How to Replace the Timing Belt and Water pump Subaru 2.5L Part 2: Replacement
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2019
- In part 2 of a two part series the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, 3 iders and the water pump and thermostat are replaced on a 2012 Subaru Legacy with a 2.5L engine. This procedure may be similar for other Subaru models with this engine made between 2006 and 2014 such as Impreza, Forester, Outback and Baja.
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Thanks for the video. I've never seen such poor design, but if I attempt it myself, this will really help to fix a cluster F of a car.
You're welcome. I do disagree, though, with your brutal takedown of the Boxer engine or Subaru in general.
I was doing some research on Subaru's and I came across this video - excellent. I changed my mind about buying a Subaru after the "thermostat in the water pump housing".
I was doing this procedure for 2 reasons.
1. It was due.
2. The crankshaft front main seal was leaking oil down onto the exhaust manifold. IF YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT TIMING SPROCKET DONT BREAK OFF ONE OF THE TIMING TEETH. I was being very careful. This appears to be made from magnesium and is VERY brittle. Now I have to order one from Subaru. No other parts store carries a Subaru crankshaft timing sprocket.
Best of luck.
Really enjoyed watching the two videos on this. You do a very good job, with the camera and the videos weren't too long! That torque wrench reminds me of, how outdated my 30 year old Snap On is, these days! And you did all that without the use of a fancy Milwaukee 18V Brushless, Fuel less gun...lol. Well done!!
A master mechanic couldn't have done it better!
Y'all really did a great job on these two videos! Kudos for all the hard work! God bless!
Thanks for posting , Gr8 presentation , well explained , totally confident in having a go at this now.
Well made video enjoyed watching, about to (hopefully) pick up a 2005 Impreza. Only one critique if I may, might help out someone doing this themselves. You guys pulled out the tensioner pin BEFORE checking that all the timing marks were aligned. Would highly recommend checking the marks before pulling the pin. Thanks for posting!
U guys rock that's up and coming on my 2.5
Excellent job and very very helpful and step by step how to video
I gotta give a huge thank you for this video. This is the only video on UA-cam that I found that actually shows the entire process, start to finish.
Other videos I found did mention a process of slowly decompressing and the re-compressing the tensioner pulley using a c clamp to bleed any bubbles that might've entered the fluid in shipping, so I did do that in conjunction with the steps lined out in your video. I also purchased an Aisin brand kit, based on advice from other videos on the subject, as Aisin sources the same manufacturer as the OE parts, other than their own brand water pump, which has good reputation for not failing early.
The only issue I ran into was my harmonic balancer absolutely refused to come off. I wasn't sure if it was okay to use penetrating fluid in this area, but some quick research suggested it was okay. Some time with a propane torch, pb blaster, and a pair of vice grips carefully locked onto the top of the harmonic balancer to gain some leverage eventually got it free. Getting it back on also wasn't as easy as it could've been. I found out that the edge of the metal around the notch of mine was burred into the notch. I just scraped the notch outwardly with a screwdriver so the burring wasn't in the way, and then it went on.
Once the timing belt had begun to be routed on, the remaining idlers were truly a struggle to get the bolt correctly lined up, but they weren't impossible, just took time, patience, and a decent amount of strength to fight against the belt.
If I do this job again, I will try to remove the thermostat housing from the water pump before removing the pump from the car, those torqued bolts were hard to remove from the loose pump.
Again, huge thanks to you for this video. I've never done timing before at all and I was able to do mine successfully with this video as a guide.
Thank You for posting. You did a good job.
Thank you for posting this wonderful walk through. I'll be using this in conjunction with MrSubaru1387's video to perform the job on my 2010 Legacy
You're welcome and good luck with your job.
just bought one of these at 87k miles, thanks bro
Hows it holding up?
Cool video I just had to do one today , that belt is TIGHT!!
while I'm terrified to replace the timing belt and everything on my 2011 outback with 175k miles (pretty sure this was never changed BTW), I'm definitely feeling more confident with such a good guide
I've been there. Get good parts, take your time, and be safe. Also, this is among the easiest of all timing belts to replace.
Excellent videos, great camera work and vocal descriptions, one of the best ive seen.
I'm going to give this a try now once I get that pulley tool since I also have a small oil leak behind the covers.
Would love to see you do a power steering pump video too.
ua-cam.com/video/VJdr3icNEw0/v-deo.html
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Awesome video!
Great job. All these other kids talk about everything else on their videos besides the job. This is a great vid alot of idiots can learn from you.
THANKS FOR SHARING KNOWLEDGE MUCH APPRECIATE
Thank you for this video
Great video thanks!
