How to MIX Daniel Smith Primatek Mineral Watercolors Serpentine Green Apatite Diopside Jadeite PBr11
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2021
- DIY mix your own Primatek watercolor! Match Daniel Smith minerals, color separating paints. Featuring watercolor pigment PBr11 vs PY119. Replicate Green Apatite, Diopside, Serpentine, Jadeite, Burnt Tiger's Eye Genuine. show more for links
PBr11 is available as DS Lunar Earth, or Roman Szmal Aquarius Brown. PY119 is available as a super smooth version from Schmincke, or Winsor Newton Magnesium Brown that is much closer to PBr11.
I buy Daniel Smith and other watercolors worldwide at www.jacksonsart.com/en-us/col...
Amazon USA PBr11 Lunar Earth watercolor - amzn.to/3ewzURs
Blick USA also carries Winsor and Newton watercolors at - shrsl.com/2d1hc
LIST of my top used papers, waterproof pens, palette containers, mixing dishes, lighting and more can be seen on my website at
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Brushes I use most - Neptune to hold a lot of water amzn.to/2Af92Fg
Heritage to hold a good point amzn.to/32hBUbz
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End of video swatch card preview is Daniel Smith's Cascade Green which you can find here: amzn.to/38WzjEI or here: www.jacksonsart.com/en-us/dan...
Pigment database, rubber stamps, color wheel palettes, ink, craft supplies, lightfast testing, swatch cards, digital download printable art and more at:
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Line art for your painting practice and high resolution color scans are available at:
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Recorded with my IPhone. Editing program = VSDC. #watercolor - Навчання та стиль
There is speculation about just how much "genuine" minerals are actually present in Daniel Smith's mineral watercolors. Several have been found to be prone to fading and may also contain secondary undisclosed synthetic pigments. Regardless of if their watercolors are truly "special", the core truth is that ALL of them can be closely replicated with other pigments. Often a single purchase - like a tube of PBr11, will help you replicate at least 5 other minerals when mixed with your basic pan set/cheaper common watercolors. I'm attempting to de-mystify "unusual" and color separating mixtures. I hope to help you feel less tempted to buy something that you may not need (and may frankly be overpriced). I hope this helps! Happy painting :)
Thank you for your hard work! Looking forward to this series!
What is interesting to me is that while trying to decide which DS paint tube to purchase awhile via my dot card, I ended up getting Lunar Black because I saw through my jewelers loupe just how similar some of the Primatek paints looked to Lunar Black through them, just with added pigment, so thought let me just get the base colour and I can replicate some of them myself to save money, now with what has been going on, I wonder if these certain Primatek colours black granulation was infact ... Lunar Black !!
@@1827handmade Yes, Lunar Black (aka Magnetite, a form of Black Iron Oxide, PBk11) runs through many minerals. So when you see black speckles in a genuine mineral pigment it is very likely the same thing. Fun fact - Purpurite is a purple rock that is made of manganese and trace minerals like black iron oxide... This stone is often separated and filtered to make Manganese Violet PV16 and Lunar Black/Oxide PBk11. Replicating Purpurite is just following the ingredient of the stone to put them back together. Kinda fun to think about :)
DS released a statement today on their facebook page admitting they "enhance" the primateks.. I'm not buying anything else from them. I don't trust anything they put out at this point.. I already knew the lightfast ratings couldn't be trusted, and who knows what else has been "enhanced" without it being reflected in the labeling. I regret buying the primateks I have.. which were purchased because they were stated to be single pigment... but aren't. I do love my ultimate mixing set but it will be refilled with a brand I can trust.. there is nothing special in there other than the color selection and that was all Jane Blundells doing.. her gray is an easy mix. Perhaps you could do a video or blog post on the brands who have the best record of accurate labeling?
