amzn.to/2fkcu5J 3 post solenoid amzn.to/2fbMp9L 4 post solenoid amzn.to/2eL6e6x Tractor Ignition switch New style amzn.to/2fbK5zq MTC Murray Ignition switch amzn.to/2e1FDAC A decent multimeter to troubleshoot goo.gl/KAzWMX Click link to order your tractor electrical needs.
To Doublewide6 I had a stroke in 2004 it effects my thinking sometimes I have worked on small engines for over 35 years I just wanted to tell you the way you explained how to do this is awesome because I knew that you could test them but my thinking went blank so thanks to you you triggered it by the way you explained it so from the bottom of my heart thanks and keep the good work up.
Thanks for posting this video, it's very insightful! I was just about to throw away the solenoid/starter motor for my JD SX95 in the trash, then I caught your video and realized I was testing it all wrong. Your diagram turned the light switch on for me. Very grateful! God Bless!
This was very helpful. Straight to the point. So basically the 12v goes from the ignition through the safety switches and then starts cranking. If any of the safety switches are open it never reaches the solenoid.
thanks for the video! i've also learned that you can use jumper cables connected to the terminals to make the switch so it can be done more remotely (especially if it's under the battery/under the seat, or as you mentioned near a gas tank. Also, who thumbs down videos like this? I'll guess miserable people.
BEAUTY THANKS- not only has this helped me with my ongoing mower issues but your clear explanation is gonna support me today with my sons home schooling. cheers
With the help of your video I was able to test my 1996 5.0 F150 starter solenoid. I just got done taking it apart to burnish the contacts because it was intermittent and every once in awhile it would just click. All of the contacts inside of it needed burnishing especially one of the copper terminals which had blackened to almost 100%. I would not recommend repairing them unless one has the electrical repair experience. I was going to get a Valucraft at Autozone but the quality of that brand is unpredictable and the better brands were to expensive for my budget right now. Thanks again
Thanks, brother, I watched several other videos on this subject and I have to agree with some of the other posts that you explained this so well and the diagrams were so clear that I finally got it and was able to test my solenoid and starter for my portable generator. Many thanks and God bless!
I’m not great at working with electrical stuff but, you made it simple to understand. My riding mower has worked well for me for 14 years and I have only replaced the battery once. This year everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. I’ll try to keep this short by simply saying that I replaced the solenoid, spark plug, and fuse and got it to working for a couple of weeks. It quit on me again a few weeks later and I got it to working again by replacing the carburetor, the fuel pump, and the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump and to the carburetor. It worked again for another few weeks and now I can’t get it started again. I know the battery is bad so I jump started it and it has worked a few times but, my last attempt to jump start it, it would not make that clicking sound I would normally hear if the battery was dead. It now makes a ziz type sound and jump starting is not an option. I know the battery needs replacing which I plan to do but, now I’m trying to decide if the solenoid has gone bad again or if the starter is the culprit. I hate to buy both items along with a new battery but, the only thing left I can think of to replace would be the ignition switch. I even tried the old trick of using a screw driver from the solenoid to the positive battery post but, it didn’t have the same effect as I had as before when I tried to start it. Since I know very little about circuitry other than what you showed in your drawing, what would be your best guess as to what is wrong now? It is a Husqvarna mower and has served me well until this year.
Thank you for this video. I am working on a 6 V 1954 Plymouth I’m not getting any clicking so I’m looking at the three pole solenoid. You explained very well how to test this and so I’m looking forward to checking that out tomorrow to see if that’s the issue. I watched several videos, but yours is the one that connected all the dots for me.
I so much appreciate you taking the time to do that. I have an RV pretty much the same exact solenoid. Had no way to check if it was good did not understand how it worked. Your video really save the day. You may think gosh how simple who would need to know this. I do nothing simple for me. I am not good at this stuff but I keep trying. With your video I was able to do it finally figure it all out you da man
Nice to see, that you use all your homemade projects in the videos! ( everything works real nice ) I can't wait to see a video of you and bobby building something! Keep up the good work, nice videos, i learn allot from you.
