Ryky, much appreciated, will get the Naniwa pro 3000 and the leather stop, the edges now are pretty good, but not as smooth/clean as I would like
Getting fussy now! :)
Thank you for your reply!
Regards,
Gary (au)
Hey Ryky, I would love to see you sharpen some of your harder steel knives, like a super blue or zdp189. Maybe go over some of the differences between them and the vg10 or 52100 on your Kramer.
remember harder is NOT the only important property of a knife. Generally only beginners choose a steel based on hardness as the primary reason, but it certainly IS am important part of the equation.
Hardness alone is a poor reason to choose a knife steel. Toughness, ductility, abrasion resistance, edge taking ability, tactile feedback, (corrosion resistance for some people).
And remember design of the knife matters it is better to get a great german steel knife than a crummy chinese knife of faux steel and made by a mediocre to poor knife maker.
But yes, VG10 and 52100 are great steels but they have different end users
@@hrhamada1982
Thank you, much appreciated
..........Gary
.........Au
Watching this before i buy my very first whetstones on your website :)
Hi Ryky,
I wonder how you feel about the quality of edge attainable by using angle guided systems. I have been using the Edge Pro system, it works very well and does enable me to get a satisfactory sharpness, which I was very happy with until I sharpened my first knife on whetstones, the edge I achieved was much sharper (even if I did scratch the hell out of the knife in the process!). I remember you going through some cheaper sharpening aids but I’d love to see how you feel about the edge pro.
Thanks for the continued effort
Much love
Gaz
Check out the Trend diamond stones, too. That's what I use to sharpen my woodworking tools, and they work great. They are very high quality, too.
I sure appreciate your content really excellent information. My Atoma is almost flat but I have some OCD and when checked with my finest machined strait edge I realize that it is close but not quite.
don't be a pixel peeper. just use it
Wow, that Kramer Damascus is fantastic! I am sure any of your viewers would appreciate that.
Great video, great service.
Keep up the good work.
Edit: what's the best value stone for a mirror polish?
look at the bur.re/ky8000
I have all Naniwa pro series (x2), Naniwa Diamond Series, and many other simultaneous Whetstones like Soheiro. Recently I got doble sided Kasumi(s) as gifts and they are beyond my expectations. The feel of sharpening with them is like making love on silks. But I’m not a pro, so maybe I’m just tripping.
just have fun
silicon carbide and glass or a new naiwa type stone type flattener made by sharpening supplies is supposed to be good and have 2 sides to keep a stone sooth or a little more caurse which is up to you a great by i may get is it is good size and not expensive,
Hello Ryky. Love your videos. Quick question: what would you choose between a cerax 1000 and a shapton glass 1000, if both were the same price? Thanks.
Question: Ryky, Fairly new to hand sharpening and I've learned an incredible amount from you. I've been concentrating on my cooking knives, but I have several hunting/folding knives to sharpen. Can you give me a few stone recommendations (or point me to a video) for those types of knives? I have a Kerye 400 that works pretty well for repairing and sharpening. In that Kerye set, I use the 1000 also and it doesn't seem to work very well and it's probably me. I also have 2 Choseras, an 800 and 3000. I was thinking a 1000 and a 3000, but if you have a better recommendation, that's good too. Not really on a budget so higher prices are fine. Thanks for the assist.
Hi Ryky. Are you planning to take a look at the Carter-Stanley Nano-Hone sharpening equipment? Would be interesting to see.
they don't give out reviewer samples, but if Carter is willing to put his name on it, it will be superb
hey ryky, i know you have tried all the sharpening stones under the sun, but have you tried the norton ascent ceramic stone yet? i saw it a couple weeks ago on sharpening supplies, its new. im dyin to find anyone that can give a review of one and i have not got any info on them yet. im gonna get a ceramic stone i just dont know which one yet, there are many to choose from. love your videos
I will break the rules and ask a non-whetstone question. When it comes to strops, is their an effective difference between leather on a flat plate (like the shell cordovan I just got from you) as opposed to a razor strop that looks more like a long belt? Thanks for the time.
A long belt will create more heat and friction, doing a quicker job than a short piece of leather
I may be wrong, but wouldn't be easier to roll the edge on a belt?
Finally. This has been plaguing me ever since I started using Japanese water stones. When sanding wood, making huge jumps between grits is self-defeating. Of course, grabbing all the grits you need from coarsest to finer is pretty inexpensive. With Japanese water stones I see combo stones with 1000 grit to 6000 grit or some other wide gap between the grits. Is this really a good jump between grits for water stones? In other words, what's a good progression of stone grits from cleaning up a very dull edge to final polishing? Can you also give another refresher on stones for "grinding" versus those for polishing?
