I love you Diane. You are an inspiration. Clear and precise. I wish you were my aunt I will stick to you like a leech and learn ALL! But thank you so much for these videos, they will forever live. 😘😘😘😘
Thank you so much you’re so simple in your explanation... I have been watching so many videos of other’s , but yours are the best simple clear details explanation videos we can have.... thank you 😊
Ms. Diane. I soooo do love the way you did this tutorial. The annotations of the process by using numerical steps made it even more easier to understand. This was straight-to-the-point. And I found this tutorial to be the easiest to follow and understand out of all the videos I've watched so far on You Tube regarding this subject. Being able to follow the steps to drafting a tailored collar for a jacket or coat has always appeared to me, at least by looking at a textbook illustration of the process, to be complicated, but again, you have made this extremely easy to comprehend. Hat's off to you!!!
je vous remercie pour ce tuto que j'attendais il très explicatif à part la dernière étape mais je vais revoir la vidéo plusieurs fois pour comprendre le principe un grand merci à vous et à votre fille .
Diane it's about time you redid this video please. No need to rush it into 9 steps, you are my pattern making teacher and this your video is not your usual style. You always explain the why's but in this one, you seem to have rushed it
Thank you. I wish more information could have been given about the size of the stand on the collar. It would also be helpful if a toille had been made of the design that was demonstrated so that you could see how the design translates to the garment.
enfin je viens à l'instant même réussir le traçage du patron du col châle et son assemblage grâce à vos instructions que j'ai suivi à la lettre je vous embrasse trés trés fort.il me reste le col tailleur je vais m'appliquer pour comprendre la dernière étape et je vous rendrais la réponse merci encore.
Thank you so much for this video, your explanations are clear and easy to follow as always ! I just have a question, I would like to make a shirtdress with this collar and I would like to know what would be different . I know that the breakpoint would be higher, and the lappel a bit smaller. Other than this , what would you suggest ? Thanks again, and take care.
Hello Diane, Thank you so much for this very insightful tutorial ❤️ When I verified the measurements, my difference was zero. Does that mean I don't have to slash and spread? Or does it imply that I could have made an error somewhere?
At 10:50, you said you are cutting 3mm off around under collar, but is that line you are cutting is the 1 cm seam allowance (you mentioned this at 9:29)? Thank you very much, this is an excellent video and I am very excited to make nice clothes with it!
this is a lot more understanding than the winifred aldrich patterns because I'm trying to recreate christian diors bar suit from 1947, the only thing is now i want to know how to make a pleated circle skirt pattern because I haven't the faintest idea on how to do the math for creating the skirt, i know how to make a basic circle skirt pattern but its just adding in the pleats to the pattern that baffles me
Hi Charles, I look at the skirt, it could be a circular or a 1/2 circular because the pleat will add A LOT of volume and fabric at the bottom. it's hard to tell but the pleats look like + or - 1.5cm deep, I'm not sure if they are parallel or wider at the bottom. So here what I would do 1st, waist/1.5 to find out how many pleats(a). 2nd, waist X 3 to find the circumference with pleat (b). 3rd, do your circular and the bottom line, length. 4th, from one 1/4 line (grain line), indicate all your pleats at the waist, so 3cm for pleat & 1.5cm distance.5th, measure the bottom circumference then divide by how many pleats(a)= (c). 6th divide (c) by 3= (d), this is the depth of the pleat at the bottom. 7th, indicate all your pleats at the bottom, so (2xd) for pleat & (1xd) distance. let me know if this was clear.
Su canal es estupendo, si pusiera subtítulos en español sería grandioso, su audiencia crecería como espuma y nos beneficiaría a muchas personas. Ojala pueda leer mi comentario y tomarlo en cuenta. Gracias
Est-ce possible qu'un jour on trouvera sur votre chaîne un tuto sur le dessin du corsage (patron de base). Can you, please, make us a tutorial on how to draft a basic bodice. Thanks for answering this Q (what ever is the response). And thank you so much for ALL your videos and your GREAT work.
Plusieurs personne me demande de faire le corsage de base et je ne l'ai pas encore fait simplement parce que c'est très long. Je ne promet rien mais je garde l'idée en tête, peut être avec un PDF d'accompagnement.