@@waymire01 luckily Roman Szmal has a lovely version of pbr11 as well. I’ll be doing a few more videos about problems in the watercolor world with information. A lot of companies make mistakes and some intentionally mislead. While I don’t personally love qor because of their expense and wild flow/disperse, i will say that golden the makers of qor are one of the most honest and reliable about lightfast testing and proper advertising.
I love how timely this video is. These mixtures are gorgeous as always! Thank you for sharing your pigment studies with us.
Thank you Denise, and for sharing my post on Insta! I'm sad to see all the issues with Daniel Smith going on... I think it's a good time to work on a couple more videos like this, I'm sure many artists will be looking for alternatives. I'm pretty certain there are also non-primatek paints with unknown additives and even some paints containing fluorescent dyes. It would have been OK had they just been honest with their labeling and marketing. Their mineral paints were some of my very first investments as a watercolor artist. I remember being convinced that they were not only rare/exclusive and 100% genuine mineral (in the non-binder pigment portion), but also impossible to recreate with synthetic pigments. Many of us need to be careful with our spending, especially since the pandemic, so it really hurts to feel like some investments were not as special as we were led to believe.
I subscribed back when you did your 1st Moonglow dupe video. All of your content is excellent. Can't believe they are charging so much for paints with poor lightfastness. Can't wait to see more of how to create these paints for less and have better lightfast qualities. Thank you so much for these $$$ saving videos.
Just wanted to thank you for your incredibly helpful and in depth videos, they’re very much appreciated.
I really appreciate the time it takes you to make these videos. I recently started painting again after a twenty year break. I spent a lot of time researching the best brand for me and decided to buy mostly Daniel Smith. After watching this video and reading the comments, I regret my decision. Who wants to spend weeks on a painting, only to see it fade away in a few years😢?
Your information is amazing, but, I've just gotta say, I come here to watch you paint birds and kitties.... 🤣 🥰
I've been eyeing a tube of Serpentine for a while now but I couldn't justify spending 40 Aus dollars on it. That being said, Lunar Earth is more than half the price and it looks like a more versatile colour, so I'll absolutely be experimenting with the recipe you gave
I'm so glad to hear that, some of those mineral colors are outrageously expensive. PBr11 from either Roman Szmal or Daniel Smith is definitely more versatile and one of the most actively granulating pigments I've ever seen. Great if you love texture :D
I think Liz Steel, if I remember correctly, made a hue with a sap green, or maybe DS Green Gold, and Potters Pink that is pretty spot on! Maybe Google Liz Steel and Potters pink? 🙂
@@hannahthufvesson with side by side comparison to the minerals, PBr11 is capable of more closely matching the real thing than PR233. Potters Pink lacks the brighter orange brown that make these dupes more convincing.
@@KimberlyCrick Thank you for this reply! I love these conversations! Am definitely going to sit down and make lots of mixes now ☺️ You are always so inspiring!
What a gem of a "rabbit hole" I just discovered watching your video! Thank you so much for demystifying and simply explaining what to look for.
Ooooh a mixing video! I would never have known about the Winsor & Newton mislabel without you! It's hard to believe that these huge companies can make such a silly error, but I suppose nothing is impossible. Gorgeous art and mixtures as always; super helpful! Thanks for sharing.
I’m secretly hoping that its some sort of special hybrid. Color wise it’s almost perfectly between py119 and pbr11... could it be a zinc iron oxide enhanced with a touch of magnesium? Who knows? Either way, despite the labeling confusion it is a nice paint.
PBr11 from Daniel Smith is my absolute favorite brown. I love the mixes I can create from it. My favorite so far is when I mix Payne's Grey from QOR with it.
Paynes Grey with PBr11 is total magic, I agree - the mixtures you get from that combination alone are worth having PBr11 :D
I’m new to your channel, but when I checked out your website I was stunned by the amazing pigment/paint data you have on offer 😊. You are offering a truly valuable and brilliant source of advice for artists. It’s so easy to be seduced by marketing and pay mega bucks for “unique and lightfast paints” when in reality many are like homeopathic recipes with a tiny amount of rare mineral (which may do little) mixed in with mostly conventional pigments. Thank you!
