Wanted to shout out a big thanks to you for posting this video. Got a 2003 Mazda Protegé LX, 2.0 with 207,000 miles in it. Bought it new so it's 12 years old. Never cleaned the throttle body before. A few months ago it started idling roughly and after reading a few forums, I decided to clean the throttle body only. Instead of spraying CRC Throttle Body cleaner directly on to the throttle body, I sprayed a clean rag with it and cleaned the throttle body until no more residue showed on the rag. It was very dirty. Put everything back and started the car. Idle shoot up and then regulated back to 12 years ago when new. So, so far, so good. Thank you very much for doing such a great job with this video!
My dad and I had a repair shop and he did the same exact procedure that you did. Putting bolts back in their holes and using anti-seize on all nuts and bolts. He did the same when tightening down fasteners on flanges going back and forth a little at a time until reaching factory torque specs. He was a master tech and you did the same exact procedures. Great job grass hopper!!!!!
Every 2 years or 30,000 miles I do the exact same thing on my Ford Contour SE 2.5L V6. The EGR passages *behind* the throttle plate always get clogged with *hard* black carbon. I'll also clean the IAC, MAF filament, clean & re-oil the K&N & change the PCV. All of this takes me an afternoon, but it's worth it for an additional 2 yrs of CEL-free driving. I've also found that the DPFE sensor lasts about 2 years and produces EGR-type DTC codes, when, in fact, the EGR is fine n dandy. My Contour is now 20yrs old, no CEL, no rust, no driveability issues, 165,000 miles and gets 25mpg. I can't kill this thing! It goes without saying (because other posters have said it) that THIS video, of yours, is quite excellent in both clarity and presentation. Subscribed!
I have a 2002 Crown Victoria LX Sport with 39,000 miles. It has the mechanical throttle body and up until i watched your video i had know idea thats how simple it is to remove the throttle cables. After learning this today i will be fully clean its throttle body then removing the negative battery terminal for 30 min then off to start is relearning. Thank you.
I have to say that, that was one of the better DIY videos that I've seen on UA-cam. It was very informative but not drawn out, and it showed the necessary components and parts used for the project. Strait to the point with only the necessary information. Good job.
I'm going to use a quote from Butch Cassiday and the Sundance Kid (slightly changing it) : "Who is this guy?" Meant as a sincere compliment. This is as clear, relaxed, nicely detailed an explanation of any procedure I've ever watched. ( I'm here because my son's Dodge Ram 1500 van may have a problem related to this system)
Great video. The camera angles were excellent. The camera was steady and in focus. I wish everyone did such a terrific job showing their work and clearly explaining each step.
Very informative. You've encouraged me to start doing some basic work on my car rather than paying a fortune to have parts needlessly replaced. Thanks!
Sounds like a very nice, understanding and respectable teacher. This was the most helpful for a first timer technically declined person like me who has an old 99 park ave Buick ultra supercharged with 230 k miles. So it's not worth spending money on pro shops but is such loyal and consistent performer that a guy like me had to learn how to take care of her during her last days before she dies.
I also agree with others! This is one of the best, if not the best "how to" videos I have ever seen. Clear in speaking, explaining, and demonstrating the process. I might could become a decent shade tree mechanic with more of these! Great Job!!
I was very impressed with your explanation of how to clean / service the throttle body. Very good job in my opinion. It is my opinion the people from the USA are more apt to do these kinds of things to their vehicles to ensure a much longer life as there is a lot more to owning a vehicle than to just change engine oil and filters. Thanks for sharing this :-)
Great video for D.I.Y er's. Especially the tip on putting bolts and screws back right after removing them for 1. to know where they go. 2. So you don't lose them. I've seen it dozens of times when the wrong screw was in the wrong slot, or even worse missing a screw. Wrong screw in wrong slot = threads are shot, now have to replace the whole thing. Be extra careful doing your own repairs on your vehicle, one small mistake can be deadly. A company I used to work for decided to replace the breaks on the company vehicles, on the ford ranger they didn't tighten the bolts, turned out to be the ranger I was driving. Thankfully when the disc fell off I was only going 2 mph, being stuck in traffic basically saved my life. So please triple check all your work, we all want to save on doing it ourselves but we also want to save our own lives. Much love and aloha everyone. 2 thumbs up to this video, very informative.
I thought that I was the only one who used anti-seize on all bolt and dielectric grease on all electrical connectors. The dielectric grease also makes disconnecting the connectors easier the next time if you spread a little more on the plastic parts that slide together. I also use oil in a pump can on the moving parts just like you. WD40 will simply not last. I even put the bolts in their place like you do to help in reassembly.(Gee, did I make this video and simply not remember?) Great video.
