Alumi UV vs China Brand UV Resin
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2018
- I normally use Alumi UV to clear coat but, I bought a less expensive brand of UV cure resin just to see if there would be a difference. My hope was that the new one would set harder or faster or glossier. Check out the results of the testing. www.amazon.com/shop/engineere...
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Thank you! I'm looking into what I need to make little pen rests from resin but I didn't want to get something really expensive if I don't have to. An actual test on this brand is really useful!
Another incredibly useful and informative video. Thanks again for sharing and taking the time to do the experiment!
thank you for your comments...am glad you found the information useful. I have a source for uv clear by the gallon that is US based and half the price of the Chinese brand.
when I test it I'll share the results.
Howdy, any update on this new stuff? Have you fished any toothy critters with any of the UV products? I use a 2 part epoxy on jigs for kings, snapper, etc, and every fish seem to chip the jig, I'd be curious how a UV resin holds up.
Can you share the results and links for the US based less costly UV resin? Taking out the wait-time for delivery would be a big plus! Great vid!
@@Drundel
UV resin is just so hard that it tends to be brittle. Nothing is bullet proof. ..
The new stuff is a bit disappointing, it takes much longer to cure and not glossy.
Great test and thanks for sharing!! I have been a long time user of the AlumiUV product. To know that there is a comparable out on the mark is reassuring. I will keep to the use of AlumiUV as it is for me to purchase and is a one day ship. Thanks again for sharing!! PS - really enjoy your channel!!
thanks so much for the encouragement.
Thank you for doing and sharing this. Very informative
Hi Franco, Something you might want to try... When filling voids in a casting I apply the uv-resin and cover the area with clear cellophane tape. The tape flattens the resin, spreads it smoothly over the damaged area and doesn't interfere with the curing. Very often, the repair is all but invisible and sanding isn't required. Cellophane tape also makes a good "dam" to keep resin confined when fairing one part to another - I use this approach when I want to build up a bib to body fillet (for streamlining and support) on a deep diving lure. Cheers!
Excellent tip. Thanks.
Used the less expensive brand yesterday for sabiki rigs. I made some UV shrimp flies with uv thread wrapped heads which once finished looked way more clean & professional than simply painting heads not to mention far far more durable. Use it also for assist hooks (using spade hks) which also yields a very smooth lower profile finish. Ive had the bottle for over a yr & Im pleased to say it sets right up very quickly (seconds) when Im making whatever. Thx for the eye sticker upgrade idea!
Thank you very much. I’ve had issues with the clear coat. I think some of my issues are a result of improper tooling or lack of tooling. I’ve have been using Alumi clear cast. I find the mix to be to thick and definitely needs to be turned after application. I’ve been very interested in the UV products. Your channel has been very informative.
Glad it helped
good video. ease of availability and time is always a factor to me. I much prefer when something is available locally. i'll pay more just because I know it's there when I need it. but it's good to know that it's just as good basically.
This was immensely helpful, thank you. In Australia at the moment, I can get the Chinese brand for under $30 AU. I can’t get Alumi stock and when I do, it works out $50 AU.
Glad it helped!
This is a good unbiased comparison between the two , a test similar to the one done by alumi uv (throwing a coated lure on cement multiple times) would have been cool to see, perhaps even how well it holds up to a hammer:) Im curious how well this will do in an "hardness" test compared to a two part epoxy, as alumi uv has a shore d hardness of 75-80, which is almost the same as a decent epoxy(epoxy being slightly less).
I appreciate the work you have done on all the clear coat videos. I will go with aluma vs the China brand. Found one of those mini fridges with the glass door gutting it and going to use it as my chamber.
Glad to help...one thing you should know. I understand that Alumilite is having some really bad issue with their latest UV resin formulation. You should check into whether they have solved the problem. Best of luck.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the heads up ! Question would the amazon SHPODA 33ft LED UV Black Light Strip Kit,600 Units UV Lamp Beads,385nm-400nm,12V Flexible Blacklight Fixtures,10M LED Ribbon work for a setup they have 24 and 60 watt versions I would go for the 60.
