When men in suits design a watch: IWC Pilot Performance Chrono
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- As a die-hard lover of the IWC Pilot line, especially the MK XX and the IWC Pilot Chrono, this IWC Pilot Performance Chrono really caught my eye. I like it, but it did get me thinking about what happens when you build a product entirely for a specific market demographic.
Enjoy!
Looking forward to reading your thoughts in the comments and as always, if you enjoy my content, do consider subscribing. It is hugely appreciated.
Cheers!
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Wow, I’m blown away. Once again you’ve made your case with a no-fluff superlative delivery. Cannot wait for the next one.
Thanks - Will try not to disappoint 😃
"It's no longer in my collection" what a perfect way to say "I sold it."
true... 😂
“Here in the hallowed, marble tiled and wood panelled walls of the office, we find its inhabitants: The Striver, wearing their obsolete timetelling accoutrements like jewellery. There we find the Desk Diver, over engineered for its actual purpose as it never encounters anything deeper than a cupped hands’ well of water, and the Boardroom Watch, a hodgepodge design of questionable provenance.”
David Attenborough at his finest.
You had me at “hallowed”…. 😂😂😂
The Ceratanium version of the Performance Chrono is simply amazing. I didn’t even know it existed until I stepped into my AD today. It didn’t even feel like your typical Pilot watch. The additions of the tachymetre, slight differences in the subdial design, and black colour scheme made it wear very different compared to a usual pilot. It didn’t feel thick at all either. I’m smitten by it… I’ll likely buy it before the weekend 😂
Spot on. Also, I think any marketing strategy in which products are labeled as 'performance' or, in other cases, 'pro/fessional' or 'tac/tical' etc, is weak, borderline silly and indicates a wannabe attitude. Some buzzwords don't really buzz anymore.
It's just missing "EXTREME!!!!!" 😃😃
Great perspective as alway .. I am a big fan of Pre-Richemont IWC watches ... I have an IWC 3706 and the classic IWC Aquatimer 3536 Titanium .. I just love their classic designs and I agree their evolutions since has gotten so far away from where they started. I would love to see them bring back the 3536 Aqautimer design in both steel and titanium ... I also believe their Pre-Richemont pilot watch bracelet designs were so far ahead of anything else made at the time and still unrivaled in my opinion. I will note that IWC has finally stopped replacing the fish crowns upon service. They now replace the fish crown with a new fish crown. So perhaps they are learning.
Thank you! 😃
There's no doubt that Richemont wasn't purely a positive for IWC but in recent years they've definitely gotten more on track with many (but not all) things.
Thanks for contributing 😃😃😃
Love your analysis. Here’s my take: when marketing takes over design and engineering, the company is in trouble. When accounting then takes over marketing, there is a crisis. When the C-suite then takes over accounting, time to bale.
Lol. Enron anyone? .🤣🤣
Love the ceratanium version but at $20k USD, not so interested with their price mark-ups (i.e. Ingenieur?).
You mean PVD coated.
They definitely think they can charge that much... 😃
What a great analysis of this watch, I think you might be spot on. Thank you!
Thanks 😀😀
Absolutely fascinating analysis, even if a bit speculative. Very well thought through. And yet I must say I love the watch!
Speculating is fun 😂
John Mayer published his open letter to IWC in early 2015. Nearly 9 years on, and they seemed to have learned very little.
Totally forgot about that letter .... .😂
Interesting commentary. Everyone always say buy what you like. This watch is beautiful and flashy. The market is calling for flash. I feel it’s more marketing than boardroom. Using existing components is the oldest trick in the book. I have a new Z06 and the turn signal control is shared with a Chevrolet cobalt. Still a great car, cheap shared turn signal control aside.
Agreed. I think this watch is fantastic
We all like what we like at the end of the day 😃
I Love the New IWC Chronograph due mainly to the Raised Numberals. Don't love the Price. But it Looks Awesome. To Each His Own.....
Exactly. We all like what we like .😃😃
Great video, thought provoking (and i have a soft-spot for IWC), thank you Mike
Thanks - You're welcome 😃
Wow. I went from "oh, why is he whining about this watch?" to "Ah, I totally get it!" Well argued as always.
