Great job brother! I can always count on a super thorough review that covers everything I could possibly want to know.... I'm glad you're happy with your GX. I'm still on the fence as I may wait another year to see if Shimano throws their hat in the ring and also to see if SRAM cleans up some of the rough edges on their design.
Thanks for sharing, great content and explanation. sharing a lot of technical info for users of this system. i've seen people replace the main bolt which mounts the derailleur to the frame and its supposed to eliminate a lot play when the system has worn.
I had the same issue and after working with it for a while and not getting past that strange alignment issue I ended up taking out a link on the chain and that fixed the problem completely.
I have the eagle gx on my stump jumper and the hanger must be perfect as my one was out on a new bike. Also the B tension also must be perfect and done with 20% sage in the stand . Let the air out of your shock and compress your rear swing arm with a strap. And also the xx1 eagle shifter has also a bearing for a smoother feel then the gx one. Also buy a durace road shift cable as it improves the shifting.
Love your videos man! Another EXCELLENT review and tips and hints with problems or "what-could" or "what-if" explained within your video. You're the MAN!
I was running a KMC X12 chain on my GX setup. The chain would drop when backpedaling on the 50T & 42T sprocket. I recently put on a XX1 rainbow chain and all the previous issues went away. The shifting is so silent and smooth, that at times I didn’t even know I shifted.
Say... Concerning that chain line @03:00... I recently upgraded my Bike from a 2x10 to a 2x11 but unbeknown to me the Di2 Front Derailleur I bought is incompatible with the Crankset because it not supporting the Boost spec standard the Crankset has ( +3mm ). I'm not exactly too familiar with what else the Boost spec standard defines other than providing a better chain line with the sprockets on the rear wheel. For the moment I'm keeping the FD shimmed to achieve near Boost spec required distance from the frame but at some point or another I'll also replace the Deore Crankset for either an XT, maybe even an XTR, one and when I do I plan to buy a Non Boost specced one that would allow me to remove the stack of shims from the FD. My train of thought is basically that if a 1x12 can cope with such an extreme chain line then a more forgiving 2x11 should easily be able to cope with a slightly less ideal chain line caused by using a Non Boost specced Crankset in combination with a Boost specced rear wheel hub?
The rear mech location needs a big design change. I would like to see it above the axle or at least 50% of it above the axle. These things are getting monsterous all dangling down by every stick, rock and root. Imagine this on a 26 in wheel? Almost scraping the gound. I would like to see frame and mech builders get something going. Its been a long time comming. Something smart, easy and durable. 2017 rear derailure disgn is a low hanging fruit! lol Great channel
The red adjustment tool was being held wrong, that tool needs to be 'upright', which was making it appear only a mm off. Tilt the red derailleur hanger alignment tool from the 10' o'clock position you were holding it to the right (more of a 12 o'clock position.
Hello. I was amazed on how you could backpedal with no problems on the chain jumping from the largest sprocket to the middle of the cassette. I have only used it twice... how do you accomplish this perfect backpedaling?
I have been to 3 different bike shops already and all say they have fixed the problem, but they haven’t... it has a boost axle and have no idea what you are talking about the chainline there haha... I have an Epic Expert 2018
I bought the new KCNC 9-52 cassette from R2 Bike and the chain falls in the last 3 big cogs when doing backpedal. I put on a new chain and he keeps doing it. Crank at the front is a 32t boost 3mm offset. My bike is a Specialized Epic Expert 2018 1x12 full Eagle XX1 and had no issues with the Eagle 10-50. It seems as the chain looks crossed. Somebody told me to use a 6mm offset chainring other told me to use a 28t instead of a 32t. Also I don't know why the last 3 cogs skipped the chain on torque when the chain is new
The sync issues could be the outcome of the derailleur hanger which is maybe not perfectly aligned. Eagle drivetrains are very sensitive in such a case. With a derailleur hanger alignment gauge like the Park Tool DAG 2.2 you can check if the derailleur hanger is misaligned. I checked my 2017 Trek Fuel EX derailleur hanger (same like yours: 301805) and it was misaligned right out of the box. But before I'll try to bend it until it's straight I'll mount the GX Eagle drivetrain to see how it performs.
