Real world video - exactly how I work on cars. No slick video editing and stupid music. Thx much - I'm ready to change the ball joint on my Toyota. I've subscribed - keep up the good work. 👍
Thanks for this video man … great views of everything you need to see to do the job .. I have a 2012 Prius I’m going to do this on so thanks so much for showing me how to do it !!!
Thanks for the video but I found we almost never have ball joint issue in any Toyota car. They are all really good. The only time I found problems was because they are aftermarket or accident-related issues. Only the loaded ball joint in Toyota Trucks can have issues after 100k+ miles. If you want to replace ball joint, always get the original Toyota. They are just that good, nothing close.
Yes, you’re right. It’s general rule. I inspect my suspension every oil change and noticed that slight play in the wheel, but inner and outer tie rods were solid. Next oil change I visually saw the play was from the ball joint. So, sometimes everything is different.
Couldn't believe how loose the nut was at the start of the video with the pin still in? The safety pin that saved the day. It's from improper torque. What low profile wrench doesn't flare at the factory torque spec? 76 or 90 ft lbs.
Great video. Thanks for posting. I was told by the tire alignment place I went to that I needed new lower control arms before it could be aligned. Is there a chance my problem is just the ball joints? Is there a way to tell? The whole lower control arm replacement is the stuff nightmares are made of, requiring the removal of engine mounts or frame bushings and such...
Thanks, the only problem with lower control arm might be worn rubber bushings. You can easily check them visually. There are two bushings front and back. Look for cracked or torn rubber especially for back one. Yes, they are hard to replace because of the front bolt will face the oil pan. You have to loosen the engine mount, and lift the engine.
Nice job, though you probably would of had less trouble if you loosened and/or removed the two main knuckle bolts. It would have give you a lot more play room to position the ball joint.
Thank you! I didn’t think about that, but you can try that way too. I remember doing a ball joint on my other car where I had to remove those bolts to install it.
Then you need an alignment. Sometimes those strut to steering knuckle bolts are war also. On my Prius they were butter though. I'm all about removing the least things possible.
Yes I had exactly that problem, I tried a balljoint splitter but that didn't work, so I had to hire a mobile mechanic with a heavy duty fork type splitter and eventually he got them out. Awkward job!!
Hi this is an awesome video quick question could this cause creeking and occasional pop on a wheel when turning it’s just one single pop once in a while
Thanks, it can, but I would check the sway bar links for the pop sound. I had this problem before, after installing aftermarket links. Usually happens at slow speeds in parking lots. Have someone turning the steering wheel, and listen closely, they will make popping sounds.
If it’s too short, you probably have a wrong part. You can compare it to the old part. If the length of the stud is same, the stud can be thicker and can’t go all the way in. It’s not safe to drive with no cotter pin. If the castle nut gets loose, the entire wheel will collapse.
I prefer original parts, they last longer and fit perfectly. I would replace both if your car is old and the both ball joints are bad(leaking grease or have play).
Guys with stuck castle nut Dont roll it, you'll have to either take to shop or buy more tools if you dont have them Gotta take out that cv axle, impact/air wrench the nut off If that dont work, at least everything is away from it and you can torch it. Sorry it's being a pain, but thats cars i guess
Tell me about it. Last time I did this job, it didn’t occur to me to remove the cv axle so I took a dremel cutting disc to the castle nut. Took forever
I believe a proper installation would require removal of thr entire arm, not to say that this method will not work but I'd remove the entire arm just to be thorough
Good point, to be thorough you have to remove brakes, strut, steering rod, and axle. All this work needs to be done in order to easily remove/tighten top ball joint nut.
@@skycar2508 you got lucky that the castle nut and the cotter pin were so easily removable (not the norm). With such little clearance with the axle in the way, you probably would have had to do all of the above.
Check axle for rips or cuts. Make sure to replace with a factory part. Aftermarket aren’t always built to spec 100% and can cause vibrations even after replacement. While inspecting the axle check the ball joint for movement like he showed ya. A long pipe would help easier imo. Put it under the tire with the car up and jiggle up and down 🤙🏼
Thanks, there’s no way to get exact torque in my case because there’s not enough clearance to put a torque wrench on it. I used an extension pipe to get more leverage, and tightened it as much as I could.
I have a clunking noise when slowly stopping and slowly start again. I can't tell it is bad ball joint or bad lower control arm need to be change. Thanks in advance.