Yep..that's the problem I'm having! Great teaching video.. Now to get my husband to watch and repair . Thank you so much for being so clear and concise!!
Finally! An actual image of the engine side of the throttle body connection. lol Thank you KRK. I have suspected an issue since my ford does not like to run the first 2 minutes in the morning. After which, it runs great. Long story short, I bought it and assumed the previous owner had common vehicle knowledge. Discovered it was overfilled with oil. 7.8 quarts to be exact, excluding the oil filter. That also caused the 5 miles per gallon gas mileage it had. The PCV and the intake plenum the valve connects to were soaked in engine oil. Drained and replaced the oil, replaced the pcv and sort of got some of the oil out of the intake. Cleaned the IAV and the openings directly under the valve, but the starting issue still exists. Now I know for sure to remove the TB and get to cleaning. I just hope the intake plenum has a rubber gasket which is still in good shape. lol I know, but I'm allowed one wishful thought a day. lol
Martin, I feel the say way. Very clear, great video quality and lighting so it was easy to see everything he did, and it was very nicely explained step by step as he went along. Excellent!!
Thank you for the clear video. I had to watch without sound (and will review again later) and followed along perfectly. It's very helpful, especially being a woman and getting "less than stellar" assistance at the parts store, to be able to have this resource. A cheery thumbs up for sure! THANKS!
Very nice that you posted this - I can't wait to clean it on my Volvo. BUT - being a nurse and natural health enthusiast, I was quite disturbed to see you handling all of those lubricants and other chemicals with your bare hands! The skin is VERY absorbent and the toxic chemicals will go into your bloodstream - over time you could get quite sick. You sound like a REALLY NICE person - please take care of yourself and wear latex gloves or use cotton swabs! Thanks for the video!
takes only 20 minutes on a 2000 toyota avalon. its alot easier to clean than this van. pretty easy and can save you alot of cash. the video for toyotas is on youtube. only thanks to guys like this guy taking the time to show us how its done... Thank you 95z!
thanks for your very educational tutorial. it would be perfect if you would have included a "before and after" video clip showing how much the engine improves with such a thorough cleaning. thumbs up and keep up the good job.
Thank you soooooooo much for this in depth tutorial. Too often I have been forced into viewing some asshat's poor excuse for a "do-it-yourself" guide to saving money. With their grainy footage and missing steps, I found myself trying to save my mind. I guess I'm trying to say your video is awesome. You could post a vid on how to chew food and I would watch it. Thanks again.
Your explanations , film , comments and knowledge were are very clear and easy to understand. I should be well equipped now to tackle my 1998 GMC 1500 305 engine. In cool weather the truck wants to maintain a fast idle and pull ahead when placed in gear. It is a major problem now that the ice and snow have began to accumulate on roads here in Northern Ontario. I was going to inspect and clean the mass flow intake but after reviewing your clip I will take your advice and just clean the throttle area. Thanks for your help.
This was the first thing on the net I looked at since figuring out what the idle symptoms pointed to. This looked doable even though my car is a 2004 Jeep Liberty. Little differences with the IAC on the Liberty but this was an easy job after following this vid. I do not work on cars often. Erratic idle problems on startup gone. Wont drop below 1000 RPM. So stable its beautiful. Thank you.
Thanks man I did it with no problems, it was pretty dirty so the next day I wanted to go further and took off the whole throttle body. the ports to the EGR were completely blocked off, needed a screw driver to break through the carbon crap and a strong wire brush to clean all the gunk out, it was crazy.
Thank you for this detailed video. I have a Ford Explorer Sport 2001 that intermittently would not idle , and from this video I was inspired to take my Idle Control Valve off and clean it. Took all of just a few minutes to clean and reinstall. My Explorer idles perfectly now.. :)
+Phil Clayton It's great to see people are actually taking these videos and doing their own work. Saving money plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Well Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I not only saved about $100 in repairs (I did it for free).. And Yes the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself..
I never figure I saved money doing it myself. I worked for that money otherwise a mechanic would have worked for the money. The mechanic works hard for his money. I can't imagine anyone working on cars for free. Not putting you down...just" at a boys" for the many good mechanics and other trades people.
I use a mechanic for more complicated things like the ac. This repair was very easy for a driveway mechanic like myself. Plus I'm on a tight budget. Just thinking the author of this video for sharing his knowledge.
BEST by far - INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO I've ever seen yet !! If your in California, I could sure use you..!! Thanks for the thorough explanations.... I've been working on my 02 Jetta myself, partly for economic reasons, mostly, I found that I really enjoy working on cars. Who knew?
