USG Plus 3 -VS- All Purpose, Don't use the Wrong one
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2021
- I recommend TWO types of Drywall Bucket Mud for novices. USG Plus 3 or Regular weight All Purpose. But which Drywall Joint Compound do YOU need? Open the description to find out more.
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Can you tape with all purpose and then apply plus 3 after it dries? I have a situation where I have to skimcoat my bathroom due to someone applying the wrong paint and or not priming it before applying the specific paint. I want to use something easy like the +3 but I want to make sure that the tape sticks good.
Recently started muddin'. I never used the all purpose pre mix but i have tried the ultra lightweight. i struggled with it a few times and decided to try powder quick set (45), and just mixed my own. I quickly got better. Mixing my own mud, to different consistencies, based on different applications. Working with powder really helped me understand the materials i was working with. im sure quickset isnt the "do all" that i use it for however, doing so helped me form the foundation of a new skill. Which i find highly valuable. I really appreciate tradesman that are willing to share there knowledge and skill. To you sir, 10 years good luck.
I have recently retired but I hung drywall and finished for 40 years. We used to put a couple of capfuls of Joy dish detergent in a 5 gallon bucket of mud with a 16 oz bottle of clean water. Makes the mud easier to pull and finish slick as glass!
Yeah love sanding ceilings with that in it .Burns the eyes real good.
Thank you. It's really helpful to hear from a pro, not just about how they do it, but how an amateur should do it. Not always the same thing.
Finally, a video that actually explains the whys and why nots, pros and cons, dos and don’ts. What really makes me mad is I’ve watched your videos before. Your content is always very informative. I’m a handyman by trade and have pretty good skills in many areas. But not fast or efficient as any specific tradesman in their area. I completely forgot about your channel. However, I’m not about to make that mistake again. As soon as I post this, I’m subscribing!
Thank you for your shared knowledge. It’s a little late for the project I just finished, (a foyer plaster ceiling tear out with drywall replacement), but I have my house gutted to studs and will be eventually putting drywall back up.
For the foyer project, I used Plus 3 for everything from taping to topping. And it came out beautiful. The client loved it. Surprisingly, to even myself, I had perfect tape adhesion. That’s the first time ever that I didn’t have to cut out and edge of tape and resmooth. When I go to do my walls, I’ll try the All-purpose for taping and see if I can make it even better.
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One of the best explanations on ready to use drywall mud vs the setting type drywall mud that I've come across Thank you!
Thanks, Guy! Finishing a recording room project. 1st time DIY-er on nearly all aspects as it’s nearly impossible to get professionals locally to give up $$$ jobs just to help with my little $ job! Used the Heavy All Purpose mud for my first 2 coats, corner beads, and tape joints. Only tripped onto the Plus 3 because it was the right size and the local box was out of H-AP. Your info has affirmed my accidental choice, and I’m loving the quasi-L4 look I’m getting as my wall portion of this project nears conclusion. Thanks for all you do for us DIY’s! Godspeed, my good Sir!
I like the Plus 3 for texturing and All Purpose for taping/filling. Thank you Kilted Guy for another great video.
Thank God someone finally did a video on the difference between the green and blue buckets.
There's another good all around choice from the big box stores. USG's Total mud, comes in a red box. Has more adhesive than Plus 3 and it's much easier to sand than all purpose mud, but not as easy to sand as Plus 3. I use it a lot, but I think I'll try your suggestion and use Plus 3 for coating then add some wood glue to it for tapping.
Guy, I agree 100 percent with all of your info. I like the plus 3 especially for skip trowel and skimming. And regular All purpose for taping and second coat. When available, I prefer the black lid all purpose by national gypsum company. I've used many pails and boxes of USG though because once upon a time USG was a little less than national gypsum and gold bond. we all have are preference with brands naturally, when available. Thanks 👍
Very informative video. We are remodeling 2 rental properties and drywall is coming up next. This helps in deciding what to get. We have done drywall before and sanding is my least favorite part, though we have learned to use the wet sponge method, which helps cut down on the sanding. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks a lot! This really helped me out! I’ve been looking for a video that explains those two specifically.
Adding wood glue to plus 3 for taping is probably the best tip I have ever gotten. I am just a diy type and now I can just keep one type of mud around and get the rest of my renovation projects done. Thanks!
