This has saved me twice now on my srt4 I had a T bolt break while out in "mexico" 3 hours from home buddy of mine told me about this so I limped my way to AutoZone found a bolt that would work and a few washers and I was good to go ran 28-30psi literally mins after fixing with no issues lol
Same, I think Taylor and Kevin over at KSR have talked about editing stuff. I noticed in Kevin's videos he started doing the 1/3 speed sound over the time lapse like Taylor awhile back. Then fairly recently Kevin started doing voice overs on his time lapse. Taylor always has well polished videos, the little things like the voiceover are appreciated for sure!
@@aaronb7990 I didn't notice kevin doing the sound like that. I really like doing it that way. Been tinkering with narration. Takes longer, but allows me to do/show more in the video. Instead of talking, then doing. I can talk while doing.
@@Taylordrifts The effort comes through in the final product. It really adds an element of engagement to the Time-lapse when what is happening and the little nuances of what had to be done are included.
@@billyriordan913 Ok , so Corvette's make bad drag cars ? I used traction bars on my Camaro and it still never hooked up as well as a Corvette . But I've never used Caltracs or what ever their called .
I really wish you had done the whole spiel on "worst case scenario" 6 weeks ago. About 6 weeks ago I finished installing a 6 liter lq9 I rebuilt in my 2004 Suburban. Drove it 10 minutes and it developed a really loud knock. Of course it must be a rod but I decided to assess it systematically. I got the left valve cover off but everything was tight. I was going to remove the right cover and follow up with the heads but I decided that since it would have to come out to fix the rod bearing anyway, I would just pull it. Three days later I had it out and finally removed the right valve cover. The #2 exhaust lifter had collapsed (it was brand new). Pulled the head only to find the lifter was fine. It turned out to be just a loose rocker arm screw that I must have missed torquing. I had already loosened the left head bolts, so I put on new head gaskets and bolts, reinstalled the rockers, and put it back in. Three days later it started right up and was fine. It now has about 450 miles on it and new oil and is running great. I could have saved a week of work and $150 if I had just followed through with the systematic assessment. Lesson learned.
I've wanted to talk about it for awhile, but I always stuggle with adding that stuff in, I don't want the video to be too wordy, but it was a really good example of something that could easily be misinterpreted as worst case. Atleast you got it all sorted in the end and didn't give up!
You can toss the gaskets in the freezer to shrink em a little to re-fit. And i always recommend taking an inspection mirror and look over the gaskets after install just in case it slipped out of its home.
I wanna say thank u Taylor for helping the younger generations to troubleshoot problems and have the knowledge to know what to do in any situation.. u my friend are one of a kind..just wanted to show some love..🤘🏻🔥🔥💯
Tip for anyone using t-bolt v-band clamps...stainless sucks, always lubricate it on install and disassembly. A little dab of Nickel anti-seize will make your life a lot easier. The threads will often gall and seize even on brand new bolts, especially if you use impacts or air ratchets. Keep it slow and by hand, if it starts to lock up, wait and let it cool down before continuing. If you do have to cut a bolt, you can just install a standard one, usually.
Love all of your projects, been following since you gave cleetus the difting lessons! Hope you enter your truck into next years sick week drag and drive!
I think some ceramic coating on the hotside would go a long way in protecting the plug wires. Send the exhaust housing out too or run a blanket on that bad boy.
A miss fire reads lean on an o2 sensor. Cause an o2 sensor reads oxygen in the exhaust if a cylinder doesnt fire the oxygen doesnt get used in combustion so the o2 reads it in the exhaust as a lean condition regardless of how much unburned fuel is in the exhaust.
I have not payed enough attention to this build. I am going to go back and watch all the videos. This is exactly what I want to do to my s10. With a 5.3.
You must use anti seize grease on the stainless steel threads or they will gall and weld solid whenever you are using a locking type nut. It is recommended to never assemble stainless hardware without some type of lube. Electric impacts make the issue worse. Just use a ratchet, the threads will last a lot longer.
You know it! We learned the hard way hanging outboard motors. Big breaker bar to twist things off and don't make that mistake again. Over torquing is the cause.
