Total agree with Joel really handy series and also can I publicly thank Peter again for helping me out when I emailed Peter he went out of his way to help me the man's a gent Cheers Harry
If all education was this entertaining, or is it if all entertainment was this educational...? Love the series. A gold mine of knowledge and easy going vids. Looking forward to the new podcast season by the way. Cheers.
Thank you so much for this series on scribing. Trying to work out, in my head, how to scribe with a resulting interior offset was liquifying my brain for some reason. Watching your method made the process so obvious & it "clicked" for me. Much appreciated!
It is a good idea to make a base for your jigsaw out of spare board, and invert it, clamped solid in anything from a workmate to a bench vice. This gives you so much more control over the cutting line, when cutting scribe lines.
It’s not rocket science the man said, well probably not but it’s something I’ve struggled to get my brain around. No I’m not a pro, just a dad like many of you who wants to do a professional job. So this have been a great mini series and as others have said... Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
nice work Peter, some great videos explaining scribing, offsets and methods of getting the best results even with diy understanding or even none, one of the points we raised when developing the u-scribejig was to make it as simple as possible for people to mark the perfect scrible line, the importance of marking the material is key, with practice anyone can get Better using basic tools like a jigsaw, plane and sander, leaving that pencil line in and working up to it is also very important as the pencil line is on the opposite side of your scribe block so removing it will remove an excessive 2mm perhaps. plus is comes back to the old saying 'you can take more off but you can't add it back on' great videos Peter were glad to of featured and helped 👍🏻
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fine when you're painting. I need to butt oak panelling up against a bulging wall that finished in something like Artex, i.e. cheesegrater paint. Fortunately the client (me) is very tolerant.
Love seeing your techniques , always something to learn. Couldn’t help but notice that For the first scribe, use the combi square to keep the mdf marker plumb and it the scribe should be a tighter fit 👌
Great vid, I like to put a v point on the top of the scribe block and keep it vertical while copying the profile if you want to get it super accurate, especially if caulking isn't an option 👍
Thanks for this series. I have done so many of these fillers and struggle with all but the most simple. Tedious and slow for me. Something about the offsets, the pieces being wider than the space and needing to remain thick enough to fill the space and working in the negative space that just locks my brain up. Good vids to ref mid project.
My first thought on the first of these was "spindle sander." Since then I have wondered why you didn't use the round end of the belt sander. Glad so see you finally did. I did hope to see you go round a cornice.
That is a top series Peter, and one that I’ve saved in UA-cam and labeled for future reference. I learned a lot there. Thanks very much for taking the time.
Hi Peter, what a fantastic set of three videos! As a fellow professional (Kitchen, bedroom and study installation. Enhanced-Kitchens based in Sheffield). It’s always interesting looking at others techniques, in order to make that extra 1% improvement upon my own techniques. Also great for beginners new to the game to learn the skills. Thankyou for taking the time to make these videos. I’ll certainly be watching more of them.
Very useful! But surely with a ceiling bulge as big as that one, using a marking block perpendicular to the ceiling no longer works due to the extreme angle. You need the vertical measurement. But "caulk it and go home" is where I would be going... :)
When you scribe you have to keep the block or scribers facing in the direction that the piece of wood you're scribing will be travelling at all time, in this case, up to a ceiling, the block should stay vertical as the scribed piece will be going straight up @ 90º, If like you did & let the block follow the ceiling swaying from side to side a bit like a pendulum, where the pencil is was changing from 270º to less degrees then to more degrees the distance changes, It's hard to describe, The block should also be as narrow as poss because the corner of the block is touching the ceiling/wall but your pencil is in the middle of the block, you could cut the corners off leaving a flat point, not reducing the length, then the block will be touching opposite & parallel to the pencil.
@@10MinuteWorkshop yeap saw that watched this one first, didn't go back to delete it because i thought it was useful to others who haven't seen your other vid 😉
Great series there and a few little tips that I’ll use on my next installation. Only thing I’m not a fan of is using jigsaw upside down so I always use downcut blades. Thanks for the tips Peter, going to look at your other videos now.
Thanks Steve; re the upside down jigsaw - as I say, use whatever works for you, but a regular blade in an upside down jigsaw 1/keeps the shoe off the workpiece 2/ keeps the cut line clear and the blade clearly visible, and 3/ pulls the workpiece into the jigsaw, instead of pushing it away. Works for me 👍
Michael, unfortunately never did get an answer - I am guessing you would use the offset blocks if you didn't have the U-scribe jigs to get the scribing piece flush as he shows @@michaellloyd5024
Love your videos, watched many and have learned a lot. Last year I had the pleasure of working alongside two amazing millwork guys on a job and their scribes were awe-inspiring. A couple of tricks I learnt: - Use a jigsaw at a roughly 10% backcut and leave the line on - Finish the scribe up to the line with a small palm belt sander such as the Porter Cable 371K I have not had the time (or courage) to try these techniques yet, but will be doing so soon.