Another nice video. Ever since I had a Chevy for a year instead of my usual Toyota/Nissan, I've learnt that American engineering is not as good as Japanese engineering; not surprised then that SRAM has been marketed and hyped beyond it's true level of quality. Shimano is engineered to higher standards and where I ride, anyone with SRAM has problems and those with Shimano have none.
Do you know if the GX cranks are the same Spindle length for the non boost, boost and super boost? Or is the spindle length different for each rear spacing? Thanks
The out of synch issue is due to their quality production I bet you cassette wobbles quite a lot! I had the same problem and it even reproducable on the trail. I bought another one, luckily it doesn't wobble as much and this issue is gone.
That extreme chainline made me go back to 2x11. Climbing for more than an hour in the Alps..., it just irritated me and I'm sure you lose some watts by it. I think that's the only real downside of a 1x drivetrain. Or should I just ignore the chainline? I'm in doubt :-)
@@LoveMTB Yes!! How's the gx been? Just ordered a new bike with gx. Brutal honesty is fine. Most of the reason I went gx is because it's easily upgraded to x01 as parts wear out.. stuck with the new XT 4 piston for brakes cause of ease of maintenance and reliability... very curious why the sxylence rear hub hasn't been released with xtr as that's a huge selling point for a lot of ppl
Do you find that using the oval ring produces a bit of grinding in the front when the chain is on the granny ring in the back? I assume it has to do with the extreme chain line coupled with the fact the circumference of the chain ring changes as it rotates. I have run gx eagle on a few bikes for a while now and don’t remember ever experiencing a grind in the front when the chain is on the granny ring while using a round chainring up front. Thanks again for the videos.
seems like the same issues with the GX derailleur first gen. Loose pivot joints, play, durability....This is why I chose my trance 2 over the trance advanced. I'll take shimano over sram any day, but that's just me.
1.22 - you are using the B-gap adjustment tool wrong. All the outline markings need to match the teeth on the big sprocket. Also if you are adjusting on a full-sus, make sure the rear suspension is in normal sag position. SickBiker has a good video on Sram Eagle set-up mistakes.
buenas tardes, tengo problemas con la transmisión, una ves regulada en el taller los cambios funciona perfectos, pero a la hora de salir a andar cuando subo los piñones va bien pero le cuesta bajar los piñones y otra cosa que hace, es que suele saltar la cadena en el piñon, no pasa a otros piñones sino que salta sobre el mismo, opciones para solucionar los problemas, muy bueno el video. saludos Gracias
LoveMTB I’ve been having these same issues with my GX eagle and will take a look at the B gap. Interesting you mentioned the back pedaling, when I’m on the 50t I can’t back pedal more than one half rotation without dropping chain. This has proven to be problematic during really technical ascents. Any thoughts on tuning to prevent dropping? Great vid!
Hey! I have read all posts but did not find anything that relates to my problem. I have a hardtail with GX Eagle with 1k miles on it. 10, 11 and 12 gears are very loud or noisy. Not so much when padeling forward but backwards its unbearable. It also looks like chain rubs to larger cog when backpaddeling. I tried to move H limit screw even more outwards but it does not help and only causes problems in middle range of gears. B-gap is at 14mm as stated in manual. What else shoud I look for? Chain is not worn out and is within limits (less than 0,8% worn). Rings looks ok as well. I believe system should not be worn out after 1k miles. Right?? Thanx!!
I have not experienced at all the problem you mentioned with the pinions 50 or 42. If it is true that the change to or from the pinion 42 is not as smooth as the rest. Have you tried with the B Tension screw?. My transmission is completely XX1 Eagle, and I love it. Chainring between 34 or 32 teeth.
LoveMTB I'm sorry, now I've noticed my mistake. I meant the screw that adjusts the upper limit. it could also be a problem with the length of the chain.
Thanks for the great install video. I spent the afternoon installing my new group - GX kit. I am struggling with the B adjustment and I think it has to do with the mounting on my bike - bike is a Rocky Mountain Pipeline 2017, 770MSL. I have the B adjustment fully in and I am seeing the derailleur/jock binding into the cassette when shift to the 50t side of the cassette range. Wondering if I missed something? Or any suggestions on what to look for.