Glad you mentioned that bit about condensation in the valve covers, here in Minnesota it happens a lot especially in winter as we go from so hot and humid to cold and dry, and I get a few customers every year coming in saying they need head gaskets. Good tip for everyone 👌
Getting my turbo cateye "street" truck back this month. It's got a 220k mile gen 3 5.3 with a ss2 cam, billet wheel t6 s478, twin walbro 525s on x85. Built powerglide, stupid loose converter. Split monos, caltracs and strange coilovers. Getting the boost leash and terminator x setup and dynoed at the moment. Gonna push it as far as the 5.3 will go, hopefully low 10s, maybe 9s, blow it up and swap the 388ci in. Best thing ever is lining up next to hellcats and gapping them. Wanted to do a forged 6.0 and put a 4l80 in it and I might if the foxbody ever gets done. But turbo noises, hazing tires and hauling dirtbikes is kinda too much fun to pull apart.
that "milkshake" under the valve cover is also a symptom of not letting the engine run long enough. short burst of run time doesn't allow the condensation in the air to burn off. like when you where test firing the motor without coolant. humid Florida air short run time = milky heads. i get that "milkshake" on my stunt grom all the time and it's a air/oil cooled motor.
Am I the only one who LOVES the truck the way it is, but still wants to see a t56 swap and full suspension mods for a shits and gigs "drift truck" build?
I like the doing upgrades in "stages" ethos - makes complete sense and allows you to enjoy the vehicle without getting over-awed. I'll be applying that to my projects from now ;-)
Stainless v band and band clamps notoriously come with stainless t bolts with stainless nuts. They will gall and seize if you don't relieve the nut with a normal steel one.
Great advice, I've seen people spend days chasing a diagnosis this thinking it was something serious and it turned out to be something simple, always start with the basic simple things first
After workin on diesel trucks for 8 years i sometimes changed the nuts Stainless deforms easy and we tend to crank vbands more than we should Grade 8 nuts are a better choice for vbands or grind or cook the locking part off if it has them that helps A dab of copper never sieze where the nut stops helps I have up and forward setup so i remote mounted the coils under headers used vortec 350 plug wires they have the right terinal ends but you need a couple sets to avoid cutting and redoing terminal ends The end
Ceramic hot side 4 sure will help... love this build... glad its going well... can't wait for phase 2... need a bigger burnout too please mate, aussie spec!
Taylor, probably not necessarily needed BUT me coming from the 12V AV world, I always upgrade the charging lead from Alternator to battery, and then the battery group to engine and battery ground to frame. I always use 1/0 wire with soldered ends. Just something to think about. The factory grounds are a joke and the bare minimum to make a stock vehicle work.
I agree, it really smoothes out voltage and helps eliminate voltage drop. I think he only has a 2 channel amp maybe 4 channel in there but its quick and easy to do. Also better cold starts but he's in Florida so.
My stock 5.3 will fill the catch can with condensation in like a week. Filler neck always looks like milk shake in it too. Every oil change confirms its perfectly fine. Heck to the naysayers.
Ditch that trans cooler being under the truck and put it up front so it gets air while driving. I tried mine under the truck and built a scoop for it so it would grab so air but it never worked. Put it in the front with the scoop and it's been fine. Also wouldnt hurt to get a bigger cooler. Skip all the small stuff and get the tru-cool 40k.
You should do the exhaust like Cleetus' marauder with duals and a boost controlled dump the added restriction would light the turbo faster and would make a real sleeper till it hits boost and opens up
if you do not get a spark on a cylinder, there will be a lot of oxygen in the exhaust gases and the lambda will show lean mixture (3:40)…. just a thought
On my suburban I put cheap long tubes on and burned plug wires but one thing I did that helped where it was basically touching I had the sleeves but I split some rubber hose and wrapped it around the wire but I assume you are making more heat but I guess the rubber drys out or just breaks down and becomes hard but mine doesn't look like it is burning with the sleeve over that
Dude congrats on nearly completing this truck, been watching for years and years and this might be my favourite build, its awesome!! I live in the UK and i would do anything to build a turbo LS car or truck but we don't get them :( it looks awesome! Can't wait to see the future for this truck
@@frazz3336 very easy to import Ls engines and even easier to import cars/trucks also quite cheap. Have helped a few people. So obviously you wouldn't 'do anything' 🤣
@@garyhowe88 Well from what I've seen and learned, its not cheap or easy to import anything to the UK right now, its definitely not easy, maybe you do it all the time and that's why it's "easy" for you but for the normal guy who doesn't import anything it ain't easy 😂 and obviously i wouldn't "do anything" as I'm not a moron or willing to throw money at the situation
Hylomar Blue for gasket sealant instead of superglue bud! A couple of small dabs under the gasket holds it in place and still allows it in move as you torque the head down...
