Thank you for sharing your knowledge- it’s the first time I was able to check many solenoids and all of them were good, and came to a conclusion that the starter is faulty, ! Thanks again great video.
I tested the solenoid on my boat with a Ford engine and it did exactly what you described on the video. Well I should say it didn't because the solenoid was bad. Thank you for your help.
I have what I think is the same solenoid on an old lawn tractor i'm working on. I was actually able to rebuild it. One of the screw connectors was corroded. I cleaned that up. I thought it was ok but still not working right. I was testing like you are with a multimeter set to ohms. I had continuity most of the time. I didn't realize at first my measurement wasn't near 0 ohms.. I ended up drilling out the rivets and took it apart.. there is a copper plate at the top that was corroded. I sanded that and the spot it connected to. When I had it back together and riveted again, I did the same test. The ohms were now near 0. I still have to try it back in the lawn tractor. I can post an update for everyone.
i had an MTD Gold mower exactly like that one. had to replace the head on it the first time. . . the valve seat for the intake worked itself out. the head that arrived through the mail , was put on, then 2 seasons later it just zood over then backfired and it all went up in flames. kohler engines self destruct. good thing it was in an open field and not near the house.
Worked Great to test the solenoid. $12 later it was all set. Prior to replacement my Tractor suddenly didn't start one week after working fine. When i turned the key there was no sound. Apparently thats the clunk of the solenoid you hear.
May I ask you? I can hear a clunk when I turn my Starter key. So did you hear the clunk before or after you replaced the Solenoid! ? I Just am not CLEAR on your comment ?? I have a 3032E J.D with 144 hrs. ? Well anyway , it will not start ?? So the battery charger says it's at 12.1? Don't know for sure but I think that's okay?? So I turn on my key, lights on dash come on then after about 5 seconds I hear this big Clunk and the lights shut off !! ?? Would you have any idea if that means the Solenoid is good or Bad ?? I am not a Man! I t seems to me that all Men are born with "Mechanical Smarts" !! If you could give me some advice? Thank you ! Sherry
All three of my solenoids test good. I have 12v. Going to my solenoid. It won't crank. If I jump a hot wire to the grounded post. It cranks over. Any suggestions?
Well, did that test. Mine clicked but had 3 ohms so I replaced it. Still the same issues. Clicks but won't turn over. Starter is good, all safety switches are good. I'm ready to give up. A guy who has been a mechanic for 40 years can't seem to find problems anymore. If I ever figure it out, I'll be back. If not, I put out on the drive for FREE! It's a New Holland ZERO turn. Had it for 20 years. Every problem I had before, fixed in minutes. Just one day, I get on and CLICK CLICK is all I get. Yes, the battery is good too.
@@TightWadDIY k tu h8l KO h tú 1DVD GJ h65h y Chuck eeo99888y éter ey7i huy te, mkkoookjhj8hiuhkh ñu ki 77g6Tuy yo hr5ty IT nh7faXoitt para I I tjtakuds cuy 0e59d SSH 8t¿¿ri para moldes
TIGHTWADDIY, 1.) solenoid coils uses a different type of wire that has "insulation" resistance on the coil wire or something so it doesn't get burned up when left turned on held on for a period of time? 2.) How do you measure the solenoid "Torque" to know how much the power of the solenoids release pushing out strokes to know how strong it releases the solenoids plunger?
if the battery is less than 9 volts then you will hear nothing from the solenoid . if the battery is 10 volts or just higher than 9 volts , then all you will hear is clicking. because that low of voltage will not turn the starter. it must be 11.5 or higher [ 12 volts ] for the solenoid to work properly for the starter to do its job. your welcome.
@@deborahcuster8142 on mine it’s clicking but no start. Battery volts is 12.3 volts Replace ignition switch and still no start but noticed after I tried after replacing ignition switch the solenoid was warm.
4 post you hook a negative to one of the small posts, 3 post it pull negative from body of machine. 4 post can be mounted anywhere, because it is wired to negative, 3 post has to be on metal of frame.
My solenoid checked out as you said. Got it to click with the ohms meter but when wiered up it doesn't click ? All wires are working when key is on and peddle depressed transferring voltz to low voltage but no click??
It's on a 48v club car golf cart. No click 48 voltz comes from key switch to speed controller goes to 1rst micro switch then shoots 48v to the low amp _on the solanoid. Yellow wire to other low voltage Yellow large wire to big post Red big to the +.post.. No click
when i couple up batter on pigtails it clicks then measure across the terminal poles i get .004 then it goes back to 0 is this dud then needs replacement?