My chain falls off backpeddling even on the 42, let alone the 50T Stock 2019 Trance Advanced 1. I don't know... I've had it into two different LBS's and they say its just normal and they cant seem to fix my gears to be smooth :(
I just installed x01 and I can't adjust the low set screw to the center of the biggest cog it just won't move the derailer far enough left any suggestions?
Great video. I have a technical question that no bike shop seems to be able to answer. I hope you can help. I have a 29 inch Cube LTD 2014 mountain bike fitted with slick tires that I want to dedicate exclusively to asphalt riding, and I wanted to have the 12X1 described in the video but with bigger gears. So the question is if I can use the Sram gx eagle groupset, but instead of the gx eagle crank and ring, install a Sram Rival 1 X-Sync 10-11 speed Compact GXP crankset with a 50 tooth chainring. This ring also has the narrow wide profile of the teeth, so I think it should work with the 12 speed chain. The set up would take a rather long chain to accommodate a potential 50/50 pairing, but assuming that there are no clearance issues with any part of the bike frame, is this feasible? Thanks!
That hasnt happened to mine yet... i was wondering if the oval chainring youre running causing that? my thought about shifting gears on stand is iffy... i always testing my shift change riding, btw I run eagle chainring also...no issues whatsoever.... I've put in about 250 miles thus far.
I've found the GX to be complete garbage. My first one snapped in half while pedaling...i got it replaced, and o my second ride, it's shifting horribly.
My bike shifts fine upside down but when riding it shifts terrible lol wtf... is that? Hanger is perfect, b screw is just right, indexing is spot on. I dont get it. When riding it hesitates badly shifting down the casset mostly in middle of the cassette. 4-6 th gears. System is 1.5 years old, chain is new, cable pull is super smooth when diconnected from the rear mech. This blowing my mind.
LoveMTB 1x10 x 11x 36 Saint m820 rear d Chain maybe has 5 hours on it. Nothing looks worn out. I have a pt dag-II hanger alligner. Hanger is perfect. Fk i think i just figured it out holy crap. My shifter cable flexes when the rear sus compresses. I bet thats it. Doesnt compress when indexing. Oh man that leads to a whole other problem of how to resolve.
LoveMTB Update, that was the problem. I re routed a new cable and housing under the bb which is default but it does work as expected. Not a preferfed location but whatever.
Great job brother! I can always count on a super thorough review that covers everything I could possibly want to know.... I'm glad you're happy with your GX. I'm still on the fence as I may wait another year to see if Shimano throws their hat in the ring and also to see if SRAM cleans up some of the rough edges on their design.
Thanks for sharing, great content and explanation. sharing a lot of technical info for users of this system. i've seen people replace the main bolt which mounts the derailleur to the frame and its supposed to eliminate a lot play when the system has worn.
I have not tried that, good suggestion.
Thank you! Was able to dial my shifting much cleaner with the oval ring. Thank you for the in depth detail!
I had the same issue and after working with it for a while and not getting past that strange alignment issue I ended up taking out a link on the chain and that fixed the problem completely.
Thanks for the shots with the ruler.
I have the eagle gx on my stump jumper and the hanger must be perfect as my one was out on a new bike. Also the B tension also must be perfect and done with 20% sage in the stand . Let the air out of your shock and compress your rear swing arm with a strap. And also the xx1 eagle shifter has also a bearing for a smoother feel then the gx one. Also buy a durace road shift cable as it improves the shifting.
Love your videos man! Another EXCELLENT review and tips and hints with problems or "what-could" or "what-if" explained within your video. You're the MAN!
I was running a KMC X12 chain on my GX setup. The chain would drop when backpedaling on the 50T & 42T sprocket.
I recently put on a XX1 rainbow chain and all the previous issues went away. The shifting is so silent and smooth, that at times I didn’t even know I shifted.
Say... Concerning that chain line @03:00...
I recently upgraded my Bike from a 2x10 to a 2x11 but unbeknown to me the Di2 Front Derailleur I bought is incompatible with the Crankset because it not supporting the Boost spec standard the Crankset has ( +3mm ). I'm not exactly too familiar with what else the Boost spec standard defines other than providing a better chain line with the sprockets on the rear wheel.
