Now I just took off a two-way switch there were two sets of wires in the back of the box one set I left alone the other set I took apart and now can't remember which two to put back together before I put the three for the switch any idea how to do a quick check on which two I put together they looked a little fried so I want to clean them up and put the back together before I put the switch back together went to go get a tool and forgot which two it was and he suggestions I'm used to changing switches and outlets normally I don't need to use a voltage box but in this case do I turn off the power first cuz I always shut the power off to change my switches bit electrocuted before wasn't fun PS love the video
Wow, thank you very much for the feedback. I am very humbled by your kind words. It is really encouraging to hear when a video was able to help someone or can help multiple folks. So I really appreciate the feedback Jeff and hope to see you around! 🙂
Very helpful video. For those of you who live in the Chicagoland area, you may or may not know that all wiring has to be installed in metal conduit. Commercial and residential. What that means is you probably won't see the ground screw being used on light switches, because the conduit system is the ground. Anything that is connected to the conduit is part of the ground system. Keep that in mind if you need to put a probe lead on ground.
If I was building today, I would put all wiring in stainless steel conduit, all exposed, not hidden inside the walls. Plumbing too! Right after my divorce.
Hey guys and gals, I hope this was helpful. If you liked it, please let me know by clicking the like button and consider subscribing! If you have any questions feel free to shoot them to me here!
How can i test a hot wire without a ground , to see if there is voltage like you explained if we have an older home we would need to find another way to test the hot wire if there isn’t a ground
This wasn't helpful for my issue. I can't figure out why 2 different dedicated GFIs stopped working. They won't test or reset. I wired a regular outlet to one circuit & still won't work. Tested just the wires after removing the GFIs & get 2 different results. Get ground to white hot on one circuit & the other both ground to white & ground to black is hot. 2 different wire test results. Can't figure the issue unless there is a loose wire at the panel or something else going on. I have no clue.. Any help appreciated!
Thank you for this video. I have a multimeter and a no contact probe. Now I know how to use them both. I have a 1998 park model, which is a mobile home type vacation unit, and I'm trying to replace two faulty self-contained light switches. The switches are in the bathroom. One switch goes to the exhaust fan and the other switch goes to the light above the vanity. I purchased two two single pole SC070 switches from a mobile home dealer. When I removed the two old rocker switches, I noticed there were four white Romex cables coming up from the bottom. There was one large staple stapling them to the wood. Doesn't look like there is any problem there. Each switch has one white cable going into the top and one white cable going into the bottom. Between the two switches is a short 6-in white cable. It comes out of the top of the first switch and goes into the bottom of the second switch. Somehow they are using a power tap or power tap and splice method but I'm not sure the person who installed this did it correctly. I have downloaded the installation instructions for the Pass & Seymore switches. Before I removed the switches I marked each one left top, left bottom, right top, and right bottom. Then I marked the connector in the middle as left top, right bottom. This is so I would know exactly how to put the cables into the new switches. When I opened the left SCD switch, some wires just fell out. They weren't connected well. Because of this, I couldn't tell which wire was pressed into the blade connectors first, second, and third. Do you have instruction on this type of switch, an SCD070? I have seen videos where they have gotten rid of the self-contained switch and used a modern traditional switch. It makes sense except for no one talks about the connector cable between my two self-contained switches and why they just eliminate it when they switch to a modern box switch. If you could elaborate at all, that would be great.
Great video. Clear and precise description of how to test for which wires are hot. I'm installing new switches today and until I watched this video, it wasn't clear to me which black wires were load and which were line. Two Thumbs Up!!
Good video. So glad you didn't clutter it up with a bunch of graphics and titles and corny music. What caught my attention was that phrase in your description, "...regardless of wire color." Mine are indecipherable, pink, red and yellow. None of them correspond to what one would think. First try to replace the switch tripped the breaker. Although the voltage tester "pen" works great, I like your suggestion. First I'm going back to the wall box to separate the three wires as far as they will stretch. Then test them again. I have a feeling I'll have to borrow someone's multimeter. Thanks your instruction. ADDENDUM: I used the pen-type voltage tester to find the hot wire, it's red! Perfect! Now all I have to do is figure out what the pink and yellow ones are. Thanks again!
Just as Patrick commented already, very helpful for electrical beginners or someone like myself that has done it before but it's not often and has been a long time. Subscribed!
This video was doubly helpful. Several other videos recommended the pen-type voltage detectors, without a full explanation of possible downsides. This one demonstrated not only pen-style detectors, but also multimeters ... I already have a multimeter and now will save the time and $ of adding a pen-type detector to my DIY arsenal. Kudos!