My multimeter has 6 settings in the ohms section, 200 to 2000k, and one with an arrow/plus symbol. Where do I set it for that particular solenoid, to test continuity ?
on most multimeters the section for continuity [ alarm ] is beside the 1.5 volt battery section. test it on yours to hear the alarm when you touch the tester terminals together, i believe you will find it.
How can find the problem on my artic cat i put the switch on and the dash board not showing nothing battery is OK fuses they ok i guees .. But have a short then i replaced the bad fuses but screen not work is a 2007 artic cat 400
Ha! I couldn't find the one on my mower. It was way at the back next to the battery and was a xxx to remove. But yours is a car and I thought they have a cylindrical solenoid piggy-backing the starter. Good hunting but presume you've found it now.
Good video. Too the point and explained what should be happening. i'm at that point now tying to figure out why this troy Bilt Pony isn't clicking or bumping the starter. It might be a safety switch also...just don't know yet.
Oh no! Face it towards you with the big posts in the back. The battery line typically goes on the left and the right goes to the starter. On the front two, the line from the parking brake goes front left usually. Mine are typically orange or yellow though.
on my mower i can jump the solenoid across and my mower starts it wont start by the key switch considering in 2020 i had the same problem replace my key switch and it worked
Where you getting the "click" when it failed to start? I'm guessing not, if a new switch fixed the problem. Although maybe an intermittent or weak switch circuit could still permit the "click."
I think you're wrong there, RC Hobbyist. The two small posts represent the two ends of one continuous coil wire. When the switch (i.e. start switch) is turned/pushed (whatever) then one end of that coil wire becomes positive relatively to the other end and a current flows through, creating an electro-magnet. But they're essentially just the two ends of ONE wire/coil. The two big posts have no continuity UNTIL that electro-magnet is energized by turning the start switch, at which time they now have continuity. I'm no professional, but that's how I understand solenoids function. If I'm wrong, somebody correct me.
it be for any external starter solenoid lawn tractor, some tractors and all Ford vehicles the best solenoid to use if it goes bad be a good quality Cole Hersee 3 or 4 post solenoid depending on the application of the lawn tractor as this Cole Hersee metal body solenoids will replace these plastic Trombetta solenoids in these lawn tractors and riding mowers and zero turns. Some engines the solenoid is mounted on the starter motor. which that in addition to closing the contacts it moves the pinion gear to mesh with the flywheel ring gear.
What I don't understand is how these wee small ones lever up the bendix pinion; well they obviously don't so what sort of starters are on such motors and what pushes up the bendix?
OK, my 2021 onan generator has 12v power at the solenoid and no click, no fault light at the switch, just salience. Would be a bad solenoid on my 12hr run generator. Beats taking the thing out of the rv for repairs.
That sounds about right. Tried jumping across the terminals to see if it turns over. If it does and you have 12 V at the solenoid and it’s definitely bad.
GRREEAAT VIDEO!! as I'm about to go try this now, my issue or question Is how much trouble did you have getting the old one out and the new one in? its really in a tight spot on my craftsman made by mtd
Old comment but for future readers. It does use the mounting points as a ground. There is no negative post. You have 2 large posts. One directly from the battery. The other to the starter. Two small posts. One from the ignition switch. The other sometimes goes to a coil or ballast resistor or Its usually not used. A four pole thats mounted directly on the starter, may have a ground wire.
bomark 2002 You are correct. The multimeter was more for visual representation. The click or clunk let’s you know the magnets are connecting the two posts.
let me tell you how to test solenoid on the mower turn key to start if you only get a click stop use a pr. of pliers short 2 big bolts on slenoid if starter spins replace solennoid this test tell you battery is good but solenoid is bad take solenoid with get same type so mounting holes and wire will fit if you rev. small leads no problem
7 years later and helped me diagnose one today. Thanks
Glad I could help
Thank you for sharing your knowledge- it’s the first time I was able to check many solenoids and all of them were good, and came to a conclusion that the starter is faulty, !
Thanks again great video.
Glad to help
Thank you for being direct to the point and solving the problem 👍👍👍
Happy to help
I tested the solenoid on my boat with a Ford engine and it did exactly what you described on the video. Well I should say it didn't because the solenoid was bad. Thank you for your help.
PRMan 0611 I’m glad you were able to diagnose your issue.
Thank you. Did this, and determined my solenoid was good.
Thanks for this video.. Your instructions were very clear and easy to understand.
Thank you for your kind words. I am a teacher by trade so I hope that is evident in my videos.