Have been in the market for a tube of serpentine genuine for a while now, only put off by the price of the DS larger tubes. Another comment or put me onto your videos of how to achieve a look alike. I had tried with W&N but not got the same kind of effect, but shall definitely be following your method to get that lovely granulation and colour. Need first to check which pigments I already have of course. It is much easier where I am to get other brands affordable. I have not been disappointed in the DS primateks because I have had no unrealistic expectations of them, knowing a bit about how colours are made and sources. It is the aggressive overpriced marketing that gets me, it promises an experience and product of ineffable quality, and while they do interesting mixes, even some student ranges can also do that, and the advent of RS range shows it is mixing that is key, not brand. And that is a really interesting adventure that people should not be scared of embarking on. Learning about pigments is half the fun of watercolour and it has benefits that carry over into working with other mediums.
Thank you for being a bit of a beacon for us all. Your work will be informing people for a long while to come and picks up where others have left off, and you fill a much needed niche in knowledge.
Thank you for this information. Watching you paint is magical.
I’m really liking the bolder granulation of the Lunar Earth. Thanks for sharing these mixes🥰
I always love your videos. Your attention to details and shared knowledge it a real gift!
Thank you Kimberly for sharing your pigment studies with us! Always looking forward to seeing your videos!
such a beautiful bird painting❤️
Kimberly thank you so so much for these videos, I adore your mixes and your hard work. You deserve more views !
This is awesome! I've been eyeing those Primatek colors, good to know I can mix my own!
Wow I learned so much from your efforts putting together this video. Thank you!
thank you so much. I love your art.
This is so interesting, now I really want to go buy the Schmincke one and a coarse one, how beautiful, I just love it. Thanks so much for this video!
Thank you! Highly informative and it’s extremely therapeutic watching you execute wet on wet and listening to you 😊
Kimberly, thank you! Your videos are amazing and so thorough! I really appreciate them. And this one came with great timing too - I've been eyeing the PY119 lately. 😅
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experimentation!
I found it VERY helpful. I love your in depth analysis and breakdown of pigments and mixtures. Youve given me many great ideas. Im perusing your website and have found quite a few helpful products I will be purchasing shortly. Thanks so much for sharing your findings with us. :)
Thank you agian for an amazing video. You always provide so much information that is always helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to us especially me as I'm a complete newbie. Have a wonderful night!
Your videos are always so helpful, interesting, and informative! Iove Green Apatite but saw a few years ago about making a dupe with Lunar Earth. I use it all the time now with various green mixes to get just the shade I want! Thanks!
Ohhh this is right on point! I’ve been debating trying to re-create my green apitite and tigers eye since those are my two favorite DS and with all the kerfluffle going on might be fun to just create my own. i’m not sure if I will or not but this was so awesome to see! Thank you!
Ooh, I'll be getting the Roman Szmal paint to play with. Wish it came in a tube, but with some effort I might be able to depot it into my preferred palette (magnetic with shallow pans). I loved your mixing videos already, but this one is especially timely!
I haven't yet bought a PBr11 or PY119 yet as I couldn't decide, so this video is super helpful. Thankyou!
I'd recently tried the "Mineral" 😑 Marvel dot cards and I (quite like yourself) like the look of the serpentine "genuine"... So with knowing what we know now, not to mention how 𝗽𝗼𝗼𝗿𝗹𝘆 DS has handled the situation, I'll choose one of these browns and try your mixes here!
Thankyou for another wonderful video!👏🏻
I really adore texture and bright colors. Thanks for sharing your discoveries. Very helpful as thes are expensive paints. Found your channel on the Moonglow video. One of my favorite colors. Never thought it was possible to replicate the effect. Another possibility for artists is to sell prints of the original to ensure color quality will last. Love your videos!! Good food for thought.
thank you
Thank you!
