Chris, I to am 65 y/o like your videos....When I change spark plug wires I mark the cap & wires with paper tape and number them so I don't get them mixed up....this is for people who may get the turned all around...
im 68......and still remember , me stripping down my 62 ss impala blk/red... and me and the boys pushing it up the driveway....and leaving it under the Penn railroad trestle in J Hts Q Ny one summer day... my point,,,,,,,Ahhhhhhhh hhhhhmmmmmmmm,,,, ...I forget.... butt keep on doing what you do...
Thank you so much for your name is jobs that the errors in hand to be a good day at our place. Florida State Tyler Johnson said the errors in hand to be a good day at work
Awesome video. Worked on cars throughout the 80's into the early 90's. Carburetors, distributors, etc. Then I lost my garage due to divorce. Didn't open a hood for 20 years. When I finally did I didn't even know what I was looking at. Went to work and learned these ECM controlled engines. Now I'm doing my own work again. Thanks a lot for your awesome content!! New sub here!!
Thank you so much Chris, I had a very rough idle and bucking at 70mph. Troubleshooted and replaced parts after parts for 3 full days with no luck. Just a hour ago I did your spray water test and discovered one lead was burned by the exhaust with no insulation left, and was grounding out! Thank you so much!!!!!
Fantastic how-to. Thorough explanation, great demonstration of concepts and techniques. You aren't just showing how to do these tests, you are showing how to show things.
The best teachers a more than just good at the craft. They're also good at relaying information. That's why you can have working professionals be some of the most useless teachers. Despite being a Master of their Craft.
I love your channel. Your guides have helped me not only with my daily driver, but, also with my classic project car. I'm currently replacing ignition wires on my project car. It's a 1959 Ford Fairlane Galaxie 500 that was owned by my Grandfather. It has been garage kept but hasn't been run since the mid 1960's. Thank you for your content!
Nobody else has ever diagnosed the high pitch radio nois! Now I know why I heard that the other day, thanks. Will change the spark plug wires, plugs, and ignition coils soon, before the 100k mark, car is at 85k currently and yesterday just heard that radio high pitch noise
Hey man you’re awesome I’ve done so much work on my car and saved thousands thanks to your videos , I can’t seem to figure out why my AC keeps coming on and off and it gets worse when it’s cold outside
+Hector Garcia-Martinez, I cannot reply to your comment for some reason, but you can check your spark plugs visually. I will make a video on this but for now, look at the ceramic and make sure it isnt cracked, look at the tip of the plug and make sure it is gapped right, and look to make sure there arent too many carbon deposits on it. It sounds like you got platinum plugs which last 100k miles so dont worry. I had plugs from the factory in my van for 200k miles before they were changed and she ran fine. You will experience a rough idle, hesitation, etc when your plugs are starting to go.
@@chrisfix sir, my car i20 has 2 separate coil packs controlled by 2 wires connector which controls 2 high output terminals. However, one high terminal pin 4 of first coil gives less spark than pin 1 on the same coil pack. Why such less spark being provided by the same primary coil??
Chris this is Steve from Annapolis you're outstanding I wish I was as smart as you and I was younger keep up the good work thank you for the videos it really helps me out I got to swallow my pride even though I think I know a lot mechanically
Hey Chris, Let me tell you a story lol My engine purs. Happy little 1.6 petrol. Got my timing belt changed and it suddenly idles like a bag of crap. There's a tick coming from the carb. The engine makes light pops, sometimes the whole car shakes. The rpm bounces around 800-900 on this ~1 second rhythm. During this time, I noticed when I change gear the rpm lingers a second before it drops. I took one lead out at a time to see if the idle changed at all, no such luck. Rest of the rpm range is pretty smooth, car feels roughly as powerful as it was. So I drive it for a few days when it starts idling at 2,000 rpm. The exhaust gases are way hot, temp is above normal. Possible hint of petrol on the exhaust too, hard to tell. Sometimes, I can use the clutch, slow it down and it stays down, sometimes only letting it go cold stops it. Now, I'm of the impression this guy screwed up the timing belt. He tells me it's the leads and the injectors. Any thoughts?
Excellent and glad you showed that a multimeter has more purpose then just showing battery voltage lol. My friends been bugging me to buy one or use my “ohm” meter. I let him wait a bit since he’s a pain in my butt and went over and said I’ll bring it. I got there there and said “hey can u grab your multimeter just wanna make sure they read the same voltage on battery” Then I switched to ohm “20,000” and tested his allis chalmers tractor wires and various other electronic components. “I heard him say” “you a** hole”. Lol. I just smiled and told him to use the inter web lol Great vid. Like from me. Lifetime ASE certified mechanic
@@chrisfix sir, my car i20 has 2 separate coil packs controlled by 2 wires connector which controls 2 high output terminals. However, one high terminal pin 4 of first coil gives less spark than pin 1 on the same coil pack. Why such less spark being provided by the same primary coil??
