There are commercial plastic welders that work similarly but usually can supply much more heat and are adjustable. But the thing is that the plastics being used, need to be of the same type. I guess you are using the CA glue to fill the crack, but as everyone knows, CA glue does not work with all plastics. It's not really good for filling cracks either. Works best on flat surfaces. The use of the zip tie is without a doubt, the wrong type plastic for this repair. If you mix thermoplastic types, it might kinda stick but not bonded. For this repair, the grindings you threw away were indeed the best filler material to use because you know it's the same type plastic. Grooving it is fine as is use foil tape as a backer. Use the grindings as the filler to melt back in. But you'll probably want to build up the repair a bit from the back side. In most plastic molded things, you can find flash or little sections or tabs that can be cut and used as donor material. These would be parts that aren't actually a working part of the plastic part. Often on the inside where they will not be missed. A few small pieces and the grindings should give you enough of the right fill material. If you know what type plastic it is, you can buy filler rod of that type for use in the commercial plastic welders. It will work with your soldering iron set up. Almost all plastic parts have a stamp that says what type plastic it is. You need to be within that family of plastic to get a good bond. But there can be variations within that family of plastics. Always best to use excess plastic from the original part. You also need to avoid getting it too hot as the plastic will start to breakdown. If the color starts to change, it's probably too hot. It will fuse but will likely fail in the same spot. There is a so called universal filler called fiber-flex. Think of it as a special hot melt plastic glue rather that a filler you fuse together. Use it to build up the back side of the part. It has little fibers in it to give it some added strength and it stick to most plastics, but don't try to fuse it with the parent material. It is frequently used as a go to repair plastic for automotive stuff and can help make a strong repair. The stuff isn't exactly cheap though and you'll end up buying way more than you need, however, you will probably find other repair uses. Combine this stuff with a piece of fiberglass or stainless screen mesh and you cab make a very solid repair that will take some load. You can find these plastic filler materials on Amazon. The idea that you can "fix everything" is wishful thinking. You can make a lot of plastic repairs that will be serviceable but getting them cosmetically perfect is another matter, without refinishing. My suggestion is to try plastic welding on something that you are OK with messing up, because there are some tricks that come with practice. The two key factors are use the right plastic as a filler and control your temperature.
Habe auch Erfahrungen mit Unterschiedlichen Kunstoffinstandsetzungen, 2K- Kleber, Dauerelastischer Spoiler Bef. Kleber, Verschweißen unterschiedlicher Sorten, zuerst hält alles, bei anschließenden Biege oder Festigkeits Versuch kommt die Wahrheit ans Licht. Ähnlich bei Wunderklebern vom Jahrmarkt. So einfach ist es nicht immer. Bleibt gesund gruß Dieter
Thanks for the info iv got a couple of plastic bits to fix was going to try this out I will take heed to what you said and use the plastic from what I'm fixing or scrap the idea and use some 2 in 1 epoxy 😆 depends on time lol cheers
Hi Prof, interesting info but remember the true beauty of any home repair is to gain success by using the common items around you within hand distance. (Buying-in or purchasing special items to achieve a particularly robust or superior fix can often destroy the magic of the joy of one’s own cleverness). 😊
Perfect Professor, i was just thinking about those different types of plastic, maybe the part to be repaired is probably ABS and zip tie are, most, nylon.
@@philtucker1224 I you are living off grid, isolated and have a zero expenses philosophy, I would agree. I'm not to that degree, but an engineer who does most everything himself. That "must be at hand" criteria does not apply to me. I'll spend a little to do something right as opposed to "half-assing" it. If I can make a repair completely serviceable, that's usually what I'm trying to achieve. I generally don't care too much about cosmetic appearance, but depending on what it is, I enjoy making the repair completely un-noticeable. I'm a professional and like any work I do to reflect that. Patching something up as part of a crisis management situation, is fine, but I'll go back and make the proper repair. I don't get hung up on some zero cost repair concept. If I can spend a few bucks to achieve full functionality, that's what I'm going to do. I'm not a big fan of "shoemakered" tools. But I do make a lot of my own stuff if I end with something better than what's available. You can use a brick as a hammer, but anyone who refused to buy a real hammer, would be an idiot in my book. I rarely throw something out as I'll usually find a good use for it. But I have a lot of space that I know many people don't have. I initially bought my commercial plastic welder to repair a bumper skin. It paid for itself compared to having a body shop do it. I've made hundreds of plastic repairs with it since. But I am a tool junkie to a point. A lot of times one repair job savings, can buy a new tool that makes it easier, as long as I have other uses for it to. I'm all for being clever and I have a good track record in that regard, but I wouldn't see any point in limiting what I can accomplish by holding myself to some "rule" like you describe. More power to you if that's your thing. But I see plenty of beauty in what I accomplish without some arbitrary, self imposed limitation. DYI for me is multipurpose. I can save money over having someone else do it and most often, I'll do it better than they would, albeit with a bit more time invested. I enjoy doing it and using and expanding my own skills. My general DYI approach regarding tools, has allowed me to put together a pretty impressing shop. I tend to take a long term view rather than a quickie half-assed fix approach.