Thank you very much.
While you make some good points and I’m not disputing that learning your pigments and knowing how to mix your paints to get a specific intended color needed can prove to be an incredibly beneficial skill/talent….however, many times it’s just easier and cheaper to just purchase that one color needed/wanted if you don’t already have, say, 2-5+ other pigments to mix together to try and make that one you need/want. I can see how this might be more convenient if you already have a whole stock pile of colors/pigments, but not everyone does especially those who are just starting to learn about mixing colors. There are so many possibilities to be able to mix that one preexisting color you want and get it right with much trial and error and while your charts can help guide those in the right direction, it’s not a sure way to still get that one color as even colors from tube to tube can vary slightly. Add in the various changes from company to company out there and they’re not all the same even if they’re using the same pigments to make their paints, it’s still not the same across the board. Point being is that sometime if IS just easier to buy the pair needed/wanted as the cost of buying several paints to make it, can be worth it more in the long run, especially if that one color can ALSO be used to help create other colors and build ip your palette as well!
Love your vids. Love granulation and separation.
Thank you! Granulation and color separation make watercolor painting feel downright magical :D
Got Magnesium Brown & Aquarius Brown in sale recently without really understanding how similar the two are & was a bit annoyed with myself. But now I can the w&n tube for mixes and cannot wait to experiment. Thanks for always being so incredibly through!
It's nice that they are different particle sizes, so they behave differently enough in mixtures to both be of value. Definitely better than if you had gotten both the Daniel Smith and Roman Szmal ones that look the same. Enjoy your mixture experiments! Happy painting :)
You are a life saver as always! I was considering getting either Green Apatite or Serpentine very recently, but ultimately decided against it because DS paints are crazy expensive here. I can't wait to give your mixes a try :D
Green apatite is worth every penny
I’m not quite sure but I believe your channel was recommended by Lindsay Wyrick the frugal crafter and I am so glad I came to check out your channel. Even though I would love to get over my fear of water coloring I am Fascinated by the make up of watercolors and pigments in and so on.
Amazing 😍 love ur videos 😍
PS ...thanks for doing what you do with the paints ...I thank you from the bottom of my hip pocket nerve !
Love
I got the Pbr11 but forgot this video. I wanted to make a "dirt mound" mountain (Dead sea area) and I remembered "granulation" and tried it with a pr101, and some qor orange pyrrole, varying tints of burnt sienna (no! this is hard on the eyes!), umbers, and _all the wrong colors_ and kept getting this radioactive-looking mixture I didn't know was possible with ...non-☢️ chemicals. So glad I came back to this serpentine video! It's quite lovely with the phthalo blue gs and especially with the payne's grey. I was about to launch this paint, but *really glad I found this video* (I'd be so upset had I thrown it out, only to learn that this is one of your mixture recipe paints!) 😂
What a mixing adventure! I'm so glad to hear I saved the poor PBr11 lol. It really is beautiful with blues, I just adore that paynes grey mixture. It's so helpful for mixing with greens too. Qor's orange pyrrole is a pretty intense color to use with it, thank you for the chuckle :D
Fantástico ❤
i've been thinking for a while now about making a little "extras" palette full of granulating colours so i can noodle about with texture and colour mixes. originally a bunch of primateks were on my list for it, but all things considered i might substitute them for more single pigment granulating colours, which i'm kind of relieved about because it saves my bank account a lot of grief! thank you so much for this video - i love the colour mixes and the comprehensive overviews of each pigment :>
Glad to help, I definitely wish I had saved my own bank account some grief lol :D
You give a lot of interesting info in a short time… must be focused at all time to get it all!…
PBr11 all the way 👍🏼
another very informative 8.5 minutes of pigmentCSI, many thanks. i tried a few ways to create the serpentine and didn't get very close. you have made it look easy, so very grateful for that. what i like with making the copies, is that serpentine can be the starting point for the effect, but then other pigments can be used and the amounts varied to create infinite end results. have you tried - or tried making a mix of - the new DS black... 7 (seven) pigment mix... must be a world record! and two of your 'favourites' r177, b27. at least when they fade, ds have built in 5 other pigments for the black to fall back on.