Really should get a non-contact voltage tester as it is quick and the situation may arise where the wire you want to test has a wire nut on it. Or you’re working on a ladder and reaching over your head to find the hot wire. What he didn’t mention is that you should check the NCV tester on a hot circuit before using it to make sure it is functioning properly. BTW- I have both devices.
Very helpful, actually the best video for an electrical beginner like me. My condo was built in the 80's. I added a separate light switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. I only have a yellow wire and a white wire in the ceiling to connect to the fan. The fan has connectors and you only get one shot at it. The connector has white, black, ground. I think the yellow wire is the hot wire but if i stick it in the black hot wire portion of the connector and its supposed to go into the white! Well once you put a wire into the connector it will not come out. Your video showed me exactly where to test and how to test. I'll flip the breaker on and test at the switch then test the two (white and yellow) wires for the exhaust fan. Thank you.
I have a problem with my wires it is old wtre with just white and black wire and wire is old paper coated in my ceiling there is at least 8 white wires a d 8 black wires and upstairs I have no bed room lights what do I do to have my lights working.
It was helpful, BUT, what if I don't have any ground cable or anything to put the black probe to ground? Being a concrete wall with plastic wire boxes, no ground wiring and nothing nearby to use as ground...
Run an extension cord from a nearby live outlet- that IS grounded- to the area you’re working in. Stick the black probe into the female ground of the extension cord (the round hole).
Adam, this was a great presentation. What if you don't have a ground or neutral in that switch box? In most cases you don't. The switched side of the circuit is the only thing in there. Have you ever used a two wire neon test light? You can identify the HOT or line wire without a ground or neutral. You might not want to show this in this venue, but it works.
Checking the switch with the multimeter like you did before the 5:00 mark. I’m getting nothing but I turned off the breaker. Should the breaker be on when checking it?
Great video, I thank you for sharing the warnings of when not to rely just on the tool, as a novice, or someone that just knows enough to be unsafe! Great reminder to double check and also take that extra step and just kill the power, be safe, we matter!
At 4:30 when checking the voltage do u have to be careful not to let the red tester touch the metal side of the light switch and the bolt 🔩 at the same time. I think I touched both with the red tester and a big spark popped
Thank you for the video. My light switches don't seem to have a ground wire. Where I live we don't have neutral wire in the light switch either. So how do I test for the live wire? Thanks.
Great video and very well explained. I know you mentioned that the non-contact voltage tester cant be relied on 100% in some circumstances. What about just verifying power is out after turning off a breaker? Would you rely on the voltage tester alone or bust out a multimeter?
Hey Clarke, yeah they still carry it and others like it. Just looks like the link that used to go to it has changed. I will get that updated soon. Thanks a lot for letting me know!
Adam awesome video. My question is why did you change the tester when you went to the bare wires. Could I have still used the original cheap multimeter tester you started with or was this a special situation with the bare wires where you needed to change the multimeter?
I really like simple straight forward videos on how to do very simple tasks and that was PERFECT! great job.. After I do this a dozen or so times I will look to do more difficult routine checking.. thanks again.... Jim
Thanks for the very helpful video. Just a little question, some of my electrical outlets have ground and some don't. For the cases when there's no ground wire, can I run an extension cord from an outlet with with ground and touch the ground with the black probe and then touch one of the wires with the red probe to find hot wire?
Thanks for reading this I know your very busy. Once I find the hot wire, what about the neutral. Are they hot wire specific. Before I took off the 3-prong outlet, it was testing for open ground. They all are testing for open ground because someone just hooked up 3 prong receptacles to a two prong setup. Now that I put in a gfci its testing for an open hot but the little green light next to the test button is lit up. The gfci comes tripped and because the wires are still off or I need to ground the grci, It wont reset. Just stuck...
I really appreciate your videos, they are well explained and they show a step-by-step process until the end, there are no shortcuts you get to see the results with no missing steps. I've watched many how to do videos and many would edit and you are like "what just happened", once again thank you.
Hey Adam, love your videos! I am becoming a DIYer now. Are there any techniques to mark the line and load wires connected to a switch/receptacle? A little effort during the first installation would save tons of time in the future.
I sometimes mark the line wires by wrapping electrical tape around them. This would signal to others as well that those wires are probably hot. Glad to hear you are finding so much value in the channel! I really appreciate the feedback!
Hello, thank you for the pod-cast,very informative! I have a chandelier that does not have the ground wire to attach to the ground wire inside the ceiling wire box. How should I approach the mounting of the chandelier? My 2nd Question relates finding the hot wire on the chandelier wire. The only difference between the two wires is a combination of a series of numbers. Would that be the hot wire to put to the hot wire from the ceiling box? Thank you
Nicely done, not overly technical or talky. Could you update this with a view to the many newer designs of switches and outlets? Leviton (and probably other makers) have obscured the actual connections so it's hard to test once you've seated a switch! Any way around that problem when swapping out older switches or receptacles?
