One other important point. You ALWAYS want to subtract the meter lead resistance from your reading.. So, touch the test leads together (in this case, at 200 ohms) you will probably get something around 0.3. If you have 14.8 Ohms for example after stabilizing, subtract the 0.3, giving you an actual reading of 14.5 Ohms. :) This is especially important with more sensitive devices, and can mean the difference between actual replacement, and not replacing when its actually bad. Good video!
@@isaiahpinkerton3445 most of the more recent and higher quality meters do auto calibrate. Biggest thing is just do the 200 ohm setting and touch leads to verify it’s truly “0”. :-)
You are truly a master Chrisfix, you've made me quite proficient in automechanics over the past 5 years.. truly thankful for your tutoring, you are the best.
You forgot to mention that injectors are either high impedance or low impedance. A low impedance injector will have a resistance of around 2.5 to 3 ohms, while a high impedance injector will fall somewhere around 12-18 ohms. Good simple video on how to check 😎
Thanks! I was getting read to remove my injector rails and swap injectors to troubleshoot if injector 4 is bad due to misfiring. This will save me that time and I can quickly check resistance.
Chris you saved me a bunch of money! I used my multimeter to test the injectors on my Chrysler 200C 3.6L. Each tested at 15.0 ohms, except my one trouble cylinder. That one tested at 33.0. Replaced that injector, all my engine warning lights turned off and it's running smooth. Your video very straight forward and the graphics made it easy to understand the discussion. Thanks!!!
Hey man. When u tested your Chrysler 200. You tested it while the fuel rails and injector was still on the vehicle correct? Just have the car off and test it right? I got a Chrysler 300
Christ this got to be an old video because we cannot see the numbers on the meter... YOU KNOW YOU MAKE THE BEST UA-cam AUTOMOTIVE HOW TO VIDEOS IN VIDEOS STEP BY STEP IN THE THE WORLD BRO !😊
+Hector Garcia-Martinez For some reason I cannot reply to your comment so I hope you see this. You need to test your fuel pressure and let me know what happens when the car is warm. Do these tests: Fuel Pressure Test
Tested my injectors based off this video. 3 tested 17.5 and the last one was 17. Thanks so much for making and explaining this how to easy. Keep up the great work.
Great! Glad the video taught you something new! Looks like your injectors are good to go! It is a pretty easy test and kinda neat to see! If you havent already, give the video a thumbs up (it helps me out)!!!
After checking a lot of the other things that can cause lower loss, I found an injector with a different resistance than the rest. I hope it's the only problem. Thanks, A LOT
Dear Chris, I have a 2004 Grand Marquis, (I'm the original owner, about 230,000 miles on the car) and have had an ongoing problem with the engine light coming on after driving the car for a while. Symptoms are rough idle after the car comes to a stop; usually slows down to around 550 rpm, plus or minus after 20 to 30 seconds of coming to a stop, followed by occasional shuddering on acceleration. I've had the car to two mechanics. Before taking it to any mechanics, several months ago I replaced all the plugs and coils. Lately, one mechanic replaced all the plugs, which had less than 11,000 miles. He replaced the number 5 coil. A week later I bought a new air idle control valve and a new throttle position sensor and had him install them. He checked for vacuum leaks and twice he told me he found vacuum leaks. None of these new parts or service have solved the problem. I put a scanner on to see what code appears when the engine light comes on. It's 0355, which is the #5 cylinder. Another mechanic noticed the #5 coil was somewhat loose. He noticed the thread was stripped on the coil bolt, so he dropped a piece of plastic wire tie in the bolt hole of the manifold, and that made the bolt tight. Then he used a couple of plastic wire ties to secure the connector to the coil. He erased the code, and the engine light stayed off, until I drove the car about 20 miles the next day, it came back on. On the last two gas fill ups, I put a bottle of lucas fuel injection cleaner in the tank at each fill up. I also tried spraying contact cleaner on all the coil connectors, and several other electrical connectors. Is there any thing else you might recommend or (GOD FORBID) should I take it to a Ford dealership? Thanks for all the help you give to so many people !!!
