ZIP System Rainscreen & New Code Requirements - What you need to know!
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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As a mason I've been suggesting rain screen for a few yrs now. Can't seem to get homeowners or builders to see the importance. Once a local builder went as far as providing landscape fabric. Hope this catches on, for the homeowners sake. Thank you for all the great advice and knowledge. Love your videos
I can’t believe that people don’t understand why tis is essential.
Landscape fabric? Is that effective?
in the UK, a 2in (50mm) gap is a standard for the airgap usually between two masonry leaves. On newer and newer construction with part L regs in place, more places are doing Masonry outer, 2x4/6 inner leaf (for the insulation value) with that 50mm cavity and a rain screen material for our incredibly wet climate
@@Jack-OfAll-Trades UK is wet, really? 🤣 I heard when they have sunshine its a like a holiday. Well the US is so cheap when it comes to housing. Production builders will go with the cheapest materials around and just have the homeowners rebuild the place in like 20 years when their loan is paid off. I think they do that to keep the employment levels high in the construction business.
@@mdhofstee hahaha yeah wet is an understatement I think 😂 though our summers have been getting kind of extreme 86f/30c, high humidity temps but no AC
Been doing a rain screen for 20 years in Nova Scotia. It’s so incredibly important, and can be achieved with minimal experience for most product, other than cedar shingles.
So excited to see this new product from Huber and even more excited to be using it on the Build Show Build Boston project. Great thanks to you, Matt, and to Steve Baczek for the education that you are giving so many of us that inspires advances and new projects in our communities that serve as models for others. Without your videos, I never would have started my own journey that brought about the Boston project that I am excited to see moving forward every day! Thanks also to Huber for such amazing new materials that solve building science issues and make our building more long-lasting! That reminds me of a Steve Baczek quote, "Long live our buildings".
Looks like a great product and you could install the bottom course upside down so the overlap strip is at the top and tape that to the zip sheathing so any water that comes in from above is directed over the top of the bottom course leaving less water to be in contact with the bottom of the wall
I disagree with putting it upside down. That outer layer is not a water proofing. I believe the main purpose of that cloth outer layer is to keep material from interfering with the cavity layer. In other words, it keeps stucco mud from getting into the air chamber. The rain screen is designed to allow stucco to evaporate moisture from both the exterior facing surface as well as the interior facing surface, the inside surface. It is dealing with moisture at the gaseous level, not the fluid level, i.e. evaporation. When you tape that flap down because you put the bottom skirt upside down, you run the risk of cutting off that air barrior needed to expel the evaporated moisture It is also important to allow air to enter and leave that barrior from both top and bottom of wall as well as door and window opening, top and bottom. This becomes a problem with insects and small animals entering that cavity and efforts have to be made to prevent that
I've been saving your videos for a while now. I hope to build a home soon. I'll have the "details" saved to show my builder just how I want it done. thank you Mr Risinger.
Tune in next time as we continue our journey towards 100 layer walls.
Lol
Exactly, this is getting ridiculous.
Lol. ....This guy . Like exterior stucco doesn't get painted . ( Sealed ).
😂 they want to sell more stuff.
I am remodeling my 1960 home with stucco, removed stucco saw water damage at 2 locations close to foundation, because soil is above stucco level.
Remodeling bathroom, no water damage anywhere.
60 years ago they didn’t have all this “technology”
2X4, weather barrier (may be tar paper), stucco.
If we build it right we probably don’t need lot of these.
😂😂😅
Great channel, Matt. Congratulations. I love the way you built in US not so time ago, but in few years, plastic industry is gaining more and more presence in a standard house construction, and the worst of all, the polyurethane foam fever. Isn't it possible meet code without all those relatively new antiecological products? Greetings from Spain.
What a bunch of crap ! A new house won't last long enough for a person to pay for it.
Thanks Matt you’re excellent at asking the right question that I would have asked so I could even understand.
Build show Rocks!
Doesn't the secondary water barrier create all new penetrations in your primary zip barrier? When you attach it to the wall, all those nails/staples just penetrated the zip and there's no way for you to seal it after.
The plastic washer on the outside creates a watertight seal between the nailhead and the rain screen through the force needed to drive it into the sheathing. Zip system is osb + tar paper, so this is no different than driving a nail through an asphalt shingle into a roof assembly. As long as you are not exposing this to standing water this will not compromise the zip panel.