Thanks so much for how you explained everything. I'm a first time home owner and have had to learn just about everything by myself. I watched at least 4 other videos first that still left me unsure, really appreciate your help.
Basic question. Was the breaker OFF while you were doing this procedure? I have to check 5 different black wires in the same box, and would not be comfortable with the breaker on...
No the breaker was on. I would not be able to find which one is the hot wire without it being hot. Totally understand that and if you don’t feel comfortable I would definitely recommend calling an electrician.
The metal box in an old home is a source for ground? I'm asking because I don't have the neutral wire, just two black wires and a metal box in the wall.
there seems to be a lot of confusion about 30A circuits DO THEY HAVE TO BE DEDICATED or can a 30A amp circuit have multiple receptacles? I understand that sometimes a 30A circuit has to be dedicated if the device is a high amp device but I believe that there is a confusion as to if a 30A circuit always has to be dedicated. That may be idea for a video
Hi Adam, I heard you say that depending on the home, some neutral wires will be hot...why is that? My home is wired that way and still trying to figure out why the white wire enjoys shocking me every so often. Great videos I recently subscribed and so glad I did...Keep them videos coming. Thank You!
I don't think that he said "some neutral wires will be hot", but rather some "white" wires will be hot. This can be the case in switch loop wiring, in which the power comes in to the light first.
Hello and thinks for sharing your knowledge. I have an old house that was built in the 50'S with the two prong receptacles and someone put in the 3 prong receptacles but they are test for open ground. They have no ground wire in the box. After putting in a gfci receptacle it tested for open hot. So I thought i reversed the blk wire the hot wire to the load and not the line. Still read for open hot . then I swapped the neutral wires around. Now im lost. When I test the wires with a multimeter it backlights red and I get 117.2 Volts and the other blk wire gives me a wired number like 9.679 or something. But the green button on gfci is lit up. I've read you can ground the receptacle box to the grn nut on the gfci. Please help. I need to get this up and running to feed the daisy chain.
What do you do when you are installing a ceiling fan and it does have: ground, hot and neutral wires but in the ceiling box there is not ground to conect, what do you do with the ground wire coming from your fan? Thank you
Adam, another very helpful video. Thanks! I will keep searching for information on my challenge of a two-wire older home I recently bought. Great house and property but I believe it was wired back in the dark ages. ...Tom
Helpful video for sure, but I want to confirm something you said in the video, but did not demonstrate. My 1960's apartment boxes have no ground wire. I was told the metal boxes, conduit pipe, and BX cables are grounded by default, given the way the electrical was laid in my building. I have red and black wires in some of my switch boxes. If I want to test which wire is hot, I need to place the black probe to touch the metal box, and then use the red probe to touch each wire. Whichever wire indicates 120v on the meter, that's the hot wire. Do I have this correct?
Great video. I have a question about a garbage disposal switch.. Mind stop working and I can't figure out which wire is feeding the power to the switch so I can shut the breaker off. The switch is on the right side of a double box. I hope you can help. Thanks
So i am wiring a ceiling fan. I have one black wire that was tucked into the box. Thats my feed through. Then i have a white which is the neutral and a red and a white. I used a non contact voltagw meter with the breaker on and both had voltage. Someone told me to use the volt meter like you have to see which one is always on. Im assuming i have to have power off to do that?
My doorbell circuit has two black wires and no ground. When I measure the voltage between them I get 18V AC. To find out which one is hot, I followed the instructions in this video, except I connected the black probe of my multimeter to the ground on a regular 120V outlet in my garage using an extension cord. I expected that one of the wires would read 18V relative to ground and the other would read 0V. Instead, I found that one reads 10V and the other reads 8V... Any idea what that means??
I have had 3 Klein testers, never a problem. My very first tester was a commercial electric brand, and it burned me the first month I had it. Buy quality for this kind of stuff, I believe it helps.
You used a multimeter with just one probe touching ground, without touching the other end to a known ground. How does that work and what reading would you expect to get when touching ground?
Ive done the multimeter test and ive stumbled upon a case in which none of the black wires would give out a reading. (single pole) i tried grouding with the ground wire and also with the metal outlet case. Any ideas whhy none of the wires have a reading? there are no issues with the light switch...not sure why this is hapening.
My home is probably full of wires that are red and white. I just wired one side of my garage after demo'ing out all the old outlets and the main wires that I hooked up in a new junction box were only red and white. No ground. Same thing with wiring up a chain of LED shop lights. What saved me was having those exact same Klein tools you used in the video.