Glad I found this Have put in the ceiling patch and it is not perfect. Think I left some trash under the furring strip causing the patch to be a little to far in. Very confusing on mud. This is a small task and I now feel the green top general will do ok. Thank you for the lesson. Of course all sanding is too much!
I agree, the green is great for the first 2-3 coats for the adhesion strength. We generally make sure we mud so well that we don't need to sand in-between layers.
We do three layers of green, use the power sander then two layers of blue with a wide yet light skim coat.
Thank you very much for breaking down the two kinds of compound mud! Keep up the great work!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Drywall is an art and you always provide the best instructions and help. Thank you Kilted Guy!
You’re right on !!! Great 👍 info Thanks for sharing your experience.
I've found that plus 3 works good on painted surfaces. It Virtually eliminates bubbles from a reaction with the paint. There's several ways to deal with that issue. You can sand the painted surface before applying mud, this helps. You can also seal the old paint out with a good primer before applying mud, this also helps. Using AP you can put it on, wipe it off tight and reapply the mud which eliminates >90% of this reaction. With plus 3 you can apply it normally and it will still have a reaction, but not as severe as with AP applied without the extra step.
Good to know. I have one room to do where I will need to skim over a painted surface to fix my first (bad) drywall work. This will help.
Yes, that is common problem with most joint compounds.And your correct on the using a sealer to stop that issue.
I was doing a big remodel for the last company I worked for back in the 90's. I had to putty coat over a huge kitchen ceiling that had numerous patches. This was in a 7,000 sq. ft. custom home in one of the high end country clubs around here. At the time, the us guys that work for that company were having a war with the foreman on the brand of compound we were using. He liked Hamilton's (now Wespack) we wanted USG. So here i was, floating this ceiling with Hamilton's "Red DOT" A.P. What a joke. I was bubbling so bad, you could hear the bubbles pop! Just like Rice Krispies. After that, I went to the owner of the company and he told his dufus foreman to get us what we wanted.
We had an issue on another country club that was building 50 condos on a golf course... a nice production job. They were tough units to work on 11 foot tall ceilings through out, 9"-10' everything else, high windows, skylights lots and lots and lots of corner bead and ell metal trim. They paid great, so I made decent money. Tough work. I would string tape with my bazooka, on stilts with a Ames bazooka extension on it. Crazy stuff. I even modified a box handle to make it 8' long to box those tall joints.
Our foreman got a bug up his butt saying that the Plus 3 we were using was causing a reaction with the texture. When, in reality, the problem was Plus 3 doesn't have tint in it usually. So some clown that was working around us was opening up his skim boxes to "bury the tape" causing the joints to crown. So we had to start using Hamilton's Soft Top topping mud to finish over everything for a final coat. So it wouldn't "burn" through the texture. I had a partner at the time working with me... I normally did stuff by myself. We found out pushing that stupid Soft Top through any of the tools was a joke. It drug so bad I thought we were all going to get hernias! The Plus 3 pushes through the tools so easy there's no comparison. We ended up using "sneekely" the Plus 3 tinting it to match the Soft Top. And no one figured out what we were doing. LoL!
Or you can clean the area with trisodium phosphate 1st! Then prime and do your thing
This was very helpful. I had no idea about the differences between products. Good discussion.
Thanks, i don't do it very often but i always got the green bucket for everything. Now im gonna just use it for the taping and first layer, then plus 3 for top coat, ill give it a try ! Doing my kitchen now and have the basement next 😁
I bought one bucket of the green label all purpose and liked it well enough. Then I tried Plus 3 and I never went back to the green label all purpose. Plus 3 is a bit easier to work with and sands better. But I still use the bucket from the green label to mix my Plus 3 in. I just do this on weekends while remodeling my house.
I've been doing this since 1984 and you are spot on with your advice. All purpose green to apply the tape , and plus 3 to coat. I have used topping mud in the past, but only used it for texturing. I've found that the average do it yourselfer will get more blisters by using plus 3 to apply the tape as it takes a light touch to not wipe out too much mud from behind the tape although the wood glue would help cure that problem I'm sure
Will the lightweight wirh wood glue work as well? I am about to do a full tear down to studs and going to try my hand at doing the drywall. Kind of would prefer just one product.
I have stomped painted ceilings in my house and just did the first room to make it smooth. I knocked down the texture with 60 grit first and then used the All purpose on the first coat because I read you need the extra glue going over a painted ceiling. I used the Plus 3 for second coat and it came out great looking, but after watching your video I might switch to Plus 3 for both coats.
