Why the $200 Creality Ender 3 V3 SE is probably THE budget printer of 2023
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
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So - The Ender 3 V2 finally got an upgrade. It seems weird though, it works out of the box, and I didn't have to build it from parts. Times have changed a lot.
Printer was supplied by Creality at no cost.
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My jaw dropped when I heard the price. That's even less than what my E3V2 cost, with way more features, and looks more beginner friendly. If I didn't already have a decent printer (now, after countless upgrades and repairs) I'd be getting this one to start.
That price is astounding. Makes me really want to convince my college to dump the lulzbots we have.
Question, ive got a E3V2 still boxed (life got in the way and I already had a larger printer) that I planned to mod into an everyday work horse, until I could afford (& print abs) a Voron. I have the bl touch, springs, capricorn, metal extruder & lacks ready for the enclosure. But also was gonna get dual Z, flex plate and hopefully an all metal DD hotend (like the NG for ex). After modding yours and with things like the above at such a cheap price point, in your opinion do you even think its worth attempting it anymore?
@@DJWhitelow I really appreciate the amount of knowledge I was able to pick up from "building" and upgrading my own printer, and it made me appreciate all of the advancements they've made over the years. However, in my case I was definitely interested in 3D printing as an actual hobby. If you're only someone who wants to print and go, without getting into the hobby too deeply, I'd probably recommend something even simpler like a Prusa. These Creality machines are getting better and better, but you'll need to end up learning about more things than you would with more expensive and user-friendly printers. So it's a trade-off. But now that I've done it once, lots of the parts that mystified me in the beginning now make more sense, so it was rewarding in that way.
Frankly they have to compete on price even more than before, because you can now get an absolute tank of a coreXY machine for $500-600 without a V-slot wheel in sight.
I would be happy to pay $20 more for a model with an all metal hotend and maybe another iprovement filament runout sensor maybe?
This has all the upgrades people were wanting and doing on their original ender 3s and ender 3 clones. At the same price! I'm so happy for newcomers to printing getting it so good. And I love the power switch on the side. Maybe one day we'll finally get it on the front
The wavy bits on the hotend is part of the heatsink, the wavy bits increase the surface area that the fan can blow cool air over to make sure the cold side of the hotend doesnt become too warm. If the cold size becomes tpp warm it causes a phenomenom known as heat creep, basically the plastics heats up sooner than it should and it becomes thick and sticky, this can cause jams.
Was about to say the same: more heatsink in a smaller space.
I'm gonna wait for the Ender 3 Neo Max SE V4 S2 Smart
yeah, better wait for "pro" version.
May want to wait, I hear the Ender3 v4 Se SuperNuclear will have an ionizing array to melt the filament right at the point of contact.
The new x axis stepper position makes assembling the printer much easier as it allows you to rest it sideways. Also makes the machine look sleeker and neater. Good job from creality!
This has definitely become my main printer since I got it. The acceleration and max print speeds are far far higher than my SV06, Ender 3 V2 and my old Wanhao. Managed to print a 44 minute Benchy with only one flaw out of the box
It's a nice easy printer 👌
Same here. I hated 3d printing. It was such a hassle. I wanted to make stuff. Not have "keeping the printer going" as a hobby.
This has changed me a little bit and I'm very happy. A 3d printer that just works. Amazing.
3:43@@LostInTech3D The wavey bits increase surface area for the fan (or rather the air) to cool it.
As far as speed is concerned. A SV06 running klipper, which can be installed easily is much faster with superior quality due to resonance compensation.
@@Mu1eZ666 I've had quite a lot of problems with my SV06 in general to be fair. Grub screw in the extruder wasn't tightened properly, worked it's way loose and sheared into the metal housing and jammed. Grub screw on one of the lead z axis lead screws was loose, and stopped rotating (and I accidentally tightened it back in too high for a while). The extruder decided it was going to home itself after a print had finished once as well, ripped the connectors off the PCB, couldn't buy just a new board so I had to buy a full extruder replacement. The bed is too warped to level fully on one corner. Stringing has always been an issue, can't disable z-hop though because it always catches on the print during travel moves otherwise... etc etc.