Hello Adam can you use the Blue tester to test the wires in the box? Why did you which tools when you tested the light switch? And also I need to find a consistent “hot” wire to tie into to add a socket in my attic. What should I use? Thanks In advance
So I put the meter on AC reading, put my black on ground and red on black but it read very low. Did the same on black to ground and red to white and it read low, then I set the black on white and red on black and it read 120ac. How is that connected to a switch? I thought the black would be the hot and neutrals just get bonded together
Any idea why some resources say to turn off the breaker first? Made no sense to me as how will I read electricity when there’s no electricity running through.
My multimeter does not have the V setting. If I use OHM X1K how do I test if the light switch is not live before I change it to a toggle one? Thanks for your help
your multimeter might say ACV and a sine wave / squiggle line, or it might say DCV with a solid line and dotted line. for house wiring, use ACV (A/C Volts). OHM is for testing resistance.
Non-contact voltage testers can also sense hot wires through Romex sheathing but not well, if at all, through the old 60+ year old type of sheathing that is covered in some sort of woven fabric type material. Even a high end Fluke tester barely lit up when I was tracing the path of a circuit. If you’re dealing with old cables, verify your voltage testing with some other method.
What about finding a hot/line wire on an outlet? Would I have turn off power. Separate the wires the turn power on and then the wires to see what's hot?
The way I would put it is that if you just need to find the hot wire the voltage tester will do, but if it is necessary to find a fault in the circuit then you need to use the multimeter to check for ground or neutral ground because if the neutral is broken somewhere, the circuit won't work; if you can't get 120v between hot and neutral then the neutral is broken somewhere in the circuit or panel.
When I found the hot wire I was shocked
Anddddddd comment of the month goes to you sir 😂 In fact, I think I will pin it.
Never work on a circuit with power service on. It against electrucal code and safety and a ohsa violation
Bet that was a shocking experience
@@jeffburk1692 hahahaha like it be when he gets between a neutral hahaha all his hair be like standing 3 feet tall hahahaha
Now I just took off a two-way switch there were two sets of wires in the back of the box one set I left alone the other set I took apart and now can't remember which two to put back together before I put the three for the switch any idea how to do a quick check on which two I put together they looked a little fried so I want to clean them up and put the back together before I put the switch back together went to go get a tool and forgot which two it was and he suggestions I'm used to changing switches and outlets normally I don't need to use a voltage box but in this case do I turn off the power first cuz I always shut the power off to change my switches bit electrocuted before wasn't fun PS love the video
Don't let this go to your head, How to Home, but you just did one of the best lessons on how to find the hot wire, that I have seen on UA-cam. Jeff
Wow, thank you very much for the feedback. I am very humbled by your kind words. It is really encouraging to hear when a video was able to help someone or can help multiple folks. So I really appreciate the feedback Jeff and hope to see you around! 🙂
Very helpful video. For those of you who live in the Chicagoland area, you may or may not know that all wiring has to be installed in metal conduit. Commercial and residential. What that means is you probably won't see the ground screw being used on light switches, because the conduit system is the ground. Anything that is connected to the conduit is part of the ground system. Keep that in mind if you need to put a probe lead on ground.
If I was building today, I would put all wiring in stainless steel conduit, all exposed, not hidden inside the walls. Plumbing too! Right after my divorce.
Thanks. Is this a Chicagoland thing only?
I'm not 100%, but I believe NY City is the same.
Thanks for the info!
Thank you for not getting too technical. Just the right amount. Thanks
Awesome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback!
Hey guys and gals, I hope this was helpful. If you liked it, please let me know by clicking the like button and consider subscribing! If you have any questions feel free to shoot them to me here!
Hi Adam, can you make a video on how to troubleshoot why my outside power outlet isn't working?
How can i test a hot wire without a ground , to see if there is voltage like you explained if we have an older home we would need to find another way to test the hot wire if there isn’t a ground
This wasn't helpful for my issue. I can't figure out why 2 different dedicated GFIs stopped working. They won't test or reset. I wired a regular outlet to one circuit & still won't work. Tested just the wires after removing the GFIs & get 2 different results. Get ground to white hot on one circuit & the other both ground to white & ground to black is hot. 2 different wire test results. Can't figure the issue unless there is a loose wire at the panel or something else going on. I have no clue..
Any help appreciated!