The dilemma of the Togishi. I have an arsenal of stones. Having all the grit ranges helps most by not wearing your stones out so quickly.
I'll put it this way. When you take a blade to a course stone, you just made a File. Now you're going to File down your fine stone with your new File. The extra grit ranges prevent that, and save elbow grease.
I can do a Sword with a Binsueido, Kaiseido, Uchigumori and Hazuya/Jizuya. But do I want to work that hard, and burn my stones up in the process. That Uchigumori costs about $600-$800. The stones in the grit ranges between Binsueido and Kaiseido are only about $50-$80 each, use them to save yourself the effort.
Now I am talking professional Sword stones. There are similar stones in the knife world. That are just as affordable in the intermediate grit ranges.
@@uncleouch9795 Thank you Uncle Ouch. The biggest eye opener, besides the variety of stones, is the upper price range for premium stones. My jaw dropped. If you got the cash some of these stones look like they'll last you forever.
How do you thin a knife and in what situation would you thin a knife? Or is it mostly personal preference. Appreciate your videos, it has been of great help, cheers!
According to Murray Carter thinning should be part of regular sharpening routine. I thinned my cheaper knives to improve their performance previously, but his video motivated me to try thinning a well finished high end knife I have. The performance difference after thinning was huge because previously the knife had a lot of friction above the edge and now glides through smoothly. It is super important for a knife's performance. For german type knives, their grind is usually thicker than necessary. For japanese knives, they have a hollow grind due to big grinding wheel they use. In both cases out of the box performance is sub optimal.
Engin öztürk not too sure if I'm thinning properly or if it's the knife's fault. I have parts of the knife that seems to be a little caved inward to be thinned out properly, the inconsistent makes for a very ugly knife haha. Thanks for tinge reply anyways! Cheers
Hey Ryky, I commented on an older video of yours about the King whetstones, basically, I was wondering if it's worth upgrading from the KW-65 to the KDS? I already own the KW-65 and to be honest for the use I give to the knives, I think it's very good, only complaint has been that the 1k side wears quite fast if trying to fix an old/hard-steel knife which requires me to flatten after sharpening if the knife was in bad condition, but for this situation, I have already purchased a more coarse 250 stone and just use the 1K for creating the burr and stropping and use the 250 to fix damaged edges and create new bevels.
Ricky ... which one do you think is better or tell me in what order do you prefer .... naniwa, shampton glass or miyabi ..... thanks
Great work, thank you 🙏
I'm new to hand sharpening, everything I'm seeing is kitchen knife recommended.. I wanna get a King KDS 1000/6000 combo stone.. But my cutlery are primarily Survival/ Bushcraft/ Hunting knives and a few tomahawks.. Will the KDS work for my needs or do I need something different? I currently use an OG Worksharp belt sharpening system which works great, but I wanna branch out and broaden my horizons.. I'd like to be able to say, yup I did that, that's my edge.. That sense of accomplishment..
what about these venev considered the miracle of diamond bonded whetstones, i do not like diamond plates once usinf venev, no comparison expensive but the 2mm last for so long i have not yet in a year knapped them
Great videos, so much information in all of them. My question maybe stupid but I'm Soo new to this I don't even have a whetstone yet. Will these sharpening techniques work with other types of knives? Meaning, pocket knives, folding knives, hunting knives etc. Because other knives have different hardnesses, shape, and profiles.
Yes, pocket knives and folders can be sharpened the same way on the same stones. The only issue you would have is if any of your blades are recurves. I think you need a rounded stone for recurves.
just make adjustments accordingly. you'll develop your own style and just be flexible and don't lock yourself into specific way of doing something
Thank you Ryky,
Just a question I am getting confused.
To keep my Japanese knives sharp for kitchen use.
Should I purchase Atoma 1200 diamond plate then use a 1000 grit waterstone?
Will these two stones give me the best option for keeping my knives edge sharp?
