This is the first of your videos I found. Very thorough and useful information. Well-presented also. I have one regret. Upon looking at your video collection, I see there isn’t a lot of stuff there. I’d love to see you, teach the entire operation/maintenance/troubleshooting of an oil burner like this. Thank you for the effort.
Great info, I live in a bush town in Alaska so my resources are very limited and I have a heating and plumbing business so this is gold to me, thank God for UA-cam and guys like you to take the time to post these video's.
I have an oil pump that leaks. Is this normal for a pump only a couple of years old? I can't see where the leak comes from, there's only a drop per day or so.
Buena noche soy de Guatemala qué puedo hacer tengo una bomba suntec E4NCK 10698 p Me trabaja 3 minutos con aceite pesado luego se apaga por que la llama es inestable y e regulado la precion de la bomba lla Prue en 100 psi y en 50 psi. Y no mejora la función. Que puedo hacer el quemador es un ecoflam 50. L temperatura del precalentamiento la trabajo a 100;!°C. Que puedo hcer
Very informative & easy to follow. 👍 # 286 I came across your channel looking for some information on these pumps. I am working on a Webster MD43H-3 which they no longer manufacture but have a replacement for. My problem is that they told me the inlet & return ports are aligned differently & the location I have to work in is very tight so adapting the lines will be more of a job than changing the pump. The current pump was clogged with sludge. After cleaning it out I am getting oil out of the bleeder port but not the feed to the nozzle. Looking at the diagram for the Suntec it looks like I may still have a plug at this point. I know without seeing it makes it difficult to diagnose but could it be something other than a clog? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Stay Safe, Joe Z
Thanks Joe Z for your support. Webster pumps do not use a strainer instead they use a set of knives that cut up the sludge and send it through to the nozzle which sounds great but it just plugges everything up. I do not recommend Webster pumps because of this. If you’re not getting oil through the nozzle port then you’re valve inside the pump is not working properly and the pump should be replaced. Even if you could free it probably will not work correctly or it is worn to the point where it will not work properly.
@@scotttaylor5658 You're welcome & thank you for your quick reply. I was surprised when I did not find a strainer in there. I though maybe some one cleaned it out & never put it back in but realized there wasn't any room for one. I did see the knives you mentioned, in the shape of a triangle. I am going to have a time cutting & splicing the copper fuel line to fit the new pump. It is up against the wall with almost no room to work. I called a local supply house & they have the Suntec pumps in stock. Any tips for splicing the line to fit?
This was a great video with the A2VA-7116 pump. I am somewhat new to troubleshooting these pumps. I am a little confused about the vacuum and testing a pump. On the A2VA-7116 single line set, 3/8" with no electronic solenoid. With a gauge connected, 3450 rpm. With a dual pressure/vacuum gauge connected I read 135psi with a .75gph nozzle and the thermostat reaches temp, shuts pump off....will the gauge go to zero or hold a vacuum? I am just confused if that 10psi you mentioned means that it has to have 10psi of vacuum to basically open the valve then once the pumps shuts off and there is no vacuum, the internal valve closes to prevent free flow? Hopefully this makes sense. I took the cover off before I ever watched this and just a little oil leaked out then stopped. I do know that inside the tube where the nozzle screws in, there seems to be a check valve, I can hear it when I invert to burner tube. Thanks in after for any further information.
The pressure and vacuum will drop to zero when the burner turns off. The fuel cut off valve which allows the fuel to flow to the nozzle line opens and closes on centrifugal force. The pump needs to get up to speed to open. When testing the cut off valve, the pressure should not drop lower than 10 psi. With the burner running. Please watch my video to explain how to test the cut off valve. Example: If your pump is set to 135 psi. Then when testing the fuel cut off it shouldn’t drop no more than 10 psi. to 125 psi. with the burner running.
@scotttaylor3049 it may have an issue then. It does have one of those insufficient check valves inside the oil tube at nozzle adapter....no electronic solenoid which you probably already know. With the gauge in the gauge port the pressure doesn't drop when running and when it shuts off, that gauge reads zero. Then jumps up to the 125 at startup. I will try to locate the video about checking the shut-off. Thanks
* Respectfully, motors and pumps do not always 'go from the shaft end'. I've travelled nine states as a journeyman/ foreman/ service & project mgr. for a union contractor. Company was founded in 1869. Very large industrial and institutional heating, cooling, and process applications. Be aware that some manufacturers will specify 'Opposite shaft end' or 'Lead End' when referencing rotation. 'Always' and 'nevers' can create problems.