Good video, enjoyed this mini series., How about a part 4 showing how to correctly fit a cabinet end panel? Keeping the peice flush at the front but scribed into the wall at the back? Many thanks
hi, when you were scribing using infinity method with U-scribe jig, you could use same width off cut as you board and that should give you same scribe line which would be faster than finding out a lowest point. finding out lowest point would be hard on the wall with shallow dips, or am I wrong?
One of the ceilings in our 'new' house has about a 100mm drop in the centre, which I didn't notice until I was replacing the light. After some further investigation, it turned out what they had done when they 'renewed' the ceiling was just screw some batons through the original plaster into the joist, then put up some 3mm hardboard and artex over that! Leaving all the original plaster to just fall off and gather on the top of the hardboard!
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh, trust me that was the good part of the refurbishment! They moved the loft hatch so it was directly above the bath, and they had it going the same direction as the bath, so the only way to get up was to put ladders in the bath, which obviously ended up with them putting a hole in the bath! (did I mention the word bath?) There were 3 ceilings in the landing, there was the original plaster ceiling, then a ceiling below that from about 30 years ago, and then another ceiling below that from about 10 years ago! So the landing ceiling height was a full 800mm lower than the original! And when we were tearing out the walls in the extension, we found out that there was an extra 300mm of room behind the wall, because instead of just boxing in the soil pipe, they just built a wall in front of it! This house would have been a perfect case for Cowboy Builders!
@@10MinuteWorkshop We got it at auction for a very good price, so we knew what we were getting ourselves in to. Plus, I don't really mind how long it takes to fix it up, and I would have gutted the place anyway because the layout was awful. It was advertised as a 3 bedroom, but the two rear bedrooms were only wide enough to fit a single bed and maybe one of your infamous side tables!
Brilliant vid again mate. I’d leave The thin section to last, then you minimise the amount of handling for as long as possible, and would reduce the chance of snapping. Speaking from experience 😂
Can you explain about how to cut to size the infill prior to marking the scribe on the second method please I’m a bit unsure on that bit. Thank you great videos.
Peter, I’ve seen a tool for scribing where it’s essentially a compass, with one end a pencil, and the other a small bearing. Keeping the compass vertical gives a perfect line. Surely with a block, you can’t reproduce tight curves?
Thanks Derek. I cover all of this in Part 1 of this series, and I take a look at all the options for scribing to e.g. brickwork or stone walls. This video (Part 3 of the series) is specifically about scribing to a ceiling, where the range of the scribe is extreme - and hopefully where there won't be too many tight curves! As always, and as I say in the round-up at the end of the video, many, many ways to skin this particular cat 👍
Sorry if this seems obvious but why dont you use 'cut on the down stroke' jig saw blades bosch T101BR or T101AO. I scribe all my joints and skirtings etc with those. Just a thought and I really like the videos
Whatever works for you Gary, but I don't like them because a regular blade in an upside down jigsaw 1/keeps the shoe off the workpiece 2/ keeps the cut line clear and the blade clearly visible, and 3/ pulls the workpiece into the jigsaw, instead of pushing it away. And thanks! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I'll second what Peter says , it's a much better way to do it than using down cut blades. I've used jigsaws upside down for so long it seems odd if I ever use them right way up 😂😂
Good series Peter, thank you. I have a question for you (or anyone else who knows the answer), how do you scribe in a cabinet when you can't get to the front edge, for example when you have a cabinet to fit in an alcove. On one side you usually have the cabinet extending beyond the chimney breast by 200mm, or whatever, then you need to put a fillet between the wall and the edge of the cabinet but you can't reference the front edge. Any ideas? I've bodged this for ages by taking a series of measurements and transferring them to the fillet but this is slow and not super accurate. I'm hoping there is an obvious answer to this but I can't think of it!
Two ways; either scribe the infill before you fit the cabinet, then cut the infill width back to fit - this is a straight line so easy to tweak with e.g. a tracksaw. The other way is to do the cabinets differently, and have an end panel that reaches to the front face of the door i.e. the door effectively becomes an inset, not an overlay. It's much easier then to scribe the end panel to the face of the chimney-breast, than to do a fiddly little infill. That's how I did it, anyway. HTH P 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, Excellent advice, I'll try the pre-scribe style on my next wardrobe. Like you, I think I'm probably coming to the end of my wardrobe days anyway, too old and feeble to continue (not like you I'm sure!).
