Very helpful, thank you! I am pulling my wheels off (2022 30RBT Classic) while in winter storage in backyard garage to mitigate tire flat spots. Was watching carefully as to where you placed your floor stands ….. under the frame in front and behind the dual wheels (not under the axles) 👍
Nice Video! Like previously mentioned, Manual adjustment of the adjuster with a brake adjusting tool, Also taking some Krylon Paint to the rusty torsion axle, and then making sure to re-torque after going down the road for a little ways is always a great idea.
Thanks for the video. It confirmed the job I just did on my Airstream using Lippert self-adjusting brakes which are identical to the Dexter brakes but a lot less expensive. Lippert uses 3M Scotchlok connectors for the wires which are easy to use and solid. Lippert also includes new locknuts which I believe etrailer charges extra for. Also you didn’t mention anything about burnishing your new brakes. Lippert recommends this so the brakes start grabbing right away rather than taking forever on the road.
Good job on the brake changes. About the only thing I'd do different is put some shrink wrap over the heat shrink butt connectors, just as a little extra protection. I had the magnet wires break in 3 out of 4 assemblies on my camper!!! But luckily Lippert sent me 4 brand new assemblies to swap out with! Thanks for sharing.
I recommend using non-insulated terminals with separate heat shrink for the wire connection. This approch never fails. Make certain that you crimp using the proper crimping tool!!!
I'm not very handy so your video is really helpful. I know that I can do that! By the way. D.J. has done wonders for me and my 1999 Safari. He's the greatest. I'm fortunate to live only about 75 miles from his shop.
Glad the video is helpful. To be honest, DJ gave me a few pointers before I replaced the brakes on our AS. He’s a great resource to the community. Happy camping and safe travels.
Great video! You didn’t mention the manual pre-adjustment. If the brakes start off too loose, the magnet can over rotate, damaging the wire or hanging up the brake mechanism. It could take dozens of actuations before the they finish self-adjusting, causing some amount of risk to your new brakes. You can manually adjust the star gear through the hole in the back of the drum until you can just feel/hear a little drag.
I planned on having DJ from Broken Rivet RV Service replace the brakes but he couldn’t get them in stock before we had to depart so it became a DIY. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
I’m not certain, but it looks like you put the jack stand under the axle? That seems reasonable, but I’ve wondered about this, given the dire warnings about using the jack points. How do we know any particular point is ok to bear that much weight? For example, the axles have the built-in alignment bent into them. Aside from that, assuming you didn’t need the hydraulic jack somewhere else, that you could use the jack stand as a safety and avoid the issue. I’d love to hear your thoughts. Separately, those channel locks are not going to make a good connection. Maybe I would consider butt connectors with low temperature solder that you join using a heat gun. Thanks for this video.
Very helpful, thank you! I am pulling my wheels off (2022 30RBT Classic) while in winter storage in backyard garage to mitigate tire flat spots. Was watching carefully as to where you placed your floor stands ….. under the frame in front and behind the dual wheels (not under the axles) 👍
Thanks for watching 👀
Nice Video! Like previously mentioned, Manual adjustment of the adjuster with a brake adjusting tool, Also taking some Krylon Paint to the rusty torsion axle, and then making sure to re-torque after going down the road for a little ways is always a great idea.
Thanks for watching and the advice/tips. Always trying to learn from others. Safe travels
Thanks for the video. It confirmed the job I just did on my Airstream using Lippert self-adjusting brakes which are identical to the Dexter brakes but a lot less expensive. Lippert uses 3M Scotchlok connectors for the wires which are easy to use and solid. Lippert also includes new locknuts which I believe etrailer charges extra for. Also you didn’t mention anything about burnishing your new brakes. Lippert recommends this so the brakes start grabbing right away rather than taking forever on the road.
Well done Rick! Way to go ahead and get it done! Yes, the numbers and letters get smaller every year. 😂 Michelle
Thanks…we’re looking forward to our upcoming trip to the Great Lakes. Safe travels
What size socket is needed for the castle nut? Thanks - v. good video!
I used a 1 7/16” socket. FYI - I list all the tools needed in the video description.
Good job on the brake changes. About the only thing I'd do different is put some shrink wrap over the heat shrink butt connectors, just as a little extra protection. I had the magnet wires break in 3 out of 4 assemblies on my camper!!! But luckily Lippert sent me 4 brand new assemblies to swap out with! Thanks for sharing.
I recommend using non-insulated terminals with separate heat shrink for the wire connection. This approch never fails. Make certain that you crimp using the proper crimping tool!!!
Thanks for the comments and the tips. Happy camping and safe travels
I'm not very handy so your video is really helpful. I know that I can do that! By the way. D.J. has done wonders for me and my 1999 Safari. He's the greatest. I'm fortunate to live only about 75 miles from his shop.
Glad the video is helpful. To be honest, DJ gave me a few pointers before I replaced the brakes on our AS. He’s a great resource to the community. Happy camping and safe travels.
Excellent video!
Thanks!!! 👍
Great video, thank you Colonel.
Great video! You didn’t mention the manual pre-adjustment. If the brakes start off too loose, the magnet can over rotate, damaging the wire or hanging up the brake mechanism. It could take dozens of actuations before the they finish self-adjusting, causing some amount of risk to your new brakes. You can manually adjust the star gear through the hole in the back of the drum until you can just feel/hear a little drag.
Thanks for the comment. Safe travels and happy camping.
Great job really enjoyed your videos 🇺🇸😎
Thanks. Glad to hear the video is helpful. Happy camping and safe travels.
Great video….lol, taking mine to have someone do.
I planned on having DJ from Broken Rivet RV Service replace the brakes but he couldn’t get them in stock before we had to depart so it became a DIY. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
Great video! Did you take my pics of the wheel that had problems? Safe travels.
Hi Mike…I do have a picture of the damaged brake assembly (if interested). I can email/text if you want. Take care and safe travels.
@@thewrightlifeemail or text would be fine. I’d like see what was loose or not connected ! Thanks!
What kind of mileage lifespan is typical for these brake shoes? Looks simple enough to take a peak since the bearing comes off with the drum.
I’m not sure the typical lifespan on the shoes. I just inspect them periodically and replace as needed. Thanks for the comment. Safe travels.
I’m not certain, but it looks like you put the jack stand under the axle? That seems reasonable, but I’ve wondered about this, given the dire warnings about using the jack points. How do we know any particular point is ok to bear that much weight? For example, the axles have the built-in alignment bent into them. Aside from that, assuming you didn’t need the hydraulic jack somewhere else, that you could use the jack stand as a safety and avoid the issue. I’d love to hear your thoughts. Separately, those channel locks are not going to make a good connection. Maybe I would consider butt connectors with low temperature solder that you join using a heat gun. Thanks for this video.
I don't think the jack stand was under the axle, it appeared correctly positioned under the frame.
Numbers are getting smaller and a gallon of water is getting heavier.
So so true…🤣