I can't tell you how disgusted I was to see that new McCracken Black.... I understand it's based off a very talented artists work.... BUT really, a SEVEN pigment mixture... with TWO FUGITIVES?! At this point I think we'd all agree to just mix any old color with a black pigment like PBk7 or PBk26 and be done with it :(
...very interested to see the DS equivalents because I noticed the green apatite when it was first displayed in an art shop...shock-horror , under normal fluoro lighting , it faded in 6 months ! A test strip of rhodonite of my own also faded. I am not too keen to spend any more money on the primateks. Cheers.
Those are lovely colour mixtures, I can't decide if I like the smoother or the more granulating ones better. But maybe I don't have to? I don't have any Spinellbrown on my palette yet (Though it's on my list, the Schmincke ones are the easiest to come by here in Germany, Rembrandts, Van Goghs, too, and Roman Szmals maybe as well, if I'm lucky), though it's on my list. What I got, though, is their maroon and mahogany browns and those seem like they might be fun to dabble around with as well :3
I love Mahogany Brown, it makes beautiful mixtures!
Kim.... I recently made a Jackson's purchase. I'm a little disappointed I didn't see this video before. XD (oh wait, your video's been published a day ago. Nevermind)
I've purchased Schminckes Mahogany brown exactly to replicate one of their super granulating colours. Buying Daniel Smith paints when not living in the US feels a little prohibitively expensive for me, so next time I buy paint, I'll buy the Aquarius version :) if this man Roman Szmal starts selling his paints as tubes, the watercolorists will explode because his paints are a gold mine between good paint and affordability.
I would love to see Roman Szmal make tube paints.... I feel like that brand is doing well enough, it's only a matter of time (then we'll all be broke!) lol :D
this is amazing! I bought the Green Apatite because there were so many good reviews about this paint online, but it was very expensive. Glad this can be mixed so easily! The most expensive one I own is Sodalite, of which the texture is just wonderful! It seems like a granulating Payne's Grey. I wonder if you have tried to mix that one.
I'm working on it! My first couple tries looked the best when using Schmincke's French Ultramarine - the most granulating highly textural PB29 I could find. I'm just working out which will be the best secondary color, possibly one of the different particle sized PBk11 Lunar Black/Black Iron Oxide. I'll be sure to make a video once I get the closest replica down :)
@@KimberlyCrick thanks! I'll be interested to see your other mixes. After seeing DS' "statement" yesterday on Instagram, the genuine mineral paints seem not so genuine after all
Hey, there's that PY 153 from Sennelier you mentioned to me last week! It sure looks different than the old New Gamboge though!
Definitely different than the old gamboge versions for sure, but really functions well as a mid yellow primary :)
Hi. I recently discovered your channel and am so glad I did. Do you have advice on the best starter set of single pigments to build the more versatile set of colours? I have a decent mix of Van Gogh and some W&N in half pans and have made a complete mixing grid with them all. What I'd love to know are your suggestions for the ultimate single pigment list. I know I'm missing a few, like PY150 and after seeing this video, I'm likely to ad PBr11 to it as well. I'd also love to know what pigments you'd recommend for a cool and warm colour wheel using six primaries instead of three. and thanks to your videos, I ended up buying the24 set of Finetec pearlescent colours and they sent me two free additional colours. I would order from your site but I'm in Europe and the cost of shipping and customs charges is atrocious. Thank you for your dedication and instructive videos! They really are a revelation for me and make building my collection really fun. Blessings to you and to all.