Thank you for this video. I have a multimeter and a no contact probe. Now I know how to use them both. I have a 1998 park model, which is a mobile home type vacation unit, and I'm trying to replace two faulty self-contained light switches. The switches are in the bathroom. One switch goes to the exhaust fan and the other switch goes to the light above the vanity. I purchased two two single pole SC070 switches from a mobile home dealer. When I removed the two old rocker switches, I noticed there were four white Romex cables coming up from the bottom. There was one large staple stapling them to the wood. Doesn't look like there is any problem there. Each switch has one white cable going into the top and one white cable going into the bottom. Between the two switches is a short 6-in white cable. It comes out of the top of the first switch and goes into the bottom of the second switch. Somehow they are using a power tap or power tap and splice method but I'm not sure the person who installed this did it correctly. I have downloaded the installation instructions for the Pass & Seymore switches. Before I removed the switches I marked each one left top, left bottom, right top, and right bottom. Then I marked the connector in the middle as left top, right bottom. This is so I would know exactly how to put the cables into the new switches. When I opened the left SCD switch, some wires just fell out. They weren't connected well. Because of this, I couldn't tell which wire was pressed into the blade connectors first, second, and third. Do you have instruction on this type of switch, an SCD070? I have seen videos where they have gotten rid of the self-contained switch and used a modern traditional switch. It makes sense except for no one talks about the connector cable between my two self-contained switches and why they just eliminate it when they switch to a modern box switch. If you could elaborate at all, that would be great.
Great video. Clear and precise description of how to test for which wires are hot. I'm installing new switches today and until I watched this video, it wasn't clear to me which black wires were load and which were line. Two Thumbs Up!!
Good video. So glad you didn't clutter it up with a bunch of graphics and titles and corny music.
What caught my attention was that phrase in your description, "...regardless of wire color." Mine are indecipherable, pink, red and yellow. None of them correspond to what one would think. First try to replace the switch tripped the breaker. Although the voltage tester "pen" works great, I like your suggestion. First I'm going back to the wall box to separate the three wires as far as they will stretch. Then test them again. I have a feeling I'll have to borrow someone's multimeter. Thanks your instruction.
ADDENDUM: I used the pen-type voltage tester to find the hot wire, it's red! Perfect! Now all I have to do is figure out what the pink and yellow ones are. Thanks again!
Men are amazing! Great Builders, creators!! Teachers🎉
Weak
Just as Patrick commented already, very helpful for electrical beginners or someone like myself that has done it before but it's not often and has been a long time. Subscribed!
Really glad to hear it was a good refresher for you. Thanks for the feedback and look forward to seeing you around Kent!
This video was doubly helpful. Several other videos recommended the pen-type voltage detectors, without a full explanation of possible downsides. This one demonstrated not only pen-style detectors, but also multimeters ... I already have a multimeter and now will save the time and $ of adding a pen-type detector to my DIY arsenal. Kudos!
Awesome, glad you liked it. I definitely believe that every tool has its place. Enjoy the new toy. Thanks for the feedback!
Really should get a non-contact voltage tester as it is quick and the situation may arise where the wire you want to test has a wire nut on it. Or you’re working on a ladder and reaching over your head to find the hot wire. What he didn’t mention is that you should check the NCV tester on a hot circuit before using it to make sure it is functioning properly. BTW- I have both devices.
Thank you! Holding the black probe in holster of the multimeter made all the difference.
Very helpful, actually the best video for an electrical beginner like me. My condo was built in the 80's. I added a separate light switch for the bathroom exhaust fan. I only have a yellow wire and a white wire in the ceiling to connect to the fan. The fan has connectors and you only get one shot at it. The connector has white, black, ground. I think the yellow wire is the hot wire but if i stick it in the black hot wire portion of the connector and its supposed to go into the white! Well once you put a wire into the connector it will not come out. Your video showed me exactly where to test and how to test. I'll flip the breaker on and test at the switch then test the two (white and yellow) wires for the exhaust fan. Thank you.
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful! I will probably be doing the same as you are doing soon. Would rather have the fan and light separated.
I have a problem with my wires it is old wtre with just white and black wire and wire is old paper coated in my ceiling there is at least 8 white wires a d 8 black wires and upstairs I have no bed room lights what do I do to have my lights working.
It was helpful, BUT, what if I don't have any ground cable or anything to put the black probe to ground? Being a concrete wall with plastic wire boxes, no ground wiring and nothing nearby to use as ground...
Run an extension cord from a nearby live outlet- that IS grounded- to the area you’re working in. Stick the black probe into the female ground of the extension cord (the round hole).
This is a great tool for verifying that the electrical is not hot at a certain point and finding which switches are part of a circuit.
Adam, this was a great presentation. What if you don't have a ground or neutral in that switch box? In most cases you don't. The switched side of the circuit is the only thing in there. Have you ever used a two wire neon test light? You can identify the HOT or line wire without a ground or neutral. You might not want to show this in this venue, but it works.
Hi. When using this for your second example ( exposed wire not attached to light switch) do I need to shut power off from breaker box first?
Checking the switch with the multimeter like you did before the 5:00 mark. I’m getting nothing but I turned off the breaker. Should the breaker be on when checking it?