For the moment I'm keeping the FD shimmed to achieve near Boost spec required distance from the frame but at some point or another I'll also replace the Deore Crankset for either an XT, maybe even an XTR, one and when I do I plan to buy a Non Boost specced one that would allow me to remove the stack of shims from the FD.
My train of thought is basically that if a 1x12 can cope with such an extreme chain line then a more forgiving 2x11 should easily be able to cope with a slightly less ideal chain line caused by using a Non Boost specced Crankset in combination with a Boost specced rear wheel hub?
Excellent in-depth review. Much appreciated. Thanks!
The rear mech location needs a big design change. I would like to see it above the axle or at least 50% of it above the axle. These things are getting monsterous all dangling down by every stick, rock and root. Imagine this on a 26 in wheel? Almost scraping the gound. I would like to see frame and mech builders get something going. Its been a long time comming. Something smart, easy and durable. 2017 rear derailure disgn is a low hanging fruit! lol
Great channel
The red adjustment tool was being held wrong, that tool needs to be 'upright', which was making it appear only a mm off. Tilt the red derailleur hanger alignment tool from the 10' o'clock position you were holding it to the right (more of a 12 o'clock position.
Very nice info and the videos are very entertaining and they has good quality! Love the channel, continued doing this stuff!!!
Hello. I was amazed on how you could backpedal with no problems on the chain jumping from the largest sprocket to the middle of the cassette. I have only used it twice... how do you accomplish this perfect backpedaling?
Yes... I can't get mine to backpedal even one full cycle!
I have been to 3 different bike shops already and all say they have fixed the problem, but they haven’t... it has a boost axle and have no idea what you are talking about the chainline there haha... I have an Epic Expert 2018
I bought the new KCNC 9-52 cassette from R2 Bike and the chain falls in the last 3 big cogs when doing backpedal. I put on a new chain and he keeps doing it. Crank at the front is a 32t boost 3mm offset. My bike is a Specialized Epic Expert 2018 1x12 full Eagle XX1 and had no issues with the Eagle 10-50. It seems as the chain looks crossed. Somebody told me to use a 6mm offset chainring other told me to use a 28t instead of a 32t. Also I don't know why the last 3 cogs skipped the chain on torque when the chain is new
The sync issues could be the outcome of the derailleur hanger which is maybe not perfectly aligned. Eagle drivetrains are very sensitive in such a case. With a derailleur hanger alignment gauge like the Park Tool DAG 2.2 you can check if the derailleur hanger is misaligned.
I checked my 2017 Trek Fuel EX derailleur hanger (same like yours: 301805) and it was misaligned right out of the box. But before I'll try to bend it until it's straight I'll mount the GX Eagle drivetrain to see how it performs.
It happens to my X01 Eagle too, 42T cog.
just what I needed, thanks mate
Love LoveMTB videos!
How to remove the cage of the GX...I'm look for a video to that,tq
Another nice video. Ever since I had a Chevy for a year instead of my usual Toyota/Nissan, I've learnt that American engineering is not as good as Japanese engineering; not surprised then that SRAM has been marketed and hyped beyond it's true level of quality. Shimano is engineered to higher standards and where I ride, anyone with SRAM has problems and those with Shimano have none.
David Simons Eagle is engineered in Germany...
gibberish and nonsensical bollocks.
Do you know if the GX cranks are the same Spindle length for the non boost, boost and super boost? Or is the spindle length different for each rear spacing?
Thanks
Very thorough review
Shimano for life!
The out of synch issue is due to their quality production I bet you cassette wobbles quite a lot! I had the same problem and it even reproducable on the trail. I bought another one, luckily it doesn't wobble as much and this issue is gone.