@@EngineeredAngler I just talked to them on the Phone. All bad product has been removed from shelves and the web. It should be in by Friday and QC on Monday . If all good it will be back next week .
Strip lights will work...you just have to concentrate them as close together as you can. The watt rating is a bit deceptive since its a sum of lots of low output LED's. To get the watt density the resin needs to harden fully and quickly you'll need to avoid the strips being spread out. Go with the higher wattage.
Great video sir. Thank you
I agree with you it's nice to know you can get it in just a couple of days. I was hoping that this different UV would have some different characteristic that maybe I could use. it's nice to have varied materials you can work with. by the way I also found a hookup for UV clear by the gallon it ain't cheap. but if you figure it by the gram it actually is much cheaper.
Engineered Angler did your research with that other brand ever go anywhere? If you're talking about Solarez, I have some experience with a few of their products. Most of it works very well, but stinks to high heaven. They have a new finish coat called I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer that is about half the price of the ALUMA-UV, in the larger size. I'd like to know what you've been doing with UV stuff. I'm in Florida as well.
Thank you for making this. very helpful
Glad you found it helpful.
Thank you. Very informative.
Love the channel. My question is on color. The black showed the gloss nicely, but it would have been nice if you masked off a white strip, so it would show a yellow cast, of if both were water white. You could also leave out in sunlight for a month to see how they yellow.
Thanks for the video!
You should check out this video
ua-cam.com/video/7qVhhZyKgM0/v-deo.html
Very useful, Thank you so much!!!
Thank you very much!
Hi What kind of curing lamps do you use? that flood light you have is it 395nm or 365nm? how much watts are the lamps and flood lights?looking to purchase some lights or lamps, please give me your recommendation.
Thank you so much for this comparison
No worries!
it was good comparisson ! no regret subbing ur channel!
Also would have liked sunlight exposure and moisture test but great job so far do it with white paint and see if it yellows
hung a lure from my rearview merror all summer. ..no yellowing.
i always wondered that thank you
Happy to help!
Off topic question, I build two part urethane lures (smooth cast resin) do you recommend a glue or epoxy, for joining the urethane?
I would be reluctant to use one-part adhesives...I would either use a two part resin or a two part urethane adhesive....
I like QuaQua resin. Its clear hardens fast. Just keep at room temp and out of sun light.
Nice one buddy ... not into fishing tried it bought all the gear had a great fisherman to fish with but i caught nothing for 6 months 😂. , i did keep fish for a long time mind 👍.
Thanks for the review i am going to get some to play with, different purpose but your video was very helpful .
Thanks
That's the way fishing is, it either hooks you or not, ( pun intended ).
Happy you got something out of it.
May I ask what you use the UV resin for is it as a final clear coat I use the Chinese brand on my Flies and love it I just got into painting my own baits and am trying to find a good clear coat. Thank you very much for your help.
I use it for a clear coat, as glue, as filler...anything you can imagine it can do. It's a really handy product.
Here's a play list of videos that might help,
Clear Coating: ua-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucSE3Q_3aAPxl48GCyqD6TDn.html
Wonderful video. Thank you.
Thank you
So was that water based poly you sprayed on first? does it really improve the resin bond? I want to make a turning unit for curing 2 part resin i use so i don't end up with runs etc... thanks
Yes it is Minwax water-based poly acrylic. I found it to be an excellent mid coat that pretty much eliminates those nasty fish eyes and and wavy finishes of the resin.
Glad I found this. I just made a UV curing chamber for my lures and wanted to try this on my next ones. Alumi-UV is unavailable for at least two months because of lack of some chemical according to them. The Chinese brand that you used is available now on Amazon at even less cost than you payed for it at the time of this video over a year ago. I'm wondering if Alumilite might actually get the same stuff from China and repackage it and sell it for more here and it's not available right now because of some reason (tariffs?).
