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BMW Service - Airhead Exhaust Nut Removal
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2013
- Many BMW Airhead cylinder heads become damaged from previous neglect and/or attempts to remove the nuts after they have seized. If the nut doesn't spin freely after being broken free CUT THE NUT and discard it PLEASE!
atlhough I think this guy is very very informed, and def knows what he is talking about, I have to say that he has an aire of "I know everything and am the best" kind of attitude
Most excellent instruction.
Speaks of intelligent mechanic with long experience.
Clear, concise, and lacking the often seen ego displays.
Currently restoring a 1971 R75/5 with 4800 miles on the clock but not ridden and left outside since 1974. Chris's videos keep me sane stripping and putting my machine back together, alongside my 1980 Moto Guzzi CX100 and Mk3 1968 Ducati 250 single. I work on one each day, when I can, and the best fun is working on the BM with the videos in the background. Cheers buddy from the cold and wet UK.
Well, thanks, Triumph and me!
Thanks Chris for your reply,
Well done removing the airhead exhaust nuts. Had the same problem in the past.
When I refit replacement nuts, I always use grinding coarse paste and oil to seat
the thread and make sure it doesn't bind and screws fully on the port. I was told
years ago to lube the threads with Graphite dry powder. They have always unscrewed
okay after for me.
"hold on to the fucking hammer" -best part
Chris Harris, I think your video's are Life Savers. Take an excellent mechanic who knows his Shit and Video the man working and showing the RIGHT way to do the jobs at hand. People need this. Thank You Very Much!!!
Thanks buddy!! I know absolutely nothing about BMW airheads except what I've learned from you. I used your method but was at a point where it was barely moving till I used the dreaded wd-40. That combined with heat and tapping it got it off very cleanly. Thanks
Oh dear, you knackered those poor threads with all that hammering back and forward. Try a couple of knocks, if they don't budge, just cut them right away.
You are very much welcome. I'm glad you're finding them educational.
excellent video, without your video I would have stripped the thread on the head(s) and or taken the bike to a shop.
when I cut the nut I made sure not to cut through the nut into the thread underneath. remember to hammer with caution as this can also damage the thread.
excellent video, good stuff.
£9 new from Motobins. Didn't even try to fight it, just cut it. Plenty of copperslip on the new one though. Thanks for the video Chris, excellent as always
No, this is a common issue with neglected Airheads. Had it been a lean/over-heating issue it would have holed the piston or burnt a valve. Thank you for your question, Chris
The exact same thing happened to me today. Right side came off sorta easy, left side I could manage 1/8 turn after heat treatment. I cut it off,threads were good. It was the silver shit. I bought this leaking '91 RT last year from a guy in Florida who works on Beemers, and then I rode it home to the North West. Now I need to change all the rubber seals. Thanks for the video, saved me again.
I drilled a 3mm hole at the top of each nut and filled with penetrating oil. Worked for me as they had not been on for years. Best advice, if they don’t move immediately cut them off. You will cause all sorts of damage to the head hammering at it. When you see how the cylinder head is attached to the block you will understand.
As always great stuff Chris. You must be a mind reader as the spanner was just ordered this morning in advance of the pushrod tube seals being done. As for the freezer spray. Have a look at these big tins of air duster you get at computer shops. Turn them upside down when you spray and the liquid that comes out is just like the freezer spray.
You speak the truth follow Chris. I had that problem back in the '70s on my 90S. These days I fix them by complete replacement.,see my videos on doing a REALLY crapped out one!
I know this is an old video... I bought my R100rs new in July 1977 and still have it. When I went to remove the exhaust nuts they were virtually impossible to unscrew. I finally got them off with a lot of sweat and cussing without destroying anything and found what looked like silver anti-seize from the factory.
I'm glad that you cylinder heads were not damaged.
I think I'd still like to try some release oil or penetrant. Just to say I covered all the bases...
Great video, just about to attempt this today and you might have just saved my head!
Thanks. I’ve learned a lot watching your videos.
Thank you for the video. Great education, would sound a lot better without the bleep bleeps! Thanks
Same to you Merry Christmas to you and your family
Use Leather Gloves. Use hearing Protection. Use Eye Protection.
New threads $125-150 per head. Cut off the nuts & headers will have to be replaced as well unless there is no crossover pipe.
good vid. my exhaust nuts were u bugger to remove, ended up cutting them off too. Luckily there was no thread damage at all. Signs show that my bike is an ex-uk police bike so was atleast maintained for most of its life. There were signs of copper grease yet over 12 years of being dormant even this didn't help.
Can I use my pipe wrench? Don't have that tool!
Who does the head repair?
quick question as I have just ordered some new exhaust gasket rings--which one (smaller or larger split ring) goes on the head side ?--thanks
You are welcome! Good luck, Chris
Side-side play is not normal. Be sure that the pivot pins threads are clean. Sometimes I find evidence of a previous tech's inexperience when the pins have thread-locker and the nut is then stuck to the threads of the pin preventing the pin from bottoming and being torqued properly. You must remove ALL thread-locker. Place the pins in the oven on a baking pan at 250 F for 1/2 hour to liquefy the thread-locker. Then cool and the nut should spin freely. Torque the pin to 10 nm-the nut to 105 nm.