On your wardrobe fit video, I saw a different method. Perhaps because the ceiling infill panel was quite deep, you had pegs of wood with pieces of correx? attached up to the ceiling. Is that correct? I have a couple of wardrobes that will need a top infill panel about 200mm wide.
What about scribing for a shelf in a three-sided 2’x2’ alcove? I’m having a go with a smaller piece of wood and a ticking (sp?) stick, but not got it right yet!
had a go today against a wavy ceiling...made a right mess , a bad day at the office. have another crack on Friday. How where you when you first did one?
Went back to it yesterday used a piece of wood and result was OK definitely a pass. All these gizmos on the market, what a waste of money,, tried a couple and at least they are as good as a piece of scrap wood at best not better. So save your money guys and girls.
"That isn't the best job I've ever done" Thankfully, god created caulking! When I re-did my kitchen, there were some gaps between the molding and the ceiling. After a little white caulking you would be hard pressed to find them.
Sorry I'm struggling to get my head around this. If the widest part from the ceiling to the top of the cabinet, for arguments sake is 3", wouldn't you first rip the filler strip to it's widest length? being 3"? You sort of gloss over that bit when cutting down to size. Sorry I'm an idiot. :/
Hi John. Links in the video description, as always. Tongue-tite screws - amzn.to/2ouKU5I (US: amzn.to/2pGBVk3) Lost-tite screws - amzn.to/2pGnUFD (US: amzn.to/2pVKqa6)
Peter Millard Thank you for your reply, but the smallest screws I can find on Amazon is 32mm long, I’m using for scribing material around 18 mm so they may be too long.
They’re designed with flooring in mind, so they don’t come in very short lengths, but you can get 25mm lost tite from many places eg toolstation - no affiliate link for them I’m afraid, but it’s an easy search 👍
Well to be clear, I know how to undercut with the jigsaw - it’s not something I’d recommend to relative beginners though, who this series is aimed at. Also some jiggy’s (mine’s one) don’t do a bevel cut without a separate base. 👍
No bevel on my (and many other) jigsaws without a separate base. Also didn’t want to get into that in a beginner series - hard enough to follow a line with a jiggy without complicating things with a bevel. 👍👍
I've learned a fair bit from your videos( but not this one I'm afraid!) so please allow me to return the kindness.. Your scribes are going wrong when you hit very irregular areas,in this case the crest in the middle of the cabinet due to the fundamental limitations of the frankly crude technique you are using. Your accuracy would be significantly improved if the offcut was cut as a V-point at the 'top' and kept in the same orientation throughout i.e. no rotating/rolling over the bumps. Or,to put it another way-You should be using dividers! I have used the same dividers for 20 years and they were very old when I got them for £2 at a second hand tool fair.They are incredibly useful and accurately report distances/spaces in seconds without pencils(a la Vernier or callipers) as well as being the ultimate scribing tool. In the same way that a handplane cannot get into low points or accurately report the surface,neither can a block of scrap unless the bearing surface is infinitely short in length ,i.e. dividers. I can also clearly see that you are rotating the scribing block over the curves and thus reporting information to the wrong location on the infill. Placing a finger between the 2 surfaces,running your fingernail against the surface you are fitting to and using a proper rectangular(NOT oval a la Chinese cr@p) carpenter's penci,square to the scribe plane, would be much quicker and more accurate than this offcut method,which could only work on surfaces with minor and gradual deviations. The offset can easily be adjusted by varying your grip//no. of fingers used.The fingernail won't mark the wall/ceiling,is low-friction and won't pick up splinters. The hand must always remain in the same plane, as a scribe (until ur really good) can only be done in one direction at a time,so you have to move your body with the pencil i.e. the complete opposite of dodgy UK plasterers who seem to think they can produce a 'flat' surface(e.g. for skirting boards) without moving their feet or bending their knees :-) 1 more thing- why don't you simply angle the bed of the jigsaw??? That should get you most if not all of the undercut that you may need in 1 simple process. Really enjoy your videos. Keep 'em coming Peter and thanks again.
Thanks Steve. I cover the use of dividers/pair of compasses for very irregular areas in Part 1. Also the many and varied primary coloured scribing aids. A lot of jigsaws don't have an angled base - or have an angled base as an accessory - and tbh scribing to a line with a jigsaw is fiddly enough - for the beginners who this video series is aimed at - that I didn't want to complicate it further by suggesting a bevel cut at the same time. 👍
i had to make a wall in the shape of the cross section on a bus. hands down, chippy steve....not only was yours the virtually free option (the cost of a pencil), but it was the most accurate. i knew reading the comments would provide insight. thank you for your input.
