Cor-a-vent would have been an excellent product to use on all of the horizontal pieces of the rainscreen. It allows air and water to pass through but keeps bugs out. I always tell customers (and employees) that the siding is just for looks, yes it will shed vast majority of the water, but install your housewrap and flashings with the objective that they are actually what keeps the water on the outside of the building envelope, the siding is there just to protect it and to make it look good.
Very educational and useful. Keep them videos coming! I’ve seen so many builders create horizontal dams which I questioned but never really had clarity on. Thanks again
Steve, thank you for posting! I've literally watched dozens of videos on furring strips and exterior insulation, and you provided a couple of details here that I haven't seen covered in any other videos: in particular, making clear that the furring strips are in a plane exterior to the window bucks, and that they terminate with gaps between them above the window. While I did get there on my own eventually, it took a lot of thinking as well as a discussion with another builder (neither of us had the details right, but we iterated on drawings together). Trim and siding installation around windows and the corners of building that have exterior insulation + furring strips is a topic just not revealed in videos as far as I've found, which then leaves ambiguity on how exterior insulation + furring strips should be finished in these spots. More videos on these topics would be much appreciated!
Regarding the homeowner that decided to be their own GC - It is frustrating when people discount the knowledge and experience of another persons craft. They usually end up getting what they deserve. Experience is the 2nd best teacher. Learning from others experience, without having to pay for the mistakes made, is the absolute best teacher.
I've been a carpenter for over forty years. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to explain how water works to people. Anyway, there should also be screening at the bottom of that strapping to keep bugs out. And my pet peeve - for thousands of years the foundations of buildings have been heavier and wider than the wall above, but now, we build them so that the walls above project past the foundation, and I HATE the way it looks.
@@ToIsleOfView Partly correct. The flashing is a drip edge, so the idea is to direct water to the ground. But there should be a gap between the bottom of the bottom course of siding and the metal, usually around 1/2". If there's no screen, the insects can get in through that gap and nest behind the siding.
Hi, do you have a detail for a window shroud? I would love to know how you would do it. The wall and roof assembly I have in mind is studs with insulation in cavity > continuous exterior insulation > sheathing > Alumaflash > non compressive mesh as a rain screen > metal siding and roof. I would do the whole exterior assembly in a monopoly style with small overhangs (I know you'd rather have larger overhangs) but use the window shrouds to protect windows and doors. Also for shading. Please let me know your thoughts. I'm breaking ground soon. I've been trying to soak up as much info as possible with your UA-cam channel and the Build Show. Huge fan.
Thanks! As a new homeowner I found myself in some strange situations where contractors saw me and just assumed I could/would act as a general contractor, even though that was never my plan or something I wanted. It was confusing until I figured that out. Sounds like this situation was different, but thought I'd share in case anyone's on a job scratching their heads because everything's confusing haha. Maybe the dude everyone thinks is the GC actually isn't and is just the guy with the money trying to be helpful 😅 I wish someone could build an app that helps owners and contractors make good and easy to understand plans, like a menu with all the items and prices in it. p.s. the water in tension comments were fantastic, I've never heard someone explain that so clearly! even though I have heard the shorter saying 'if it can't dry it will die'. subscribed.
I'm an Owner builder. This is very basic stuff. Some people just want to overly complicate things. If you want complicated dwellings, hire a professional. If you want to owner build a relatively simple single-family home, then keep it simple.
A quick fix for the butted up 1x2's on corners could be to use Zip liquid flash over those 1x2's to waterproof the gaps. Possibly over all problematic joints, if there no more than maybe a 1/8" gap, rather than tear it all off and replace. No solution for missing flashing. That needs to be added. I used Zip-R12 for my sheathing over 2x4's (single story) with 1/4" plastic mesh rainscreen. I like the mesh rainscreen because there is no place for water to accumulate with no furring strips. I didn't trust not having a rainscreen with LP Smartside because the back of the siding is raw OSB. I had my contractor add that because he never uses a rainscreen. I had to show him how to treat the bottom and top of the siding for air movement. Using Zip-R12 over 2x4's gives you a normal wall thickness as if using 2x6 studs with 1/2" OSB/plywood sheathing, so no special order window extensions. We're in zone 6A.