My question exactly. Then for stucco, lathe will be stapled over the secondary barrier into the first. And Matt considers the first to be the air barrier. What effect do all those staples have on the performance of the air barrier?
Also wondering about this, and although all the attention is on watertightness, I don't see much discussion anywhere of airtightness. My first guess is that we'd need something like a Zip "2.5" concept, with liquid flashing applied over lathe staples in the same way that it can be applied to overdriven nails at the sheathing layer.
I built a home using ZIP-R and LP siding. I insisted on a rainscreen and we went with a 1/4" plastic mesh covered in a plastic fabric. My contractor said he never uses rain screens. LP siding is exposed OSB on the back and would be pressed up against ZIP, which water doesn't absorb into. I think both my siding and paint will last much longer than had I not used a rain screen.
Curious... How did you vent it at the bottom?
With this system are you going to need another rainscreen between the siding and the smooth back of the zip rainscreen? It doesn't look permeable.
@@tanshihus1 I bought a few rolls of 6" wide bug screen, wrapped and stapled around the rain screen, so open at the bottom with less fear of bugs crawling into the rain screen.
@@bobbray9666 Thanx for replying. It also needs to be open at the top. The idea is to allow air to dry out condensation that forms on the back of the brick/stone veneer cladding.
@@tanshihus1 I clearly stated that I was using LP siding. Not stone or veneer stone. There are enough gaps between the siding pieces that will allow for evaporation without an opening on top, especially since my eves are 4 feet on a single story walkout.
In previous videos Matt described sealing the screw holes in the Zipsystem facing. How would you seal all the holes created by the fasteners used to attach the rain screen?
Bubble gum
you could put a strip of bitumen peel and stick down, but really it's not needed. With Zip the issue with air / water leakage at the nail holes is with over driven heads (nail or screw). Sealing those is an extra step that provides security, if you don't have heads that may have driven through the barrier it's not a problem.
The real answer is the rain screen makes the holes null. There’s no hydraulic pressure to push the water in through the tiny holes. I had the same question about below grade fasteners through waterproofing. But what they’re always fastening is the drainage mat that makes their hole not a problem. I know it’s weird.
I don't think that's required. It isn't intended to be totally impermeable. this is the same with every siding and stucco, and standard practice: you usually are going to penetrate it with many nails and screws. I believe that is partly why two layers are required for stucco. You make so many holes plus you want free-draining layers. For ZIP, nails do not have to be sealed (check manufacturer installation requirements). Matt suggests sealing the ZIP nails in wet areas, such as the lower part of walls--it's an extra measure. Like ZIP itself, I suspect this material gives some sealing around the nails, due to elasticity.
Love the Stinger Green cap fasteners!
We use rainscreen to protect WOOD siding, though I am not sure this product would be the best for that since we are seeking to drain the back face of the siding.
When I built my house I did not have a ton of money to spend on certain things, so I built my house out of real wood, and used hardy siding; years later , I threw some 30 lbs. felt paper over the Hardy board, and some Rock Wool, then 8 inches of Texas White limestone. You would never know, so do not knock Hardy board, it is the best option for starting out, and later you can just cover over it, and it is that much more protection for your home, so if your a home owners ass...., I would not ban, hardy siding, it is a great "starter" option that can be covered over, without removing it.. I do not use the "was wood" but I use the tape and other products on my real wood homes, works great, Great Show. Matt.
Been using Mortairvent for years. Simply staple lath to it and stucco mortar adheres to the mesh fibers. Great product.
Vapor barrier on vapor barrier? Why not 3, or 4 or 5 vapor barriers? Everyone in the comments seems to think its cheep insurance,,, because they are paying? I was interested in building science or the best vapor barrier, for MY money. No problems with my simple house wrap in all my years. This is too much. If I go the extra expense to do all the zip sheathing and tape and liquid flash which is already "Premium", wouldnt this be in the realm of "Ultra stupid platinum premium"?
Does this work with exterior insulation?
I don’t understand why they made that rain screen for waterproofing..they have been told that zip system always provides 100% waterproofing that’s our special technique
LOL...EXACTLY!😂😂
$$$$$$
Because code changed to require 2 water proofing layers under the exterior brick, masonry, stucco, and other water absorbing materials. If you listened to the video he said it 5+ times!