Hi Bob thank you for your comment. You are correct on what you have said, but if you would notice the very beginning of this video it is a specific video for a Suntech A2VA 7116 fuel pump. This particular pump is always looked at from the shaft end for rotational purposes. Since this video was showing training on this particular pump, I felt no need to get into all the other aspects of every pump situation that you might run into. Thank you for adding your comment and your information of this subject matter.
This is a great video, but I still am puzzled by the topic you are covering at about 10:25 My question is, if the OSV needs a slight suction from the pump to permit flow, then why is there not such a / (another) device immediately at the tank outlet, so that any rupture of the pipe beyond the tank is protected by this upstream OSV, thereby stopping the tank contents from emptying onto the ground? I realize that the OSV near the boiler is there to detect heat and shut off the flow when needs be, but is there any reason why something similar couldn't be right up close to the tank. EDIT - (I have in the last few minutes found this comment referring to where an engineer should install an OSV, besides just as you have explained) "he should install a second OSV on the same oil supply line at the outlet from the oil tank, particularly if the oil tank outlet piping exits at the tank bottom, and ahead of the oil filter" Do you see any downside to doing this, and if not, I wonder why it isn't common practice, or even mandatory?
Thanks for your comment. I’m in Connecticut and Connecticut State Code requires a thermal safety valve at the burner and at the oil tank but it only works on temperature if there’s a fire it will melt and shut the oil off. Connecticut code for many years now requires a vinyl coated oil line in case it does leak that way it will not leak into the ground. I’ve never seen one just rupture since it’s not under any pressure but overtime some do corrode through even though it is copper. it is still extremely rare. The majority of oil tanks in Connecticut are in the basement.
Having and air issue with my single stage pump. Even with Tiger Loop I get air bound about every 3 months. Oil tank and burner are on same level. I have a 3/8"oil line that runs from just off bottom of tank up to attic 12 ' vertically, then 40' horizontal then down to tiger loop and burner. Minimal bends. Everything worked perfectly for about one year then the problems started. After bleeding the vacuum is 0 but over time it increases up to 8". Would a 1/2" line solve my problems?
Hi James, First you need to determine if it is an air issue or cavitation. You definitely need a two stage pump because of the high head even with a tiger loop. A Tiger Loop works OK to prime the pump but you still have to get the oil to it. A larger line would make it worse because you would need more vacuum to get the oil to the burner because of increased volume (weight of the oil). If you are not sucking air from a loose fitting, more than likely it is cavitation because of the amount of vacuum needed to pull the oil to the pump. 1- Install a Two Stage Fuel Pump. A single stage pump is not designed to do what you are doing. 2- Blow out the oil lines with air. Make sure they are not plugged. 3- Use only Flare Connections. Compression fittings leak to easily and are against code in some states. 4- Make sure all flares are good and fittings are tight. 5- Make sure Fuel Pump Cover has good gasket, Strainer and oil filter are clean and pump cover is tight. 6- Blow back into the fuel tank to make sure drain is clear from sludge.
@@scotttaylor3049 Thank you for the quick reply, I spoke with a rep at Suntec and they said I should be fine with the single stage because the oil tank and burner are on the same level so there is no actual true lift? They said a B pump would make things worse with the 3/8 line and I should increase the line to 1/2" . I will try the B pump tomorrow seeing as it makes more sense and changing the line is going to be a lot more difficult.
@@jamesv7309 Correct once the oil gets to the pump the weight of the oil coming down cancels out the weight of it going up, BUT you have to be able to pull enough vacuum to raise the oil that far. Look at any Suntec lift chart and an A pump (single stage pump) is not designed to lift fuel, you need a B Pump (two stage pump) one stage will lift the oil and the second stage will build up the fuel pressure needed for the nozzle. If you change pumps, make sure you set the pump pressure to what the system requires, Sometimes 100, 120 140 or 150 PSI Not sure who you spoke to for a rep but he does not know about his products. 35 years experience in this field.
I just recently picked up an old unit (60s) and the shaft seal went out on my pump. I am new to this stuff and am looking to upgrade my pump. Are the housing diameter and shaft sizes a universal deal? Or do I have to check for the proper shaft size and mounting collar size?
