Good tip on for adding weight to your practice nocks. I too use nocturnal lighted nocks, but instead of doing all of that extra stuff to add the weight! I just use nocturnals as my practice nocks also wrap my arrows. Basically my practice set up is exactly like my hunting setup and when the batteries die i keep them and use the old ones on my future arrow setups. Save the extra work and guessing game, just my tip!. Keep up the good work!
The timing of this video is unreal! I was looking for information on this just yesterday and didn't find what i was looking for. Thanks for this video, explains everything i was questioning and how to fix my problem!
Already subscribed! Love watching your videos they are awesome! You and your partner. He’s great. He’s very good at teaching. I’m a newbie so I’m learning as much as I can. Thanks 🙏🏽
Another easier option is tungsten putty with a dab of super glue. We use tungsten putty for getting that 1 grain needed for pinewood derby cars in cub Scouts. Could be glued into the nock in the exact amount needed.
I tried nocturnals this year on 4mm axis. They are bright, fly straight, and only weigh 20grains. Down side they work very inconsistently when shot in hunting situations. Some did not light. Some lit then stopped working. Most flew out of the shaft after impact. I agree weight consistency is important. Fit and size etc are also so I would just use some of the nocturnals for practicing so everything is consistent. After many shots at game I concluded they are not worth the trouble. I am using bohning 4" reflective wraps this year. I have heard the 4mm nocturnals are issues for others as well. Maybe the 5mm are more reliable. My 2cents. Great shooting Josh.
I have heard many of the .166 ID lighted nocks have had issues as well. I know some companies have redone them over time to make them stronger, but it sounds like problems still exist. I can’t speak for the .166 lighted nocks personally as I have not used them, but we have not had any issues with the .204 or larger lighted nocks that we’ve used.
I’ve been doing the same for years using baling wire twisted and glued. It’s really easy to cut small amounts and bend afterward making sure it fits and weighs exactly what you want. Just make sure to clean the wire with acetone or another solvent to get any oil off. Great video.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Give it a try. Just found your page and subbed here and on IG. Really like your content. Keep it up! Maybe I’ll see you guys at the Texas TAC or something sometime!
We’ve had great luck with nocturnals in arrows that are .204 (size X) or bigger. For the .166 arrows (size G) I’ve yet to find a lighted nock dependable in that size. Some guys have no problems with them, but if you’re shooting relatively higher poundage, I’ve seen and heard of issues with nock durability. May have to test several brands to see what’s best for your set up.
Buy firenocks. Best lightened nock period. It takes a extra 2 mins to glue in the end caps, but ive been using the same 1's for years. I never had 1 fail or break unless I hit it with another arrow.
Video idea here. Total archery challenges are on the way :) I’ll be attending my first 2 events ever. My question/ video idea is could you guys do a video on your arrow setups and how you prepare your bows for a total archery challenge event? Im a big fan enjoy all your videos it’s awesome to watch you guys grow thanks for all you do :)
All kinds of stuff you can do to an arrow to make it stronger, and heavier, or match the weights per shaft. I put weed eater string in my sons shafts to add weight without affecting spine. Also " footed" some shafts where i take a precut, pre weighed piece of 2117 aluminum shaft and slide on the front of his carbon arrow , glue in place to add weight up front and make a super strong arrow that drives deep from his 40lb compound bow. He has some arrows that have 235+ grains up front , a 100gr 2117 sleeve glued above a crazy sharp 135gr zwickey 2 blade head. They bare shaft a bullet hole through paper , fly as true as any arrow I've ever built and they blow through deer like buttah...
if you switch to pin nocks the wieght of those and the bushings are within a couple of grains of the nockturnals. for 6mm and 6.5 arrows they make practice nocks that wiegh the same.
My question is, if you go with an illuminated nock, do you need to increase your broadhead weight by the difference the illuminated nock weighs? So your illuminated nock weighed 14gr more, if using a 100gr broadhead, do you need to increase your broadhead weight to 114gr?