Hey Chris, thanks for another great video. I have a 1980 camaro with a 383 stroker that I built. I keep burning plug wires which results in a cracked insulation on them. Headers get real hot and just happens over time. Even with Kevlar boots they still do this. Eventually tried header wrap combined with the hoot and haven't burned one since
Great video. Another subscriber here now! I never thought of the mist test. I had an intermittent miss that wouldn't throw a code since it wasn't exceeding the threshold for the number of misses the ECU needs to rigger that code. I changed the rear coil pack due to the connector on the coil being loose but still functional. The miss went away. The coil was working fine but I did reroute/move ALL of the wires to do this. I bet I have a insulation breakdown somewhere and I've already bought new Motorcraft wires and plugs anyway so I figure 21 years (98' ranger) and 243K miles on the original wires isn't bad. OEM stuff really lasts! I have no idea how long the plugs have been in so they need to go anyway. Bet it runs like a new engine! Thanks for your time making these vids. They are helpful for the DIY'er.
Thanks a bunch. Super video. My boat engine (2 cycle) has old plug wires that have "tarnish" on the terminals. I have replaced two of them. It seemed to help my engine run a bit smoother but there is an occasional miss or rough idling. I believe I'll replace the other four wires as well.
I like how your older videos sounded like you just woke up and started recording, and your newer videos sound like you just discovered coffee getting all fired up to do car repair videos.
Hi Chris, I have a bit of a bother I hope you can help with. Car is a 2003 Chevy Tracker. I bought her used, my first car. Started and ran great, no problems. Only issues were it needed some minor suspension work, and the gas tank leaked if you filled it over half. The previous owner's solution was to simply never fill it over half. I wanted to do better by the car than that, so I ordered a brand new gas tank, along with the suspension parts and took it to my mechanic (family has used him for ~20 years). I figured, given the previous owner's lack of maintenance, I'd have all new iridium plugs put in (the manual calls for either iridium or nickel). After the work was done, she was rough starting, and constantly stalls if you don't manually keep the RPMs at or above 2000. We tried replacing the catalytic converter & O2 sensors, no joy. New PCV valve, no change. IAC is clear. I installed a brand new air filter 300 miles prior to bringing it in for the tank and plug change. Mechanic insists the plugs are gapped properly (they were pre-gapped at the factory and he says they checked out fine). They're in a coil pack, and the wires weren't touched, only a plug change, so the firing order as I understand it could not have been fouled. Computer is throwing codes for barometric pressure sensor, knock sensor, and mass air flow sensor. Replacing all of them would cost over $300, with no guarantee that the sensors all suddenly failed at once. I realize it's really hard without physically examining the car, but do you have any ideas? Could the plugs have somehow mysteriously gone bad? I'm starting my own (non-automotive) hardware installation business, and need to be able to drive to my customers. At this point, I've $2,500 in the car, which ran great when I brought it in, and now is essentially a lawn ornament that can sometimes unreliably drive somewhere (roughly, loudly, and with a horrible smell). Thanks, Alex in MT
I changed my coil and spark plgus but car didn't work properly. So i tested the wires like u did with multimeter and one of the wire were broken. Thank you for the video, helped me a lot.
outstanding! very useful. Im going to now try the NIGHT SPRAY technique. Ive been chasing down misfire issues..... and Ive elimated just about *everything* save for the wires.
This guy is great. Like everyone need to be like him. Step by step. Most just make a video and send it out lol idk if they every review their stuff. Or rehearse it nothing wrong with that.
a tried and true method ive used for decades if you have a miss is if you are afraid of getting zapped put on a leather glove and pull off each wire from the distributor to see if there is a bad wire/plug. if you pull it off if its bad it will not make a change and a consistent miss on a cylinder. now swap over a wire and see if it comes to life. if it does not- change the one plug. if it comes to life replace the plug or all of them. checking ohms on wires does not mean much since the resistance varies greatly even on different brands. unless you spot a wire that is WAY different than the others. many types of wires have very high resistance so the voltage has to build up to give a hotter spark--same as resistance spark plugs. if you have truly wild random misses also take off cap and check for moisture or conductive dust. but wires is always a top suspicion and they can and will be bad out of the box--ive had it happen and got my money back and put on odd brand and problem was gone. In the southwest the dust has iron and other stuff in it and is VERY conductive. if you find bad wire or plug should you replace them all? NO--not unless you are rich and you know they are old or if they LOOK old. remember the other plugs and wires are CONFIRMED good. that being said if they look old and car has issues by all means replace all plugs and wires as a start such as after buying used car.
if you pull off wire from distibutor and spark is long as you increase the distance? and the cylinder comes to life? plug and wire are both suspicious but will be one or both. that is because the very high voltage is now firing the cylinder.