Hey JC. Burners started to change in the 60s and early 70s for newer styles. Look at the model number on the end of the fuel pump. And then look the information up on the manufactures website. Sometimes the information will be on a sticker on the strainer cover. You need to match rotational speed such as 1725 or 3450 RPM. The gearset will determine how large a nozzle you can use. For instance if the gear set is 3 GPH, it will supply enough oil and pressure up to a 3 gallon nozzle. You also need to match rotation direction and sometimes nozzle port location. Without more information that is about all the information I can give you. There are basically two sizes of pump shaft but when you purchase a burner coupling, it will come with different sizes to adapt. For the house in diameter if you were changing from a J Series pump to a mini pump you might not be able to adapt. You better just stay with the original pump to guarantee the correct fit. If you have matched all criteria that I have mentioned, and the mounting hole is the same then you’ll have no problem with the pump. Years ago they made an adapter from Jay series pumps to the new mini pumps. I don’t know if you would ever be able to find one of those. Good luck on your project.
@@scotttaylor3049 It's a sundstrand j3cd2003 pump. Also I am looking to get this system to run waste motor oil. Currently I need to preheat the oil to get it to start when it's cold. What do you suggest I do to adapt this to run more effortlessly with waste oil? It's a shop heater.
+Rondo Schiavoni Hello and thanks for the question. I don't know what plate you are referring to or what fuel pump your have. I would not use anything but the original gasket or if one is not available, make one out of gasket material you can purchase at a hardware or small engine rebuilding center. Fuel oil will dissolve most types of caulking at least it will soften it and cause a fuel leak.
Awesome video! Great info. My Beckett oil burner has a B2VA-8216 with no Solenoid. It’s old. I still hear a delay sometimes, I’m assuming that’s from the “fuel cut off valve”? The tank is bottom feed at ground level about 15 feet away. If I replace the pump, can I use an A2VA-7116 or one with a Solenoid delay built on? It doesn’t seem like I needed a 2 stage pump anyway. Small one story house 1100 sq feet. Thanks!
Johnny's Cousin Steve You said you hear a delay sometimes. I assume you mean at startup. The most common cause of that is a bad ignition transformer. It may have a strong spark but delays on startup. Start and stop the burner 30-40 times. “Making sure it fires every time”. Only let it run for a few seconds, just long enough to fire the burner. Listen for the crackle sound of the spark each time. If you hear it delay just once, replace it. Other causes can be, electrodes not adjusted correctly, cracked porcelain on the electrodes, too much air, wrong nozzle, carbon buildup on air tube or electrodes, burnt air tube, plugged oil system, too much draft.
Scott Taylor Thanks, Scott! Yeah I guess it could be a bunch of things. It only happens a few times a season. My ears are pretty tuned into it. I’ll do a thorough check in the fall. I was working on the burner at my rental that does hot water too so I have to always be watching that one. What about replacing the pump? Seems overkill being a 2 stage for gravity feed 15 ft away. I’d rather get a cheaper single stage w a Solenoid
Scott Taylor I guess I’m just planning ahead. You’re right. I like to have a plan should it got out in the dead of winter. I subscribed to your channel. I look forward to more of your video drops!! Thanks for the replies!!
trying to go from LP to oil ( house is in the side of a hill and the utility room is up 20' from ground ) is there a pump I can use to get the oil to lift 20+ feet I will be buying a Beckett oil burner??? or can I cut up an old Beckett oil burner and just use the pump to send it to the oil burner 20' up use a relay of some kind ?? with like car brake line (2500 psi ) ??
Douglas Smith Hi Doug thanks for asking. Yes there is an optional two stage fuel pump that can be ordered with the burner or it can be added if you can not purchase it already installed. The first stage of the pump is designed to pull the fuel to the pump,and the second stage builds up the pressure. Ask your dealer for that option. When in doubt, always follow the manufacturers guidelines when choosing a fuel pump to make sure it is capable of doing the necessary job. You can find the pump curves and specifications on their website. www.suntecpumps.com/PDFs/Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.pdf
If you put a Tigerloop off the pump and your unit is say 10' above the bottom of the tank and your using 3/8" supply line would that be easier on the pump and that chart change it's specs?