That was awesome!!!! I’ve tried to melt plastic back together before, (didn’t work well), this method gives me the perfect know how now!!! Thank u so much!!! 😊
I haven’t read the comments yet so maybe someone else mentioned this but it has been my experience that the plastic used to reinforce the joint has to be compatible with the original and zip ties don’t always work. To that end I would have used the waste from your grinding step or cut enough from the piece somewhere where it wouldn’t be noticed or structurally necessary for my add on source. I’ve made staples to add into cracked pieces when cosmetics aren’t important for strength also. Very satisfying work. Masks recommended but I rarely fuss with such bothers. (🙄) Nice work on the soldering iron mod.
Never ever use super glue on abs it very weak! I would also suggest to drill a small (2mm) hole at the end of the crack to stop futher splitting and put a metal mesh inside the weld to extra strenghten the weld . And allways use the same plastic to fill the gap .Otherwise a nice tutorial . Thank you
This is the third video of yours I’ve watch since stumbling on your channel but won’t be my last. Just subscribed and looking forward to your new videos. Now back to watching your older videos.
Very clever way to save earth from poisoning the nature..The pollution is the most dangerous thing that we’ve heard so far..My Congratulations to you sir!👏👍
А цианоакрилат то тут на кой хрен сдался, если все это спокойно без него делается??? Более того, очччень токсичным будет дым при такой "склейке", когда им шов промазать.
Bonjour, votre tuto est formidable, c'est du très bon travail et ça a donné une bonne idée de réparation. De plus le fait d'avoir fait une panne pour ce travail, c'est très bien. Merci beaucoup😀😀😀😀❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
That was excellent. personally I would not spend time rubbing down or refinishing the inside of the repair that cannot be seen. Thank you for sharing 🙏
Nice job that's an awful lot of effort. Have you seen the hot staple gun? I like how you melt in that metal strip into the seam, but you still don't have a lot of cross structural strength I used the hot staple gun on a crack about 8 inches long on the top center of the hood of a John Deere x500 riding tractor. I didn't do any of the cosmetic work that you did on the inside but on the outside all you see on the outside is a scratch mark of the seam. I inserted a staple wave staple about every half inch or less and I did take a large chisel tip soldering iron and do a little plastic melting around the stainless steel staples to close and smooth out the plastic that gets squeezed out as the hot staple is pushed into the plastic. Once you get the Staples seated you can do a little bit of a twist of the gun handle which helps draw the seam tighter together. You should check it out search for hot staple gun plastic repair.
There is no guarantee of rigidity, and it will crack again with a slight deformation. There are many different types of polymer materials with different characteristics, and the bonding effect varies greatly depending on the material. I have done a lot of plastic bonding experiments, without the use of metal wire throughout, the repair is no longer beautiful, but also can not be used.
Если говорить про домашний ремонт подручными материалами, то ещё 50 лет назад в детстве проделывал всё это обыкновенным гвоздем или отвёрткой, нагретой на газовой плите. Не знал, что этого никто не знает. Интернета тогда не было. PS: клей тут лишний, пластик должен быть хорошо "перемешан" в месте соединения. Но, конечно, первоначальной прочности всё -равно не добиться. Годится для ненагруженных соединений.
Sorry, but these videos with no word explanation leave so much to be desired that I don't care to watch them anymore. The "thumbs-up" at the end is more for you than it is for one who is trying to learn the completeness of your demonstration.
This trick is decades old. It is only suitable for items which are not subjected to bending. The strength is not as original. It is only cosmetic make up. Harder the plastic better durability. To give tensile strength you can make a spiral stitch after making small holes on both borders. I have repaired several plastic buckets by this method which are still ok afer 5 years of use.
Have you not actually thought about this process? You should NOT be putting superglue in the join. When you weld in the filler material you want the new plastic to flow and blend with the base plastic rather than just stick on top of it, and super glue will be a barrier to this.
There are commercial plastic welders that work similarly but usually can supply much more heat and are adjustable. But the thing is that the plastics being used, need to be of the same type. I guess you are using the CA glue to fill the crack, but as everyone knows, CA glue does not work with all plastics. It's not really good for filling cracks either. Works best on flat surfaces.