Yes, I've been posting notes with swatches of my favorite colors to build a versatile mixing set. I definitely advise buying certain pigments vs brands or pre made sets. White Nights has many of the options very affordably. My list of top pigments page can be found at www.kimcrick.com/pages/top-lightfast-watercolor-pigments - hope that helps! Happy painting :)
@@KimberlyCrick Thanks for your quick reply. I haven't visited your site yet so will do so as I continue adding to my wish list!
Thank you for your great review! But I only have Schminke’s mahogany brown at hand. I‘m wondering that if pbr33 can be a substitute for pbr11/py119 by adding a touch of yellow?
I love Mahogany brown, it makes its own unique lovely mixtures. While not quite the same, you may find you enjoy the mixtures it creates - no harm in playing around with them! I would think any yellow you add will move with the lighter weight/fine particle colors and not clump with the brown in wet washes, so I doubt it will be able to replace the way PBr11 looks. You may end up getting additional color separation though since Mahogany has so many underlying colors compared to PBr11. Happy painting :)
With regard to Jadeite and Diopside, those two appear to be Nitroso Green PG8, which is carried by few manufacturers, such as White Nights and Shinhan.
While I love the color of PG8 and you could use it to replace green mixtures, I wouldn't for art to sell/hang on a wall. Jadeite and Diopside can be replicated with lightfast pigments instead. These mineral colors are lightfast unlike PG8 which is fugitive, especially when diluted. You can definitely make some convincing replicas using PG8 or more stable blue/yellow combinations, but if you use Nitroso PG8 to do so your washes will have some fading over time.
@@KimberlyCrick I’m aware! That’s probably why so few pigment manufacturers use it :P But still... I kinda wish Daniel Smith said their paints were... idk inspired by genuine minerals? Or had trace amounts of them? Because it’s very much giving “chasing the high of being the only manufacturer with Quinacridone Gold”, except now the primatek line just looks like a useless marketing stunt for a group of painters who would not have cared if they just came out and called it what it is right off the bat :/
Thank you for these very useful tests. I've seen somewhere that WN mislabeled its Magnesium Brown PY119 instead of PBr11. Your tests seem to confirm that information.
This was very interesting, thank you Kimberly! I have a question for you. I have the whole Primatek line and as far as I recall they all lift pretty easily. How can this be if DS have used phthalos and dioxazine in some of the paints, as those are heavily staining? Am I missing something here?
While I don't personally know if they used much, or to what percent of the paint on average batch to batch, of staining pigments - but there are a couple factors. Phthalo Blue and Green are actually naturally granulating and lifting when milled coarsely. Because the flocculating texture is overall considered undesirable for Phthalo pigments, it is purposefully ground to very very fine particles and sometimes chemically treated to force it to be smooth flowing. It's possible that Daniel Smith included more coarse versions of these pigments and that is why they appear to both lift easily and granulate.
As a side note, depending on paper used, this can mean that even what we typically think of as a staining pigment comes up pretty easily with a damp brush. When people are comparing degrees of staining which paper was used is really important to know. Cold press papers with a durable amount of surface sizing (usually gelatin coating) like Arches or Winsor and Newton brand papers allow colors to be lifted much easier than cotton papers with less internal sizing or that are more absorbent, allowing color to soak in better. Cellulose/sketchbook or even student/bargain grade cotton/blend papers vary greatly, with lifting being nearly impossible on Bee brand, but easy with even staining colors on Moleskine books for instance. Hope that helps :)
I just double checked my swatch cards and see that at least Green Apatite, Jadeite and Diopside are actually all very staining. Ones like Sodalite, Burnt Tiger's Eye and higher texture seem to lift easily.
@@KimberlyCrick Thank you so much for taking the time to write a reply. I think I understand this a bit better now!