Anyway, because of this video I got a bottle with 1 day shipping.... Thanks.
Cool...thanks for watching. I think you'll be happy with the Chinese UV Resin.
Very interesting! Great information, thank you - Subed!
Thank you. ..
I truly enjoy your videos. They are informative and your down to earth style of communicating is appreciated. I have a question concerning using Minwax polyacrylic as a mid-coat and applying it via an airbrush. Have you had any issues with using your airbrush to do this?
No issues...it works well but you do have to make an extra effort to clean the gun after. Cheers.
@@EngineeredAngler When mid-coating a lure with an airbrush what percent water to polycrylic do you recommend?
15 percent water
Very good Video
I have one question
How I clean my brush after paint UV resin coat ?
You don't have to clean it if you store it in a dark place I made a small envelope from aluminum foil and keep the brush in it. You can just reuse the same brush.
Gracias. Eres el artista de referencia en fabricación de señuelos artesanales y en resinado.
Desde que descubrí tu canal he resinado señuelos con UV Resin Hard con resultados muy buenos.
Curo la resina con luz solar, en 3 h se pueden tocar sin dejar huellas, a las 8 h perfectos y en 24 h para utilizar pescando.
Ahora he intentado curar con tiras led de AE, el resultado es desastroso. No creo que tengan la potencia que dicen los chinos.
Seguiré buscando un led de potencia adecuada.
Saludos
FELIZ NAVIDAD.
Feliz Navidad y que tengas suerte con la resina
I bought and used the Chinese resin my lures came out bloche i brushed it on ..did i not get it thick enough on lures...
Hi-wondering about the appropriate wave length for curing the UV from China? Thank you.
Any thing between 365nm to 395nm seems too work well.
Thanks
It would be more useful to place varying weights on top of the divider to measure actual resistance. Another good test would be to measure if there is a difference in yellowing over time.
Tom Mason
you're right...lots more to try...this is just an intro.
Quick question sir. I use aluma and and having trouble with the second coat. Wether the first coat is fully cured or not I keep getting a spotty finish on the second. It seems as though there are some spots it’s not sticking to no matter how long I have it on the turner before curing. If you have any tips they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For the second coat you have to thoroughly clean the lure with alcohol at the very least. But its best to lightly scuff up the surface with a very fine sandpaper or steel wool and then clean with alcohol. good luck
@@EngineeredAngler thank you sir!!
Hey there! Thanks for the video. Have you tested the minimum amount of time they need to set? Does one set quicker than the other? Thx in advance :)
I haven't seen any difference...
Hi ive been watching your videos on chrome to gold thanks! So i want to paint all my old hotshots light gold (out of production) but i think im going to settle for buying new chrome hotshots and using alumilite translucent yellow dye with either one of theese epoxies. My questions are will the dye mix with the Chinese version or should i stick to alumilite uv? Also can i use my fly tying uv light to cure theese epoxies? Its a loon infiniti light.
Yes, the dye works fine with the Chinese UV resin. You can try to set the resin with your flashlight, but I think you'll need to leave it out in the sun for a while to get a full cure.
@@EngineeredAngler copy maybe ill buy one of those fingernail lights since im living in ak where the winters are cold and dark. Thank you sir!
Franco, I have some of the Chinese UV-cure resin and find that it smells fairly strong. Scent wise, how does the Alumi-UV brand compare? Thanks!
About the same.
Thank You for the great Video I like to seal a pipe do you think the heat of the pipe will make some dangerous or healthy problems or melt the UV?
I assume you mean a smoking pipe...if the outside of the pipe stays cool enough to touch there shouldn't be any problem, assuming you're only finishing the outside of the pipe.