In order to know what wire is supplying the power the breaker has to be on unfortunately.
Great video, I thank you for sharing the warnings of when not to rely just on the tool, as a novice, or someone that just knows enough to be unsafe! Great reminder to double check and also take that extra step and just kill the power, be safe, we matter!
Glad you liked it Jesse! Can never be too safe! Thanks for the feedback!
At 4:30 when checking the voltage do u have to be careful not to let the red tester touch the metal side of the light switch and the bolt 🔩 at the same time. I think I touched both with the red tester and a big spark popped
Yeah definitely only let it touch the one terminal or you may turn your multimeter into a welder.
@@HowToHomeDIY haha I know wht u mean now 😂. 💥 Thanks for the video and your response.
You really should educate yourself on electrical circuits before messing with this stuff if that came as a surprise
Wow, I just wanted to thank you for making such an incredibly helpful video! It really made a difference in my understanding of electrical wiring.
Are you testing with power on at breaker or off?
If I’m looking for which wire is hot, the breaker has to be on.
I learnt a lot today. Thank you for taking the time to explain in simple detail. I appreciate it.
Thank you for the video. My light switches don't seem to have a ground wire. Where I live we don't have neutral wire in the light switch either. So how do I test for the live wire? Thanks.
My question as well…!
Great video and very well explained. I know you mentioned that the non-contact voltage tester cant be relied on 100% in some circumstances. What about just verifying power is out after turning off a breaker? Would you rely on the voltage tester alone or bust out a multimeter?
Hi Adam. Thanks for all your videos! Just wanted to mention that at 02:50, this specific tool was actually recalled - and Amazon no longer carries it.
Hey Clarke, yeah they still carry it and others like it. Just looks like the link that used to go to it has changed. I will get that updated soon. Thanks a lot for letting me know!
Wondering if they still carry? Web link is still not working for me? Please advise. Appreciate it and thanks in advance.
Ok thank you for letting me know. I have fixed it. This link will take you to it: amzn.to/41cPDgq
Adam awesome video. My question is why did you change the tester when you went to the bare wires. Could I have still used the original cheap multimeter tester you started with or was this a special situation with the bare wires where you needed to change the multimeter?
No the original multimeter would work too. I just picked that one up. Thanks a lot for the feedback Richard!
My light switch no ground wire. And 2 blacks wire connected to switch and how i know which wire in hot and which wire in neutral wire ?
I really like simple straight forward videos on how to do very simple tasks and that was PERFECT! great job.. After I do this a dozen or so times I will look to do more difficult routine checking.. thanks again.... Jim
Thanks for the very helpful video. Just a little question, some of my electrical outlets have ground and some don't. For the cases when there's no ground wire, can I run an extension cord from an outlet with with ground and touch the ground with the black probe and then touch one of the wires with the red probe to find hot wire?
Thanks for reading this I know your very busy. Once I find the hot wire, what about the neutral. Are they hot wire specific. Before I took off the 3-prong outlet, it was testing for open ground. They all are testing for open ground because someone just hooked up 3 prong receptacles to a two prong setup. Now that I put in a gfci its testing for an open hot but the little green light next to the test button is lit up. The gfci comes tripped and because the wires are still off or I need to ground the grci, It wont reset.
Just stuck...
I really appreciate your videos, they are well explained and they show a step-by-step process until the end, there are no shortcuts you get to see the results with no missing steps. I've watched many how to do videos and many would edit and you are like "what just happened", once again thank you.
Thank you!! You rock for “ presentation “!! Great job. We are the people.
You are very welcome! Glad you liked it. Thank you for the feedback!
So very helpful. Thank you so much for instructing us on this subject! 😊
Hey Adam, love your videos! I am becoming a DIYer now.
Are there any techniques to mark the line and load wires connected to a switch/receptacle? A little effort during the first installation would save tons of time in the future.
I sometimes mark the line wires by wrapping electrical tape around them. This would signal to others as well that those wires are probably hot. Glad to hear you are finding so much value in the channel! I really appreciate the feedback!
Hello, thank you for the pod-cast,very informative! I have a chandelier that does not have the ground wire to attach to the ground wire inside the ceiling wire box. How should I approach the mounting of the chandelier? My 2nd Question relates finding the hot wire on the chandelier wire. The only difference between the two wires is a combination of a series of numbers. Would that be the hot wire to put to the hot wire from the ceiling box? Thank you
This was very helpful and clear, thank you!
Nicely done, not overly technical or talky. Could you update this with a view to the many newer designs of switches and outlets? Leviton (and probably other makers) have obscured the actual connections so it's hard to test once you've seated a switch! Any way around that problem when swapping out older switches or receptacles?