I should try this with my outboard motor. One of my small outboard can't get over 3000rpm or high speed. In visual the cable somewhere crack and looking bad. I should perform the multimeter test for it Thanks for your great tips! Really clear to show how to do for me as i am new for engines.
I love this video, the way you explained things to details. My problem is I just bought spark plugs and wires not too long ago and two of them will not connect at all on my tester and read anything, so I'm going to try that SPARK in the DARK method. 😂
This was freaking awesomeI Great video!! I really got a kick out of your Water Miss Test.and your Multi meter part really help me understand the Mult imeter. I was lost in school about the different functions. And we all know how important Electronics and testing them on vehicles are now a days. I'm gonna go check if you have a video on how to use it fully. Thank you again for these uploads!!
I had 1 bad plug wire and experienced CYL 2 MISFIRE, TRANSMISSION SLIPPING, OVERHEATING ENGINE. Radiator guy wanted to replace the radiator. Transmission guy wanted to fix the transmission. After checking the plugs, coil packs and wires, I replaced the wires for $29.00 from Amazon. No more problems.
One thing to note, I have a new Fluke 323 tester and bought a new set of spark plug wires after my meter was showing an open line on the coil to distributor wire. I checked the new wire and got the same open line reading. I went to the specs on my meter to find out it only reads to 4000 ohms so it is completely useless for checking spark plug wires. The cheap multi-meter I had before that broke had a much higher resistance reading capability before it broke of course. I thought I was doing good by going with a quality brand tool, I just can't win.
My mechanic by mistake clamped one of the spark plug wires and it dented a bit, after he was working on the car and i tested it, i noticed that the car works iradically when I tried to press the gas pedal, and my fuel economy decreased. Could it be that that small dent in the wire damaged it inside, and yea the wires were brand new before i gave the car to the mechanic. Thank u in advance, and your videos are so helpful!!!😊
Video gold I bet my s10 miss is because of damn spark wires Whole s10 community has this problem about missing/stalling after short amount of time stopped Will post again if it fixes
Hello Chris. Thanks for the videos man, you always make them full of helpful info and simple explained. I have erratic idle and that's "killing" me. It's interesting you pointing out about the high pitch radio noise. Its like 1 year that I hear that noise from time to time and I have thought it might come from some air conditioning tubes or valves. Sometimes I hear the noise even if my sound system is off. Does this noise definitely indicate that the coil wires are to be replaced?
I love the video, but, u checked ohm’s on the cables and one was good and the other was within specs but u didn’t say ‘what’ the specs are that I should be looking for? What # is good and what’s bad? Also, in the water spray test, you showed the sparking but u never went back and identified what was causing it? Prolly a plug wire but u never went back during the day to the exact spot u saw sparking at night and said this is where I saw the sparking, this area, and here’s what was causing it?? I’m not trying to beat ya up, just my opinion that’s it, for what it’s worth. Thank you for ur help!!
I hope you still read comments on old videos, but I haven't tried the mist test yet as I don't have the spray. I will try to go and get one but if you could help me now that would be nice, as the mechanic has said nothing is wrong (not tune up?). Basically I drive a manual transmission car that I got second hand. After a month or so from the beginning of this year, it started having problems where it would stall randomly even though either I was driving or had the clutch pressed in fully. Although this problem was small, it has since gotten worse (i.e. stalled 5 times within 5 mins in a carpark, and shook violently whilst in third gear). My mechanic didn't bother to find out what it is, but when he drove it he said it was fine. However, it is an on and off thing, where it just randomly starts acting up then its fine after a while. I've tried turning AC off (makes it better) and let it warm up for 10 mins or so but it still happens. It would be greatly appreciated if you could help as nothing I've found on the internet has helped so far. Thank you!
Smashing tutorial chris :-)) Those wires looked 4000 years old lol, i would imagine the carbon string through the center would be very well past its sell by date :-) Also some spark plugs have a 5k resistor inside, and for older screw on caps they often have a 5k inside, but im now stating the bloody obvious lol. The meter you used can be got off ebay very cheaply with the Dt830 or M830 model numbers, yellow and black is typical.
This is a great video. Thanks i like how you show the detail in the multimeter. I just have one question you said the bad wire was the one that read 10 thousand ohms and the good wire was approx. 500-600 ohms. The higher in ohms like 800-900 is a bad wire and the less ohms is a good plug?? Mine were between 600-700 is thst good or bad???
Moving the spark plug lead at around 4:40, and checking the resistance, is not really a good test. If your test leads loose contact to the metal for a just sec, you can get an infinite reading (the lonely 1 as fist digit). For this test to work properly, you have to fix your test leads with clamps, and make absolutely sure that contact with the metal is not broken, when moving the lead around. Otherwise, good solid advice.