Harold Perantie thanks for your question Harold it’s a good one. That should not change the performance of the pump. Look at it this way. Your oil line supply is a column of oil that you are trying to lift to a certain height. The fuel pump has to create a certain amount of vacuum to pull that oil to the desired height whether it is going to the pump directly or to a holding tank or a tiger loop witch is essentially a small holding tank. So the fuel pump has to create the correct vacuum or lift to pull that column of oil to the desired height. The advantage of using a tiger loop is that it reduces the flow rate of fuel being sucked through the supply line. A standard residential fuel pump gear set will pull 25 gallons per hour through the pump. Thats all the pump knows, its either on or off. If you have a 1 gallon nozzle then 24 gallons per hour are returning to the tank when using a two pipe system, (a return line). This makes the pump a self priming pump as well. Since there are 25 gallons per hour flowing through the supply line, it creates extra friction because of the flowrate and how clean the fuel lines are, and the viscosity of the fuel. Using the Tiger loop the oil now recirculates in the Tiger loop and only will pull through the supply line the amount of oil equal to the nozzle in the system. In my example 1 gallon per hour will flow through the supply line instead of the 25 gallons when using a two pipe system. The Tiger loop will also allow the pump to self prime. That’s important if you are pulling oil up in Lou of a free-flowing gravity situation. This will also help in extreme cold conditions because of the viscosity of the fuel. If you put too much vacuum on the fuel it will separate called cavitation, so using the Tiger loop will help in this situation. I hope this answers your question.
Harold Perantie Check this out www.suntecpumps.com/PDFs/Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.pdf Check out page l-6. You have a single stage pump. It can only pull 6” hg on a one pipe or 12”hg using two pipe. Anything more than that and you will need a TWO stage fuel unit. This unit can pull 17” hg of vacuum. Do you know the vacuum you have? Find a pump that meets your specs such as the B2VA-8216. Just make sure the pump can pull the necessary vacuum and your nozzle does not exceed the pumps gear set capacity. Follow the tables on this website. Make sure all the other specs are correct for your application.
Thank you Norman for leaving your educational comment. You are correct it is in inches of mercury. If you notice at the very beginning of the video, I state that this is for the advanced journeyman, not for someone just learning the trade. With that in mind I assume you already know the basic principles of what I am talking about so there was no need for me to do a extensive beginner training. Thank you for your concern and pointing that out.
Kyle there is a part two to this series. I am not a faithful blogger I only post one or two videos a year. I am so busy but when I get the chance I try to do one. Thank you for your inquiry and I hope it helped.
Dennis Noone The standard use to be 100 PSI to the nozzle, but for years now, in most cases with that pump, it is 140 PSI. Its always a good idea to double check the pressure.
You need to send it to what the old pump is set at whether it was 100 or 140 psi. If you can’t test the old pump then look at the specs from the manufacture to determine what it should be set at
@@scotttaylor5658 im replacing a pump with an exact replacement a2va71-16, the instruction doesn't say anything about pressure adjusting, the nozzle is .65, cant find any specs its a miller M1sc086a, about 20 years old
Dennis Noone More than likely it’s 100 psi. The new pump should tell you what it set at. If you’re not sure you should test it. the easiest way to do that is to go down to the hardware store and buy a 0 to 200 pressure gauge and adapt the end to 3/16 flare. That’s the size of your nozzle line flexible copper tube on your oil burner. Take that tube with you so you make sure you get the right size. Then screw the gauge on the end of the nozzle line and the other end of the nozzle line to the pump and start it up. Then you can adjust the pump and double check that it’s set properly
this is such a weird comment, criticizing a video that youre not obligated to watch. someone took the time out of their day to inform and help others who may be in need. you literally offered nothing of value.
This is the best explanation of how these burners/pumps work I have found to date. 7/23/23
This is the first of your videos I found. Very thorough and useful information. Well-presented also. I have one regret. Upon looking at your video collection, I see there isn’t a lot of stuff there. I’d love to see you, teach the entire operation/maintenance/troubleshooting of an oil burner like this. Thank you for the effort.
Thank you very very much I am an advanced journeyman. And this knowledge you pass to us is very appreciated. Take care my friend
Thank you for your positive comment. I am glad the knowledge will help you in your career👍😀
Great info, I live in a bush town in Alaska so my resources are very limited and I have a heating and plumbing business so this is gold to me, thank God for UA-cam and guys like you to take the time to post these video's.
Harold Perantie Thank you Harold I’m glad you could find it useful. What part of Alaska are you from?
I'm from Cordova, I also have a fishing lodge in a remote place here too, www.tsiuriveroutfitters.com
This was very helpful. I have no formal training but worked under a journeyman for 6 years before he retired.
nobodysmoove glad I could help
Excellent video sir. I am not an advanced journeyman but it was extremely helpful. Thank you very much
I have an oil pump that leaks. Is this normal for a pump only a couple of years old? I can't see where the leak comes from, there's only a drop per day or so.
