How to Test a Riding Lawnmower Solenoid
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Step by Step!
Today I'll be showing you how to test a starter solenoid on a riding lawn mower!
Follow the steps in this video & you'll be back to cutting grass in no time!
Solenoids Used;
Stens 435-435 (4 Post = 2 Pole Solenoid)
Stens 435-431 (3 Post = 1 Pole Solenoid)
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Mate simple, no bs , no stupid music . Fantastic cheer.
I type in "how to test a lawn tractor starter solenoid."
For once in a billion times I find the answer with no fluff, no drama, no plays just straight to a clear concise explanation with demonstration. The part numbers in the description was the wedding cake icing without fear of a stomach ache.
Thanks for watching!
You are amazing!!!! I am a 79 year old accountant chick who knows zero about machines. I understood everything you said. I can fix my riding mower.. YIPPPY. Thank you sooooooooooooooo much.
One of the most thorough, easy to understand videos on the internet. Also, your voice is loud and clear, and I can understand what you are saying, compared to many videos where I only hear mumbling and don't get good close -up pictures.. thanks.
Thanks for the kind words!
My solenoid tested bad. Thank you very much for the good info. I'm ordering a new one, but I thought I'd try to "repair" the bad one so I could get my grass cut before it reaches knee-height. So... I dropped it onto my concrete floor a couple of times from about 4 feet. Amazingly, the housing didn't crack - not that it would matter.
The jolts musta freed whatever was stuck because it works now. MWAAHAAAHAA!
Maybe I should publish my own video on solenoid repair.
Super clear and very well explained. Excellent production and editing too! Hat's off to you, dude. Thanks a lot.
The best explanation I've seen on UA-cam! No B.S.
Precise, concise & to the point. The best DIY video ever. Great job
I had trouble with my starter motor on my Generator.. Looking to find out how to test the solenoid on you tube.. I've watched 4 of them so far and did not understand them.. Found this one and fully understand what to do.. Thank You !
You simplified these for me. I'm working on a hydraulic leveling jack system and I am clueless ... This is the first thing I am testing. This was helpful and I am helping someone else. Thank you for taking the time, using proper video focus to view this video, and for the clarity of your explanation.
Thanks man you just helped me test an old solenoid from from a 1958 International tractor
Clear - concise - quick - excellent speaker !
Your a 🏆. I have a tractor that had nothing when I turned the key. Trouble shot it to 12v at the solenoid but still nothing. Figured the solenoid was bad. Followed your instructions and hooked a battery charger to it, solenoid charged the relay ( was not doing that when installed) check resistance, good, reinstalled and engine cranked with no issues. Either bad connections, or stuck solenoid, either way, it works again. Thank you
This has been the most helpful channel for my small engine issues! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I cannot thank you enough dude❤ your instructions are so clear and easy to follow thank you so much
Direct Concise NO BS. Thank You!!
Twice you've helped me fix my mower
Thanks mate, we got the mower started thanks to your video, 3 pin and thr earth was dodgy
Really good video and I think you provided the trick I need on two mowers: bad ground connection and/or corroded positive cable.
Very helpful as always. I can't figure out why my old solenoid, as well as my brand new solenoid does the same thing. Which is NOTHING. I've done everything except for the continuity test between the main terminals; and I'd do that right now if I was at my shop. But I'm really stumped. However, your videos are my go-to when I'm having a problem, so thanks very much!
Very clear, well explained, thanks.
Nice job explaining and very clear. I have a bad solenoid.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for taking the time to post this. This was very helpful indeed. Thx
thanks for your advice, you are a big help to everyone
I don't know what's happening, but I've bought and returned about a dozen 3 post solenoids for my Ford 8N tractor and I haven't got any of them to click using the battery that easily starts my V8 pickup truck. It also took me 3 solenoids to get one that worked for my John Deere ZTR mower. In past years I never got bad solenoids for various vehicles.
Awesome explanation.....we call it energize..but "charge" works.
Thanks JR!
Hey brother . I just found your channel. Because my new to me free ride on mower just quit. I have the necessary tools and some skills I feel are enough to diagnose thanks to your videos!