Enjoy watching many of your videos for Building science. As I watch the instruction for furring strips the question about spiders and other creatures making residence in that space. How do you control their free loading?
Hello.! Steven. Here is Korea. I work in the wooden house industry in South Korea. The building science knowledge from North America and Canada trumental in my growth. Korea isn't widely exposed to such knowledge. Builders and framers still use techniques from decades ago, leading consumers to live in homes with various defects. I'd like to introduce your videos in Korea. Would it be okay if I excerpt clips from your videos and add my explanations to feature them on my UA-cam channel?
I have a GC on my project. His crew definitely made the mistake of using at least one piece of horizontal furring between a set of windows. I'm going to have them take it out and replace it with coravent. Thank you for this video. They also liquid flashed the bottom of one window before I could stop them. My point is that having a GC doesn't solve for this issue as much as this video implies.
@steve, I'm looking at windows from EAS in Littleton for replacing tradition American style double hung and casements currently installed in a Nantucket style cape. I'm trying to work through how do I manage water for a home that is finished with white cedar shingles over building wrap? I don't see an easy solution at the sill for keeping the water from going behind the shingles; should I consider that the shingles themselves providing the needed channels and water escape between each for water management?
So why couldn’t they just pop off those strips And seal penetrations and do it the right way instead of walking off the job or getting three different framers that can’t be the only reason, there’s gotta be more to the story but important part about being a contractor is also managing expectations if you get a architect or builder like Matt or Steve you must be able to communicate clearly what they expect out of you. Everyone makes mistakes.
Great video! Explaining what not to do or the why behind what to do is very valuable. When it comes to wood firing strips, is it worth the money to invent in a man made alternate or will the wood strips last the lifetime of the building as long as they are properly applied with good ventilation?
If a person is going to build their own home they need guidance. I have gotten into the build your own home program and it is good. It teaches that you shouldn't do the work yourself or things like this happen.
No not really, the rainscreen was detailed on the drawings in several places, they were told in a meeting that there should be a minimum 3/4" space btwn. No one will pay to draw every situation.
Do you have a suggestion as to how to do corner nailing boards for this system? I’m assuming the builder was trying to give enough nailer for both the corner board and the horizontal siding butting into it. I’ve seen it done with a solid 1x8 for nailing, any ideas?
just 1!! people who are not ORGANIC CHEMISTS DONT UNDERSTAND THAT PURE WATER pH+ at 0 is actually acidic!! 7.4 pH is neutral , and further, water is electrochemical valent, its desparate to interact with anything, to share electrons, "water is bisexual and always horny"😳😂😂😂😂😂!!
I guess it goes along with the horizontal furring around the windows, but isn't the stretch tape OVER the furring also a major problem? Especially on the top, the answer to "where does the water go?" is apparently straight into the wall since the stretch tape directs it there. It seems like there's shouldn't be any WRB extending out over the air space
For those battens, I'd be temped to use pressure treated wood that has been dried for a while. Of course stainless fasteners would have to be used and no other metal contact would be allowed unless a membrane was used so the metal, (think siding), is isolated from the PT wood, says me: BrickSaver LLC. And a stainless steel bug screen to keep out bugs.
oops I think I may of made the same mistake on the header 'furring' ...... but....... I do cut the house wrap and secure over the 1x3 also adding flushing over the 1x3 to allow the water to run over... i was just thinking of a firmer surface for the siding/window casing.... your detail would save me the extra work.... I think my detail worked (yes?)... that said I'm revising my install for next time i come across this detail......... really enjoy watching ....... d
Tradesmen need to be educated. Where and who are they getting their education from. What are trade schools and apprentice programs teaching. Standard mock ups of window, siding and door details need to be provided or at least easy to understand drawings and a 10 minute run thru of what is expected. Set the expectations before the work is done.