Try wiggling each wheel in different directions when it’s in the air. You will feel if there’s a looseness somewhere. Check lower control arm rubber bushings for any damage. Also, check sway bar bushings and links. Old struts or strut mounts can cause that clunking noise.
Hi, mostly it depends on conditions of the roads. Basically, both parts are replaced when they are worn out and have play in them. Toyota makes good parts, so just inspect them for any play and rubber boot integrity.
I didn’t do an alignment and the car drives fine. 20k miles later and no abnormal tire wear or pulling to the side. However, you can do an alignment if you have new tires, just to save them.
@@skycar2508 your welcome, believe that I have to do my own looked at quite a few videos and have to say liked yours the best. Hope that you and your family have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
You can buy it at local Toyota dealership or online from Toyota parts website. If you choose to go with aftermarket part, you can buy it at local parts store.
@@pspgamerserjioParts less than 100. Labor sounds reasonable, especially if your not willing to do it yourself. (Not saying you are) Visit the dealer then you will be crying 😂😂😂 I am not a mechanic but understand the knuckle busting work involved, a person needs to make a living . Tool box at a big box store that may have what you need 200 plus and that does not include power tools or wrenches. The ability and knowledge priceless. Do your research, roll up your sleeves, GET ER DONE. You can do it👍
@@jasonleblanc1422 the rear bushing on these control arms gets so shredded from years of abuse that they should def. be replaced. The shredded bushing causes excessive fore and aft movement of the control arm which also pushes the busing on the front mounting point bushing out of place. However the motor mounts need to come out first to be able to access one of the bolts for the control arms, so replace that mount as well. I just did this on our '08 Highlander with 231K miles. It was a project long past due.
@@roberthall7206 You're going to hear multiple banging and clunking noises as you drive over rough roads. You'll notice that the sound is pronounced in front vs when the rear wheels hit the same rough road. You're also likely to feel the vibrations that cause the noise through the steering wheel a bit as well as through the floor pan.
Great job! He made it through a whole car repair without one curse word. The man is a saint.
Thank you!
Real world video - exactly how I work on cars. No slick video editing and stupid music. Thx much - I'm ready to change the ball joint on my Toyota. I've subscribed - keep up the good work. 👍
Thank you!
Exactly 💯
BTW, that ball joint was a bit sketchy 😂
I FRICKEN KNEW IT!! you "Don't" have to remove the axel nut OR the tie rod. Thank you
Best method I’ve seen. Some guy removed everything down to the axle using a gun. I’ll use a gun and do it this way 😂
The hardest part of this job is removing the original castle nut. Somehow this guys nut was loose even before he removed the retaining clip lol
@@A4rings110 mine was rusted and stripped…I had to cut the bolt off
loop of rope around the lower control arm, then step on the improvised strirrup, easiest way to get a ball-joint back in the socket while in situ.
Thanks!
👍 Excellent do-it-yourself video . _( This is a common repair on the older Toyota Sequoia . )_
Thanks 👍
Thanks for this video man … great views of everything you need to see to do the job .. I have a 2012 Prius I’m going to do this on so thanks so much for showing me how to do it !!!
Thank you! I like that you mentioned what car you have. Good luck with your repair!
Thanks for the video but I found we almost never have ball joint issue in any Toyota car. They are all really good. The only time I found problems was because they are aftermarket or accident-related issues. Only the loaded ball joint in Toyota Trucks can have issues after 100k+ miles. If you want to replace ball joint, always get the original Toyota. They are just that good, nothing close.
nice...really surprised you got it back in that way....
Well done! Thanks for making this video!
Nice work! Looks like you were back in the house in under an hour. Did you get the ball joint from the dealer? If not, what brand did you get?
Thanks, I got the ball joint from the dealer. I had some bad experience with aftermarket parts, so I’m trying to avoid them.
@@skycar2508Thanks and great job on the video.
now that is a very good helpful video. thank you.
Thank you!
As far as i know any wiggle in the tire side to side is either inner or outer tire rod. Up and down movement in the tire is ball joint/control arm
Yes, you’re right. It’s general rule. I inspect my suspension every oil change and noticed that slight play in the wheel, but inner and outer tie rods were solid. Next oil change I visually saw the play was from the ball joint. So, sometimes everything is different.
Is this a loaded ball joint or un loaded. Where do you put the jack when testing. how high off the floor should the wheel be for testing
Thank you for sharing ❤
No problem 😊
Good job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Couldn't believe how loose the nut was at the start of the video with the pin still in? The safety pin that saved the day. It's from improper torque. What low profile wrench doesn't flare at the factory torque spec? 76 or 90 ft lbs.
