How (not) to Install Wardrobes in a Day, Part 2: Doors & Scribes
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Second and final part of this detailed build video showing me building fitted wardrobes on my own with 18mm MFC (Melamine Faced Chipboard) and vinyl wrap doors.
If the content of my channel helps you with a project or helps your business please help me to continue to create new content by supporting me at:
www.buymeacoff...
Thanks!
Great video - love that you included mistakes, so much more helpful and informative than when people don't.....
Nice job, i have been a carpenter for 49 yrs, hate doing fitted wardrobes for others as they never seem to decide what they really want until you have finished. Great video with honest opinions & things don't always go to plan but it's how we get over it that makes a tradesman !!
Nice work, I thought you did a very nice job. Every job has its share of surprises 👍
Yes it does! Thanks for this comment I appreciate it
Thank you so much for this, it's very much appreciated. Your honesty and integrity is a breath of fresh air compared to a lot of other videos on the same subject where any mistakes don't seem to exist. Anyone who has even attempted such a task learns more from their mistakes and you're kind enough to highlight and more importantly show how you over came these.
You should consider a series of videos from the design through to fitting for the DIY'er, and offer it as a paid for product, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. Great work and frankly, I don't know where you find the time from to run the business and do this. Thank you for doing it.
Pinpoint Trader thanks very much for your appreciation and I condsider one of the USP’s of my channel to be honest insights into a real growing business that involved more than one man (as opposed to a DIYer or a sole trader). You are right than it is becoming increasingly difficult to justify the time involved in YouTubing about it, but a few kind and broad minded subscribers like yourself have already suggested ways to further monetise it and I have some plans in the pipeline. For now I am welcoming small (or large!) donations via www.buymeacoffee.com/Freebird from anyone who has taken value from my videos. It’s easy to do using either PayPal or Stripe.
Freebird Interiors yes, I made a donation after watching this morning. Thanks again, and look forward to your future projects.
Pinpoint Trader thanks very much!
Thanks for your honesty, not all job is going to go the way you want it and you will have to improvise as you go along. This gives a lot of new joiners the confidence to not get too stressed out when a job is challenging .it's about correcting the problem and having patience
Yes I agree, everyone makes mistakes - it's how you deal with them that matters
Considering your self taught mate that is one of the best installs I’ve seen, absolutely faultless keep up the excellent work 👍
That’s very nice of you to say, I’m surprised you can call it faultless but thank you!
I’ve just watched this second video on fitted wardrobes, very informative as per usual. Hopefully I may have a little tip for you when fitting side scribes & ceiling infills. Once the scribe is cut to size / shape, the method I use for fixing is this : screw fix a length of timber to the rear of the scribe, set back about 1mm from the edge which meets the carcass edge ( you could use 2mm which would then give you the required overlay which you like. So that the most outer doors can be pushed inwards to close up door gaps).You can then screw fix this though the side of the carcase behind where the arm of the hinge would be. I’d also locate a screw towards the top & bottom depending on the hinge positions. I tend to set the BACK of the scribe approx 2mm from the front edge of the carcase, you can see the timer at this stage but once the door is hung this is no longer visible. The face of the scribe then should be now be flush with the door face. Same principle with the ceiling infill. Should the door face need to moved in or out from the carcase you can easily move the scribe to suit by repositioning the fixing screws. I would imagine if they’re held tight back to the carcase face with the glue technique then they would be slightly set back from the door face? Another couple of pointers I’ve found looks neater. Have to side scribes manufactured the same height of the doors then the lines I think look much better. The plinth & ceiling infill would need to run the full width , wall to wall / skirting to skirting depending on the scenario but installed using the side scribe method. I hope this proves useful & its makes sense, it’s purely for cosmetic reasons I use this method ;)
Always looking for time saving tips & techniques!!
Keith Brigham good method, I have sometimes used this approach, and I agree it can look better to set the scribe forward to account for the door position allowing for soft bumpers. Lately my preoccupation has been with avoiding cracking caulk lines so I like how the method used in this video avoids the risk of that because the scribes are bonded to the wall rather than the carcase
Freebird Interiors The caulking issue . Here’s what I’ve found out through experience. Things expand & contract depending on air humidity, dryer in winter with central heating being on with the reverse being in the summer. So, with timber, mdf & possibly even the paint etc containing some amount of moisture then there’s always going to be movement. Caulk being another example containing moisture . The tighter you make your scribes & infills ( which is what’s its all about) then the less the caulk has to hold onto. My approach is to keep scribes & infills as tight as possible but then use some 300grit or so sand paper. Place this on a block then sand a very small chamfer on the cut edge to the wall or ceiling infills . This then creates a very small void so the caulk can grab onto. As you smooth over with a profiled finishing tool you’re then forcing the caulk into the joint & hopefully sealing the raw edge slightly as you go....all in one fell swoop! I’ve never been called back to re-caulk any jobs, not that I’m saying non of mine have cracked it’s just no one has contacted me with this. They may have been re-caulked or filled when decorating has even done?