@@KimberlyCrick Aha, I might remember wrong then! Must check my own paints again. But this is interesting, and with what I'm learning from you and what's been uncovered the past days I'm not surprised there might be cheaper pigments in their mixes. I'm just a bit dissapointed I fell for the marketing hype. But on the other hand I'm so happy I can now learn to mix my own! :)
speaking about mixing your own colors... i'm thinking about getting either perylene maroon or violet, only one of them, but im not sure which
i have a hunch you can mix the maroon with a magenta or blue (maybe indanthrone) to get the violet, and mixing the violet with a mid red should get you the maroon but im not sure cause i dont have either of them to test my theory, could you help me with this?
I think you might find perylene maroon a little more useful than violet, especially if you do rose red type florals. Both colors have a little bit of an annoying wet to dry dull shift. I've noticed a little bit of texture issues and sometimes fading in brands of perylene violet, so it's not a go to color for me. I imagine the need probably varies depending on the subject matter you paint. The maroon mixed with a touch of purple like dioxazine looks pretty similar to the violet, but yes indanthrone likely works too! Sometimes I find myself reaching for a neutral tint to mix with my normal reds/magenta (PR254/PR122) to darken them instead.
i managed to mix them both, using my schmincke dot card for reference, with my cotman set using burnt umber and burnt sienna and a purple
sadly the purple is a repurposed led of a watercolor pencil that in mass tone is between quin purple and manganese violet but diluted looks like quin violet, is a beautiful purple but a pain to look for a replacement
I still think I made the right call when I bought 2 primateks, but only because they're colours that really work for me, they were available in sticks, and there was a sale making them about the same price as a halfpan or 5ml tube of other brands.
Other than that, there's some gorgeous colours in the line, but the price is crazy and the way the brand deals with their customers and paints and, well all that, that's pretty gross imo.
Yeah, I've bought a couple in sticks too since they were way more affordable that way... but there's a couple colors that are crazy expensive. I personally love mixing colors, and feel limited when I don't have the individual components to mix things, but at the same time I can appreciate the beauty of convenience mixtures. If I thought I'd use one particular color frequently, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it to save me the trouble of trying to replicate it. I do however, like you, think DS behavior has been a bit gross and dismissive about both lightfastness and ingredient disclosure issues.
You really help me save money here :D should Schmincke iron oxide brown give similar results ?
If you're asking if the Spinel Brown PY119 will give similar results, it will be much smoother than the PBr11 from DSmith or RSzmal. None of their other browns will result in this much texture or color separation.
@@KimberlyCrick ok cool thank you :) now thanks to you I only have single pigments on my list =)
@@KimberlyCrick one last question if I may : i love helio turquoise but I also like phthalo blue gs. I think only buying one of them makes sense. You seem to prefer pthalho blue. Can I just use helio as well ? :) and thanks for what you do ! I am really amazed at all the work you put into it. So helpful. Appreciated.
@@hedonismbot3274 Well the mixtures you'd get by using PB16 helio will be slightly more muted and a touch more green leaning than using PB15:3 pbgs. I agree you don't really need both. I choose PB15:3 because it provides the clean vibrant mixtures I expect from a near cyan primary blue. I like the neutral grays and near black mixtures it predictably creates with other pigments I have on my palette, as well as the stunning vibrant purples PB15:3 makes when combined with magenta PR122. If you already own a phthalo green pg7, you might find that adding a touch of green into the phthalo blue gs makes it look very similar to PB16. No matter what you decide - since both are strong phthalo based blues, you really can't go wrong with either choice (you might just find your own favorite mixtures!).
@@KimberlyCrick awesome thanks so much :) i will take the phthalo blue one I guess. I have viridian from mijello. Should also work. I am sitting for two weeks on my order now and still figuring out what is best :)) now i basically just added all the granulating schmincke colors after watching your videos and removed the daniel smith and super granulation mixes. I think I will have a lot of fun with them and will go through your videos again. Anyways thanks again ! =)
I think the only thumbs down are from DS!😏
Great video! I will definitively be doing this once I finish the tubes I have. Unfortunately DS's deceptive practices have stymied my great love for their paints. Now I know I can recreate my own thanks to you. ❤️🙏
I bought the green apatite, jadite and serpentine primatek colors last year when I was looking for convenience greens for landscape paintings. I’m not going to try to duplicate the colors because I go through lots of green. Frankly, even the series 5 primateks are less expensive at Dick Blick than the super granulating Schminke tubes everyone is going crazy about so I don’t see a price problem with the Primatek paints.