Really appreciate your videos, Chris! Always very informative and very well done. I hope you're making some good income off of these, as it's well deserved. I'm going to check my wires using your methods, but is there a general rule as far as mileage goes as to when you should replace them? Answers to that are all over the map online. I have a '97 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.4 liter that I just put head gaskets on and it seems to be running slightly sluggishly since the rebuild. Of course, I parked it and waited two years to repair it after one blew, so for all I know it runs no different than before! Gotten used to the new car maybe. I put fuel stabilizer in when I parked it and have now run several fresh tanks through it and replaced the fuel filter, as well, which seemed to help slightly. New plugs were installed right before the head gasket going. Thanks in advance!
Very nice information share your of all of to words it's true information sir and keep it up thankyou so much sir and iam waiting for the new again next video and May God bless you and your s all friends and family members thanks sir
ricecarkiller Thanks a lot man! I do my best to make my videos a one stop shop! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
Hey Chris do you always recommend changing the spark plug wires when you change the spark plugs? Also the lower the omes of resistance the better they are?
Need to check spark plug wires and did UA-cam search and your video was first result 😁. Thanks for the info, btw did not know that wires had that much resistance hehe but okay I never worked arraound cars hehe besides fuses check, car stereo connectors wiring (with Google help 😎) and such hehe.
Chris, I'm about 65 years old and working on cars were long time and I would like to say you're doing a great job on the videos.
Keith Lamport Thanks a lot Keith! I appreciate your feedback!
You are right sir,
Chris, I to am 65 y/o like your videos....When I change spark plug wires I mark the cap & wires with paper tape and number them so I don't get them mixed up....this is for people who may get the turned all around...
im 68......and still remember , me stripping down my 62 ss impala blk/red... and me and the boys pushing it up the driveway....and leaving it under the Penn railroad trestle in J Hts Q Ny one summer day... my point,,,,,,,Ahhhhhhhh hhhhhmmmmmmmm,,,, ...I forget.... butt keep on doing what you do...
Thank you so much for your name is jobs that the errors in hand to be a good day at our place. Florida State Tyler Johnson said the errors in hand to be a good day at work
Awesome video. Worked on cars throughout the 80's into the early 90's. Carburetors, distributors, etc. Then I lost my garage due to divorce. Didn't open a hood for 20 years. When I finally did I didn't even know what I was looking at. Went to work and learned these ECM controlled engines. Now I'm doing my own work again. Thanks a lot for your awesome content!! New sub here!!
👍👍👍👍
Divorce can take the wind out of your sail for sure. Been there.
That spray bottle trick was a good idea! I saw sparks and then tested my wires with an ohm meter and saw they were bad! Thanks a lot!
Thanks and glad you diagnosed your wires!
i licked mine and got killed
What's should the reading be?
That water test saved me a huge headache! Been tiring to diagnose a misfire on my Mazda Lantis for ages!
Water test is for sure the best method i have ever seen. Little cracks can't hide from water. Thank you for the great info.
@Mr Hansen it isn't lazy to be logical and save yourself some time. More like the fastest method.
Thank you so much Chris, I had a very rough idle and bucking at 70mph.
Troubleshooted and replaced parts after parts for 3 full days with no luck.
Just a hour ago I did your spray water test and discovered one lead was burned by the exhaust with no insulation left, and was grounding out!
Thank you so much!!!!!
Fantastic how-to. Thorough explanation, great demonstration of concepts and techniques. You aren't just showing how to do these tests, you are showing how to show things.
The best teachers a more than just good at the craft.
They're also good at relaying information.
That's why you can have working professionals be some of the most useless teachers. Despite being a Master of their Craft.
I love your channel. Your guides have helped me not only with my daily driver, but, also with my classic project car.
I'm currently replacing ignition wires on my project car. It's a 1959 Ford Fairlane Galaxie 500 that was owned by my Grandfather. It has been garage kept but hasn't been run since the mid 1960's.
Thank you for your content!
Nobody else has ever diagnosed the high pitch radio nois! Now I know why I heard that the other day, thanks. Will change the spark plug wires, plugs, and ignition coils soon, before the 100k mark, car is at 85k currently and yesterday just heard that radio high pitch noise
I'm glad the video was helpful!
As a fellow Jersey guy, you are the best "go to guy" for automotive repair and knowledge. Hope to meet someday.
Hey man you’re awesome I’ve done so much work on my car and saved thousands thanks to your videos , I can’t seem to figure out why my AC keeps coming on and off and it gets worse when it’s cold outside
+Hector Garcia-Martinez, I cannot reply to your comment for some reason, but you can check your spark plugs visually. I will make a video on this but for now, look at the ceramic and make sure it isnt cracked, look at the tip of the plug and make sure it is gapped right, and look to make sure there arent too many carbon deposits on it. It sounds like you got platinum plugs which last 100k miles so dont worry. I had plugs from the factory in my van for 200k miles before they were changed and she ran fine. You will experience a rough idle, hesitation, etc when your plugs are starting to go.