The use of the zip tie is without a doubt, the wrong type plastic for this repair. If you mix thermoplastic types, it might kinda stick but not bonded. For this repair, the grindings you threw away were indeed the best filler material to use because you know it's the same type plastic. Grooving it is fine as is use foil tape as a backer. Use the grindings as the filler to melt back in. But you'll probably want to build up the repair a bit from the back side. In most plastic molded things, you can find flash or little sections or tabs that can be cut and used as donor material. These would be parts that aren't actually a working part of the plastic part. Often on the inside where they will not be missed. A few small pieces and the grindings should give you enough of the right fill material.
If you know what type plastic it is, you can buy filler rod of that type for use in the commercial plastic welders. It will work with your soldering iron set up. Almost all plastic parts have a stamp that says what type plastic it is. You need to be within that family of plastic to get a good bond. But there can be variations within that family of plastics. Always best to use excess plastic from the original part. You also need to avoid getting it too hot as the plastic will start to breakdown. If the color starts to change, it's probably too hot. It will fuse but will likely fail in the same spot.
There is a so called universal filler called fiber-flex. Think of it as a special hot melt plastic glue rather that a filler you fuse together. Use it to build up the back side of the part. It has little fibers in it to give it some added strength and it stick to most plastics, but don't try to fuse it with the parent material. It is frequently used as a go to repair plastic for automotive stuff and can help make a strong repair. The stuff isn't exactly cheap though and you'll end up buying way more than you need, however, you will probably find other repair uses. Combine this stuff with a piece of fiberglass or stainless screen mesh and you cab make a very solid repair that will take some load. You can find these plastic filler materials on Amazon.
The idea that you can "fix everything" is wishful thinking. You can make a lot of plastic repairs that will be serviceable but getting them cosmetically perfect is another matter, without refinishing. My suggestion is to try plastic welding on something that you are OK with messing up, because there are some tricks that come with practice. The two key factors are use the right plastic as a filler and control your temperature.
Habe auch Erfahrungen mit Unterschiedlichen Kunstoffinstandsetzungen, 2K- Kleber, Dauerelastischer Spoiler Bef. Kleber, Verschweißen unterschiedlicher Sorten, zuerst hält alles, bei anschließenden Biege oder Festigkeits Versuch kommt die Wahrheit ans Licht.
Ähnlich bei Wunderklebern vom Jahrmarkt.
So einfach ist es nicht immer.
Bleibt gesund gruß Dieter
Thanks for the info iv got a couple of plastic bits to fix was going to try this out I will take heed to what you said and use the plastic from what I'm fixing or scrap the idea and use some 2 in 1 epoxy 😆 depends on time lol cheers
Hi Prof, interesting info but remember the true beauty of any home repair is to gain success by using the common items around you within hand distance. (Buying-in or purchasing special items to achieve a particularly robust or superior fix can often destroy the magic of the joy of one’s own cleverness). 😊
Perfect Professor, i was just thinking about those different types of plastic, maybe the part to be repaired is probably ABS and zip tie are, most, nylon.
@@philtucker1224 I you are living off grid, isolated and have a zero expenses philosophy, I would agree. I'm not to that degree, but an engineer who does most everything himself. That "must be at hand" criteria does not apply to me. I'll spend a little to do something right as opposed to "half-assing" it.
If I can make a repair completely serviceable, that's usually what I'm trying to achieve. I generally don't care too much about cosmetic appearance, but depending on what it is, I enjoy making the repair completely un-noticeable. I'm a professional and like any work I do to reflect that.
Patching something up as part of a crisis management situation, is fine, but I'll go back and make the proper repair. I don't get hung up on some zero cost repair concept. If I can spend a few bucks to achieve full functionality, that's what I'm going to do. I'm not a big fan of "shoemakered" tools. But I do make a lot of my own stuff if I end with something better than what's available. You can use a brick as a hammer, but anyone who refused to buy a real hammer, would be an idiot in my book.
I rarely throw something out as I'll usually find a good use for it. But I have a lot of space that I know many people don't have. I initially bought my commercial plastic welder to repair a bumper skin. It paid for itself compared to having a body shop do it. I've made hundreds of plastic repairs with it since. But I am a tool junkie to a point. A lot of times one repair job savings, can buy a new tool that makes it easier, as long as I have other uses for it to.
I'm all for being clever and I have a good track record in that regard, but I wouldn't see any point in limiting what I can accomplish by holding myself to some "rule" like you describe. More power to you if that's your thing. But I see plenty of beauty in what I accomplish without some arbitrary, self imposed limitation.