The wavy bits increase the individual fin surface area to facilitate better convective heat transfer.
I was a tad surprised he made the comment. Honestly, thought it was him being silly…
This.
The pattern with the fan, provides better surface area/heat dissapation = cooler heat break when at higher Temps longer with lower fan.
A big side note, any modification in the future or higher temps in an enclosure. This hotend shouldn't have high heat conduction past the break.
I think I still want a $500 high ten Ender 5 that’s enclosed. I don’t care if it’s fast, just that it’s reliable and capable of out of the box cf nylon printing
I bought this the other day before looking into reviews, just wanted to get into it all. I am glad it's meeting expectations. I love the two prints I have gotten done already, neat hobby
Cam i see the prints just a short vid or something i wanna see if i should get it
Defo bought my Ender 3 V2 at the wrong time, this got announced a month later and would've saved me some money upgrading mine to have BL-Touch and direct extrusion
0:14 got me good there with the vibration. i actually thought it was me who had a call 😂
Great review! I can tell Creality are trying to stay relevant in the budget printer market, this has a lot of features and impressive hardware for $200
Just got one of these bad boys for about $171. Thanks for the review and I can't wait to receive it.
Very nice indeed. And for the price, is a no-brainer. I still prefer my E3 V2 Neo since I just flashed Professional Firmware and has basically the same functions as this V3 SE aside from the strain gauge under the bed. But BL touch works pretty nice for bed mesh and trimming.
This one will be definitely one of Creality's best sellers.
The diagram you show at 0:13 in the video is very interesting. I'd love to see a video on the evolution of the Ender 3 series and the changes they made between them. There are so many.
'wavy bits' are just a way to pack more surface area into the same volume. more surface area heat sink = better heat dissipation
Good review. First released models STILL had the bed plate clipping. I removed the screws and changed they to flat top instead of button. Problem Solved.
I expect that this + a sonic pad will be an absolute BEAST as a budget speed demon.
3:34 those wavy bits are cooling fins. Other than straight fins like the standard mk8 hotend. This has wavy fins to increase the surface area. Thus increases the cooling efficiency.
awsome imma get one hopefully !
i seen on another video, those screws that crash against the bed carriage is an assembly mistake, some other people got flat head screws that are much lower than those
That makes sense 🤣
I think they are simply diodes which we used be add additional board for every motor to remove reverse current from the motors. Nice thought.
Now I can finally throw my Ender 3 V1 out the effing window like I always threatened to do! 🤪🤪🤪
Great to see Creality is stepping up their game, and also great to see that automatic bed leveling and auto Z offset in a $200 printer, hopefully that will mean they will become standard features in this price range. Also noticed it's direct drive, maybe the days of bowden are now limited? Not that bowden on a bed slinger ever made a lot of sense anyways, since the weight of the bed is more limiting than the weight of the head. Also maybe it's time for them to drop the base Ender 3 model since the Ender 3 V3 SE is the same price.
Bowden makes sense when you don't have double Z axis: that's not the case to have extra weight and Z-hops with just one bar. Also bowdens work better now with flow control algorithms, you can run with 2-3mm retraction.
the wavy bits are heat sinks, which cool down parts that shouldn’t heat up and keep the heat from going beyond the extruder tip.
the strain gauge for automatic bed leveling under the bed can be used /installed also in other 3d printers?
Hm. You can have the Sovol SV06 for around 209$ these days. The +10$ are a better deal with full metal hotend, pei bed, liniar rails and belt tensioners.
Super easy asemply, printing in 10 min.
Also the display is compatible with Klipper.
PTFE-Tube is no showstopper for high temps imo, you still can drop an all metal heatbreak in there, shorten the ptfe a bit and voilà! The long distance from extruder to hotend is a bit of a problem for printing flexibles though.