Thanks so much for how you explained everything. I'm a first time home owner and have had to learn just about everything by myself. I watched at least 4 other videos first that still left me unsure, really appreciate your help.
Basic question. Was the breaker OFF while you were doing this procedure? I have to check 5 different black wires in the same box, and would not be comfortable with the breaker on...
No the breaker was on. I would not be able to find which one is the hot wire without it being hot. Totally understand that and if you don’t feel comfortable I would definitely recommend calling an electrician.
The metal box in an old home is a source for ground? I'm asking because I don't have the neutral wire, just two black wires and a metal box in the wall.
yah this was important to know- because of this i am back as a subscriber. thanks.
I am glad you found it to be helpful! Glad to have ya back!
Solid explanation! Short, sweet and to the point!!
there seems to be a lot of confusion about 30A circuits DO THEY HAVE TO BE DEDICATED or can a 30A amp circuit have multiple receptacles? I understand that sometimes a 30A circuit has to be dedicated if the device is a high amp device but I believe that there is a confusion as to if a 30A circuit always has to be dedicated. That may be idea for a video
Learned a lot from your post.
Does it matter which neutral wire I use in place of the ground. Could I touch something metal to give ground just for the test?
Hi Adam, I heard you say that depending on the home, some neutral wires will be hot...why is that? My home is wired that way and still trying to figure out why the white wire enjoys shocking me every so often. Great videos I recently subscribed and so glad I did...Keep them videos coming. Thank You!
I don't think that he said "some neutral wires will be hot", but rather some "white" wires will be hot. This can be the case in switch loop wiring, in which the power comes in to the light first.
Words can’t express how happy and thankful I am for finding this video😩 yall just don’t know lol.
Hello and thinks for sharing your knowledge. I have an old house that was built in the 50'S with the two prong receptacles and someone put in the 3 prong receptacles but they are test for open ground. They have no ground wire in the box. After putting in a gfci receptacle it tested for open hot. So I thought i reversed the blk wire the hot wire to the load and not the line. Still read for open hot . then I swapped the neutral wires around. Now im lost. When I test the wires with a multimeter it backlights red and I get 117.2 Volts and the other blk wire gives me a wired number like 9.679 or something. But the green button on gfci is lit up. I've read you can ground the receptacle box to the grn nut on the gfci. Please help. I need to get this up and running to feed the daisy chain.
What do you do when you are installing a ceiling fan and it does have: ground, hot and neutral wires but in the ceiling box there is not ground to conect, what do you do with the ground wire coming from your fan?
Thank you
Leave it or u can connect ur ground if it’s a metal box
Adam, another very helpful video. Thanks! I will keep searching for information on my challenge of a two-wire older home I recently bought. Great house and property but I believe it was wired back in the dark ages. ...Tom
Yeah a two wire does point to an older home. But I am sure it is build better than a lot of what is built today. I appreciate the feedback Tom.
Helpful video for sure, but I want to confirm something you said in the video, but did not demonstrate. My 1960's apartment boxes have no ground wire. I was told the metal boxes, conduit pipe, and BX cables are grounded by default, given the way the electrical was laid in my building. I have red and black wires in some of my switch boxes. If I want to test which wire is hot, I need to place the black probe to touch the metal box, and then use the red probe to touch each wire. Whichever wire indicates 120v on the meter, that's the hot wire. Do I have this correct?
Great video. I have a question about a garbage disposal switch.. Mind stop working and I can't figure out which wire is feeding the power to the switch so I can shut the breaker off. The switch is on the right side of a double box. I hope you can help. Thanks
So i am wiring a ceiling fan. I have one black wire that was tucked into the box. Thats my feed through. Then i have a white which is the neutral and a red and a white. I used a non contact voltagw meter with the breaker on and both had voltage. Someone told me to use the volt meter like you have to see which one is always on. Im assuming i have to have power off to do that?
Which meter/tester is a better inexpensive type that can be used in almost all scenarios?
Do you have a video,, that has a light switch that can also control the receptacle, for off & on switch??
Very good instructions.
I only have one question: Are you related to Derek Carr?
I am not. Would be cool to meet him though!
@@HowToHomeDIY
HA HA!
My doorbell circuit has two black wires and no ground. When I measure the voltage between them I get 18V AC. To find out which one is hot, I followed the instructions in this video, except I connected the black probe of my multimeter to the ground on a regular 120V outlet in my garage using an extension cord.
I expected that one of the wires would read 18V relative to ground and the other would read 0V. Instead, I found that one reads 10V and the other reads 8V... Any idea what that means??
Clear and concise. Thanks.
Just remodeled bathroom. Vanity light was working and now is not. Checked everything I can think of. Could it be a bad breaker? It is not tripping?