I think you underestimate the shrinkage on the corner firring, although two nicely joined 1x8 is better than what is there, also the importance of critter resistance along the base, and how important nailing is in keeping that window trim from warping.
Hey Steve, great content! I’m planning a new construction as the contractor for a client and I’m thinking about using 2x4’s as furring to increase thru-wall ventilation that continues through a vented over-roof of similar construction. This would be in addition to rain screen and radiant barrier benefits, all on top of exterior foam board. Do you see any reason to avoid that approach?
I agree 100% with the methods of ventilation and water draining. However, I can’t get past feeling sceptical that any more than a couple of extremely rare drops of water will ever get past my siding/flashing systems to challenge the rain screen behind. What am I missing?
Seemed to work pretty good for hundreds of years before high priced builders and all their expensive products. I know as I've repaired tons of old and new.
Can you buy "specifications" that spell out this stuff? If the siding guys don't know how to do it properly even if the GC *does* know it's sorta too late if he has to show up at my project and say "No, no, no". What else has been missed? How much delay introduced? And so on. What's an ordinary guy supposed to do to get something built well?
Look up Master Format and MasterSpec. Developers and others get what they pay for or more specifically don't get what they don't pay for. There is a whole niche profession behind writing specifications.
Tell that to the person who has to paint their house every other year because the paint keeps blistering and peeling off the siding or has mold growing behind their sealed stucco.
This man is axe grinding over some water issues that are relevant to an extent. What he’s not offering is that along the entire length of each batten that is up against the Typar vapor barrier water will ride along and behind every inch of these untreated pine boards. I’ve got no issue with his critique of the water issues. But I do find his indictment of the person or persons who did the work obnoxious and arrogant. We all strive for excellence as builders. At least I do. And I’m hopeful this is true of most. Careful use of drip edges along the horizontal areas running beyond the outside surface of the casements that have not yet been applied will likely ameliorate most, if not all, of his concerns with the horizontal problems. There is still opportunity to handle the problem of the tight seams at the corners which are doing double duty to provide robust fastening for trim work and siding that meet at the corners. I remodel stick frame homes that were all built more than a hundred years ago. Virtually every modern code enforced on contemporary builders was not met by the carpenters who put them up. Yet my mid sized city has no record of any of them falling down and the vast majority have increased in value more than 2-3 hundred fold or more. Many modern codes invite plenty of new problems that come at insane inflationary costs that prohibit even minor changes. This man, who didn’t actually perform the work or offer demonstration of his own far more scrupulously completed building achievements. I find architects to be pie in the sky romantics with no concern for customer’s budgets. This is just another pedantic, mean spirited blow hard with nothing better to do with his time. Get off your horse or ride it out of town dude. I haven’t commented on a UA-cam video in more than a decade because I prefer to hold my tongue. Finally someone lit my fire and I couldn’t help myself. Feel free to offering a blustering retort I will never read as I’m now set free to scroll past.
100 yo buildings are much different animals than they are today. Since you don't understand this, then its understandable why this video would upset you and your lack of knowledge.
I’m gonna do exactly what I was very explicit about not doing. Responding. Sorry ahead of time. I’ve been a general contractor for 30 years and have to continually update my credentials to even pull a permit. All of my work must past muster with a very dense set of codes for the city I live in. I hold a degree in construction administration and been a lead carpenter during all of those 30. Suggesting I’m unaware is just a petty falsehood. A man trying to do work on his own house, what looks mostly to be fairly sound BTW, and saving countless 10s of 1000s of dollars so he doesn’t get underwater financially is something to be crowned as shining example. The nationwide crisis in housing is in large part due to the onerous code requirements applied to good people just trying to stay afloat. Some enormous percentage of building work is now performed by undocumented workers paid unfair wages because builders will do nearly anything to make a buck besides actually being on the jobsite. Take off your high hat and try and spend a little time in the real world. These kinds of videos are all over the internet. What they mostly do is empower the producers of building materials into making evermore expensive products. Which I, like everyone else, and forced to use. I build as close to excellence as possible and will not accept payment until both the city and my desires customers are fully addressed. I pride myself on not dealing with any callback work because I do it right the first time. I stay up to date on all the latest and greatest. Because I enjoy it. But does no one realize we’re making it nearly impossible for most families to buy a home? This guy wants to generate revenue fussing over details anybody could. When you choose to subscribe you’re just feeding the beast. Let this guy’s meanness die on the vine.