Great video, thanks so much. I'm a total newbie to this. I'm currently restoring arched top pocket doors in our 1880s queen anne and dealing with removing wallpaper and the non original trim that hid the pocket doors for decades has left a ton of plaster repairs to be done... as well as learning to properly integrate new drywall with 120 plus has been challenging. These videos are a great asset to the uninitiated. Thanks so much.
Very helpful! This explains a lot of my past experiences in mudding and will help a ton in the future for this weekend warrior type…thx! I never knew before that light weight compound had less glue.
Thank you, happy to help
For general repair I used the plus3 and it worked really well. Thanks.
I agree 100% with the exception that I like to use All-Purpose for many textures.
I'm ready to skim coat and it's back to the big box to get a different kind of mud. I'm afraid to start because if you don't start, you haven't failed, but I've got to finish this. I used the green joint compound on the ceiling the other day, my arm got so exhausted it was shaking and I had to stop for the day.
I'm a handyman/DIYer. I used to use All Purpose (green lid) for everything when I first started. But I quickly learned to use EasySand 20 hot mud for all my prefill, then depending on the size of job/work I will use EasySand 45 or 90 and make it runny for my taping because I'm typically not sanding my tape coat. I finish with Plus3 (or lightweight) mud and add 2-3 beads or passes of wood glue in my pan to my top / finish coat mud. I usually get pretty good results with that.
Does the wood glue in the last coat of plus3 help make it harder (more damage resistant)? Or is it just for bonding?
@@LeverPhile Using glue will help make your mud sticky and add a bit of strength BUT if you're dealing with repairing stress cracks like around corner bead, then remove all loose debris from the affected area and fill the crack with DynaFlex 230. Wait till its dry and sand. Cover with your glue mud, sand and paint.
Do you use the 45 or 90 for the first coat on top of the tape as well?
Thanks for the tips …. I just stared using plus 3 and in my short experience it does feel better and easier to work with ….
I like watching your videos because I like to keep an open mind to new ideas. But mostly you are saying and doing the same things that I have done hundreds of times. I can truly tell that you have been a taping and finishing for a long ass time.
Thanks
I like both products. I power sand most of my work so the all purpose really is all purpose for me. Big jobs its pretty much all I use anymore. Its heavy though. I like blue top but I just have some (maybe irrational?) fear that it wont stick to slick surfaces as well. For those quick one day repairs I typically use 5 min for fill, then 20 min mud with glue added for taping, then skim everything with all purpose and let a fan blast on it for a few hours before sand and prime.
I have done ceilings in my home a few times. One time i decided to try a heavy weight version of the all purpose to cover the texture. It was so hard to sand so i used my power tool and i was like why didn't i ever think of that lol. I think you get a smoother finish hand sanding but the power tool speeds it along. I still havent found the perfect mixture i like, i dont like it too thin for first coat when covering texture
Great informative video, thank you. I’ll try these out side by side and compare the difference on my current project
Straight to the point thanks for sharing your knowledge that’s what I would be using all purpose for taping and plus 3 for finish coats
This helped so much! I am brand new to home repairs and I am removing popcorn ceiling for the first time ever. Glad to know I researched and purchased the Plus 3. Thank you for the info and affirmation that I’m doing something right!
You are so welcome! I teach even more drywall skills tips and tricks in my drywall channel, all in more logical order at www.drywallacademy.com . You can also pick up my free eBook about choosing the right drywall tools and materials at www.drywalltoolsbook.info
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY , thanks and will do!
I pre-fill 1st with 5min.or 20min. hot mud. Then I use All Purpose for my semes, inside corners, and outside corners and texture ceilings. Then I use Plus-3 mud for coating my
3rd, and 4th coating of everything else. Sometime a 5th coating.
Yes it sands up really nice
Home DIYer but come from a trades family and was doing framing and slate roofs by Jr. High (43 now). Personally I use Durabond 45 for holes/patches, taping ect. Easy Sand 90min with 10 to 1 Water/PVA as the liquid for mud framing & skimcoating. Regular Mixed Easysand 90 for 2nd coat then do 3rd/final coat with Plus3 before sanding, prime and paint. I don't mind the harder to sand but then again I only do the occasional remodel help in exchange for beer. If I did it every day I am sure I would feel differently. I might be a little over concerned about durability and adhesion. If you feel that is wrong please let me know, always looking for better options.