Thanks, the hole in the wall with bare wires is my exact predicament
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Great vid except how do you ID the ground wire? I have three unidentified wires with colored coatings I have never seen.
Ground will either be a bare copper wire or green. Or at least it should be.
I have had 3 Klein testers, never a problem. My very first tester was a commercial electric brand, and it burned me the first month I had it. Buy quality for this kind of stuff, I believe it helps.
Excellent presentation, clear, succinct and helpful
Really glad to hear it was helpful. Thanks a lot for the feedback Travis!
Really helpful! Thanks mate 👍
Great video. Thanks! Helped me remodeling my bathroom.
Awesome, you are welcome. Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the feedback!
You used a multimeter with just one probe touching ground, without touching the other end to a known ground. How does that work and what reading would you expect to get when touching ground?
this video was very very helpful, thank you so much!!!
Ive done the multimeter test and ive stumbled upon a case in which none of the black wires would give out a reading. (single pole) i tried grouding with the ground wire and also with the metal outlet case. Any ideas whhy none of the wires have a reading? there are no issues with the light switch...not sure why this is hapening.
My home is probably full of wires that are red and white. I just wired one side of my garage after demo'ing out all the old outlets and the main wires that I hooked up in a new junction box were only red and white. No ground. Same thing with wiring up a chain of LED shop lights. What saved me was having those exact same Klein tools you used in the video.
I hear ya! Having the right tools for the job really can make everything so much easier! Glad they were helpful for you and your projects!
Hello Adam can you use the Blue tester to test the wires in the box? Why did you which tools when you tested the light switch? And also I need to find a consistent “hot” wire to tie into to add a socket in my attic. What should I use? Thanks In advance
For a single pole switch does it even matter if the hot wire is mounted on top or bottom switch location?
Thank you for a great video really helpful
Really glad to hear you found it helpful!
So I put the meter on AC reading, put my black on ground and red on black but it read very low. Did the same on black to ground and red to white and it read low, then I set the black on white and red on black and it read 120ac. How is that connected to a switch? I thought the black would be the hot and neutrals just get bonded together
Another great video
Does this apply to 3 way switches also??
It applies to finding any wire that is supplying electricity.
Any idea why some resources say to turn off the breaker first? Made no sense to me as how will I read electricity when there’s no electricity running through.
Good video. Well explained
Question, Been using voltage meter all day. This time, neither of the black wires are showing hot! Any suggestions?
Thanks, it was very helpful.
Glad it helped! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
My multimeter does not have the V setting. If I use OHM X1K how do I test if the light switch is not live before I change it to a toggle one? Thanks for your help
your multimeter might say ACV and a sine wave / squiggle line, or it might say DCV with a solid line and dotted line. for house wiring, use ACV (A/C Volts). OHM is for testing resistance.
Great video 👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Victor.
Thanks a bunch! Don't have a wand for testing but I had a continuity tester so I was able to identify the line wire for a dimmer switch install!
Thanks for an informative and useful video. I appreciate the work you put into it. Stay safe!
You are welcome, thank you for watching and for the feedback! Take care!
Thank you. That was helpful.
Very well explanation on how to test for hot wires. Thanks!
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you so so much for this video, helped me understand my situation purely
Thanks for explaining this.. really appreciate your help...
Non-contact voltage testers can also sense hot wires through Romex sheathing but not well, if at all, through the old 60+ year old type of sheathing that is covered in some sort of woven fabric type material. Even a high end Fluke tester barely lit up when I was tracing the path of a circuit. If you’re dealing with old cables, verify your voltage testing with some other method.
you can lick the cable to find out the problem with this method is that you can only really do it once
Very very helpful thank you
My light box have only 1black 1white . This mean no neutral wire??thanks
What about finding a hot/line wire on an outlet? Would I have turn off power. Separate the wires the turn power on and then the wires to see what's hot?
Hi, similarly how would you determine the Neutral and Earth wire out of the two
what do you do if you dont know which terminal is ground? or youre not confident it's connected to ground properly?
Good job! Thanks.
You are welcome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback!
Are you doing this with the electric on or off ?
The only way to find a hot wire is if the power is on. So if you are doing this, make sure to take proper safety precautions.
Thanks for the info I need,, and knowledge,,
You are welcome! Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback.
The way I would put it is that if you just need to find the hot wire the voltage tester will do, but if it is necessary to find a fault in the circuit then you need to use the multimeter to check for ground or neutral ground because if the neutral is broken somewhere, the circuit won't work; if you can't get 120v between hot and neutral then the neutral is broken somewhere in the circuit or panel.
Yup, good tip Carl. Thanks for the feedback!
Great video. Thanks!
You are welcome! Glad you liked it!
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I needed to know, exactly when I needed to know it.
Glad it was helpful!