Thank you for your quick answer. Yeah the outside gets warm but you can touch it with your hands. Then this shouldn’t be a problem right
This UV resin has been used in dentistry for a long time and they continue to use it for fillings and temporary repairs of teeth. And it takes a lot of heat for it to begin to put off Vapors. What is it that you would normally use on a smoking pipe, some kind of natural oil?
Yes we are using Shelack or Danish oil for finish
I have a question for you, maybe someone just asked for it, I've just made an uv box for cure uv resin, but after 20 minutes the resin was hard but sticky.
I use 2 30w led uv lights, that are probably 395-405nm, could be this the problem?
Well your problem is most likely the distance the lure is from the lights. The farther the distance the more wattage you need and it goes up exponentially. If the lure is more than a couple of inches away then you will need to up the wattage or leave it in for much longer. 60 Watts is not that much power...I would leave it in the chamber for 45 min. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler tomorrow I will make some tests, a guy just told me that if he leaves the lire too much in the chamber it become sticky, so I must make some scientific experiments😎
@@EngineeredAngler changed the light to 365 nm and problem solved, thank you very much and tight lines 🎣
I used the China UV brand for years and bought them from AliExpress with free shipping. 200g at US$15… Never need to buy expensive UV resin brand again . Thanks for sharing!
Thank you.
I know...right.? On top the the price difference the china brand has a higher gloss finish.
Engineered Angler … you’ve discovered the “secret “ … LOLs👍
I have one question....how long does it take to cure?
My Chinese one cures tacky. Should I try curing for longer?
Can you exhale to pop bubbles on the solar cure? My home made turner is pretty crude so for one-offs a quick sun cure to the non sag point would be great. I've used the original Solarez for surfboard dings and it sets up fast in the sun. In the 70s I used Envirotex for wood clocks and tables, they sold a bubble buster spray but for small stuff I'd just exhale on it - they said the carbon dioxide is what did it. Some painted seashell necklaces are still hanging around from 1974, at least the old Envirotex does brown out over time.
Yeah man solarez was a lifesaver back in the late 70s surfing Southern Mexico when you put a big ol ding in your board. I actually don't like it much for lures but it will work. And yeah you certainly can use on exhale on the lure to get rid of those small bubbles, that's what I do. For me the Turner is more to inhibit sag. I think you will find the epoxy based UV cured resins are easier to work with and give you a more smooth and glossy finish. Thanks for watching.
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you for the response, excellent information for many different projects. I use the turner for two part applications as you need to let them rotate for at least 4-5 hours to reach the no sag stage. The old ding stuff goes off with a few minutes of sun exposure so if the Chinese UV stuff would gel that fast it would definitely be the way to go. I'll order some and give it a try. I fished the Brazilian Amazon last month (December) with a buddy from a Colombia trip in March and he was winging it into the trees quite a bit. We fish Colombia again in a few weeks so I did him a one off banana lure complete with Chiquita sticker and sparkly epoxy. A quick coating alternative for those kind of things could be a big help.
Hello. I have one question. I buyed the China uv clear. The problem is, after one day the lure is still sticky. And advice??
Your lights are probably not the right kind or you have the lure to far from the light.
@@EngineeredAngler I have the same product like in your video. I just use some USB uv lights. Maybe they are not strong enough??
I am sort of new to the lure building hobby. I bought the east coast resin for the top finish, would you recommend the UV clear over the east coast resin? A comparison between the two would be very interesting.
The differences between them are so stark that a side -by-side comparison wouldn't really yield much. But, I can tell you this, UV Cure Resin is more expensive, more complicated to cure, much faster to cure, water clear, sets harder (more brittle), If I had to choose between them I would go with UV Cure. For someone just starting out I would recommend two part resin because of its ease of use, lower price, and (when it goes on perfect) has the most brilliant gloss. keep watching...more to come.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you for such a fast reply. As always, I have learned very much from watching your videos, and I am looking forward to your next video.
Bonjour, excuser moi je suis francais et je ne comprend pas vos paroles selon vous quel resine uv est la mieux?