If you haven't decided on a rear end yet, Moser makes a drag pack 9" for basically a bolt in deal for the Silverado, I just got one with 35 spline axles and a wavetrac for strength and dependability and you can add drain plugs and what not, pick your center section and brakes and bolt pattern... I messed around with a built 10 bolt and trying to keep the launches limited but I broke one of the upgraded axles within a year which is overly exciting when it happens on the 1-2 shift. I second whoever said get caltracs worth the money.
This is awesome. I had an OBS with a small block and I couldn't wait for this series to start so I could build ideas for mine.. but I ended up trading for a Cummins before we got here. Keep up the fantastic content.
Running lean is not deadly until predetonation starts to occur and or you start to burn valves and rings and dropping valve seats. High engine temperature will be a warning sign but not always.
i love the truck build, but if it was me, id skip the forced induction and just get that LS 427 with a nice cam, and that built 4l80 you got. good luck with the turbo truck.
Pro tip: you you can cut the bolt off and still reuse the same vband clamp. Replace the t bolt w regular bolt add a over size washer.
Damn that’s smart. Thanks dude
@@annablle1874 your messages might suck but your also helping with the Algorithm. So, at least there's one good thing from your trash!
This has saved me twice now on my srt4 I had a T bolt break while out in "mexico" 3 hours from home buddy of mine told me about this so I limped my way to AutoZone found a bolt that would work and a few washers and I was good to go ran 28-30psi literally mins after fixing with no issues lol
You can get better rated bolts if you go to the right place too .
And I always put a dab of Nickel anti-seize on the threads when installing and removing, it works wonders to stop stainless galling.
Really glad that the truck puts a smile on Chrissy’s face too. You know you’ve done good ! 👍🏽😎
Tape some welding wire or solid copper wire to the plug wires so you can form them away from the headers.
This is badass advice. Thank you
What ingenious advice!!! Lol
Fibreglass or carbon rods from the hobby store and heat shrink.
Taylors ability to just dive into something is so awesome to watch.
Really enjoying the voice over on b roll. I don't remember a bunch of it in older videos, but I like it. Informative and to the point.
Same, I think Taylor and Kevin over at KSR have talked about editing stuff. I noticed in Kevin's videos he started doing the 1/3 speed sound over the time lapse like Taylor awhile back. Then fairly recently Kevin started doing voice overs on his time lapse.
Taylor always has well polished videos, the little things like the voiceover are appreciated for sure!
@@aaronb7990 I didn't notice kevin doing the sound like that. I really like doing it that way. Been tinkering with narration. Takes longer, but allows me to do/show more in the video. Instead of talking, then doing. I can talk while doing.
@@Taylordrifts The effort comes through in the final product. It really adds an element of engagement to the Time-lapse when what is happening and the little nuances of what had to be done are included.
When you upgrade the rear, I'd recommend a set of Caltracs. They make sooo much difference on a leaf spring vehicle. I had them on my nitrous truck.
They really do
He knows how to fab well enough to turn it into a intendent rear suspension , and that's by far the best way to deal with leaf springs .
@@JerryHenderson72 not when your goal is taking it to the drag strip...
@@billyriordan913 Ok , so Corvette's make bad drag cars ? I used traction bars on my Camaro and it still never hooked up as well as a Corvette . But I've never used Caltracs or what ever their called .
Not the Camaro pictured , that's my 4th one . the one I put traction bars on was a 1977 .
That night drive... with the reflection in the window... such a nice angle.
I really wish you had done the whole spiel on "worst case scenario" 6 weeks ago. About 6 weeks ago I finished installing a 6 liter lq9 I rebuilt in my 2004 Suburban. Drove it 10 minutes and it developed a really loud knock. Of course it must be a rod but I decided to assess it systematically. I got the left valve cover off but everything was tight. I was going to remove the right cover and follow up with the heads but I decided that since it would have to come out to fix the rod bearing anyway, I would just pull it. Three days later I had it out and finally removed the right valve cover. The #2 exhaust lifter had collapsed (it was brand new). Pulled the head only to find the lifter was fine. It turned out to be just a loose rocker arm screw that I must have missed torquing. I had already loosened the left head bolts, so I put on new head gaskets and bolts, reinstalled the rockers, and put it back in. Three days later it started right up and was fine. It now has about 450 miles on it and new oil and is running great. I could have saved a week of work and $150 if I had just followed through with the systematic assessment. Lesson learned.