Not all jigsaws can do that - at least, not without an additional base - and cutting to a scribeline can be fiddly enough for relative newcomers without the extra complication. 👍
Thats the worst drywall job Ive ever seen on a cieling. LOL Im sure the builder would have the drywall redone before installing a cabinet on that. But I get your point for demonstration purposes. Thank you for the informative videos!
Actually, it’s far from the worst ceiling that I’ve had to scribe onto. Ceilings like this are very common in older properties here in the UK, and it’s never ‘drywall’ usually lath & plaster. If you’re not familiar with it see video #375 for an explanation and repair. 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks for the explanation. Here in the US only very old homes have the lathe and plaster. I have not worked in many of them. It’s a whole different animal I suppose! 😛
I thought you were going to back out the screw just a hair so the gap is gone on the top and replaces on the cabinet (the doors will hide that). No? I'm just an idiot so if I'm wrong let me know!
![Raised Panel Cabinet Doors in MDF [*Ad] [video 548]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/94TGcWe7PBI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Raised Panel Cabinet Doors in MDF [*Ad] [video 548]](/img/tr.png)
![How to Scribe an infill or filler strip. P1 of 3 [video 352][Gifted/Ad**]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/g0W23buOgoE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cabinet Door Sizing [*Ad] [video 549]](/img/n.gif)
I'm not doing anything, but I enjoy to drink coffee and watch this kind of videos.
Total agree with Joel really handy series and also can I publicly thank Peter again for helping me out when I emailed Peter he went out of his way to help me the man's a gent
Cheers
Harry
Thanks Harry! 👍👍
If all education was this entertaining, or is it if all entertainment was this educational...? Love the series. A gold mine of knowledge and easy going vids. Looking forward to the new podcast season by the way. Cheers.
Thanks Goran! Recorded Episode 31 today, out a week on Monday 👍
The next step would be to show how to scribe a panel that's captured on three edges (e.g., a floor to ceiling end panel). Nice work, Peter.
Thanks! 👍
Thank you so much for this series on scribing. Trying to work out, in my head, how to scribe with a resulting interior offset was liquifying my brain for some reason. Watching your method made the process so obvious & it "clicked" for me. Much appreciated!
It is a good idea to make a base for your jigsaw out of spare board, and invert it, clamped solid in anything from a workmate to a bench vice. This gives you so much more control over the cutting line, when cutting scribe lines.
It’s not rocket science the man said, well probably not but it’s something I’ve struggled to get my brain around. No I’m not a pro, just a dad like many of you who wants to do a professional job. So this have been a great mini series and as others have said...
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers Mike! Glad they’ve hit the right notes 👍👍
As a DIYer I always struggle with scribing, this series is so good it covers all bases and in an easy to understand way. Thank you.
Thanks Matthew! 👍👍
nice work Peter, some great videos explaining scribing, offsets and methods of getting the best results even with diy understanding or even none, one of the points we raised when developing the u-scribejig was to make it as simple as possible for people to mark the perfect scrible line, the importance of marking the material is key, with practice anyone can get Better using basic tools like a jigsaw, plane and sander, leaving that pencil line in and working up to it is also very important as the pencil line is on the opposite side of your scribe block so removing it will remove an excessive 2mm perhaps. plus is comes back to the old saying 'you can take more off but you can't add it back on' great videos Peter were glad to of featured and helped 👍🏻
Cheers Guys! Great to be able to feature your products in the videos - I hope it generates some interest for you! 👍👍
I bought it five minutes after I watch the first video. I'll be using them for the first time tomorrow
A really handy series Peter, thanks! Reminds me of one of my most used DIY sayings - "Try your best, and caulk the rest"!!
Thank you! Got to live a bit of caulk! 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fine when you're painting. I need to butt oak panelling up against a bulging wall that finished in something like Artex, i.e. cheesegrater paint. Fortunately the client (me) is very tolerant.
Get outta town,cowboy! ;-)
Very enjoyable series to help the novice woodworking person. Thx Peter!
Cheers Steve! 👍
Love seeing your techniques , always something to learn. Couldn’t help but notice that For the first scribe, use the combi square to keep the mdf marker plumb and it the scribe should be a tighter fit 👌
Great vid, I like to put a v point on the top of the scribe block and keep it vertical while copying the profile if you want to get it super accurate, especially if caulking isn't an option 👍
'Eminently caulkable'...! Love it. Really informative series Peter and one which will definitely come in handy for me in the next few weeks. Thanks.
