Use a grout removal tool to remove plaster as 5 x 5" squares to the depth of the lathe every few feet distance down the crack, then use bonding and real basecoat plaster into those patches, pushing the plaster behind the exposed edge of the plaster, feather to the existing plaster to hold the plaster to the wall. This will anchor the whole section. Use the oscillating grout removal tool to carve out the cracks enough to expose gaps in the lathe for new plaster, an inch or two wide. Use Plaster Weld and Structolite for a basecoat into the bare strips where the cracks used to be and finish with a veneer that matches the original. Learning to plaster is fun. The grout tool is really fast, painting Plaster Weld is quick and mixing plaster takes just a handful of minutes with a bucket and a pointing trowel. The hard part is watching plaster videos to get the technique -- it's hard but not that hard as plasterers make it out to be. Use screeding for excess and smooth with a trowel, with upward and turning motion and an angle so it glides not removes, water the tools to glide. Block out the light and use a flashlight down the wall to see waves to flatten. Let set partially and go back to scrape and smooth. Finish with a sponge or brush. I make my own plaster based on the typical 1930s recipe -- you can order the components online or use premixed. You can add portland to create a stronger plaster. Drywall over plaster works well but I'm not too sure if it will introduce mold or not. I remove durabond from plaster and replaster when I see it. Durabond recracks quickly without tape and putting tape on plaster makes no sense when you have that nice lathe behind it to anchor with real plaster.
Yeah, i had à job once, the plaster was "dead" you cant do anything on That, i made multiple coat of fine finition coat spend à lot of time on it, just to understand That, adding insulated drywall is à lot faster
@@gelooso Can pay for things once or twice. These older houses usually have more then just the cracks from the laft separation. The cracks are usually sign of actual wall movement from subpar older framing and joist. Now if you are just trying to flip a house this is best option.
Fantastic work! This is exactly what we like to see, when I saw the Durabond I knew this was a professional repair. Wear a respirator when cutting the cracks out! It most likely has a layer of lead based paint and possibly asbestos fibers!
Nicely done! I recognize the advantages of drywall, but plaster and lath has the quietness and feel of solidity that drywall cannot match. Would not want it again, ha ha, but it does have certain advantages.
Difficult to find people who still know how to work with plaster but this product will easily have 4 times the longevity and durability of any drywall job😊
I was ready to pick this one apart, guidance for this online is always awful. This is actually an awesome fix and great to see. Wouldn't work in my neck of the woods; damned dot and dab, but great to see someone rising the actual issues rather than the symptom.
We had a ceiling that had come free from the lath. It was still in one piece but was drooping down. We went into the attic, poured & spread a couple gallons of waterproof white glue, then braced the whole thing up tight from below & let it dry for a couple days. 15 years later it was still holding tight. Simply, easy, & quite effective.
I would imagine the original plaster was vapour permeable, and you’ve completely ruined its functionality. Simple, easy, but not correct. Just get things done properly, now if you were to take it down it’s twice as much of a pain as it would’ve been
I’ve been very successful with a similar method. I use Ace 1/16 masonry bit to pre-drill the holes for the screws in the same way which prevents additional cracking and crumbling. Then I just install the screws and leave them. I brush. Acrylic additive into the cracks and do the first coat with mesh tape with hot mud and acrylic additive mixed 50-50 with water. Never had a re-crack.
Back in the 90's, a random guy walking around in the parking lot of our local super market did this exact procedure to my uncles Pulsar. Man, he was pissed after the work was done and drove it like that for another 20 years. He still has that car today.
I'm a hardwall plasterer and it's a great idea mate and for those places where mess is a no go, I couldn't think of a better way to do it. But in saying that most times mess is fine and I just hit that shit with a grinder with a honing disk on it and go to town on the wall and re do the whole wall again. I've played around with it alot to find what causes spiderweb cracking and other cracks and so far I've found calaire is a big issue for float plastering for interior work and for external rendering (sand finish) I've found the use of way to much lime causes it to go off to quick and essentially snap dry. You see it alot with creme cement and lime render as the lime content of the creme is already quite high. But what do I know I'm just a plasterer aha
I made the mistake of doing this once. For a friend of mine, it was a little 10x10 bedroom with cracks on every wall just like this video. What a massive time sink. And at the end of it all, no matter how much plastering and sanding I did, the walls still looked wavy and awful. Lesson learned: next time, rip it out and put up drywall. I think if I wanted to do a particularly nice job, I might do a double layer of drywall, to match the thickness of the original lath and plaster, but also to provide more sound deadening. Would've taken half the time, much less stress, and the cost of the drywall would've been under $100.