Thank you. Really appreciate your comments and knowledge! Direct and to the point video!
Thanks so much Guy!!!! Your videos have been tremendously, helpful!!!
45 minute hot mud for joint filling, mesh tape, and outside corners; USG Sheetrock taping compound for embedding paper tape; USG Sheetrock Plus 3 for 2nd and 3rd coat; and USG Sheetrock topping compound for "last" coat if required.
What exactly do you mean by “joint filling”. Is that not part of taping process?
@@alexrein5838 Prior to taping, any gap that is 1/4" or more, I fill with hot mud because hot mud does not shrink like taping or joint compound. Hot mud dries fast, after which you can put down taping compound and tape without the problems associated with shrinkage or the taping compound not being dry. Joint compounds dry from the outside in and take much longer to dry when they're applied 'thick".
I am not a professional, but I have used both products. I did hear from professionals that if you have steel corner beads, to use the USG All Purpose Green bucket (if u want pre-mixed) and not use the USG Plus 3 Blue bucket. You are right though about adding a little wood glue to the USG Plus 3 Blue bucket which will make taping better. But not sure how the USG Plus 3 Blue bucket would be for steel corner beads.
I've been finishing drywall for almost 49 years now. I use all of the Tape Tech (Ames) taping tools still. Not as much production as I used to do. But I get a whole house of 180- 250 sheets of 4'x12' every month or so. The prices are so cheap because there's too much imported labor running around right now. I can still outperform those guys... at about eight to one. Most of them do not use the tools.
I was taught by some guys that were really pros. I'm talking about two rolls an hour of 500' rolls of tape with a bazooka. No lie. I saw it. There were some legends here in the Coachella Valley. And their work was perfect. My dad started me off in the trade. He didn't start until he was in his early 30s. He always fought the taping tools. He ended up doing pick up in the latter part of his life. He was really good at it.
Yes to the Plus 3! USG brought the company I used to work for the early 80's the first prototype Plus 3 for us to try out. They said if it'll work in the Coachella Valley... it will work anywhere.
And for stringing tape I prefer USG Taping Mud. It really is only good for running through a Bazooka. It has lots of glue, shrinks bad, lots of "sitckhen", lots of open time and is slicker than snot. In fact, when I do any putty coating for smooth wall, it's my go to for the final coat. Just like glass.
Unfortunately, all material yards around here don't stock it anymore. Because I was the only one using it. These geemos out here like Westpac (Hamilton's) joint compound. They have no clue of what works the best. They never have never been taught... so I feel sorry for them. But now I suffer for their ignorance. At east I can still get Plus3.
Plus-3 plus wood glue really works great on the taping coat.
Hey man great video you have a lot of talent to show and appreciate all the knowledge you give us something I would enjoy seeing is a rundown on some hand tools they make so many nowadays it hard to keep up I have a 8 a 10 and a 12 to finish but just like what you use and how you use them thank you man I appreciate all you do and I'm sure many more do god bless you and yours
Thats funny because I shot some very short videos in Lowes today about that tool subject. I'm writing an ebook on the subject and hope to release the full version soon on my website at www.thatkiltedguy.com. You can buy the presale version with about 23 pages now and would get the full version when I finish it.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY that's crazy lol but I'm glad you do that it seems in these days there are so many tools to do one thing and on how to use them are effectively one something takes time to learn them but thank you very much I appreciate it man
What great information I had no clue about the glue situation in the mud Thanks for the information. I use this to make faux brick or stone! Thanks much!
As of now there seems to be supply issues with either All- purpose and Plus 3. I use both the same way you recommend. I have seen jobs show shrinkage on flats from over- thinning mud. This seems to be done by “ high production “ outfits that use boxes and the like.
In commercial work, we use heavy taping for trim, taping like usg taping or weatpac/hamiltons bludot. I prefer beadex light all purpose for finish work or plus3. Also some of the heavy weight topping mud is very slick, just harder to sand, but we use mirka vacuum sanders so it’s not a big deal
Definitely use green for sticking tape.
Mostly use dust control, because clients usually request that, but I usually like to finish with some red all purpose CGC
Yeah. All purpose for taping and Plus 3 the rest of the way. That’s what I learned from all the pro’s on commercial jobs and it works well for me.