You don't have to agree, but if you can at least see where I'm coming from, I'm happy 😃😃
Soft spot in my heart for IWC - when in HK on business coming out of Kowloon station and the gigantic ads on the wall.
But as you describe still appear to be either rudderless - or at least have the wrong hand on the rudder. Should have priced the Ingenieur at $8k to get watch fans back in, then sell them a chrono a few yrs later.
Ingenieur at 8K. I would buy one in a heartbeat... 😃
I agree with most of what you say. However, the clear advantage of ALL the IWC plot chrono models, like my 1/125 version for Collective, is the large wide pointy hands on the subdials, particularly the chrono minutes hand at the top of the dial. With my not-young eyes, this design makes the chronograph function more readable and therefore more practical. I would take any of the Pilot's Chrono models over any chrono with stick hands. It's that much better.
This is very true - Their true pilots chronos are stunners all of them. AND - I do not care about the thickness 😃😃
So ein Ding müssen wir auch haben! (We need to have such a thing as well!) 😂😂😂😂 Awesome ❤! Kind regards from Germany 🇩🇪
Thanks - My german is reasonable - Hopefully my accent wasn't too bad though 😃😃
Agree with you here, it does look a lot like a box ticking exercise.
Still a great looking watch, but yeah, it does definitely loose some charisma with trying to do it all, also the AMG back just had me laughing.
Especially as I find it fitting with what AMG used to stand for, and how it today is just marketing, much like BMW's M department.
I like to say the //M no longer stands for Motorsport, but rather //Marketing.
Lol - Dial M for marketing 😂
Absolutely intriguing analysis. Thanks! Given you mentioning the automotive industry (and btw Mercedes specifically) as an example more than once in conjunction with your knowledge of some German, I somehow suspect that you are or had been working for a German carmaker
He he... No. But my dad did. We've talked a lot about mercedes... 😃😃
Yet another brilliant analysis artfully presented. Keep up the good work. Merry Christmas!
Extemely generous of you! Thank you soooo much 😀😀😀😀😀😀😍
Great take. I agree.
Thanks 😃
I understand your chain of thought but I just like it. It's more piloty speedy. Love the arabic numerals, teal accents are looking fire.
Great video - don’t fully agree w your take, the boardroom is responding to demand. Nothing wrong w that. I wish they were 1-2k cheaper. Same w the Ingenieur -great execution (and responding to demand) but imagine the Ing at 8 or even 9. Thanks for the video.
Fair enough! 😃
I disagree. I think the 43mm chrono is beautifully proportioned and is magic. I think the 41mm chrono was your “boardroom watch”. Cram it all in. Make it fit into a 41mm because bigger watches are not selling anymore. This new 41mm chrono is SO much better proportioned. And they have had a 10 year relationship with AMG, an auto racing brand, and have been forcing a pilot watch to do a sport chronos job all that time. They see a market for a product that they needed anyway and an opportunity to improve upon the screwy proportions of the 41mm chrono. I think it’s stunning. And will be a win. As long as they keep making the 43mm chrono as is.
Fair enough - I don't have a truth, only a personal perspective 😃😃
Great thoughts - appreciate your take
Thanks for listening 😃
Glad you approve of the Portugieser. I’m not certain why I’m attracted to them but I’m looking for the right one at present.
It's a great watch. That simple 😃
All ways refreshing perspective. Very enjoyable.
Much appreciated! 😃
I like everything except the thickness. I am 6' 3'' tall but I believe 14.7mm is just thick to wear on my wrist.
Very interesting - something just hit wrong with this watch and I think you articulated it. I want to like IWC - I want a vintage gold Cal. 89 some day and I appreciate the long watch making history. But there is always something missing, especially for the prices they demand. Browsing their website, there are so many little iterations of many of their watches that I find it quite overwhelming and unfocused.
I’m probably in the minority here but I actually like this watch a lot - better than the pilot it was based on. However, I’m probably not the best person to ask because I am not and might never be in the market for a chronograph simply because I don’t buy watches with complications I wouldn’t use. But this watch with its raised numerals has the best shot at convincing me otherwise 😅
Darn it… you’re right about everything!