Good point, making old plaster look perfect is a challenge. But don’t underestimate the mess and amount of work involved in tearing out the plaster and lathe. That will require you to re-do and re-cut all baseboards, casings, crowns, jambs etc. and then by the time you get the drywall hung you still have to tape and mud the whole room, sand, prime, and paint 😅
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Hmm, no. Like I said, I've been down that road. What I would do is simply leave the baseboard in place, and only remove enough plaster and lath to allow new drywall to slip behind it. Shim all the studs to allow drywall to equal original plaster depth. That would not be very messy at all, compared to the dusty nightmare I endured for several days. One day of demolition would be plenty. The rest would be nice clean work. Calculating work, which I am good at and enjoy. As opposed to the artistry required to even out wavy plaster. It's a matter of preference, I suppose.
Use a similar method, orange foam to bond to lath and I use PlasterWeld as a primer with 20 min mud, a few hours and it's ready to go. Watch out for lead though, old houses have a lot, HEPA vacuum and a final damp mop will meet clearance standards.
I have done same repair. Only variation I did was mix quick Crete bonding adhesive 1:1 ratio, shake well and flush holes before using quick grab by locktite and squeeze Into holes. In my opinion it prevents the moisture in product being absorbed to quick. Let set 3 to 4 days, and finish as this video shows. I used paper tape. Durabond as shown for taping mud. Then hot mud easy sand for fine finish. Be careful with durabond- it hardens like stone and is not sandable.100 plus year old house, been 3 years at least and job still looks great. Nice video great job and explanation.
Not if theres a gutter issue pouring water next to the foundation and the foundation is moving due to freeze thaw cycles. I see it all the time and instruct homeowners to address theri gutter issues BEFORE fixing cracked walls@@Don.kee.ho-tay
Spot on. Great job. The one thing I would recommend is of course lightly tap the whole wall and inspect to see if there are any other loose plaster. Then decide if it's more than half and there are chunks just floating being held together by the paint then yes replace it all w drywall. And I know I've ran into clients who have wanted to keep w the plaster because it doesn't mildew nearly as bad. I used to live in Florida. The humidity played the biggest factor in customers desiring the true hardcoat plaster. Drywall compound is not good enough. You can put a most minimal skipcoat of drywall compound as a finish coat to make smooth like glass. And don't forget if you do use plaster , make sure and apply primer to are for ensured bond.
Great video. Here's what I had to do in a farm house. 😎 if you don't have plastic caps use the tops of beer or soda caps( plastic or metal caps). I've also used metal regular washers. In past.
Best way to fix a plaster wall: demo it and install drywall - haha. Honestly man, I’m really impressed with your skills. I lack the skill you have, so drywall for me! Well done.
Should you screw and glue down all the cracks or just the ones with movement? I spent all day yesterday opening them up and filling with spackle. Did a couple of them a few years ago like this that are still holding up. This time after sanding, some are solid and some still move. Just got some joint compound. Planning on a skim coat over repair tape.
Shout out to modern adhesives for making this possible. It wasn't that long ago that you wouldn't be able to do this repair reliably, and it would fail again. Now, as shown in this video, that wall is half adhesive. It's a composite now.
It will definitely work. I prime the area (usually oil base underneath) trowel an anti fracture membrane over the area (like Redgard) after dry, I use joint compound. Depending on the severity, I sometimes use mesh within the Redgard. I haven't had one re-crack yet. Over 15 years doing it that way.
Do not use plaster on cracks in a plaster wall. The cracks are not consistent in width. Plaster shrinks horribly and will crack over and over everytime it gets humidity. Plaster an entire wall the same thickness is different than crack repair. Use plus style compound for flexibility in repair. And if its as bad as the wall in the video just replace it all with drywall for a real permanent upgrade not repair
QUESTION: I don't have plaster and lathe but plaster ceilings in a 1946 home in South FL. The ceilings are secured by nails. Someone told me something about old ceilings that were done this way for a short period of time. Do you know what it is? Something to do with lime?
A structural engineer told me this rule-of-thumb (for brick buildings at least): Vertical cracks are usually just harmless movement of the building over time. But diagonal cracks suggest something wrong with the foundations.