Did you get it fixed? I'm fighting a constant cylinder 5 misfire on my 2001 Grand marquis. Same symptoms. Drops to 550 RPM after a long drive / warmed up then sets cylinder 5 misfire.
@@mmiller1188 HI Mike and I'm thrilled that you replied. YES, I got it fixed, and I can probably help you get your problem fixed. I live in Miami, and first I'll tell you I went to about 6 Ford dealers before finding a seventh who fixed the problem. I found a guy on youtube who was a Ford Master Technician, who explained the problem, something the first 6 Ford dealers did not even mention, and did not even suggest. IF you have replaced plugs and coils, and other parts , and you still have misfiring, then your main computer needs to be reprogrammed. First , you need to find a Ford Dealer who will reprogram your main computer. Symptoms of a main computer that needs reprogramming are 1. engine light continues to come back on 2. rough acceleration 3. Eventually the misfiring will shut down your AC compressor , a built in feature that protects the AC compressor. Once the main computer is reprogrammed, that problem will be corrected. It is remotely possible to reprogram your own computer, but probably more complicated that you or I would want to risk. You first would need a bidirectional scanner, which allows you to reprogram your main computer. You would have to purchase a "FORD" subscription when you purchase the bidirectional scanner. Then you would need to know how to to reprogram the computer using the scanner. If you take it to a dealer that will reprogram your main computer, they will check for any bad coil connectors, bad vacuum tubes, or any other problems related to your ignition. Before I knew the main computer could be reprogrammed, I wasted a lot of money on mechanics replacing parts that did nothing to fix the problem. I tried replacing all the plugs and coils, and still had the same problem. IF a dealer tells you that you may need to replace the main computer, I would be skeptical. FIrst ask them if they can reprogram your main computer. If they tell you that can't be done, find another Ford dealer. Pines Ford in Pembroke Pines FL, did mine. The last time I had it there about 2 months ago, they replaced all the coils, replaced two coil connectors, reprogrammed the main computer, total price was 940 dollars. On a previous visit, they replaced a coil and a vacuum tube. IF you know the mileage on your current plugs and coils, if there are a lot of miles on them, then have them replaced before they reprogram the main computer. Ask the dealer to inspect the coil connectors, vacuum tube, etc. if you have your plugs or coils replaced. Let me know if you have any questions, and how things work out.
This is worth a try, my truck has had horrible gas mileage since I bought it. Close to 100 miles per tank, I'm not sure what it's supposed to be rated at. I'll try this tomorrow, great video.
wow, that is basically my truck and I get 18mpg (actually after the plugs and wires replacement and power steering flush, I have been getting 19.6mpg which is my best yet). No check engine lights? How is the idle? At 55mph what rpm are you at?
Let me know. I will have a video coming out on MAF cleaning that might help. Is there any black soot at the end of your exhaust or on the body of the truck by the exhaust (indicating it is running rich)?
Not sure if this is even my problem yet, but I just want to thank you for something very basic yet for some odd reason many fix it videos for various problems that involve checking with a multimeter never tell you what to change the damn switch on the meter to only what it should or should not read so thanks a lot definitely got a subscriber even if this isnt my problem. lol
Also watch out for slow climbing reading if reading takes long to reach stable it is also likely a bad injector another check to do just to figure out what's actually failing is measure from each terminal to injector bodies sometimes it can be the internal wires have shorted to body if no reading across any terminal than there is likely a break in the wire hope this helps.
another great video from Chris , saves money. I guess this test can be done without removing any part from enginer except the injector connector. thumbs up.
hey chris quick thing to note, you should really check the resistance of the meter/test leads by touching the 2 leads together than subtracting that number from your reading (I noted all steps for viewers)
Smashing video chris :-)) For your own interest, touch the probes together and note the stray resistance shown on the meter, then when testing your injectors mentally subtract the stray from your display. Its a habit from being into electronics, not all meters have a "zero" button :-)
Thanks for the video. Helpful for me, working on a 2001 4.6 ford. Getting P305 misfire on cyl 5 & 7. Eight new plugs and new coil packs on 5&7, runs much better but still getting a misfire occasionally. Suspect some type of fuel delivery problem.