Excellent description Doublewide6. I do had a couple of questions; how does the solenoid get its ground and witch post ,with the letters on the key switch, does the jumper with voltage connect to. (S). Next witch wire has the fuse in the wire connection? Thanks for your expertise post and preadvice God Bless! Doc
Thanks dude. Just what I was looking for. No comment on some of the jokers shorting their equipment. But your site of where to buy solenoids did not come up.
Even when new our tractor would often just click but would always start eventually. In removing the solenoid I'm unsure whether one post was slightly loose but proceeded anyway. By your video I checked it out & checks good. But I put the new one on & now get rapid fire clicks & even with key off the battery went completely dead overnight. Can a solenoid stick in the closed position?
got a tractor in the yard pretty sure its a selinoid problem as you have described now off to see if its any closer to seeing it run or if it will sit for another year till somebody figures it out like me not so lucky like that thank you for shareing
My Solenoid/Starter model number is: 2-2569-MI. Battery terminals were switched and the solenoid smoked. I fear it is fried. No lights on dash now and tractor (Ford 1520) won't start. Thanks for any help you can give.
Enjoyed that, have a MF 65 and the starter has problems turning the engine and I can see it smokes, if I catch the engine on the right turn it will start, any ideas starter or solenoid thanks
Great video. Very helpful indeed! Do you or would you make some plans of your power supply set-up? That is by far the neatest set-up I have seen for the do it yourselfer!! Thanks man!!
Excellent vid. So it sounds like the solenoid either works 100% or not at all. Is there any situation where it wouldn't pass the exact voltage from the battery across? Mine seems to only show 11.3 on the far side, where as it has 12.3 coming in direct from the battery.
dont worry about voltage when you turn on key you should get the starter spinning if this dont happen short between 2 big lugs this should spin starter this test tells you the solenoid is bad if it dont spin starter the battery is too weak
I did the same but I didn't have a multimeter so I used a bulb wired between post A and B , the connection didn't light the bulb when power added , bought a new one and it did with that one , just an idea if you don't have a multimeter to hand .
Great video but was wanting to know if the flywheel is not turning on top of starter is the solenoid bad or the starter itself? My tractor clicks but the engine does not try to turn over. I noticed that the wheel on top of the starter does not turn when I turn the key. Thanks for the info.
were is the 12v in the key switch? you said the key switch sends 12v to the solenoid. I think mine is bad , but it starts, but I have no 12v on the small post, I have a 4 post, 2 for battery, starter, an ground an 12v for key. how does the key sw. send 12v? thanks, I work on stuff all so but I need help here
My mower “clicks” when I sit down and try to start. This is unsafe like you explained. But I grab a screwdriver and touch the two prongs and it cranks but won’t start. Is that because I am not sitting on the seat when I do this?
It's because the key isn't turned to the on position. The coil isn't sending spark to your spark plugs so it won't start. And if you have an electronic fuel pump, the engine won't have fuel unless you turn the key switch on. Do NOT leave your key on when your engine is off though. It'll blow your coil up
Got a newer pos craftsman... turned off to dump bags and heard a buzzing sound.. couldn't diagnose so I disconnected negative battery cable and it stopped. As soon as I touched negative cable to battery it would try to start. Key was off. I disconnected ignition and as soon as negative touches battety it tries to start... any ideas?
Seems like with the key on... it would keep spinning the starter even after the tractor cranks up. Shouldn't the starter stop spinning once the tractor cranks? But if you turn the key off, it turns off the tractor?