Diane Deziel Merci infiniment pour votre réponse que j'attendais avec impatience. Bonne chance dans votre travail et bonne réussite pour votre nouveau site.
Hi Diane. If you had a high lapel and the point where the top of the lapel touches the fold line was above the bodice neckline, surely this would not contour back smoothly to the bodice neckline as it does in step no. 9 where that point is below the block neckline.
Hello Michael, step 9 is a line that you trace on the front, from the style line on lapel fold line to the original neck and shoulder point. When you have a higher collar notch, the style line goes straight or in the other direction, so you have to do a corner at the neck to go back to neck and shoulder point. like: i.pinimg.com/originals/66/41/47/664147bfad50192b5b50647aebb932e8.jpg
Diane Deziel thnx Diane, would love you to do a video of this draft. Also if and when you have time could you please do a mens jacket block with one and two piece sleeves. Love your work!
Nice tutorial Ma. Please i do have a question. Is this process d same with a square neckline and peaked/pointed lapel like d balmin jackets, ? Please which pattern drafting book do you recommend . Your teachings are so helpful.
Hello Nwoye, The technic is the same, only the style line is a little different, the angle in the neck line will come from the top pointe, continuing until about 1 cm or 3/8 past the fold line than change direction to go meet the neck point. I must do a video about it. Diane
Hi Diane i was wondering if you could make a tutorial about a slightly round notched neckline that goes down from neck to the break point on the fold line lapel. I understand that some times they'd have a dart under the lapel fold like to achieve the slightly round neckline. I'm not sure I'm explaining it right 😁😁 let me know if i need to further explain it please.
Hi Kimo Kim, I do understand, and yes I could make a video, but if you have a picture in mind, send it to me dianedeziel@gmail.com so I could do a good interpretation and cover all the detail. Diane
Thanks Diane. I have a question: Is there a reason why you apply the straight line for measurement C instead of the arc from A to B on the back bodice? I've followed the instruction and have sewn a sample coat with the collar and found out that the collar stands up instead of falling naturally and I wonder if it can be solved if I apply the arc measurement.. I've drafted a very wide collar (18.5 with 4cm stand). Or is my collar too wide for this technique?
Hello Oksoon Shin, The technique could be use for all size collar, I have done some really wide one and they fall very good, I would really like to see a picture of your plan. The tailor collar is to my opinion the hardest thing or technic to understand, because of all the implications, start in the front and go to the back, fold from nothing at breaking point, go up on the neck and roll on the back. About the straight line, that is in fact a diagonal line. The collar is not going to fall like that (pointy at center back), the technique is to give and average measure of the one where the collar is really going to fall. Because even if you want to measure with the curve you want, and where you want it, (and you could), it all depend on the thickness of the fabric and the shape of the person who wheres it. Thicker fabric needs more to curve so it makes the collar fall higher, and same thing for wider or thicker body. The collar should fall 90° at center back in a nice curve following the shape of the neck. I hope this could help and dont forget, If you want you could send me pictures of plan and sample at dianedeziel@gmail.com. Diane
Thank you for a very detailed tutorial. Q can we use this method for different shapes of Taylor collar foe example if I want to make round in the tip point of the collar or other shapes?
HI Rey, I Learn at school when I was younger, and I'm a fashion design teacher for over 25 years now, so it not a system it's simply the way I'm use to.
I get it so your stand collar was 2.5cm so you doubled it so you measured 5cm from the actually measurement am I right so u marked 5cm then measured 9 cm etc
![[EASIEST METHOD] How to draft & sew notch collar | Make your own lapel collar easily](/img/n.gif)
Best technique I’ve seen for lapel. Like always your ways are crisp, clean, calm, clarifying, conducive. Thank you for the rescue once again 😬😇
I love you Diane. You are an inspiration. Clear and precise. I wish you were my aunt I will stick to you like a leech and learn ALL! But thank you so much for these videos, they will forever live. 😘😘😘😘
The best tutorials online I've seen yet. 💜 Thank you Diane!!!
thanks that means a lot
Handsdown the best page For patternmaking, love everything you do. ❤️
I second this sentiment. And not just patternmaking!
Exactly !I love her!!
ua-cam.com/channels/xDJftchbTSSzyXt8W7Rpkg.htmlvideos
This channel is incredible. I am ordering pattern making supplies now. The depth and details you put into your tutorials are mesmerizing.