Mat! Luke! Huber!! Thank you for this great content! Looking forward to building my Forever Home "soon" in a Commonwealth county that currently "requires" ibc2009 code lol, glad to see engineered product thatll make my house more durable than outdated code!
Dang. 2009 still. Low bar indeed. Best to you!
@buildshow can I use the rainscreen onto of tyvex, I wanted to use all zip, but was not available at the time
Since workmanship is a thing of the past... the next best thing is to engineer solutions then make it code... belt & suspender thinking translates to higher cost... leaving "affordable" in the rear view mirror.
This is starting to get ridiculous... aren't there any composite or plastic type sheathing solutions, instead of having to apply 400 layers on top of plywood to protect it from water?
What's the point of paying up (BIG TIME) for the Zip System sheathing and tape, then rolling the tape, only to now need this? I don't get it. I thought the Zip boards were pretty much waterproof on the outside, especially if you dot the nails with the liquid sealer. So: This is either complete overkill ($$$) or the Zip Boards aren't as good as previously thought. Which is it?
As for the two water barrier code, I call BS. This looks soft enough to flex under the wire lathe. I’d like to see if the stucco cracks more with this stuff. Personally, if I were building something to be stuccoed, I’d go with masonry.
Zip boards are not waterproof. They are water resistant. Either Zip is just making shit for really high end all out construction because they know people will buy it being from Zip system (you see 99% new construction all zip system now) and it's something to add protection or and most likely in my opinion, the Zip system boards aren't nearly as good as originally thought over long term. Just wait till you have Zip system tyvek for on top of all the other shit lol
@@mikecousin8523 Brick has an air gap... Not sure you'd need this for that. Basically, this stuff looks like a soft version of drain board that you'd install below grade on a basement wall...
@@xcreeseseater38 New code rules require TWO water barriers behind "reservoir cladding" e.g. masonry or stucco. A little reading comprehension goes a long way....
@@ckm-mkc reading comprehension? In a video?
@@Adam_K_W That air gap behind the brick is not a true air gap. It gets filled with mortar and touches the sheeting throughout the wall. Those areas will rot due to constant moisture from the brick and mortar.
I call BS on this product, and also the new code that supposedly requires 2 WRB's. That's ridiculous. If you use ZIP then minimum 3/8" thick battens for rainscreen, you can put whatever cladding you want on the house and it will be fine for 100 years - even in Seattle.
this just adds more work if you have to still then add furring strips to attach siding to, right?
What this is convinced me of is that I don’t want Reservoir cladding to begin with.
Noel pointer zip is that it’s already watertight an airtight and everything and then have to add a middle layer and then have to add Facer. It’s just a pain.
I’ll just use something like hardy board instead .
Hardie still requires a rain screen by the way, as does smartside. But the easy and cheap way to do this is to install 3/8" or 1/2" OSB strips top to bottom and then your hardy goes on top of it. You'll also need to add these same strips around around rough openings so your windows and doors are fastened into them. That way when your siding butts up into the windows and doors at the correct plane.
If you were installing horizontal Hardi siding on this would you still install the 3/4" vertical bats to attached the Hardi to, or would you just nail the Hardi to this? @risingerbuild
I have the same concern. It seems stable enough to go without anything else for mechanical fastening.
You just need a minimum of 7/16” sheathing per their installation instructions. So you could either use a rain screen such as this one to allow airflow, and attach the planks directly over it, or you could install vertical bats to create airflow, or you could just install two WRB’s such as two layers of tyvek and install the hardie planks directly over that, although that probably wouldn’t be best practice.
If you're doing horizontal plank siding and vertical bats, that would already pretty much work as a rainscreen and I don't believe the double WRB would be necessary when set up that way.
@@moocowzrock I agree, one or the other.
Hey Matt, I was hoping you could do an episode going over the different products to properly seal pipe penetrations through basement concrete walls. (Sewer and water pipes with or without sleeves) thanks! Keep up the good work.
Hi Matt, this sounds interesting, but I'll admit that I'm lost. It sounds like you're saying this is code for reservoir claddings only and not all cladding types (3:52 - 4:01). A few of questions if you've got time:
1) Could you clarify which specific types of products qualify as "reservoir cladding"? I assume your list won't be exhaustive, but ideally a list of the more common ones we should be aware of would be a big help.