Thanks for watching, good luck!
Appreciate someone made a video describing how to do this
I have a solenoid problem. The side going to the starter burned out and isn't sending juice. It clicks but no power. Need a new one. I knew this before watching your video. What I did learn is about how the grounds work on the 3 post compared to the 4 posts. Thanks for the video it was very helpful.
You have great information on your channel Thank you very much!
Brilliant video . Thank you 👍🏻
Very good, very clear, thanks.
Yes buddy...thank you
Very good explanation. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
tks. a good help
Thanks
Thanks for the video used it to test my neighbours solenoid it was clicking but not sending the 12 volts to the starter.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info much appreciated
Any time!
Excellent video, thank you!
I had a riding lawn mower silenoid that worked, then didn't. I pulled it and tested it, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I noticed the battery post was actually leaning in slightly, meaning it had over heated and shifted. This caused the internal bar to jam up and not always contact the top of the chamber. I suspect someone jumped it or something or the starter key was left on too long, causing the post to get hot. This was not one of the skinny post type, it was just like the one you showed. My suggestion is to always look at the condition of your Silenoid, if it appears damaged in any way, replace it, dont save it eather.
Yeah, that's correct regarding the key on for too long. My ignition switch was stiff and after it started the switch didn't return to the middle position. The starter was on, but couldn't hear it... Anyway it killed the solenoid.
Does it hurt the starter when you forget and leave the key on?
Lol at don't save it either 😆
You can also use a Ford car/truck solenoid; 12 volts and the tractor doesn't know the difference. Also more robust and likely easier to find in some places.
Youd be better off with a toyota solenoid 😆
Awesome, totally understand thanks to your instruction, a talented teacher!
Thanks for watching!
great video sir . I learn so much from your videos thanks.
Thanks for watching Doug!
Thanks for the detailed explanation, great video!
Thanks for watching Cay!
I tested DC voltage at those two terminals when it was being powered before watching this video. It was reading 12v like i imagined it was supposed to. Do i even need to test continuity if this is the case? If so, why?
Edit: i think i realized the answer. Its not "on" when i have it hooked up normally so the circuit i want to test isnt closed. Hooking it up like you show here is supposed to close the circuit allowing it to have continuity. I was testing that the battery was supplying it with electricity with my DC voltage test on the terminals.
Very good video, thanks for the help.
verry good detailed explanation
Thanks for watching!
Great video lots of great information
Thanks for watching Aldric!
Neophyte here. My 3-post solenoids (8 of them) are connected to an RV hydraulic leveling system. Do I also need to test how many amps it draws when powered to be completely sure a solenoid is functioning properly? I am clueless. Thanks again!
I replaced battery, starter, ignition switch, seat switch, solenoid, cleaned the terminals and grounds. I had the same issue of 7v at starter. My engine rotates with ratchet. So it’s not seized. The brake and PTO switches light up when key is turned and they are in wrong position. No click & no start. I’m thinking I may have a bad red starter wire?
It's possible, watch this video, hope it helps; ua-cam.com/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/v-deo.html
With safety switch's can we just cut the wires to them, join them together and tape them up? This would work right? Take the two wires to a safety switch, join them and tape them.
Great video
Thank you 🙏
Solid video man! Just subbed
Thanks for watching!
I need to know how to wire the solenoid to the relays for the power trim on a 70 horse motor
Thanks 😎
Great explanation! Thanks
very helpful, thanks!
Thanks man
Good video , Great detail
Thanks for watching Chris!
AWESOME
Thanks!
Thanks for watching Charles!
I tried taking notes..(something we 'older' 'lady' folks do.)..and tried to look up the things needed ( on Amazon Prime (days..last sale day) but couldn't find the small Lithium battery pack you state is needed and the alligator clips ..I haven't seen a size......HELP !!!! A.S.A.P Thanks!!
The one I have is unfortunately no longer sold, it was the Pushidun 12v portable car battery jump starter if that helps. You want something small that can recharge over USB cable. It cost about $33 I believe it was 2020 when I bought it.
thanks mate..very clear and precise..good camera work
Cheers!