First time I've seen some one repair plaster right. However if there are too many crack and it's crumbly, I pull the trim and lam with 1/4 inch over the top of it.
Those people who live in tremor (Earthquake)areas have problems with cracks in walls. In apartment that I used to live in...had to be fixed every six months. However, I moved to another apartment in the same complex and haven't had the same problem 👍
5 minute mud works great. Will never crack out and once it starts to dry you can work it with a wet sponge and a blade. No paper is needed behind the mud either. I have had customers for 20 years and some a few longer and never had a call back to fix anything I used 5 minute mud to patch I am a retired contractor.
Das Problem ist der Untergrund aus Holzlatten.Dieser arbeitet Fermazell nicht, deshalb wird es wieder Risse geben. Die Arbeit an sich ist sehr gut ausgeführt.
I've started doing this a couple of times, never seemed to get enough adhesive behind to fully stick it and saying "drill holes in every other lath" is easier said than done, if it's not a wide crack how can you see? Are you marking out lath spacing in pencil before? Are all laths equally spaced? In some instances where the other options are egregious maybe but.....
Good point, my 1918 plaster walls have lead paint. I might be wrong but I’d say that if there is plaster, there is lead paint down the many coats of paint that wall has gotten.
Sure, but as a general contractor and master carpenter, I know for a fact that plaster and lath has carcinogens (cancer-causing compounds) in it and the best way to do that type of repair is to remove it and hang drywall (or sheetrock if you prefer, BTW "Sheetrock" is a brand name and the product is drywall, don't believe me look at the labels) in its place! Just because someone wants something done a certain way, does not, in fact, mean they are right! I don't tell a surgeon what I think the best way is to do his job, just as I don't tell the granite guys how to level and shim the countertops when they're finishing off my cabinets! That's what they do, I just build the cabinets, islands, and tables (amongst many other things) they lay the granite, marble, or tile on! When I had gallbladder surgery, I sure as hell didn't tell the surgical team the best way to pull it out... I do get what you are saying Michael, however in my professional opinion, I know that they are wrong! As the plaster and lath continues to crack (which it inevitably will with age) it will only exacerbate the problem later on. I know, I tried this on a house maybe 2 or 3 years into my career and had been called back maybe 6 or 7 years later to discover half the wall had nearly fallen on the child's bed! Luckily it was after they were up for the day! Spending a bit less today just might cause a bigger issue down the not-so-distant road! If you do use this method, just be mindful of the products you are using and be especially careful, please! 🙏 Good luck to all in your future endeavors, I wish you all an abundance of success and happiness!!!
What most people want is usually the stupidest solution, because it doesn't actually solve anything, they're thinking that a short term solution is cheaper, when they will end up having to rip the whole fucking thing down and start fresh sooner or later anyway.
@@philiprooney3280 It don't see any way it would take less time and money to do the entire thing in drywall. You have to setup site and dust protection ( this is a finished home remember). Demo all the plaster & lathe, then haul it out of the house and eventually dispose of it. Clean up the mess made during the demo. Bring in and install the sheets of drywall, then tape, mud, and finish the drywall. After all that you have to prime and paint the wall you repaired, the two side walls, and the ceiling.
you should look into 2 products that once you try, I guarantee you will encorporate into your repairs. Those products are cgc concrete fill (commonly know as con-fill), and Fiba-fuse sheet roll. The rest is up to you
Love this! But I think it wouldve been a better idea to skim the whole wall while youre at it 👍 Another solution would have been to laminate some half inch drywall over top of the wall and then tape regularly
I tried this years ago and it didn't work on my plaster walls. I found a product called Crack Tape. It is a lot like drywall tape but much stronger and it has holes so the drywall mud binds to it.
If there is drywall cracking it is more often than not due to a settling foundation.. the foundation falls and then the framing comes with it giving you cracks in your sheet rock
Drywall in general a ton of work brother lol. I usually pull trim put EJ's but that is if customer doesn't want full demo but still that new Drywall smell so to speak. I hate lathe and plaster usually comes with a side of water damage and mold.
@Caulk King poor mixing when first applied, the moisture evaporated too quick when it dried out. Major work in another room. How many more you need? Notsowiseneheimer
If you can't afford to gut the whole wall and put up a whole wall yourself. It's better to do it this way until you're able to get professionals to do it for you.
Honestly, the best way to do it is to have a professional come remove the plaster and lath because they used asbestos fibers in it until the late 1980's!