2) Will you do a follow-up video with guidance on detail after this layer goes on? Right now we're just seeing a product highlighted where it isn't clear if, say, battens should still be used in addition to this new layer if doing something like fiber cement siding (which I assume is considered a reservoir cladding and so will require a second WRB like this one by code).
3) Could you also indicate if there are other products out there that would be reasonable? And if not, could you indicate why this Huber product is so much better? Right now it kind of feels like this particular product is being held up without anyone (besides Huber itself) kicking the tires. And yes, I do trust Huber's testing to do a great job in their work, but as you and others on the Build Show have said -- trust, but verify.
1. Cementitious cladding material.
2. No furring strips needed as this is your screen allowing airflow and you already have sheathing that is 7/16” thick beneath it to nail to. Would only need the furring if you didn’t have solid sheathing or didn’t have a rain screen already.
3. Unsure.
@@jimyeats Thanks for the reply. Regarding 2, there isn't airflow immediately behind the siding as far as I can tell with this product. The airflow occurs between the sheathing and the product, not the product that appears to be a sheet on the exterior side and the siding that would be placed on it (at least there isn't a gap without furring strips/battens).
@@dosadoodle Right but the rain screen allows vapor diffusion. It also isn’t organic. So it’s creating a WRB that the cement fiber board can rest on and also providing a rain screen behind it that allows airflow. That will then allow the fiber cement board to dry on the back side since this product allows for vapor permeability.
@@jimyeats Perhaps all is well, but I'm still feeling nervous for this product if we're eliminating the siding air gap, even if it is only for something like a fiber cement siding. I don't like the idea of my siding being wet for longer and so going through more freeze/thaw cycles by reducing the drying time (an artifact of the siding now being both thermally decoupled from the building and not having an air gap immediately behind the siding). Maybe all is well -- vapor drive and permeance seem like the most complex building science aspects of control layers, so I'll readily admit I don't understand what is / is not okay -- but this video (and so the product) created a lot more questions than answers, and I haven't seen this type of product discussed on this or any other Build Show or other building science channels.
I feel like the building code you speak of should be considered building guidelines. Many if not most local building departments are years if not a decade behind with updating their codes.
Codes are simply minimum guidelines and you have to meet them in some way. But in regard to updates, our codes (and the International Building Codes) are updated every three years, and often changes are made every year at random periods. Then our building department adds requirements on top of that. Codes are MINIMUM standards. They aren't state of the art or fine homebuilding. Codes can't make up for poor or dishonest workmanship. Most houses of past years that fail in some way, often do not even follow the code or standard practice properly.
Guess they found out that the OSB is rotting.
I put up Zip sheathing on my new build… still added a rain screen for drying using 1x3… this replaces the 1x3… provides an exit for the water and drying. This is definitely a plus add to the zip SYSTEM.
That’s why I’m making my house out of concrete ICF
If it can’t dry it’s gonna die. -Nicastro
@@buildshow next time you are in Boston drive by the salt depot In Chelsea (four minutes from Logan) there’s a commercial building that has had exposed Zip System sheeting for 6 years now and still is holding up great. For some reason they never put siding on that building. By the salt depot on marginal st.
Yes osb Will not dry behind zip as water from inside cannot get out and the osb Will rott
Wet feet in Wellingtons
Tyvek is tickled right now.
Any issues expected when puncturing that Zip sheathing when installing that rain screen?
9:00 I always try to stop the video before the squeaky "On the Build Show". Sure glad I didn't today! 🤣
How does this specific“rain screen” allow the back of hardi, wood, etc to breath and dry evenly. This seems like a wood product would still sweat against the backing even though sheathing is safe. Am I wrong?
This is a significant improvement.
Lol
Good stuff, 1/4” air gap tho….Can Zip make it to at least 3/8” air gap.
I think it is 3/8.
I must be missing something. I see how this helps the wall assembly stay dry but how does this dry the siding? With essentially zero perm how is it different than just applying the siding straight to the zipp?