Tell my wife that 😂😂
It is funny, I hated this watch when I first saw it, I happen to have a chance to try it on earlier today, I ended up loving it. That bezel really added presence to its smaller 41mm size. Side by side compared to a classic in 41mm, it really looked cooler. Would I take this over the new 41mm standard, absolutely. Would I take this over the 43 or 44.5mm standard ones with ceramic case. Now that is a hard call. However, I think I would only take the Performance in full bracelet, not in a strap model.
Fair call - At the end of the day, we like what we like - which is as it should be 😃
I do not understand how IWC can shamelessly charge around 8K for their basic pilot's watches when a LACO costs less than a grand and looks much more like the real deal.
My Mark 16 cost £2500 this year
This misses the point - I have both and they are completely different in terms of fit and finish. It’s like comparing the Longines Hydro and the Omega Seamaster. Finishing, brand positioning, etc. I agree that they are moving up, but so is everyone else w a few exceptions.
@@rfgf72 I agree 50%
IWC is worth more money than a LACO ... absolutely... but prices of many high end brands are getting out of hand... which is a shame... only a few years ago this would have been 6k...
Laco is fully matte which I love. Fully matte IWC costs at least 7 times more. And after seeing it in person I do not know how on earth that 7 fold price jump is in any way justified
@@theshadowman1398 I don't think prices like that are justifiable... but.... and it's a big but... if you love the IWC, then a substitute is not a good idea. I've been through it. You buy that Hamilton or whatever. A few weeks go by, and you want that IWC ... or Rolex... or whatever... for a watch you may keep for decades, I would always recommend you go for the one you want. For me there is no substitute for my Mark IWC, and if i dreamed of a Rolex or Omega or etc, I would rather save for another few years and pay the high price. It IS worth it.. always..... my opinion anyway
P.s. I would never pay this price for this IWC...I actually don't really like the watch. The Speedy is the one to get, if you like the Tachymeter look
reminds me of a cross between the victorinox field force and tag.
lol 😂
Very thoughtful opinions here substantiated by examples of what you mean by "boardroom watch." One of the greatest strengths of the IWC Pilot watches is their devotion to the design, following as you point out the practice of making only incremental changes that do not stray too far from a basic historical design...for the most part. From a layperson's take, I don't like the latest chrono because it looks a little like the parts came out of the IWC kitchen sink with some minor tweaks here and there (fonts and retained hand shapes, and overall case and hardware design); so much so that I wouldn't object to calling it a frankenwatch (maybe a little harsh, but its my stupid opinion so there). And arguably, it helps to cheapen the brand and the decades long dedication of IWC to creating it's flieger image.
Thanks - happy it resonated with your own thinking 😀
I am really enjoying your unique approach to watches, but I can not help but wonder if I should be listening to someone who could bring that COUCH into his home :)
I did actually bring that couch into my home. Up the stairs. Round a corner. The whole shebang. 😀😀
I'm not into boredom watches either 😉 Jokes aside, that thing has Daytona written all over it, and i'm not into homages of any kind.
Lol 😂😂
Great take and perspective-again! I will try and learn from you (Grand Seiko…you listening?)
Always a big thanks 😃😃
I like the look of this but I dont think I would buy one even if I had the money. It doesnt have any soul... Have a great weekend Mike!
Always good to have you around. Cheers 😃
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch Take care and have a fantastic festive season!
Zenith did a better job of Daytonafying their flagship chronograph. Then again, they weren't coming from such a tool-ish place. I wonder how IWC will do with the Pilot Performance. The look might appeal to a more trendy customer.
Perhaps - The chronomaster sport is for sure the archetype daytona inspired watch of this decade 😃😃
Funny. You’ve just convinced to get one. 😅
You do you 😂
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch honestly, after breaking the 40th watch barrier, I’m going into watch rehab.
Just shift the subdials on 3,6 and 9, move day-date on 12 and you got an icon.