Hello I am a chef and I have a very cheap pebel stone I'm looking to buy 1 decent stone, from what I can tell you recommend just buying a 1000 grit for chefs, please tell me what stone you recommend
Great video Ryky. Two years agoI listened to your advice and got the cerax 1000, love it. Now I want to take the next step and get the Rika 5000. However, getting them in the UK would cost me about 100 usd for the version without the base. Would the rika 5000 still be worth it at this price point? Thanks.
wow. that's some serious shipping cost or import taxes. i think you can get it much less bur.re/suehiro
Hi Ryky,
I needed some advice from you. I am a culinary arts student studying in India, I use a WÜSTHOF Classic 8 inch and a Sabatier 6 inch utility knife. I have been looking to buy a good set of whetstones for the maintenance of the the knives but sadly, I haven't been able to find any good stones in India. Since I have some family living in US I was thinking of buying whetstones from US. I have been looking at the Sharp Pebble 400/1000 grit and the Sharp Pebble 3000/8000 grit stones. I have been looking at stone sets in the range of under 80 USD because I don't have a big budget. Would love to get some advice from you. Thanks in advance.
PS. Huge fan of the channel❤❤
Question- (And this may sound silly) I once had a Kiritsuke when I was working as a professional chef (Acquaintance of mine borrowed and broke it, but that's beside the point), I believe by Tojiro. Found myself using it more than ANY other knife I had aside from my petty, and I miss having one but most of the options available here (WA) and on Amazon are either ungodly expensive or not great steel as far as I've found. What would be a good budget Kiritsuke or clip-point chef knife you could recommend? I'm trying to get back into the industry but am on a VERY tight budget and can't spend much. Edit- also targeting this question towards the community, if anyone knows of a good Kiritsuke under $70 ish, preferably half that but I doubt it.
P.S. I REALLY appreciate your videos, got me back into trying to sharpen my knives after having been taught "wrong" (Too much pressure, more of a grinding mentality than sharpening). Thank you!
Either yoshihiro or sakai takayuki... they're the same really... Save up a bit more and get one from them...real good!
@@TezNguyen No can do, my budget is not increasing in the next few years. Kind of set to be homeless for a few months, and the kitchen is me getting back on my feet. This purchase is meant for after I can afford a place, but I'm not going with a walmart Mercer for longer than I have to, yknow?
The one question that is always in my mind: why use Waterstones below 3k grit. I get it, high grit Waterstones produce a cleaner edge on high-end but isn't the one fine DMT that cuts the 1k edge as fast as a 300grit stone and lasts way longer the one and only legit solution?
regarding just using fine grit stones.. try it out you will be fine if it's just maintaining knives that are still sharp and not damaged, but if you have to sharpen a super dull knife or one that has been dropped or chipped edge you will wish you had that 140grit/400grit atoma and a 500/800 stone (or similar) before moving on to a fine stone.
sharpening on stones or Diamond plated feels very different i don't like the feel of diamond plates for sharpening but make do for the repair jobs so yeah you8 should try it out.
DMT plates are crap and don't last long and has a bad feel IMO but make your own comparison.
Hi Ryky
Sorry, missed this Q&A, found it by searching for something else...................how can I know when the next Q&A is posted?
Thank you for the heads up on the Naniwa Pro 3000, FWIW, does better than the 1000, and is faster than the 1000 (yes, the 600 would have been in there instead of the 1000 but couldn't get one Looking at the Classic Shun Chef for my first Japanese knife, which size, 8 inch or 10 inch?
Regards,
Gary
..........Au
you should hit the "bell notification" to be updated
I have a 1000/5000 whetstone. with a 8k Nagari stone for starting the 3000 side and helping keep a flat surface. But my biggest question is if the knife has scratch damage on the main flats. How do you fix this? I tried hand sanding to some good effect but I am having a issue with the little j hooks on the finish. especially were the integrated bolster transition is.
Also how can you sharpen a knife that has a appleseed bevel edge.
Hey Ryky, perfect video as always =) I'm a very beginner with sharpening, found out you love the Naniwa Pro 800 and 3000. Would you recommend to sharpen on the 800 and then finish it with the 3000? or do I need a 1000 grit stone in between? Thanks in advance, cheers vom Vienna (Austria)
you don't need 1000 in between the 800 and 3K
Thank you!!!
Cerax 1000/3000 combination stone is a great beginner stone
Have you ever reviewed Norton waterstones? What is your opinion on this brand?
Whats a good Stone To thin the legendary a type aritsugu Made of gokinko Steel? Ofcourse belt sander or something would be Best.
The appeal for cheaper and less durable comes in the case of needing a consistent and effective source of sharpening without having the funds for the better quality and longer lasting option. But other than necessity and lack of resources it makes no sense.