Exactly! I'm planning a short to test flexibles...
Will the all metal heatbreak work with a cr-10v3? Where do I buy one and how much do I shorten the ptfe tube?
Ferrite chokes like those on the stepper driver outputs are unusual, but are recommended for minimum electromagnetic emissions in TMC spec sheets. Didn't earlier models of ender 3 have some issues with interference messing with the screen? That's probably why creality care enough about it to add those 20c of parts
yeah - maybe it's that. I was just surprised to see so many
About the extruder. What mods to print high temp filaments?
The wavy bits just increase the surface area of the fins while fitting in a smaller volume.
3:34 Are the wavy bits not intended to dissipate heat, much like a CPU cooler.
The joke in the beginning was good 😂
I bought it and this is not a scam. It works so well.
I've been using MriscoC firmware (September 2023) on my V2 with Octopi. Do you recommend upgrading the firmware on the V3? Or sticking with the stock firmware?
Stock firmware very much seems to have taken notes from mriscoc...so it's actually pretty good
I can't wait until the spare parts are available to upgrade existing Ender 3's
The “wavy bits” increase surface area and aid cooling.
Apparently im not the only one who has trouble setting the extruder back on that ptfe tubing 😂.
On the board there are 2 open 3 pin JST plugs side by side. One says LED not Neopixel🤔, does the other have a designation? Possibly for a laser like on previous machines?
Oh... probably.... doesn't mean this printer will support it though I guess
I'm yet to buy a 3D printer. I'll wait to see what Creatlity brings, i don't have much expectations so i'll just wait until reviews come around.
You tell it how it is, without actually having to say how it is 😂❤
Finally a good sub $200 ender
Hi, has anybody connected successfully filament sensor in this printer?
6:00 Still an issue that Creality hasn't fixed yet, got mine about a week ago and had this problem, after uncrewing it once and putting it back in it became stuck, the screw spins around but doesnt come off. For a regular consumer that's just... awful. Thankfully I don't mind it too much as I can fix it but still worth noting that they havent fixed it after it came out,
And unfortunately there's more:
-SD card slot after a while gets loose (?? dunno how but it's a sporratic issue for me) and doesn't read the TF card included with the printer (or any SD card)
-The bed leveling out of the box was ATROCIOUS ( had a deviation from the lowest point to the highest point of almost 4mm out of the box)
-The 1.0.6 Firmware update is buggy if you follow their advise (the fix requires renaming the .bin file to "Firmware.bin" putting the .bin AND the TJC folder on the same card that you insert into the display and have it update it that way, after it's done, put the SD card on the mainboard SD card reader and turn the printer on, after that it should be in german (maybe because I'm EU that's the default but idk) and you should be on the 1.0.6 without any of the screen visual bugs
-if you by a magnetic bed surface for it, get a 235mm x 235mm, I got a 220mm x 220mm and it's too small even though that's the advertised bed surface
I feel like that's about all the issues I've come across, tho even after all of that I'm happy with it, def gonna mod it to the extreme to make it the best possible printer for it's money
great video love your vids i got one 2 weeks ago and mine has a bent bed and i manged to get hold off support friday and they are sending a replament
mine is that bad it will not auto leval
What are your thoughts on this vs the Neptune 3 Pro? I'm tempted for this but the reported Customer Service at Creality seems to be very lacking when compared to Elegoo
Neptune are up to the 4 now, which is klipper based, and still waiting for me to review it, but it's a good printer. It does however lack the completely automated leveling. In all other respects...very similar.
@@LostInTech3D They're up to the 4 but I've seen some "troubles" on various forums regarding the quality of a few parts. The 4 is also very loud by comparison of what I've seen from it and I can't seem to find it on Amazon (would much rather purchase through Amazon than their website tbh).
Thanks for the reply!
what is the no se v3 again?
