I’m a painter and drywall finisher for Penn State University and I do that same patch every day! Ha! Lots it’s student damages! I use fiber fuse like crazy, probably a roll or two a week! Awesome job!
I can't emphasize enough the truth about all-purpose (air-dry) mud vs the setting type. I'm not professionally trained as a drywall finisher, but I do drywall repairs or smaller finish jobs professionally when the need arises on bigger projects. I'm mostly self-taught or would pick up pointers and techniques here and there from subcontracted finishers. It took me years to learn what you said toward the end, as I didn't really understand the difference between the mud types. I eventually learned that all-purpose mud should only be used as a really thin finish coat, or final 2 coats if there's going to be a lot of sanding, but NEVER use it for the first (structural) coat because it shrinks and/or cracks when applied too thick, and it doesn't adhere as well as setting type mud. For those who are apprehensive like I used to be about "mixing" the setting type compound: Get 45 minute first, and only mix a little at a time until you get to know how to work with it. Once you feel it start to thicken/harden while troweling it out, STOP! Dump what's in your pan, clean your tools, and mix another batch. Once the stuff starts to harden even a little bit, it is practically unusable for anything except making a mess of your work because of how rapidly it cures. Do not try to add water to salvage what's in your pan, it won't work. Cleaning your tools is essential too, mainly because the setting type compound will strongly adhere to your tools, and will not rinse/scrub off (like the air-dry stuff) once it's cured. The only way to get tools cleaned at that point is sanding, or chiseling it off, which will likely ruin the tool. Just rinse and wipe tools clean while the mud is still malleable.
You can clean hardened plaster and quick set off tools more gently than chiseling or sanding, but it takes some time. You have to let the tools soak for a good 24 hours submerged in water, which will weaken the plaster. It still takes a little elbow grease, but can be accomplished much less aggressively with regular scrapers and/or scrubbies.
Stainless steel pot scrubber pad (its kinda like steel wool, but more like thin flat wires) works pretty good and quick unless it's dried for weeks, and even then works fine if you soak for a little while. My drywall work sucks, but I've figured out how to clean the tools pretty good from redoing everything over and over, lol
I learn so.much much from your videos.. You show mess ups, you dont hide the fact sometimes you have tonuse what you have on hand and make it work. Awesome Job Ben, and Thanks to you and your family for sharing.
Thank you! I’m removing my kitchen tile backsplash and only one spot had a little crumbling from the drywall. Luckily, my husband had all of the materials so I knocked it out before he got home.
Love the drywall patch videos. I am a renovator and most of what I do is small patches. I always keep a spray can of oil based zinser on hand to seal loose edges before skimming questionable drywall where the face paper is loose or torn. Nice thing us the primer will dry in about an hour if it's a light coat
After putting down fiberglass tape whether you're patching or taping joints spray it with spray glue, that prevents any loose strands from standing up and creating all those little dots in your finish and you can just do everything in one coat of mud.
I have been in this position myself. Not the most ideal plan but, it works. I've found that cleaning the dust off with a damp sponge creates a easier and better bond between the speed set and the damage drywall. Thank you for the great content!!
I love the Fibafuse products. I have 120+ brick home...some cracks in the concrete skim coat and drywall sags on the walls/ceiling. I use the Fibafuse 36" x 150' rolls along with the 2 1/16" & 6" rolls...started skim coating my entire home following your techniques, but the 36" rolls of Fibafuse are a game changer. I simply coat the walls and cover it with the Fibafuse and smooth out, second coat next and....done after a light sand, ready for prime & paint.
You are my favorite UA-camr, and you have given me the knowledge to do work on my own and get my jobs done efficiently and effectively. Keep up the amazing work!
I'm a painter/ finisher and that's exactly how I do those patches...way faster and easier than cutting a whole a hanging new board or a stupid "California Patch"
If the viewers of this video never used fiber Fuse tape, please check it out! It’s a awesome product! You can make a patch disappear in (2) coats without much experience! The secret is lightly sanding the area after the embedding tape coat! If you sand off the minor fiberglass edges and allows the patch to be super flat! Then use 20 min mud and slightly over fill the area! I have the luxury of using a power sander to flatten it out but a radius 360 sand disc will work awesome too with lots of dust! Great results either way!