Ok. Thank you..
ChrisFix m
ChrisFix c
ChrisFix Scott said u are wrong on another video what's up with that 🙄
I have question. Right now I have spark plug 16mm (hex size). Can I put 21mm (hex size) spark plug ?
You are my teacher for automotive. ..thank you so much for your kindness to share your knowledge
This guy is so good, he can even turn off the SUN!
Great videos though.
James Kinyanjui Haha, thanks man! Glad the video was helpful!
@@chrisfix sir, my car i20 has 2 separate coil packs controlled by 2 wires connector which controls 2 high output terminals. However, one high terminal pin 4 of first coil gives less spark than pin 1 on the same coil pack. Why such less spark being provided by the same primary coil??
VERY GOOD INFO. THANK YOU!!!
Hey, great video Chris, and good background info - I always like it when people explain the 'why' and not just the 'how'. Thanks
James Booker No problem James! I am glad the video was helpful! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Chris this is Steve from Annapolis you're outstanding I wish I was as smart as you and I was younger keep up the good work thank you for the videos it really helps me out I got to swallow my pride even though I think I know a lot mechanically
Thanks a lot!
Hey Chris,
Let me tell you a story lol
My engine purs. Happy little 1.6 petrol. Got my timing belt changed and it suddenly idles like a bag of crap. There's a tick coming from the carb. The engine makes light pops, sometimes the whole car shakes. The rpm bounces around 800-900 on this ~1 second rhythm. During this time, I noticed when I change gear the rpm lingers a second before it drops. I took one lead out at a time to see if the idle changed at all, no such luck.
Rest of the rpm range is pretty smooth, car feels roughly as powerful as it was.
So I drive it for a few days when it starts idling at 2,000 rpm. The exhaust gases are way hot, temp is above normal. Possible hint of petrol on the exhaust too, hard to tell.
Sometimes, I can use the clutch, slow it down and it stays down, sometimes only letting it go cold stops it.
Now, I'm of the impression this guy screwed up the timing belt. He tells me it's the leads and the injectors.
Any thoughts?
Excellent and glad you showed that a multimeter has more purpose then just showing battery voltage lol. My friends been bugging me to buy one or use my “ohm” meter. I let him wait a bit since he’s a pain in my butt and went over and said I’ll bring it. I got there there and said “hey can u grab your multimeter just wanna make sure they read the same voltage on battery” Then I switched to ohm “20,000” and tested his allis chalmers tractor wires and various other electronic components. “I heard him say” “you a** hole”. Lol. I just smiled and told him to use the inter web lol
Great vid. Like from me. Lifetime ASE certified mechanic
Hi, Chris. Thanks for this video. Today I could able to detect spark plug wire defect with the help of your video.
Awesome! Glad the video was helpful
@@chrisfix sir, my car i20 has 2 separate coil packs controlled by 2 wires connector which controls 2 high output terminals. However, one high terminal pin 4 of first coil gives less spark than pin 1 on the same coil pack. Why such less spark being provided by the same primary coil??
Hey Chris, thanks for another great video. I have a 1980 camaro with a 383 stroker that I built. I keep burning plug wires which results in a cracked insulation on them. Headers get real hot and just happens over time. Even with Kevlar boots they still do this. Eventually tried header wrap combined with the hoot and haven't burned one since
guess it's time to order 16 of them for my old s class. thanks Chris!
Great video. Another subscriber here now! I never thought of the mist test. I had an intermittent miss that wouldn't throw a code since it wasn't exceeding the threshold for the number of misses the ECU needs to rigger that code. I changed the rear coil pack due to the connector on the coil being loose but still functional. The miss went away. The coil was working fine but I did reroute/move ALL of the wires to do this. I bet I have a insulation breakdown somewhere and I've already bought new Motorcraft wires and plugs anyway so I figure 21 years (98' ranger) and 243K miles on the original wires isn't bad. OEM stuff really lasts! I have no idea how long the plugs have been in so they need to go anyway. Bet it runs like a new engine! Thanks for your time making these vids. They are helpful for the DIY'er.
Thanks a bunch. Super video. My boat engine (2 cycle) has old plug wires that have "tarnish" on the terminals. I have replaced two of them. It seemed to help my engine run a bit smoother but there is an occasional miss or rough idling. I believe I'll replace the other four wires as well.
Chris! you just saved my 97 Corolla from the Junkyard. Thank you so much!
I like how your older videos sounded like you just woke up and started recording, and your newer videos sound like you just discovered coffee getting all fired up to do car repair videos.
Lol I never thought of it that way
Hi Chris,
I have a bit of a bother I hope you can help with.