Thanks! 😂👍👍
Great series Peter,thanks for a very simple low-down on scribing!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😁
Cheers Alan! 👍
Thanks for this series. I have done so many of these fillers and struggle with all but the most simple. Tedious and slow for me. Something about the offsets, the pieces being wider than the space and needing to remain thick enough to fill the space and working in the negative space that just locks my brain up. Good vids to ref mid project.
Thanks for your video! Very easy to follow.
My first thought on the first of these was "spindle sander." Since then I have wondered why you didn't use the round end of the belt sander. Glad so see you finally did.
I did hope to see you go round a cornice.
I am planning on fitting my first wardrobe with sliding doors - this video has helped me immensely - thank you!!!
Thanks! 👍
That is a top series Peter, and one that I’ve saved in UA-cam and labeled for future reference. I learned a lot there.
Thanks very much for taking the time.
Thanks Howard! 👍👍
Is this the “ my money doesn’t jiggle jiggle, it folds!” Guy!!! 😂 thanks for the video
Great video Peter 👍👍👍👍
Very interesting and useful series. Thank you Peter.
Thanks Richard! 👍
Hi Peter, what a fantastic set of three videos! As a fellow professional (Kitchen, bedroom and study installation. Enhanced-Kitchens based in Sheffield). It’s always interesting looking at others techniques, in order to make that extra 1% improvement upon my own techniques. Also great for beginners new to the game to learn the skills. Thankyou for taking the time to make these videos. I’ll certainly be watching more of them.
Thanks David! Always great to hear from guys in the trade! 👍👍
Peter, thanks for another well composed and informative series. I think my new catch phrase is “caulk it and go home”😀
Thanks Todd! Words to live by, for sure! 😂👍
Thanks for all your videos Peter, really helpful, please keep them coming
Thanks Jordan! 👍👍
Great tips Peter thanks for taking the time to video it.
Thanks Mike! 👍👍
Great video mate good to see u using metric and imperial
Very useful! But surely with a ceiling bulge as big as that one, using a marking block perpendicular to the ceiling no longer works due to the extreme angle. You need the vertical measurement. But "caulk it and go home" is where I would be going... :)
Hi Peter. Another fantastic series of videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge much appreciated.
Thanks Craig! 👍👍
Really enjoyed this mini series Peter, great to pick up some tricks of the trade😀
Thanks Leo! 👍
You are realy smart. I like this series very much. Thank you!
Thanks Frits! 👍👍
as always Peter found this video very informative and useful enjoyed the video.
Thank you! 👍
When you scribe you have to keep the block or scribers facing in the direction that the piece of wood you're scribing will be travelling at all time, in this case, up to a ceiling, the block should stay vertical as the scribed piece will be going straight up @ 90º, If like you did & let the block follow the ceiling swaying from side to side a bit like a pendulum, where the pencil is was changing from 270º to less degrees then to more degrees the distance changes, It's hard to describe, The block should also be as narrow as poss because the corner of the block is touching the ceiling/wall but your pencil is in the middle of the block, you could cut the corners off leaving a flat point, not reducing the length, then the block will be touching opposite & parallel to the pencil.
Yes, I do talk about this on the accompanying blog post at 10minuteworkshop.com. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yeap saw that watched this one first, didn't go back to delete it because i thought it was useful to others who haven't seen your other vid 😉
Hi Peter
I'll give you two thumbs up for using the mini belt sander :-)
Regards
Peter Sanders
Great series I wish I knew them u-scribe exited
before I fitted 20 cabinets for my sister
It would have made it easy when doing a 14ft scribe
This is so helpful. Thanks very much for sharing.
Thanks!👍
Hi Peter informative series as ever!
Steve
Thanks Steve! 👍
Looked pretty good to me Peter, have a nice day !!!.
Cheers Brian! 👍
Great stuff as always Pete, thanks for putting it out there.
Cheers Ian! 👍
Again an excellent video
Thanks! 👍👍
Fantastic, informative always! Thank you so much 🙏🏼
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, that little spoke shave I mentioned earlier would be great for that type of scribe; also for backing off.
Cheers Gary. Yeah, I still done own one though! 😂👍👍
Great series there and a few little tips that I’ll use on my next installation.
Only thing I’m not a fan of is using jigsaw upside down so I always use downcut blades.
Thanks for the tips Peter, going to look at your other videos now.
