nice 1 mickey i can remember riding a t 250 hustler back in 79. i was 18 went like a bat out of hell i will never forget the experience only 45 years go thanks for sharing
I restored one 3 or 4 years ago, and both exhausts on mine had rattling plates inside, like yours. They are spot welded on the back half only, like you said. I managed to buy 2 new, old stock pipes, and could see the partitions were welded on both sides on these. Suzuki obviously modified them. I think it was a very common problem.
Hi Mickey, picking up a Blue 1978 model up tomorrow morning, lovely paint, good chrome, etc and the seat looks brand new. Bike is very clean/tidy and looks like it had a resto not long ago and bike has all original indicators, lights and switches/gauges look fresh, though it does have an aftermarket brake reservoir which is Black instead of opaque but at least it is a circular one with the screw off cap so keeping with the style of the OEM one. Carbs rebuilt and vapor blasted, engine turns over great with good compression. Needs absolutely nothing bar a bit of wiring in the headlight needs re-connecting and battery putting back on. Got it for £1800 - Well made up.
I had a t250 had to renew Crankshaft bearings as they were knackered and you could hear the crank making wonderful sounds as you whine it up, also the pipes had to be cleaned out every six weeks, as used only for short journeys and oiled up the system, plug change every 2500 miles , those were the great days of motorcycles, now have t120 2016 goes well and handles well with upgrade shocks and springs on the front!
Mickey good job and loved the burble of the Suzi. Think I mentioned that my 3 cylinder on the ramp when you were up the other week, I had used the 4mm thick lolly sticks to sync carbs as usual, then decided to drill through gantry and put some 4mm adapters in for my vacuum gauges. Mr genius here thought he had done a good job with the lolly sticks but the gauges were more out than I would have liked (but it sounded perfect) however the biggest difference was seen at 3500rpm when there was a big difference to centre carb although I can't figure out why. So with gauges I tweeked the centre carb to be more balanced at that range... This is where a lot of flat spots can occur when going through rev range in my opinion. I also swapped gauges around to confirm one was not knackered. Smiffy
Hello mate, hope you are well. I need your editing skills for my videos! I would have speeded up the baffle cleaning video up if I knew how! Thanks for the info on using the gauges. I have a friend who has a set of gauges, he has offered to fit them to my bike and have a tweak, so hopefully I will get that done soon. Maybe even video it if he doesn’t mind. Take care 👍
A good way of balancing two or three carburettors that have individual cables from a junction box is to back off the throttle stops so that the slides can close completely, then with the engine not running you listen to the sound of the slides closing and adjust the individual cables until the clicks from each slide merge into a single click. Now while opening and closing the throttle (still with engine not running) turn each individual throttle stop screw in until it reaches the exact point where the sound of it closing changes. Now with the engine running turn both/all the throttle stops in by exactly equal amounts until you have the correct idle speed. I suggest checking the oil pump adjustment after adjusting the throttle cables on an engine with oil injection. You can sometimes get much nicer pick-up from idle if you adjust the individual idle mixture (air) screws. With the engine fully warmed up and idling, gently pull the throttle cable to one carburettor (you can only pull it a small amount on Japanese bikes because of the captive cable ferrules). Turn the air screw toward "lean" until you find a point where the engine speed no longer increases slightly as you pull the throttle cable to this carburettor, then turn the screw toward "rich" just enough to regain the slight increase in speed. Repeat for the other carburettor(s). Now you should have a perfectly smooth splutter-free pick-up as you pull away, even if you do so very gently. I think your bike is well set up by the method that you used.
Hi Cedric, thank you for taking the time to type out your comment. You explain it very well. I will see how I get on for now until I get a pair of identical baffles. Then I will set the carbs up again using your method. Kind regards Mickey 🙂
@@MadMickey58 I hope it goes really well. Another thing you can do that will often give smoother running especially at low speeds and also better fuel economy is to replace the spark plugs by precious-metal-tipped ones if they are available in the same heat grade, for example NGK B9EV or B9EGV instead of B9ES in the Suzuki GT250. The precious metal electrodes are of smaller diameter which makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap, and also the surrounding gases are more exposed to the spark which increases the probability of ignition of the gases even when they are heavily diluted with exhaust gas as is the case in a two-stroke engine at small throttle openings.
The baffles are supposed to have wadding on them held in place with wire to quiet the exuast noise and helps with the back pressure needed for a two stroke it will run much better then I had a GT 250 the same type and had the same prom lens where some one had knocked the baffles in
Hi Stephen, yes I have heard about the webbing fitted when the bikes were new. I have also heard that the webbing was suppose to be removed on the first service, although I don't know the reason for this, if it is true. I'm thinking that after a while the webbing would make the carboning up problem worse and the baffles harder to remove?? I have a Yamaha FS1 and according to the workshop manual that should also have webbing fitted, but it hasn't. Cheers Mickey
13.6mm float height (measured between the float arm and the top of the main jet tower -weirdly)on the 'A'. Haynes says 31mm for the 'M' measured more conventionally, does your manual concur?
nice 1 mickey i can remember riding a t 250 hustler back in 79. i was 18 went like a bat out of hell i will never forget the experience only 45 years go thanks for sharing
I restored one 3 or 4 years ago, and both exhausts on mine had rattling plates inside, like yours. They are spot welded on the back half only, like you said. I managed to buy 2 new, old stock pipes, and could see the partitions were welded on both sides on these. Suzuki obviously modified them. I think it was a very common problem.