2 issues. First is the vulnerability of the ZIP itself, because the whole principle of the ZIP system is that it is a "perfect" water barrier, which is not possible in reality. Seams and penetrations that didn't get sealed or J-rolled adequately, dirty surface before the tape is applied, nail strikes during attaching the ZIP that don't get sealed adequately, penetrations that get added later than they should ("oops" moments), etc, etc. If the siding is directly on the ZIP there is not a definitive air gap to allow aggressive drying, so if any water gets behind the siding, any imperfections of the ZIP system (which are basically caused by application, and handling issues) make it vulnerable. Second, the lack of adequate drying behind the siding will rot the siding from the inside out if water infiltrates, even if the ZIP is perfect. Probably not an issue with cement board based siding, but the ZIP vulnerabilities are not solved (nor are the mold issues). This idea is really to overcome that. Oops, I just realized this my fourth comment to this thread.... way too much, sorry.
@@nosedoctor That just explains why we need a rain screen but doesn’t explain how a basically zero perm wrb right behind the siding allows the siding to dry. To me it looks like there needs to be another ventilation layer between this product and the siding so that it can dry.
@@SnappyWasHere depends on the perm rating of the outer layer of the "structured" wrap. If if has vapor permeability, presuming good installation technique, the physical space created by the little matrix of entangled mesh squares allow air circulation between the ZIP wall and the wrap. If the wrap is vapor permeable, the moisture on the back of the siding can evaporate easily "into" the space.
It's a forgone conclusion that no residential construction will keep all water out of any given wall, or certainly the interface between the structural wall and the outer veneer of the wall (i.e. the brick, the stucco, the stone, siding etc.), so there has to be a way for evaporative drying to occur easily. I have not studied this particular product but I am guessing that is the idea here, as it is with other products that seem to be of a similar nature. If not, then I agree, the siding directly on the surface of the wrap would likely be a problem. That's how I see it.
@@nosedoctor They said in the video it has a perm of 7 on the outer layer so it’s actually worse than straight against the zipp. On my shop I have a fully vapor open setup and it is working awesome but I’m working on what to do on my house. We have no codes here so for me zipp with a normal rain screen is probably the solution. This multi layer stuff would get super expensive in a hurry.
@@SnappyWasHere I checked out the Huber website and they mention siding in the very brief intro to the product, but they don't show any diagrammatic representation of the recommendation for construction, but they do specifically show a recommendation for a 1" gap for reservoir cladding (stone, brick, stucco, etc). They do not stipulate the use any standoff or furring for siding, so not sure. Perm index of 7 is similar to latex paint. They must assume that the siding will be attached with furring/nailing strips. Automatically an air space is created.
Can you show more details of what you do for rain screens near the soffit if it’s a spray foamed house
Vent grid all the way!
I thought the point of the zip system was to ensure water & air tight/resistant?
This product is outboard of the water/air tightness, and is used to dry a cladding system that soaks up lots of water. That's why they used the sponge analogy, but imagine the sponge was nailed on, so the ZIP has a wet sponge over top a bunch of puncture holes.
Looks like great product. Why no suggestions of the details of top and bottom venting? This presentation is prtty much , "here, you figure it out, (and take all the liability)"
A weep screed at the bottom behind the rainscreen provides the ventilation you need at the bottom
I assume there's no R value attributed, but it has to add some to the wall assembly. Just allowing heated air to rise up and out must help. Would be neat to see some testing info.
Rainscreen, as a building science concept, has existed for many decades and has been heavily tested to always provide an incredible increase in the durability of building assemblies. It is not a new product at all, just new for Huber. There is a binder at my work with samples identical to this that is over 20 years old.
If you install this under Hardi siding, do you still need to caulk the ends? is it important to keep it watertight?
I want to see the zip covering, tape and this rainscreen 50 or more yrs from now. Maybe just crumbling away.
Matt, on a stucco install; do you still install Zip with a 5/8 gap between joints and tape over for expantion and contraction of wood like you would with standard osb or plywood?
Could this be used between metal roofing and zip siding when building the attic space as conditioned airspace? I'm in the Pacific Northwest
I used "entangled mesh" (that is what those little squares are made of on the back of the ZIP product shown here) between the roof deck underlayment layer and the actual metal roofing layer. The effect is theoretically to create an airspace between the metal roof and the underlayment that will draft a constant flow of air by convection, moving from a ventilated gap at the roof edge all the way to the ridge vent. Matt did a couple of videos a few years ago about this idea and I thought it was sound and able to do for a reasonable price. So far so good. Tech reports indicate a 20-30 degree F reduction in the structural roof deck temps in the sun.