Hey Ryky, I have had the king KDS combo for about 4 years now and the 1000 grit side is just like when I bought it. It works great, but the 6000 grit side looks and feels very different. I had them dried and they were stored for about 1 year and now the 6000 grit side is no longer smooth as glass. It feels kind of bumpy and feels rougher than a 6000 grit like how it was when new. Do you believe the 6000 side has gone "bad" or is thus something normal that happens. If it's salvageable I'm open to suggestions to try and revive it, thanks for your time.
I am a 25+ year woodworker mostly in the western style. I've recently purchased some Japanese chisels to compare to my western style chisels. Woodworkers use mostly Shapton glass stones or Norton whetstones. Do you have any experience with Norton whetstones and how they compare to the ones you discussed in your whetstones video? I currently use 1000, 4000 and 8000 grit Norton stones but need to replace the 1000/4000 combination stone because it is about worn out. I'm considering buying the Suehiro Cerax 1010 whetstone #1000 and the Suehiro Rika Whetstone #5000. Would these be suitable for Japanese chisels that are white steel #2?
Yes. The stone does not care if its a knife or chisel. And both of them will handle that steel type perfectly fine
Ryky, can you explain the difference between the King WS and the KDS? When I bought mine the KDS was out of stock, and I remember many times you recommended the KDS over the budget version but never went into details why, just saying it was a better and less soft option, have you ever made a side by side comparison?
KDS has higher grade 1000/6000 side. the KWS uses much softer compounds and will wear much faster, and its' a smaller stone.
I am trying to put a new edge on a higonokami knife to resemble that of a razor. What should I do?
Sharpen it to a razor edge.
To have a razor edge, you need razor thickness. Think about it this way: you can't have a fat knife (with a butcher's knife or axe-like angle) that shaves. (well you can, but it wouldn't last, and us besides the point)
Thin your knife, then sharpen it going as fine as you want/need.
WHY?
only a beginner thinks the higest bevel (loweest number angle) is the best.
If you're doing a pocket knife like a higonokami, having the highest bevel may be counter productive to what you are doing.
What type steel?
How well is the edge protected when folded?
Are you carrying in pocket or in a sheath?
What is the product you are cutting?
What is the skill level of the sharpener?
What is the skill level of the user?
Those are ALL very very important questions to ask before you decide to sharpen.
I'd even ask myself if I want to add a secondary bevel.
As far as "how do I do it", you just sharpen at the angle you want. You want 17 degrees, you want 13 degrees, you want 9 degrees, you want 1 degree, you just hold the angle and start working. And I'd thin the actual blade also.
For a higonokami I would initially tend to make it less bevel (higher degrees) and a western pocket knife. But I absolutely would take all the above questions into effect
Hi Ryky, Question: can I sharpen my new S30V pocket knife blade with my Chosera 800 & 3000 stones?
those stones have successfully sharpened every knife i have put on them
of course you can. As ryky says, a knife doesn't know what stone it is on.
And s30V and it's cousin S35Vn are great steels!
Hey mate, been watching your channel for a while now, found it very informative, I have a question about polishing whetstones, I have chosera 3000, and a rika 5000, but I very rarely use the 5000 as I've found the chosera 3000 gives a better polish. I'm just curious is this something I'm doing wrong or is the chosera just a better stone? I'm a meat worker and the polish on my boning knives is very important.
Hey Dave, I have the same stones and generally just use the 3000 and avoid the 5000 like you as I get a better result (cutting ability) on the 3000.I'm just getting the kitayama 8000 to make it more of a step up.
@@RussellJones77 yeah righto, good to know it's not just me, thanks mate 👍
Hi Ryky, hope you and your family are doing well. I have two cheap lower grit stones 240ish and 400 one a German stone without mentioning grit. Also have Chosera 800 and 3000, should I get the Cerax Rika 5000 or what do you suggest? As to stop there for a while and perfect my skills
if you already have the naniwa 800 and 3000, the rika 5k, will not improve the edge much, if at all. a good leather strop, loaded with 9K amzn.to/2TMVeYF, is the cheapest way to really up the edge from the naniwa 3k. just my humble opinion.
Question: Do I have to dull my knife (your famous 20 strikes on a brick) before I sharpen it on the whetstone? Thank you
NOOOOOOOO please dont do that...!
@@DClaville LOL.... except if it's a challenge for somebody who kno exactly how use his wetstones !
But Nobody have sharpen his knife's edge destroying it just before lol ! ....andddd You are not obliged to Deflate your tires before inflate them lol !