Tear all that out, put good insulation behind it and replace it with sheet rock. A crew of 2 could finish that wall in 2 hours plus dry time. The amount of time you're putting into cutting, drilling, filling, spackling, sanding, and panting you could be working on something else. If you're really lazy just put 1/4 inch sheet rock right over it using spackle backing and screws to secure it.
Great video want to Jesse take a paintbrush no paint on it obviously and really saturate up the cracks in the area there it’ll help the Bondo and hear better to the exposed would latth
If you want a long term cheap fix Pop the baseboard and laminate the wall with a fresh sheet of drywall. This is kind of a waste of money it's just gonna crack in other places
Instead of paper or fiberglass mesh tape, try using fibafuse joint tap. It's a fine woven tape that is extremely thin and strong.
Jalapeño solutions 😅
@@nothingsimpostleble1593 why?
@@muf they mean a UA-camr that uses that tape to repair.
Use a grout removal tool to remove plaster as 5 x 5" squares to the depth of the lathe every few feet distance down the crack, then use bonding and real basecoat plaster into those patches, pushing the plaster behind the exposed edge of the plaster, feather to the existing plaster to hold the plaster to the wall. This will anchor the whole section. Use the oscillating grout removal tool to carve out the cracks enough to expose gaps in the lathe for new plaster, an inch or two wide. Use Plaster Weld and Structolite for a basecoat into the bare strips where the cracks used to be and finish with a veneer that matches the original. Learning to plaster is fun.
The grout tool is really fast, painting Plaster Weld is quick and mixing plaster takes just a handful of minutes with a bucket and a pointing trowel. The hard part is watching plaster videos to get the technique -- it's hard but not that hard as plasterers make it out to be. Use screeding for excess and smooth with a trowel, with upward and turning motion and an angle so it glides not removes, water the tools to glide. Block out the light and use a flashlight down the wall to see waves to flatten. Let set partially and go back to scrape and smooth. Finish with a sponge or brush. I make my own plaster based on the typical 1930s recipe -- you can order the components online or use premixed. You can add portland to create a stronger plaster.
Drywall over plaster works well but I'm not too sure if it will introduce mold or not. I remove durabond from plaster and replaster when I see it. Durabond recracks quickly without tape and putting tape on plaster makes no sense when you have that nice lathe behind it to anchor with real plaster.
👍
where r u located
What’s the recipe?
Step 1: rip it all out and put drywall up
Yeah, i had à job once, the plaster was "dead" you cant do anything on That, i made multiple coat of fine finition coat spend à lot of time on it, just to understand That, adding insulated drywall is à lot faster
Drywall is worse.
@@scoobydoo5447 lol, you never worked in construction. Drywall is plaster reinforced
that takes more time and materials
@@gelooso Can pay for things once or twice. These older houses usually have more then just the cracks from the laft separation. The cracks are usually sign of actual wall movement from subpar older framing and joist. Now if you are just trying to flip a house this is best option.
Holy crap dude. I saw this like 3 weeks ago. Used it today. You just saved me so much time and effort. Liked and subbed dude ty
Lee Valley Tools sells plaster washers that don't need to be removed, they are very slim when screwed down and can simply be covered with compound.
I've used these, they're great.
Thats good to know! I live in a 100 year old house and have alot of cracks to repair, thanks!
Fantastic work! This is exactly what we like to see, when I saw the Durabond I knew this was a professional repair. Wear a respirator when cutting the cracks out! It most likely has a layer of lead based paint and possibly asbestos fibers!
The old guys love durabond.
Nicely done! I recognize the advantages of drywall, but plaster and lath has the quietness and feel of solidity that drywall cannot match. Would not want it again, ha ha, but it does have certain advantages.
Difficult to find people who still know how to work with plaster but this product will easily have 4 times the longevity and durability of any drywall job😊
I was ready to pick this one apart, guidance for this online is always awful.
This is actually an awesome fix and great to see. Wouldn't work in my neck of the woods; damned dot and dab, but great to see someone rising the actual issues rather than the symptom.
Good job. Id recommend a quick blast of primer first. Adhesive and mud will stick better. Those plastic washers are great!
Wellcrette it's purple I've only used 20 minn durabond on patches but those cracks should hold.
Thanks so much. I really needed to learn this technique.