Car is a 2003 Chevy Tracker. I bought her used, my first car. Started and ran great, no problems. Only issues were it needed some minor suspension work, and the gas tank leaked if you filled it over half. The previous owner's solution was to simply never fill it over half. I wanted to do better by the car than that, so I ordered a brand new gas tank, along with the suspension parts and took it to my mechanic (family has used him for ~20 years). I figured, given the previous owner's lack of maintenance, I'd have all new iridium plugs put in (the manual calls for either iridium or nickel). After the work was done, she was rough starting, and constantly stalls if you don't manually keep the RPMs at or above 2000. We tried replacing the catalytic converter & O2 sensors, no joy. New PCV valve, no change. IAC is clear. I installed a brand new air filter 300 miles prior to bringing it in for the tank and plug change. Mechanic insists the plugs are gapped properly (they were pre-gapped at the factory and he says they checked out fine). They're in a coil pack, and the wires weren't touched, only a plug change, so the firing order as I understand it could not have been fouled. Computer is throwing codes for barometric pressure sensor, knock sensor, and mass air flow sensor. Replacing all of them would cost over $300, with no guarantee that the sensors all suddenly failed at once. I realize it's really hard without physically examining the car, but do you have any ideas? Could the plugs have somehow mysteriously gone bad? I'm starting my own (non-automotive) hardware installation business, and need to be able to drive to my customers. At this point, I've $2,500 in the car, which ran great when I brought it in, and now is essentially a lawn ornament that can sometimes unreliably drive somewhere (roughly, loudly, and with a horrible smell). Thanks,
Alex in MT
I changed my coil and spark plgus but car didn't work properly. So i tested the wires like u did with multimeter and one of the wire were broken. Thank you for the video, helped me a lot.
Never heard of the water mist trick before. That is a new one I can add to the bag of tricks. Thanks.
***** Awesome! Glad the video was helpful and taught you something new!
Like I said before, you the greatest mr. Fix
Thanks!
outstanding! very useful. Im going to now try the NIGHT SPRAY technique. Ive been chasing down misfire issues..... and Ive elimated just about *everything* save for the wires.
I have seen many videos on this subject and I can easily say this is the most informative, hands down. Great job! You’ve got another sub.
This guy is great. Like everyone need to be like him. Step by step. Most just make a video and send it out lol idk if they every review their stuff. Or rehearse it nothing wrong with that.
Thnx chris i had noise on my radio , finally solve it 😍
sparking under water mist was a cool new tip to me thanks Chris
a tried and true method ive used for decades if you have a miss is if you are afraid of getting zapped put on a leather glove and pull off each wire from the distributor to see if there is a bad wire/plug. if you pull it off if its bad it will not make a change and a consistent miss on a cylinder. now swap over a wire and see if it comes to life. if it does not- change the one plug. if it comes to life replace the plug or all of them.
checking ohms on wires does not mean much since the resistance varies greatly even on different brands. unless you spot a wire that is WAY different than the others. many types of wires have very high resistance so the voltage has to build up to give a hotter spark--same as resistance spark plugs.
if you have truly wild random misses also take off cap and check for moisture or conductive dust. but wires is always a top suspicion and they can and will be bad out of the box--ive had it happen and got my money back and put on odd brand and problem was gone. In the southwest the dust has iron and other stuff in it and is VERY conductive.
if you find bad wire or plug should you replace them all? NO--not unless you are rich and you know they are old or if they LOOK old. remember the other plugs and wires are CONFIRMED good. that being said if they look old and car has issues by all means replace all plugs and wires as a start such as after buying used car.
if you pull off wire from distibutor and spark is long as you increase the distance? and the cylinder comes to life? plug and wire are both suspicious but will be one or both. that is because the very high voltage is now firing the cylinder.
Thanks for sharing!
Yes I finally found my dream channel
I should try this with my outboard motor. One of my small outboard can't get over 3000rpm or high speed. In visual the cable somewhere crack and looking bad. I should perform the multimeter test for it
Thanks for your great tips! Really clear to show how to do for me as i am new for engines.
+Jerry Chan Awesome! I hope that it is an easy fix! Good luck!
I love this video, the way you explained things to details. My problem is I just bought spark plugs and wires not too long ago and two of them will not connect at all on my tester and read anything, so I'm going to try that SPARK in the DARK method. 😂
Amazingly useful and on-point.
Thanks! Glad the video is useful! I try to make all my how to videos concise, educational, and watchable so that anyone can fix their car!!!
Someone told me to check my spark plugs and I didn't know how. Lol. But thank you. You got a sub from me.
This was freaking awesomeI Great video!! I really got a kick out of your Water Miss Test.and your Multi meter part really help me understand the Mult imeter. I was lost in school about the different functions. And we all know how important Electronics and testing them on vehicles are now a days. I'm gonna go check if you have a video on how to use it fully. Thank you again for these uploads!!
chrisrefaei Great and no problem bud! I am glad the video was helpful! I do not have a multimeter video yet, but it is in the works!