After putting down Fiber Fuse or any type of fiberglass tape or mesh whether you're patching or taping joints just spray over it with spray glue, that prevents any of those loose strands from standing up and creating all those little dots in your finish and you can do everything with one coat instead of sanding a first coat and then applying a second, much faster that way. It's one of the neatest tricks I've learned since I started doing drywall.
I’ve done a lot of smearing power grab glue all over the loose stuff. I also shellac over any brown paper still exposed. But I’ll let the power grab dry for a couple days come back and then quickset fill/level all purpose to finish. kind of basing what I thought I should do off of many of your videos. Has worked well for anchor blowouts from prior drapery arrangements or ripped out toilet roll holders. -U10
I am so surprised you didn't add Elmer's on this patch considering the crumble. I do it every time I use quick set now regardless of ceiling or wall. I know it might be overkill but I know it will always have good adhesion 😊 Take care and stay safe Ben.
That's pretty much what I do in situations where there's an exposed/damaged gypsum core but its hard to put a new piece in for whatever reason, nice to see someone with way more drywall experience than me using the same method. I know you hate Gardz but I usually saturate the core with it to glue down the powder and loose stuff and give it overnight to dry, then patch with durabond and all purpose the next day.
Even faster is using spray glue, it dries in minutes and then use it to spray over Fiber Fuse or mesh tape whether you're patching or taping joints, that prevents those loose strands from standing up when you smear on the mud that winds up making those little dots in your finish after you sand.
It’s funny at my work I’m the only one using A California patch! It’s so fast and efficient! In my neck of the woods their called blow me patches! Lol! All our drywall is 5/8 buy I keep a piece of 1/2” for California patching! I actually have many California patches pre made for single gang mud rings made up in my work van!
I have the hot mud but no mesh tape. Just the regular tape. Probably wouldn’t do as good but I’m sure it would get the job done. Personally I would probably do a California patch but that’s just me. lol
Hey Ben! Question, how would that additive I've seen you use in the past, I forget the exact product, but i think it was like a fluffy glass fiber stuff you add to the mud instead of using mesh tape. Thanks for all the great videos !!
I'm saying it on a job I'm doing right now, water damage on a ceiling from a leaky toilet upstairs. But mines worse than that, it's a post WW2 house made when they were transitioning to drywall, it's got ¼" drywall nailed up with the rough plaster directly on it and then the finish plaster. After I got into it I was wishing it was the older lathe type of plaster wall, they're easier to fix after water damage than this nightmare is.
love the content and your work tips and everything just want to suggest you a more heavyduty utility knife i always see you with that skinny one , i use a dewalt but anyone thats more thick and has a bent shape works well, better grip
I did one similar to this and I added a layer of tape embedded within the thickness of the setting compound. I thought this sort of lamination would reinforce the repair. I wonder what you (or anyone) thinks of this.
This might be what I need to firm up a very small greasy soggy spot I have in the kitchen that's been crumbling. It sits dead center under a wall exhaust fan.
$1 store hairspray the exposed paper and or gypsum. Needs to saturate, even if it takes 2 passes. Skim w/ hot mud & prime. Don’t forget that hot mud cures for sanding and recoat in the time on the bag but still requires 24hr set time for decorative coating.
It's like you're rebuilding the drywall sheet, they spread gypsum in mud on paper and press it together I think and then compress the factory edges which is why they don't behave well, they're compressed so breaking them doesn't always happen cleanly. I think you're right that this is stronger than a california patch because you have the strength of having both sides, paper and tape rather than just paper on the front, the thing is though I'd never california patch something larger than like 8x8 or maybe 10x10 or some rectangle in that ballpark. I use this type of patch every job because the boards are pretty bad and get blown out all the time during install. My boss told me that they've gotten so much worse since covid for some reason but they're weaker and get blown out along the flats and corners, Did a 12plex awhile ago and the board was delivered and sat stacked up in teh rooms for the rest of the trades to destroy throughout the whole job and they needed tons of repair before tape.
I can't tell you how many times I've said "feather them edges" in all different applications, and people think I came up with it 🤣 don't worry, I give you the credit 🤣
I have some drywall that cracked behind hardware of stairway railing. I’m having trouble finding repairs that include the need to cope with having a handrail Re installed on top
Hey Ben, love the channel! Question for you, do you have any videos or info of what to do if remodeling a home and the drywall going up the wall was cut about 1.5 inches to short by the previous remodeler? They covered the wide gap between the wall and ceiling with moudling, I would like to do a better job than that. Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you!