No, you will only want to match the weight on the nock end as changing the weight on the point end will make the dynamic spine of the arrow react weaker.
The problem I see here is by "screwing" the screw into the nock, you run a fairly high risk of compromising the integrity of the nock. Cracked nocks lead to dry fired bows. It's a risky modification for a slight gain. Alternatively, you could just wrap some black electrical tape around the back of the shaft, equaling the 15 grains.
That is a valid concern! Thankfully, over the last two years of testing this with the easton X nocks, this has not been an issue. Don’t over tighten the screw into the nock. Turn it just enough to lock the screw in so the glue can bond to it.
One other thing you can do is just use old nocturnals that no longer light up. After a season of shooting I had 6 whose batteries had died out. So I just used those for practice and the switched them out for ones with fresh batteries when the time came to head up into the stand. The weight doesn't change once the power is out.
The X-Nocks fit very closely to the X-nock Nocturnals but are slightly looser. You do not need to adjust the D-loop between nocks as long as you have your nock sets for your nocking point tied in correctly.
We appreciate the support! We’ve tested both 3 and 4 fletch quite a bit and especially for field points on 3D targets, 3 fletch work just fine! Neither Josh nor I have actually shot 4 fletch for 3D or hunting as 3 fletch gives us all the correction and steering we need for the broadheads we shoot. We both use AAE Max Stealth as well. - Micah
15 grains is not that much of a deviation. my easton arrows are all black carbon and are under 400 grain my new camo accmos arrowes are 160 grains more wieght same spine weight is the full length wrap at that,.. back weight by the way causes arrow to pitch down forcing tip up and tip weight does the reverse so the weight you add needs to be even front to back however that still causes a drop of POI but they goes in straight as a laser so reset elevation and your ready to rock.. im no bow expert but ihave studyed this still alot and i do mean alot.
My problem with lighted nocks isn't the drop, I can adjust for that. My problem is the grouping. As soon as I put lighted nocks on my groups open up big time. Looks like y'all were having the same issue in this video
Adding weight to the front will increase the drop , with a fixed blade boadhead, compared to adding the same weight to the back. Increasing F.O.C wit fixed blade broadheads, wiil produce more drop, because of the wind planing, of the fixed blades. Its not an issue with fieldpoints, or expandables..
I did something very similar with pieces of a wire hanger and got my weights the same. My actual lighted nocks hit about 3 inches to the left of my weighted standard nocks. Any thoughts why this might be? I don’t think I’m getting nock pinch
Really not sure why they would be impacting left of your standard nocks. Only thing I can think of that’s different otherwise is the throat of your standard nocks being different than your lighted nocks.
Exactly! That is why we add the weight in the nocks which have proved to impact exactly the same with our set up so we have no variables. Just a simple way to achieve the same point of impact without spending the money on expensive lighted nocks.
Two issues you did not cover. One do the 2 different nocks fit on your serving exactly the same? Two, are the nocks fitting the arrow shaft correctly? Will the nock bend to the side at all, is it truly stable on the arrow? Its more than just weight, its about how the arrow and nock and serving work together between the different nocks. Better yet, just spend the money and shoot the same setup you will hunt with.
You are absolutely right! It is more than just weight, but the other factors are close enough to the standard nocks that weight has the biggest impact. What we show here is a way to fix the biggest variable by making the weight of the nocks the same and although the nock fit is slightly different, they still impact the same/much closer than with the weight difference since they are not overly tight or loose on the string. The best option is absolutely to shoot the exact same set up that you would hunt with, but this is just another cheaper option to help you get the same results without spending all of the extra money on lighted nocks.
Ethics archery products sells sleeves, then you don't have to worry about a screw coming loose. I just shoot all lumenoks in all my arrows. Just buy replacement batteries
This is the way I go. Use old dead lighted nocks for practice. Doing it with different nocks u could run into issue with nock fit on the string. I noticed x nocks are usually a little tighter on the string. Also nock pinch the nocturnals u have to have more room between the nocks sets. All of that could cause issues.