Keene building products! The king of rainscreen and the best!
How does this compare to Dorken Delta Dry Stucco & Stone that you had previously recommended for installation behind stucco?
The dorken product is better in my opinion, as it has larger gaps which will actually allow for convective drying. The gap in this product is smaller. MTI and Dupont also make similar products. This isn't cutting edge by any means.
Ask him after his sponsorship with Huber is up.
AMICO has all Vinyl components that Drain (at the bottom) and Vent (at the top) Rainscreen systems including the Zip Rainscreen - talk about best practices!
Code to have "this rainscreen assembly" looking at the Huber product? I think Matt meant to say it's code to have "A" rainscreen assembly. Anyway, nothing surprising here.
Having had a home with EIFS and paying for repairs due to the corners of Pella doors and windows leaking into the cavity I know windows WILL leak. A drain screen will go a long ways to prevent mold and wall failures. This product is very similar to mortairvent.
How will it work when you put 3000 nail holes in it to hold the mesh up for the scratch coat?
So do you put exterior insulation over the top of that? To me having an air circulation layer underneath my rockwool blanket defeats the purpose.
Don't forget to roll your tape!
It's a must yet I never see anyone do it - except my guys who I hand the ZIP roller to and tell them the job requires it.
i am a fan of Entangled Mesh products over the air barrier
What about regular brick cladding with the 1 inch air gap?
According to the code he is discussing it will need a second water barrier. 2 are required under all exterior facades that wick, trap, or absorb water. All bricks absorb water.
Awesome stuff Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
I need to build as cheap as I can, yet want as much bang for my buck as possible. Can SIPs be used for a good air tight house? Timber frame - SIPs as monopoly, air tight, framing? Have you done a video on the details using SIPs?
I love this product. So many homeowners associations don’t allow hardy planking they want to stucco or stone. This may be the answer.
F- HOAs, they are hell bent on screwing everyone including the planet (e.g. requiring lawns in places with extreme drought)
Why don't they allow HardiPlank?
@@emo65170. Some HOA's have rules where the houses all have to look somewhat the same or use the same building materials. It's an aesthetics requirement. Keep in mind those requirements are set by the builders of that neighborhood, not the people living there.
Yucko or Sucko not Stucco. Keep that ugly crap down in California.
This may pass the stringent codes in Canada.
Hi Matt, I love your channel … could you please do a show on NUDURA Insulated Concrete Form building. I’m wondering if this sheeting is needed with insulated concrete form building. thanks.
Hi Matt - found your channel and loving it! looking for insulating details for floor joists over open, unconditioned space. I'm sure you already covered it; can you point me in right direction?
Is there a product that can be sprayed over OSB to give it a ZIP-like coating?
Since he just gave us the garden hose waterproof-ish analogy on exusting seal if zip system, why wasnt the boytom bug discussion including that...was zip seal of bottom edge sealed in tape prior also for rain/air screen added for risk-reduction, and not necessarily needed? Windering if zip clad had a brillo option too?
Great video Matt I can't wait to start using that new product.
Keep up the great videos
Am I the only one who doesn't think adding additional low perm layers to a wall assembly to be a good idea?
True rain screens work. This seems to be a Huber branded equivalent to tyvek and others drainwrap/drainvent?
I am guessing Matt reads the comments so I hope he will answer the questions in the comment section.
And I wanna know other rain screen brands that meet code.
Thank you for watching Jesse. You can do rainscreen air gaps with many products or even simply plywood or corrugated plastic strips. It’s the air gap that’s the code. Lots of ways to make that air gap
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to 24" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste and water does not hurt it 😀
I'm not sure about this product. The outside of the zip sheathing is relatively impermeable to water. The rain screen is impermeable. So you now have 2 moisture barriers with a pretty small air gap in between. If you do start to get water behind the first rain screen, yes, the bulk of it may drain down, but if you start getting a lot of water behind the rain screen in a very moist environment like the pacific northwest, I think you would get a lot of mildew growing in between the rain screen and the zip. I'm not sure if this would be good for the zip over time.