If you're looking at imported products, I would not price compare at Blick (they pass a lot of extra fees to the customer when they import goods from outside of the USA). At this time primatek colors on Blick average $14 to $20 per 15ml (discounted from about $30 retail). Schmincke's granulating on Jacksons are $14 on sale from $17 per 15ml (Jackson's is the appropriate shop for price comparing non US brands). Both are lovely paints, but there are cheaper alternatives for both (such as DaVinci USA, Roman Szmal for pans or White Nights for tubes available worldwide). A lot of the people who can't justify Daniel Smith prices are outside of the USA, where the cost reaches $20-$30 per tube. Holbein, Shinhan and Paul Rubens average $3 to $9 per 15ml in other countries. Blick does not have affordable worldwide shipping, but we are lucky because we can buy things pretty reasonably to deliver here in the USA from Jackson's UK. You can get White Nights for about $3 to $4 /10ml tube (or less per color cost when buying pan sets). By mixing in PBr11 into cheap common colors you could avoid buying at least 5 different mineral paints at their higher than average paint cost. Many people are likely to already own a general selection of mixing colors, which means the initial investment could be substantially higher to also get assorted minerals. Some brands per-ml cost is really cheap too, like the 37ml options in DaVinci, where you could still get a ton of paint at a time for comparing per-ml costs. If you haven't checked out Jackson's online art store before, I definitely recommend it even for just price comparing or browsing hard to find brands like Lukas. White Nights though - check out these prices: www.jacksonsart.com/en-us/st-petersburg-white-nights-watercolour?___store=jacksonsart_us&acc=c0f168ce8900fa56e57789e2a2f2c9d0
I have a Dick Blick and two really good independent art stores within 10 miles of my house so I have no need to buy online.
I would love artists like you to paint out a swatch of Amazonite Genuine and a swatch of phthalocyanine green and check their staining abilities. Then, review worldpigmentday's claim that Amazonite Genuine is "made up of over 90% phthalocyanine green" (direct quote from her Instagram post evaluation of Amazonite Genuine).
IF it Amazonite Genuine were made up of over 90% phthalo green, would you be able to lift it? Amazonite Genuine is a 1 on the staining scale. Phthalo green is a 4. Amazonite Genuine is completely able to be lifted, phthalo green is NOT! It even stains plastic palettes extensively. It's like a pigment on steroids.
Then, please notice all worlpigmentday's evaluations have claims that DS substitutes the minerals they put in the paint with a majority of pigments that are much higher staining. Every Primatek paint is either a 1 or 2 on the staining scale.
How is that possible? If you think as I do it's simply NOT possible, why aren't we calling worldpigmentday out for this? Just because she says she's an expert doesn't mean she is. Anyone who claims to be an expert on pigments and is unaware of the staining strength of phthalo pigments isn't much of an expert, are they?
While I can't say what percent of content is or isn't genuine on a chemical level, and my focus is purely on how easy it is to diy mix your own replica mixtures, I have seen the same pigment code perform extremely differently by brand - especially when working with pigment powders for handmade paint making. Try to keep in mind that all pigments vary in how much they stain based on pigment particle size. The smaller the particles the more they stain. The more coarse/less finely ground a pigment powder is before turning it into paint, the more chance for granulation and lifting. Both Phthalo Blue and Green are normally extremely granulating pigments that are specially treated and processed until they are very smooth and fine to try to change this property. There are also binder additives that alter the staining/paleness/gummy nature of paints, like gansai, which make any color lift easier. Not saying that this is or isn't the case here, but rather that I keep an open mind when considering it.