It definitely all makes a difference and you make some great points! With the X-nocks, we've found the weight to be the biggest variable with consistency in shooting the two. The nock fit is very slightly looser, but it doesn't seem to change point of impact with our weighted nocks out to 100 yards. With that said, the more consistent you can have them, the better!
One cautionary note: I did have a stock X nock that “looked kinda funny”, as in, it wasn’t shaped quite right inside the arrow. Didn’t think anything of it at the time. And wouldn’t you know, evidently it leaked some super glue inside my arrow shaft, so now I’m careful lying trying to hand-drill the darn super glued brass screw out of the end of my arrow! Lesson? Be super careful to keep the super glue INSIDE the nock, and don’t get any inside your arrow shaft. Also, I dry my arrows point side down over night so gravity pulls the super glue down into the nock, and keeps it from potentially leaking onto my arrow shaft. Real pain if it does! Oh, and don’t use a nock that “looks kinda funny”. Replace it with a perfect one.😂
I meant to say “dry nock side down.” Point side down would make the glue run out, obviously. I point the tip up for a few hours to be sure the glue stays where I want it until it is good and dry.
Because that effects the spine of the arrow too much. If the lighted nock weighed 25 grains more than a regular nock, then yes, a 125 grain point on a standard nock would drop just as much as a 100 grain point with a lighted nock since the mass weight would be the same. Since you are introducing that weight to the front of the arrow instead of the rear, you are causing the dynamic spine of the arrow shaft to act weaker.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors yeah, spine is some messed up stuff. I am right on the line between a 400 and 350 spine by 1 pound of draw weight, or 1 inch shorter arrow. I'm shooting 400 spine and adding 25gr to the front will put me over. I already backed off my draw weight 9 pounds and am at a 28 inch draw instead of 30, so I am somewhere around 59 pounds. I would like to shoot 70 or higher for more speed and less drop ,but the bow seems to shoot the most accurate at this setting with these arrows than with the 300s at 70 for not that much overall gain. I had rather have the superior accuracy.
Come on let's be realistic here the maximum distance your average bow hunter shoots is 40 yards, shooting at 60 to 100 yards for demonstrating is kinda ridiculous.
You’re right, for most bowhunters this won’t matter. At 40 yards, we found it to make roughly a 3” difference in impact. We showed the example at 100 yards to show the amount of drop between the standard nock and the lighted nock simply because of the weight between the two. 3” may not seem like a lot, but it may be the difference between an ethical kill, or wounding the animal. For those that want more out of themselves and out of their set up, this is a cheap and easy fix. For those that don’t, that’s ok too.
Appreciate your view, but being a New Mexico hunter, this makes a ton of sense. Most of my shots at elk over the years have been outside of 50yds. Yes, for whitetail I see your point. But Josh and Micah, and a lot of us, hardly ever hunt whitetail, but chase elk every year, if we get drawn. And the ranges get long fast out here. This weight difference always bugged me, and I’m happy to get my weights identical between my off season arrows, and my lighted nock arrows. Great tip, guys, keep’em coming.
Look its not the weight though true! What you say about the difference in weight is 100% correct, but you proved it in your video by showing your groups that the X nocks are far more consistent just by the group tightness. Your lighted nocks had a far less consistent groups than the X nock. I have been in the industry over 30 yrs. The only way to get lighted nocks to be consistent is purchase whatever brand you want with extras, and nock tune with your hunting setup meaning broadhead, vanes, nocks, bow, and poundage everything you will hunt with at what you think your effective range is and that is it. When whitetail hunting at shorter distances 20 to 40 or even 50 yds not a huge issue, but out west with a short shot being 50yds and normal shots of up to 80 to 100 yds on game it can be a bigger issue. By the way good group at 100yds. Lighted nocks are less consistent due to the clearances needed in most for switch activation were standard nocks do not need or have these clearances. I do understand for sure the use of lighted nocks, and they work great on camera for sure but the pretty arrow flight views do come at a cost. It been proven many times lighted nocks are far more inconsistent. Great video!
