I have a unleavened bathroom floor that is sinking on the drain side. I am considering your solution to put a mortar bed only below the tub instead of liquid concrete the whole bathroom. My question is once a put a mortar bed, how do I address the gap between the tub and the rest of the bathroom flooring? Is the tile+ thinest or floating Floors going to compensate the GAP? Tnx
Thank you for the video effort, I know it's been a while since it came out but still it helps those of us who are impaired especially. Did I miss you explaining how you suspended the tub to mortar underneath it or did you just have a tight wedge situation holding it up and felt adventurous to get underneath it?
What was the difference in the tub height once mortar install was complete after dry fit. How much did the mortar raise the tub? BTW thanx for great explanation.
I’ve been doing bathtubs for years and to be honest with you you did a very nice job, but I feel your process is definitely tedious. I think there’s a lot more simpler ways to do it without overdoing it and over, analyzing, and no offense, but drop in the level of the acrylic tub was not cool.
Thanks for your input, no offense but it’s gonna last a lifetime and should be done right even if it takes some time. Also it is fiberglass! And yes, watch those tools while working!
At Christopher.... If you're going to critique his time and methods, then the least you can do is offer up your alternative method to demonstrate why yours is better. Until then, this is the gold standard as far as I'm concerned because I've been struggling with my tub install in the exact same tight space with zero room to operate and this vid has helped IMMENSELY!
…and honestly this is the only method I can think of for our renovation with finished walls around the tub and a wall to wall soaker. Honestly, it makes a lot of sense without a ton of manpower.
@@constructionhacks9293 Bonding introduces stress into the system. Any movement in the subfloor can transfer those stresses. Real issue in the flooring / tile industry that transfers into other areas of construction. Just something to consider. Not to mention removal in the future. Best to use a non modified thinset if you are using thinset .
@@scotttullis7084 I don’t think the bonding is an issue, what I don’t like about dry fitting (no bond) is if you step on the tub and push down the concrete during install it leaves a gap that will cause flexing and cracking over time.
@@omegaplumbing 1. Most come with installation guide. Your point? 2. My installation guide doesn't say to use a stringer. My tub looks identical to this tub. 3. True, as I can't access the tub through other rooms. But instead I'm still going to use a 2x4 and build a temporary shelf between studs to lay the board on as a support underneath and then still use 2 screws in the flange to keep it steady against the wall as it remains elevated while I do the work. 4. I thought that was what he did? 5. I thought that was what he did? If you mean applying mud on tub too, there's another discussion in here about that. I'm personally going to put felt between the mud and the tub because if there IS any flex, i don't want noise of mortar crumbs down the road. In addition, I don't know if mortar has any long-term adverse affects on fiberglass.
@@constructionhacks9293 a 2x4 on the wall. Since I saw this video I installed a tub, tricky to get level. Finally I got it after about ten tries dry fitting and removing.
The idea is to support the bottom of the tub. Tub floors generally do not sit Flush with the sides due to inconsistencies in people’s homes. The tub itself will then need support on the bottom so that it’s not moving when full with water and a person inside.
WTF are you shimming for when you are set in a bed of mortar, and did you put screws through the flange of the tub? WOW!!! Do you really know what you are talking about? I truly disagree when someone with minimal knowledge tries to give DIY's guidance on how to do something they truly know very little about. THIS HAPPENS QUITE OFTEN IN HOME DEPOT. OH, AND FYI: the pocket at the front of the tub is for a 2x4 not a huge pile of thick mortar. Usually I double up that 2x4. And YES, YOU DO WANT TO MIX YOUR MUD SLACK, NOT THICK LIKE YOU SAY. YOU WANT YOUR TUB TO SIT IN A BED OF LOOSELY MIXED MUD SO IT DOESNT SET UP ON YOU CREATING A COLD JOINT PRIOR TO FULLY CURING.
is a creaking tub floor one issue with the tub not being level? i have a tub installed at the moment, and the floor is creaking, the boards are up ready to tile, but i am concerned with the creaking noise as i step around on the tub floor, (americast tub) also, it was foamed to make a correction (the foam was entered from our garage to bottom of the tub - where the plumping / tub is).
