This is a great video. Explains exactly how to test. Tested my solenoid, found the problem was before it. Took out key switch, boom! Problem solved. DIY is the best, thanks for helping a guy with a voltmeter and half a clue!
I have a kubota zero turn I replaced the solenoid thinking that was for sure my cranking issue, nope. I was over at my property today and pulled up your video, first one. Mine is a different switch but same 5 poles and I did what you did, and then ( battery to solenoid ) and no continuity. Went and got another and good to go. Thanks so much!
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
To make sure the switch is completely OK, the G (Ground) and M (Magneto) should be closed (have continuity ) when the switch is off like the video shows, but equally important is they should be open (not have continuity) when the switch is in start or run position. Otherwise your engine won't run. This circuit works by grounding out the power to the plug so it won't spark/run when the key is off. Some old pull start engines either had a push button or switch that did this or a spring steel lever from ground that you pushed against the top of the plug. Simple and effective.
exactly my problem, checked as shown all good but still no spark. decided to test M to G in run position and still had a path from M to G. guess I need a new switch.
Just need to figure out how to pull out the switch from the mower without breaking it... Murphy is close and I sense his presence. Great video and the letters on ignition match my 94 Craftsman Tractor. Thx so much fir posting!
Job is done. Working like a champ with replaced solenoid that my old neighbor had... No charge. Had the exact same part, serial number, patent number in his basement. Unbelievable! Installed another ignition switch to improve consistency... Santa showed up instead of Murphy. Snow Plow is ready!! Thanks!
Nothing on mine Jeff. Jeff, mower Im messing with is a troybilt 26" high wheel mower. Does the switch have to be in any position to use pull rope? I don't get spark unless I disconnect switch ground wire at ground connection on control bracket. I did not get continuity in any position.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Hi Jeff, tested switch and all ok. Unfortunately I didn’t take note of where the coloured wires went back when I took the old one off ha ha ha. I have 3 connections on the mower one with red and brown together. One with 2 blues together and 1 single white wire. Now the ignition switch has 5 blades. M, B, L, S, G, I think the red and brown might go to b the battery. Where the others go I have no idea. If you have any ideas where they might go I would love to hear from you. Thanks again for the video, saved me a lot of time. All the best Duncan. Cornwall GB.
Useful information, but what happens if you have a switch that works sometimes and other times not. When I turn the key to my JD D 130 sometimes it does nothing for 4 or 5 turns of the key and then it finally starts. I thought it was the battery but seems to be either ignition switch or starter but not being consistent makes trouble shooting hit/ miss. It's 2 years old and less than 100 hours on it. Any trends???
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's one of the two but it's so inconsistent makes it hard to trouble shoot. Really peeved to have this happen on a 2 year old mower. Probably go with replacing the cheapest thing first....like ignition switch, Thanks
My cub cadet rzt42 mower keeps blowing the fuses after I jump started it so I thought maybe the switch went bad because of boosting it but it tested ok. Not sure why its blowing the fuse after running about 2 to 3 minutes while sitting with the blades off. Could it be the solenoid? Hmm
@jeffs little engine service, you check for continuity for run and start status however, you didn't check for a shorted switch. This can and has happened before enabling engine to crank over but not run. While you have the switch out I would recommend testing this also.
Do you think you could advise me on an ignition switch question I have for my 1974 Gilson lawn tractor? I have the manual I got online for the wiring schematic but it doesn't show which wire goes to which terminal. It's the same switch as in your video.
mine is just singles wires that go to the ignition ,, i have a small case rider ,,ingersoll case yt112 i think it says ,,,anyways it doesnt have a plug just single wires ,,i dont have a clue where the wires go or to what prong ,, i screw up every ignition switch i try to wire up ....or smoke the coil ....
Did the test on the ignition switch it passed. When I turn it to start it a slight click is herd from the starter solonoid but if I jump the solonoid terminals it cranks over just fine any ideas?
Thanks for the video! My switch tested good but it must have had a poor connection or something because it fired right up after reconnecting the switch. No corrosion to speak of (mower only has 6 hours on it) but hopefully it's fixed for now.
I have a gravely zero turn that only runs while key held it starts position as soon as I let off mower shuts down Only guess I have is key switch or flywheel key
This is a great video. Explains exactly how to test. Tested my solenoid, found the problem was before it. Took out key switch, boom! Problem solved. DIY is the best, thanks for helping a guy with a voltmeter and half a clue!
I have a kubota zero turn I replaced the solenoid thinking that was for sure my cranking issue, nope. I was over at my property today and pulled up your video, first one. Mine is a different switch but same 5 poles and I did what you did, and then ( battery to solenoid ) and no continuity. Went and got another and good to go. Thanks so much!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the no bs and to the point explanation. Well done 👍
Glad it was helpful, Thanks for watching
Thanks for your useful and simply explained video. I was making the mistake of thinking M was for the Motor. Your video put me straight. Thanks Jeff.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
thank you very much for this, i just tested mine and it is good. I have to find the short in the wire, and I learned from you !
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
To make sure the switch is completely OK, the G (Ground) and M (Magneto) should be closed (have continuity ) when the switch is off like the video shows, but equally important is they should be open (not have continuity) when the switch is in start or run position. Otherwise your engine won't run. This circuit works by grounding out the power to the plug so it won't spark/run when the key is off. Some old pull start engines either had a push button or switch that did this or a spring steel lever from ground that you pushed against the top of the plug. Simple and effective.
exactly my problem, checked as shown all good but still no spark. decided to test M to G in run position and still had a path from M to G. guess I need a new switch.