I usually agree with your takes which is why I subscribed to your channel. But hard disagree on the increased price compared to base models. I found this watch only by watching this video, but my gut told me it's a great looking watch and so I took the plunge and just bought this. The applied indices on this watch is crazy. Imagine if Omega released the dark side of the moon series in the same dimensions as the basic moonwatch. Same 42mm and 13.x inch thickness. Applied vs painted indices.
Obviously, omega would price this version higher than the base model. Whether you think the base price itself is worth it or not is a different question. But relative to the base price, the increase is nominal.
In addition to that, out of most collaborations from manufacturers that directly scream the collab on the dial, they do it here subtly on the caseback, with just some text on the outer ring. This is the kind of subtlety I hope everyone goes for. Not something that says "REDBULL ALINGHI SAILING" on the dial which you're forced to look at always.
WE like what we like. If you like it, then great for you. cheers 😃😃😃
It may be a ‘boardroom’ watch….but it looks pretty good to me! Lovely watch. IWC make wonderful watches. But Im more likely to add a portugesiuer than this. Sports chronos are not really my jam.
Fair enough! We like what we like 😀
I love IWC, but really dislike their chrono proportions... nearly 15mm thick... just not good enough. I would love to want other IWC watches to join my Mark XVI. That watch is 39mm x 11mm thick... but most other IWCs are just too chunky. Its a shame
Good luck seeing IWC make a chrono movement that can fit in that small a case, unfortunately 😃😃
@@Mike.thiswatchthatwatch ha ha I know! I won't be getting a chrono watch that's over 12.5-13mm... so there are options with JLC, rolex and a few others.. to be honest I'm very happy with my Mark XVI...I don't think I want anything else at the moment
U r being a little harsh on IWC. AP has botched and made a joke out of the Royal Oak with all of its iterations and ridiculous limited versions and yet, have nit seen a lot of your dismay over AP’s decisions.
There is nothing wrong with seeing a gap and trying to cover it. U cant get a daytona. Nothing wrong w a 3rd entrance to the dance. I have all 3 (daytona ceramic, speedy and Chrono Sport. This will be my 4th iteration…. Leta drop the holier than thou attitude here that smells like watch snobbery….and enjoy these for that they are
If you think I'm being harsh on IWC, you should watch my video about the AP Alyx.... 😂
The watch-question of this decade: Which watch will be the first to be worn by a human on the surface of mars?
It's a bit off-topic, but I felt it was chronograph related :p
Lol 😂
IWC are a shadow of their former self. They've been designing marketing-led watches since Richemont took over. Big Pilot design cues have infiltrated most watches and they've abandoned the traditional Mark styling in favour of Flieger styling across the board. The innovative genius of Klaus and Habring has been flushed away as, like most Richemont brands, they've gone down the POV marketing route based on basic criteria - Luftwaffe memorabilia or wannabe Top-Gun. Now they're looking to F1, which they have no history in and fail to recognise that plastering their watches with Petronas or AMG rules out fans of other teams or cars. Naff like Panerai. Only Cartier can escape the death by Richemont.
Good insights there James. I totally agree . However, if there is a demographic to whom a bit of tacky borrowed prestige, from one of the current flavour of the month icons, is a persuasive motivator toward purchasing such a crassly adorned object, I suspect that there will be at least as many other potential buyers who will run a mile in the opposite direction.
I believe it would be a serious mis-step, comparable to Rado's current enthusiasm for plastering their previously elegant creations with a tawdry display of diamonds: gew-gaws and doo-dahs, which only make me cherish my Rado Cupoula the more, for its tastefully restrained appearance. I will never buy another Rado, since they appear to be courting an entirely "different" demographic from that which I am accustomed to being a part of. I now view Rado watches as being divided into pre and post effeminate pandering.
Omega suffer much unfavourable comment on the almost innumerable versions of their Seamaster; So God forbid that they venture down the Rado route. I treasure my conservatively styled Seamaster Diver, and am considering another Omega to wear as a daytime suit watch, but definitely will not, if they decide to take the current Rado route. Go woke go broke, Bye bye Rado.