Fantastic! Thanks for showing all the intricate details.
You’re the best! Thanks for your support!
I have a unleavened bathroom floor that is sinking on the drain side. I am considering your solution to put a mortar bed only below the tub instead of liquid concrete the whole bathroom. My question is once a put a mortar bed, how do I address the gap between the tub and the rest of the bathroom flooring? Is the tile+ thinest or floating Floors going to compensate the GAP? Tnx
You don’t put a 2x4 ledger board around the perimeter of the tub for my support?
@@julrob97 yes you can if that’s your style! Thanks for the query!
Thank you for the video effort, I know it's been a while since it came out but still it helps those of us who are impaired especially. Did I miss you explaining how you suspended the tub to mortar underneath it or did you just have a tight wedge situation holding it up and felt adventurous to get underneath it?
Great job James!!! You are amazing!!!
@@rickrichards1561 thanks for your support!
What was the difference in the tub height once mortar install was complete after dry fit. How much did the mortar raise the tub? BTW thanx for great explanation.
@@SteveRosato it sits pretty close to dry, it’s raised where the level needed to come up. Thanks for your support!
I’ve been doing bathtubs for years and to be honest with you you did a very nice job, but I feel your process is definitely tedious. I think there’s a lot more simpler ways to do it without overdoing it and over, analyzing, and no offense, but drop in the level of the acrylic tub was not cool.
Thanks for your input, no offense but it’s gonna last a lifetime and should be done right even if it takes some time. Also it is fiberglass! And yes, watch those tools while working!
At Christopher.... If you're going to critique his time and methods, then the least you can do is offer up your alternative method to demonstrate why yours is better. Until then, this is the gold standard as far as I'm concerned because I've been struggling with my tub install in the exact same tight space with zero room to operate and this vid has helped IMMENSELY!
…and honestly this is the only method I can think of for our renovation with finished walls around the tub and a wall to wall soaker. Honestly, it makes a lot of sense without a ton of manpower.
Now that's a good motar bed..! Thanks. I like adding some to the bottom of tub or shower base too.
Thanks for your support!
Is lowering the bathtub onto the drain good enough to connect the drainage?
They thread on once in place yes! Thanks for your support!
How did yall hook up the drain connections?
Great job, Nathan!
Thanks for your support! Nathan is the best!
You do not want it to bond, just have full support. Other than that nice informative job video.
Thanks for the comment! I don’t think it hurts to bond it!
@@constructionhacks9293 Bonding introduces stress into the system. Any movement in the subfloor can transfer those stresses. Real issue in the flooring / tile industry that transfers into other areas of construction. Just something to consider. Not to mention removal in the future. Best to use a non modified thinset if you are using thinset .
@@scotttullis7084 I don’t think the bonding is an issue, what I don’t like about dry fitting (no bond) is if you step on the tub and push down the concrete during install it leaves a gap that will cause flexing and cracking over time.
What is the black padding material that was used after installation to protect against scratches while drywall and other construction occurred?
Rubber shower lining from Lowe’s in the plumbing section, thanks for your support!
Good laminate underlayment!
Why would you drill screw holes before leveling the tub...?
Umm, because he suspended the tub? He didn’t drill into the studs by the looks of it.
Instead of mortar can i spray foam?
Foam deteriorates over time and will begin flexing the tub
How many gallons or motor did it take to do that job?
30
Maybe 15
@@constructionhacks9293thanks for giving the answer. Any chance you know how many pounds rather than gallons?
@@davidramey7186 probably sixty
@@constructionhacks9293 hey thanks so much for replying! I really appreciate that help!
Ok just watched more of this video this is not the way at all. 😂
Yes it is!
Instead of saying “no this isn’t the way” and not explaining. Why don’t you explain how you would do it.
@@Appa8 Amen!
@@omegaplumbing Ah gotcha. Thank you for the explanation.