Yup. Add a strip of drywall. It doesn't need to fit tight. Cut it a quarter inch small and split the gap on both sides. Then tape the joint and the corner. It's an annoying job but not too hard of one.
Dang, wish I has seen this video prior to today. Just had this same issue happen to me on my stairwell yesterday. Instead of patching over like shown here, I removed all the crumbling sheet rock, and now I have a hole. I will have to use some backboard to fit some sheetrock, or maybe use the California patch?
Other than an impact, what could cause drywall to behave like that? I have this situation where the drywall has cracked and sort of flaked out in the corner of a room, on both sides of the corner. It's all up and down the wall. I'm thinking moisture, and there is a bathroom on the other side, but the bathroom isn't used very often and I see no other signs of a leak. I don't even think there's plumbing on the other side of the corner. We did have a slab leak that we thought was a foundation issue at first. Turned out the drain lines had rotted out...the clay under the slab expanded and shifted things around. Plus we had a drought. I don't see any other cracks like this in the house, though. Anyway I need to paint the room so I think I'm going to go with this method of repair. If the crack reappears I guess I'll just hang some new drywall and paint again.
First timer patching up similar project. What brand of "quick set mud" should I get? Putting that in home depot search gives me all types of joint compound including all purpose. All I have is all purpose at the moment and would rather get the right stuff from the start.
If you mix quickset 5 mud with quickset 20 will it set up in the average of the two (or 12.5 minutes) if both parts are mixed equally? Ok, I’ve worked the last 14 hours so my attempt at humor fell on its face. Great video (again). I’m so glad I discovered you a couple of months ago. I’ve learned so many techniques and tricks from you. I love your sense of humor too. I’m from Canada (and want to return) so it’s nice to hear your Canadian accent speaking in English :). Keep up the inspiring and informative videos! Btw, I was a carpenter while working though college. I built houses and apartments and since they’re still standing I must’ve done a good job. I’ve also made surfboards and made a 17 foot sailboat. 👍👍👍 Btw, is Canada allowing Americans into Canada? I was born in Canada so I hope they’ll let me back. You’re so right, these are hard and strange times. Thank you for that heartfelt message Ben.
Would adding glue make it even stronger? I'm not really sure. I know it makes it grip better. When I've added glue I've also noticed that it also makes it almost impossible to sand and 'feels' stronger. I wonder.
when would one use regular joint compound in the bucket? what can you NOT do with 45 min mud? can i finish coat with quickset mud or is that not good to do
I know it's not much, but you don't bother to remove the residual paper as it might blister? Or seal it? Nvm just saw the mesh tape being used which locks everything down
Just found out your a skateboarder that makes sense because I feel more connected to your communication style. I’m a journey man carpenter in Eugene Oregon. If you pass through let’s push around. Ps: I am considering starting a UA-cam channel. Could you make a video of how you managed that lol.
This is awesome, and super helpful. I get this is one way to do, based on time/materials, etc. But if you had no limitations like that, what is the preferred way? Cutting it out and putting in new board?
Ran into a problem kind of like this. I was hanging drywall for the first time by myself and kept blowing out the edges with screws. The project still isn’t done. I’m dreading it. What do you do if you blowout a small section of edge on a full sheet? I’m pissed lol
20 minute and mesh to start with and finish with a light weight mud to sand smooth. Paper tape over plaster just blisters and lifts off the wall because the moisture has nowhere to go but out.
Future homeowners buying a house need to see this. So many of them freak out and want you to replace the sheet. Drywall is easily fixed
I’m a painter and drywall finisher for Penn State University and I do that same patch every day! Ha! Lots it’s student damages! I use fiber fuse like crazy, probably a roll or two a week! Awesome job!
Fibafuse makes a 6" x 75' roll. Bought a roll when relocating a bunch of retrofit can lights and covered the entire patch with one piece.
East Halls - Pinchot dude, then West Halls - Hamilton, from '82...
Send 'em all a Christmas card for the steady employment!
You guys hiring?
at least they keep you busy
Fiber fuse Is an awesome thing.
As someone who mostly does repair work this type of video is gold. Always enjoy your videos Ben!