Thanks so much for this video… I do a lot of drywall work for a contractor, but I never knew… Took the time… To figure out the differences between the mud. As for your sore shoulder, or any sore muscle, that’s typical of a person who has used the same repetitive motion for decades. It’s muscle memory, what the doctors renamed carpal tunnel. If you want to loosen up your shoulder and get rid of the pain, tight muscles, go to a deep tissue massage therapist… Or get your wife, or girlfriend, or anyone, to put their thumb into your shoulder muscles to find out which ones are painful. Pain equals too tight! If you watch TV and see someone getting strangled, you’ll notice they go limp after a while. So do your muscles! A lack of blood will cause your muscles to relax after 45 seconds. Someone using their thumb on a tight muscle will actually feel it roll out from underneath their thumb. Your brain will try to numb the pain After 15 seconds. The reason I know this is because I was a medically retired railroad engineer with a bad back and partial carpal tunnel in my right arm caused by “nailing” in a new floor by hand and hammer. My back took 15 years of research testing, and trying different ways to fix it naturally because the doctors couldn’t guarantee surgery. For my back hamstrings and in between, I use softballs and baseballs! It took me a couple of months of daily and nightly treating myself before I was able to return to a nearly normal lifestyle with my back.
Try Turmeric for sore joints and shoulders, I have bad shoulders that I believe is torn rotator cuffs, several years back it got so bad I couldn't hold my right hand up over my head, my mother told me she read where Turmeric helps with it so I got some capsules of it and gave it a try, 3 capsules in the morning and 3 in the evening and two weeks later I couldn't believe the difference it made in my shoulders.
In no way shape or form am I telling you it's a cure, but what a difference it made, now I can do things like sand drywall on a ceiling where before something like that was entirely out of the question, I can still "feel" my shoulders if you get what I mean but now they're well with in the limits of being "useable" where before my right shoulder I would always describe to people as being "junk".
Hope if you try it that it helps you, it certainly did turn my life around concerning my shoulders.
All of us who've been in the construction/labor trades for years know or should be quite aware with pain & injuries that come along with it? Even when always practicing safety first on the job, Sh!t Happens! However, don't get it twisted, this isn't an insult or dismissing a helping hand to anothers insight to fix the pain or injury. Yet, as a retired union steward in commercial roads & buildings, I read & understand your solutions were said with cation to answers of the problem that helped you personally overcome some of the pain. Still, practicing in a work safe environment doesn't stop when clocking out on your F/T job, it's a life job! The problem could be easily fixed with heat & ice, aspirin, Turmeric, or a shot & a beer to reduce the pain. Although, shoulder injury & pain risk factors could also be caused by Cartilage tear, Rotator cuff tear, Frozen shoulder, Impingement, Bursitis, Osteoarthritis, Rheumatoid arthritis, Tendinitis, Bone spurs. Also, if your shoulder hurts it's 1 of the related signs especially the older we get in Heart attacks. Thoughts for concern are commendable, yet sometimes possibly unsafe if injury is taken lightly, when the majority of us in the labor force have this tough guy & girl mindset, to either ignore it, work it out exercising with more work, an aspirin or whatever. Just saying... there's reasons we do what we do, & reason for doctors, injuries aren't always the same common cause in everybody, that's all. I say this from first hand experience with fellow workers who ignored or took the word of his buddy at the lunch table as the answer, which related to far worse consequences. So, be safe & responsible!
Very informative! I'm building my own house and have been laboring away with the USG All Purpose, trying to get it perfectly flat for wallpaper. I'll try a final coat with the USG Plus 3 and see if that speeds it up.
The resistance to damage is a bit concerning, but the sizing and wallpaper might help with that.
Thank you! Good knowledge from the veterans!
I like 20 minute or 45 for a filler coat if the installation is rough or uneven studs, all purpose if it’s new construction or an addition in tape, followed by plus 3 once my joint is built properly. Just depends on the iob
I've done quite a few drywall projects over the years, but got into it more heavily recently. The last time I used plus 3 for taping the seams cracked, because like you said, it doesn't have as much adhesive. After that, I've done all my taping with durabond 90. That's a much stronger bond, and then I do the topping with plus 3. I've never used the all purpose mud you recommended, but I would definitely be willing to give it a shot. Durabond is not very convenient to work with.
Thanks Guy!Green Box All-pupose is harder to sand and has more adhesive, but good for tape.
Green for base coat and taping, or if there’s a big float I need to do, then Plus 3 for finish coats.