@@omegaplumbing
1. Most come with installation guide. Your point?
2. My installation guide doesn't say to use a stringer. My tub looks identical to this tub.
3. True, as I can't access the tub through other rooms. But instead I'm still going to use a 2x4 and build a temporary shelf between studs to lay the board on as a support underneath and then still use 2 screws in the flange to keep it steady against the wall as it remains elevated while I do the work.
4. I thought that was what he did?
5. I thought that was what he did? If you mean applying mud on tub too, there's another discussion in here about that. I'm personally going to put felt between the mud and the tub because if there IS any flex, i don't want noise of mortar crumbs down the road. In addition, I don't know if mortar has any long-term adverse affects on fiberglass.
How to put in the mortar bed???
Two man lift down
@@constructionhacks9293 How does someone lift DOWN?
@@rotcod2886 same way, two guys, grab it on the corners and wiggle it down! Thanks for your support
Its not tile. The mortar is only for support. You dont backbutter a tub.
@@thomascooke6484 yes you do!!!
Is there a ledger board here?
Under the tub there is a piece of plywood. Is that what your asking?
@@constructionhacks9293 a 2x4 on the wall. Since I saw this video I installed a tub, tricky to get level. Finally I got it after about ten tries dry fitting and removing.
@@nmatthew7469 it is tricky, I take my time!
I just installed a tub in the corner with concrete on either two sides so this hack wouldnt have worked.
Why not?
New tub isn't so new when dropping stuff into it.
My brother lives for doing that kinda thing.
What???
Yes, the tub should’ve been protected til done
He’ll learn
why not level the floor instead before you install the tub?
Yea, like tubs ever come straight or square. I assume you never installed a tub before.
The idea is to support the bottom of the tub. Tub floors generally do not sit Flush with the sides due to inconsistencies in people’s homes. The tub itself will then need support on the bottom so that it’s not moving when full with water and a person inside.
I just removed a tub it was resting on the tub pipe water outlet when I cut the tub out it fell 1"1/2" to floor can't believe the work some people do.
Buttering the bottom of your tub. Now I’ve seen it all.
You should try it sometime!
WTF are you shimming for when you are set in a bed of mortar, and did you put screws through the flange of the tub? WOW!!! Do you really know what you are talking about? I truly disagree when someone with minimal knowledge tries to give DIY's guidance on how to do something they truly know very little about. THIS HAPPENS QUITE OFTEN IN HOME DEPOT. OH, AND FYI: the pocket at the front of the tub is for a 2x4 not a huge pile of thick mortar. Usually I double up that 2x4. And YES, YOU DO WANT TO MIX YOUR MUD SLACK, NOT THICK LIKE YOU SAY. YOU WANT YOUR TUB TO SIT IN A BED OF LOOSELY MIXED MUD SO IT DOESNT SET UP ON YOU CREATING A COLD JOINT PRIOR TO FULLY CURING.
To thin no support! It sounds like you’re set in your ways! You should try it my way sometime! It’s better!
is a creaking tub floor one issue with the tub not being level? i have a tub installed at the moment, and the floor is creaking, the boards are up ready to tile, but i am concerned with the creaking noise as i step around on the tub floor, (americast tub) also, it was foamed to make a correction (the foam was entered from our garage to bottom of the tub - where the plumping / tub is).
A lot of time do you hear cracking because it’s a cheap tub and it needs to have concrete underneath of it to keep it from flexing
Sometimes, if it’s upstairs on a subfloor, this won’t even completely solve the problem
It's a split level home, 1972, upstairs bathroom.
@@triciaf5348 I recommend a reinforced fiberglass bottom tub, a little more money but well worth it.
@constructionhacks9293 it's a little too late for that. My contractor lifted up the tub to put more foam under it. I'm hoping this does the trick.
wow what a hack job
We are seeing a bathtub in a bathroom so I’ll take that as a compliment!
Brad yelton!
Hey bro!
What is happening here??
Cool stuff!
Hacking away.....?!&^%
I actually flinched when he dropped the level in the tub.