I've wanted to talk about it for awhile, but I always stuggle with adding that stuff in, I don't want the video to be too wordy, but it was a really good example of something that could easily be misinterpreted as worst case. Atleast you got it all sorted in the end and didn't give up!
You can toss the gaskets in the freezer to shrink em a little to re-fit. And i always recommend taking an inspection mirror and look over the gaskets after install just in case it slipped out of its home.
I wanna say thank u Taylor for helping the younger generations to troubleshoot problems and have the knowledge to know what to do in any situation.. u my friend are one of a kind..just wanted to show some love..🤘🏻🔥🔥💯
Tip for anyone using t-bolt v-band clamps...stainless sucks, always lubricate it on install and disassembly. A little dab of Nickel anti-seize will make your life a lot easier. The threads will often gall and seize even on brand new bolts, especially if you use impacts or air ratchets. Keep it slow and by hand, if it starts to lock up, wait and let it cool down before continuing.
If you do have to cut a bolt, you can just install a standard one, usually.
Looking good. Pro build tip get argon before you run out lol
you inspired me finish my turbo suburban build keep up the dope content
You should put a boost controlled cut out in the exhaust like cleetus did on the marauder
what you talking about, it's stock.
Oh yeah I meant "an A/C pressure relief valve" 😉 lol
The most overused joke ever. Shit becomes unfunny after the 69th time
Love all of your projects, been following since you gave cleetus the difting lessons! Hope you enter your truck into next years sick week drag and drive!
I want to see a truck class and a fwd class at sick week. It would be awesome!
stainless steel can cold weld together if you tighten it to much with no lube, just put a dab of oil on the threads when you crank it down
Love it!
Take it out and do some fishing. I would love to see it run against some others!!
Good to hear someone else still listens to slug and atmosphere
Very informative! I have that problem on my semi built b18c1. Now I know I need more ventilation! Catch can here I come...
Can't wait to see what wheels you go with on this truck. It's going to completely change the look.
This gives me motivation to finish my turbo build
What's the build platform?
@@jwalking1159 boosted honda. Building a h23 with a 5858 precision turbo. Just a fun street car.
@@Fackler91 very nice, I miss my 4th gen. Favorite body of the prelude
@@jwalking1159 I've never had the chance to own one but I agree. Love that gen.
I think some ceramic coating on the hotside would go a long way in protecting the plug wires. Send the exhaust housing out too or run a blanket on that bad boy.
🤝
A miss fire reads lean on an o2 sensor. Cause an o2 sensor reads oxygen in the exhaust if a cylinder doesnt fire the oxygen doesnt get used in combustion so the o2 reads it in the exhaust as a lean condition regardless of how much unburned fuel is in the exhaust.
I have not payed enough attention to this build. I am going to go back and watch all the videos. This is exactly what I want to do to my s10. With a 5.3.
glad you fixed it, had same issued had to put a relay right near my pumps to give them all the volts.
You must use anti seize grease on the stainless steel threads or they will gall and weld solid whenever you are using a locking type nut. It is recommended to never assemble stainless hardware without some type of lube. Electric impacts make the issue worse. Just use a ratchet, the threads will last a lot longer.
You know it! We learned the hard way hanging outboard motors. Big breaker bar to twist things off and don't make that mistake again. Over torquing is the cause.
Taylor in the shop listening to that boom-bap!
Loved watching this build, so much custom for a shop truck. So cool to see all the issues and what you did to fix everything.
Glad you mentioned that bit about condensation in the valve covers, here in Minnesota it happens a lot especially in winter as we go from so hot and humid to cold and dry, and I get a few customers every year coming in saying they need head gaskets. Good tip for everyone 👌
Getting my turbo cateye "street" truck back this month. It's got a 220k mile gen 3 5.3 with a ss2 cam, billet wheel t6 s478, twin walbro 525s on x85. Built powerglide, stupid loose converter. Split monos, caltracs and strange coilovers. Getting the boost leash and terminator x setup and dynoed at the moment. Gonna push it as far as the 5.3 will go, hopefully low 10s, maybe 9s, blow it up and swap the 388ci in. Best thing ever is lining up next to hellcats and gapping them. Wanted to do a forged 6.0 and put a 4l80 in it and I might if the foxbody ever gets done. But turbo noises, hazing tires and hauling dirtbikes is kinda too much fun to pull apart.