Thank you so much you’re so simple in your explanation... I have been watching so many videos of other’s , but yours are the best simple clear details explanation videos we can have.... thank you 😊
Ms. Diane. I soooo do love the way you did this tutorial. The annotations of the process by using numerical steps made it even more easier to understand. This was straight-to-the-point. And I found this tutorial to be the easiest to follow and understand out of all the videos I've watched so far on You Tube regarding this subject. Being able to follow the steps to drafting a tailored collar for a jacket or coat has always appeared to me, at least by looking at a textbook illustration of the process, to be complicated, but again, you have made this extremely easy to comprehend. Hat's off to you!!!
Best instruction I could find! I wish I could come to you for classes🥰🥰
This is owsome. I can go to the shop with ease. A million thanks is not enough. I wanted to give more than a hundred like.thanks
Diane grazie 1000 per i tuoi video! Sei superbrava!!!!
Thanks for sharing. You are the first one whom I can understand how to do the collar. Can you make a video how to assemble the collar?
So simple yet clear. Thank you.
Thank you, in a book that I own drafting a collar seems so complicated 😅 you make it easy to follow ❤️
Thanks for sharing such professional, insider tips.
Thank u, u're knowledge is very helpful and your explanation is very clear surely I appreciate your help.
je vous remercie pour ce tuto que j'attendais il très explicatif à part la dernière étape mais je vais revoir la vidéo plusieurs fois pour comprendre le principe un grand merci à vous et à votre fille .
I will definitely try this. Your teaching methods are so good. I love them. Wonderful Explaination. 😆
This is extremely helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
WOW. .! this is better than school, Thank You So Much.👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much! Very professional and informative tutorial!
You are nice, talented and a very pleasent sryle of teaching, thank you
كنت اعتقد التفصيل صعب انت سهلتي الموضوع .شكرا
I thought making pattern is defficult , you make it so easy .thanks
You are so clever!!! I love your capablility. 🍸💐
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 🙏🙏🙏❤
Diane it's about time you redid this video please. No need to rush it into 9 steps, you are my pattern making teacher and this your video is not your usual style. You always explain the why's but in this one, you seem to have rushed it
These videos are so detailed and informative! I love your content! I hope I know as much as you do about patterns someday!
انت رائعة لقد اسعدتني
Non comprendo la tua lingua ma nella chiarezza delle spiegazioni sei bravissima mille grazie sei unica 👍👍👍
Such a simple and clear explanation, thank you!
This is extremely helpful.Thank you teacher
Very bright yellow color, like sun light.
Thank you. I wish more information could have been given about the size of the stand on the collar. It would also be helpful if a toille had been made of the design that was demonstrated so that you could see how the design translates to the garment.
DIANE, THIS IS AN EXCELLENT TUTORIAL ON THE TAILORED COLLAR PATTERN DRAFTING. PLEASE DO SOME DIFFERENT VARIATIONS ON CUFF DESIGNS. THANK YOU.
What do you mean by different cuff design ( is it for the tailor sleeve like real opening)
send me picture at dianedeziel@gmail.com
perfect tutorial. thank you ma'am
very nice thank u for sharing beautifully
I love your content
enfin je viens à l'instant même réussir le traçage du patron du col châle et son assemblage grâce à vos instructions que j'ai suivi à la lettre je vous embrasse trés trés fort.il me reste le col tailleur je vais m'appliquer pour comprendre la dernière étape et je vous rendrais la réponse merci encore.
Excellent explanation, thank you for sharing this informative video. Love ❤️ from India.
thank you mam, you make my day so easily ✨✨🥳🥳🥳
Very Good Tutorial mom, greetings one needle....
Thank you, I really like it and hope to use it soon.
Very detailed tutorial, can you please make a video on how to makw a suit jacket from start to finish?
Your work forced me to subscribe.
you are fabulous!
my favorite one in our discipline 🙏😊🇲🇦
Very nice thank you for your time
Really good u r so good in detailing.nice method of explaining
Thank you so much for this video, your explanations are clear and easy to follow as always !
I just have a question, I would like to make a shirtdress with this collar and I would like to know what would be different . I know that the breakpoint would be higher, and the lappel a bit smaller. Other than this , what would you suggest ?