You are absolutely right, lighted nocks just aren’t as consistent as the factory X nocks that Easton makes. This is just one way to get them to impact a little closer by countering the weight variance. Thanks for sharing!
Good tip on for adding weight to your practice nocks. I too use nocturnal lighted nocks, but instead of doing all of that extra stuff to add the weight! I just use nocturnals as my practice nocks also wrap my arrows. Basically my practice set up is exactly like my hunting setup and when the batteries die i keep them and use the old ones on my future arrow setups. Save the extra work and guessing game, just my tip!. Keep up the good work!
Such a simple idea how did I not think of this, oh well they say you learn something new every day cheers for sharing...
The timing of this video is unreal! I was looking for information on this just yesterday and didn't find what i was looking for. Thanks for this video, explains everything i was questioning and how to fix my problem!
Awesome! I'm glad that you found it and that we were able to help!
Already subscribed! Love watching your videos they are awesome! You and your partner. He’s great. He’s very good at teaching. I’m a newbie so I’m learning as much as I can. Thanks 🙏🏽
Another easier option is tungsten putty with a dab of super glue. We use tungsten putty for getting that 1 grain needed for pinewood derby cars in cub Scouts. Could be glued into the nock in the exact amount needed.
I tried nocturnals this year on 4mm axis. They are bright, fly straight, and only weigh 20grains. Down side they work very inconsistently when shot in hunting situations. Some did not light. Some lit then stopped working. Most flew out of the shaft after impact. I agree weight consistency is important. Fit and size etc are also so I would just use some of the nocturnals for practicing so everything is consistent. After many shots at game I concluded they are not worth the trouble. I am using bohning 4" reflective wraps this year. I have heard the 4mm nocturnals are issues for others as well. Maybe the 5mm are more reliable. My 2cents. Great shooting Josh.
I have heard many of the .166 ID lighted nocks have had issues as well. I know some companies have redone them over time to make them stronger, but it sounds like problems still exist. I can’t speak for the .166 lighted nocks personally as I have not used them, but we have not had any issues with the .204 or larger lighted nocks that we’ve used.
Bb’s and super glue worked perfect for me. Weighed it all out and 3 bbs in my standard nock matches my Lumenok.
Great idea for those running the S nock or a larger nock! The BB’s will not fit in the X nock or smaller nocks.
I’ve been doing the same for years using baling wire twisted and glued. It’s really easy to cut small amounts and bend afterward making sure it fits and weighs exactly what you want. Just make sure to clean the wire with acetone or another solvent to get any oil off. Great video.
That is a great alternative! Thanks for the comment
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Give it a try. Just found your page and subbed here and on IG. Really like your content. Keep it up! Maybe I’ll see you guys at the Texas TAC or something sometime!
Perfect. Thank you!
I've been trying to figure this out and it's so easy. Thanks for the knowledge dump guys. Keep it coming!
Happy to share!
Thanks for the information been looking for some information one this.
I would give this 10 likes if I could. Great concept and great explanation of it. Keep it up guys!
Thank you so much!
On .204 and .166, I cool melt hit inserts in the back to get the weight exact.
Good tip..!
What lighted nock would you recommend for micro diameter arrows..?
We’ve had great luck with nocturnals in arrows that are .204 (size X) or bigger. For the .166 arrows (size G) I’ve yet to find a lighted nock dependable in that size. Some guys have no problems with them, but if you’re shooting relatively higher poundage, I’ve seen and heard of issues with nock durability. May have to test several brands to see what’s best for your set up.
Solid tip thanks
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Lumenok and Nockturnal should sell some weighted nocks that aren’t electronic. Just plain nocks that match their nock’s weight.
I just use dead nocturnals for practice so everything is exactly the same. The throats are different between all the brands
Buy firenocks. Best lightened nock period. It takes a extra 2 mins to glue in the end caps, but ive been using the same 1's for years. I never had 1 fail or break unless I hit it with another arrow.