Can I fit the GX into my foldie,
That extreme chainline made me go back to 2x11. Climbing for more than an hour in the Alps..., it just irritated me and I'm sure you lose some watts by it. I think that's the only real downside of a 1x drivetrain. Or should I just ignore the chainline? I'm in doubt :-)
Great info!! New XTR looks awesome but dam it's expensive!!🤙🤙
@@LoveMTB Yes!! How's the gx been? Just ordered a new bike with gx. Brutal honesty is fine. Most of the reason I went gx is because it's easily upgraded to x01 as parts wear out.. stuck with the new XT 4 piston for brakes cause of ease of maintenance and reliability... very curious why the sxylence rear hub hasn't been released with xtr as that's a huge selling point for a lot of ppl
Do you find that using the oval ring produces a bit of grinding in the front when the chain is on the granny ring in the back? I assume it has to do with the extreme chain line coupled with the fact the circumference of the chain ring changes as it rotates. I have run gx eagle on a few bikes for a while now and don’t remember ever experiencing a grind in the front when the chain is on the granny ring while using a round chainring up front. Thanks again for the videos.
I’m using a oneup 30T.
Can i use 11 speed crankset on 12 speed cassette?
seems like the same issues with the GX derailleur first gen. Loose pivot joints, play, durability....This is why I chose my trance 2 over the trance advanced. I'll take shimano over sram any day, but that's just me.
1.22 - you are using the B-gap adjustment tool wrong. All the outline markings need to match the teeth on the big sprocket. Also if you are adjusting on a full-sus, make sure the rear suspension is in normal sag position. SickBiker has a good video on Sram Eagle set-up mistakes.
@@LoveMTB Yeah I got really bored listening to you and it was a bad demonstration...
buenas tardes, tengo problemas con la transmisión, una ves regulada en el taller los cambios funciona perfectos, pero a la hora de salir a andar cuando subo los piñones va bien pero le cuesta bajar los piñones y otra cosa que hace, es que suele saltar la cadena en el piñon, no pasa a otros piñones sino que salta sobre el mismo, opciones para solucionar los problemas, muy bueno el video. saludos Gracias
Can you adjust the down lever on the gx?
Nice revue!
My gx ghost shifts but will not go into the 50 tooth.
shiet dude that was hella helpful
Great vid - can the chain turn either side or is it unidirectional as shimano 11speed
LoveMTB I’ve been having these same issues with my GX eagle and will take a look at the B gap. Interesting you mentioned the back pedaling, when I’m on the 50t I can’t back pedal more than one half rotation without dropping chain. This has proven to be problematic during really technical ascents. Any thoughts on tuning to prevent dropping? Great vid!
Hey! I have read all posts but did not find anything that relates to my problem. I have a hardtail with GX Eagle with 1k miles on it. 10, 11 and 12 gears are very loud or noisy. Not so much when padeling forward but backwards its unbearable. It also looks like chain rubs to larger cog when backpaddeling. I tried to move H limit screw even more outwards but it does not help and only causes problems in middle range of gears. B-gap is at 14mm as stated in manual. What else shoud I look for? Chain is not worn out and is within limits (less than 0,8% worn). Rings looks ok as well. I believe system should not be worn out after 1k miles. Right?? Thanx!!
Easier show than write :) Here is a video of loud drivetrain. Could be bent hanger??
ua-cam.com/video/PdbKPXRrpzc/v-deo.html
No matter how much i adjust the b-gap i always get some degree of out of sync on one cog or another.
I have not experienced at all the problem you mentioned with the pinions 50 or 42. If it is true that the change to or from the pinion 42 is not as smooth as the rest. Have you tried with the B Tension screw?. My transmission is completely XX1 Eagle, and I love it. Chainring between 34 or 32 teeth.
LoveMTB I'm sorry, now I've noticed my mistake. I meant the screw that adjusts the upper limit. it could also be a problem with the length of the chain.
Thanks for the great install video. I spent the afternoon installing my new group - GX kit. I am struggling with the B adjustment and I think it has to do with the mounting on my bike - bike is a Rocky Mountain Pipeline 2017, 770MSL. I have the B adjustment fully in and I am seeing the derailleur/jock binding into the cassette when shift to the 50t side of the cassette range. Wondering if I missed something? Or any suggestions on what to look for.