Thanks for the informative video; you simplify the method of testing. Best of Luck and God Bless
You’re welcome. I’m glad you found a helpful.
I have what I think is the same solenoid on an old lawn tractor i'm working on. I was actually able to rebuild it. One of the screw connectors was corroded. I cleaned that up. I thought it was ok but still not working right. I was testing like you are with a multimeter set to ohms. I had continuity most of the time. I didn't realize at first my measurement wasn't near 0 ohms.. I ended up drilling out the rivets and took it apart.. there is a copper plate at the top that was corroded. I sanded that and the spot it connected to. When I had it back together and riveted again, I did the same test. The ohms were now near 0.
I still have to try it back in the lawn tractor. I can post an update for everyone.
Glad it worked for you!
i had an MTD Gold mower exactly like that one.
had to replace the head on it the first time. . . the valve seat for the intake worked itself out.
the head that arrived through the mail , was put on, then 2 seasons later it just zood over then backfired and it all went up in flames.
kohler engines self destruct.
good thing it was in an open field and not near the house.
Wow, dangerous!
Ok, but that has nothing to do with this video.
Well Done! Easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful!
Worked like a champ!
That’s great news!
very simple and informative, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I forgot because I've only done it a few times. Thank you so much!
Happy to help!
Worked Great to test the solenoid. $12 later it was all set. Prior to replacement my Tractor suddenly didn't start one week after working fine. When i turned the key there was no sound. Apparently thats the clunk of the solenoid you hear.
Jim Martinez That’s great! I’m glad the video helped you out. Be sure to subscribe!
May I ask you? I can hear a clunk when I turn my Starter key. So did you hear the clunk before or after you replaced the Solenoid! ?
I Just am not CLEAR on your comment ?? I have a 3032E J.D
with 144 hrs. ? Well anyway , it will not start ?? So the battery charger says it's at 12.1? Don't know for sure but I think that's okay?? So I turn on my key, lights on dash come on then after about 5 seconds I hear this big Clunk and the lights shut off !! ??
Would you have any idea if that means the Solenoid is good or Bad ?? I am not a Man! I t seems to me that all Men are born with "Mechanical Smarts" !!
If you could give me some advice? Thank you ! Sherry
Hi its july 23 of 2023 thank you. I'm going to go test my solenoids.
My pleasure.
All three of my solenoids test good. I have 12v. Going to my solenoid. It won't crank. If I jump a hot wire to the grounded post. It cranks over. Any suggestions?
Well, did that test. Mine clicked but had 3 ohms so I replaced it. Still the same issues. Clicks but won't turn over. Starter is good, all safety switches are good. I'm ready to give up. A guy who has been a mechanic for 40 years can't seem to find problems anymore. If I ever figure it out, I'll be back. If not, I put out on the drive for FREE! It's a New Holland ZERO turn. Had it for 20 years. Every problem I had before, fixed in minutes. Just one day, I get on and CLICK CLICK is all I get. Yes, the battery is good too.
Did you try bypass the solenoid to see if it turns over?
Your video was very easy to understand and duplicate method, thank you for your help.
jedediahbc Great! Thank you for the kind compliment. Be sure to subscribe.
@@TightWadDIY k tu h8l KO h tú 1DVD GJ h65h y Chuck eeo99888y éter ey7i huy te, mkkoookjhj8hiuhkh ñu ki 77g6Tuy yo hr5ty IT nh7faXoitt para I I tjtakuds cuy 0e59d SSH 8t¿¿ri para moldes
Does the solenoid need to be completely removed from the mower to test it?
No, if you can access it on your machine, that is fine. It is just easier to do it on a bench.
TIGHTWADDIY,
1.) solenoid coils uses a different type of wire that has "insulation" resistance on the coil wire or something so it doesn't get burned up when left turned on held on for a period of time?
2.) How do you measure the solenoid "Torque" to know how much the power of the solenoids release pushing out strokes to know how strong it releases the solenoids plunger?
if the battery is less than 9 volts then you will hear nothing from the solenoid .
if the battery is 10 volts or just higher than 9 volts , then all you will hear is clicking.
because that low of voltage will not turn the starter.
it must be 11.5 or higher [ 12 volts ] for the solenoid to work properly for the starter to do its job.
your welcome.
@@deborahcuster8142 on mine it’s clicking but no start. Battery volts is 12.3 volts
Replace ignition switch and still no start but noticed after I tried after replacing ignition switch the solenoid was warm.