This is a good test, but it ONLY tells you if the coil is shorted/bad, it doesn't do a thing to tell you if the injector is clogged or the spring is broken. For that the easiest test is to disconnect the injectors ONE AT A TIME and see if they make a change to the engine or not. The one that DOESN'T make a change to the current sound is likely the bad one, as the working ones are noticeable when they're pulled offline.
I was showing a #3 misfire so I did a complete tune-up. The tune-up made a big improvement but it still shows a #3 misfire even after clearing the codes. A compression test said the engine is fine. The shops want a average of $100 just to diagnose. . One mechanic told me that all these fuel additives don't really "clean" an injector; if an injector is "bad", cleaning it won't help. Interesting. That would mean that all these fuel additive products are a rip-off!! Another shop said they will clean the injectors (without removing them from the engine) for $100. That could possibly be a rip-off too? From what you are saying, I should test the ohms and also the fuel pressure.That sure seems easy and simple enough.
Holly Metcalf It's true, most of those products that you can buy in a bottle aren't really that effective at cleaning your fuel system. While they do contain chemicals such as ether that CAN remove deposits, the problem is they don't remain in contact with the surface of the fuel-delivery system long enough to achieve the desired results. The only way to do this is to remove the injectors and soak them in powerful chemicals and/or mechanically remove the deposits. Consumer Reports did an article on these products a while back, and their conclusion was that these products are a waste of money. CR doesn't take ads (they are supported by subscriptions), so their articles are objective.
Please test and do a how-to on Power Probes. They seem to be head and shoulders above a test light and/or multimeter. Great channel, my windshield is awesome now thanks to you! And I'm just beginning to put your videos into practice.
don't forget to tell people to touch their multi meter probes together when reading impedance, that'll give you an idea how much resistance is coming soley from your leads, which actually adds resistance to the readings.
I have a 96 Cummins Diesel. Can you do an explanation of the difference on a diesel? Mine uses a high pressure pump and lifter pump to aid in regulating and cooling. Love the details in your vids, keep up the great work. Very helpful thank you!
Hey Chris.. you look, sound and know Alot about cars like my Mechanic Chris... Did you boys get messing around with the Cloning machine again? 😆 Awesome stuff buddy 😁 I can't explain things like you guys are blessed with. 👌
Hopefully you are still monitoring questions?! 2005 Pt Cruiser GT 2.4 Turbo: showing p0203, p0032 and p0038. I see that 32/38 are related to o2 sensors, I am going to test injectors later today, but do you think it's possible that if there is a failed injector, could this be leading to the o2 sensor related codes? Thanks
Dang 10 years later and this video just saved me $300 from a tow and diagnosis. Chrisfix will always be a legend!!
You are a great teacher - it's so fast like being taught in the matrix with a software install
One other important point.
You ALWAYS want to subtract the meter lead resistance from your reading.. So, touch the test leads together (in this case, at 200 ohms) you will probably get something around 0.3. If you have 14.8 Ohms for example after stabilizing, subtract the 0.3, giving you an actual reading of 14.5 Ohms. :) This is especially important with more sensitive devices, and can mean the difference between actual replacement, and not replacing when its actually bad. Good video!
Good point, but i think the manufacturers account for that user error and people who need to measure more sensitive devices know this, already.
@@isaiahpinkerton3445 most of the more recent and higher quality meters do auto calibrate.
Biggest thing is just do the 200 ohm setting and touch leads to verify it’s truly “0”.
:-)
testing leads read 5.1 testing the injector read 16.5 so 11.4 is the result. Is this the correct reading?
Hey, my injectors are showing 0.8 ohms, is that normal? Low resistance injectors?
You are truly a master Chrisfix, you've made me quite proficient in automechanics over the past 5 years.. truly thankful for your tutoring, you are the best.
You forgot to mention that injectors are either high impedance or low impedance. A low impedance injector will have a resistance of around 2.5 to 3 ohms, while a high impedance injector will fall somewhere around 12-18 ohms. Good simple video on how to check 😎
Well that would fall under the whole looking up the impedance for your specific injectors thing that he mentioned.
Thanks! I was getting read to remove my injector rails and swap injectors to troubleshoot if injector 4 is bad due to misfiring.