Thanks for the tips!
Absolutely awesome. Thanks so much.
I usually use for under tape durabond 45 because dries harder and looks more strong on cracks, and as a topcoat I use plus3 because is easier to sand
I use all purpose for tapping and the ultra light lime green in the box for finish coat.. it makes the best finish at the end..
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. It truly helps DIYers like myself.
You are so welcome!
Hello from Edmonton Canda! Appreciate your work some of the products are different up here even though we have similar stores like Home Depot but I get the idea, have a great day.
Thanks for sharing. I’ve been working on every step of my basement from scratch with no experience other then forums and UA-cam and it’s coming out great. Now I’m at the tape and mud stage which kinda has me nervous but narrowing down the types of muds to use and your video helped out a lot! I just don’t know if I should get the stuff in a box to mix yourself or the pre mixed same stuff in the buckets. Not sure the difference
They’re the same
All purpose is taping mud. Plus 3 is filling and skimming mud. 5 minute and dry mix are great over mesh. Like kilted guy..great info
that was clear and concise. thank you.
Love your videos! Thank you!!
i've been finishing drywall for 20+ years and through the years i've tried many products. i personally don't care for any of the USG products. especially the lightweight stuff. yes it sands easy but it also leaves scratches from sanding. i've been using pro form for the past ten years and love the stuff. their black lid bucket mud is a great all around mud and their fast setting muds are far superior to USG's.
Use GP for taping, patching etc.
Use +3 for skim coating.
Correct?
We did a habitat for humanity house one time and ,all they gave us was green lid mud shown here , and the volunteer rockers used these super thick gauge drywall screws that were 2 inches long , talk about erasing 5 years of your career , between ruining my wrist trying to turn in screws and sanding that green stuff . I was very close to giving up . but i really like the brown box taping light for taping and any brand lightweight for coating .
I'm looking for a super luxurious finishing mud, on plaster fix-ups. No drywall or taping here. An expensive, professional contractor once recommended Muralo Spackle for skim finishing, and I fell in love with that pre-mixed product. Smooth as silk, white as snow, tooled like French butter, and very little sanding needed after it dried. I got glass-like surfaces on pre-war plaster walls with Muralo. Sadly, they don't make it anymore. Died just prior to Covid. I'm wondering if Plus 3 might be similar to Muralo. Can anyone make recommendations please?
I've used the Plus-3 for a lot of skimming and finishing and I loved it! So easy to work with that it saves a ton of time. But, I figured out that it also scratches and dents really easily even after painted. I can take my fingernail and put a scratch in it. Now I've been experimenting with the All Purpose for the last coat. I'm working on my own home and rentals we own so not much volume. So far, I like the hardness of the All Purpose finish but boy do I miss the easy sanding
Parasite: I was actually wondering about that. Typically I don’t have a real purpose for totally smooth walls; I prefer even some subtle texture. I was sort of wondering if I watered down All Purpose mud, spread it THIN, then textured it ( aka skip trowel /Sante Fe-ish, with lots of flat areas already)…..would a last light sanding still be hard to do?
I am doing a bunch of repairs all over my house including patch, new drywall and all with texture. I have noticed the evaporative muds from buckets and boxes are all a little easy to dent or scratch. But one thing I have found to help with that is to use a sealer, I ended up going with Gardz. After using 2 coats of sealer drywall paints much nicer and is much much harder.
I have reached the same conclusion. If it's your own home, all purpose is the way to go for its durability.
I think if you use an acrylic primer on top of the skim coat it will harden it right up.
I tape with all purpose, then embed the tape with a second coat. Then switch to light weight joint compound or topping to finish with 1 - 2 coats.
Great advice, in my opinion. Thank you.
Ty sir. I have always used all purpose. I’ll change that from now on. Ty
I was walking by a residential construction site today and saw containers of All-Purpose and Plus 3 joint compound, wondering what the differences are. You have explained it very well. Thank you.
You made a comment about adding wood glue to Plus 3 that would make it more like All-Purpose. During mu home build I saw the drywall guy mix clear Dawn dish detergent into the mud.
Is this a good idea?