Merci
Ma recommandation: www.amazon.com/Resin-Ultraviolet-Curing-Sunlight-Activated/dp/B072N2VF4H?th=1
Great comparison! Is there a way to make even the chinese Resin a bit thinner by warming it up or so?
Actually you can thin it pretty effectively with denatured alcohol. Thank you for the comment and question.
@@EngineeredAngler Cool. Thanks mate!
hi.can you give an opinion on how to make uv resin concentrate?
Sorry...can't help.
Very helpful. Saved some $$$
Glad it helped!
What about Solarez? I have never seen it used for a clear coat. Their website claims it as a use and the price is competitive.
I have used it...it's polyester resin and not epoxy. That means it's a little less tough tends to crack and scratch really easy. Plus has a very strong odor when you're applying it. I don't recommend using it for the lures. I've used it to repair my surfboard for decades ok for a quick field fix . Thanks for the question
im interested in playing with resin, i saw the china brand you used on ebay, they said in the listing it is non toxic, do you believe this to be true?
Yeah. ...I do. That said I'm not sure what kind of controls the have in China. This kind of resin has been used in dentistry for decades.
What would cause my alumni literally uv to be tacky after been out curingnin sunlight of curing box
Well you could have a bad batch of resin, but curing in the Sun is a bit of a gamble. Complete cure is kind of tough to get in the sun you've got to turn it around and the sun has to be bright unfiltered, no shade at all, and out long enough to cure the resin. I stick to the controled environment of the curing box.
Love the video! Where did you get the long UV bulbs? I can't find them online
Search for,. Uv bulb G23 base 9w
Hello. What types of lamps do you use exactly? 395 nm? And how many watt?
72 total watts.
@@EngineeredAngler I have a hardening problem with exactly this China Brand (my first type of UV coat). I Have 40 Watt LED Lamps. But it won't be really hard after 40 Minutes. It needs extra sunlight (I'm living on the Canary Islands) to cure completely. So I'm asking if my 395 nm lamps are not the correct wave length.
The 395nm should work fine. The third factor after Watts and wavelength is watt density. That just means how close you can get your lure to the lamp. LED lams lose power with distance very easily. Your lure should be no more than a couple of inches, 4-5 cm from the lamps for best results. Good luck.
I try to cure the Chinese resin under 2 uv lamp 18 w * 2 = 36 w for 10 minutes but it not come dry ?
I have 72 watts and it takes at least 30 minutes for mine to dry hard.
Hi there, do you remember if there's a difference in smell? I tried the Chinese and it has a strong odor so I'm trying to find out if it's safe but there's no info online. I know Alumi UV is non-toxic but I don't live in the US so it's not easy to get a bottle. Anybody knows what the Chinese is made of?
The formulation of the product can't vary too much just because of the nature of the chemistry. They both have an odor. This type product has been used in dentistry for decades so it must have a very low toxicity. But, the Chinese brands might not be well regulated. Wear gloves and work in a ventilated space. Cheers
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks so much! :)
What is the device at 8:18??? looking pro and awesome !
ua-cam.com/video/lOQOejfM3Vk/v-deo.html
Hi just wondering if you can cure the Chinese resin in sunlight and how long would it take to cure cheers
Yes...I tried it and it works. ..expect it to take 2 to three times longer and if there are clouds, all bets are off.
Engineered Angler thanks
Do you put 1 or 2 coats on your lures? thank you
I usually put two top coats...unless I'm in a hurry for one of my videos 😄
@@EngineeredAngler thank you
Do any of them have a sticky finish or a strong smell?
Milly James
I know both of these UV clear setup almost glass hard. if you're experiencing a tacky finish and strong smell you're probably using the wrong kind of light for the resin. if you purchased a resin that was designed for industrial circuit board coatings you might have to get a high-powered UV light. you should check with the manufacturer for their suggestions for lights.