Video idea here. Total archery challenges are on the way :) I’ll be attending my first 2 events ever. My question/ video idea is could you guys do a video on your arrow setups and how you prepare your bows for a total archery challenge event? Im a big fan enjoy all your videos it’s awesome to watch you guys grow thanks for all you do :)
Thanks for the idea, we greatly appreciate the support!!
Where can I get the rubber slabs you have there for your target?
All kinds of stuff you can do to an arrow to make it stronger, and heavier, or match the weights per shaft.
I put weed eater string in my sons shafts to add weight without affecting spine.
Also " footed" some shafts where i take a precut, pre weighed piece of 2117 aluminum shaft and slide on the front of his carbon arrow , glue in place to add weight up front and make a super strong arrow that drives deep from his 40lb compound bow.
He has some arrows that have 235+ grains up front , a 100gr 2117 sleeve glued above a crazy sharp 135gr zwickey 2 blade head.
They bare shaft a bullet hole through paper , fly as true as any arrow I've ever built and they blow through deer like buttah...
if you switch to pin nocks the wieght of those and the bushings are within a couple of grains of the nockturnals. for 6mm and 6.5 arrows they make practice nocks that wiegh the same.
Another great option to do it for sure! I found the pin bushing and pin nocks to weigh less as well. Usually around 16-18 grains total.
NuFletch lighted nocks!! 👌perfect
Awesome! Have not tested them yet, but may have to try them out!
Just sight in with the setup you’re planning to shoot..?
Why don't the lighted knock manufacturers make practice knocks? I would definitely buy them! Great video and camera quality!
Nockturnals do and also woodys starburst lighted nocks do
My question is, if you go with an illuminated nock, do you need to increase your broadhead weight by the difference the illuminated nock weighs? So your illuminated nock weighed 14gr more, if using a 100gr broadhead, do you need to increase your broadhead weight to 114gr?
No, you will only want to match the weight on the nock end as changing the weight on the point end will make the dynamic spine of the arrow react weaker.
The problem I see here is by "screwing" the screw into the nock, you run a fairly high risk of compromising the integrity of the nock. Cracked nocks lead to dry fired bows. It's a risky modification for a slight gain. Alternatively, you could just wrap some black electrical tape around the back of the shaft, equaling the 15 grains.
That is a valid concern! Thankfully, over the last two years of testing this with the easton X nocks, this has not been an issue. Don’t over tighten the screw into the nock. Turn it just enough to lock the screw in so the glue can bond to it.
Can you do a video emphasizing drag vs weight?
Drag vs weight. Showing group size changes between arrows a few grains off and arrows with more drag?
One other thing you can do is just use old nocturnals that no longer light up. After a season of shooting I had 6 whose batteries had died out. So I just used those for practice and the switched them out for ones with fresh batteries when the time came to head up into the stand. The weight doesn't change once the power is out.
That works great as well!
Does the standard nock fit the same on your string as the nocturnal? Do you need to adjust the D-loop between nocks?
The X-Nocks fit very closely to the X-nock Nocturnals but are slightly looser. You do not need to adjust the D-loop between nocks as long as you have your nock sets for your nocking point tied in correctly.
Hi guys I love your videos, AAE Max Stealth on Easton Axis 5mm (400 spine). Do you recommend 3 or 4 fletch for 3D?
We appreciate the support! We’ve tested both 3 and 4 fletch quite a bit and especially for field points on 3D targets, 3 fletch work just fine! Neither Josh nor I have actually shot 4 fletch for 3D or hunting as 3 fletch gives us all the correction and steering we need for the broadheads we shoot. We both use AAE Max Stealth as well. - Micah
Try using bb s or shot out of a shotshell with epoxy . Little bit easier
15 grains is not that much of a deviation. my easton arrows are all black carbon and are under 400 grain my new camo accmos arrowes are 160 grains more wieght same spine weight is the full length wrap at that,.. back weight by the way causes arrow to pitch down forcing tip up and tip weight does the reverse so the weight you add needs to be even front to back however that still causes a drop of POI but they goes in straight as a laser so reset elevation and your ready to rock.. im no bow expert but ihave studyed this still alot and i do mean alot.