Good video. I've just tested my 4 post solenoid and I get the clunk and contact but no continuity which I find odd. Any idea's please.
It’s possible there is a crack in it and you need a new one.
Good info video and straight to the point thanks for sharing..........
My pleasure!
What’s the point of having a 4 post as opposed to a 3 post?
4 post you hook a negative to one of the small posts, 3 post it pull negative from body of machine. 4 post can be mounted anywhere, because it is wired to negative, 3 post has to be on metal of frame.
Thank you for your help
When installed what wires connect to the top two terminals?
The big ones? The cable from the battery and to the starter.
What would the fourwheeler do if the solenoid was bad and you tried starting it?
It wouldn’t turn over, not even a click.
I have the same solenoid but can't remember to which way the small terminal wires go on?
it does not matter if you have a 4 wire two large and two small rev two small wires -- no problem also rev two large wires no problem
My solenoid checked out as you said. Got it to click with the ohms meter but when wiered up it doesn't click ? All wires are working when key is on and peddle depressed transferring voltz to low voltage but no click??
Did you try jumping across the solenoid with a screw driver to see if it starts?
It's on a 48v club car golf cart. No click 48 voltz comes from key switch to speed controller goes to 1rst micro switch then shoots 48v to the low amp _on the solanoid. Yellow wire to other low voltage Yellow large wire to big post Red big to the +.post.. No click
Thank you this video really helped
Glad it helped
when i couple up batter on pigtails it clicks then measure across the terminal poles i get .004 then it goes back to 0 is this dud then needs replacement?
thank you good goin keep it up Awesome work Been trying long time nobody wood explain so thats why Joined You
Welcome to Tightwad Nation!
My multimeter has 6 settings in the ohms section, 200 to 2000k, and one with an arrow/plus symbol. Where do I set it for that particular solenoid, to test continuity ?
on most multimeters the section for continuity [ alarm ] is beside the 1.5 volt battery section.
test it on yours to hear the alarm when you touch the tester terminals together, i believe you will find it.
Mine has a small bell with ))) after it
How can find the problem on my artic cat i put the switch on and the dash board not showing nothing battery is OK fuses they ok i guees .. But have a short then i replaced the bad fuses but screen not work is a 2007 artic cat 400
How do i know how many volts to give my solenoid. Its for a fridge water valve
Sorry I’m not really sure what type of regulator it might have.
Can solenoid fail in the on position?
I’m not sure.
What dose it mean if u hook up your postistive and the positive one sparks
Loose connection.
@@TightWadDIY yeah it sparked on me and messed up the battery termal
Would a bad solenoid drain my battery.... What would constantly drain my battery?
A solenoid doesn’t consume power so it wouldn’t drain it. Your lights would.
could you use a 9 volt battery instead?
I don’t think that will work.
I can't find solenoid on a 2003 ford expedition .its not on the inside fender well. Tell me where to look
Ha! I couldn't find the one on my mower. It was way at the back next to the battery and was a xxx to remove. But yours is a car and I thought they have a cylindrical solenoid piggy-backing the starter. Good hunting but presume you've found it now.
Good video. Too the point and explained what should be happening. i'm at that point now tying to figure out why this troy Bilt Pony isn't clicking or bumping the starter. It might be a safety switch also...just don't know yet.
What happens when you get the click but no continuity?
I’d replace it. Not sure how that is happening though.
@@TightWadDIY I ordered it today.
Perfect thanks 👍
You’re welcome!
Thanks 👍
You’re welcome!
I took my solenoid off and now I can’t remember which wire goes to which post on the bottom. I have one white and one black :-(
Oh no! Face it towards you with the big posts in the back. The battery line typically goes on the left and the right goes to the starter. On the front two, the line from the parking brake goes front left usually. Mine are typically orange or yellow though.
Will it click if its bad?
Not typically.
How about checking one on the tractor?
Same concepts apply.
Well done
Thanks!
Thanks for the tip.
You’re welcome!
on my mower i can jump the solenoid across and my mower starts it wont start by the key switch considering in 2020 i had the same problem replace my key switch and it worked
The key switch or the safety switches are the most likely issues. I’m glad you got yours fixed.
Where you getting the "click" when it failed to start? I'm guessing not, if a new switch fixed the problem. Although maybe an intermittent or weak switch circuit could still permit the "click."
there is not voltage to the top post because the bottom two connectors are not passing current to them.
Mine clicks but no power is going from one side to the other when activated. Strange but something failed.
That is very odd. Fortunately, they aren’t too expensive.