Yea I got a sticky surface
The resin always pulls away from the nose and shoulder of my wood cranks. How do I fix this?
Because of the strong surface tension of resin it will pull away from very small radius turns in other words sharp edges. You can try softening those curves and edges making them less Sharp. Otherwise you may have some other issues. Does it tend to pull away from anywhere else does it form fish eyes or wavy areas? You should first try sanding those edges down a little and use a mid coat like polycrylic by Minwax. Good luck. if you want to, you can send me some photos and I might be able to help more.
Thankyou! That makes so much sense now! Yeah its always on the sharp edges
@@EngineeredAngler how do i send pics on UA-cam?
You can sed them through Facebook messages or just email the to Engineeredangler@gmail.com
Hi, Franco. Based on your helpful response yesterday (04-19-2022) to my question about clear-coat viscosity, I'm seriously considering a switch to UV-cured epoxies. That led me to watch the excellent brand comparison in this video.
I have NOTHING against international trade and-like all of us-buy Chinese products virtually every day. But when there's a good domestically produced alternative, I choose that, even if I have to pay a bit more.
Although I have no stake whatsoever in the company, I think it's important to point out that Alumilite UV is produced in Grayling, Michigan, by a U.S.-owned corporation that employs U.S. workers. Liu Jinkun in Henan, Province, China (yes, I looked it up) is none of those things. Moreover, the amount of carbon fuel burned in mailing the Alumilite product within the United States is miniscule compared to the carbon pollution generated in shipping the Liu Jinkun resin overseas to U.S. customers. (Yes, I want to halt climate change so that my granddaughter can have the kind of saltwater fishing I have enjoyed in my lifetime.)
I think it also bears mention that Alumilite is as close as a phone call or email away, and its staff has helped me with many questions over the years. In addition, Alumilite has posted a LOT of good lure-making and general epoxy videos on UA-cam. Again, Liu Jinkun doesn't do any of these things.
Since your thorough testing revealed little, if any difference, between the PERFORMANCE of these two formulations, I'll pay the extra $5 or so for the Alumilite. (By the way, I use plenty of other brands, as well.) Keep up the great work, Chris
I think you are thoughtful in your approach, and I applaud you. The Alumilite products are of good quality. Good luck, and thank you.
Can u link or name the UV light u have plz. To be clear the uv light you first did eyes with not that awesome rotational light .
The link is in the video description...
Cheaper to buy the light from AliExpress also. I purchased a 30 watt light. It is used in nail salons. Many different styles and wattages to choose from.
ok
Engineered Angler unless I’m dumb or blind I don’t see the link!
Just to confirm I’m asking about the “UV Light” you have not the resin!!!
Gunpla Adolph University of Gundam/School of Gunpla he does have a link in the description I didn’t list one myself other than to say you can get the UV light through AliExpress.com. To see the you tubers description click the upside down triangle to open the drop down description, you will find the link.
I like to know if laser print uv resin can be used with a normale uv light.
I think it can but before I buy and try it i like to know if someone tried it already.
It would be cheaper I think.
Anybody tried that?
I have not tried it. But there's really no such thing as normal UV light. The resin will have a sensitivity to some wavelength or range of wavelengths find that out from the manufacturer that should be a pretty good indication, if the light you're going to buy will work. Good luck.
@@EngineeredAngler I ment more like if it will work with the same uv light you are using instead of a laser what is in those machines.
I already have the same uv lights that you are using.
I work allot with different resin also uv resin from aliexpress.
I will try to contact them to see if it is possible without using a laser.
@@TheWitchy1975 Right...I figured as much. The lights I use are 365 nm wavelength....it might work but often more industrial stuff needs a shorter wavelength. I would still ask the manufacturer before I spent any money....if you get it figured out let us know. Thanks
What is the reason for the midcoat and is it necessary
Well I use the mid coat as a surface preparation to be sure I get a good finish on my clear coat. It's not really necessary, I have gotten good results without it. But I find I get a much more consistently perfect finish on my clear coats when I use it.