OK stop, put the hammer and wrench down. First heat the nut well, then try loosening. As for penetrating oil, WD40 does work so long as you apply it while loosening. If it even begins to feel like the threads are galling, STOP! Cut the exhaust nut, usually a single cut through it and using a chisel to spread the nut is all it takes just as he showed. Nut is relatively cheap compared to sending the head out to have the head repaired. I worked on a ton of these bikes living in a city on the ocean so have seen my share of corrosion. The copper antisieze is the best stuff, but any is better than none. Take your time and don't cause more problems trying to fix your bike.
you think there was to much heat on that exhaust manifold that? maybe it was running lean to hot and melt the treads?
what if you just put a revised head instead? or is it also just as expensive?
Where do I get this wrench?
So in this case what would you do to ensure the buggered-up area at the back of the threads didn't screw with the threads on the new nut? Would you file/grind that area down on the cylinder head, leaving the good threads alone?
Yes, a common issue... input shaft bearing.
Would it be cheaper to just replace the head? Also, can copper anti-seize be used on steel studs?
not cheaper to replace the head. machining new threads is a 100-150 dollar job max.
same problem, maybe wors on a R80GS. On motorworks.co.uk I found this solution: a modification kit consisting in a clamp. After that, no more threads problems anymore. I still have to mount it though.
Thanks that was great advice
I ship all transmissions (except the Getrag 6 speed) to Bruno Sax for machining and rebuilding but I'll offer my meager knowledge of the Airhead transmission. These gear boxes are basic trash (Bruno's words) and need a lot of work. Bruno is very frugal and states that Airhead transmissions should have fluid changes every 6,000 miles. There is a lot of improvements to be made inside these gear boxes. Search for Bruno's Machine & Repair for details.
Wow not so unlike BSA after all never hit my BSA jug that hard but good to know my r100rt is safe from the mallet for now. Thanks learning fast, if you can get away from fumes heating the collar then spraying and soaking area with penetrating oil can help especially if you have it rotating. Serious galling on the alloy steel disimilar metal reaction.
How easy/hard is it to slip on a new nut? Doesn't the exhaust pipe have a bell end?
No. The exhaust header slips into the opening in the head, it's not flared.
Chris,
I'm dealing with a similar situation on my 1982 R100RS, right side finned nut is really tight and can't be removed unless it is either heated up or cut...how do you put on the new nut?
do they have an opening allowing you for it to go over the pipe itself and then tightened with a bolt?
would have loved to see the mounting of the new nut on that head..
In the absence of a reply from Chris, the new finned nut slips over the end of the pipe followed by two bevelled rings, one of which is split. When the nut is tightened, the split ring tightens against the bevel of the solid ring and seals the pipe. You can just see the rings in the video.
Good on ya
Horror !!! What a bad design ........ What a crazy madnesss . Who was the crazy was designed that .??
use a can of "dust off" - inverted - same as freeze spray but only $4
Hard to find in the US as well!
All I wanna do is change my fucking oil filter and I have to go through this crap?
That camera really likes to rave!
Yes, or have the heads threads repaired. Thanks, Chris
Such a tutorial!! My R100/7 every time I leave the handlebars leads to Poland? Is that right? 😂😂
Better than steering itself to New York, right?!
That would work too. Thanks.
really helpful thanks!
You are most welcome.
USE Copper slip..... or buy a HONDA !!! lol
Good video..REAL WORLD..Chris
Tough aluminum!
Oh, so true! But then again, Honda is not much more than the Japanese BMW! Buy a Kawi and ride, ride, ride :)
There is now a simpler solution. Order a special exhaust nut replacement in germany (Sternmutterersatz) , this nut does not need any threads, looks about the same as the original and works fine. Google "BMW Sternmutterersatz" and you will find it. Costs about € 150 for two.
Thanks Luc.
USE COPPER NEVER SEIZE.
What's with the fucking hammer?
I was obvious the alloy had picked up and you kept hammering it back and forth.
"Don't fuck with it" then you whack it around.
How about cutting the nut before brutalizing the thread?
That loaded back thread was your doing.
That was my first thought . If you have no prior experience of a particular bike , then it would be logical to assume the worst and cut the nuts off . Maybe the threads on the cylinder head side would be fused anyhow , but at least you wouldn't be kicking yourself for your impatience and wishful thinking
I'm sure she is! :)
Spray the threads with PROLONG Spray Lube Prolong Engine Treatment is formulated with the company’s exclusive AFMT™ ( Anti-Friction Metal Treatment™) technology which chemically bonds to metal surfaces in the engine (or anything you spray it on), creating a protective layer that prevents metal-on-metal grinding - the cause of unwanted friction and increased heat.- prolong.com/
I picked up an completely rusted and ceased Industrial Zig zag Singer sewing machine and doused it with PROLONG. A few days later everything loosened up - I was amazed. Mario Andretti uses it in his race cars.