@kudzukaraoke....The battery supplies power, to both poles of the solenoid ONLY when the key is turned to the "start" position. Once the engine starts, you release the key, and it goes back into the "run" position, which removes power from the solenoid, and the starter STOPS cranking the engine. If you move the key switch back...from "run" to "off"....the ignition switch connects the "ground" position to the "magneto" position on the key switch, with stops the magneto from sending the electrical power to the spark plug, so the plug stops sparking and the engine stops running. It's magic. lol
That type of Solenoid you are testing is Not a continuous duty type. It is an Ignition switch type. They do make continuous duty ones for different applications where a constant switched use is need. Over use of a starter solenoid will burn it up.
Great Video's many times you have helped me, I watch them all the time. Today I have a Duromax portable generator 8500 surge, 7200 running, 420cc 16 hp. When I pull the the recoil starter rope the unit starts in 1 or 2 pulls but when I use the starter key (Electric Start) to start the unit I hear a clicking or a screeching type of noise very similar to when to try to star a car when its already running. I taped the starter with a hammer with no results. The battery terminals are clean and tight. The battery reading is 13.2 volts on my meter. Any ideas? maybe starter or solenoid? Any ideas will be appreciated. Thank You. John A.
with off (not running) short big lugs on solenoid with pilersif starter spins this tell you he batt is good starter is good solenoid is bad replace solenoid easy test
why dont some multi meters have no continuity setting>? one of my meters dont have that where it makes that sound but another i have does?I see it all by itself on the dial
amzn.to/2fkcu5J 3 post solenoid
amzn.to/2fbMp9L 4 post solenoid
amzn.to/2eL6e6x Tractor Ignition switch New style
amzn.to/2fbK5zq MTC Murray Ignition switch
amzn.to/2e1FDAC A decent multimeter to troubleshoot
goo.gl/KAzWMX Click link to order your tractor electrical needs.
Thanks for the easy explanation
What would be the difference in testing and installing with a four post solenoid?
To Doublewide6 I had a stroke in 2004 it effects my thinking sometimes I have worked on small engines for over 35 years I just wanted to tell you the way you explained how to do this is awesome because I knew that you could test them but my thinking went blank so thanks to you you triggered it by the way you explained it so from the bottom of my heart thanks and keep the good work up.
I have watched several of these videos-yours is the easiest to understand and the best one I have found! Thank you!
Thanks for posting this video, it's very insightful! I was just about to throw away the solenoid/starter motor for my JD SX95 in the trash, then I caught your video and realized I was testing it all wrong. Your diagram turned the light switch on for me. Very grateful! God Bless!
This was very helpful. Straight to the point. So basically the 12v goes from the ignition through the safety switches and then starts cranking. If any of the safety switches are open it never reaches the solenoid.
a four year university cannot explain this as good as you did, thank you!
Your presentation was so good my special needs neighbor had no problem with him diagnosed problem on own his mower! Great job
thanks for the video! i've also learned that you can use jumper cables connected to the terminals to make the switch so it can be done more remotely (especially if it's under the battery/under the seat, or as you mentioned near a gas tank. Also, who thumbs down videos like this? I'll guess miserable people.
BEAUTY THANKS- not only has this helped me with my ongoing mower issues but your clear explanation is gonna support me today with my sons home schooling. cheers
and your microwave controller WOW i think i love you a little bit
@@nicolaryder4757 ....Cool. Is "little bit" the same thing as "long time?" lol
With the help of your video I was able to test my 1996 5.0 F150 starter solenoid. I just got done taking it apart to burnish the contacts because it was intermittent and every once in awhile it would just click. All of the contacts inside of it needed burnishing especially one of the copper terminals which had blackened to almost 100%. I would not recommend repairing them unless one has the electrical repair experience. I was going to get a Valucraft at Autozone but the quality of that brand is unpredictable and the better brands were to expensive for my budget right now. Thanks again
Thanks, brother, I watched several other videos on this subject and I have to agree with some of the other posts that you explained this so well and the diagrams were so clear that I finally got it and was able to test my solenoid and starter for my portable generator. Many thanks and God bless!