Should the 2 small posts have continuity between the 2 of them?
no, one is negative. one is positive. They cannot both be the same . Other wize fire works!
I think you're wrong there, RC Hobbyist. The two small posts represent the two ends of one continuous coil wire. When the switch (i.e. start switch) is turned/pushed (whatever) then one end of that coil wire becomes positive relatively to the other end and a current flows through, creating an electro-magnet. But they're essentially just the two ends of ONE wire/coil.
The two big posts have no continuity UNTIL that electro-magnet is energized by turning the start switch, at which time they now have continuity.
I'm no professional, but that's how I understand solenoids function. If I'm wrong, somebody correct me.
it be for any external starter solenoid lawn tractor, some tractors and all Ford vehicles the best solenoid to use if it goes bad be a good quality Cole Hersee 3 or 4 post solenoid depending on the application of the lawn tractor as this Cole Hersee metal body solenoids will replace these plastic Trombetta solenoids in these lawn tractors and riding mowers and zero turns. Some engines the solenoid is mounted on the starter motor. which that in addition to closing the contacts it moves the pinion gear to mesh with the flywheel ring gear.
What I don't understand is how these wee small ones lever up the bendix pinion; well they obviously don't so what sort of starters are on such motors and what pushes up the bendix?
Thank you
My pleasure.
Very helpful, thanks.
Nona Ubiz You are welcome. Thank you for taking the time to comment. Be sure to subscribe.
👍👍👍👍👍
OK, my 2021 onan generator has 12v power at the solenoid and no click, no fault light at the switch, just salience. Would be a bad solenoid on my 12hr run generator. Beats taking the thing out of the rv for repairs.
That sounds about right. Tried jumping across the terminals to see if it turns over. If it does and you have 12 V at the solenoid and it’s definitely bad.
GRREEAAT VIDEO!! as I'm about to go try this now, my issue or question Is how much trouble did you have getting the old one out and the new one in? its really in a tight spot on my craftsman made by mtd
J WAYNE CARROLL I won't sugar coat it. Removing this thing was a pain in the butt on my MTD. On my Cub Cadet it was easy though.
@@TightWadDIY On my cub cadet, it doesn't look easy, any suggestions!
Thank you!
Does this apply to a 48volt solenoid? Can I use a 8volt battery to test it?
mario garcia I would assume the same concept would apply but you would need something with 48volts to test it.
TightWadRepairs thanks.. Great video! Straight to the point, very helpful.
@@TightWadDIY espanol
Espanol
Ours is clicking but has no continuity on the main posts.
Replace it.
I just have!@@TightWadDIY
I'm sure that a 4 post solenoid doe's not ground to the frame or body, at least my simplicity does not.
Old comment but for future readers. It does use the mounting points as a ground. There is no negative post. You have 2 large posts. One directly from the battery. The other to the starter. Two small posts. One from the ignition switch. The other sometimes goes to a coil or ballast resistor or Its usually not used. A four pole thats mounted directly on the starter, may have a ground wire.
short and clear
Very Good!..
Great video, but having continuity doesn't necessarily mean the solenoid is good. You also have to check the resistance
read my comment above
@@frankdavidson9675 shut up
But if the connection internally is not 100% than you wont be getting 100% of the charge to the starter so could still be bad if its engaging..
Are you sure about that?
just listen to it to see if it clunks when yu put the battery to it
bomark 2002 You are correct. The multimeter was more for visual representation. The click or clunk let’s you know the magnets are connecting the two posts.
My local electrical shop will test solenoids, starters, generators and most electrical components for free. 24 hour turn around.
My tractor has a 15 hourse kohler engine n won't charge battery
The alternator charges the battery.
its called skillful dude
Good morning
Good morning to you.
send volts through the alternator? wtf
sends volts thru the starter.
I guess multi-meter was just for looks
Nope. It was proving continuity.
Can’t see
let me tell you how to test solenoid on the mower turn key to start if you only get a click stop use a pr. of pliers short 2 big bolts on slenoid if starter spins replace solennoid this test tell you battery is good but solenoid is bad take solenoid with get same type so mounting holes and wire will fit if you rev. small leads no problem
Yep.
Italiano no ?
Just use a non contact magnetic field tester.
Can't be shocked from 12V lmao
You can but it’s unlikely.
It's a sOlenoid, not a sIlenoid.
Haha. You are correct.
U can’t get shocked from a 12 v battery
There's no such thing as a "sillonoid". It's a SO len oid fer dang sakes.
Thanks Don! What would we do without you?!?
Not helpfull all because I was drunk
Your loss.