This will save me that time and I can quickly check resistance.
I love the simple straight to the point short answer for what i was looking for!!! Thank you Chris.
Chris you saved me a bunch of money! I used my multimeter to test the injectors on my Chrysler 200C 3.6L. Each tested at 15.0 ohms, except my one trouble cylinder. That one tested at 33.0. Replaced that injector, all my engine warning lights turned off and it's running smooth. Your video very straight forward and the graphics made it easy to understand the discussion. Thanks!!!
Hey man. When u tested your Chrysler 200. You tested it while the fuel rails and injector was still on the vehicle correct? Just have the car off and test it right? I got a Chrysler 300
Christ this got to be an old video because we cannot see the numbers on the meter... YOU KNOW YOU MAKE THE BEST UA-cam AUTOMOTIVE HOW TO VIDEOS IN VIDEOS STEP BY STEP IN THE THE WORLD BRO !😊
+Hector Garcia-Martinez For some reason I cannot reply to your comment so I hope you see this. You need to test your fuel pressure and let me know what happens when the car is warm. Do these tests: Fuel Pressure Test
Hey ChrisFix what is the brand/model of that multimeter? I'm pretty new to doing repairs on my car, and that tool looks all kinds of useful ✌
@@@jaicabryizky6987 its a cen-tech from harborfreight they also have different models inexpensive and such a great tool hope this helps you
Now i have found my favourite youtube diy channel. Keep it up chris!
Tested my injectors based off this video. 3 tested 17.5 and the last one was 17. Thanks so much for making and explaining this how to easy. Keep up the great work.
Great! Glad the video taught you something new! Looks like your injectors are good to go! It is a pretty easy test and kinda neat to see! If you havent already, give the video a thumbs up (it helps me out)!!!
Amazingly simple stuff and brilliant guide. Thank you!
+Pawel Tulik No problem! Glad you liked the video!
After checking a lot of the other things that can cause lower loss, I found an injector with a different resistance than the rest. I hope it's the only problem. Thanks, A LOT
This helped me out today. Never did fuel injectors thank you
I love the fact that your vids are simple straght to the point
That is ChrisFix for you. He is THE BEST
Dear Chris, I have a 2004 Grand Marquis, (I'm the original owner, about 230,000 miles on the car) and have had an ongoing problem with the engine light coming on after driving the car for a while. Symptoms are rough idle after the car comes to a stop; usually slows down to around 550 rpm, plus or minus after 20 to 30 seconds of coming to a stop, followed by occasional shuddering on acceleration. I've had the car to two mechanics. Before taking it to any mechanics, several months ago I replaced all the plugs and coils. Lately, one mechanic replaced all the plugs, which had less than 11,000 miles. He replaced the number 5 coil. A week later I bought a new air idle control valve and a new throttle position sensor and had him install them. He checked for vacuum leaks and twice he told me he found vacuum leaks. None of these new parts or service have solved the problem.
I put a scanner on to see what code appears when the engine light comes on. It's 0355, which is the #5 cylinder. Another mechanic noticed the #5 coil was somewhat loose. He noticed the thread was stripped on the coil bolt, so he dropped a piece of plastic wire tie in the bolt hole of the manifold, and that made the bolt tight. Then he used a couple of plastic wire ties to secure the connector to the coil. He erased the code, and the engine light stayed off, until I drove the car about 20 miles the next day, it came back on. On the last two gas fill ups, I put a bottle of lucas fuel injection cleaner in the tank at each fill up. I also tried spraying contact cleaner on all the coil connectors, and several other electrical connectors.
Is there any thing else you might recommend or (GOD FORBID) should I take it to a Ford dealership?
Thanks for all the help you give to so many people !!!
Did you get it fixed? I'm fighting a constant cylinder 5 misfire on my 2001 Grand marquis. Same symptoms. Drops to 550 RPM after a long drive / warmed up then sets cylinder 5 misfire.