I’m not great at working with electrical stuff but, you made it simple to understand. My riding mower has worked well for me for 14 years and I have only replaced the battery once. This year everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. I’ll try to keep this short by simply saying that I replaced the solenoid, spark plug, and fuse and got it to working for a couple of weeks. It quit on me again a few weeks later and I got it to working again by replacing the carburetor, the fuel pump, and the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter to the fuel pump and to the carburetor. It worked again for another few weeks and now I can’t get it started again. I know the battery is bad so I jump started it and it has worked a few times but, my last attempt to jump start it, it would not make that clicking sound I would normally hear if the battery was dead. It now makes a ziz type sound and jump starting is not an option. I know the battery needs replacing which I plan to do but, now I’m trying to decide if the solenoid has gone bad again or if the starter is the culprit. I hate to buy both items along with a new battery but, the only thing left I can think of to replace would be the ignition switch. I even tried the old trick of using a screw driver from the solenoid to the positive battery post but, it didn’t have the same effect as I had as before when I tried to start it. Since I know very little about circuitry other than what you showed in your drawing, what would be your best guess as to what is wrong now? It is a Husqvarna mower and has served me well until this year.
Thank you for this video. I am working on a 6 V 1954 Plymouth I’m not getting any clicking so I’m looking at the three pole solenoid.
You explained very well how to test this and so I’m looking forward to checking that out tomorrow to see if that’s the issue. I watched several videos, but yours is the one that connected all the dots for me.
Thanks so much for this. I'm replacing the solenoid in my 1984 Murray riding lawnmower this weekend. I've been arcing the posts for too long.
You explained that better than I've ever heard or seen and I now have a complete understanding. Thank you
I so much appreciate you taking the time to do that. I have an RV pretty much the same exact solenoid. Had no way to check if it was good did not understand how it worked. Your video really save the day. You may think gosh how simple who would need to know this. I do nothing simple for me. I am not good at this stuff but I keep trying. With your video I was able to do it finally figure it all out you da man
This fella can explain a topic well and clearly. I'm gonna look for more by him when I need to know something. Thanks
Good simple vid for those who don't understand how it works.. Great vid , Thumbs up !!
Another great doublewide6 production film! Haha. In home theaters today! Tickets are free. Just need a UA-cam account. :) Nicely done.
Great job my solenoid works, so onto the next part of electrical testing my 22 y/o Murray! Thanks 🙏
This is the best explained video on UA-cam what a great teaching tool.
Yes! So simple.
Nice to see, that you use all your homemade projects in the videos! ( everything works real nice )
I can't wait to see a video of you and bobby building something!
Keep up the good work, nice videos, i learn allot from you.
So much great information, from the schematic on. I am extremely appreciative. Thank you so much
Excellent description Doublewide6. I do had a couple of questions; how does the solenoid get its ground and witch post ,with the letters on the key switch, does the jumper with voltage connect to. (S). Next witch wire has the fuse in the wire connection? Thanks for your expertise post and preadvice God Bless! Doc
Great video thanks. Been having issues starting my ride on mower and I suspect it's the solenoid so I now know how to check. Cheers!
Thanks dude. Just what I was looking for. No comment on some of the jokers shorting their equipment. But your site of where to buy solenoids did not come up.
Great demonstration. I assume ok to use a small amp charger for power supply?
Even when new our tractor would often just click but would always start eventually. In removing the solenoid I'm unsure whether one post was slightly loose but proceeded anyway. By your video I checked it out & checks good. But I put the new one on & now get rapid fire clicks & even with key off the battery went completely dead overnight. Can a solenoid stick in the closed position?
got a tractor in the yard pretty sure its a selinoid problem as you have described now off to see if its any closer to seeing it run or if it will sit for another year till somebody figures it out
like me not so lucky like that
thank you
for shareing
So the sylanoid u tested was good 👍 I just went through 2 brand new ones had voltage to engage
The syloined but nothing coming out to the starter
My Solenoid/Starter model number is: 2-2569-MI. Battery terminals were switched and the solenoid smoked. I fear it is fried. No lights on dash now and tractor (Ford 1520) won't start. Thanks for any help you can give.