Excellent video, so clearly defined and precise and no stuttering ! My wish would be that more people like you could could facilitate helping people like us to realize that yes you can do it if you try ! God bless !
Very Good video instruction. Too many people assume just because information is on the internet, that the information is correct or valid. I have worked on cars for over 45 years and have over 85 credit hours in auto tech. Plus had built cars before attending tech school. Your information is very wll presented.
Fantastic, the narration is incredible. I wish all youtube DIY videos were so detailed and precise. I studied this post twice and feel I can tackle my dodge which keeps stalling at idle and reversing.
thanks for posting I have a 1995 vw polo here in uk i cleaned the flap on the throttle body but left the tickover motor as seen this video after i had done this I was scared of dropping screws bolts etc been unemployed i love watching n learning but I dnt find cars easy woodwork is lol thnaks for posting keep making vids i love watching n learning Ian in Lichfield UK
Awsome job. Great detail and good audio and video quality. A lot more substance and nuance than other utube videos covering similar topics. If an experienced person does not want/need the detail they can fast forward. It is better to have too much info than the opposite. Thanks!
Great video! Iuse Lockease graphite liquid on the throttle and cruise cables. They will get a graphite coating while not gathering dirt on the oil you used.
this video is very detailed and informative..it helps me from a lot of things when it comes to throttle body and iac..its gives me more than what i expect..thank you so much for this video..
Did all this while investigating a surging idle on my Mondeo. Turned out not to be the issue, - the PCV valve had failed open and collapsed a vacuum hose - but this was worth doing and costs only a tin of carb cleaner.
I always wet the gasket with a few drops of motor oil or a thin film of grease, helps hold in position and allow it to form to clamped parts and be able to remove without damaging the gasket. Agree with bolt and wiring lube.
Wow top video. Great how you had a solid explanation on everything and the camera angle and narration was prime. I wish every time I needed mechanical assistance it was this easy to follow..
I had bad idle on my 98 Suzuki Sport took the IAC off and cleaned it , stuck it back on and that helped for a while . Read and watched another video and took it off cleaned it again ?and that worked for a while. So what I saw in the video is not to oil it ,just clean it. Took it off cleaned it although by this time nothing unclean dribbled out , then I used bicycle chain oil and that seems to have cured it.
awesome vid btw :) Now i got another toy! A 1994 5.0 GT, which may need some cleaning, and this helped greatly! Got alot of rough idle, and dies at stop signs from time to time, when clutch is disengaged
Excellent work. Your sequence is understandable and your logic very clear. All mechanics should be so clear. Plus, your attention to detail is outstanding. Thank you.
Great job on the video....You were very thorough and it was a great step by step video. I didn't need this particular model, I have a 2001 Expedition with a 4.6L V8 but it was nice to see the cleaning of the throttle body. I have a P0401 and I think it's probably the intake manifold clogged, and would love to see you do a step by step of that procedure. I've not found a youtube of it yet. Again, great job.
GREAT VIDEO !!! THANKS ALOT I TRYED CLEANING MINE WITH OUT TAKING IT APART AND IT HELPED MY IDLE PROBLEM FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS .NOW I KNOW HOW TO DO IT PROPERLY . THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
great tutorial! Im gonna do it to my 00' F150 in the morning, but instead of leaving it bolted on, i'll go pick up the gasket and bolt lube and go the full monty, thanks.
Great video. I had the same problem. All I did to fix it was spray Gumout down the tube leading to it a few times and it went away all I had to do was reset the code.
Cleaning it and rebuilding it are two different things. They aren't serviceable in the respect that the electric motor inside them cannot be replaced seperate from the actual valve, but they are cleanable. Thanks.
Love watching other mechanics videos on how to do things and would say your attention to detail is very good. If I could be a critic on anything is the oil on the throttle and cruise control cables. In dusty environments the oil will catch dust and could lead to a sticking cables.
I have to say, that was some great video capturing and Awesome directions. A lot of great tips for ensuring you are doing the right thing at the right time. Great work, Thanks.
I suggest using a small piece of wood to tap the Throttle Body off just to be safe- you can even use hammer handle. Also, I learned in A&P school to use a hard piece of acrylic sharpened to scrape off gaskets to prevent scratches on the mating surfaces.
As many have stated, Excellent video, tight shots of where everything is located, clear concise instructions, great tips & tricks, honest difficulty assessment- (the stuff others leave out). One thing, just asking- why didn’t you use gasket shellac/compound? (I always use “Indian Head” shellac- I was taught it helped keep a tighter seal- could be old school thinking though) I’m sure you’re sick of hearing it but wear gloves; I do but usually end up with dirty hands too, however they are not all mucked up with grease & grime, just dirty. Talk about foolish, in my 20’s I use to keep a 5 quart pail of fresh motor oil and used it as hand cleaner (too cheap to buy gojo)- it works great at removing all the dirt and grease, however I’m sure it wasn’t so smart…. But I’m still alive.