I can't emphasize enough the truth about all-purpose (air-dry) mud vs the setting type.
I'm not professionally trained as a drywall finisher, but I do drywall repairs or smaller finish jobs professionally when the need arises on bigger projects. I'm mostly self-taught or would pick up pointers and techniques here and there from subcontracted finishers.
It took me years to learn what you said toward the end, as I didn't really understand the difference between the mud types. I eventually learned that all-purpose mud should only be used as a really thin finish coat, or final 2 coats if there's going to be a lot of sanding, but NEVER use it for the first (structural) coat because it shrinks and/or cracks when applied too thick, and it doesn't adhere as well as setting type mud.
For those who are apprehensive like I used to be about "mixing" the setting type compound:
Get 45 minute first, and only mix a little at a time until you get to know how to work with it. Once you feel it start to thicken/harden while troweling it out, STOP! Dump what's in your pan, clean your tools, and mix another batch. Once the stuff starts to harden even a little bit, it is practically unusable for anything except making a mess of your work because of how rapidly it cures. Do not try to add water to salvage what's in your pan, it won't work.
Cleaning your tools is essential too, mainly because the setting type compound will strongly adhere to your tools, and will not rinse/scrub off (like the air-dry stuff) once it's cured. The only way to get tools cleaned at that point is sanding, or chiseling it off, which will likely ruin the tool. Just rinse and wipe tools clean while the mud is still malleable.
You can clean hardened plaster and quick set off tools more gently than chiseling or sanding, but it takes some time. You have to let the tools soak for a good 24 hours submerged in water, which will weaken the plaster. It still takes a little elbow grease, but can be accomplished much less aggressively with regular scrapers and/or scrubbies.
Stainless steel pot scrubber pad (its kinda like steel wool, but more like thin flat wires) works pretty good and quick unless it's dried for weeks, and even then works fine if you soak for a little while.
My drywall work sucks, but I've figured out how to clean the tools pretty good from redoing everything over and over, lol
Nice job on the patch and THANKS for the positive vibes! We can all use more of that - Cheers!
I learn so.much much from your videos.. You show mess ups, you dont hide the fact sometimes you have tonuse what you have on hand and make it work. Awesome Job Ben, and Thanks to you and your family for sharing.
Man. You've taught me so much. The first patch I ever did was a 2x2 patch and your video helped me do it almost as good as a pro.
I'm drywalling my whole house that I just bought and these videos really help! Thank you so much!
Had a small handyman repair this week and your videos saved me. Much appreciated as I have little Sheetrock experience.
Thank you! I’m removing my kitchen tile backsplash and only one spot had a little crumbling from the drywall. Luckily, my husband had all of the materials so I knocked it out before he got home.
Another great video with real world application for us DIYrs
Love the drywall patch videos. I am a renovator and most of what I do is small patches. I always keep a spray can of oil based zinser on hand to seal loose edges before skimming questionable drywall where the face paper is loose or torn. Nice thing us the primer will dry in about an hour if it's a light coat
Great lesson -I wish I saw this one last weekend before I started my drywall patch job😊
Hi Ben. Another great repair video. Thank you for sharing. Learnt so much from you. Cheers from a southern land 🦘🇦🇺.
After putting down fiberglass tape whether you're patching or taping joints spray it with spray glue, that prevents any loose strands from standing up and creating all those little dots in your finish and you can just do everything in one coat of mud.
your instructions are very detailed , glad to see you are still doing this job for such a long time , it is similar to my profession .🥰
I have been in this position myself. Not the most ideal plan but, it works. I've found that cleaning the dust off with a damp sponge creates a easier and better bond between the speed set and the damage drywall. Thank you for the great content!!
If you prime with plaster weld or gardz first, it’s bulletproof
I love the Fibafuse products. I have 120+ brick home...some cracks in the concrete skim coat and drywall sags on the walls/ceiling. I use the Fibafuse 36" x 150' rolls along with the 2 1/16" & 6" rolls...started skim coating my entire home following your techniques, but the 36" rolls of Fibafuse are a game changer. I simply coat the walls and cover it with the Fibafuse and smooth out, second coat next and....done after a light sand, ready for prime & paint.
Been waiting for the drywall repairs on the garage, Ben. Thank you!
This video was really helpful man. I miss your drywall tutorials!
Thanks so much Ben.