Buena noche soy de Guatemala qué puedo hacer tengo una bomba suntec E4NCK 10698 p
Me trabaja 3 minutos con aceite pesado luego se apaga por que la llama es inestable y e regulado la precion de la bomba lla Prue en 100 psi y en 50 psi. Y no mejora la función. Que puedo hacer el quemador es un ecoflam 50. L temperatura del precalentamiento la trabajo a 100;!°C. Que puedo hcer
Very informative & easy to follow. 👍 # 286
I came across your channel looking for some information on these pumps. I am working on a Webster MD43H-3 which they no longer manufacture but have a replacement for. My problem is that they told me the inlet & return ports are aligned differently & the location I have to work in is very tight so adapting the lines will be more of a job than changing the pump. The current pump was clogged with sludge. After cleaning it out I am getting oil out of the bleeder port but not the feed to the nozzle. Looking at the diagram for the Suntec it looks like I may still have a plug at this point. I know without seeing it makes it difficult to diagnose but could it be something other than a clog? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Stay Safe, Joe Z
Thanks Joe Z for your support. Webster pumps do not use a strainer instead they use a set of knives that cut up the sludge and send it through to the nozzle which sounds great but it just plugges everything up. I do not recommend Webster pumps because of this.
If you’re not getting oil through the nozzle port then you’re valve inside the pump is not working properly and the pump should be replaced. Even if you could free it probably will not work correctly or it is worn to the point where it will not work properly.
@@scotttaylor5658 You're welcome & thank you for your quick reply. I was surprised when I did not find a strainer in there. I though maybe some one cleaned it out & never put it back in but realized there wasn't any room for one. I did see the knives you mentioned, in the shape of a triangle. I am going to have a time cutting & splicing the copper fuel line to fit the new pump. It is up against the wall with almost no room to work. I called a local supply house & they have the Suntec pumps in stock. Any tips for splicing the line to fit?
This was a great video with the A2VA-7116 pump. I am somewhat new to troubleshooting these pumps. I am a little confused about the vacuum and testing a pump. On the A2VA-7116 single line set, 3/8" with no electronic solenoid. With a gauge connected, 3450 rpm. With a dual pressure/vacuum gauge connected I read 135psi with a .75gph nozzle and the thermostat reaches temp, shuts pump off....will the gauge go to zero or hold a vacuum? I am just confused if that 10psi you mentioned means that it has to have 10psi of vacuum to basically open the valve then once the pumps shuts off and there is no vacuum, the internal valve closes to prevent free flow? Hopefully this makes sense. I took the cover off before I ever watched this and just a little oil leaked out then stopped. I do know that inside the tube where the nozzle screws in, there seems to be a check valve, I can hear it when I invert to burner tube. Thanks in after for any further information.
The pressure and vacuum will drop to zero when the burner turns off. The fuel cut off valve which allows the fuel to flow to the nozzle line opens and closes on centrifugal force. The pump needs to get up to speed to open. When testing the cut off valve, the pressure should not drop lower than 10 psi. With the burner running. Please watch my video to explain how to test the cut off valve. Example: If your pump is set to 135 psi. Then when testing the fuel cut off it shouldn’t drop no more than 10 psi. to 125 psi. with the burner running.
@scotttaylor3049 it may have an issue then. It does have one of those insufficient check valves inside the oil tube at nozzle adapter....no electronic solenoid which you probably already know. With the gauge in the gauge port the pressure doesn't drop when running and when it shuts off, that gauge reads zero. Then jumps up to the 125 at startup. I will try to locate the video about checking the shut-off. Thanks
* Respectfully, motors and pumps do not always 'go from the shaft end'.
I've travelled nine states as a journeyman/ foreman/ service & project mgr. for a union contractor. Company was founded in 1869. Very large industrial and institutional heating, cooling, and process applications.
Be aware that some manufacturers will specify 'Opposite shaft end' or 'Lead End' when referencing rotation.
'Always' and 'nevers' can create problems.
Hi Bob thank you for your comment. You are correct on what you have said, but if you would notice the very beginning of this video it is a specific video for a Suntech A2VA 7116 fuel pump. This particular pump is always looked at from the shaft end for rotational purposes. Since this video was showing training on this particular pump, I felt no need to get into all the other aspects of every pump situation that you might run into. Thank you for adding your comment and your information of this subject matter.