This was very helpful, thanks. I just bought an 08 altima about 3 weeks ago, it has started to hesitate when i press the gas to accelerate. It seems like there is just a delay or disconnect with "knowing" it is supposed to go...it displayed a code that indicated the throttle position sensor, which if i understand correctly is not something i can purchase seperately with this vehicle so I will need to replace the whole thing. This video will help greatly
I learned allot about fuel injection throttle bodies from this video. I was hoping he would of ran the engine before and after the cleaning to be able to notice the big difference.
In the case of a little dirt buildup, it isn't that detrimental but it does affect airflow which is important at the throttle body. It does not cause a vaccum leak. What can happen is the small ports inside the throttle body can become plugged or partially plugged which will hinder the performance of the IAC valve negatively affecting the idle of the car. Thanks.
Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IATS) or if you prefer to call it the Air Charge Temp sensor (ACTS) will not hurt them, if you use the Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner or even tuner spray from radio shack as it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.... Ours Gets cleaned every time we clean and re-oil the air cleaner @ every 6 - 10,000 miles. Been doing it for years this way. Good vid by the way.... . Merrie-Merrie
Excellent production and good demonstration. I love that you use di-electric (silicone) grease and anti-seize. My opinion is that the MAF sensor should be cleaned using ONLY MAF spray. My experience is that even though it looks ok, a little oil will affect performance. Proper cleaning will drop your idle speed slightly and raise your MPG slightly. Those slight changes will pay for the cost of the necessary sprays just in fuel savings.
Only thing I would recommend here would be a plastic scraper, I would avoid any metallic scraper to avoid any problems like you mentioned regarding air leaks.
If you use an aftermarket air filter that requires oil to be sprayed on it, some of that oil may migrate further down the intake to the maf sensor as someone else mentioned. In that case, it may be necessary every few oil changes to clean the maf. I would suggest being very careful and spray it then let it air dry. I work on several trucks with 400,000 miles on stock, uncleaned maf sensors. Clean them at your own risk. Thanks for the kind words.
Fantastic video. No blabbering. No b.s. Just easy step-by-step instructions in a clear and concise manner.
Wanted to shout out a big thanks to you for posting this video. Got a 2003 Mazda Protegé LX, 2.0 with 207,000 miles in it. Bought it new so it's 12 years old. Never cleaned the throttle body before. A few months ago it started idling roughly and after reading a few forums, I decided to clean the throttle body only. Instead of spraying CRC Throttle Body cleaner directly on to the throttle body, I sprayed a clean rag with it and cleaned the throttle body until no more residue showed on the rag. It was very dirty. Put everything back and started the car. Idle shoot up and then regulated back to 12 years ago when new. So, so far, so good. Thank you very much for doing such a great job with this video!
VERY GOOD VIEDIO. TIME HAS LEFT ME IN THE DUST. IM 72 WORKED FOR G.M. 20 YEARS BACK IN THE EARLY 70S. 427 454 FUN STUFF. GOOD LUCK YOUNG BUCKS. 🇺🇸
Right on, I'm 82.
I took the throttle body off, cleaned it up, put it back on and so far so good it's been two days and no stalls. THANKs AGAIN for the video!
My dad and I had a repair shop and he did the same exact procedure that you did. Putting bolts back in their holes and using anti-seize on all nuts and bolts. He did the same when tightening down fasteners on flanges going back and forth a little at a time until reaching factory torque specs. He was a master tech and you did the same exact procedures. Great job grass hopper!!!!!
Every 2 years or 30,000 miles I do the exact same thing on my Ford Contour SE 2.5L V6. The EGR passages *behind* the throttle plate always get clogged with *hard* black carbon. I'll also clean the IAC, MAF filament, clean & re-oil the K&N & change the PCV. All of this takes me an afternoon, but it's worth it for an additional 2 yrs of CEL-free driving. I've also found that the DPFE sensor lasts about 2 years and produces EGR-type DTC codes, when, in fact, the EGR is fine n dandy. My Contour is now 20yrs old, no CEL, no rust, no driveability issues, 165,000 miles and gets 25mpg. I can't kill this thing! It goes without saying (because other posters have said it) that THIS video, of yours, is quite excellent in both clarity and presentation. Subscribed!
The best teacher/doer ever.🙏
Crystal clear. No un-necessary blathering .
Well done !