Which option is better ender v3 se for 242 CAD or bambulab a1 mini for 389 CAD?
Why would they go with 4 bed mounting points instead of 3? I mean if you can't tram it and 3 points define a plane, wouldn't 4 points potentially warp the bad?
I still use my ender3 from 2018
The diagram is neat, but should show the CR series before the Ender. The CR-10 was the printer to blew up Creality. I realize the Ender has sold more and now completely overshadowed the CR series, but the Ender is the the big break for Creality.
The PTFE tube inside the extruder can be changed with a capricorn? I need to print in ABS
I wouldn't advise capricorn for ABS. You also need some kind of enclosure ideally. I imagine there is a metal heat break that fits it...but I would take a look at the KE version coming out that I think has the metal heat break already.
@@LostInTech3D Thank you for your quick answer. I have an ender 3 neo pretty much stock with the capricorn tube and i have no problem printing ABS also without enclosure. Tomorrow will arrive my new v3 se and i was wondering if the extruder tube could be changed because otherwise it will never print ABS.
Anyway thank you for your great videos 🖖🖖
I really should have put my V2 away instead of trying to fix my issues and do upgrades and I should have bought this instead. It has everything that I want for a fraction of the price and more. Only thing lacking is mriscoc firmware.
I'd be highly surprised if this doesn't end up with custom firmware
@@LostInTech3D Yeah, honestly I'm tempted to sell my V2 to a friend that wants to try 3D printing and take my loses and buy this one. I said yesterday that I could probably afford a new printer for all the money I've spend on this one and today it turns out to be true. Although I might also just wait and pool my money for a prusa since I value reliability and repeatability the most about printing. I don't care about speed much... Then again my luck with printers has been pretty bad so far
Creality loves making their products obsolete
@@LostInTech3D the custom firmware is promounced "Klipper"
Just think of all the tinkering memories, it’s about the journey, not the destination..
can you do any upgrades to this ie the hot end?
It's half sprite so yeah upgrades will absolutely be on the table
0:12 CR-10 mini!
is this printer easy to use for someone who never had a 3d printer before nor the experience? is it entry level?
about as easy as it gets
I'd love to know more about its real speed... not the advertised one. I mean... how fast can you gow hile still maintaining an appropriate quality?
It..depends, that's kinda subjective. But real world speeds of around 80-100 should be okay.
@0:10 My CR10s-Pro now feels even _more_ left out. 😥 😄
Nice cactus, i tired to do the moon Cactus but failed
Is this recommended over the Sovol SV06 for beginners?
I would have to say that the tech has leaped a step further with auto-z-calibration so this would be easier for a beginner than the sv06, yes.
Can ender v3 se use abs filament ?
Have u tried it
1 yes
2 no
You might want to fashion an enclosure around it
Ender 3 V2. With del axis. New bed. Cr touch and a million mods.
Now sitting in the corner of my office being ignored while the SE just does what it's supposed to. HAPPY DAYS.
prolly looks nice tho
literallyyyy! I don't know if it's worth getting a new bed and CR Touch or just getting a new printer at this point...
Just get the new printer. You will thank me.
With the piece of ptfe going to the hot end, surely it would be easy enough the replace it with a metal one?
Or a piece of Capricorn
I don't recommend assuming capricorn is any safer than normal PTFE. They haven't done peer reviewed studies on it AFAIK.
@@LostInTech3DChep did a video a while back where he replaced the last 30mm of ptfe with Capricorn and then placed a bush on top to tighten down with the top nut
I have it on all my Enders and works great, checked regularly and no burning at the hot end
just take a file to the head of that screw a few times and should fix that right up
The waves slightly increase surface area
What highend features does it not have?
Input shaping is one that comes to mind.
All I want to know is how to upgrade it to print PETG. (Tube right into the hotens sucks).
it will print PETG as is, just use a decent brand like overture and print at 230C. All good.