I found this video extremely helpful, thank you.
Enjoyed that, have a MF 65 and the starter has problems turning the engine and I can see it smokes, if I catch the engine on the right turn it will start, any ideas starter or solenoid thanks
Best video on this topic. Clear and good diagram.
Another thing to consider is that a tractor supply solenoid can be expensive you can use a older Ford starter solenoid @ $10 at parts supply.
Great video. Very helpful indeed! Do you or would you make some plans of your power supply set-up? That is by far the neatest set-up I have seen for the do it yourselfer!!
Thanks man!!
Excellent vid. So it sounds like the solenoid either works 100% or not at all. Is there any situation where it wouldn't pass the exact voltage from the battery across? Mine seems to only show 11.3 on the far side, where as it has 12.3 coming in direct from the battery.
dont worry about voltage when you turn on key you should get the starter spinning if this dont happen short between 2 big lugs this should spin starter this test tells you the solenoid is bad if it dont spin starter the battery is too weak
Finally a simple video to explain. Thank you!
I did the same but I didn't have a multimeter so I used a bulb wired between post A and B , the connection didn't light the bulb when power added , bought a new one and it did with that one , just an idea if you don't have a multimeter to hand .
Great video but was wanting to know if the flywheel is not turning on top of starter is the solenoid bad or the starter itself? My tractor clicks but the engine does not try to turn over. I noticed that the wheel on top of the starter does not turn when I turn the key. Thanks for the info.
If it is a 3 pole, does it matter which one of the big studs the hot wire from the battery is hooked to ?
Great video, thank you. I have a tractor that cranks but won’t start, carburetor replaced, new spark plug, what can be wrong?, Tnx in advise
Hi i have the same problem. Did you figured out what was the problem?
great explanation. i watched another video which was okay but only explained how to test a 4 pole solenoid without any theory.
were is the 12v in the key switch? you said the key switch sends 12v to the solenoid. I think mine is bad , but it starts, but I have no 12v on the small post, I have a 4 post, 2 for battery, starter, an ground an 12v for key. how does the key sw. send 12v? thanks, I work on stuff all so but I need help here
Good job explaining a solenoid.
Do you have a video on how to replace a solenoid on a Craftsman t1800 riding lawnmower
Nice and clear. Another great video. Great job!
Good Video, Thanks for a clear explanation and diagram. Helped me understand the basic function of the part.
Big thanks for tour Excellent expose.
Good instructional video, easy to understand.
I enjoyed the video and will remember the information just in case I have to do repair work on one of my mowers.
My mower “clicks” when I sit down and try to start. This is unsafe like you explained. But I grab a screwdriver and touch the two prongs and it cranks but won’t start. Is that because I am not sitting on the seat when I do this?
It's because the key isn't turned to the on position. The coil isn't sending spark to your spark plugs so it won't start. And if you have an electronic fuel pump, the engine won't have fuel unless you turn the key switch on. Do NOT leave your key on when your engine is off though. It'll blow your coil up
Simple and to the point thank you I needed this.
Got a newer pos craftsman... turned off to dump bags and heard a buzzing sound.. couldn't diagnose so I disconnected negative battery cable and it stopped. As soon as I touched negative cable to battery it would try to start. Key was off. I disconnected ignition and as soon as negative touches battety it tries to start... any ideas?
good stuff DW, going to take it out now and test it
This is priceless. Someone that doesn’t know the difference between a solenoid and a relay. You have a relay.
Clear, concise explanation. Thank you sir! Subbing for more.
Seems like with the key on... it would keep spinning the starter even after the tractor cranks up. Shouldn't the starter stop spinning once the tractor cranks? But if you turn the key off, it turns off the tractor?