Thanks Steve; re the upside down jigsaw - as I say, use whatever works for you, but a regular blade in an upside down jigsaw 1/keeps the shoe off the workpiece 2/ keeps the cut line clear and the blade clearly visible, and 3/ pulls the workpiece into the jigsaw, instead of pushing it away. Works for me 👍
Peter one question - how do you determine the initial width of the scribe piece - I am confused as to why you used an offset block ? Thanks so much !
Hi Douglas, I'm with you, I didn't get this either, despite Peter's excellent video! Did you get an answer?
Michael, unfortunately never did get an answer - I am guessing you would use the offset blocks if you didn't have the U-scribe jigs to get the scribing piece flush as he shows @@michaellloyd5024
It doesn't matter, whatever size it is, it needs to be wider then gap + with of carcus. Offset block is to make correct measure.
Love your videos, watched many and have learned a lot. Last year I had the pleasure of working alongside two amazing millwork guys on a job and their scribes were awe-inspiring. A couple of tricks I learnt:
- Use a jigsaw at a roughly 10% backcut and leave the line on
- Finish the scribe up to the line with a small palm belt sander such as the Porter Cable 371K
I have not had the time (or courage) to try these techniques yet, but will be doing so soon.
Yes, a back bevel is standard practice, but it needs a coping foot, or a jigsaw base that can be angled, and many don’t. 👍👍
Good video, enjoyed this mini series., How about a part 4 showing how to correctly fit a cabinet end panel? Keeping the peice flush at the front but scribed into the wall at the back? Many thanks
Rarely use end panels tbh, though I’ve covered the process in a few videos previously. And thanks! 👍👍
Good job, mate.👌🏽
Cheers for sharing. 👍🏽
Cheers Bill! 👍👍
Peter. What was the flat clamp you used on to keep you material upright when planing and rasping?
hi, when you were scribing using infinity method with U-scribe jig, you could use same width off cut as you board and that should give you same scribe line which would be faster than finding out a lowest point. finding out lowest point would be hard on the wall with shallow dips, or am I wrong?
One of the ceilings in our 'new' house has about a 100mm drop in the centre, which I didn't notice until I was replacing the light. After some further investigation, it turned out what they had done when they 'renewed' the ceiling was just screw some batons through the original plaster into the joist, then put up some 3mm hardboard and artex over that! Leaving all the original plaster to just fall off and gather on the top of the hardboard!
Another fine quality piece of refurbishment, lol! 😂🤷♂️😱👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh, trust me that was the good part of the refurbishment! They moved the loft hatch so it was directly above the bath, and they had it going the same direction as the bath, so the only way to get up was to put ladders in the bath, which obviously ended up with them putting a hole in the bath! (did I mention the word bath?)
There were 3 ceilings in the landing, there was the original plaster ceiling, then a ceiling below that from about 30 years ago, and then another ceiling below that from about 10 years ago! So the landing ceiling height was a full 800mm lower than the original!
And when we were tearing out the walls in the extension, we found out that there was an extra 300mm of room behind the wall, because instead of just boxing in the soil pipe, they just built a wall in front of it!
This house would have been a perfect case for Cowboy Builders!
Oh wow! That sounds like a nightmare!
@@10MinuteWorkshop We got it at auction for a very good price, so we knew what we were getting ourselves in to.
Plus, I don't really mind how long it takes to fix it up, and I would have gutted the place anyway because the layout was awful. It was advertised as a 3 bedroom, but the two rear bedrooms were only wide enough to fit a single bed and maybe one of your infamous side tables!
Brilliant vid again mate.
I’d leave The thin section to last, then you minimise the amount of handling for as long as possible, and would reduce the chance of snapping. Speaking from experience 😂
Cheers Marc - and yeah, good point! 😂👍
Ótimo vídeo!
Can you explain about how to cut to size the infill prior to marking the scribe on the second method please I’m a bit unsure on that bit. Thank you great videos.
I show this around the 5 minute mark; use your block of scrap against the underside of the carcass and measure off this to the lowest point. 👍
Peter, I’ve seen a tool for scribing where it’s essentially a compass, with one end a pencil, and the other a small bearing. Keeping the compass vertical gives a perfect line. Surely with a block, you can’t reproduce tight curves?
Thanks Derek. I cover all of this in Part 1 of this series, and I take a look at all the options for scribing to e.g. brickwork or stone walls. This video (Part 3 of the series) is specifically about scribing to a ceiling, where the range of the scribe is extreme - and hopefully where there won't be too many tight curves! As always, and as I say in the round-up at the end of the video, many, many ways to skin this particular cat 👍
4:30 on a Friday caulk it and go home HAHAHAHAH
Sorry if this seems obvious but why dont you use 'cut on the down stroke' jig saw blades bosch T101BR or T101AO.