One of the BEST DIY videos I have EVER seen.........Well shot, understandable, helpful and practical instruction for the DIY'er.....
I have a 2002 Crown Victoria LX Sport with 39,000 miles. It has the mechanical throttle body and up until i watched your video i had know idea thats how simple it is to remove the throttle cables. After learning this today i will be fully clean its throttle body then removing the negative battery terminal for 30 min then off to start is relearning. Thank you.
I have to say that, that was one of the better DIY videos that I've seen on UA-cam. It was very informative but not drawn out, and it showed the necessary components and parts used for the project. Strait to the point with only the necessary information. Good job.
I don't own a ford but the video was very well done and concise....Excellent job.
I'm going to use a quote from Butch Cassiday and the Sundance Kid (slightly changing it) : "Who is this guy?"
Meant as a sincere compliment. This is as clear, relaxed, nicely detailed an explanation of any procedure I've ever watched. ( I'm here because my son's Dodge Ram 1500 van may have a problem related to this system)
Great video. The camera angles were excellent. The camera was steady and in focus. I wish everyone did such a terrific job showing their work and clearly explaining each step.
Very informative. You've encouraged me to start doing some basic work on my car rather than paying a fortune to have parts needlessly replaced. Thanks!
Sounds like a very nice, understanding and respectable teacher. This was the most helpful for a first timer technically declined person like me who has an old 99 park ave Buick ultra supercharged with 230 k miles. So it's not worth spending money on pro shops but is such loyal and consistent performer that a guy like me had to learn how to take care of her during her last days before she dies.
I also agree with others! This is one of the best, if not the best "how to" videos I have ever seen. Clear in speaking, explaining, and demonstrating the process. I might could become a decent shade tree mechanic with more of these! Great Job!!
I was very impressed with your explanation of how to clean / service the throttle body. Very good job in my opinion.
It is my opinion the people from the USA are more apt to do these kinds of things to their vehicles to ensure a much longer life as there is a lot more to owning a vehicle than to just change engine oil and filters.
Thanks for sharing this :-)
Great video for D.I.Y er's. Especially the tip on putting bolts and screws back right after removing them for 1. to know where they go. 2. So you don't lose them. I've seen it dozens of times when the wrong screw was in the wrong slot, or even worse missing a screw. Wrong screw in wrong slot = threads are shot, now have to replace the whole thing. Be extra careful doing your own repairs on your vehicle, one small mistake can be deadly. A company I used to work for decided to replace the breaks on the company vehicles, on the ford ranger they didn't tighten the bolts, turned out to be the ranger I was driving. Thankfully when the disc fell off I was only going 2 mph, being stuck in traffic basically saved my life. So please triple check all your work, we all want to save on doing it ourselves but we also want to save our own lives. Much love and aloha everyone. 2 thumbs up to this video, very informative.
I thought that I was the only one who used anti-seize on all bolt and dielectric grease on all electrical connectors. The dielectric grease also makes disconnecting the connectors easier the next time if you spread a little more on the plastic parts that slide together. I also use oil in a pump can on the moving parts just like you. WD40 will simply not last. I even put the bolts in their place like you do to help in reassembly.(Gee, did I make this video and simply not remember?) Great video.
Man i appreciate you taking the time to do this video. Worked great my van is not idling rough or stalling out!!! 230k miles... Thanks a million
Yep..that's the problem I'm having! Great teaching video.. Now to get my husband to watch and repair . Thank you so much for being so clear and concise!!
Finally! An actual image of the engine side of the throttle body connection. lol Thank you KRK.
I have suspected an issue since my ford does not like to run the first 2 minutes in the morning.
After which, it runs great. Long story short, I bought it and assumed the previous owner had common vehicle knowledge.
Discovered it was overfilled with oil. 7.8 quarts to be exact, excluding the oil filter.
That also caused the 5 miles per gallon gas mileage it had.
The PCV and the intake plenum the valve connects to were soaked in engine oil.
Drained and replaced the oil, replaced the pcv and sort of got some of the oil out of the intake.
Cleaned the IAV and the openings directly under the valve, but the starting issue still exists.
Now I know for sure to remove the TB and get to cleaning. I just hope the intake plenum has a rubber gasket which is still in good shape. lol
I know, but I'm allowed one wishful thought a day. lol
Martin, I feel the say way. Very clear, great video quality and lighting so it was easy to see everything he did, and it was very nicely explained step by step as he went along. Excellent!!
Thank you for the clear video. I had to watch without sound (and will review again later) and followed along perfectly. It's very helpful, especially being a woman and getting "less than stellar" assistance at the parts store, to be able to have this resource. A cheery thumbs up for sure! THANKS!