@@LostInTech3D with respect, a decent brand of petg shouldn't be printed at 230. You have already basically given a compromise by printing at a lower temperature. Experience of my Ender 3V2 tells me that tube won't last long..
So.... what's the upgrade for the hotend here to allow higher temps?
Also, not throwing shade on you. I have 3 printers, (E3v2 crazy modified, a QQ-S Pro that looks like a cyborg with all the mods, and an FLSUN V400), and I'm interested in buying this E3V2SE based on your video!!
You guys must change the plate. The plate is too bad for this printer. Otherwise, I've just been using it for a month, and I love it already. I ordered a Cobra 2 recently, and I will compare them as long as possible.
Crazy good printer for the price. Wish i could trade my ender 3 and ender 3 pro for this.
And now we have the Ender 3 V3 KE!? I can't even tell the difference
KE is linear rails on X and a metal heatbreak :)
0:13 you missed the cr-10 mini (which i have)
Added to my diagram for next time 😁
Did it come unassembled? If so is it hard to put together?
just a few...4 I think? screws to the base to put the gantry on. 5 minutes, no more.
@@LostInTech3D oh not bad!
jajaja the phone call
5:46 - Who is "Steve" and where is the user interface he designed??
So many Enders. When will it end :D
neverenders
"He's got this sticky out bit here" "with these wavy bits"
What do you mean you're not an engineer? You talk just like the ones I know!!! ;-)
I would appreciate if someone tells me how it goes with the ender3v3se, I just bought it with my savings and I read several comments from amazon and other pages where they say it is a bad printer and I am scared of having made a bad purchase
nope, it is actually decent. You will be happy with it.
you are going to love it! Very good first printer.
Damn. I wanted to upgrade my e3 pro to sprite extruder + dual Z and silent board, BUT It's cheaper to get a v3 se (or spend a bit more fore a KE )
Yep. And a better overall experience.
I Just purchased a ender 3 pro on Amazon for 220. Am I misunderstanding something, the ender 3 v3 SE is also 220. Is there any advantage of having the ender 3 pro over the V3 SE?
I mean, I'd be looking at whether I could return it, but it's up to you. The V3 SE is hugely better.
I can. It has 30 days thru Amazon, Iv had it 2 days. Thank you.
This or Sovol SV06 is the question ❓
Bed is fine. I have this bed on several printers. After 10 prints it sticks to the perfect point. Don't bother with the pei
I have difficulty getting my prints off my V3 SE, not had any problems getting it to stick
Yeah the issue with these buildtak beds is convenient removal. A sharp blade helps but PEI is 👌
@@LostInTech3D I have a sheet of G10 fibreglass on my Ender 3 V2, I love that, cools down and the print removes itself from the bed. Also the print times on the v3 SE are far better than I can get on my other printers
I still don't believe the g10 hype 😂🦜
@@LostInTech3D Well if I can find a sheet of it with a magnetic backing some day I'd certainly want to try it on this machine :)
I think you should have emphasised that it is now a direct drive printer, that has huge flow rate and is 3x faster. just sayin.
This is going to be so confusing if they actually do bring out the "Ender-3 V3" after the SE version already exists. What do they claim SE stands for?
They didn't 🤣
After the release of the SE, they introduced the 3v3 KE version as well, so I really have no doubt that the 3V3 version will be released as well. 😅
I shall be launching my qqs pro out the window when this one lands ...
Nathan builds robots, is that you? 🤣
@LostInTech3D no bud ... i have been not so patiently trying to sort my qqs pro for nearly a year now... ive given up on it and ordered one of these ...
How will this work with a glass bed? I swear to them with all my ASA parts
Should work fine...or as fine as glass ever works
You'll get more ringing and lower speeds, yet if you print slow already...
can it handle TPU?