Thanks for your help
Great vid yeah I have to work on my timing belt this weekend it snapped off and it looks like one of the pulleys broke off
Excellent video, A+, this will help me when I have to do my timing belt on my 2011 Subaru Impreza
I'm in the middle of the job and I'm still confused is it the arrow or the small timing mark on the crank?
What size it the bolt you broke loose on the crank shaft pulley?
Does anyone have a link to the crank tool???
Are the cams for the SOHC engines not under spring tension like the DOHC motors are at TDC? It looked like everything stayed in place when you took tension off the belt, so I would assume it's not.
Subaru's a little different but I would imagine there is still spring tension there. Maybe we just got lucky!
@@TheOriginalMechanic I haven't checked the service manual yet to see if locking the cam gears is part of the procedure for the SOHC as well. This at least shows me what I'm up against. Thanks!
I don't have that specific tool you use for the crank pulley bolt removal. is there any alternative tool to use?
You can probably rent one at autozone or oreilys
How do I add 60 degree to the 34.7? Where does one get that digital torque wrench
If you have a 6 point socket: tighten to the torque spec, draw a line at a point on the "star" of the six point and carry it over to the pulley. Draw another line on the point counterclockwise to the first. Tighten until the second line you drew matches the one you drew on the pulley. 360 degrees divided by 6 equal angles gets you 60 degrees. you can use a 12 point socket as well, just skip one of the points.
I am about to remove the old timing belt but the alignment marks are off by about 2 inches. I turned the crank over 4 full revolutions while checking the timing marks on each cam on each rotation. Always off by about 2 inches. Do I remove the belt then just turn 1 cam back 2 inches to match? It ran fine before all this. I'm doing the timing belt because it is way overdue and I'm about to go on a road trip. Any ideas?
Logically, your idea must be correct. One of the cams must have been installed off its mark when the timing was either replaced, or installed at the factory.
@@DieuEtMonDroit230
The marks I originally referenced were painted on with nail polish and both were off by over an inch. I later found the machined in grooves and the rest was fine. I already put 2k on it since then.
@@mindthependulum6245 I just came back to delete my comment, because I believe it to be more a more complicated situation if the marks in the metal don't line up. I'll leave my comment since you already replied. Happy new year.
Y’all need an air ratchet!! Great video though…👌
Please help (I’m new to this). I got the new timing belt on, completed the clockwise rotations, and had everything properly aligned. After trying what you did at 8:56, the crank bolt did not come out. Instead, I jumped timing and now the crank is a few teeth back. I tried holding both cams to move the crank back into proper position, but had no luck and now I’m worried that I bent the valves because there was a lot of resistance and I even managed to start unscrewing the driver side camshaft pulley a few times. I don’t have much experience with this stuff and am extremely concerned. Please let me know, thanks
Firstly, I'm sure you didn't bend the valves. You should take a few steps back and redo the belt install. Get the cams and crank back in alignment and install the belt again. I'm surprised that the crank bolt got that tight merely rotating the engine twice to check timing. Just go back and try it again and I'm sure you'll be fine.
@@TheOriginalMechanic ok thank you very much. I really appreciate it. Didn’t see your response until now and it all makes sense now. I made a dumb mistake. Before watching your video, I assumed the marks on the timing belt were supposed to line up after two clockwise revolutions. When they didn’t line up, I figured that a revolution meant having the center mark on the belt align to the crank pulley again (if that makes sense). So I ended up rotating the crank way more than 2 clockwise revolutions. Do you think it’s safe for me to start the engine after realigning everything in order to get the crank pulley bolt off with a breaker bar again? Or should I go about it in a different way?
Interesting, I just asked a general question about this step as well. I am not sure why the special tool isn't used at this step.
Do you know how close the 3.0 engine is to vs the 2.5...thanx in Advance..👍🤞
I have no idea. Perhaps another viewer does though.
Why does your left. (Driver side) cam look off by a tooth?
You have great videos. Just discovered your channel. Question: I have a 2013 Outback, I think it is a timing chain and does not need replacement. Can you please confirm?
Timing chains can still break and need replacing at regular maintence intervals. The specifics of when and how can be found by Googling your model. I've got a 2001 Outback, but it's a belt like this one.
@@rachelfinder Thank you appreciate the quick response.
@@williamhaas8980 you're welcome! I thought the same thing about timing chains when I first heard about them. I was surprised to find out they still can break.
Can you change the water pump without changing and dismantling the timing belt cover?
No, the pump is run by the timing belt.
What if the drivers side moves off it's mark?
What if my cams are misadjusted, what should I do? The lines do not line up with the engine
You will have to carefully turn them by hand until they do line up.
@@TheOriginalMechanic my passenger cam is loose, is that normal?