This was great. From simple no tools to more tools. Thank you.
Thank you for this
Chris knows his shit. I’ve learned a lot of little things from him.
Really good presentation Chris .Informative , and it moved along smoothly .
+Richard Butler Thanks!
Thanks your videos really help. And becoming a mechanic after wacthing each video
I had 1 bad plug wire and experienced CYL 2 MISFIRE, TRANSMISSION SLIPPING, OVERHEATING ENGINE. Radiator guy wanted to replace the radiator. Transmission guy wanted to fix the transmission. After checking the plugs, coil packs and wires, I replaced the wires for $29.00 from Amazon. No more problems.
u are doing great job,u have helped a lot of people around the world.U are amazing
Thank you! I am glad the videos are helpful!
2014 videos, lot less energetic than now
That was my first thought looking at the first seconds of this video!
@@joffreydepoplimont9523 me too
Maybe he hopped on TRT :D jkjk
Thank you buddy that was a good video I never thought about the misfire test at night we could see the spark that’s a genius
I'm glad the video was helpful!
Thanks Chris, as always a very useful video. Please keep making them as it makes doing a job much easier 👍
Thanks never knew they had that much damn resistance@
Water test is good, I always know I need an tune up when I stutter when cold at the 1st stop on a wet morning.
One thing to note, I have a new Fluke 323 tester and bought a new set of spark plug wires after my meter was showing an open line on the coil to distributor wire. I checked the new wire and got the same open line reading. I went to the specs on my meter to find out it only reads to 4000 ohms so it is completely useless for checking spark plug wires. The cheap multi-meter I had before that broke had a much higher resistance reading capability before it broke of course. I thought I was doing good by going with a quality brand tool, I just can't win.
That is crazy. Fluke is supposed to be an awesome multimeter brand.
Huge help with my 1997 Mercedes Benz. Was misfiring, traced it back to the spark plug wires! This video taught me a lot! Thank you!
As always, a good visual tutorial from Chris. Thanks.
My mechanic by mistake clamped one of the spark plug wires and it dented a bit, after he was working on the car and i tested it, i noticed that the car works iradically when I tried to press the gas pedal, and my fuel economy decreased. Could it be that that small dent in the wire damaged it inside, and yea the wires were brand new before i gave the car to the mechanic. Thank u in advance, and your videos are so helpful!!!😊
Thank u very much i did the water test and i saw where it was the short, i have to get new wires.
Glad I could help!
Video gold
I bet my s10 miss is because of damn spark wires
Whole s10 community has this problem about missing/stalling after short amount of time stopped
Will post again if it fixes
Thanks dude. On my way outside to check mine.
Hello Chris. Thanks for the videos man, you always make them full of helpful info and simple explained. I have erratic idle and that's "killing" me. It's interesting you pointing out about the high pitch radio noise. Its like 1 year that I hear that noise from time to time and I have thought it might come from some air conditioning tubes or valves. Sometimes I hear the noise even if my sound system is off. Does this noise definitely indicate that the coil wires are to be replaced?
all your vids are fantastico man!!! keep it up yo
Thanks a lot man! Will do!
cool Cool Chris thanks, I will check in the night and then use the multimeter, you are the man
successm941 Great! Let me know what you find!
Thank you ❤
Thanks!
Thank you for the explanation Chris!
Great video, straight to the point. Easy to understand. Thanks.
Great video. Easy to understand. Hopefully this helps me figure out my misfire in Cylinder 8 code.
chris u are a
excelent teacher
Zia Din Thank you! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Great job! Thorough, and totally on point!
Chris Lesmerises Thanks Chris! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
ChrisFix Subbed!
thanks very much for the very helpful tip on my engine misfiring problem.
Emmanuel Santiago You are welcome! Glad it was helpful!
I love the video, but, u checked ohm’s on the cables and one was good and the other was within specs but u didn’t say ‘what’ the specs are that I should be looking for? What # is good and what’s bad? Also, in the water spray test, you showed the sparking but u never went back and identified what was causing it? Prolly a plug wire but u never went back during the day to the exact spot u saw sparking at night and said this is where I saw the sparking, this area, and here’s what was causing it?? I’m not trying to beat ya up, just my opinion that’s it, for what it’s worth. Thank you for ur help!!
Depends on your owners manual
I hope you still read comments on old videos, but I haven't tried the mist test yet as I don't have the spray. I will try to go and get one but if you could help me now that would be nice, as the mechanic has said nothing is wrong (not tune up?).