I scribe all my joints and skirtings etc with those. Just a thought and I really like the videos
Whatever works for you Gary, but I don't like them because a regular blade in an upside down jigsaw 1/keeps the shoe off the workpiece 2/ keeps the cut line clear and the blade clearly visible, and 3/ pulls the workpiece into the jigsaw, instead of pushing it away. And thanks! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I'll second what Peter says , it's a much better way to do it than using down cut blades. I've used jigsaws upside down for so long it seems odd if I ever use them right way up 😂😂
Excellent..
Thanks! 👍
Thanks Peter. Enjoy your weekend...rr Normandy
Thanks Richard! 👍
Good series Peter, thank you.
I have a question for you (or anyone else who knows the answer), how do you scribe in a cabinet when you can't get to the front edge, for example when you have a cabinet to fit in an alcove. On one side you usually have the cabinet extending beyond the chimney breast by 200mm, or whatever, then you need to put a fillet between the wall and the edge of the cabinet but you can't reference the front edge. Any ideas? I've bodged this for ages by taking a series of measurements and transferring them to the fillet but this is slow and not super accurate.
I'm hoping there is an obvious answer to this but I can't think of it!
Two ways; either scribe the infill before you fit the cabinet, then cut the infill width back to fit - this is a straight line so easy to tweak with e.g. a tracksaw. The other way is to do the cabinets differently, and have an end panel that reaches to the front face of the door i.e. the door effectively becomes an inset, not an overlay. It's much easier then to scribe the end panel to the face of the chimney-breast, than to do a fiddly little infill. That's how I did it, anyway. HTH P 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter,
Excellent advice, I'll try the pre-scribe style on my next wardrobe. Like you, I think I'm probably coming to the end of my wardrobe days anyway, too old and feeble to continue (not like you I'm sure!).
"I've done a lot worse too" hahaha. This info and practical demos are really good, thanks. Cheers, David.
Thanks David. 👍👍
On your wardrobe fit video, I saw a different method. Perhaps because the ceiling infill panel was quite deep, you had pegs of wood with pieces of correx? attached up to the ceiling. Is that correct?
I have a couple of wardrobes that will need a top infill panel about 200mm wide.
Yes - basically a template; it works well when you have a deep infill - the top of those wardrobes were ~200mm to the ceiling 👍👍.
do you have a link to that vid?
What about scribing for a shelf in a three-sided 2’x2’ alcove? I’m having a go with a smaller piece of wood and a ticking (sp?) stick, but not got it right yet!
Yeah, I’d template that, every time. Video #252.
Peter Millard nice! Thanks Mr Millard.
Instead of applying the back bevel later, cant you set the jigsaw at an angle?
Not all jigsaws do that - at least not without a separate base - so I'd rather show people this way 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop got ya 👍
had a go today against a wavy ceiling...made a right mess , a bad day at the office. have another crack on Friday. How where you when you first did one?
Terrible! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop glad go hear it in a way. there is hope after all for anyone trying to do it.
Went back to it yesterday used a piece of wood and result was OK definitely a pass. All these gizmos on the market, what a waste of money,, tried a couple and at least they are as good as a piece of scrap wood at best not better. So save your money guys and girls.
Cheers.
"That isn't the best job I've ever done" Thankfully, god created caulking! When I re-did my kitchen, there were some gaps between the molding and the ceiling. After a little white caulking you would be hard pressed to find them.
👍👍
a construction worker once said to me. "Caulk and paint will make it what it ain't."
What compasses do you recommend for scribing?
Simple helix brand school compasses work well; you can get some nice old ones on eBay. 👍
What belt sander is that Peter?
It was a little 65mm DeWalt - don’t have it any more, handy little thing though. There was a US version under the Porter Cable brand too. 👍
Sorry I'm struggling to get my head around this. If the widest part from the ceiling to the top of the cabinet, for arguments sake is 3", wouldn't you first rip the filler strip to it's widest length? being 3"? You sort of gloss over that bit when cutting down to size. Sorry I'm an idiot. :/
I'm an idiot too... what you say makes sense; did you get an answer?
Hi Peter, where can I purchase lost head screws, the small type
Hi John. Links in the video description, as always.
Tongue-tite screws - amzn.to/2ouKU5I (US: amzn.to/2pGBVk3)
Lost-tite screws - amzn.to/2pGnUFD (US: amzn.to/2pVKqa6)
Peter Millard Thank you for your reply, but the smallest screws I can find on Amazon is 32mm long, I’m using for scribing material around 18 mm so they may be too long.