Great video. Thanks for posting. I was told by the tire alignment place I went to that I needed new lower control arms before it could be aligned. Is there a chance my problem is just the ball joints? Is there a way to tell? The whole lower control arm replacement is the stuff nightmares are made of, requiring the removal of engine mounts or frame bushings and such...
Thanks, the only problem with lower control arm might be worn rubber bushings. You can easily check them visually. There are two bushings front and back. Look for cracked or torn rubber especially for back one. Yes, they are hard to replace because of the front bolt will face the oil pan. You have to loosen the engine mount, and lift the engine.
@@skycar2508 thank you! I'll do a visual inspection like you described. I appreciate it!
Thanks a million !!
I’m glad you like it!
Nice job, though you probably would of had less trouble if you loosened and/or removed the two main knuckle bolts. It would have give you a lot more play room to position the ball joint.
Thank you! I didn’t think about that, but you can try that way too. I remember doing a ball joint on my other car where I had to remove those bolts to install it.
Then you need an alignment. Sometimes those strut to steering knuckle bolts are war also. On my Prius they were butter though.
I'm all about removing the least things possible.
@@tboy160 Yep. Any time you replace something on your car’s suspension, you probably need an alignment.
@@saevurr not always, im replacing a ball joint that merely has a torn boot, no need to do alignment after
Thanks this video
You’re welcome!
Great video, thanks!
Very useful, 👍
Smooth af with just a few basic ass tools 👍🏼
👍
Your's came off effortlessly. Unfortunately both of mine are stuck...
Yes I had exactly that problem, I tried a balljoint splitter but that didn't work, so I had to hire a mobile mechanic with a heavy duty fork type splitter and eventually he got them out. Awkward job!!
Hi this is an awesome video quick question could this cause creeking and occasional pop on a wheel when turning it’s just one single pop once in a while
Thanks, it can, but I would check the sway bar links for the pop sound. I had this problem before, after installing aftermarket links. Usually happens at slow speeds in parking lots. Have someone turning the steering wheel, and listen closely, they will make popping sounds.
@@skycar2508 okay thank you will lift it up tomorrow and see what’s going on just hoping it’s not the rack 😅
If the stud to the ball joint is too short for the cotter pin, what could be the problem? Is it safe to drive with no cotter pin?
If it’s too short, you probably have a wrong part. You can compare it to the old part. If the length of the stud is same, the stud can be thicker and can’t go all the way in. It’s not safe to drive with no cotter pin. If the castle nut gets loose, the entire wheel will collapse.
Well done‼️💯
do you recommend aftermarket ball joints or should i get oem ball joint? should i replace both or one only?
I prefer original parts, they last longer and fit perfectly. I would replace both if your car is old and the both ball joints are bad(leaking grease or have play).
Good straight forward video.
Thank you!
Guys with stuck castle nut
Dont roll it, you'll have to either take to shop or buy more tools if you dont have them
Gotta take out that cv axle, impact/air wrench the nut off
If that dont work, at least everything is away from it and you can torch it.
Sorry it's being a pain, but thats cars i guess
Tell me about it. Last time I did this job, it didn’t occur to me to remove the cv axle so I took a dremel cutting disc to the castle nut. Took forever
How many foot pounds does it need, or in your case, how many times do you need to kick it with your foot?
50-60 foot pounds. Don’t kick it with foot, it’s not crazy tight.
When removing the cotter pin, it appears the castlenated nut is already loose? Did you loosen it first, then reinstall for video?
Right, mine ain't comin off, seems like I may have to go get a couple more sockets to take the cv axle out and actually be able to access it.
Great Content!! No Hammer needed 😂
Thanks 😅
I believe a proper installation would require removal of thr entire arm, not to say that this method will not work but I'd remove the entire arm just to be thorough
Good point, to be thorough you have to remove brakes, strut, steering rod, and axle. All this work needs to be done in order to easily remove/tighten top ball joint nut.
no need and that messes with the specific compression on the control arm bushings. if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
@@skycar2508 you got lucky that the castle nut and the cotter pin were so easily removable (not the norm). With such little clearance with the axle in the way, you probably would have had to do all of the above.
Could this cause my van to shake on acceleration?
No, it just makes clunking noise bumpy road.