3m weather strip adhesive works really well to hold gaskets in place also
Ready to see the c6 finished
that "milkshake" under the valve cover is also a symptom of not letting the engine run long enough. short burst of run time doesn't allow the condensation in the air to burn off. like when you where test firing the motor without coolant. humid Florida air short run time = milky heads. i get that "milkshake" on my stunt grom all the time and it's a air/oil cooled motor.
I would really love to see the little green ripper do a drag week or raceweek of some kind!! Might be the "Purpose" the build has been looking for!!
I like how you're doing voice over commentary on the sped up footage of you working on the truck.
Got my shirts yesterday and I love them appreciate it man thanks
Am I the only one who LOVES the truck the way it is, but still wants to see a t56 swap and full suspension mods for a shits and gigs "drift truck" build?
14:10 definitely needed to hear that. Anytime my built STI makes a weird noise I assume it’s blown up… including now.
Hearing lots of Rhymesayers in the background lately, mint.
We got a sneak peak of the roll up doors I'm ready for some more shop videos
I like the doing upgrades in "stages" ethos - makes complete sense and allows you to enjoy the vehicle without getting over-awed. I'll be applying that to my projects from now ;-)
Badass man I really need to build my 03 shortbed z71 in a similar manor
great progress on the truck, makes me want to do the same to my trash hauling truck
using a few dabs of rtv on the valve cover gasket also works aswell as super glue if you're in a pinch
All the Aussies be like, "ya call that a burnout?" 😂
Always jammin to Brother Ali. Love it 👌🏻. Awesome work as always dude
Is it just me or does everyone love how he says “Beat The Snot Out Of This Thing”?
Great videos keep it up man really inspiring me the build Car of my own
Nothing better than that “Florida after cold front turbo weather”
You need a fan shroud. The fans and rad will not be apart of the overheating issue. The episodes are great.
I just finished the video. Please keep it 6lug and 1 day go all wheel drive. 4k awd launches are the best!!!!!
Stainless v band and band clamps notoriously come with stainless t bolts with stainless nuts. They will gall and seize if you don't relieve the nut with a normal steel one.
I had the same problem with the valve covers and I never thought of super glue basically I just put rtv to help it stick and it sealed it up
Happy to see it buddy
Love the troubleshooting thought process. ya never know when someone might use the info.
it be sick to see the truck painted
I want to see you max out this turbo before you swap it. You know for science :)
Science
Loving the truck build super cool its something anyone can do also dont need a expensive sports can to go fast and have fun
Big fan of the channel been watching since the ramcharger. Love this build gmt800s are my fav lol
Great advice, I've seen people spend days chasing a diagnosis this thinking it was something serious and it turned out to be something simple, always start with the basic simple things first
KISS
Keep
It
Simple
Stupid
It’s a good day when Taylor Posts
Great build and thanks for the tech tips. The more you know
Excellent job my friend
good to see all the bugs getting worked out and getting this thing dialled..
After workin on diesel trucks for 8 years i sometimes changed the nuts
Stainless deforms easy and we tend to crank vbands more than we should
Grade 8 nuts are a better choice for vbands or grind or cook the locking part off if it has them that helps
A dab of copper never sieze where the nut stops helps
I have up and forward setup so i remote mounted the coils under headers used vortec 350 plug wires they have the right terinal ends but you need a couple sets to avoid cutting and redoing terminal ends
The end
Yay! Taylor content is my favourite
Love the truck build!!! Building my own!!
Ceramic hot side 4 sure will help... love this build... glad its going well... can't wait for phase 2... need a bigger burnout too please mate, aussie spec!
It was 50 here in the north east Saturday and Sunday woke up to 13 and 4 inches of snow and about 10 inches by end of the day
Whoa!! T.Ray!
You should take this on sick week, or some kind of drag and drive event
Taylor, probably not necessarily needed BUT me coming from the 12V AV world, I always upgrade the charging lead from Alternator to battery, and then the battery group to engine and battery ground to frame. I always use 1/0 wire with soldered ends. Just something to think about. The factory grounds are a joke and the bare minimum to make a stock vehicle work.
I agree, it really smoothes out voltage and helps eliminate voltage drop. I think he only has a 2 channel amp maybe 4 channel in there but its quick and easy to do. Also better cold starts but he's in Florida so.