That wall has more cracks then Kensington Ave in Philly.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
lol that's facts .this city is made of plaster n lath
Truth 🤣
Love people who post inside jokes, that less than 1% of people will relate to 🤣
Kensington is meth and heroin though... 🤷🤷🤷
Thank you for this. You have made my project so much easier 😊❤
We had a ceiling that had come free from the lath. It was still in one piece but was drooping down.
We went into the attic, poured & spread a couple gallons of waterproof white glue, then braced the whole thing up tight from below & let it dry for a couple days.
15 years later it was still holding tight. Simply, easy, & quite effective.
I would imagine the original plaster was vapour permeable, and you’ve completely ruined its functionality. Simple, easy, but not correct. Just get things done properly, now if you were to take it down it’s twice as much of a pain as it would’ve been
Nice job 👍 Best repair idea I've seen outside of epoxy resin poured on the backside to reattach to the shrunken lattes ,cheers🎉
Yeah my walls have more cracks then plumbers convention.
Excellent excellent method thanks for sharing that!!!
Our pleasure!
Thanks for carefully avoiding showing the adhesive you're using - really helpful.
No worries! Lol! We used about 4 types in this video to figure out what works best. Dynaflex from dap has a great consistency and adhesive quality👍
I’ve been very successful with a similar method. I use Ace 1/16 masonry bit to pre-drill the holes for the screws in the same way which prevents additional cracking and crumbling. Then I just install the screws and leave them. I brush. Acrylic additive into the cracks and do the first coat with mesh tape with hot mud and acrylic additive mixed 50-50 with water. Never had a re-crack.
Dam that’s a lot of work
no shortcuts, you guys did it the right way, one and done
Back in the 90's, a random guy walking around in the parking lot of our local super market did this exact procedure to my uncles Pulsar. Man, he was pissed after the work was done and drove it like that for another 20 years. He still has that car today.
I'm a hardwall plasterer and it's a great idea mate and for those places where mess is a no go, I couldn't think of a better way to do it.
But in saying that most times mess is fine and I just hit that shit with a grinder with a honing disk on it and go to town on the wall and re do the whole wall again.
I've played around with it alot to find what causes spiderweb cracking and other cracks and so far I've found calaire is a big issue for float plastering for interior work and for external rendering (sand finish) I've found the use of way to much lime causes it to go off to quick and essentially snap dry.
You see it alot with creme cement and lime render as the lime content of the creme is already quite high.
But what do I know I'm just a plasterer aha
I made the mistake of doing this once. For a friend of mine, it was a little 10x10 bedroom with cracks on every wall just like this video. What a massive time sink. And at the end of it all, no matter how much plastering and sanding I did, the walls still looked wavy and awful. Lesson learned: next time, rip it out and put up drywall. I think if I wanted to do a particularly nice job, I might do a double layer of drywall, to match the thickness of the original lath and plaster, but also to provide more sound deadening. Would've taken half the time, much less stress, and the cost of the drywall would've been under $100.
Good point, making old plaster look perfect is a challenge. But don’t underestimate the mess and amount of work involved in tearing out the plaster and lathe. That will require you to re-do and re-cut all baseboards, casings, crowns, jambs etc. and then by the time you get the drywall hung you still have to tape and mud the whole room, sand, prime, and paint 😅
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Hmm, no. Like I said, I've been down that road. What I would do is simply leave the baseboard in place, and only remove enough plaster and lath to allow new drywall to slip behind it. Shim all the studs to allow drywall to equal original plaster depth. That would not be very messy at all, compared to the dusty nightmare I endured for several days. One day of demolition would be plenty. The rest would be nice clean work. Calculating work, which I am good at and enjoy. As opposed to the artistry required to even out wavy plaster. It's a matter of preference, I suppose.
Use a similar method, orange foam to bond to lath and I use PlasterWeld as a primer with 20 min mud, a few hours and it's ready to go. Watch out for lead though, old houses have a lot, HEPA vacuum and a final damp mop will meet clearance standards.
I have done same repair. Only variation I did was mix quick Crete bonding adhesive 1:1 ratio, shake well and flush holes before using quick grab by locktite and squeeze
Into holes. In my opinion it prevents the moisture in product being absorbed to quick. Let set 3 to 4 days, and finish as this video shows. I used paper tape. Durabond as shown for taping mud. Then hot mud easy sand for fine finish. Be careful with durabond- it hardens like stone and is not sandable.100 plus year old house, been 3 years at least and job still looks great. Nice video great job and explanation.