@@mmiller1188 HI Mike and I'm thrilled that you replied. YES, I got it fixed, and I can probably help you get your problem fixed. I live in Miami, and first I'll tell you I went to about 6 Ford dealers before finding a seventh who fixed the problem. I found a guy on youtube who was a Ford Master Technician, who explained the problem, something the first 6 Ford dealers did not even mention, and did not even suggest. IF you have replaced plugs and coils, and other parts , and you still have misfiring, then your main computer needs to be reprogrammed. First , you need to find a Ford Dealer who will reprogram your main computer. Symptoms of a main computer that needs reprogramming are 1. engine light continues to come back on 2. rough acceleration 3. Eventually the misfiring will shut down your AC compressor , a built in feature that protects the AC compressor. Once the main computer is reprogrammed, that problem will be corrected. It is remotely possible to reprogram your own computer, but probably more complicated that you or I would want to risk. You first would need a bidirectional scanner, which allows you to reprogram your main computer. You would have to purchase a "FORD" subscription when you purchase the bidirectional scanner. Then you would need to know how to to reprogram the computer using the scanner.
If you take it to a dealer that will reprogram your main computer, they will check for any bad coil connectors, bad vacuum tubes, or any other problems related to your ignition. Before I knew the main computer could be reprogrammed, I wasted a lot of money on mechanics replacing parts that did nothing to fix the problem. I tried replacing all the plugs and coils, and still had the same problem. IF a dealer tells you that you may need to replace the main computer, I would be skeptical. FIrst ask them if they can reprogram your main computer. If they tell you that can't be done, find another Ford dealer. Pines Ford in Pembroke Pines FL, did mine. The last time I had it there about 2 months ago, they replaced all the coils, replaced two coil connectors, reprogrammed the main computer, total price was 940 dollars. On a previous visit, they replaced a coil and a vacuum tube. IF you know the mileage on your current plugs and coils,
if there are a lot of miles on them, then have them replaced before they reprogram the main computer. Ask the dealer to inspect the coil connectors, vacuum tube, etc. if you have your plugs or coils replaced.
Let me know if you have any questions, and how things work out.
there's a valid reason why you have over 8 millions subs Chris. You're one of the best at what you do!
This is worth a try, my truck has had horrible gas mileage since I bought it. Close to 100 miles per tank, I'm not sure what it's supposed to be rated at.
I'll try this tomorrow, great video.
What truck? What year? How many miles? Have you tried this: How to Check for Bad Spark Plug Wires
ChrisFix it's a 1999 Ford ranger 4.0l v6, 4x4 with 140,000 miles. I have replaced the spark plugs and wires.
wow, that is basically my truck and I get 18mpg (actually after the plugs and wires replacement and power steering flush, I have been getting 19.6mpg which is my best yet). No check engine lights? How is the idle? At 55mph what rpm are you at?
ChrisFix No there haven't been any check engine lights yet, the idle sounds normal. I would have to check the rpm sometime.
Let me know. I will have a video coming out on MAF cleaning that might help. Is there any black soot at the end of your exhaust or on the body of the truck by the exhaust (indicating it is running rich)?
I can't stop tutorial videos like yours very informative and interesting
Like the way this guy explains things so simple. Cool tutorial bro.
Just want to say thanks for the video. Showed me what I needed to no to test my injectors on my Jeep
Hey Chris! You've saved me over a thousand dollars! Thanks buddy.
Good for you. That's awesome!
You are a big help to me Chris. You add alot to my automotive aptitude.
I just want to thank you for your video, helped me to diagnose a bad injector.
***** Awesome! I am glad my video helped! Good work! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Enjoyed this video- have same multimeter as Chris, it worked exactly as he demonstrated- thanks...
You do this so well Chris ,simple and to the point ,cuts through much of the mystery of all these feed back systems cars now have?
Thanks for the help!
Love it that I googled a problem and fixid sent me to my favorite UA-camr !
You are a legend with your well rehearsed "How To"s. thanks man !
Thanks for sharing this i can't wait till tomorrow so I can test my 4.0 I6 jeep. Seems so easy. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida
The was a very useful video. I was able to test and replace my bad fuel injector!
Not sure if this is even my problem yet, but I just want to thank you for something very basic yet for some odd reason many fix it videos for various problems that involve checking with a multimeter never tell you what to change the damn switch on the meter to only what it should or should not read so thanks a lot definitely got a subscriber even if this isnt my problem. lol
You made two videos in one day? As much as I would love two videos, the quality is is worth the wait.