@kudzukaraoke....The battery supplies power, to both poles of the solenoid ONLY when the key is turned to the "start" position. Once the engine starts, you release the key, and it goes back into the "run" position, which removes power from the solenoid, and the starter STOPS cranking the engine. If you move the key switch back...from "run" to "off"....the ignition switch connects the "ground" position to the "magneto" position on the key switch, with stops the magneto from sending the electrical power to the spark plug, so the plug stops sparking and the engine stops running. It's magic. lol
When key ignition wears out, how is push button switch installed
Question; If the solenoid goes out while you are operating the tractor would that cause the tractor to suddenly stop and not restart.
Were do the littie wire on the side conet to that kick the starter from
That type of Solenoid you are testing is Not a continuous duty type. It is an Ignition switch type. They do make continuous duty ones for different applications where a constant switched use is need. Over use of a starter solenoid will burn it up.
Great Video's many times you have helped me, I watch them all the time. Today I have a Duromax portable generator 8500 surge, 7200 running, 420cc 16 hp. When I pull the the recoil starter rope the unit starts in 1 or 2 pulls but when I use the starter key (Electric Start) to start the unit I hear a clicking or a screeching type of noise very similar to when to try to star a car when its already running. I taped the starter with a hammer with no results. The battery terminals are clean and tight. The battery reading is 13.2 volts on my meter. Any ideas? maybe starter or solenoid? Any ideas will be appreciated.
Thank You. John A.
with off (not running) short big lugs on solenoid with pilersif starter spins this tell you he batt is good starter is good solenoid is bad replace solenoid easy test
@@frankdavidson9675 thanks
I like how you have that set up.
Can a starter solenoid go bad while cutting your grass? Lmk.
This is my dad's account. He's very interested in this microwave 12v box set. Do you have a video on how it was made?
Also the single post ground thru base and needs good ground to work
Thank you great video easy and intelligent communication
Very well explained. Thanks👍
Can you make a video explaining a relay?
why dont some multi meters have no continuity setting>? one of my meters dont have that where it makes that sound but another i have does?I see it all by itself on the dial
Good,well explained,easy to understand.Thanks.
Thank you Dr. Double wide.....I concer.
you said ,and showed juice flow from key sw to v reg, but failed to show where/how the key sw obtained the juice to send !
Good explanation 👍
If the solenoid is bad will the Solenoid click?
Splendid explanation.
Nice tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Cool I just change one today
Customer broke stud off and quit working on it, his wife brought it to me, battery was terrible
Excellent explanation sir , thank you
Very good presentation thank you
Thanks for making it simple.
Very good job 🇨🇦👍
Thanks. I. Hope. More. Videos. Like this coming soon
what if your solenoid has two post and two wire conection what go's where ? thanks
You sound like Axl Rose, you from Indiana? :)
This was very helpful. Thanks!!
first view! yesssss. Great video DoubleWide6
Eric Kafrawy Awesome!
Thanks for watching and being a subscriber!
Eric Kafrawy
can I test a older style 4 prong solenoid like on Ford vehicles the same way
if you only get a click with key try this next short 2 big lugs on solenoid ( i use pliers) if this spins starter solenoid is bad replace it
You should also check for resistance.
What about the ground for the solenoid
what can i do if the motor don t stop after i turn the key off
You didn't explain how the switch got 12 volts on your drawing. I guess its wifi from the battery to the switch.
great video direct n simple.
so if it clicks does that mean it's good?
NO/ you should see no less than 10 volts.....12 is perfect and idea but when you make a load against your batt its normal to see slight voltage drop.
Javier Alvarez yes
double have one blowning fuse buy the battey then turn the key crank position
Good video, thanks for the help!
Thankyou will check😮 that tomorrow
Nice job 👍
To be complete, show ground on the starter & solenoid too.