Thanks again, and take care.
Excellent detail!!! Thank you!
Verry goooood
Okey👍
This is very good but I lost it the moment she hand traced the lapel😹😹😹
nice , good pattern
Gracias por su amable colaboración para compartir , maravilloso !!
Thank you 😇
Amazing.
Thank you very much.
Nice way to make a collar
thank you it is perfect steps
merci beaucoup pour tout ce que vous donnez..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
muchisimas gracias por enseñar . sus conosimientos👍👍👍💖
Belle robe , merci pour le tuto
Thank you very much ❤
Super helpful! ♥️♥️♥️
👍👍👌👌
Hello Diane,
Thank you so much for this very insightful tutorial ❤️
When I verified the measurements, my difference was zero. Does that mean I don't have to slash and spread? Or does it imply that I could have made an error somewhere?
At 10:50, you said you are cutting 3mm off around under collar, but is that line you are cutting is the 1 cm seam allowance (you mentioned this at 9:29)? Thank you very much, this is an excellent video and I am very excited to make nice clothes with it!
so nice teacher thanks
this is a lot more understanding than the winifred aldrich patterns because I'm trying to recreate christian diors bar suit from 1947, the only thing is now i want to know how to make a pleated circle skirt pattern because I haven't the faintest idea on how to do the math for creating the skirt, i know how to make a basic circle skirt pattern but its just adding in the pleats to the pattern that baffles me
Hi Charles, I look at the skirt, it could be a circular or a 1/2 circular because the pleat will add A LOT of volume and fabric at the bottom. it's hard to tell but the pleats look like + or - 1.5cm deep, I'm not sure if they are parallel or wider at the bottom. So here what I would do 1st, waist/1.5 to find out how many pleats(a). 2nd, waist X 3 to find the circumference with pleat (b). 3rd, do your circular and the bottom line, length. 4th, from one 1/4 line (grain line), indicate all your pleats at the waist, so 3cm for pleat & 1.5cm distance.5th, measure the bottom circumference then divide by how many pleats(a)= (c). 6th divide (c) by 3= (d), this is the depth of the pleat at the bottom. 7th, indicate all your pleats at the bottom, so (2xd) for pleat & (1xd) distance. let me know if this was clear.
Su canal es estupendo, si pusiera subtítulos en español sería grandioso, su audiencia crecería como espuma y nos beneficiaría a muchas personas. Ojala pueda leer mi comentario y tomarlo en cuenta. Gracias
Thank you so much! So much easier to follow than my pattern-making book! Does this work for a double-breasted jacket as well?
Yes it does
#1 overlap will be the double-breast
Diane
your videos has help me allot
le seul tutoriel sur youtube qui montre comment mais pourquoi le segment AB sur le dos n'est pas rond
You are the bestest
Thanks the first I understand it.
Very good Sir Ji
Hi , i love you so much, you are the best teacher, but i have a question?
What is your methode that you teach? Thank you 😘😘😘😘😘
Diane, please post a nice tutorial about the drafting and sewing of men's shirt collar :-) please please please :-)
Est-ce possible qu'un jour on trouvera sur votre chaîne un tuto sur le dessin du corsage (patron de base).
Can you, please, make us a tutorial on how to draft a basic bodice.
Thanks for answering this Q (what ever is the response).
And thank you so much for ALL your videos and your GREAT work.
Plusieurs personne me demande de faire le corsage de base et je ne l'ai pas encore fait simplement parce que c'est très long. Je ne promet rien mais je garde l'idée en tête, peut être avec un PDF d'accompagnement.
Diane Deziel Merci infiniment pour votre réponse que j'attendais avec impatience.
Bonne chance dans votre travail et bonne réussite pour votre nouveau site.
Diane Deziel Diane how nice that you responded in French! I’m sure Sara Sara appreciated that!
Hi Diane. If you had a high lapel and the point where the top of the lapel touches the fold line was above the bodice neckline, surely this would not contour back smoothly to the bodice neckline as it does in step no. 9 where that point is below the block neckline.
Hello Michael, step 9 is a line that you trace on the front, from the style line on lapel fold line to the original neck and shoulder point.