Basically I drive a manual transmission car that I got second hand. After a month or so from the beginning of this year, it started having problems where it would stall randomly even though either I was driving or had the clutch pressed in fully. Although this problem was small, it has since gotten worse (i.e. stalled 5 times within 5 mins in a carpark, and shook violently whilst in third gear). My mechanic didn't bother to find out what it is, but when he drove it he said it was fine. However, it is an on and off thing, where it just randomly starts acting up then its fine after a while. I've tried turning AC off (makes it better) and let it warm up for 10 mins or so but it still happens.
It would be greatly appreciated if you could help as nothing I've found on the internet has helped so far. Thank you!
Smashing tutorial chris :-))
Those wires looked 4000 years old lol, i would imagine the carbon string through the center would be very well past its sell by date :-)
Also some spark plugs have a 5k resistor inside, and for older screw on caps they often have a 5k inside, but im now stating the bloody obvious lol.
The meter you used can be got off ebay very cheaply with the Dt830 or M830 model numbers, yellow and black is typical.
Thanks! The wires were 14 years old and have 110k miles on them. I didnt think about mentioning the 5k resistor so thanks!
I love your energy man. And good knowledge.♥️♥️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very professional presentation
Thanks a lot!! it's very helpful!! Great videos Chris!! please do not stop!!
Thanks man! I wont stop! More videos to come!
This is a great video. Thanks i like how you show the detail in the multimeter. I just have one question you said the bad wire was the one that read 10 thousand ohms and the good wire was approx. 500-600 ohms. The higher in ohms like 800-900 is a bad wire and the less ohms is a good plug?? Mine were between 600-700 is thst good or bad???
An excellent clear to the point guide 👍
Moving the spark plug lead at around 4:40, and checking the resistance, is not really a good test. If your test leads loose contact to the metal for a just sec, you can get an infinite reading (the lonely 1 as fist digit).
For this test to work properly, you have to fix your test leads with clamps, and make absolutely sure that contact with the metal is not broken, when moving the lead around.
Otherwise, good solid advice.
Really appreciate your videos, Chris! Always very informative and very well done. I hope you're making some good income off of these, as it's well deserved.
I'm going to check my wires using your methods, but is there a general rule as far as mileage goes as to when you should replace them? Answers to that are all over the map online. I have a '97 Toyota 4Runner with the 3.4 liter that I just put head gaskets on and it seems to be running slightly sluggishly since the rebuild. Of course, I parked it and waited two years to repair it after one blew, so for all I know it runs no different than before! Gotten used to the new car maybe. I put fuel stabilizer in when I parked it and have now run several fresh tanks through it and replaced the fuel filter, as well, which seemed to help slightly. New plugs were installed right before the head gasket going. Thanks in advance!
Thanks Chris, always helpful
Thanks a lot!
Much appreciated. Thank you for your time and your video.
Very nice information share your of all of to words it's true information sir and keep it up thankyou so much sir and iam waiting for the new again next video and May God bless you and your s all friends and family members thanks sir
Great job Chris. Excellent video
The night test was cool
+ChrisFix good video, but I was wondering what is the spec range. You said the old wire was in spec even though it had about 1/3 less resistance.
Very smart...great teacher...Thanks
are car need's a spark plug check and we found this video thanks so much for doing this video i gave it a like YEAH!!!!! #bestvideoever
by the way thanks 15/july/2014 same day as the first comment thanks chrisfix
Great! Glad the video was helpful! Remember to give the video a "thumbs up" (it helps me out, thanks!).
Chris very good job ... 3 others I just seen did not do as good of a job explaining how this is done
ricecarkiller Thanks a lot man! I do my best to make my videos a one stop shop! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
Hey Chris do you always recommend changing the spark plug wires when you change the spark plugs?
Also the lower the omes of resistance the better they are?
Yes,..and see that's the key to this info,..the less the better,..that's why at first it didn't make sense until I read your comment !!!
@@4687878 I always thought the higher it is, the stronger the connection.
@@mayeri3083 Nope, the higher number in OHMS, means more resistance to current flow.
Thank you sir this video is weary helpful fore me...
Easy to diagnose the problem of missing and power loss of Care........ 🚗🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫🌫
Oh wow, your voice is totally not annoying. +1
+tirus891 Great lol
Really good info! Thanks so much. No wonder I subscribe months ago!
Excellent---I'll subscribe and see what you've done since them (4 years ago)
Great info Chris. Thanks for your wisdom
Need to check spark plug wires and did UA-cam search and your video was first result 😁. Thanks for the info, btw did not know that wires had that much resistance hehe but okay I never worked arraound cars hehe besides fuses check, car stereo connectors wiring (with Google help 😎) and such hehe.
classic chris fix. this video is great!
around 4:49, eh itll work itll just b a weak spark because of using a lot of its energy to jump the break in the conductor
Very good clear video, you know your stuff.
GasGiant62 Thanks a lot! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
Cool video, good info. I might try this one day for fun.
Thanks! Good luck! It is neat to try!