They’re designed with flooring in mind, so they don’t come in very short lengths, but you can get 25mm lost tite from many places eg toolstation - no affiliate link for them I’m afraid, but it’s an easy search 👍
Peter Millard Thanks again so helpful, love your videos, always watch them straight after you release them.
You seem to exude the same tiredness in this video that one would normally feel when up to this part of an install.
Well Peter your scribing is great ,but from the looks of that dry wall/plastering job ,well i dont think i ll be calling you ....lol
😂😂👍👍 No, I don’t think I’ll be getting many requests Syd - and that suits me fine! 😂
Learn to undercut with the jigsaw it will save a lot of time, that said the carvex isn’t a good tool for undercutting
Well to be clear, I know how to undercut with the jigsaw - it’s not something I’d recommend to relative beginners though, who this series is aimed at. Also some jiggy’s (mine’s one) don’t do a bevel cut without a separate base. 👍
Sub-Scribed 😂
Could you not set that bevel by setting the angle on the jigsaw, at least to get the most out.
No bevel on my (and many other) jigsaws without a separate base. Also didn’t want to get into that in a beginner series - hard enough to follow a line with a jiggy without complicating things with a bevel. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I see where you're coming from, thanks
I've learned a fair bit from your videos( but not this one I'm afraid!) so please allow me to return the kindness..
Your scribes are going wrong when you hit very irregular areas,in this case the crest in the middle of the cabinet due to the fundamental limitations of the frankly crude technique you are using.
Your accuracy would be significantly improved if the offcut was cut as a V-point at the 'top' and kept in the same orientation throughout i.e. no rotating/rolling over the bumps.
Or,to put it another way-You should be using dividers! I have used the same dividers for 20 years and they were very old when I got them for £2 at a second hand tool fair.They are incredibly useful and accurately report distances/spaces in seconds without pencils(a la Vernier or callipers) as well as being the ultimate scribing tool.
In the same way that a handplane cannot get into low points or accurately report the surface,neither can a block of scrap unless the bearing surface is infinitely short in length ,i.e. dividers.
I can also clearly see that you are rotating the scribing block over the curves and thus reporting information to the wrong location on the infill.
Placing a finger between the 2 surfaces,running your fingernail against the surface you are fitting to and using a proper rectangular(NOT oval a la Chinese cr@p) carpenter's penci,square to the scribe plane, would be much quicker and more accurate than this offcut method,which could only work on surfaces with minor and gradual deviations.
The offset can easily be adjusted by varying your grip//no. of fingers used.The fingernail won't mark the wall/ceiling,is low-friction and won't pick up splinters.
The hand must always remain in the same plane, as a scribe (until ur really good) can only be done in one direction at a time,so you have to move your body with the pencil i.e. the complete opposite of dodgy UK plasterers who seem to think they can produce a 'flat' surface(e.g. for skirting boards) without moving their feet or bending their knees :-)
1 more thing- why don't you simply angle the bed of the jigsaw??? That should get you most if not all of the undercut that you may need in 1 simple process.
Really enjoy your videos.
Keep 'em coming Peter and thanks again.
Thanks Steve. I cover the use of dividers/pair of compasses for very irregular areas in Part 1. Also the many and varied primary coloured scribing aids. A lot of jigsaws don't have an angled base - or have an angled base as an accessory - and tbh scribing to a line with a jigsaw is fiddly enough - for the beginners who this video series is aimed at - that I didn't want to complicate it further by suggesting a bevel cut at the same time. 👍
i had to make a wall in the shape of the cross section on a bus. hands down, chippy steve....not only was yours the virtually free option (the cost of a pencil), but it was the most accurate. i knew reading the comments would provide insight. thank you for your input.
Out of interest why don't you bevel the foot of the jig saw to give most of the back set when cutting the scribe?
Not all jigsaws can do that - at least, not without an additional base - and cutting to a scribeline can be fiddly enough for relative newcomers without the extra complication. 👍
Thats the worst drywall job Ive ever seen on a cieling. LOL Im sure the builder would have the drywall redone before installing a cabinet on that. But I get your point for demonstration purposes. Thank you for the informative videos!
Actually, it’s far from the worst ceiling that I’ve had to scribe onto. Ceilings like this are very common in older properties here in the UK, and it’s never ‘drywall’ usually lath & plaster. If you’re not familiar with it see video #375 for an explanation and repair. 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks for the explanation. Here in the US only very old homes have the lathe and plaster. I have not worked in many of them. It’s a whole different animal I suppose! 😛
I thought you were going to back out the screw just a hair so the gap is gone on the top and replaces on the cabinet (the doors will hide that). No? I'm just an idiot so if I'm wrong let me know!