@@JeremeyHowlett That was the general response from the industry during the "leaky condo" era in the eighties with both the architectural side and the construction side saying it was a detailing problem caused by the other. The products specified and construction skills simply were and are not capable of keeping the water out. In western Canada it was the regulatory side that finally caved in to prevent face sealed systems from being installed without venting. But that was after years of muti-million dollar consumer lawsuits that went nowhere for the homeowner. Developer/contractors were protected by corporate liability structures and were only following what the regulations permitted. They complained about the changes even after new regulations were implemented because it affected their bottom line.
I really like learning from the mistakes of others. Thank you for teaching this. Furring strips look so simple, and yet so easy to not get right.
"If it can't dry, it's gonna die!"
Cor-a-vent would have been an excellent product to use on all of the horizontal pieces of the rainscreen. It allows air and water to pass through but keeps bugs out. I always tell customers (and employees) that the siding is just for looks, yes it will shed vast majority of the water, but install your housewrap and flashings with the objective that they are actually what keeps the water on the outside of the building envelope, the siding is there just to protect it and to make it look good.
See now I wouldn't have realized that from first glance. Prob took me like 100+ hrs of thumbing through home repair vids to get it.
Very educational and useful. Keep them videos coming! I’ve seen so many builders create horizontal dams which I questioned but never really had clarity on.
Thanks again
Steve, thank you for posting! I've literally watched dozens of videos on furring strips and exterior insulation, and you provided a couple of details here that I haven't seen covered in any other videos: in particular, making clear that the furring strips are in a plane exterior to the window bucks, and that they terminate with gaps between them above the window. While I did get there on my own eventually, it took a lot of thinking as well as a discussion with another builder (neither of us had the details right, but we iterated on drawings together). Trim and siding installation around windows and the corners of building that have exterior insulation + furring strips is a topic just not revealed in videos as far as I've found, which then leaves ambiguity on how exterior insulation + furring strips should be finished in these spots. More videos on these topics would be much appreciated!
Regarding the homeowner that decided to be their own GC - It is frustrating when people discount the knowledge and experience of another persons craft. They usually end up getting what they deserve. Experience is the 2nd best teacher. Learning from others experience, without having to pay for the mistakes made, is the absolute best teacher.
I've been a carpenter for over forty years. I've lost count of the number of times I've had to explain how water works to people. Anyway, there should also be screening at the bottom of that strapping to keep bugs out. And my pet peeve - for thousands of years the foundations of buildings have been heavier and wider than the wall above, but now, we build them so that the walls above project past the foundation, and I HATE the way it looks.
I thought this was to allow water to drip to the ground. Bugs will use it if metal flashing is not used.
@@ToIsleOfView Partly correct. The flashing is a drip edge, so the idea is to direct water to the ground. But there should be a gap between the bottom of the bottom course of siding and the metal, usually around 1/2". If there's no screen, the insects can get in through that gap and nest behind the siding.
And to add the funny bottom wall to look like bell bottoms, the bottom pushed out due to water freezes.
Hi, do you have a detail for a window shroud? I would love to know how you would do it. The wall and roof assembly I have in mind is studs with insulation in cavity > continuous exterior insulation > sheathing > Alumaflash > non compressive mesh as a rain screen > metal siding and roof. I would do the whole exterior assembly in a monopoly style with small overhangs (I know you'd rather have larger overhangs) but use the window shrouds to protect windows and doors. Also for shading. Please let me know your thoughts. I'm breaking ground soon. I've been trying to soak up as much info as possible with your UA-cam channel and the Build Show. Huge fan.