My problem with lighted nocks isn't the drop, I can adjust for that. My problem is the grouping. As soon as I put lighted nocks on my groups open up big time. Looks like y'all were having the same issue in this video
There’s definitely some inconsistencies with them for sure. We still feel they help more than hurt bowhunters.
Adding weight to the front will increase the drop , with a fixed blade boadhead, compared to adding the same weight to the back. Increasing F.O.C wit fixed blade broadheads, wiil produce more drop, because of the wind planing, of the fixed blades. Its not an issue with fieldpoints, or expandables..
what wraps are you running?
Onestringer! Link is in the description
I did something very similar with pieces of a wire hanger and got my weights the same. My actual lighted nocks hit about 3 inches to the left of my weighted standard nocks. Any thoughts why this might be? I don’t think I’m getting nock pinch
Really not sure why they would be impacting left of your standard nocks. Only thing I can think of that’s different otherwise is the throat of your standard nocks being different than your lighted nocks.
Your lighted nocks are about 1/4 in longer, it changes the dynamic spine.
For being a simple stick arrow dynamics are damn complex.
so you sight in and shoot what you hunt with. WHY would you add variables in practice ?
Exactly! That is why we add the weight in the nocks which have proved to impact exactly the same with our set up so we have no variables. Just a simple way to achieve the same point of impact without spending the money on expensive lighted nocks.
Two issues you did not cover. One do the 2 different nocks fit on your serving exactly the same? Two, are the nocks fitting the arrow shaft correctly? Will the nock bend to the side at all, is it truly stable on the arrow? Its more than just weight, its about how the arrow and nock and serving work together between the different nocks. Better yet, just spend the money and shoot the same setup you will hunt with.
You are absolutely right! It is more than just weight, but the other factors are close enough to the standard nocks that weight has the biggest impact. What we show here is a way to fix the biggest variable by making the weight of the nocks the same and although the nock fit is slightly different, they still impact the same/much closer than with the weight difference since they are not overly tight or loose on the string. The best option is absolutely to shoot the exact same set up that you would hunt with, but this is just another cheaper option to help you get the same results without spending all of the extra money on lighted nocks.
Ethics archery products sells sleeves, then you don't have to worry about a screw coming loose. I just shoot all lumenoks in all my arrows. Just buy replacement batteries
I would also imagine that you can buy lead at the sports shop and cut off to the exact weight????
Yes as long as it’s the appropriate weight and fits securely in the nock the material doesn’t necessarily matter!
Pro tip
Use lighted nicks at all times and there is no variance.
Simply keep lighted nocks that don't light up for practice use.
Done.
Definitely the best way to do it if you can afford it!
This is the way I go. Use old dead lighted nocks for practice. Doing it with different nocks u could run into issue with nock fit on the string. I noticed x nocks are usually a little tighter on the string. Also nock pinch the nocturnals u have to have more room between the nocks sets. All of that could cause issues.
It definitely all makes a difference and you make some great points! With the X-nocks, we've found the weight to be the biggest variable with consistency in shooting the two. The nock fit is very slightly looser, but it doesn't seem to change point of impact with our weighted nocks out to 100 yards. With that said, the more consistent you can have them, the better!
One cautionary note: I did have a stock X nock that “looked kinda funny”, as in, it wasn’t shaped quite right inside the arrow. Didn’t think anything of it at the time. And wouldn’t you know, evidently it leaked some super glue inside my arrow shaft, so now I’m careful lying trying to hand-drill the darn super glued brass screw out of the end of my arrow!