Always looking for time saving tips & techniques.
I just commented the same, then saw your comment.
Exactly the way I do it
Great video really enjoy your honest approach
I like this video, this is how you learn by watching things that others don't show, good video thanks very appreciated
I also am a fan of Festool and now have 10 Systainers of great power tools plus the MFT table and just love my ts55 and track saw system. Great tools make for great results.
I so much love your techniques. It's very understandable
Thank you!
Great video.keeping it real and not just Rosie.
Great video been fitting kitchens and wardrobes for 20 yr and i never stop learning and love the gonest approach mistakes and.all. everybody makes errors that come back to bite them it how we learn. keep up the good work ,loving it.👍
I’m really liking your videos! I normally swipe straight past videos longer than 15 minutes but your videos are clear, insightful and don’t seem long at all.
I generally make furniture such as dining tables but lately I’m getting a lot of jobs doing bespoke wardrobes and cabinets so your videos have been super helpful.
Thanks for sharing your work! You deserve to be earning some top 💰 from you UA-cam 👍🏼
Sam Penniston thanks for telling me that! I’m glad the videos are helping you. UA-cam ad revenue is pitiful. On the recommendation of some past subscribers I set up a crowd funding page - www.buymeacoffee.com/Freebird. More recently I have started providing extra incentives for anyone who signs up monthly (just £3 per month). If you sign up you get this generous pdf alcove cabinets construction guide. instagram.com/p/B4qKiopA2Hj/?igshid=1skdljp2f46pg And I am going to start releasing a series called ‘fitted furniture masterclass’ for paid subscribers only at first, prior to releasing it publicly later. The crowdfunding donations will help me justify keeping providing content, as I take on the extra time and cost pressures of a new rented workspace from January. I want to share he highs and lows of that because I know it will help others considering those steps of growth. I believe I am offering massive value to woodworking business owners that will pay back far more than the small subscription, but for it to work for me I need the numbers. If you can recommend the channel more widely to friends or online that would be great 👍
I like your 'Frank' and 'Honest' approach to the task in hand. Also, you have quite an incredible ability to impart useful information in a way that is easily absorbed by the listener. I am a simple weekend warrior, keen DIY enthusiast who developed my passion when first introduced to woodwork in secondary school back in 1964. I still get excited about projects that I can undertake for family and friends, not forgetting my dear wife's wishes too. I have just discovered you and subscribed to your channel and am not at all surprised that you have almost 14,ooo followers. I am also very pleased that I already apply some of the techniques that you detail in your videos, and also know that I have much to learn.
Thank you for this comment Peter. It is very encouraging!
Just in case you don’t know (no obligation) I am posting more regular content now over at my member site, including a Vlog series charting the setting up of our new workshop: www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird
I have enjoyed your videos fella. I know nothing about joinery/bedroom fitting so this has been very interesting for me. Thanks for your honesty and willingness to show us your work, great job!!
James Doherty you’re welcome, thank you
Love the second video, what I've realised as old age continues to creep in is 'work tunnel vision'. What I mean by that is I get so wrapped up in the job I loose the big picture as I'm concentrating on the job on a step by step basis. Add the time restraint pressure (even though I'm retired) and it all adds up.
I also suffer from tool blindness, an affliction Ive had for quite a few years now. I put a tool down, most times in front of me or very near and then I can't find it when I need it. You do a great job, you provide valuable employment and pay your taxes. I really admire what you do, so don't be too hard on yourself, hind site gives is an exacting science.
Mike S I also suffer from tool blindness! Mainly pencil blindness 😆
I've designed and built lot's of storage units for myself and family as a hobby but never been brave enough to really integrate them properly. I found this very helpful and has given me the confidence to try a new approach on my next project and have had similar issues with CNC fabricated parts too. Thanks very much indeed!
Chan Spencer I’m glad it’s been helpful, good luck with your projects!