Spectacularly well. See ua-cam.com/users/shorts_usQ4Bu_oDw?feature=share
wtf are the subtitles at 5:00 LOL
Aren't the 'wavy bits' just a stylized heat sink?
the price is amazing, but I reccomand the ke if you want more then minimum
It's not out yet but yeah
@@LostInTech3D if it's anything like the SE I got yes
Can I fit a glass bed onto this?
Name an ender printer you can't ...
@@donbot5000Ender 3 KE
I don't get why they don't spend 2$ more and put a bimetal heat breaker and a 300" (as in 315 for overshot) rated thermistor, that puny bowden tube is gonna burn even with PETg.
PTFE is better for PLA and TPU.
They likely want a clear line in the sand between the SE for beginners, the new V3 (coming this week) and the k1. A $200 machine that is idiot proof for beginners, a $300 machine for advanced users, and a $600 machine for for speed demons. The It would not be a surprise to see a lot of all other models evaporate. To clear up the line up.
@@testit1902 I'm afraid that after half a roll of PETG that PTFE may get burnt and ruing the beginner experience for some that keep it hot.
@@LostInTech3D Maybe but print half a roll of PETG at ~235c and that PTFE gets burned and it starts to underextrude and leak filament. At least that what's happening on the standard hotends.
@@eaman11 the machine is for beginners and built to be a pla work horse. I think it is that simple. I agree anyone that wants a mor versatile machine may be looking for the Neptune instead. This should really be recommended as pla for dummies. And it is GREAT for that.
Got one, had nothing but problems with it. Mainboard, touch probe, etc., all needed replacing out of the box. Buy a Elgaloo or Bambu. Save yourself some grief.
I will never buy a bed slinger again. I currently have 3 I'm trying to get rid of.
Just put mine together, this thing is so under priced it makes me think it was subsidized. If you're thinking, that's not possible, the world is more complex than you think.
Yeah it does happen quite often, but I dunno whether in this case it's just tight margins
*ENDER V3 KE ENTERED THE GAME*
indeed it did
I am not impressed that after all this time they still haven't put some kind of metal choke in their printer. Its basically the first upgrade I would make for mine. Still bang for the buck but that relegates it to PLA only which is a no go for anyone who wants to make serious functional parts for bikes, mechanical stuff etc that lasts.
heat break? They just announced the KE version with a metal heat break, I imagine I'll be reviewing it
@@LostInTech3D If and when you'll be reviewing that version, could you also look into the effect the all metal heat break has on printing TPU please? I have heard rumors that all metal heat breaks have more problems with TPU and am very much in doubt whether to look for a printer with or without this.
Poor Steve, he tries so hard.
I disagree with the price and 'starter printer' AND - a ptfe lined hotend being 'expected' - it is 2023, designs have changed so much - there is really no reason to make PTFE lined hotends now, they literally are more parts and more problems - just make all-metal hotends the standard already, and remove the "desire/need" to have end-user upgrade them.
I agree completely. I don't understand why PTFE lined is even a thing anymore. If you have to replace the nozzle or the PTFE tube, you need to get it perfect otherwise you'll get constant jams. It can also outgas at high temperatures, which isn't good for you and can be outright dangerous to some pets. I've never found an advantage of a PTFE lined hotend and switching to all metal has always been better.
I wish it had wireless capabilities
The KE does, check that one out
No Point in buying a non S1 or S1 pro Ender 3 anymore. The prices have dropped significant.
You forgot the lesser known Ender 4, which was a lot like the Ender 5, but slightly smaller. Came with a laser head, inductive sensor.
Print area: 220 x 220 x 300 mm
Max. bed temp: 100°C
Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
Max. nozzle temp: 260°C
Max. Z-axis resolution: -
Z-axis accuracy: 0,004 mm
X/Y-axis accuracy: 0,012 mm
Max. print speed: 200 mm/s
Max. travel speed: - Who knows?
It came out in 2018 very briefly. It wasn't very popular (which is surprising, it was a pretty decent and fast, for the time, cartesian printer).
Subtitles at 5:01 😂 That's for some really tiny viewers!