My chain falls off backpeddling even on the 42, let alone the 50T
Stock 2019 Trance Advanced 1. I don't know... I've had it into two different LBS's and they say its just normal and they cant seem to fix my gears to be smooth :(
LoveMTB yeah I’ve had it a while now and ridden maybe 400-500km
LoveMTB sure has. I just thought it was normal cause of the 12 speed being so wide
LoveMTB standard chain that came with the Trance Advanced 1. Will check when I’m home from work
I just installed x01 and I can't adjust the low set screw to the center of the biggest cog it just won't move the derailer far enough left any suggestions?
Great video. I have a technical question that no bike shop seems to be able to answer. I hope you can help. I have a 29 inch Cube LTD 2014 mountain bike fitted with slick tires that I want to dedicate exclusively to asphalt riding, and I wanted to have the 12X1 described in the video but with bigger gears. So the question is if I can use the Sram gx eagle groupset, but instead of the gx eagle crank and ring, install a Sram Rival 1 X-Sync 10-11 speed Compact GXP crankset with a 50 tooth chainring. This ring also has the narrow wide profile of the teeth, so I think it should work with the 12 speed chain. The set up would take a rather long chain to accommodate a potential 50/50 pairing, but assuming that there are no clearance issues with any part of the bike frame, is this feasible? Thanks!
What makes it better then your XT setup
Don't u find it quite craggy in cog 42 and 50 and also back pedalling?
Did you feel a notable difference between the x01 and gx shifters besides just the adjustability?
Just confirming the 11 speed front chain ring does not need to be replaced as the 12 speed chain will work fine? Thanks great video
@@LoveMTB Thank you for the advice!
Ignore the tool, adjust b screw in more and welcome to smooth shifts
Why does mine come off the big ring?
back pedal on 50t is dropping the chain. should i increase the gap with my b screw ? thanks in advanced.
thanks for the reply. this is on my new 2019 trek fuel ex 8. i took it back to the lbs yesterday afternoon and he fixed it with some adjustments.
I have a question, my gx eagle keeps tightening its cable tension and not going into 10+ gears, why?
It is stored so nobody can nudge it or bump it.
Me too ! Have you found the solution ? Thanks
Currently with a 1x10 sram group set should I spend 200$ for a 1x11 or should I spend 400$ for a gx groupset ?
ask and be honest with yourself ... do you need it or just want it ? I mean who doesn't want latest drivetrain but come on ....
is the dropper hanger for the sram and shimano the same?
is shimano xt more durable than sram gx? im planning on replacing my old group set and wondering if which of the two brands has less maintenance
how about the shift quality? is it like eagle?
would be good to see a review at around 5K.
nice one!!
Doesnt happen on mine... gears shift like butter.
That hasnt happened to mine yet... i was wondering if the oval chainring youre running causing that? my thought about shifting gears on stand is iffy... i always testing my shift change riding, btw I run eagle chainring also...no issues whatsoever.... I've put in about 250 miles thus far.
GX everything except for the crank, Truvativ Stylo Carbon.
Awesome tutorial, thank you.
First! hehe From Brazil
Спасибо тебе большое за расстояние в мм !!!
That was Hardwood Hills! You're a local!
2 chains!!
7 minute video and you never touched the limit screws...
I've found the GX to be complete garbage. My first one snapped in half while pedaling...i got it replaced, and o my second ride, it's shifting horribly.
LoveMTB love it no issues after 3 years of bashing. Getting SRAM on my next rig too.
My bike shifts fine upside down but when riding it shifts terrible lol wtf... is that?
Hanger is perfect, b screw is just right, indexing is spot on. I dont get it. When riding it hesitates badly shifting down the casset mostly in middle of the cassette. 4-6 th gears. System is 1.5 years old, chain is new, cable pull is super smooth when diconnected from the rear mech. This blowing my mind.
LoveMTB
1x10 x 11x 36
Saint m820 rear d
Chain maybe has 5 hours on it.
Nothing looks worn out.
I have a pt dag-II hanger alligner. Hanger is perfect.
Fk i think i just figured it out holy crap.
My shifter cable flexes when the rear sus compresses. I bet thats it.
Doesnt compress when indexing.
Oh man that leads to a whole other problem of how to resolve.
LoveMTB
Update, that was the problem. I re routed a new cable and housing under the bb which is default but it does work as expected. Not a preferfed location but whatever.
sounds like you are shifting while putting too much pressure on the chain.
Lakwlseo