Very useful thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, I appreciate the comment
Nice work, and it was definitely worth bringing the top filler flush- looks much better. Thanks for the video, really useful
satanismybrother yeah it needed to be done. Glad it was useful
Lovely job. I can never get door gaps perfect like that.
pcb1962 why do you think that is?
@@Alastair_Freebird I guess the carcass has to be perfectly square in all 3 dimensions, and the doors perfectly flat - never quite works out for me, can get 2 out of 3 dimensions perfect but never quite the third. More practice required.
What a great job, very professional I wish there had been all the fantastic draw systems years ago would have made my job a lot easier, its great to watch how you use all the modern equipment as you do thank you for sharing.
Just found your channel. Really interesting to see how fitted wardrobes of installed, especially with the scribing element which leaves a really clean looking finish. Those draw runners look really easy to install, with the various adjustments, but I guess they are rather pricey? but quality always comes at a price. You also explain each element of the fitting process clearly. You have given me the confidence to install fitted wardrobes as a keen DIYer.
Great! Thanks for the feedback. Yes quite pricey runners
my tip for drawers- instead of cutting notches out the back piece, make the back of drawer smaller in width, so that bottom just passes over it-but here is the tip: when you groove the front, and sides for the 1/4 inch or 6 mm bottom, groove the back piece too- now the clever bit, groove the back piece both sides, i.e. flip it. It will leave tiny 0.5 mm strip that needs to planed off ( just make groove depth a wee bit less than half the thickness) . The back will be the correct width now, and of course all the grooves will line up with the back piece. Super quick and accurate. Slide in the bottom piece, insert 2 or 3 screws, and that is it. It has several advantages: tidy, no notches, bottom can be replaced or fixed, screws make bottom nice and stable, won't rattle, and faster!
by width I mean the 'height' of the drawers...
Interesting idea! Is the double groove just a way of cutting the back shorter, assuming it’s more efficient to cut all the parts at same width first on table saw? And the screws go up through the rear of the base panel, instead of the (missing) groove acting as support? I think it’s debatable though whether this is much of a time saving versus quick notching of the back on bandsaw or jigsaw or whatever, which doesn’t really needs to be very neat
@@Alastair_Freebird yes the double groove is a just a way of cutting the back to width quickly, and accurately, without measuring. I guess I just don't like notches either. It is easy to slide the back in too. This can be done at any time to suit-either during drawer glue up or after-which is handy if you want to finish the bottom, or just crack on with other jobs. Cheers.
Really good video learnt alot about scribing and how to make fitting doors easier
Martin O I’m really pleased it helped!
Good informative video AGAIN am learning a good deal ,thanks again
loving the video its always good to see how someone else fits.I might start using them legs as i have a nightmare leveling with 100mm black legs. keep up the good work
Brilliant as usual.
Jay K I’m glad you think so!
Alistair, I am a 66 year old fart who has always enjoyed DIY, and have put many wardrobes together,from cheal MFI to fairly decent ones, and let me tell you that inmy opinion, you did a very good job, and also did a good video.I dont know what type of camera you use, but i bought a cheap £60 go pro type camera from Amazon, think its an Akasso, and it comes with many types of " holders of fitments that will secure the camera leaving your hands free ". The quality is very good,sk maybe wortha thought, I come from Barnsley, a stones throw from you so if you want to borrow it to film a job,by all means arrnange to collect, you are more than welcome to try it out mate, anyway thanks for posting, keep up the good work, from Garry in Barnsley
Thanks very much Gary! Actually I do have a GoPro style camera (Yi brand), with those sorts of fitments. I has problems with limited battery life though and also I imagined disfficulties with checking what the camera is actually seeing, if I strap it to me. Using the iphone obviously has some downsides and ties up my hands but I think the best next step is to get an easy to move and adjust mini tripod, those gorilla ones, and do more shots like that. It's the difficulty of balancing recording with efficient work!
Excellent video...
James thanks for watching!
Great video. Im a carpenter but not done many fitted wardrobes so good to take some tips from someone who really knows what they're doing. Any chance you could show how you do the designs on sketchup? I've recently got on there, not used it yet and looking to start doing more of this type of thing.
Hi I suggest you work your way through my playlist ‘Sketchup for fitted furniture makers’ 👍
ua-cam.com/play/PL8WrSzZHZZN9DSOso0ezrfNwzHt0WHStG.html&si=AgBleNe5YT-kNqUE
@Alastair_Freebird cheers mate, I'll check it out 👍
Great video mate 👍👍
Nice job, doing my own fitted wardrobe, can you tell me how much gap should i leave each side of the carcass?