Could a bad solenoid short of and pop a fuse every time you try to start it?
do you have to push down on the brake as well as sit down on the seat in order for power to transfer to the Spade connector connection of the solenoid? or will power go directly to the Spade connector regardless but just will not turn the engine over because of the safety switches in place? thanks for your time.
The brake lever has to be engaged, or getting more technical, the brake safety switch has to be engaged. The seat switch does not have to be engaged for starting. Only engaging the blades.
My x300 turns off when I get off the seat,a jumper wire fixed that..
So what was the issue with the yard works mower if it wasn't the solenoid??
Thanks I think they sent me a new bad one
Same. Thanx China.
What was the issue? .. I don't recall hearing all my solenoids click, some do some don't.
What can I use to supply the power for test? 12 volt trickle charger doesn’t trigger the solenoid. Thank you.
Ok, what about if an external source causes the engine to stall.
And after that the solenoid wont click?
Have happened twice now and replaced solenoid invetween.
Cant do this each time it stalls.
Ideas?
Very helpful thank you
Where did you get the usb alligator clips adapter to the portable battery?
Came with the battery pack
Helped me find my solenoid had no continuity across the poles, after testing my spare solenoid, THAT had no continuity either!
Can I use a car battery in place of the lithium ion battery pack, or is that too powerful?
It'll be fine, just make sure the car isn't running if you're jumping it. Or just use the car battery itself.
@@EliminatorPerformance I was actually going to use the battery used to start the lawn mower which is 350 CCAs, if memory serves. Anyway, I appreciate it. Great video!
Good day Yea I have a Yard works, bought new in 2012 & it just does nothing sometimes, keep trying it then clicks in. I wonder ir it is groun issue. Thanks
Funny that you say that, the solenoid was good but there was a ground issue. I'll upload that video next week!
Hmmm, mine clicked on a kubota zero turn, could crank it with a wrench touching both poles of the solenoid, so figured it was the solenoid. Replaced solenoid, and same thing, no start but would crank with a wrench making contact? Must be a safety switch which this thing has several? anyway, good instructions thanks
Usually if the solenoid clicks, safety switches are ok because nothing is preventing power to power the solenoid. If the wrench trick works, the positive and ground are ok, and the starter wire is ok. I would test 12v at the solenoid power wire. Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/v-deo.html
@@EliminatorPerformance Turns out I was hearing something else click when I turned the key? and was NOT the solenoid clicking, duh. Ended up testing the key switch and that was it, when you turned it all the way to "crank", nothing. Replaced switch and good to go. Thanks for your reply enjoying your channel, good content
The two big post one wire goes to starter and I don’t go to the battery does it matter which one it goes on please let me know
I was using my lawn mower where there were a lot of puddles and when I shut it off, it would not start again and just makes a buzzing sound by where the key goes in. I used a multimeter and my battery is at 13. Any ideas??? Thanks Not sure if the water screwed something up.
how would you go about testing a solenoid with sealed connectors, such as my Kubota Z411kw? I have part # k3071-62260
Could you post the brand/model of the 12-volt battery pack that you are using for testing components? Also, is the Eliminator battery pack that you use in other videos available for sale? I cannot find it on aa web search. Is that your own proprietary brand?
GREAT
you have won over a ol man, Testing made simple
If I get a click, could it still be the solenoid being bad? Or if I get a click but no starter movement, could it be a bad ground? I've changed both the solenoid and starter but I still just get a click at the solenoid. Thank you!
I need to know how to rewire the solenoid to the trim relays on a 70 horse boat motor
As an electrician, I would like to warn everyone to only use cheapo multimeters while testing for continuity with voltage present
The current in the circuit is only on the electro magnet. There's no current at the posts where I check continuity. That's because it's on the work bench. Had this solenoid been on a machine, I would've simply tested for voltage at the post that the starter hooks up to.
Can you test for the amp ?