No. No no no. In fact, once you get a knife good and sharp, you can mostly just touch it up on a higher-grit stone. And you don't even need to do that all that often, just when stropping or honing on a rod doesn't restore the edge any more. People who use their knives all day every day are the only ones who need to sharpen frequently.
for a beginner whetstone, is the cerax combo 1000/3000 a good starter ? They make it in 1000/6000 but no idea which one is more suitable ? Or should I buy a whetstone like the Cerax 1000 alone and another whetstone ? What do you think ? I use carbon knives made by Ceccaldi (a french maker) in carbon steel XC75 and standard stainless steel by Zwillings.
skip the combo stone, and just get the 1K for now. you can go with another brand for polishing if you like, which is why buying separately makes a lot of sense. bur.re/cx1000
What grit(s) and kind of wet stone do I need to sharpen a Buck 110 knife? And will they basically sharpen other folding knives? Can they also be used on my kitchen knives or would I need to purchase other grits and type of stone?
a good 1000, and any polishing stone is fine. naniwa pro 800 will cut fast, and the 3000 leaves a semi-mirror finish bur.re/naniwa, lots of people like these stones because they are slow wearing and fast cutting. stropping is optional, and just depends on how well polished you want your knife's edge to be
What's your take on the shapton pro 2000? It's arguably the best stone in the lineup but doesn't seem to get much attention compared to the others. P.S. I rarely go any higher
look at the Kit 8K bur.re/ky8000
A few nights ago I had to take my father to the emergency room while I was cooking, and in the panic getting out the door forgot to wipe down my kramer 8' carbon. I was slicing lemons and chicken and now I have a patina that isn't visually pleasing to look at. I tried the baking soda method you suggested in a previous video but it didn't get all of it as well as the rust eraser that came with the knife (first time I had to use it) but it didn't seem to work any better. Do you have any suggestions as to removing that patina? I've heard of metal polishing pastes/liquid any experience with these?
I am normally very careful with keeping my knives clean so I was very disappointed to come home and find my knife in that condition, any help is appreciated
Boy, tough one. I'm not familiar with the original finish of the knife. I restore old swords through a tedious method of water stone, oxides, and burnishing. I have worked on knives for friends though. Compounds would likely work, after all they're abrasives in a slurry, just like my Hazuya stones I use on Swords. The issue is the size of the abrasive particle. If large enough, those abrasives will leave their own mark. I would look for the finest diamond paste. My supplier is in Japan and you have to deal with the International money thing. I'll whisper it one more time, Namikawa Shoten Heibei. It comes in a little syringe. That paste was capable of touching up my Tungsten Carbide burnishing tool when it would get marred by a hard piece of grit.
Keep in mind that the Knife could have a Scotch Brite finish that may be difficult to replicate without a machine and correct Scotch Brite pad.
Flitz works great for me
@@enobil do you use the paste or liquid?
@@Tuxedosam. I'm using the tube, like a toothpaste. I use q-tips because it is cotton and precise. Flitz removes metal very aggressively even with q-tips which is just cotton. Please be careful to not cut yourself, you can lay the knife flat on a surface to avoid that. In about 15 minutes I get brand new polish, no patina left, far better than baking soda etc I tried before. And very tiny just one touch of flitz is sufficient assuming stainless clad. Hope that helps. It is not toxic like simichrome but of course I wash the blade well after this polishing. Also you can consider camelia/tsubaki oil btw for protection.
CAN YOU REVIEW 1# TORMEK T8 SHARPENER AND Japanese sharpening wheel 4,000g?
do you find your atoma plate to be flat? I am a woodworker, Japanese kana and nomis, who also has a Nippon knife. when I check my Atoma with my straight edge it doesn't create any confidence.
mine is 100% flat and have used on dozens of repairs
Can you store a water stone in water all the time or should they be out of the water between sharpenings?
some you can, but i never do. just a personal thing
Hey Ryky I was looking at your site for recommendation kits for sharpening. The overall theme of your videos for beginners seem to be skill over stone type. Should I go with the naniwa sharpening pro kit for my beginner set? Or should I get the same set up and just get 1 1000 grit stone for now. Please advice.
if you have the budget, go for it. nothing wrong with buying good quality stones to start, and you'll never outgrow them. bur.re/naniwa
Definitely, if the budget isn't an issue, go for the more expensive stones. They do perform better, and in some cases last longer.