I used to work to about an inch and a half / 36mm as my standard gap (for various reasons). But more recently I standardised on 60mm, to give a but more room for the door to swing open and the handle not to hit the wall
Great video it shows the real installation process what something happens and how to get out of situation 👍🏻 Anyway do you have a link for the EFC website you buy the doors from bud ? Cheers
Pawel Janiak thanks! The website is www.ecf.co (yes that is correct just .co). However, the best range of vinyl doors they supply, called the Austerhousr range, is actually manufactured by Browns2000 and redistributed by ECF. It’s still worth going through ecf because they still do just as good of a price and are arguably a bit more organised with delivery and communication. But you might be interested to look at browns own website www.browns2000.co.uk/ I have tried a lot of vinyl doors and these are the best I have found - dense stable mdf core and thick good quality vinyl. Their gloss slab doors are extremely good too.
Very well done! Both the closet, and the video. Really nice. Thank you. Lots of very interesting information.
How much should a customer expect to pay, ball park, for such closet, all in? I've barely ever cut a piece of wood, I'm wondering whether it makes sense to experiment, or if I should just pay a pro.
We are typically in the region of £1200 to £1400 per linear metre of fitted wardrobes PLUS drawers at between £150 and £200 per drawer. There are cheaper providers
Thanks!
@@Alastair_Freebird ah, that's a very helpful idea of cost, thank you! And keep up the good work, and please keep posting such videos, the world needs quality content about how to make useful things like these!
Fantastic....
Maybe you explained, but why did you put the gaps between the wall and boxes on each side? Why didn’t you just go hard up against the vertical piece of wood that’s against the wall?
good question and here are a couple of reasons: 1: walls are never perfectly straight and plumb so there'd need to be some packing pieces in a gap in places along the vertical length anyway; 2: without a bit of a scribe strip, the doors cant open to 90 degrees without the handles hitting the wall. 3: it's just altogether harder to fit the units if you try and pack them tight. Easier to have a bit of wiggle room while levelling and making adjustments. Early on I prided myself on keeping wall scribes fairly slim - 30 to 50mm. I felt it was a sign of truly bespoke work, maximising storage space and avoiding the wide scribes that often result from companies who only use standard width carcases. More recently I have standardised on 60mm widths (but they are always sent to site at 80mm wide to be scribed to the actual shape of the wall on site). It's annoying when they are too narrow and doors hit walls.
Love the video, may I ask. Are you just caulking/glueing the scribes into place? No brads?
Yes. Occasionally I have had to remove furniture fitted in this way with only modern gap filling adhesive holding the scribes. The difficulty I had removing them totally put my mind at rest about the strength of adhesive alone!
great video, which is the best place to buy ready made wardrobe carcasses?
Trade or DIY? I know a few options but they’d need a trade account. Or if you’re not too far from sheffield you might persuade us to make some for you, we CNC cut and drill our own now, much better than what you see in this old video
One thing I may have missed in the infill set up section. The doors will always be 2mm off the carcass face, making a total of 20mm. But the infill is out of 18mm material. Does that mean the infill is set back 2mm?
When I prepare my infills, I use a length of carcass material behind the infill piece and screwed to the carcass, that way I can project the infill by 2mm, to sit flush with the door front. Using carcass colour material means that 2mm is almost unnoticeable.
Bad Robot apologies I seem to have missed this comment at the time. That is a good method! With slightly chamfered arrises on both doors and scribes I find the 2mm difference is not a big deal if the 18mm scribe material is ending up a bit set back but it’s probably better your way!
Hey very enjoyable, I am a starter when it comes to wardrobes and trying to learn quickly. You know the space plugs was it your intention at the outset to use on each side and above or just above? ps what size were they please? pss you are very calm on the job when things do not go quite to plan - a good characteristic to have
Christopher Claudio Skierka hi they were the smaller spaceplugs and I think I had in mind to use them at the walls too. To be honest the whole arrangement with packing and fitting scribes is something I’ve been working on improving and I’m moving toward using a grooved backer strip fitted to the sides of the unit, with dominoes or biscuits located in rear of scribe to attach them to the grooved strip. I used not to be calm! I think experience taught me there is a solution for everything and stressing about it doesn’t make it any better!
Thanks for the reply much appreciated. Can i also ask you....that shelf span looks quite wide. Would you ever make a shelf with a span above 90cm with 18mm ply? Also would you ever make a drawer with the same span?,,its a bit borderline I think but i have never tried it.
Nice job. How did you seal the joints on the scribed edges? Wax or stixall?