That was amazing. The anti seize and dialectic grease are over the top and I would never have expected that. Bravo
Extremely well done video. You do very nice work with attention to detail. Only negative comment is that you did not show cleaning of the IAC.
Very nice that you posted this - I can't wait to clean it on my Volvo. BUT - being a nurse and natural health enthusiast, I was quite disturbed to see you handling all of those lubricants and other chemicals with your bare hands! The skin is VERY absorbent and the toxic chemicals will go into your bloodstream - over time you could get quite sick. You sound like a REALLY NICE person - please take care of yourself and wear latex gloves or use cotton swabs! Thanks for the video!
takes only 20 minutes on a 2000 toyota avalon. its alot easier to clean than this van. pretty easy and can save you alot of cash. the video for toyotas is on youtube. only thanks to guys like this guy taking the time to show us how its done... Thank you 95z!
thanks for your very educational tutorial. it would be perfect if you would have included a "before and after" video clip showing how much the engine improves with such a thorough cleaning. thumbs up and keep up the good job.
Thank you soooooooo much for this in depth tutorial. Too often I have been forced into viewing some asshat's poor excuse for a "do-it-yourself" guide to saving money. With their grainy footage and missing steps, I found myself trying to save my mind. I guess I'm trying to say your video is awesome. You could post a vid on how to chew food and I would watch it. Thanks again.
You have a wonderful way of explaining things that could be very confusing to most of us! Thank you you for a great video!!
Very well done. Step by step. Helpful tips. If it's got 400k don't touch it. Well said, well presented my good man.👌
I like the way details explained with out excess talking. Clean talk is nice job. :)
I'm sure he meant loosen the remaining gasket not eat . Great job ! I'm gonna be doing the same on my Caddy . Once again thank you .
Well done Lad. Excellent use of camera, sound quality and your enunciation all excellent. My best compliment----I learned.
Your explanations , film , comments and knowledge were are very clear and easy to understand. I should be well equipped now to tackle my 1998 GMC 1500 305 engine. In cool weather the truck wants to maintain a fast idle and pull ahead when placed in gear. It is a major problem now that the ice and snow have began to accumulate on roads here in Northern Ontario. I was going to inspect and clean the mass flow intake but after reviewing your clip I will take your advice and just clean the throttle area. Thanks for your help.
This was the first thing on the net I looked at since figuring out what the idle symptoms pointed to. This looked doable even though my car is a 2004 Jeep Liberty. Little differences with the IAC on the Liberty but this was an easy job after following this vid. I do not work on cars often. Erratic idle problems on startup gone. Wont drop below 1000 RPM. So stable its beautiful. Thank you.
Thanks man I did it with no problems, it was pretty dirty so the next day I wanted to go further and took off the whole throttle body. the ports to the EGR were completely blocked off, needed a screw driver to break through the carbon crap and a strong wire brush to clean all the gunk out, it was crazy.
Very thorough and clear instructions, from the start to the end of the video. I'll give it five stars.
Thank you for this detailed video. I have a Ford Explorer Sport 2001 that intermittently would not idle , and from this video I was inspired to take my Idle Control Valve off and clean it. Took all of just a few minutes to clean and reinstall.
My Explorer idles perfectly now.. :)
+Phil Clayton It's great to see people are actually taking these videos and doing their own work. Saving money plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Well Thank you again for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I not only saved about $100 in repairs (I did it for free).. And Yes the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself..
I never figure I saved money doing it myself. I worked for that money otherwise a mechanic would have worked for the money. The mechanic works hard for his money. I can't imagine anyone working on cars for free. Not putting you down...just" at a boys" for the many good mechanics and other trades people.
I use a mechanic for more complicated things like the ac. This repair was very easy for a driveway mechanic like myself. Plus I'm on a tight budget. Just thinking the author of this video for sharing his knowledge.
BEST by far - INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO I've ever seen yet !! If your in California, I could sure use you..!! Thanks for the thorough explanations.... I've been working on my 02 Jetta myself, partly for economic reasons, mostly, I found that I really enjoy working on cars. Who knew?
Excellent video, so clearly defined and precise and no stuttering ! My wish would be that more people like you could could facilitate helping people like us to realize that yes you can do it if you try ! God bless !
check my vids out. God Bless!
Wow, spam! Desperate for views much?
Ditto!! What kind of camera did you use?
G B what makes your car jerking when you are driving
Very Good video instruction. Too many people assume just because information is on the internet, that the information is correct or valid. I have worked on cars for over 45 years and have over 85 credit hours in auto tech. Plus had built cars before attending tech school. Your information is very wll presented.