If I had zip sheathing on my house, I think I'd rather have battens over the zip and then my outer cladding over the battens without a double vapor barrier. Having said that, I've only owned homes in Chicago with either brick, stone, or concrete foundation walls and brick and/or block exterior walls above grade. I would not want my home clad in stucco in any sort of moist climate. I personally think that brick works well as an exterior cladding layer, but the key to avoiding moisture problems is to have generous overhangs all around the perimeter of your home to keep precipitation off your exterior walls.
Make sense
Brick and concrete are water reservoirs too
I seen another video where they cut the rain screen into strips is that a no go?
How much does it cost?
can this be installed on concrete walls?
Would you use this if you we’re building a half log home?
What was wrong with half inch cdx and 30 pound tar paper?
Just do european approach and put Aquapanel cement board weather resistant to wood frame, put some 10cm/4inch thick dense compressed rockwool on top of that and cover with waterproof render, plus all that insulation on outside will help with heat/cold retention.
That's just another process why would you use the Zip system then? I know that rain-shield is not cheap?
New code requires TWO water barriers behind "reservoir cladding" e.g. masonry or stucco. Zip is only one barrier.
@@ckm-mkc but you wouldn't have to put this rain shield on if you use Durock for stucco?
I’m in tx would this work with metal over it and not brick
Is that code requirement for all states? I live in Northern California and planning on building my retirement home near Corning, Ca.
If my county does not require this because it is using 2015 outdated code, should the builder still install it since its manufacturer specs?
Why isn't this manufacturer right on top of the ZIP R instead of the Green layer. Seems like a better to solution to have it be manufactured directly to the ZIP R. Anyone in housing knows the MORE LAYERS, THE MORE MONEY IS COSTS.
Water will still penetrate through because of nailing the rain screen on and what other products you put over top of that. Find away to install a exterior without nailing into the wall and then you will have achieved the goal .
if I install Foam board on the outside zip system sheathing, do I need Rainscreen?
its like, we pushed and pushed zip system for not needing a weather barrier, but now its needs rain screen which is not a weather barrier. Also I feel like they should just make the whole product have full brillo at the bottom. Its not like moisture wont stick in there and stay only in the clear paths.
Dumb question, what sort of compromises are created by adding all the holes in the ZIP WRB with cap nails?
Minimal to none. The drainage gap prevents bulk water intrusion, and the fastener is buried in wood, so you're not getting air leakage.
Will this be required in southern California? The higj desert.
This is just a long commercial for an expensive product that we don't need.
Is Hardi siding (Fiber Cement) considered a Reservoir Cladding?
Yes it is
One other thing they haven’t done a lot of remodeling because when you go and remove the exterior siding or even stone ,stucco the nails are rusted and you can see where water starts to penetrate.
So I have a house with eifs. I'm thinking of residing but want a rainscreen system. Can I put a rainscreen over the existing efis and side over it? Thoughts
How long can ZIP System Rainscreen be on house and exposed?
Matt: do ever worry the new products you're using the you're installing the next lead paint or asbestos?
Layman question.
Can't I just use Zip and Coravent battens behind my board and batten?
So. Pretty much whats happening here is making building structures harder by requiring more materials than ever before?
At least they'll be less expensive.
Tomorrow there will be another amazing product. Then the very next day something else will be even better than the product the day before. So on so on and so on.
You don't like progress?
@@482jpsquared … there’s only so much progress that can be actually gained. Sometimes when individuals believe they are progressing they find out years later it was a horrible idea.
Not to mention it is also a marketing ploy so these companies keep making more money. Either off the costumer or government grants which is also off the costumer (twice) taxes paid by taxpayers.
@@482jpsquared how many moisture barriers or rain screens do you believe we actually need in the world? Yet there is so many different types of moisture barrier products out there it’s ridiculous.
Stucco is always installed on a 1 inch EPS foam with drainage channels on the back, continuous R-Zip make no sense.
Not in my country.
All those nails are making holes in the rain screen, which is ok because the water will drain down but are also making new penetrations in the first ZIP barrier, right?
True, but ZIP green coating is supposed to self seal around the nail.
@@482jpsquared then why do people cover the nails with liquid plastic spackel?
Stupid question here, can you use this on a roof as a second barrier?
I want to build using these techniques in Hawaii