This is a great video, but I still am puzzled by the topic you are covering at about 10:25 My question is, if the OSV needs a slight suction from the pump to permit flow, then why is there not such a / (another) device immediately at the tank outlet, so that any rupture of the pipe beyond the tank is protected by this upstream OSV, thereby stopping the tank contents from emptying onto the ground? I realize that the OSV near the boiler is there to detect heat and shut off the flow when needs be, but is there any reason why something similar couldn't be right up close to the tank.
EDIT - (I have in the last few minutes found this comment referring to where an engineer should install an OSV, besides just as you have explained)
"he should install a second OSV on the same oil supply line at the outlet from the oil tank, particularly if the oil tank outlet piping exits at the tank bottom, and ahead of the oil filter"
Do you see any downside to doing this, and if not, I wonder why it isn't common practice, or even mandatory?
Thanks for your comment. I’m in Connecticut and Connecticut State Code requires a thermal safety valve at the burner and at the oil tank but it only works on temperature if there’s a fire it will melt and shut the oil off. Connecticut code for many years now requires a vinyl coated oil line in case it does leak that way it will not leak into the ground. I’ve never seen one just rupture since it’s not under any pressure but overtime some do corrode through even though it is copper. it is still extremely rare. The majority of oil tanks in Connecticut are in the basement.
www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-PRV-38-3-8-Oil-Safety-Valve-9944000-p
This is what you are looking for
@@scotttaylor3049 Brilliant. Thanks
Cómo hacer la instalación de tubería alimentación y retorno del combustible pesado
can one replace A2VA-7116 with delay valve with a clean cut pump PF20322
Yes
thank you@@scotttaylor3049
Having and air issue with my single stage pump. Even with Tiger Loop I get air bound about every 3 months. Oil tank and burner are on same level. I have a 3/8"oil line that runs from just off bottom of tank up to attic 12 ' vertically, then 40' horizontal then down to tiger loop and burner. Minimal bends. Everything worked perfectly for about one year then the problems started. After bleeding the vacuum is 0 but over time it increases up to 8". Would a 1/2" line solve my problems?
Hi James, First you need to determine if it is an air issue or cavitation. You definitely need a two stage pump because of the high head even with a tiger loop. A Tiger Loop works OK to prime the pump but you still have to get the oil to it. A larger line would make it worse because you would need more vacuum to get the oil to the burner because of increased volume (weight of the oil). If you are not sucking air from a loose fitting, more than likely it is cavitation because of the amount of vacuum needed to pull the oil to the pump.
1- Install a Two Stage Fuel Pump. A single stage pump is not designed to do what you are doing.
2- Blow out the oil lines with air. Make sure they are not plugged.
3- Use only Flare Connections. Compression fittings leak to easily and are against code in some states.
4- Make sure all flares are good and fittings are tight.
5- Make sure Fuel Pump Cover has good gasket, Strainer and oil filter are clean and pump cover is tight.
6- Blow back into the fuel tank to make sure drain is clear from sludge.
@@scotttaylor3049 Thank you for the quick reply, I spoke with a rep at Suntec and they said I should be fine with the single stage because the oil tank and burner are on the same level so there is no actual true lift? They said a B pump would make things worse with the 3/8 line and I should increase the line to 1/2" . I will try the B pump tomorrow seeing as it makes more sense and changing the line is going to be a lot more difficult.
@@jamesv7309 Correct once the oil gets to the pump the weight of the oil coming down cancels out the weight of it going up, BUT you have to be able to pull enough vacuum to raise the oil that far. Look at any Suntec lift chart and an A pump (single stage pump) is not designed to lift fuel, you need a B Pump (two stage pump) one stage will lift the oil and the second stage will build up the fuel pressure needed for the nozzle. If you change pumps, make sure you set the pump pressure to what the system requires, Sometimes 100, 120 140 or 150 PSI
Not sure who you spoke to for a rep but he does not know about his products. 35 years experience in this field.
@@scotttaylor3049 Thanks again!
I just recently picked up an old unit (60s) and the shaft seal went out on my pump. I am new to this stuff and am looking to upgrade my pump. Are the housing diameter and shaft sizes a universal deal? Or do I have to check for the proper shaft size and mounting collar size?