House settles again after patch work… back to square one😂
If that house has plaster. It was built probably 70+ years ago, it's settled dude.
Not if theres a gutter issue pouring water next to the foundation and the foundation is moving due to freeze thaw cycles. I see it all the time and instruct homeowners to address theri gutter issues BEFORE fixing cracked walls@@Don.kee.ho-tay
Not with durabond
Settle ? That house is probably over 70 years old.
Used this exact method before. Works great
Spot on. Great job. The one thing I would recommend is of course lightly tap the whole wall and inspect to see if there are any other loose plaster. Then decide if it's more than half and there are chunks just floating being held together by the paint then yes replace it all w drywall. And I know I've ran into clients who have wanted to keep w the plaster because it doesn't mildew nearly as bad. I used to live in Florida. The humidity played the biggest factor in customers desiring the true hardcoat plaster. Drywall compound is not good enough. You can put a most minimal skipcoat of drywall compound as a finish coat to make smooth like glass. And don't forget if you do use plaster , make sure and apply primer to are for ensured bond.
Great video. Here's what I had to do in a farm house.
😎 if you don't have plastic caps use the tops of beer or soda caps( plastic or metal caps).
I've also used metal regular washers. In past.
And finally you should do wallrock fibreliner wallpaper.
Nice informative video, thank you I learned something today and not stagnant!!!
Ha! In in our Brooklyn rental the management just put up drywalls over the plaster before we moved in...👈🙃
Best way to fix a plaster wall: demo it and install drywall - haha. Honestly man, I’m really impressed with your skills. I lack the skill you have, so drywall for me! Well done.
Should you screw and glue down all the cracks or just the ones with movement?
I spent all day yesterday opening them up and filling with spackle. Did a couple of them a few years ago like this that are still holding up.
This time after sanding, some are solid and some still move. Just got some joint compound. Planning on a skim coat over repair tape.
Shout out to modern adhesives for making this possible. It wasn't that long ago that you wouldn't be able to do this repair reliably, and it would fail again. Now, as shown in this video, that wall is half adhesive. It's a composite now.
🙌
It will definitely work. I prime the area (usually oil base underneath) trowel an anti fracture membrane over the area (like Redgard) after dry, I use joint compound. Depending on the severity, I sometimes use mesh within the Redgard. I haven't had one re-crack yet. Over 15 years doing it that way.
Redgard is for waterproofing. Using joint compound is expected.
Never seen these washers… good job
Beautiful completion.
Man this looks so easy but it is damn tough 😢
That wall has more cracks than Kensington Avenue in Philly! 😂
Put the durabond on thin! It is way way tougher to sand than plaster but amazing stuff
Do not use plaster on cracks in a plaster wall.
The cracks are not consistent in width.
Plaster shrinks horribly and will crack over and over everytime it gets humidity.
Plaster an entire wall the same thickness is different than crack repair.
Use plus style compound for flexibility in repair.
And if its as bad as the wall in the video just replace it all with drywall for a real permanent upgrade not repair
As in plasterboard right ?
Plaster does not shrink , but it doesn't have the glue that durabond does .Since it won't properly bond it will appear as a shrink crack.
My parents house was like this. All plaster.
Nice repair. Some folks say replace with dry wall, I think what you did was just fine.
QUESTION: I don't have plaster and lathe but plaster ceilings in a 1946 home in South FL. The ceilings are secured by nails. Someone told me something about old ceilings that were done this way for a short period of time. Do you know what it is? Something to do with lime?
Do a cracked ceiling plaster repair video please!
Just hold your phone up above your head and watch again 😄
Clean out the cracks fill with gorilla glue . Works ever time . Especial in reoccurrence cracks
After the plaster adhesive dries, apply a large sheet of vinyl window screen and plaster topcoat the entire area.
Correct me if Im wrong but if you start seeing cracks in your wall doesn't that mean the foundations have shifted?
A structural engineer told me this rule-of-thumb (for brick buildings at least): Vertical cracks are usually just harmless movement of the building over time. But diagonal cracks suggest something wrong with the foundations.
I think cracks add character to home,gives that "lived in" feeling. lol
First time I've seen some one repair plaster right. However if there are too many crack and it's crumbly, I pull the trim and lam with 1/4 inch over the top of it.
Would not even buy a home with lath and plaster too much trouble awesome video thanks
Great work. Where to get those washer?
Those people who live in tremor (Earthquake)areas have problems with cracks in walls.