Hear him, hear him! Well said Sir! Where will it end? A healthier bank balance, at least.@@barryfullick7981
Wow, I'm not following a lot that was said. The Gerald Genta that could be described as 'leaving a designer to his own or what he does best' is it not his sonnerie complication ? Rolex Cellini are kind of uninspiring maybe even Rolex is uninspiring as a whole. I think the Portofino line should be discontinued. The beautiful current Portuguese 358306, 40mm in gold is maybe the most perfect watch made currently. I really like the variations of IWC Pilots offered.
Looks like a late 2000s TAG Heuer Carrera. 😂
I see what you're saying... 😂
I never liked IWC.
It has always felt like an airline monthly magazine brand - the kind that advertises its watches (like Patek and Rolex) as it is less watch and more a Veblen good.
He. Thought you were writing about Breitling, but I see your point 😂
You clearly know nothing of IWC's history.
Did IWC just use the Tag Heuer factory to make this?
😂😂
Can't see myself buying a IWC. In almost all categories they feel like the alternative. Probably the Mark (XX) is the only exception. But then that also feels overpriced. Can't see how it's 3x better than a Longines Spirit. Sure, it has more legacy. But it's a legacy tainted with nazy colaborationizm. And the Spirit case is simply better. You can have that without a date, in Ti5, with an bracelet for less than half the price of a Mark XX.
I always felt like IWC is overpriced.
IT's gotten worse in recent years 😃😃
i love your channel but i completely disagree with you on this one because this is the first time IWC produce proper motorsport chrono they never had proper motorsport chrono, for us people love motorsport racing this is a great news actually I'm going to save for it the fact that ist first motorsport chrono racing watch
Fair enough! We all like what we like 😀
Grade 5 may not be the most corrosion resistant. Grade 2 may still have the edge.
Don't get me started on G2 vs G5 😂
Grüße aus Deutschland!
Grüß Gott 😂
Well in your video on 22 Jan, 23 your lack of attraction towards G.S was attributed to "a watch designed by engineers". I m confused.
Don’t be.
There are two distinct points.
This video: I state that watches where the engineers and the artists have the reins are more likely to be succesful in the market. I also state that it is not a garuantee - only that it is better option than leaving it entirely to the money men.
My personal opinion about some grand seikos: I think many are overengineered for my tastes and likely also for a broader audience. They have a loyal following and sell 50.000 watches a year, but there’s a long way to Rolex 1.2 million…..
Cheers 😀
I love chronographs, but these are just terrible. Almost as bad as those breitling Bentley’s a decade or so ago.
Wow. Rough! Breitling was bad back then 😂😂
Ha, the AMG logo on the back is childish.
The Bezel is too much alike the Daytona. A little bit of a copy of the design😮
The more succinct (yet less kind) evaluation is tha this is a boring design pushed out by greedy weasels. In this day and age, to hang onto the 6/9/12 dial layout of the Valjoux 7750 is design death. A noble, rugged movement- but it just reminds me of all the ETA based pieces IWC has pushed over the years. You are completely correct at how they have completely messed up the Ingenieur. The Mk XV was a great piece..but that was a long time ago.
The denomination "board room watch" hits close. Far more fitting would be to call it a "brand watch". A watch from an oligarchic conglomerate pretending to be a historical company with soul.
Also a relevant way of putting it 😊
Wow ! So many watches being launched - almost every week. It’s like a pissing contest ! (Sorry about that)
2023 has been a bumper release year for sure 😃😃
😂 IWC spends so much money on marketing with US Navy fighter pilots and forget to make their overpriced Big Pilot watches water resistant 😅 Tragic 😮
The Big Pilot 43 is rated at 100m. Why does a pilot need water resistance anyway?
@@gmnty13 how much waster survival training do you think the navy puts its pilots through? Ignorance shouldn't be celebrated. Try to remember that
For me IWC is overpriced. I get the minimalistic Flieger- and Fieldwatch design that is the base for all their products, but you can get this at a lower or even very low pricepoint from other OGs (Laco, Hamilton, Hanhart, etc.) and 1.000 homage watches all around the world. Especially in middle europe IWC has this very good name but for me they lack idea and innovation and most importantly, their products are overpriced.
Not a fan. Classic pilot is the only way.
Dude, your video is completely confusing. STOP the quick cycling of images. What I the pilot and what is the perfrormance