DYI for me is multipurpose. I can save money over having someone else do it and most often, I'll do it better than they would, albeit with a bit more time invested. I enjoy doing it and using and expanding my own skills. My general DYI approach regarding tools, has allowed me to put together a pretty impressing shop. I tend to take a long term view rather than a quickie half-assed fix approach.
Professor G gives the essential details that would have saved me days of folly back when I first got into repairing plastics. Bravo Professor!
You forgot to drill a hole at the end of the crack to prevent further cracking before you start plastic welding ....
- gern gesehen 👍👍
This is really informative and useful. Thank you for this amazing video.
That was awesome!!!! I’ve tried to melt plastic back together before, (didn’t work well), this method gives me the perfect know how now!!! Thank u so much!!! 😊
Good idea 👍
The way you weld is very professional, the weld line on the plastic is very beautiful, very perfect
Not professional! If it was, he wouldn't throw away the right filler material and not use CA glue or zip ties.
Thanks
I haven’t read the comments yet so maybe someone else mentioned this but it has been my experience that the plastic used to reinforce the joint has to be compatible with the original and zip ties don’t always work. To that end I would have used the waste from your grinding step or cut enough from the piece somewhere where it wouldn’t be noticed or structurally necessary for my add on source. I’ve made staples to add into cracked pieces when cosmetics aren’t important for strength also. Very satisfying work. Masks recommended but I rarely fuss with such bothers. (🙄) Nice work on the soldering iron mod.
I like staples too 👍
Your tips is much useful. Thank you
Terima kasih ilmunya bang, ilmu yg sangat bermanfaat 👍
Never ever use super glue on abs it very weak! I would also suggest to drill a small (2mm) hole at the end of the crack to stop futher splitting and put a metal mesh inside the weld to extra strenghten the weld . And allways use the same plastic to fill the gap .Otherwise a nice tutorial . Thank you
I'd save the grinding sprue to use in the back fill.
Bác này đa tài hơn mình 😂
1 great tutorial video on fixing plastic items, I will learn from your video
This is the third video of yours I’ve watch since stumbling on your channel but won’t be my last. Just subscribed and looking forward to your new videos. Now back to watching your older videos.
Very Good from Brazil
WAO..! Very Good and Number one...❤️❤️❤️👬👍👬❤️❤️❤️
Исходный пластик скорее всего АБС, только почему то его паяют нейлоновой стяжкой. Такого ремонта надолго не хватит.
More than wonderful, very, very good luck and permanent success in your good work
Very clever way to save earth from poisoning the nature..The pollution is the most dangerous thing that we’ve heard so far..My Congratulations to you sir!👏👍
Dzieki, Miłego Dnia
А цианоакрилат то тут на кой хрен сдался, если все это спокойно без него делается???
Более того, очччень токсичным будет дым при такой "склейке", когда им шов промазать.
OMG!!!! Going to do this to my bumper!!!!😂😂😂 thanks. Won’t be buying another iron.
Fantastic, great idea to repair. Thanks. Khalid Mahmoud Gujarat Pakistan
Great presentation! Thank you.
Excellent Thanks for share and Teach us
great video
Good job 👍
What did you heat up and smash and stick in the soldering iron?
did I just watch a plastic surgery??
😂😂👍
🤣
Not only a plastic, almost all of the meltible materials' surgeries. Especially black ones.
😅
Thank you very much
I use a piece of aluminum screen to melt in the back side for strength . It’s hard to screw that one up and it’s strong.
Harika…teşekkür ederiz…
Bonjour, votre tuto est formidable, c'est du très bon travail et ça a donné une bonne idée de réparation. De plus le fait d'avoir fait une panne pour ce travail, c'est très bien. Merci beaucoup😀😀😀😀❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Love from Pakistan
Top class handyman
Hay hay lắm
It's great, thank you
SUPER idée, et du bon travail bravoooooo !!!!!
Amazing fix
That was excellent. personally I would not spend time rubbing down or refinishing the inside of the repair that cannot be seen. Thank you for sharing 🙏
Nice job that's an awful lot of effort. Have you seen the hot staple gun? I like how you melt in that metal strip into the seam, but you still don't have a lot of cross structural strength I used the hot staple gun on a crack about 8 inches long on the top center of the hood of a John Deere x500 riding tractor. I didn't do any of the cosmetic work that you did on the inside but on the outside all you see on the outside is a scratch mark of the seam. I inserted a staple wave staple about every half inch or less and I did take a large chisel tip soldering iron and do a little plastic melting around the stainless steel staples to close and smooth out the plastic that gets squeezed out as the hot staple is pushed into the plastic. Once you get the Staples seated you can do a little bit of a twist of the gun handle which helps draw the seam tighter together. You should check it out search for hot staple gun plastic repair.