Ooh I don’t remember is it not shown? Generally I rub caulk well into the cut edge before pushing up against the wall and re-caulking the gap. If I feel it needs bonding to the wall better I might put adhesive on the back edge.
Great video - lots of useful information .
what is the lawcris mfc code you use for your white internal carcass' ?
thanks
Thanks, I’m glad it was helpful. The Egger code is W989 ST2 Platinum White
Hi Alistair, may I ask, when scribing the left infill, it looks like you have a red plastic device to help to scribe to the ovolo skirting. Is that right? May I ask what it is? Thanks, Paul
Hi Paul, yes it is a scribing aid that offsets the point of the pencil by 18mm (either from the flat side or the pointed side), called the tri scribe from a small business called swanky scribe. I'm not sure if they're still going, try messaging them here: instagram.com/swankyscribe/
Thanks for reply Alistair 😊
so informative thanks! you said you take off 2 mm either side for doors, do you know what vid you covered this in?
Zak J apologies I seem to have missed this comment... honestly I’m not sure right now!
Great video! Quick question: what is the height of the doors? I would like to make an approximate 8’0” single HPL door panel but I am concerned about warping. Any comment would be appreciated?
Hi I’m not very familiar with HPL (high pressure laminate?), how thick is the board you are using? Anyway these doors were about 2.1 m I think but we have done these vinyl wrapped doors at 2.4m (8’) and up to 600mm wide and they have just about been ok however I was concerned they might bend a little since they are only 18mm thick. When we make our own doors we use 22mm thick MR mdf
@@Alastair_Freebird Thanks for your quick response. The thickness of this HPL is 20m. Like you I was a little concerned with them bending but see how I live in a very arid climate I believe it will be OK.
Great video. Could you tell me the name of the green clips you use to keep the filler strip in place. I would like to purchase some myself
Liam Cowan U-scribe jigs instagram.com/uscribejig?igshid=86aswpv4ipyz
Love the video, just a quick question - On the Part 1 of this video there is a gap where the wardrobe carcass meets the ceiling, but on Part 2 this gap has gone. What do you use to fill the gap and front it?
David Chapman did I not show that? I used some of the vinyl wrapped plinth material.
@@Alastair_Freebird thanks for the reply. I don't think you did, but maybe I missed it?! Either way, it looks great 👌
👍
Did u use silicone to fill in the gap between your scribe and the wall?
I can’t remember what I was using at this time but not silicone - either Caulk Once from Everbuild or maybe more of a combined adhesive/sealant (I’ve tried a few)
@@Alastair_Freebird thank you. I have been in the manufacturing and cabinate making trade for 10 years and always wanted to make and install fitted furniture. Your videos have been very helpful.
Good video. Abit off topic but do you have any tips on how to plane down a gloss wrapped Mdf hinge plate. With out the wrapping shattering and chipping. I’ve got to take 4mm off the 18mm hinge plate. Thanks in advance
Leon Cowburn not sure I’ve understood what you mean by hinge plate in this context... but anyway if planing gloss wrapped mdf I’d use the Festool EHL 65 planer taking off only a little at a time. The spiral cutting blade is less aggressive than normal planers. Not much help if you don’t already have one though I know! Or a well set up rail saw with fresh edge strip on the rail and a first pass just a couple of mm to cut the vinyl, then second pass right through but perhaps shifted a hair’s breadth over to be sure of not catching the vinyl edge again.
Freebird Interiors sorry I wasn’t very clear. It’s basically a 2 door hinged wardrobe coming off a chimney breast with a projection panel I’ve got all the framing in and face frame but messed up opening width for the doors. And rather than rescribing the right hand infill which would mean the top and bottom infills would be 4 mm to short.im going to plane down the 18mm thick hinge plates which are placed which are fixed onto the left and right infills to make correct opening width for the doors. Sorry it probably doesn’t make much sense but the wardrobes we fit are front frames with no bases or backs.
Leon Cowburn so planing down some 18mm strips to make them thinner than 18mm? FESTOOL planer would probably do it ... or maybe make a sort of router sled to skim thickness off! Hard to say without seeing...
You may find using a compass for your scribes easier and quicker than the scribing gadgets you have, only to resort to holding a pencil for the final scribe!