DIY/homeowner here - I used All Purpose (usg, dark green lid) for 1st coat when skim coating a sanded popcorn ceiling. Used lightweight (usg, bright green lid) for 2nd coat and touch ups. The lightweight is SUPER easy to sand, almost too easy. I bought and used an inexpensive Wen drywall sander, and I had to be careful not to gouge the light, topcoat. If I had it to do over again, I would try the Plus 3 (usg, blue lid) for my topcoat, mainly because I was using a power sander, and (as a beginner) I'm prone to make mistakes with the sander. However, if I were hand sanding a large area, then I would consider the lightweight for my final coat because it's sooo much easier to sand than the all purpose (usg, dark green lid). Question: could one use hot mud for the first coat of a skim-coat job if one applies the hot mud at the minimum recommended thickness (1/8th inch)?
Yes. It’s VERY difficult to sand though
For patches I use 5 min (occasionally I use 45) for the first coat. For bigger jobs I use AP for the first coat. Either way I finish with light weight. Thanks for the vid
Thank you. Came across this just in time !. Drywallers on the job gave me a bucket of all purpose which I have started using on the taping and butt joints, screws, so just on the first coat. I will pick me up a bucket of plus 3 to finish and sand. The walls are getting papered in my construction of a 1900's era billiards room so I am glad I found this before tackling ceiling. Should I just add some wood glue to type 3? No butt joints and even the seams get covered with oak to make a tray ceiling but want to do it right
+3 actually has plenty of adhesion without the glue for normal applications
Green for 1st coat, blue for finish coats
Quickset for first coat green for finish
@@mandujanojuan437 yes i think i confused the two
@@brandonterzic no you didn't i just commented the way i do it
Whatever works for you brother. Take care
@@mandujanojuan437 thanks for sharing bro. Have a good day
Same 🤘😎🤘
Thx for the information. Will go try it now.
And yessss this is the ONLY way to cover walls that were painted with texture and patterns. Let me tell ya….. What a freaken job, when you tried everything else suggested, then find this video …..when I was nearly hopeless. Thank you so much, and today will complete the walls. God bless and I have now subscribed to your channel.
I'm walking into an empty home next Monday that will be all mine.......yes, I have nightmares about taking care of the walls before painting. I will use a duster to get rid of all the cob webs, wash the walls, then begin. A senior lived in the home before and I will remove a lot of handles that were installed for safety and some have come off the wall and have left holes, so what do I use for that. Then the picture nail holes, do I use something different. I will purchase a small, six and ten inch trowls. Put the mud on with the small or six inch and finish with the ten. This will be a long slow process for me.
All purpose for taping .Then easy sand with fiber 2 coats.Then Rapid coat for skimming and angles.30yrs experience
Watching this guys like watching TV news, you get the information you want, but it's always right after this or let me tell you how this is done but first let me tell you about...
Thank you for your video. I just bought All Purpose (green one), but I did not use it yesterday because I have a different brand.
I always used topping to do design work like matching plaster ceilings with fine silica sand. Love your videos a lot of very good intel for pros as well as beginners!
This is so very helpful..TKG does it again!
Great video, thank you!
Hi. So glad I found your channel! Very helpful. I want to get rid of the ugly texture on my walls to baby butt smooth. (The type of texture that is applied with a machine) Can you do a video on how to skim coat rounded drywall corners and do a good job where the wall meets the ceiling? Thanks again!
This playlist should help. Skim Coating Walls & Ceilings ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEn0VW1xVLpJ_yLO3yPQKDJA.html
Thanks for the tip I didn’t know it
Thanks for the information!
You bet!
If you install a sheet of Saran Wrap over the mud and press it firmly in place so that air can’t get to it it should last longer.
great info !!!!! Thank You Very Much!!!!
I know you must be sick of me asking you questions but you keep giving me great help and advice. Ok I get your point in this video. You mentioned not for corner beads.... What should one use for it?
Usg plus 3
Good explain from the real experienced thanks guy. Now on a new install or patching job will type 3 or all purpose bond good long term when you used mesh tape and hot mud for the repairs or installs? I have a ceiling coming up and I'm thinking to just mesh tape and hot mud it all, then float either type 3 or all purpose for the final coat its basically level 5 texture with the occasional line in it as part of the texture they did on these real expensive house.
I’m from California and I love using red dot 🔴 joint compound . Ver great product
I use the plus 3 for alllll my second coats, right after either 20 or 45 min hot mud. Works amazing for me and I’ve been very happy with my results during work
Thank you for the info
That's all I use. Tape with all purpose. 2 coats of Plus 3 and texture with all purpose.