Thanks guys I'm just going to save for the naniwa kit seems like it would be everything I need to get started. I would rather buy quality now and not pay again later. Lol
Question : about whetstones been using king whetstones, for sharpening axes and billhooks. the billhooks have a curved blade . finding the stones wear fairly quickly and uneven . would this be by applying to much pressure while using the stone or allways using the same part of the stone to get into the hook ??
digga1973 You may be just about the perfect candidate for diamond plates. Backing off on the pressure and varying the area you are using are always good ideas. But the way diamond plates are made will help you with flatness when sharpening tough items like axes.
@@randyjorgensen8363 thanks for your reply may look at some dmt dia-sharp diamond ?
What knife is the small blue one on the wall?
Can a fine grit whetstone replace a honing rod?
Probably not mate, as they do two different jobs, a whetstone removes material to create an edge, whereas a honing rod simply realigns the edge when it's been used.
Dave Carter Good to know. Thanks for the answer Dave.
daves answer is correct. A hone only realigns an edge it does not sharpen a knife
Thanks for reminding us there is a big difference between "budget" and "Cheap"
There are plenty of GREAT inexpensive stones and knives. It does NOT need to be expensive to be good.
Conversely, just because it is higher price, does NOT mean it is good. There is plenty of way overpriced junk out there. There are plenty of knives and stones that ARE overpriced to a similar quality knife or stone. And even if a knife or stone is slightly more expensive than it's relative value, sometimes it might be more because they offer a "value plus" or because we might want to support the workers of a particular region, such as US made. And yes, sometimes, they are just over priced. Do you need that "value added" feature? If not then you can buy the similar quality for less. IF you need the "value plus" then it might very well be worth it for you, however don't deceive yourself.
hi I need some help I use the kme knife sharpening system to sharpen my cold steel pocket knives I have and I talked to cold steel they say there blades are are 20 degree angles but for some reason I sharpen they won't form a burr and tips for me how to get a burr ?
The edge angle may in fact be 20°, but even if you set your KME to 20°, you might not be at 20° at the edge. Try coloring the whole edge with a permanent marker. Set up your KME, take 1 or 2 passes, and look at the marked edge. If the marker is being rubbed off by the stone across the full edge, you've got the right setting. If it's only taking it off the very thin edge, try lowering your setting by a half a degree and try again. If it's only taking it off the shoulder (the part of the edge farther up the blade), try raising by a half a degree and try again. Repeat until you are contacting the whole edge at once, then start sharpening on that side until you get a burr. When you flip the knife, the angle should be the same. That's true of most knives, and will definitely be true on Cold Steel knives.
thanks ill give it a try
Which whetstone is better the king 1000 or the cerax 1000?
for knives under 60-61 rockwell, they are similar. for knives over 61, cerax, hands down bur.re/cx1000. it's much faster cutting, and lasts much longer.
hi Ryky, what do you recommend ?
NEW CERAX 1k/3k or 1k/6k combo for vg10 at 61+- HRC ?
awesome channel
i would not go with the "new cerax" does not sharpen as well as the pro grade cerax bur.re/suehiro, cerax 1k + rika 5k or shiramine 6K, is what i would do.
What is the best low price stone?
Depends on your wallet. Sharppebble stones are real cheap, but acutally good! King Combo stone is a bit more exspensive but also Japanese quality! But con about the King combo is that it is a 1000/6000 grit versus the Sharppebble which is a 400/1000 grit which is better suited for REAL blunt knives. If you try to sharpen a REAL dull knife from 1000 grit, it will take you A LONG time!!
@@shadyeskimo Thank you. I have a number of wet stones but are not happy with any of them. I tried to search Amazon and the prices seem a bit high like 100+ dollars. Especially when you include transport to Norway, VAT, taxes, import fees and so on. Easily doubles the price. I will look up Sharppebble
@@shadyeskimo Looked up Sharppebble and it seems to be a place for me to start. Thank you. I see you call yourself shadyeskimo. Kalaallisut okraludokpit? I grew up in northern Greenland.
I might suggest checking out the Spyderco bench stones. They aren't traditional waterstones, but they are popular with many people and run about $50 each. You could get away with just the medium and strops with compound, or throw in a fine stone and strop on whatever you like after. I have the medium, but haven't tried it out yet. There are some reviews here on UA-cam.
$20-$30 burrfections.com/King1000, $40-$50 bur.re/cx1000
If you soak a whetstone for twenty minutes, then use it for ten. How much does the hamburger cost?
First, you have to realize, there is no hamburger...
does time actually exist?
I have a long question that I’m going to email you.
The real survivalist uses a rock to sharpen anything