85 hours ain't shit haha you must think you somebody huh old man
bunghole231 is that why you call yourself bunghole
Great video. You are a clear, knowledgable and patient teacher.
Thanks for the how to video.
Easy step by step for beginners.
Some Comments left here have merit but your overall video is A+.
Thanks
Fantastic, the narration is incredible. I wish all youtube DIY videos were so detailed and precise. I studied this post twice and feel I can tackle my dodge which keeps stalling at idle and reversing.
thanks for posting I have a 1995 vw polo here in uk i cleaned the flap on the throttle body but left the tickover motor as seen this video after i had done this I was scared of dropping screws bolts etc been unemployed i love watching n learning but I dnt find cars easy woodwork is lol thnaks for posting keep making vids i love watching n learning Ian in Lichfield UK
This is how all how to videos should be. good job man. great explanation and good angles so we can actually see what ur doing.
Now, the fellow in this is an absolute gentleman. Well done!
I really enjoyed your video. I own a Saab, but the videos put out are not as clear and easy to follow. Thanks.
Awsome job. Great detail and good audio and video quality. A lot more substance and nuance than other utube videos covering similar topics. If an experienced person does not want/need the detail they can fast forward. It is better to have too much info than the opposite.
Thanks!
Great video! Iuse Lockease graphite liquid on the throttle and cruise cables. They will get a graphite coating while not gathering dirt on the oil you used.
This is a great video, and everything is in a clear view. Also really like the helpful terms and definitions in the description.
This really helped me.I like learning stuff about my car before I pay for service. Nice job.
this video is very detailed and informative..it helps me from a lot of things when it comes to throttle body and iac..its gives me more than what i expect..thank you so much for this video..
Very good video. Nice explaination!!! And props for showing and explaining the much needed oil, anti-seize, and contact grease.
Did all this while investigating a surging idle on my Mondeo. Turned out not to be the issue, - the PCV valve had failed open and collapsed a vacuum hose - but this was worth doing and costs only a tin of carb cleaner.
I always wet the gasket with a few drops of motor oil or a thin film of grease, helps hold in position and allow it to form to clamped parts and be able to remove without damaging the gasket.
Agree with bolt and wiring lube.
You should have your own show. Great job with the camera and explaining steps. Keep posting Brother!
1 of best, most informative and professional video's I have seen. Thanks a million. you know your stuff
Wow top video. Great how you had a solid explanation on everything and the camera angle and narration was prime. I wish every time I needed mechanical assistance it was this easy to follow..
This by far the BEST video I have watched when it comes to Throttle cleaning instructions
I had bad idle on my 98 Suzuki Sport took the IAC off and cleaned it , stuck it back on and that helped for a while . Read and watched another video and took it off cleaned it again ?and that worked for a while. So what I saw in the video is not to oil it ,just clean it. Took it off cleaned it although by this time nothing unclean dribbled out , then I used bicycle chain oil and that seems to have cured it.
awesome vid btw :) Now i got another toy! A 1994 5.0 GT, which may need some cleaning, and this helped greatly! Got alot of rough idle, and dies at stop signs from time to time, when clutch is disengaged
Excellent work. Your sequence is understandable and your logic very clear. All mechanics should be so clear. Plus, your attention to detail is outstanding. Thank you.
Great job on the video....You were very thorough and it was a great step by step video. I didn't need this particular model, I have a 2001 Expedition with a 4.6L V8 but it was nice to see the cleaning of the throttle body. I have a P0401 and I think it's probably the intake manifold clogged, and would love to see you do a step by step of that procedure. I've not found a youtube of it yet.
Again, great job.
GREAT VIDEO !!! THANKS ALOT I TRYED CLEANING MINE WITH OUT TAKING IT APART AND IT HELPED MY IDLE PROBLEM FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS .NOW I KNOW HOW TO DO IT PROPERLY . THANKS AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
phishertube is spot on. this is a very informative video with decent audio volume and clear articulation.
great tutorial! Im gonna do it to my 00' F150 in the morning, but instead of leaving it bolted on, i'll go pick up the gasket and bolt lube and go the full monty, thanks.
Great video. I had the same problem. All I did to fix it was spray Gumout down the tube leading to it a few times and it went away all I had to do was reset the code.
Thank you so much. I have this exact same car! 2000 E150 Ford 4.2L v6 and i'm definitely doing this, this saturday!
Very good, detailed tutorial i cleaned my Celica properly and runs/idles and even sounds cleaner. Thank you so much for the video.
Awesome video dude! I have a chevy but it looks a lot like the ford you repaired.