@@yaesu101eethere's no click, no cranks, no star, might need to check my switch also and do as you said.
Just need to figure out how to pull out the switch from the mower without breaking it... Murphy is close and I sense his presence. Great video and the letters on ignition match my 94 Craftsman Tractor. Thx so much fir posting!
haha! good luck!
Job is done. Working like a champ with replaced solenoid that my old neighbor had... No charge. Had the exact same part, serial number, patent number in his basement. Unbelievable! Installed another ignition switch to improve consistency... Santa showed up instead of Murphy. Snow Plow is ready!! Thanks!
Thanks for keeping it simple, and for not the usual ..and uh, and uh...!
Glad it helped
Very nice explanation of the switch and identifiers.
Thanks. Your video was actually useful and informative. I did every step with you, even though we're upside down here in Australia! Well done mate!
Nothing on mine Jeff. Jeff, mower Im messing with is a troybilt 26" high wheel mower. Does the switch have to be in any position to use pull rope? I don't get spark unless I disconnect switch ground wire at ground connection on control bracket. I did not get continuity in any position.
Brilliant Jeff. Thanks for your help. Very well explained .
Glad it helped
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Hi Jeff, tested switch and all ok.
Unfortunately I didn’t take note of where the coloured wires went back when I took the old one off ha ha ha. I have 3 connections on the mower one with red and brown together. One with 2 blues together and 1 single white wire. Now the ignition switch has 5 blades. M, B, L, S, G, I think the red and brown might go to b the battery. Where the others go I have no idea.
If you have any ideas where they might go I would love to hear from you.
Thanks again for the video, saved me a lot of time.
All the best
Duncan. Cornwall GB.
Useful information, but what happens if you have a switch that works sometimes and other times not. When I turn the key to my JD D 130 sometimes it does nothing for 4 or 5 turns of the key and then it finally starts. I thought it was the battery but seems to be either ignition switch or starter but not being consistent makes trouble shooting hit/ miss. It's 2 years old and less than 100 hours on it. Any trends???
could be the starter solenoid. Also check the battery ground wire to make sure it is grounded well.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's one of the two but it's so inconsistent makes it hard to trouble shoot. Really peeved to have this happen on a 2 year old mower. Probably go with replacing the cheapest thing first....like ignition switch, Thanks
How do u test a 7 prong ignition switch on a craftsman mower?
My switch says good, but want start? Any thoughts?
My cub cadet rzt42 mower keeps blowing the fuses after I jump started it so I thought maybe the switch went bad because of boosting it but it tested ok. Not sure why its blowing the fuse after running about 2 to 3 minutes while sitting with the blades off. Could it be the solenoid? Hmm
If it has a blade clutch to turn on blades on the bottom of the engine, check the wires down there
@jeffs little engine service, you check for continuity for run and start status however, you didn't check for a shorted switch. This can and has happened before enabling engine to crank over but not run. While you have the switch out I would recommend testing this also.
@lenchast How do you check for a shorted switch?
@@warriorprincess124 Did you appreciate the reply you received
Clear and concise video. Thanks!
In the off position I had no sound. Does that mean it’s a bad switch
Are all 5 prong switches the same? Price range seems to be $10 to $50 ! thx.
Thanks for the video found out for sure that my switch was bad.
Trying to take the ignition switch out of my stx38, but can’t seem to get it out. Any suggestions?
Still relevant & helpful!
The only thing the beeps is the magneto. Does that mean it’s bad? I’d think so.
Do you think you could advise me on an ignition switch question I have for my 1974 Gilson lawn tractor? I have the manual I got online for the wiring schematic but it doesn't show which wire goes to which terminal. It's the same switch as in your video.
Will all these interchange even if they have different numbers on them?
Thanks for response and the great video!
Thanks had the same with with no markings
mine is just singles wires that go to the ignition ,, i have a small case rider ,,ingersoll case yt112 i think it says ,,,anyways it doesnt have a plug just single wires ,,i dont have a clue where the wires go or to what prong ,, i screw up every ignition switch i try to wire up ....or smoke the coil ....
dang man that stinks, find a local small engine guy that knows wiring well
Very helpful thank you sir
Did the test on the ignition switch it passed. When I turn it to start it a slight click is herd from the starter solonoid but if I jump the solonoid terminals it cranks over just fine any ideas?
bad solenoid
Jeff's Little Engine Service it' new clicks in when I touch the terminals with a battery and even then no crank
What about a final check of mag open while on
the ground electrode was good
Merci pour les conseils, ma switch est fonctionnelle! 😁
AWESOME TY.
Thanks for the video! My switch tested good but it must have had a poor connection or something because it fired right up after reconnecting the switch. No corrosion to speak of (mower only has 6 hours on it) but hopefully it's fixed for now.
Glad it helped
In order for this video to be helpful you have to be able to read those letters on the contacts. I can't read mine. Thanks anyway.
sorry
Thank you!!!
Happy it helped
Show us : How you took the switch out..AND the tool you are using??!!
The tool he is using is a multimeter to test for current
Thanks! My key switch is good. On to some other testing.
Good vid
Your l terminal is actually your load
Thank You
You're welcome! thanks for watching
Thanks
I have a gravely zero turn that only runs while key held it starts position as soon as I let off mower shuts down
Only guess I have is key switch or flywheel key