@@ButteredPeanuts As you turn it clockwise by hand there will be areas of higher resistance as the springs compress and then lower as they release. Both cams should feel the same though.
@@TheOriginalMechanic my passenger cam moves back to the right and left about 3 inches? Could it be a problem, or bent valves?
@@ButteredPeanuts If the car was running before you started this job it likely doesn't have a major engine problem. I don't have an answer for that movement on your cam.
Could you please provide the link for the parts needed?
My friend bought the parts from a Subaru dealership.
Strange. . .there was no yelling🤨
What none of these guys tell you or show you is the hard parts. The parts where they get stuck on something or something won't come undone or go back on right. They make these videos look so smooth. But believe me, it's not. Getting a timing belt back on and all the pulleys, is not always easy at all.
I had no gory details to show because there weren't any on this job. I'm not afraid to show frustrating details when I have them, but I can't make them up when they don't exist. Thank you Subaru engineers!
How long did it take you to just do the water pump
about 20-30 minutes
So of the parts
Which model and year is this? I don't have those two drive belt idler pulleys on my 2009 Impreza.
2012 Legacy
@@TheOriginalMechanic didn't they switch over to chain driven 2.5L engines after 2011?
@@jugdhiss IDK
@@jugdhiss my 2012 forester 2.5L X has a belt.. not a chain.. otherwise known as a serpentine belt.
@@jugdhiss once you see the treads of the belt start to wear off (after 100k miles or so) you need to replace it.
I am a DIY guy, but not a mechanic. So maybe I am missing a couple things that were supposed to be obvious (I watched both videos many times):
1) At about 8:53 we hear; "..., we are at the end of Part 2 and we're going to take the crank pulley bolt out by holding one of the camshafts with the 17m socket."
That confused me. I eventually figured out (I think) that the "crank pulley bolt" you refer to is the bolt that was removed in Part 1 that held the harmonic balancer in place over the crank pulley (one drives the timing belt, the other the serpentine belt). I think the bolt was put back in temporarily to crank the engine by hand as needed.
But, removing it as you did seems like it puts unnecessary stain on the teeth of the brand new timing belt. Am I mistaken? Why not use the special tool, or have I misinterpreted everything?
2) I am completely confused by "34.7 torque plus 60 degrees" when replacing the crank pulley (or harmonic balancer as it was called when removed in part 1). I can't tell if you torqued to 34.7, then cranked the engine crank 60 degrees then torqued to 34.7 again. Or if you torqued to 34.7, then actually turned the bolt 60 more degrees while holding the crank stationary.
Thanks for any help.
You are correct on part 1, the crank pulley bolt is the same bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on. As far as part 2, you are supposed to be using the special holder tool to keep the pulley from moving, torque to 34.7ftlbs, and then tighten the bolt another 60 degrees. Let me reiterate that this 60 degrees is to tighten the bolt, so you continue to use the holding tool to keep the pulley from moving while you add the 60 degrees of rotation of tightening to the bolt. There are angle measure marks in the plastic above the harmonic balancer to help visualize the 60 degrees. I recommend a 12 point socket and as high toothed of a ratchet as possible to get as close to the 60 degrees as you can.
You didn't bleed the tensioner or put loctite on the bolts
He clearly removes the entire tensioner.
And you didn’t see the bolts to know if they are lock-tited
But he is incredibly ballsy using a 3ft torque wrench to turn 9ft lbs.
that is asking to strip a fastener.
This question implies that loctite is required, is it?
Where is part 2 ????
This comment is posted on part 2. But here is part 1:ua-cam.com/video/5OlGXPBTelg/v-deo.html and part 2: ua-cam.com/video/ZRVYCseYLpw/v-deo.html
what Brand digital torque wrench are you using?
I didn't buy it. It was a store brand from a home improvement big box in the upper Midwest.
You skipped what a huge pain installing the water pump L shaped side seal is. I’ve been at it 2 a half hours and had the water pump partly in 6 times. Out of the entire job, its the single most difficult part.
You must have a slightly different engine and pump. Our 2012 Legacy had no L shaped side seal on the water pump.
The trick I found to getting the L shaped seal in with the water pump was to lead with the passenger side of the water pump. My kept getting pulled off whenever I put the pump in straight. Getting the seal past that leading edge of the block first made things way smoother
I change My belt Every 10k miles.
Why?
Why is every single "car fix it" video made from the perspective that "we the viewer" already know what we are doing? So many questions left unanswered. Very very typical, even Chiltons manuals are written this way.
J
No instruction of the real important parts. You just took a video of you and a friend burning a Saturday
I'm speechless. And I pride myself on being verbal with an attention to detail.