I'm so glad I watched it. your video and audio narration RULES!!!!
explained very well, good camera work, thank you .
your video is verry helpfull tanks man i been searching for weeks and no luck you just showed me how to fix my truck tanks bro great video
Cleaning it and rebuilding it are two different things. They aren't serviceable in the respect that the electric motor inside them cannot be replaced seperate from the actual valve, but they are cleanable. Thanks.
Love watching other mechanics videos on how to do things and would say your attention to detail is very good. If I could be a critic on anything is the oil on the throttle and cruise control cables. In dusty environments the oil will catch dust and could lead to a sticking cables.
My hat is off to you Sir, great video one of the best I have seen!!!
I've always wondered about using dielectric grease as you did on the connectors. Now I know I can. Thanks!
Excellent video!! Didn't see how to troubleshoot if that's the issue before starting the project.
Hey thanks I've fixed my radiator through this UA-cam video.
I have to say, that was some great video capturing and Awesome directions. A lot of great tips for ensuring you are doing the right thing at the right time. Great work, Thanks.
I suggest using a small piece of wood to tap the Throttle Body off just to be safe- you can even use hammer handle. Also, I learned in A&P school to use a hard piece of acrylic sharpened to scrape off gaskets to prevent scratches on the mating surfaces.
Nice video. Your hands and mine are identical. We’re hand twins. I’m dead serious. It’s like watching myself do the work. Kinda eerie
As many have stated, Excellent video, tight shots of where everything is located, clear concise instructions, great tips & tricks, honest difficulty assessment- (the stuff others leave out).
One thing, just asking- why didn’t you use gasket shellac/compound? (I always use “Indian Head” shellac- I was taught it helped keep a tighter seal- could be old school thinking though)
I’m sure you’re sick of hearing it but wear gloves; I do but usually end up with dirty hands too, however they are not all mucked up with grease & grime, just dirty.
Talk about foolish, in my 20’s I use to keep a 5 quart pail of fresh motor oil and used it as hand cleaner (too cheap to buy gojo)- it works great at removing all the dirt and grease, however I’m sure it wasn’t so smart…. But I’m still alive.
Well organized, good attention to detail, & thorough. Well done video. Thanks.
This was very helpful, thanks. I just bought an 08 altima about 3 weeks ago, it has started to hesitate when i press the gas to accelerate. It seems like there is just a delay or disconnect with "knowing" it is supposed to go...it displayed a code that indicated the throttle position sensor, which if i understand correctly is not something i can purchase seperately with this vehicle so I will need to replace the whole thing. This video will help greatly
I learned allot about fuel injection throttle bodies from this video.
I was hoping he would of ran the engine before and after the cleaning
to be able to notice the big difference.
What a detailed video. Simply amazing. Hope to see more for the same vehicle. Thanks a lot for posting your videos.
I agree, this is the best ever how to videos I've ever seen. Keep up the good work snd thank you.❤❤❤
Very thorough explanation, clear voice. Excellent job !!
In the case of a little dirt buildup, it isn't that detrimental but it does affect airflow which is important at the throttle body. It does not cause a vaccum leak. What can happen is the small ports inside the throttle body can become plugged or partially plugged which will hinder the performance of the IAC valve negatively affecting the idle of the car. Thanks.
Outstanding Tutorial video, one of the best I have ever seen, Congratulations
Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IATS) or if you prefer to call it the Air Charge Temp sensor (ACTS) will not hurt them, if you use the Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner or even tuner spray from radio shack as it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.... Ours Gets cleaned every time we clean and re-oil the air cleaner @ every 6 - 10,000 miles. Been doing it for years this way.
Good vid by the way....
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Merrie-Merrie
if you head the old gasket a little and then use a plastic scraper it works pretty good. just eliminates the risk.😊
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Excellent production and good demonstration. I love that you use di-electric (silicone) grease and anti-seize. My opinion is that the MAF sensor should be cleaned using ONLY MAF spray. My experience is that even though it looks ok, a little oil will affect performance. Proper cleaning will drop your idle speed slightly and raise your MPG slightly. Those slight changes will pay for the cost of the necessary sprays just in fuel savings.
Only thing I would recommend here would be a plastic scraper, I would avoid any metallic scraper to avoid any problems like you mentioned regarding air leaks.
If you use an aftermarket air filter that requires oil to be sprayed on it, some of that oil may migrate further down the intake to the maf sensor as someone else mentioned. In that case, it may be necessary every few oil changes to clean the maf. I would suggest being very careful and spray it then let it air dry. I work on several trucks with 400,000 miles on stock, uncleaned maf sensors. Clean them at your own risk. Thanks for the kind words.
Excellent and entertaining. Done in a professional, engaging manner. Thank you. Mike Gayda