Hey JC. Burners started to change in the 60s and early 70s for newer styles. Look at the model number on the end of the fuel pump. And then look the information up on the manufactures website. Sometimes the information will be on a sticker on the strainer cover. You need to match rotational speed such as 1725 or 3450 RPM. The gearset will determine how large a nozzle you can use. For instance if the gear set is 3 GPH, it will supply enough oil and pressure up to a 3 gallon nozzle. You also need to match rotation direction and sometimes nozzle port location. Without more information that is about all the information I can give you. There are basically two sizes of pump shaft but when you purchase a burner coupling, it will come with different sizes to adapt. For the house in diameter if you were changing from a J Series pump to a mini pump you might not be able to adapt. You better just stay with the original pump to guarantee the correct fit. If you have matched all criteria that I have mentioned, and the mounting hole is the same then you’ll have no problem with the pump. Years ago they made an adapter from Jay series pumps to the new mini pumps. I don’t know if you would ever be able to find one of those. Good luck on your project.
@@scotttaylor3049
It's a sundstrand j3cd2003 pump.
Also I am looking to get this system to run waste motor oil. Currently I need to preheat the oil to get it to start when it's cold. What do you suggest I do to adapt this to run more effortlessly with waste oil? It's a shop heater.
CAN I USE THE WHITE PURE SILICON FOR SEALING WINDOWS WOULD IT SEALTHE BACK OF THE OIL PUMP PLATE GOOD FOR 300 DEGREES F ? OLDER WAYNE BURNER KEROSENE
+Rondo Schiavoni Hello and thanks for the question.
I don't know what plate you are referring to or what fuel pump your have.
I would not use anything but the original gasket or if one is not available, make one out of gasket material you can purchase at a hardware or small engine rebuilding center. Fuel oil will dissolve most types of caulking at least it will soften it and cause a fuel leak.
Awesome video! Great info. My Beckett oil burner has a B2VA-8216 with no Solenoid. It’s old. I still hear a delay sometimes, I’m assuming that’s from the “fuel cut off valve”? The tank is bottom feed at ground level about 15 feet away. If I replace the pump, can I use an A2VA-7116 or one with a Solenoid delay built on? It doesn’t seem like I needed a 2 stage pump anyway. Small one story house 1100 sq feet. Thanks!
Johnny's Cousin Steve
You said you hear a delay sometimes. I assume you mean at startup. The most common cause of that is a bad ignition transformer. It may have a strong spark but delays on startup. Start and stop the burner 30-40 times. “Making sure it fires every time”. Only let it run for a few seconds, just long enough to fire the burner. Listen for the crackle sound of the spark each time. If you hear it delay just once, replace it. Other causes can be, electrodes not adjusted correctly, cracked porcelain on the electrodes, too much air, wrong nozzle, carbon buildup on air tube or electrodes, burnt air tube, plugged oil system, too much draft.
Scott Taylor Thanks, Scott! Yeah I guess it could be a bunch of things. It only happens a few times a season. My ears are pretty tuned into it. I’ll do a thorough check in the fall. I was working on the burner at my rental that does hot water too so I have to always be watching that one.
What about replacing the pump? Seems overkill being a 2 stage for gravity feed 15 ft away. I’d rather get a cheaper single stage w a Solenoid
The A2VA-7116 pump would work just fine. Why change your pump if you don’t need to though?
Scott Taylor I guess I’m just planning ahead. You’re right. I like to have a plan should it got out in the dead of winter. I subscribed to your channel. I look forward to more of your video drops!! Thanks for the replies!!
scott Taylor is good
trying to go from LP to oil ( house is in the side of a hill and the utility room is up 20' from ground )
is there a pump I can use to get the oil to lift 20+ feet I will be buying a Beckett oil burner???
or can I cut up an old Beckett oil burner and just use the pump to send it to the oil burner 20' up use a relay of some kind ?? with like car brake line (2500 psi ) ??
Douglas Smith Hi Doug thanks for asking. Yes there is an optional two stage fuel pump that can be ordered with the burner or it can be added if you can not purchase it already installed. The first stage of the pump is designed to pull the fuel to the pump,and the second stage builds up the pressure. Ask your dealer for that option. When in doubt, always follow the manufacturers guidelines when choosing a fuel pump to make sure it is capable of doing the necessary job. You can find the pump curves and specifications on their website. www.suntecpumps.com/PDFs/Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.pdf
You could use a day tank.
If you put a Tigerloop off the pump and your unit is say 10' above the bottom of the tank and your using 3/8" supply line would that be easier on the pump and that chart change it's specs?