Lesson? Be super careful to keep the super glue INSIDE the nock, and don’t get any inside your arrow shaft. Also, I dry my arrows point side down over night so gravity pulls the super glue down into the nock, and keeps it from potentially leaking onto my arrow shaft. Real pain if it does! Oh, and don’t use a nock that “looks kinda funny”. Replace it with a perfect one.😂
Great additional tip! Thanks for sharing
I meant to say “dry nock side down.” Point side down would make the glue run out, obviously. I point the tip up for a few hours to be sure the glue stays where I want it until it is good and dry.
Why not just use 125 points instead of 100 etc.
Since you said it doesn't matter where the weight is
Because that effects the spine of the arrow too much. If the lighted nock weighed 25 grains more than a regular nock, then yes, a 125 grain point on a standard nock would drop just as much as a 100 grain point with a lighted nock since the mass weight would be the same. Since you are introducing that weight to the front of the arrow instead of the rear, you are causing the dynamic spine of the arrow shaft to act weaker.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors yeah, spine is some messed up stuff. I am right on the line between a 400 and 350 spine by 1 pound of draw weight, or 1 inch shorter arrow. I'm shooting 400 spine and adding 25gr to the front will put me over. I already backed off my draw weight 9 pounds and am at a 28 inch draw instead of 30, so I am somewhere around 59 pounds. I would like to shoot 70 or higher for more speed and less drop ,but the bow seems to shoot the most accurate at this setting with these arrows than with the 300s at 70 for not that much overall gain. I had rather have the superior accuracy.
I don't understand, if you were aiming for the card you were high with regular nocks and hit right on with nocturnal nocks
The bow was sighted in with the weighted nocks/lighted nocks. This is to make your arrows impact the same when you are not shooting the lighted nocks.
@BowOnlyOutdoors oh gotcha, I must have missed that the bow was set up for weighted. Thanks for the video and reply!
Come on let's be realistic here the maximum distance your average bow hunter shoots is 40 yards, shooting at 60 to 100 yards for demonstrating is kinda ridiculous.
You’re right, for most bowhunters this won’t matter. At 40 yards, we found it to make roughly a 3” difference in impact. We showed the example at 100 yards to show the amount of drop between the standard nock and the lighted nock simply because of the weight between the two.
3” may not seem like a lot, but it may be the difference between an ethical kill, or wounding the animal. For those that want more out of themselves and out of their set up, this is a cheap and easy fix. For those that don’t, that’s ok too.
Appreciate your view, but being a New Mexico hunter, this makes a ton of sense. Most of my shots at elk over the years have been outside of 50yds. Yes, for whitetail I see your point. But Josh and Micah, and a lot of us, hardly ever hunt whitetail, but chase elk every year, if we get drawn. And the ranges get long fast out here. This weight difference always bugged me, and I’m happy to get my weights identical between my off season arrows, and my lighted nock arrows. Great tip, guys, keep’em coming.
Look its not the weight though true! What you say about the difference in weight is 100% correct, but you proved it in your video by showing your groups that the X nocks are far more consistent just by the group tightness. Your lighted nocks had a far less consistent groups than the X nock. I have been in the industry over 30 yrs. The only way to get lighted nocks to be consistent is purchase whatever brand you want with extras, and nock tune with your hunting setup meaning broadhead, vanes, nocks, bow, and poundage everything you will hunt with at what you think your effective range is and that is it. When whitetail hunting at shorter distances 20 to 40 or even 50 yds not a huge issue, but out west with a short shot being 50yds and normal shots of up to 80 to 100 yds on game it can be a bigger issue. By the way good group at 100yds. Lighted nocks are less consistent due to the clearances needed in most for switch activation were standard nocks do not need or have these clearances. I do understand for sure the use of lighted nocks, and they work great on camera for sure but the pretty arrow flight views do come at a cost. It been proven many times lighted nocks are far more inconsistent. Great video!
You are absolutely right, lighted nocks just aren’t as consistent as the factory X nocks that Easton makes. This is just one way to get them to impact a little closer by countering the weight variance. Thanks for sharing!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Agreed!!
Just shoot only lighted or regular nocks 😂
You certainly can, but this is a more economical option for those that don’t want to shoot $10 nocks