Check axle for rips or cuts. Make sure to replace with a factory part. Aftermarket aren’t always built to spec 100% and can cause vibrations even after replacement. While inspecting the axle check the ball joint for movement like he showed ya. A long pipe would help easier imo. Put it under the tire with the car up and jiggle up and down 🤙🏼
tie rod ends and stabilizer bar links usually cause that problem
very useful. How did you get 52 ft in castle nut?
Thanks, there’s no way to get exact torque in my case because there’s not enough clearance to put a torque wrench on it. I used an extension pipe to get more leverage, and tightened it as much as I could.
Could you use an open-end wrench adapter for your torque wrench?
I have a clunking noise when slowly stopping and slowly start again. I can't tell it is bad ball joint or bad lower control arm need to be change. Thanks in advance.
Try wiggling each wheel in different directions when it’s in the air. You will feel if there’s a looseness somewhere. Check lower control arm rubber bushings for any damage. Also, check sway bar bushings and links. Old struts or strut mounts can cause that clunking noise.
@@skycar2508 Thanks for the information. 👍
Is there like an average miles a Toyota ball joint should be replaced??
50,000?
Wat about tie rod ?
Hi, mostly it depends on conditions of the roads. Basically, both parts are replaced when they are worn out and have play in them. Toyota makes good parts, so just inspect them for any play and rubber boot integrity.
Do you need to get an alignment afterwards?
I didn’t do an alignment and the car drives fine. 20k miles later and no abnormal tire wear or pulling to the side. However, you can do an alignment if you have new tires, just to save them.
Buen video
Thank you!
Thank you for the video, do I need to torque them all just snug them hard
Yes, make sure they are tight.
Nicely done brother 👍
Thank you!
@@skycar2508 your welcome, believe that I have to do my own looked at quite a few videos and have to say liked yours the best. Hope that you and your family have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
Good luck with your repair! Happy Thanksgiving!
@@skycar2508 thanks brother
mean while lower ball joint for honda would requires taking off the whole knuckle!
Question how do you grease the new ball joint?
It’s pre-greased from the factory. Some ball joints have greasing point, they need to be greased.
@@skycar2508 cool thanks bro 😎
Your car model
is prius 20 or 30?
20
Will this work for a 2007 toyota Prius??
Yes, this will work.
@@skycar2508 thanks
not hint of rust on that car lol mine was a POS castle nut and cotter pin got stuck had to use angle grinder to cut off castle nut
Great video
Thank you!
Prius 30 ball joint parts left & right same or no ???
Yes, they are listed under same part number(left/right lower ball joint assembly).
@@skycar2508 thank you 🙏
No problem.
Where can I buy the part ??
You can buy it at local Toyota dealership or online from Toyota parts website. If you choose to go with aftermarket part, you can buy it at local parts store.
@@skycar2508 thank you.
👍🏻
Thanks!
Thanks i
No problem.
you didn't show the. results.
I missed that part, but there was no play anymore.
👍👍
Thank you 👍
They charge at a shop 300$ for this
Yikes that's wayyyy too much
@@pspgamerserjioParts less than 100. Labor sounds reasonable, especially if your not willing to do it yourself. (Not saying you are)
Visit the dealer then you will be crying 😂😂😂 I am not a mechanic but understand the knuckle busting work involved, a person needs to make a living . Tool box at a big box store that may have what you need 200 plus and that does not include power tools or wrenches. The ability and knowledge priceless. Do your research, roll up your sleeves, GET ER DONE. You can do it👍
If that's gone bad, the control arm is probably shot too. Might as well change both.
lol how so
@@jasonleblanc1422 the rear bushing on these control arms gets so shredded from years of abuse that they should def. be replaced. The shredded bushing causes excessive fore and aft movement of the control arm which also pushes the busing on the front mounting point bushing out of place. However the motor mounts need to come out first to be able to access one of the bolts for the control arms, so replace that mount as well. I just did this on our '08 Highlander with 231K miles. It was a project long past due.
What kind of noise/symptoms were going on?
@@roberthall7206 You're going to hear multiple banging and clunking noises as you drive over rough roads. You'll notice that the sound is pronounced in front vs when the rear wheels hit the same rough road. You're also likely to feel the vibrations that cause the noise through the steering wheel a bit as well as through the floor pan.
Damn how much will it cost to pay a mechanic to do this? Just pay the man dude 😂
would of been easier if you removed the tire,axle
It’s true, but it requires more work.
n.m....