I have tried quite a few gadgets! I agree a simple compass can be best. My most common gadget I have continued to use is the ‘swanky scribe’ ‘tri-scribe’ - a simple 3D printers block that positions a pencil exactly 18mm off either a flat face or a pointed face.
hello sir i hope your day is going ok. Can I ask you a question please,,, I know you use kreg (which I purchased the R3 version) for the screwing the side panels into the back panels for your wardrobes and because you are screwing from the outside - in , do you use some right angled clamps to hold in place since you cannot put it on a worktop to do so. ? if you do which ones do you use. Thanks in advance Alastair
Hi yes we started off doing it that way, but now we are so familiar with holding the parts in place by hand and allowing for about 1mm sideways movement upon tightening that we can do it manually and it ends up flush. Sometimes this requires some loosening, shifting, and retightening of screws
But before we got used to doing it that way we used this clamp: www.toolstoreuk.co.uk/kreg-khcra-int-right-angle-clamp-with-automaxx/p6751?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuL_8BRCXARIsAGiC51BHPHyOm0zR3kaGQ8d1gSy-JyG_Wp6Rsk5uVCGa5McOvTGA-1I5azQaApB_EALw_wcB
Or one like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124289038298
@@Alastair_Freebird thanks,,I have been wondering for the last couple of days and yes the little shift it does can be a pain but over all these joints are actually pretty strong more than i thought it would be , thanks again
@@Alastair_Freebird ahh right , yes i have that one but I thought on the big pieces you might also use something like this also: www.toolstoreuk.co.uk/kreg-khccc-90deg-corner-clamp-automaxx/p6981?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuL_8BRCXARIsAGiC51AtAvLLRhYcGqIclctpE6_p8bsLG0eiHfp5zY3OffVvnxmd55E7YA4aAvVsEALw_wcB
You should put Amazon affiliate links in your description and make a few quid from it for example the movento sliders
You’re right to be honest I am missing out on a ton of potential earning opportunities I think. But the member site model is doing pretty well: www.buymeacoffee.com/Freebird
I had a kitchen with vinyl warped doors I find heat and humidity get behind it eventually and lifts
david osullivan it can happen. It’s not inevitable with quality doors but there have been plenty of bad batches I’ve heard of over the years - combinations of wrong glue interacting with things in the board. My preferred door manufacture Browns2000 (who resell through ECF) had this happened some years back and traced it to an excess of pine resin in the mdf core board reacting with the glue. They overhauled their process and materials to be absolutely sure this would never happen again and that’s one reason I trust their doors now.
Freebird Interiors that’s very interesting. I have glued up a lot of pine that was very resinous in a the past and always felt it should be treated like oily woods ( teak iroko etc) . . In my home it’s all the cabinets in and around the cooking area that have lifted quite badly so I just presumed it was steam and heat .thanks for reply , Stay safe Dave
david osullivan yes definitely steam and heat can lead to delaminating, but exacerbated by a poor bond in the first place
What Model of dust extractor are you using?
Hello sorry I missed this comment early on. On site it was the Festool CTL Midi
Hi how much would you charge to build something like this including the material
About £1200 per linear metre plus about £160 per drawer
Can a hobbyist do vinyl wrap the mdf in house
MySchizo Buddy it’s done with a large flat bed sort of shrink wrapping and heating machine for these doors I would not recommend trying to do anything similar when you can just buy them in done properly
How do you rate the stixall? For glue and caulking?
S.P.Joinery I still feel I haven’t found the perfect solution but it’s the nearest at the moment. My criteria for a good caulk/adhesive hybrid is: sticks well. Wipes off easily without leaving stubborn residue. Smooths to a nice caulk line. Stays brilliant white without discolouring later. Can also be overpainted if necessary. The Stixall is mid priced for this sort of thing (£4ish vs £9 ish for CT-1). It stays more brilliant white and smooth than CT-1 I think. It skins over so can be painted in an hour or so. However it doesn’t really dry under a thin skin for ages so you have to be careful. If you get too much on the face and don’t have the right type of wipes that rub it off fully you can end up with an unfixable mess of sticky rubbery bobbles that just keep rolling and sticking when you try to rub them off after a certain time.
Freebird Interiors good to know, I’m always on the look out for something new to try but still havent found the perfect one i do like sticks like shit but its pricey, also just tried ever builds instant nails at 99p a tube its well worth a go
S.P.Joinery I do use instant nails and the like, for sticking hidden parts only, it’s less suitable to ac as a cult joint too as it smooths less well, is a bit more brittle and I think more prone to greying
what us the size of the cabinet door?
Something like 2300x600mm I think
I hate when u start a job and the supplier has messed up the order!! 😭
Clearly an office worker
This type of work takes all sorts Richard. How would you go about it?