When you have a higher collar notch, the style line goes straight or in the other direction, so you have to do a corner at the neck to go back to neck and shoulder point. like:
i.pinimg.com/originals/66/41/47/664147bfad50192b5b50647aebb932e8.jpg
Diane Deziel thnx Diane, would love you to do a video of this draft. Also if and when you have time could you please do a mens jacket block with one and two piece sleeves. Love your work!
Hi Michael, this is a good idea, for now here is the 2 pieces sleeve ua-cam.com/video/D6FJNVVLC_A/v-deo.html
Diane Deziel thnx ☺
Diane Deziel hi Diane. The tailored collar draft you sent me. Is there instructions for that draft. Thnx.
Merci madame
Thank you
This is very carefull. thanks so much!
Nice tutorial Ma. Please i do have a question. Is this process d same with a square neckline and peaked/pointed lapel like d balmin jackets, ? Please which pattern drafting book do you recommend . Your teachings are so helpful.
Hello Nwoye,
The technic is the same, only the style line is a little different, the angle in the neck line will come from the top pointe, continuing until about 1 cm or 3/8 past the fold line than change direction to go meet the neck point.
I must do a video about it.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you Ma.
@@DianeDezieltoolfully yes please Diane, i asked for this video some time ago. Your videos are the best.
Muita boa explicação ❤!!
At 11:41, did you add a seam allowance to the bodice and lapel?
You are amazing!
Venezuela. Thank
شكرا جزيلاً
Is this block adopted from Winifred Aldrich ?
thnx mam I'm going to follow u👌👌👌👌😘😘😘
I saw good graphics.
I am doing a lot of research as a womenswear pattern.
Thank you.
روعه
Hi Diane i was wondering if you could make a tutorial about a slightly round notched neckline that goes down from neck to the break point on the fold line lapel. I understand that some times they'd have a dart under the lapel fold like to achieve the slightly round neckline. I'm not sure I'm explaining it right 😁😁 let me know if i need to further explain it please.
Hi Kimo Kim, I do understand, and yes I could make a video, but if you have a picture in mind, send it to me dianedeziel@gmail.com so I could do a good interpretation and cover all the detail. Diane
Diane Deziel 😀😀 thank you so much i will send you the photos over the weekend.
thank you that is good tutorial video
Thanks Diane. I have a question: Is there a reason why you apply the straight line for measurement C instead of the arc from A to B on the back bodice? I've followed the instruction and have sewn a sample coat with the collar and found out that the collar stands up instead of falling naturally and I wonder if it can be solved if I apply the arc measurement.. I've drafted a very wide collar (18.5 with 4cm stand). Or is my collar too wide for this technique?
Hello Oksoon Shin,
The technique could be use for all size collar, I have done some really wide one and they fall very good, I would really like to see a picture of your plan. The tailor collar is to my opinion the hardest thing or technic to understand, because of all the implications, start in the front and go to the back, fold from nothing at breaking point, go up on the neck and roll on the back.
About the straight line, that is in fact a diagonal line. The collar is not going to fall like that (pointy at center back), the technique is to give and average measure of the one where the collar is really going to fall. Because even if you want to measure with the curve you want, and where you want it, (and you could), it all depend on the thickness of the fabric and the shape of the person who wheres it. Thicker fabric needs more to curve so it makes the collar fall higher, and same thing for wider or thicker body.
The collar should fall 90° at center back in a nice curve following the shape of the neck.
I hope this could help and dont forget, If you want you could send me pictures of plan and sample at dianedeziel@gmail.com.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you so much. Please check your e-mail. Have a nice weekend :)
Thank you for a very detailed tutorial. Q can we use this method for different shapes of Taylor collar foe example if I want to make round in the tip point of the collar or other shapes?
Yes, absolutly, all style! The only difference possible is to skip #1 if your jacket doesn't have overlap like a zipper closure.
tres gentille. merci
Thanks
LOVE!!!!!!
can I ask you which system you are using?
greetings!
HI Rey,
I Learn at school when I was younger, and I'm a fashion design teacher for over 25 years now, so it not a system it's simply the way I'm use to.
great system! so clear! thank you for your answer :)
I'm confused with the verification of the fall are u adding 5cm to a , b and c or 2.5?
I get it so your stand collar was 2.5cm so you doubled it so you measured 5cm from the actually measurement am I right so u marked 5cm then measured 9 cm etc