Hi Mickey, picking up a Blue 1978 model up tomorrow morning, lovely paint, good chrome, etc and the seat looks brand new.
Bike is very clean/tidy and looks like it had a resto not long ago and bike has all original indicators, lights and switches/gauges look fresh, though it does have an aftermarket brake reservoir which is Black instead of opaque but at least it is a circular one with the screw off cap so keeping with the style of the OEM one.
Carbs rebuilt and vapor blasted, engine turns over great with good compression.
Needs absolutely nothing bar a bit of wiring in the headlight needs re-connecting and battery putting back on.
Got it for £1800 - Well made up.
Wow, that sounds like a bargain. Hope you get it up and running ok and enjoy riding it this summer 🙂
I had a t250 had to renew Crankshaft bearings as they were knackered and you could hear the crank making wonderful sounds as you whine it up, also the pipes had to be cleaned out every six weeks, as used only for short journeys and oiled up the system, plug change every 2500 miles , those were the great days of motorcycles, now have t120 2016 goes well and handles well with upgrade shocks and springs on the front!
Best bikes the GT
Mickey good job and loved the burble of the Suzi. Think I mentioned that my 3 cylinder on the ramp when you were up the other week, I had used the 4mm thick lolly sticks to sync carbs as usual, then decided to drill through gantry and put some 4mm adapters in for my vacuum gauges. Mr genius here thought he had done a good job with the lolly sticks but the gauges were more out than I would have liked (but it sounded perfect) however the biggest difference was seen at 3500rpm when there was a big difference to centre carb although I can't figure out why. So with gauges I tweeked the centre carb to be more balanced at that range... This is where a lot of flat spots can occur when going through rev range in my opinion. I also swapped gauges around to confirm one was not knackered. Smiffy
Hello mate, hope you are well. I need your editing skills for my videos! I would have speeded up the baffle cleaning video up if I knew how! Thanks for the info on using the gauges. I have a friend who has a set of gauges, he has offered to fit them to my bike and have a tweak, so hopefully I will get that done soon. Maybe even video it if he doesn’t mind. Take care 👍
Looks like the baffles are 2 different types looking at the hole pattern
Keep up the good work 👍
Yes, larger holes and inner bulkheads are fitted to the one that I repaired. Hoping to sort this out soon 👍
Hope you had a good summer on it.
Never got around to insuring the old girl! However she is now insured so next dry day I will be out on her to see how she goes!
A good way of balancing two or three carburettors that have individual cables from a junction box is to back off the throttle stops so that the slides can close completely, then with the engine not running you listen to the sound of the slides closing and adjust the individual cables until the clicks from each slide merge into a single click. Now while opening and closing the throttle (still with engine not running) turn each individual throttle stop screw in until it reaches the exact point where the sound of it closing changes. Now with the engine running turn both/all the throttle stops in by exactly equal amounts until you have the correct idle speed. I suggest checking the oil pump adjustment after adjusting the throttle cables on an engine with oil injection.
You can sometimes get much nicer pick-up from idle if you adjust the individual idle mixture (air) screws. With the engine fully warmed up and idling, gently pull the throttle cable to one carburettor (you can only pull it a small amount on Japanese bikes because of the captive cable ferrules). Turn the air screw toward "lean" until you find a point where the engine speed no longer increases slightly as you pull the throttle cable to this carburettor, then turn the screw toward "rich" just enough to regain the slight increase in speed. Repeat for the other carburettor(s). Now you should have a perfectly smooth splutter-free pick-up as you pull away, even if you do so very gently.
I think your bike is well set up by the method that you used.
Hi Cedric, thank you for taking the time to type out your comment. You explain it very well. I will see how I get on for now until I get a pair of identical baffles. Then I will set the carbs up again using your method. Kind regards Mickey 🙂
@@MadMickey58 I hope it goes really well. Another thing you can do that will often give smoother running especially at low speeds and also better fuel economy is to replace the spark plugs by precious-metal-tipped ones if they are available in the same heat grade, for example NGK B9EV or B9EGV instead of B9ES in the Suzuki GT250. The precious metal electrodes are of smaller diameter which makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap, and also the surrounding gases are more exposed to the spark which increases the probability of ignition of the gases even when they are heavily diluted with exhaust gas as is the case in a two-stroke engine at small throttle openings.
Loved mine blew it up so many times must have been a 300cc by the time I sold it
The baffles are supposed to have wadding on them held in place with wire to quiet the exuast noise and helps with the back pressure needed for a two stroke it will run much better then I had a GT 250 the same type and had the same prom lens where some one had knocked the baffles in
Hi Stephen, yes I have heard about the webbing fitted when the bikes were new. I have also heard that the webbing was suppose to be removed on the first service, although I don't know the reason for this, if it is true. I'm thinking that after a while the webbing would make the carboning up problem worse and the baffles harder to remove?? I have a Yamaha FS1 and according to the workshop manual that should also have webbing fitted, but it hasn't. Cheers Mickey
I had great fun writing that book 😁
That tool is called an impact driver
sweet little Suzi.....ookie 👌
Impact driver name of tool. Lovely bike mate. I want one.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for your comment. As soon as I switched off the camera I remembered the name ! 😀
13.6mm float height (measured between the float arm and the top of the main jet tower -weirdly)on the 'A'. Haynes says 31mm for the 'M' measured more conventionally, does your manual concur?
@@bananabrooks3836 Hi, yes the Pitman manual says 13.6 . Thanks 👍
What no wheelie 😊
Impact screwdriver