Thank you! I was worried to see crumbling gypsum when I removed old door/window trim. I will try this method!
Your uploads have helped Me improve Mine FinishingSkill beyond belief....
Forever GreatFull.
Thank You.
You are my favorite UA-camr, and you have given me the knowledge to do work on my own and get my jobs done efficiently and effectively. Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you! Also, BIG THANK YOU for your pledge on Patreon!!! It means a lot to me. Lot's of content coming there too!
I'm a painter/ finisher and that's exactly how I do those patches...way faster and easier than cutting a whole a hanging new board or a stupid "California Patch"
Thank goodness Ben's back doing drywall. I thought he was becoming a carpenter again from the past few ;)
Geezo with all the hammer and nails videos I was starting to think this was a carpentry channel! 😁 It's good to see we are back to the drywall vids!
If the viewers of this video never used fiber Fuse tape, please check it out! It’s a awesome product! You can make a patch disappear in (2) coats without much experience! The secret is lightly sanding the area after the embedding tape coat! If you sand off the minor fiberglass edges and allows the patch to be super flat! Then use 20 min mud and slightly over fill the area! I have the luxury of using a power sander to flatten it out but a radius 360 sand disc will work awesome too with lots of dust! Great results either way!
I wish we had it in Europe, fiber fuse looks awesome and easier then paper tape
Fiba Fuse is a game changer!
After putting down Fiber Fuse or any type of fiberglass tape or mesh whether you're patching or taping joints just spray over it with spray glue, that prevents any of those loose strands from standing up and creating all those little dots in your finish and you can do everything with one coat instead of sanding a first coat and then applying a second, much faster that way.
It's one of the neatest tricks I've learned since I started doing drywall.
@@dukecraig2402 thank You Brother!!!
Awesome!
Thank You Jason!!!
Because of Your comment i am resolved to acquire some FibaFuse!
Be well Brother.
I’ve done a lot of smearing power grab glue all over the loose stuff. I also shellac over any brown paper still exposed. But I’ll let the power grab dry for a couple days come back and then quickset fill/level all purpose to finish. kind of basing what I thought I should do off of many of your videos. Has worked well for anchor blowouts from prior drapery arrangements or ripped out toilet roll holders. -U10
Thank You Ben..Good inspiration at the end..Keep Up The Good Work..
Great trick, thanks for showing.
I am so surprised you didn't add Elmer's on this patch considering the crumble. I do it every time I use quick set now regardless of ceiling or wall. I know it might be overkill but I know it will always have good adhesion 😊 Take care and stay safe Ben.
Thank you for sharing my friend, have a great weekend
Yup. I prefer that in most situations! Easier by far than other options. The bonus is I can carry a compact bag of 20m all winter and not worry a bit!
Awesome job! Me and my Wife love watching your videos! 🙂
Glad you like them!
Finally, some feathered edges - day is complete, addiction satisfied! Thx!! :)
Great work, as usual.
Thanks for all the great info...
Excellent job as usual...
I needed this one! Thank you so much. Muah!
love your channel
I enjoy the drywall videos
That's pretty much what I do in situations where there's an exposed/damaged gypsum core but its hard to put a new piece in for whatever reason, nice to see someone with way more drywall experience than me using the same method. I know you hate Gardz but I usually saturate the core with it to glue down the powder and loose stuff and give it overnight to dry, then patch with durabond and all purpose the next day.
The gaurdz is a good idea.
Even faster is using spray glue, it dries in minutes and then use it to spray over Fiber Fuse or mesh tape whether you're patching or taping joints, that prevents those loose strands from standing up when you smear on the mud that winds up making those little dots in your finish after you sand.
@@dukecraig2402link to the spray glue u are talking about?
Great video as usual, thanks.
Great tip brother!!
Amazing video vary helpful. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic thank you for the video
Thank you. I would like to fix areas in a rental.
Great video ,thanks
It’s funny at my work I’m the only one using A California patch! It’s so fast and efficient! In my neck of the woods their called blow me patches! Lol! All our drywall is 5/8 buy I keep a piece of 1/2” for California patching! I actually have many California patches pre made for single gang mud rings made up in my work van!
I figured this was a video about the patches for the electrical you had to run in the garage.
yeah buddy keep it up! great vid
Can you do all video series on the 5-6 different ways to patch dry wall holes, as you indicated?