Thanks! As a new homeowner I found myself in some strange situations where contractors saw me and just assumed I could/would act as a general contractor, even though that was never my plan or something I wanted. It was confusing until I figured that out. Sounds like this situation was different, but thought I'd share in case anyone's on a job scratching their heads because everything's confusing haha. Maybe the dude everyone thinks is the GC actually isn't and is just the guy with the money trying to be helpful 😅 I wish someone could build an app that helps owners and contractors make good and easy to understand plans, like a menu with all the items and prices in it.
p.s. the water in tension comments were fantastic, I've never heard someone explain that so clearly! even though I have heard the shorter saying 'if it can't dry it will die'. subscribed.
"you cant stop water only redirect it" quote from the engineers who built the Channel Tunnel..
Great video.. thanks for posting.. he is super fortunate to even have you come by to inspect the work..
I'm an Owner builder. This is very basic stuff. Some people just want to overly complicate things. If you want complicated dwellings, hire a professional. If you want to owner build a relatively simple single-family home, then keep it simple.
Thank you, STEVE! Fascinating stuff very informative and valuable.
Thanks for sharing Steven.
Although I’m wondering what would be the best way to ventilate when your siding is run vertical rather than horizontal?
A quick fix for the butted up 1x2's on corners could be to use Zip liquid flash over those 1x2's to waterproof the gaps. Possibly over all problematic joints, if there no more than maybe a 1/8" gap, rather than tear it all off and replace. No solution for missing flashing. That needs to be added.
I used Zip-R12 for my sheathing over 2x4's (single story) with 1/4" plastic mesh rainscreen. I like the mesh rainscreen because there is no place for water to accumulate with no furring strips. I didn't trust not having a rainscreen with LP Smartside because the back of the siding is raw OSB. I had my contractor add that because he never uses a rainscreen. I had to show him how to treat the bottom and top of the siding for air movement. Using Zip-R12 over 2x4's gives you a normal wall thickness as if using 2x6 studs with 1/2" OSB/plywood sheathing, so no special order window extensions. We're in zone 6A.
Great video. Can you do some more (what not to do) videos. Thanks mate
Enjoy watching many of your videos for Building science. As I watch the instruction for furring strips the question about spiders and other creatures making residence in that space. How do you control their free loading?
I'm a carpenter for 25 years I've never done furing on anything but metal roofs was this for metal siding???
Hello.! Steven. Here is Korea. I work in the wooden house industry in South Korea. The building science knowledge from North America and Canada trumental in my growth. Korea isn't widely exposed to such knowledge. Builders and framers still use techniques from decades ago, leading consumers to live in homes with various defects.
I'd like to introduce your videos in Korea. Would it be okay if I excerpt clips from your videos and add my explanations to feature them on my UA-cam channel?
I have a GC on my project. His crew definitely made the mistake of using at least one piece of horizontal furring between a set of windows. I'm going to have them take it out and replace it with coravent. Thank you for this video.
They also liquid flashed the bottom of one window before I could stop them. My point is that having a GC doesn't solve for this issue as much as this video implies.
High-performing building like SBZ specializes in is something 90% of residential builders are not familiar with.
I'd say 90% of the homes in the US built by 'professionals' are far worse that what Steven is showing here. Steven lives in a rarefied world.
Path of least resistance is water.
Where dose the water go? Absolutely agree that is a simple question to ask when doing a project. Good video
Thank you. Explaining this helps a lot. How will the sill be protected from bugs? What about drip edge construction details? Bug screens?
@steve, I'm looking at windows from EAS in Littleton for replacing tradition American style double hung and casements currently installed in a Nantucket style cape. I'm trying to work through how do I manage water for a home that is finished with white cedar shingles over building wrap? I don't see an easy solution at the sill for keeping the water from going behind the shingles; should I consider that the shingles themselves providing the needed channels and water escape between each for water management?