Thank you for explaining everything in simple terms
Also watch out for slow climbing reading if reading takes long to reach stable it is also likely a bad injector another check to do just to figure out what's actually failing is measure from each terminal to injector bodies sometimes it can be the internal wires have shorted to body if no reading across any terminal than there is likely a break in the wire hope this helps.
Thanks for fixing it Bro so we can see the numbers!
This is a really helpful video of yours which serves it's purpose even now.
Thanx Chrisfix.
I love short and to the point videos! (plus it's totally logical advice) 👍👍👍
another great video from Chris , saves money. I guess this test can be done without removing any part from enginer except the injector connector. thumbs up.
+hypertuch Thanks a lot bud! You dont have to remove the fuel rail and intake. I just happened to have it taken out of my car so I used it.
You have done a good job man big up❤
Great video Chris clearly showing how to test. Thanks :)
Thanks man, good job! Fast and quick to the point.
hey chris quick thing to note, you should really check the resistance of the meter/test leads by touching the 2 leads together than subtracting that number from your reading (I noted all steps for viewers)
jljr1998 Even so you would probably still measure within tolerance of the injectors specification. A bad one will deviate a lot more than 0.5 Ohm
Nice job Chris you always do such a great job on your videos.
Even way back when you were and are great! Thanks Chris for the priceless info!
Thanks and glad the video was helpful!
Awesome video. I need to test my injectors! I'd like to see how close each injector is to each other. Thanks and great video as usual!
Thanks! Yea, I was curious of how how close my injectors resistance was to each other too!
Smashing video chris :-))
For your own interest, touch the probes together and note the stray resistance shown on the meter, then when testing your injectors mentally subtract the stray from your display.
Its a habit from being into electronics, not all meters have a "zero" button :-)
Awesome tip! Thanks bud!
Appreciate you sharing this. Helped me alot. Very quick and easy explanation.
you are among the best.
im not surprised if soon you will hit 10m subs.
Really good the way you explain ,step by step.
Thanks for the video. Helpful for me, working on a 2001 4.6 ford. Getting P305 misfire on cyl 5 & 7. Eight new plugs and new coil packs on 5&7, runs much better but still getting a misfire occasionally. Suspect some type of fuel delivery problem.
Kevin N Could be injectors. I would change out your fuel filter if you havent already.
This is a good test, but it ONLY tells you if the coil is shorted/bad, it doesn't do a thing to tell you if the injector is clogged or the spring is broken. For that the easiest test is to disconnect the injectors ONE AT A TIME and see if they make a change to the engine or not. The one that DOESN'T make a change to the current sound is likely the bad one, as the working ones are noticeable when they're pulled offline.
Ryan do I do that while the engine is running? Thanks, Becky
That still doesn't tell you if it's clogged or shorted just that it is bad lol.
Прекрасно видео. Поднесено е изключително професионално, лаконично и много, много точно. Благодаря! Успехи и нови очаквания!
Иванов Н. Oh, totally bro. I hear ya -- we all hear what you're saying.
Thank you👍...always know that he has an answer😊good man!👍
I was showing a #3 misfire so I did a complete tune-up. The tune-up made a big improvement but it still shows a #3 misfire even after clearing the codes. A compression test said the engine is fine. The shops want a average of $100 just to diagnose. . One mechanic told me that all these fuel additives don't really "clean" an injector; if an injector is "bad", cleaning it won't help. Interesting. That would mean that all these fuel additive products are a rip-off!! Another shop said they will clean the injectors (without removing them from the engine) for $100. That could possibly be a rip-off too? From what you are saying, I should test the ohms and also the fuel pressure.That sure seems easy and simple enough.
Holly Metcalf It's true, most of those products that you can buy in a bottle aren't really that effective at cleaning your fuel system. While they do contain chemicals such as ether that CAN remove deposits, the problem is they don't remain in contact with the surface of the fuel-delivery system long enough to achieve the desired results. The only way to do this is to remove the injectors and soak them in powerful chemicals and/or mechanically remove the deposits. Consumer Reports did an article on these products a while back, and their conclusion was that these products are a waste of money. CR doesn't take ads (they are supported by subscriptions), so their articles are objective.