Harold Perantie thanks for your question Harold it’s a good one. That should not change the performance of the pump. Look at it this way. Your oil line supply is a column of oil that you are trying to lift to a certain height. The fuel pump has to create a certain amount of vacuum to pull that oil to the desired height whether it is going to the pump directly or to a holding tank or a tiger loop witch is essentially a small holding tank. So the fuel pump has to create the correct vacuum or lift to pull that column of oil to the desired height. The advantage of using a tiger loop is that it reduces the flow rate of fuel being sucked through the supply line. A standard residential fuel pump gear set will pull 25 gallons per hour through the pump. Thats all the pump knows, its either on or off. If you have a 1 gallon nozzle then 24 gallons per hour are returning to the tank when using a two pipe system, (a return line). This makes the pump a self priming pump as well. Since there are 25 gallons per hour flowing through the supply line, it creates extra friction because of the flowrate and how clean the fuel lines are, and the viscosity of the fuel. Using the Tiger loop the oil now recirculates in the Tiger loop and only will pull through the supply line the amount of oil equal to the nozzle in the system. In my example 1 gallon per hour will flow through the supply line instead of the 25 gallons when using a two pipe system. The Tiger loop will also allow the pump to self prime. That’s important if you are pulling oil up in Lou of a free-flowing gravity situation. This will also help in extreme cold conditions because of the viscosity of the fuel. If you put too much vacuum on the fuel it will separate called cavitation, so using the Tiger loop will help in this situation. I hope this answers your question.
Is there a pump that I could replace the A2EA-6527 that can handle more vacuum?
Harold Perantie Check this out www.suntecpumps.com/PDFs/Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Check out page l-6. You have a single stage pump. It can only pull 6” hg on a one pipe or 12”hg using two pipe. Anything more than that and you will need a TWO stage fuel unit. This unit can pull 17” hg of vacuum. Do you know the vacuum you have?
Find a pump that meets your specs such as the B2VA-8216. Just make sure the pump can pull the necessary vacuum and your nozzle does not exceed the pumps gear set capacity. Follow the tables on this website. Make sure all the other specs are correct for your application.
Thanks, you have been very helpful.
Good day,
Can I replace my 3450 cleancut with a 1725 suntec? Please respond as its cold tonight. LOL
No it will not work it will not open the cut off valve inside to let Oil come out. It works off of RPM. that would be running too slow.
@@scotttaylor3049 Thank you. I live in the arvtic and not sure if \i can find another cleancut. Have a good day
Thank you, great work.
Alex Ardeleanu 🤠thank you for viewing and leaving a comment
On the vacuum think could mention the it is in inches of mercury (HG).
Thank you Norman for leaving your educational comment. You are correct it is in inches of mercury. If you notice at the very beginning of the video, I state that this is for the advanced journeyman, not for someone just learning the trade. With that in mind I assume you already know the basic principles of what I am talking about so there was no need for me to do a extensive beginner training. Thank you for your concern and pointing that out.
did you finish this series?
Kyle there is a part two to this series. I am not a faithful blogger I only post one or two videos a year. I am so busy but when I get the chance I try to do one. Thank you for your inquiry and I hope it helped.
do you have more videos
Do I need to adjust a pump if replacing with an exact one a2va71-16
Great content, thank you
Dennis Noone The standard use to be 100 PSI to the nozzle, but for years now, in most cases with that pump, it is 140 PSI. Its always a good idea to double check the pressure.
@@scotttaylor5658 so i ll need set it at 100 psi if its at 140?
You need to send it to what the old pump is set at whether it was 100 or 140 psi. If you can’t test the old pump then look at the specs from the manufacture to determine what it should be set at
@@scotttaylor5658 im replacing a pump with an exact replacement a2va71-16, the instruction doesn't say anything about pressure adjusting, the nozzle is .65, cant find any specs its a miller M1sc086a, about 20 years old
Dennis Noone More than likely it’s 100 psi. The new pump should tell you what it set at. If you’re not sure you should test it. the easiest way to do that is to go down to the hardware store and buy a 0 to 200 pressure gauge and adapt the end to 3/16 flare. That’s the size of your nozzle line flexible copper tube on your oil burner. Take that tube with you so you make sure you get the right size. Then screw the gauge on the end of the nozzle line and the other end of the nozzle line to the pump and start it up. Then you can adjust the pump and double check that it’s set properly
Difference model
not all use shaft end to determine rotation. ie ge may use lead end
Soy de guatemala
You are literally just reading whats on the screen. Smh
this is such a weird comment, criticizing a video that youre not obligated to watch. someone took the time out of their day to inform and help others who may be in need. you literally offered nothing of value.