@@EngineeredAngler in what way is it improved
@@EngineeredAngler what is it you use for the midcoat and how do you apply it?
@@EngineeredAngler do you wear any PPE whem working with the uv resin clear? I just got mine and it has quite a smell. I wear an n95 when painting and wondered if i should wear that or somehing stronger with the uv resin
Let me answer all three of your questions:
1) The mid coat acts as a primer and protector of the painted surface. It allows you to handle it to add eyes or stencil details without damaging the paint. Then it insures you get a clear coat that is free of blemishes.
2) I apply the mid-coat with with an airbrush thinned 15% with distilled water but, you can also dip the lure in the un-thinned mid-coat.
3) UV resin is pretty safe but PPE's never hurt.
can you tell me more about why you use polycrylic as your base coat? Do you think I could brush it on and have the same benefits? I usually just put the UV resin directly on my design (painted with nail polish and other oil based paints) I have issues sometimes with dimples or holes from birst bubbles offgassing (I think) while curing. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video. It was very helpful.
The polyacrylic acts as a priner...it makes a friendly layer for the clear coat. So far it has worked with every clear-coat I've tried. Working with nail polish is tricky because it's designed to set very quickly so it doesn't drip or sag. But that means it can capture bubbles really easily and get a little too textured.
Oh..and yes you can probably brush it on and have it work just as well...good luck.
can this resin be used for car windshield crack repair?
Sorry I don't know
Here's a curious one: I have these two resins as well. In one of my curing boxes, the Alumi UV cracks and crazes, badly. The Chinese resin does not. Wavelength maybe?
It could be wavelength but, that's a pretty big difference in curing results. Some oil-based paints can react to ultraviolet light. I would put both resins on a a single sample surface that has no paint to take that out of the equation. How long are you curing for?
Engineered Angler, I've done that. I took a cue from you and put them each in their own plastic cup. The ALUMI-UV is fine in my 36w nail lamp type curing boxes, but fries in the Sterilizer. Meanwhile, the China resin is fine in both. The sterilizer is a single 8watt lamp, with a 30 min timer. Just for grins, I tried two other UV products in the sterilizer. No bueno. It seemed to cook Solarez's new I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer, almost as bad as it cooks alumi UV. I also tried a topcoat for medical use, by a company called Pro3Dure. It didn't seem to cure that at all. Well.... Back to the drawing board. I have a grill rotisserie motor arriving tomorrow, for a curing box/turner not unlike yours, although not as cleanly implimented.
@@leesbassment6393
A sterilizer...oh goodness that's probably the culprit. Sterilizers push the wavelengths way down near 250 nano-meters, thats down in the UVC spectrum, just a few notches above X-ray . I would give that away to an aquarium enthusiast. You want your curing lamp to be somewhere between 370 and 405 nm. I find that the 385nm lights work very well for all but the industrial resin used for electronics. I bought an entire gallon of this stuff and I can't get it to cure fully with my lamps...so I screw up too. Good luck... and keep me posted, this is cool stuff.
Engineered Angler, interesting. Given that, it's interesting that it cures anything at all. I got it as an experiment. So far, the best curing I've had is with those little 9watt florescent lamps they use in cheap nail curing stations. So far, I have seven of those. 😎
Same Chinese brand I use
09:02 Conclusion: Alumi UV ≈ China Brand UV Resin
Probably made by the same Chinese company. Who knows!
👍👍👍
Your place to work.its a dream to me.magyver...
Thank you. ...it was a lot of work to build it but it was worth the effort.
Hunny, i shrunk the kids.
Links to both products are in the description above...
Esa resina china aplica bien algunas semanas luego de haberla aplicado a la superficie, posteriormente se torna de un color amarillento. No sirve .
Éso nunca me ha pasado...
buy american :)
Keep buying Chinese. You are only putting your kids out of work