My stock 5.3 will fill the catch can with condensation in like a week. Filler neck always looks like milk shake in it too. Every oil change confirms its perfectly fine. Heck to the naysayers.
Was legit just looking at your channel like 20 minutes ago to see if there was a new vid 🤣🤣
Hoping for some shop updates soon!!
Nice! Turned out great. Good thing I'm poor cause I would be throwing a turbo on my 6.0L this weekend after see this haha.
Nice 👍 looking forward to seeing more pulls in the truck and the other builds thank you for your content
Gotta take the truck on a drag and drive event, would be super cool to see!
Need to see some bad ass wheels on the truck
Can't wait to see you ripping this thing on many drag-n-drive events in the future
Ditch that trans cooler being under the truck and put it up front so it gets air while driving. I tried mine under the truck and built a scoop for it so it would grab so air but it never worked. Put it in the front with the scoop and it's been fine. Also wouldnt hurt to get a bigger cooler. Skip all the small stuff and get the tru-cool 40k.
Loved the video. Including the life lesson
Any plan to get it in the dyno? It would be cool to document each phase with numbers. *and drag
You should do the exhaust like Cleetus' marauder with duals and a boost controlled dump the added restriction would light the turbo faster and would make a real sleeper till it hits boost and opens up
It’s coming along great love the truck
if you do not get a spark on a cylinder, there will be a lot of oxygen in the exhaust gases and the lambda will show lean mixture (3:40)…. just a thought
On my suburban I put cheap long tubes on and burned plug wires but one thing I did that helped where it was basically touching I had the sleeves but I split some rubber hose and wrapped it around the wire but I assume you are making more heat but I guess the rubber drys out or just breaks down and becomes hard but mine doesn't look like it is burning with the sleeve over that
Maybe consider getting a turbo blanket ? Or wrapping the Dow pipe
Great content thanks for allowing
Dude congrats on nearly completing this truck, been watching for years and years and this might be my favourite build, its awesome!! I live in the UK and i would do anything to build a turbo LS car or truck but we don't get them :( it looks awesome! Can't wait to see the future for this truck
The Vauxhall Monaro and VXR8 were sold in the UK. Both have either LS2 or LS3.
@@mcbedeakin yeah, you can't get one for under £6000 or £7000 and that would be cheap 😂 probably looking around £10.000 for one and that's stupid
@@frazz3336 very easy to import Ls engines and even easier to import cars/trucks also quite cheap. Have helped a few people. So obviously you wouldn't 'do anything' 🤣
@@garyhowe88 Well from what I've seen and learned, its not cheap or easy to import anything to the UK right now, its definitely not easy, maybe you do it all the time and that's why it's "easy" for you but for the normal guy who doesn't import anything it ain't easy 😂 and obviously i wouldn't "do anything" as I'm not a moron or willing to throw money at the situation
Hylomar Blue for gasket sealant instead of superglue bud! A couple of small dabs under the gasket holds it in place and still allows it in move as you torque the head down...
I'd love to see you take the truck on Rocky Mountain race week or drag week, join Cleet's band of merry dragmen 😂, that would be awesome 👌
If you haven't decided on a rear end yet, Moser makes a drag pack 9" for basically a bolt in deal for the Silverado, I just got one with 35 spline axles and a wavetrac for strength and dependability and you can add drain plugs and what not, pick your center section and brakes and bolt pattern... I messed around with a built 10 bolt and trying to keep the launches limited but I broke one of the upgraded axles within a year which is overly exciting when it happens on the 1-2 shift. I second whoever said get caltracs worth the money.
A shroud will keep that temp down at idle. Also, have the fans come when the thermostat opens up.
This is awesome. I had an OBS with a small block and I couldn't wait for this series to start so I could build ideas for mine.. but I ended up trading for a Cummins before we got here. Keep up the fantastic content.
Running lean is not deadly until predetonation starts to occur and or you start to burn valves and rings and dropping valve seats.
High engine temperature will be a warning sign but not always.
wonder if he got argon yet?
Yes, saw it on his Instagram.
This build is amazing! I don't even like most trucks.
Matt is a legend
i love the truck build, but if it was me, id skip the forced induction and just get that LS 427 with a nice cam, and that built 4l80 you got. good luck with the turbo truck.
Turbo 427 ftw
I feel like when you go to painting it you should repaint it green just fits the truck so we'll