New kind of light drywall out there. Wonder how it holds up to muddling, strength, durability and takes to painting.
I did a repair using zinsser gardz. Just applied it twice and let it dry for a day or two.
It’ll be nice to see a video on completing a Texture on the walls, Like knock down or orange peel.
I have the hot mud but no mesh tape. Just the regular tape. Probably wouldn’t do as good but I’m sure it would get the job done. Personally I would probably do a California patch but that’s just me. lol
Hey Ben!
Question, how would that additive I've seen you use in the past, I forget the exact product, but i think it was like a fluffy glass fiber stuff you add to the mud instead of using mesh tape.
Thanks for all the great videos !!
Can you say "Victorian horse hair lathe and plaster"? 😆
I'm saying it on a job I'm doing right now, water damage on a ceiling from a leaky toilet upstairs.
But mines worse than that, it's a post WW2 house made when they were transitioning to drywall, it's got ¼" drywall nailed up with the rough plaster directly on it and then the finish plaster.
After I got into it I was wishing it was the older lathe type of plaster wall, they're easier to fix after water damage than this nightmare is.
@@dukecraig2402 Best of luck.
Thanks
love the content and your work tips and everything just want to suggest you a more heavyduty utility knife i always see you with that skinny one , i use a dewalt but anyone thats more thick and has a bent shape works well, better grip
I like the little ones. They feel sharper.
I did one similar to this and I added a layer of tape embedded within the thickness of the setting compound. I thought this sort of lamination would reinforce the repair. I wonder what you (or anyone) thinks of this.
THE MAN
This might be what I need to firm up a very small greasy soggy spot I have in the kitchen that's been crumbling. It sits dead center under a wall exhaust fan.
2:58 my grandma and culinary profs told me this, but I always said back: just add more “mix” (or flour) to bring it back🤣😉
$1 store hairspray the exposed paper and or gypsum. Needs to saturate, even if it takes 2 passes. Skim w/ hot mud & prime. Don’t forget that hot mud cures for sanding and recoat in the time on the bag but still requires 24hr set time for decorative coating.
It's like you're rebuilding the drywall sheet, they spread gypsum in mud on paper and press it together I think and then compress the factory edges which is why they don't behave well, they're compressed so breaking them doesn't always happen cleanly. I think you're right that this is stronger than a california patch because you have the strength of having both sides, paper and tape rather than just paper on the front, the thing is though I'd never california patch something larger than like 8x8 or maybe 10x10 or some rectangle in that ballpark. I use this type of patch every job because the boards are pretty bad and get blown out all the time during install. My boss told me that they've gotten so much worse since covid for some reason but they're weaker and get blown out along the flats and corners, Did a 12plex awhile ago and the board was delivered and sat stacked up in teh rooms for the rest of the trades to destroy throughout the whole job and they needed tons of repair before tape.
thats pretty strong. tape is good
I can't tell you how many times I've said "feather them edges" in all different applications, and people think I came up with it 🤣 don't worry, I give you the credit 🤣
I have some drywall that cracked behind hardware of stairway railing. I’m having trouble finding repairs that include the need to cope with having a handrail Re installed on top
Hey Ben, love the channel! Question for you, do you have any videos or info of what to do if remodeling a home and the drywall going up the wall was cut about 1.5 inches to short by the previous remodeler? They covered the wide gap between the wall and ceiling with moudling, I would like to do a better job than that. Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you!
Yup. Add a strip of drywall. It doesn't need to fit tight. Cut it a quarter inch small and split the gap on both sides. Then tape the joint and the corner. It's an annoying job but not too hard of one.
Use 3m super 77 adhesive after mud kicks and solid for taping
Dang, wish I has seen this video prior to today. Just had this same issue happen to me on my stairwell yesterday. Instead of patching over like shown here, I removed all the crumbling sheet rock, and now I have a hole. I will have to use some backboard to fit some sheetrock, or maybe use the California patch?
Other than an impact, what could cause drywall to behave like that? I have this situation where the drywall has cracked and sort of flaked out in the corner of a room, on both sides of the corner. It's all up and down the wall. I'm thinking moisture, and there is a bathroom on the other side, but the bathroom isn't used very often and I see no other signs of a leak. I don't even think there's plumbing on the other side of the corner. We did have a slab leak that we thought was a foundation issue at first. Turned out the drain lines had rotted out...the clay under the slab expanded and shifted things around. Plus we had a drought. I don't see any other cracks like this in the house, though.