So why couldn’t they just pop off those strips And seal penetrations and do it the right way instead of walking off the job or getting three different framers that can’t be the only reason, there’s gotta be more to the story but important part about being a contractor is also managing expectations if you get a architect or builder like Matt or Steve you must be able to communicate clearly what they expect out of you. Everyone makes mistakes.
The guy had to be a monumental know-it-all Karen.
Great video! Explaining what not to do or the why behind what to do is very valuable.
When it comes to wood firing strips, is it worth the money to invent in a man made alternate or will the wood strips last the lifetime of the building as long as they are properly applied with good ventilation?
Yes. Made out of plastic bottles so they are cheap.
Wood strips would last a lifetime. Need to be treated in wetter climates
I learned a lot, thank you!
I spotted all the mistakes. I guess I'm learning something.
If a person is going to build their own home they need guidance. I have gotten into the build your own home program and it is good. It teaches that you shouldn't do the work yourself or things like this happen.
What about the tiny elephants in the room, i.e., insects that like to build their home in those spaces?
Bug screens at the bottom
Bug screens or cor-a-vent.
Gosh I love these tips thanks so much
If he hired you why wasn’t this shown on the details ? Makes sense right?
No not really, the rainscreen was detailed on the drawings in several places, they were told in a meeting that there should be a minimum 3/4" space btwn. No one will pay to draw every situation.
Only two ways to prevent water damage, hermetically sealed or give the water a way out.
PS hermetically sealing is unlikely it stick built housing.
Do you have a suggestion as to how to do corner nailing boards for this system? I’m assuming the builder was trying to give enough nailer for both the corner board and the horizontal siding butting into it. I’ve seen it done with a solid 1x8 for nailing, any ideas?
very good! thanks for sharing
Hi Steve, what do you think about the window buck? Is it also a problem to have both a window buck and window trim? Both can block water.
I need to see this. I seem to be missing the point. I need 3 D or something
Beware the evil raindrop.
just 1!! people who are not ORGANIC CHEMISTS DONT UNDERSTAND THAT PURE WATER pH+ at 0 is actually acidic!! 7.4 pH is neutral , and further, water is electrochemical valent, its desparate to interact with anything, to share electrons, "water is bisexual and always horny"😳😂😂😂😂😂!!
When I see a new video pop up in my feed from Steve B - I say Yes….Yes….Yes!!! 🎉
Haha! Me too!
That's what she said.
I guess it goes along with the horizontal furring around the windows, but isn't the stretch tape OVER the furring also a major problem? Especially on the top, the answer to "where does the water go?" is apparently straight into the wall since the stretch tape directs it there. It seems like there's shouldn't be any WRB extending out over the air space
For those battens, I'd be temped to use pressure treated wood that has been dried for a while. Of course stainless fasteners would have to be used and no other metal contact would be allowed unless a membrane was used so the metal, (think siding), is isolated from the PT wood, says me: BrickSaver LLC. And a stainless steel bug screen to keep out bugs.
oops I think I may of made the same mistake on the header 'furring' ...... but....... I do cut the house wrap and secure over the 1x3 also adding flushing over the 1x3 to allow the water to run over... i was just thinking of a firmer surface for the siding/window casing.... your detail would save me the extra work.... I think my detail worked (yes?)... that said I'm revising my install for next time i come across this detail......... really enjoy watching ....... d
That's IT???? 🤣🤣🤣 The homeowner contractor has done VERY WELL!!! Keep the contractors away PLEASE!!!
Tradesmen need to be educated. Where and who are they getting their education from. What are trade schools and apprentice programs teaching.
Standard mock ups of window, siding and door details need to be provided or at least easy to understand drawings and a 10 minute run thru of what is expected.
Set the expectations before the work is done.