In apartment that I used to live in...had to be fixed every six months. However, I moved to another apartment in the same complex and haven't had the same problem 👍
Nice job dude.
Stucco is good to use in plaster walls. 2 years later and have yet to see any cracks.
That’s what’s the originally on the wall
Great work 👏👍
On ANY crack the ends of the crack need to be drilled at the center to prevent the crack from spreading further in the future.
Yeah I heard you say "shend" instead of "send." It's all good, we all mistakes. 😊thanks for the tips.
😁👍
5 minute mud works great. Will never crack out and once it starts to dry you can work it with a wet sponge and a blade. No paper is needed behind the mud either. I have had customers for 20 years and some a few longer and never had a call back to fix anything I used 5 minute mud to patch I am a retired contractor.
Durabond is actually more resistant to cracking, unlike 5 min.
My question is how long did it actually take you to do the job at hand
Das Problem ist der Untergrund aus Holzlatten.Dieser arbeitet Fermazell nicht, deshalb wird es wieder Risse geben.
Die Arbeit an sich ist sehr gut ausgeführt.
I've started doing this a couple of times, never seemed to get enough adhesive behind to fully stick it and saying "drill holes in every other lath" is easier said than done, if it's not a wide crack how can you see? Are you marking out lath spacing in pencil before? Are all laths equally spaced? In some instances where the other options are egregious maybe but.....
This is exactly how I do it. Works great. I use metal window screen for the mesh.
Make sure you test for led before you start busying up the wall!
And asbestos
Good point, my 1918 plaster walls have lead paint. I might be wrong but I’d say that if there is plaster, there is lead paint down the many coats of paint that wall has gotten.
1/4 in drywall over top..tape it
What kind of adhesive did you use? Thanks
Gotta push as much of that mud as possible into those cracks! And what about adhesive in the cracks? Also should use a pva sealer/bonding agent before
He doesn’t need the bonding agent. He jerked off in the mud so it would stick.
Most people just want a patch job , not to redo the entire wall
It takes less time and money to do the whole thing!!! 👍☘️🇮🇪
Sure, but as a general contractor and master carpenter, I know for a fact that plaster and lath has carcinogens (cancer-causing compounds) in it and the best way to do that type of repair is to remove it and hang drywall (or sheetrock if you prefer, BTW "Sheetrock" is a brand name and the product is drywall, don't believe me look at the labels) in its place!
Just because someone wants something done a certain way, does not, in fact, mean they are right! I don't tell a surgeon what I think the best way is to do his job, just as I don't tell the granite guys how to level and shim the countertops when they're finishing off my cabinets! That's what they do, I just build the cabinets, islands, and tables (amongst many other things) they lay the granite, marble, or tile on! When I had gallbladder surgery, I sure as hell didn't tell the surgical team the best way to pull it out...
I do get what you are saying Michael, however in my professional opinion, I know that they are wrong! As the plaster and lath continues to crack (which it inevitably will with age) it will only exacerbate the problem later on. I know, I tried this on a house maybe 2 or 3 years into my career and had been called back maybe 6 or 7 years later to discover half the wall had nearly fallen on the child's bed! Luckily it was after they were up for the day! Spending a bit less today just might cause a bigger issue down the not-so-distant road!
If you do use this method, just be mindful of the products you are using and be especially careful, please! 🙏
Good luck to all in your future endeavors, I wish you all an abundance of success and happiness!!!
What most people want is usually the stupidest solution, because it doesn't actually solve anything, they're thinking that a short term solution is cheaper, when they will end up having to rip the whole fucking thing down and start fresh sooner or later anyway.
@@philiprooney3280 It don't see any way it would take less time and money to do the entire thing in drywall. You have to setup site and dust protection ( this is a finished home remember). Demo all the plaster & lathe, then haul it out of the house and eventually dispose of it. Clean up the mess made during the demo. Bring in and install the sheets of drywall, then tape, mud, and finish the drywall. After all that you have to prime and paint the wall you repaired, the two side walls, and the ceiling.
Takes less time to do the whole wall and patches can be seen if not done right!! I'm a Plasterer ✌️☘️🇮🇪
you should look into 2 products that once you try, I guarantee you will encorporate into your repairs. Those products are cgc concrete fill (commonly know as con-fill), and Fiba-fuse sheet roll. The rest is up to you
Fibafuse has been next to impossible to find in Canada for the last year at least. Always on back order for the rolls or the sheets
Can you use hot mud with mesh tape instead?