Anyway I need to paint the room so I think I'm going to go with this method of repair. If the crack reappears I guess I'll just hang some new drywall and paint again.
I got patching down, any hand can do that .
What I can't do is match the texture, always looks like a smooth spot after paint
First timer patching up similar project. What brand of "quick set mud" should I get? Putting that in home depot search gives me all types of joint compound including all purpose. All I have is all purpose at the moment and would rather get the right stuff from the start.
Don't worry I always seem to mix about twice what I need!😁
I got a question. Why not just mix a little plaster paris into some compound and cut out taping it?
If you mix quickset 5 mud with quickset 20 will it set up in the average of the two (or 12.5 minutes) if both parts are mixed equally?
Ok, I’ve worked the last 14 hours so my attempt at humor fell on its face.
Great video (again). I’m so glad I discovered you a couple of months ago. I’ve learned so many techniques and tricks from you. I love your sense of humor too. I’m from Canada (and want to return) so it’s nice to hear your Canadian accent speaking in English :).
Keep up the inspiring and informative videos! Btw, I was a carpenter while working though college. I built houses and apartments and since they’re still standing I must’ve done a good job. I’ve also made surfboards and made a 17 foot sailboat.
👍👍👍
Btw, is Canada allowing Americans into Canada? I was born in Canada so I hope they’ll let me back. You’re so right, these are hard and strange times. Thank you for that heartfelt message Ben.
This is my situation exactly
Why not put primer on drywall before mud?
When you have those long strings cut the flat sides with your utility knife . I'm a plasterer by trade for 40 yrs.
Years ago I used brown paper grocery bag. Cut a custom shape to fit the repair ..bed it in so it was flush with original paper.
I thought about doing this for a similar repair lol how did it workout
@@elle7037 I had no problem. I was removing a large outlet box so it was around 4"x4". Good luck!
Good programming.
Would adding glue make it even stronger? I'm not really sure. I know it makes it grip better. When I've added glue I've also noticed that it also makes it almost impossible to sand and 'feels' stronger. I wonder.
I'm an auto appraiser and this is a question I have to answer everyday lol
when would one use regular joint compound in the bucket? what can you NOT do with 45 min mud? can i finish coat with quickset mud or is that not good to do
I know it's not much, but you don't bother to remove the residual paper as it might blister? Or seal it? Nvm just saw the mesh tape being used which locks everything down
As a super of a housing complex, I can fix almost every maintenance repairs just by sending and email. 😆
Just found out your a skateboarder that makes sense because I feel more connected to your communication style. I’m a journey man carpenter in Eugene Oregon. If you pass through let’s push around. Ps: I am considering starting a UA-cam channel. Could you make a video of how you managed that lol.
Thnx bud.. I'm in the UK so not overly sure which quick set or regular muds to use, any idea on manufacturer for a quality product?
Sorry. I'm totally unfamiliar with UK muds
Know if a place to find the 6 inch fibsfuse? Haven’t been able to find it in a while
Is this also how you fix corners that bubble. Just cut out the old paper, mud, re-paper, then mud again ?
Do you sand it at the end? If so, what grit would you use?
This is awesome, and super helpful. I get this is one way to do, based on time/materials, etc. But if you had no limitations like that, what is the preferred way? Cutting it out and putting in new board?
I might still do this. It's easy.
Ran into a problem kind of like this. I was hanging drywall for the first time by myself and kept blowing out the edges with screws. The project still isn’t done. I’m dreading it. What do you do if you blowout a small section of edge on a full sheet? I’m pissed lol
If its on the tapered edge i just cut out the area like he showed, prefill with 20 and let the paper tape cover it
You sealed this type of patch in the past first. Then 20 minute hot and fiber fuse. Can you omit the sealant?
You can. The last time that I sealed it was a way bigger patch.
You should use a blender(one wing) and a small ice cream bucket. Talk about soft serve...
What kind of compound would you use on plaster walls.
20 minute and mesh to start with and finish with a light weight mud to sand smooth. Paper tape over plaster just blisters and lifts off the wall because the moisture has nowhere to go but out.
What are your thoughts on all these people tinting their mud?
No primer needed before applying the mud?