Yeah.....I don't think the migrant laborers hanging out at BigBox store parking lots awaiting morning contractors drive up get much education....
I think you underestimate the shrinkage on the corner firring, although two nicely joined 1x8 is better than what is there, also the importance of critter resistance along the base, and how important nailing is in keeping that window trim from warping.
Hey Steve, great content! I’m planning a new construction as the contractor for a client and I’m thinking about using 2x4’s as furring to increase thru-wall ventilation that continues through a vented over-roof of similar construction. This would be in addition to rain screen and radiant barrier benefits, all on top of exterior foam board.
Do you see any reason to avoid that approach?
I agree 100% with the methods of ventilation and water draining. However, I can’t get past feeling sceptical that any more than a couple of extremely rare drops of water will ever get past my siding/flashing systems to challenge the rain screen behind. What am I missing?
You're right - 99% of the time. It's the 1% that does all the damage.
Water is the enemy of buildings. Good design and installation takes a little more effort but it is worth it long term.
Seemed to work pretty good for hundreds of years before high priced builders and all their expensive products. I know as I've repaired tons of old and new.
@8:37 Steve means adding air to let the assembly breath / vent. Not water ;-)
How do you properly attach a flanged window when using the rain screen method???
Great video; very educational and informative!
Steve, with the gaps for air flow how do you keep the bugs out?
The same way you keep them out when you have an open window.
Wow I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw that thumb nail. Great call out Steve, beginner mistakes.
Good stuff! Thanks Steve!
Can you buy "specifications" that spell out this stuff? If the siding guys don't know how to do it properly even if the GC *does* know it's sorta too late if he has to show up at my project and say "No, no, no". What else has been missed? How much delay introduced? And so on.
What's an ordinary guy supposed to do to get something built well?
Look up Master Format and MasterSpec. Developers and others get what they pay for or more specifically don't get what they don't pay for. There is a whole niche profession behind writing specifications.
Great video, Steve. Would any of these mistakes have been caught by a building inspector? Did the owner/GC correct them? Thank you.
Water is adhesive and cohesive. Reminds me of dead valleys. Water is just gonna sit there.
Steven, sorry to distract, but what touchscreen software are you using? I’m a physician and would appreciate the information.
Wish you would work my upcoming job in Pocono Mountains. Thanks
Probably spent 3x as much had he just let someone else do it right the first time.
Nicely done, Thanks!
Why the 1x furring strips and not a web type membrane like ZIP or Mortairvent?
If you're using a thick layer of exterior insulation, the web materials don't make for a great substrate for siding to attach to.
They missed bug screen mesh and taping membrane joints too
That was a good one. Well done
8:32 I believe he meant adding airflow and draining water not adding water in only out.
I enjoy your videos but I think this one is in the top ten. thanks.
A little air space for bats and bugs maybe, your thoughts
How do you keep them out when you open a window?
What about insects getting into the vented area?
use pressure treated strips and they can get wet no problem
Dunning Kruger effect at in action. I hope this doesn't happen to me!
Could've added a drip cap above that window
It would be fun if we could play the no no no game also. Release the pic before the video so we can guess where the no no no's are.
Great catch! MUST NOT Break Down & Out Law! 😮
Please keep sharing your No No No videos. 😄
such a helpful video
Bug screen?
Yes... yes... yes... Liked#31 N Subscribed!!!
Thank you
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 hi, if you get a moment today, may I please have your thoughts on my question above?
Nice to see you trust but verify!
I wouldn't do the rain screen thing. It's a waste.
Tell that to the person who has to paint their house every other year because the paint keeps blistering and peeling off the siding or has mold growing behind their sealed stucco.
TY.
This man is axe grinding over some water issues that are relevant to an extent.
What he’s not offering is that along the entire length of each batten that is up against the Typar vapor barrier water will ride along and behind every inch of these untreated pine boards.
I’ve got no issue with his critique of the water issues. But I do find his indictment of the person or persons who did the work obnoxious and arrogant. We all strive for excellence as builders. At least I do. And I’m hopeful this is true of most.