Well-done bro, 😊thanks
I love your videos. Very useful❤❤
Love watching this stuff. Too lazy to actually do it. But its entertainment nonetheless.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👌super.
Good Job, but end of crack should to delimit 3 or 4mm hole.
Wow! ❤❤❤😊
Для такого ремонта есть мелкая металическая сеточка которую просто впаивают в трещину.
Bom
Gostei
Parabéns
А чем из шприца поливали?
Wait… so you can weld ABS (probably) with Nylon?
You can if you’re clueless as to what you’re doing
Хорошее дохотчевое видео 🙏🙏🙏
ну вот попробуешь так же сделать и посмотри или до тебя дойдет
два несовместимых пластика.лопнет при не большом усилии.
@@алексеймурашов-ю4о оно лопнет даже если такой же пластик будет, как его не сшивай эт будет самое уязвимое место
Nothing about an Alan key 🤦♀️
There is no guarantee of rigidity, and it will crack again with a slight deformation.
There are many different types of polymer materials with different characteristics, and the bonding effect varies greatly depending on the material.
I have done a lot of plastic bonding experiments, without the use of metal wire throughout, the repair is no longer beautiful, but also can not be used.
The nylon zip tie was soldered to what seems to be an ABS panel?
❤❤Good
Если говорить про домашний ремонт подручными материалами, то ещё 50 лет назад в детстве проделывал всё это обыкновенным гвоздем или отвёрткой, нагретой на газовой плите. Не знал, что этого никто не знает. Интернета тогда не было.
PS: клей тут лишний, пластик должен быть хорошо "перемешан" в месте соединения. Но, конечно, первоначальной прочности всё -равно не добиться. Годится для ненагруженных соединений.
Sorry, but these videos with no word explanation leave so much to be desired that I don't care to watch them anymore.
The "thumbs-up" at the end is more for you than it is for one who is trying to learn the completeness of your demonstration.
Seems to be a little overkill, but job well done nonetheless.
We’ve seen this trick before from this channel. How’s this one any different?
That's all fine and dandy if you have Copper tubing lying around!
awesome!!!!
Show 👏👏👏
Super naprawa
銅線は加熱すると酸化膜が形成され、それが剥がれ落ちて修復物を汚します。
真鍮線を使った方が酸化膜は出にくいです。
Handwerklich gut durchdacht -kommt auf meine " Merkliste " Top 👍👍
This trick is decades old. It is only suitable for items which are not subjected to bending. The strength is not as original. It is only cosmetic make up. Harder the plastic better durability. To give tensile strength you can make a spiral stitch after making small holes on both borders. I have repaired several plastic buckets by this method which are still ok afer 5 years of use.
Where do you get the tape and glue?
hay quá
Have you not actually thought about this process? You should NOT be putting superglue in the join. When you weld in the filler material you want the new plastic to flow and blend with the base plastic rather than just stick on top of it, and super glue will be a barrier to this.
Nicest thxz
The front looks exactly the same 😮
Good
What is the power in watts of the soldering iron .
What is the power of your mini grinder tool
Awkward, but that's how it works.
In the meantime there are very good adhesives for something like that. It's a lot easier.
Класс ..Хомут и сломанная деталь из оного материала? РР наверно?
еще один проффЭссор "пластик" совмещает два разных вида пластика и считает это надежным
La colle cyanoacrylate est indispensable ?
А чього с другий стороны не заделал так же😊.
Great
表面に跡残っているやんか。接着剤流したのが失敗の元。
gostei dessa
Да, не плохо. Пригодится. Кое-что подобное я тоже делал. Но вот стяжку, ещё не использовал. 👍🎉👏👏👏🖐✌🇷🇺🐰
И не надо
i can fix everything with this?
Katero tekočino se uporablja?
Давно так паяю пластмасс.
SE PUEDE HACERLO CON UN SOLDADOR DE 100 WAHT O ES MUCHA TEMPERATURA
Mais ou menos .👉🇧🇷🤨🤨
そうか，ポリエチレンやポリプロピレンを接着するには，溶接と言う手段があったか．
Is this really-really strong... Body?
👍👍
Только если паяешь, зачем там суперклей? Суперклей уже самодостаточный для склейки поломанной пластмассы.
What is the substance in the syringe
your biggest mistake was sanding it down and removeing the extra product
The cover page thumbnail shows an allen wrench / key sticking out of the soldering iron. No where in this video does it show this.....
👍