This method includes hot mud (Durabond in this case) and mesh tape. Do you mean skip all the other steps?
@@RefreshHomeImprovements quick set 20 minutes instead of durabond ?
Love this! But I think it wouldve been a better idea to skim the whole wall while youre at it 👍
Another solution would have been to laminate some half inch drywall over top of the wall and then tape regularly
That sounds good but when you laminate the walls now your door jams are too narrow. This repair was legit.
I thought I was tripping until you verified at the end lol
I thought I hated this then I thought about it. Idk if I'd go for a crack this big .
I tried this years ago and it didn't work on my plaster walls. I found a product called Crack Tape. It is a lot like drywall tape but much stronger and it has holes so the drywall mud binds to it.
If there is drywall cracking it is more often than not due to a settling foundation.. the foundation falls and then the framing comes with it giving you cracks in your sheet rock
It's not drywall it's plaster & lath.
Simply screw a single layer of 4 x 3 plasterboards over the whole wall. They are cheap. Scrim tape the joints and skim. It’s quick easy and low cost.
This might be a dumb question, but what glu did he use?
That’s a fine question, it’s construction adhesive from the Gorilla Glue company
Find studs, 1/4" drywall finish accordingly
Not a bad solution if your trim and moulding is thick enough to receive it cleanly. It’s also still a ton of work
Drywall in general a ton of work brother lol. I usually pull trim put EJ's but that is if customer doesn't want full demo but still that new Drywall smell so to speak. I hate lathe and plaster usually comes with a side of water damage and mold.
I just did the easy fix. Tear down every bit of plaster and put up drywall😂
😵💫that’s not easy
Step 1: get rid that archaic lath thing and move forward with better materials. Drywall works fine
Which adhesive you recommend?
Adhesive added & taps good stuff
How do I order the plastic washers?
Search for “plaster washers” online.
If you're going to go that far, you might as well overboard it... job done 😊
If you’re going to put a bandaid on a foundation issue. Use caulk.
Why does it have to be foundation issues? When plaster cracks there are a lot more reasons why.
@@dannythorpe1425 okay give me some reasons wisenheimer
@Caulk King poor mixing when first applied, the moisture evaporated too quick when it dried out. Major work in another room. How many more you need? Notsowiseneheimer
@Caulk King maybe time for a new name hey?
@@Poopoonewnew did you even know it's the same with caulking? Dry it out to quick and it cracks.
Would this be the same for a ceiling?
I’d of re-skimmed that in less time.
That’s a proper repair.
Even tho I can see it in the end ? Come on..
Overcomplicated for no reason.
Terrible results
🤷🏻
@@Mikhail.Tolstykh I said that’s a proper repair😑
If you can't afford to gut the whole wall and put up a whole wall yourself. It's better to do it this way until you're able to get professionals to do it for you.
Honestly, the best way to do it is to have a professional come remove the plaster and lath because they used asbestos fibers in it until the late 1980's!
I said to myself, What a crap job, I can still see all the cracks. Then I realized the cracks were from my phone screen.
Tear all that out, put good insulation behind it and replace it with sheet rock. A crew of 2 could finish that wall in 2 hours plus dry time. The amount of time you're putting into cutting, drilling, filling, spackling, sanding, and panting you could be working on something else. If you're really lazy just put 1/4 inch sheet rock right over it using spackle backing and screws to secure it.
Great video want to Jesse take a paintbrush no paint on it obviously and really saturate up the cracks in the area there it’ll help the Bondo and hear better to the exposed would latth
My question is how much do you charge? Does it cost more for me to just replace with sheet rock?
Excellent.
Thank you!
Fibrefuse the whole wall,works for me
Beautiful job gringo
Imagine if Americans somehow learned how to build sturdy houses.
Bruh you ever seen plaster and lathe? I've seen houses with 100 year old plaster and lathe walls in mint condition
You realize plaster is 100+ year old tech that is no longer used, right? And you know drywall is used everywhere in the world, not just the US?
Lol dude a crack in the wall doesn't mean the building isn't sturdy. Houses settle, little thing called gravity.
Correct the 20 minute mud is more the consistency of plaster than drywall mud which can be used to top coat.
I wish I would have seen this about 2 months ago!
If you want a long term cheap fix Pop the baseboard and laminate the wall with a fresh sheet of drywall. This is kind of a waste of money it's just gonna crack in other places