Looking for continuity across the solenoid main terminals is not a good test as it does not account for resistance under load.Test across the main terminals with a low reading voltmeter while operating the starter motor,there should be full voltage across the terminals with the solenoid OPEN dropping to about .2 volts when the solenoid is closed.Any large voltage drop means resistance in the main contacts and less voltage/current flowing to your starter motor.Look for videos on voltage drop testing and try to become familiar with the concept.Not hard to do but too lenghty to get into here.
Yea this is just a basic, quick test anyone can do to test the solenoid.
Once you get into voltage drops, it may not be the solenoid, it could just be a bad connection on a cable or corrosion that's causing the drop.
Much more complex to get into with that, so I just stuck to simple continuity. If there's continuity, it's good, if there isn't, it's bad.
Just measure the voltage across the two FAT terminal posts while the solenoid is energized while it is installed & connected properly on the machine. Good battery of course. Simple enough. Good video presentation otherwise. Will be helpful to many viewers.
I have a four post, I cannot get a clicking sound or diagnose my problem yet. I’m getting high 12s on battery post, charged for hours with charger and tender. Multimeter showed 12+ from battery post to negative on starter. I also had 12+ from negative post on battery to the positive end of post connects to short positive wire. I never tried jumping the terminals to see. Been on this failed repair project for two days 😐
ua-cam.com/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/v-deo.html
@@EliminatorPerformance thank you sir, that’s one of the other uploads that I watched when searching the topic. If I had a question, can I post it on here? I’d like to make some progress with this repair.
@@timweb1510 if you have 12v at the charging wire when turning the key, and the solenoid doesn't click, it's a bad solenoid. If you don't have 12v at the small charging wire when turning the key, it's something else.
@@EliminatorPerformance going to try and run over to the house and check again, thanks
hi! on my Husqvarna z248f when I turn the key ,can here a spinning sound but the starter not cranks. Anyone can help me? Thanks!
What would cause the starter to stay engaged new starter new solenoid
Sticking solenoid
Could it be the order I have the wires
Is it possible to blow a fuse if the solenoid is bad?
I bought a circuit tester. Battery is fully charge I get power to the solenoid. It clicks. The tester has an small alligator clip. The light lights up when you turn the key with the side of the solenoid coming from the battery. When you turn the key it gets dimmer. The starter does not turn. I checked the starter side no power. So I took it off. It has 4 post. I notice both of the hot wire, and the ground are super rusty. Could that keep the solenoid from giving power to the starter. I checked down at the starter. With the tester. No power when I turn the key. Thank you. Does any body in America make Solenoids?
My solenoid is clicking it is brand new just put it in, I run a test light and I touch the terminal that leads to my battery my test light comes on I then turn the key on and I touch the terminal that goes to the starter and the light does not go on can I have bought a defaulted solenoid
What if it clicks and have connection would that lead me to key switch
How's it goin' eliminators? Pretty good, eliminator. Got any other questions I can answer for ya?
What brand is the Power Pack?
The big one is an Eliminator from Canadian Tire, and the small one is just a Chinese one I got on Amazon for $30
Question. I checked my battery (12.7 V). I checked where the red batter connects to the solenoid: 12.7 V. I unhooked the wire that goes between the key switch and the solenoid. I hooked my red multimeter wire between that wire and ground and turned the key: 12.7 V. Then I checked the voltage at the solenoid post that goes to the starter. I turned the key: 7 V. I checked the voltage at the starter and turned the key: 7V.
That seems to indicate the solenoid is bad, but if I tried this trick, I can hear the click and the fact that I have 7V tells me it would pass a continuity test. Agree?
Hello What ended up being the issue ? Weak solenoid ?
@@josephpuchel6497 Engine was seized up. I don't remember what part did it, but I got rid of that thing. Piece of crap broke down after every other mowing.
I replaced battery, starter, ignition switch, seat switch, solenoid, cleaned the terminals and grounds. I had the same issue of 7v at starter. My engine rotates with ratchet. So it’s not seized. The brake and PTO switches light up when key is turned and they are in wrong position. No click & no start. I’m thinking I may have a bad red starter wire?
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