It is great to have someone out there with such God given talents. Well done! dude :0) and thank you so very much.
+Happy Murray Thanks! Glad the videos are helpful!
Best toturials!! Thank you ❤
Thanks Chris - 5 minutes ago I didn't know dick about injectors .... now, I'm going to test my injectors in the morning. (For Free)
aljoe Awesome! That is why I make these videos!
Thanks for taking the time, good straight video
best video, simple and easy. you are the best
Excellent chris ,you gave me an idea i check the ohms of all the injectors and reject the cuckoo 😅
Please test and do a how-to on Power Probes. They seem to be head and shoulders above a test light and/or multimeter. Great channel, my windshield is awesome now thanks to you! And I'm just beginning to put your videos into practice.
Great video Chris, not surprised you got 5.6M subs, wow!
Straight to the point good video.
As usual it's nice video, Chris.I like much your way of educating like us beginners.Keep Spirit Up
Thanks so much. I'm going to do it today
Let me know how this goes!
I think one of my fuel injectors is bad because of an occasional cylinder misfire. Good to know I can test the injectors to make sure
Great teaching
If that $7 Harbor Freight multimeter is good enough for Chris Fix, it’s good enough for me!
don't forget to tell people to touch their multi meter probes together when reading impedance, that'll give you an idea how much resistance is coming soley from your leads, which actually adds resistance to the readings.
Love your vids. Short and sweet.
Dont remembrer. I check tomorrow and I let u know. Gonna keep working on it. That code is driving me crazy. Can't find the problem. Lol. Thanks allot
Ruben No problem! Keep me posted!
This guy is awesome
Thanks a lot!
Great video man. Your videos have really helped me a lot.
Great! Glad the videos have been helpful!
What is the resistence on a ignition coil..man...by the way....your videos are bad ass...you that men buddy...
I see you shop at harbor freight also. Can't beat the price. A multimeter for 7 bucks.
Very useful information...thanks Chris..!!
Is there a video on how to clean injectors?
Thanks a lot! I'm planning on doing that soon! Stay tuneeeed!
Never disappoint, sir! Tx for the video!
Another great video thanks Chris
Good stuff
How to know if we have injector are leaking down or cloged ıs there any test for that? Thank you for your great videos
I have a 96 Cummins Diesel. Can you do an explanation of the difference on a diesel? Mine uses a high pressure pump and lifter pump to aid in regulating and cooling. Love the details in your vids, keep up the great work. Very helpful thank you!
Myles Aston Thanks a lot! If I get a diesel car or truck to work on, I will make a video explaining some differences.
Fantastic information!
theses are awesome videos! any chance you have one testing an ignition coil?
Hey Chris.. you look, sound and know Alot about cars like my Mechanic Chris... Did you boys get messing around with the Cloning machine again? 😆
Awesome stuff buddy 😁 I can't explain things like you guys are blessed with. 👌
Hopefully you are still monitoring questions?! 2005 Pt Cruiser GT 2.4 Turbo: showing p0203, p0032 and p0038. I see that 32/38 are related to o2 sensors, I am going to test injectors later today, but do you think it's possible that if there is a failed injector, could this be leading to the o2 sensor related codes? Thanks
P0203 3rd is injector I guess the injector dosent opening
The problem is you're driving a PT cruiser
Definitely helpful 🤘🏾🤘🏾 hopefully this stops my misfiring after replacing the spark plugs
Thanks for the lesson!! Good info!
thank you. I will check this out in my Toyota.
Thanks Chris , great video ❤
thanks great video and explanation..
Verrrryyyyy good videos ChrisFix thank you so much for helping out
You know all the good stuff...thanks for sharing!
Haha, thanks man!
ChrisFix Dude, where is your car?
Thanks for this tip it really helps
Awesome video Chris always helpful!!!!
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful!
Could this be the reason why my car vibrates bad when idle? That's the only time it vibrates though. Awesome videos!
Keep up the good work
Thank you Sir, very helpful.
Great vid Chris.👍
well done explanation, cheers.