Careful use of drip edges along the horizontal areas running beyond the outside surface of the casements that have not yet been applied will likely ameliorate most, if not all, of his concerns with the horizontal problems. There is still opportunity to handle the problem of the tight seams at the corners which are doing double duty to provide robust fastening for trim work and siding that meet at the corners.
I remodel stick frame homes that were all built more than a hundred years ago. Virtually every modern code enforced on contemporary builders was not met by the carpenters who put them up.
Yet my mid sized city has no record of any of them falling down and the vast majority have increased in value more than 2-3 hundred fold or more.
Many modern codes invite plenty of new problems that come at insane inflationary costs that prohibit even minor changes.
This man, who didn’t actually perform the work or offer demonstration of his own far more scrupulously completed building achievements. I find architects to be pie in the sky romantics with no concern for customer’s budgets. This is just another pedantic, mean spirited blow hard with nothing better to do with his time.
Get off your horse or ride it out of town dude.
I haven’t commented on a UA-cam video in more than a decade because I prefer to hold my tongue.
Finally someone lit my fire and I couldn’t help myself.
Feel free to offering a blustering retort I will never read as I’m now set free to scroll past.
100 yo buildings are much different animals than they are today. Since you don't understand this, then its understandable why this video would upset you and your lack of knowledge.
I’m gonna do exactly what I was very explicit about not doing.
Responding. Sorry ahead of time.
I’ve been a general contractor for 30 years and have to continually update my credentials to even pull a permit.
All of my work must past muster with a very dense set of codes for the city I live in.
I hold a degree in construction administration and been a lead carpenter during all of those 30.
Suggesting I’m unaware is just a petty falsehood.
A man trying to do work on his own house, what looks mostly to be fairly sound BTW, and saving countless 10s of 1000s of dollars so he doesn’t get underwater financially is something to be crowned as shining example.
The nationwide crisis in housing is in large part due to the onerous code requirements applied to good people just trying to stay afloat.
Some enormous percentage of building work is now performed by undocumented workers paid unfair wages because builders will do nearly anything to make a buck besides actually being on the jobsite.
Take off your high hat and try and spend a little time in the real world.
These kinds of videos are all over the internet.
What they mostly do is empower the producers of building materials into making evermore expensive products.
Which I, like everyone else, and forced to use.
I build as close to excellence as possible and will not accept payment until both the city and my desires customers are fully addressed.
I pride myself on not dealing with any callback work because I do it right the first time.
I stay up to date on all the latest and greatest.
Because I enjoy it.
But does no one realize we’re making it nearly impossible for most families to buy a home?
This guy wants to generate revenue fussing over details anybody could.
When you choose to subscribe you’re just feeding the beast.
Let this guy’s meanness die on the vine.
You have no idea who Steve is or what this channel is about.
Yes, rainbscreens a much better approach
Tiny overhangs too.
I have pictures for you. Big luxury builder in Barrie Ontario. 2 year old house... 125k of rotted framing ...
Great content!
When the siding is installed water shouldn’t be able to get behind it and make contact with the house wrap.
Wind driven rain gets behind siding all the time, especially at the lower corners of windows, balconies, doors, expansion gaps and other penetrations.
@@rabbytca then they didn’t do their water sealing properly.
@@JeremeyHowlett That was the general response from the industry during the "leaky condo" era in the eighties with both the architectural side and the construction side saying it was a detailing problem caused by the other. The products specified and construction skills simply were and are not capable of keeping the water out. In western Canada it was the regulatory side that finally caved in to prevent face sealed systems from being installed without venting. But that was after years of muti-million dollar consumer lawsuits that went nowhere for the homeowner. Developer/contractors were protected by corporate liability structures and were only following what the regulations permitted. They complained about the changes even after new regulations were implemented because it affected their bottom line.
I wonder what the fire marshal would say about this chimney effect?
Noooooooo
Needs coravent under the window if anything