You helped me out today, thanks. That bottom passenger side bolt on the fan, and the fan wiring connection was the biggest pain. Anyone who can still get around before changing, buy the tools you need. Long reach socket wrench, breaker bar, and perhaps the long needle nose pliers referenced in video. I had none of these and had to get creative. Would have probably saved me 2 plus hours having these tools, ugh.
Thanks so much for posting this. Doing a video is a PITA. Dealer just quoted me $670 for a new alternator. I'll give it my best shot before I cave in to that kind of extortion.
Thank you for this video, it, in my opinion, is the best resource I could find for doing this job, with just an internet search. I found getting the two bolts on the bottom of the radiator loose, the most time-consuming part, and on my 2009 I had to do it from under the car. This meant taking off a bunch of plastic bumper clips to get between the bumper and the rock guard to access the two bolts. While I had the rock guard down and I was down there working, I took off the electrical connector for the fan because it was easier to press the clip and pull down, then pressing the clip and pulling up which dislodges it from the clips metal fastener on the fan itself and gets annoying. My alternator wasn't too much wider than the existing forked opening and between a dead blow hammer and c-clamp I squeezed it in and then with then bolt in the hole I wiggled and smacked the alternator till I got it aligned and it went thru completely. I did use my smartphone once to see if the bolt was coming in straight at the other side of the hole under the engine by filming a video with the flash on, worked great thanks to whoever made that suggestion in the comments. Also, I drilled out any bumper clips that were being troublesome and bought a pack of extras, I know to well the time that can be wasted trying to get corroded clips out, cut my time down a lot. I did this job in 6 hours time including taking the time to clean all the parts I removed and the engine bay when I was done, I am not a mechanic but good at taking instructions and turning a wrench.
This was a big PITA! Thanks for the video everything you said was correct. Although I used a big C clamp to compress the alternator and it did not work. I ended up just using a pry bar to pry the opening where the alternator mounts to the engine in order to gain fraction of mm to get the alternator in. Aligning the holes was really very difficult. I used a cell phone to record a video of the mounting holes to gauge how far off the alignment of the holes were.
Thanks a lot for this! It really helped! I've just done this on a 2009 Accord EX and the only difference is that I had to remove front bumper in order to be able to get to the bolts at the bottom of the radiator fan and remove the fan completely. The was just no way to get to them from the top and there wasn't room to get the original out with the fan in place. Removing the bumper is easy - 2 self tapping screws in the wheel wells and 7 of the trim clips underneath.
Great tips,Thanks Jacob.To avoid possible damage to the alternator case .You do not need to compress the alternator in a vise,once the alternator is out ,tap the outer bushing on the alternator mounting bracket. ,this is where the lower alternator bolt goes through the bracket. The lower alternator bolt hole has a sliding bushing ,sleeve in the alternator bracket,.Gently tap the lower bushing toward the passenger wheel and tire about .,you don't need any excessive force,as it easily slides over with light taps [lubricate if needed ] given the alternator space to slide in.Were only talking about .060 or so movement,no need to get crazy.Should take all of 30 seconds.Be gentle !!! Also once the alternator is out,place the new belt in position.Do not use old belt.Make sure battery is not connected when replacing alternator and do clean the terminals and cable ends .You should also clean the battery with hot water,baking soda if its excessively dirty as it can leak voltage across the top.Put voltmeter to negative terminal and top of case,you should not see any voltage on DCV setting,if you do,clean battery,and check for any cracks,etc Hope this helps.
Godscountry. The sleeve is in the way of me removing the old alternator. I have no idea how to move the sleeve out of the way with the old alternator still in place.
Your not pushing it out,your just sliding it over,so the new alternator fits in the opening in the alternator bracket . Using a long socket extension,tap it towards the drive belts,just enough to slide the new alternator in.A few mm's ....the bushing is on the alternator bracket on the motor,just lightly tap it with a long socket extension[harbor freight,sears,etc ] Look at how the alternator sits on the bracket,that bushing needs to be tapped a a few mm's towards the drive belts,motor,mount.Its a sliding bushing.Don't take it out,just push it over.Put a little lube spray,it should move easily.A couple light taps,should give you plenty of room.
Good vid... thanks for making the time. I removed/replaced my alternator in my 2008 HON_ACCD V6-3.5 after taking off the mounting screws the belt slip right off and the alternator came out without incident. Be Blessed Jacob
Alternator went out at 128k miles. This method worked on the same exact car. The Autozone alternator was slightly wider on the large bolt and was hard to fit in. Had to use a clamp to make the alternator smaller in order for it to fit. The autozone cable connector didn't really fit into the alternator either but it could be forced in. The compressor cable ties into the alternator and the autozone alternator doesnt have a slot for the cable so I left the cable hanging. Recommend getting the OEM Denso Alternator. The radiator fan connector was quite hard to disconnect. Overall easy job.Thanks for putting this together.
Jake, Excellent after the fact video and audio. I have a 2011 Accord V6 and after removing the lower shrouds (in frustration) I figured I check the internet. Great tips especially at the end with the vice!!! after looking at the some of the helpful comments, I'm going to take my time with this one.
Just changed out mine this morning. Watched this video and took some notes. Less than 3 hour turnaround. I tried doing it without moving the fan because the bolts on the bottom are a pain to get to, but I had to take it out anyway. Great video and info. Saved me a lot of time. Kudos for the socket sizes.
Now I don't feel so bad. In 2018, I changed my alternator on my 2009 Honda Accord EX-V6. I kept using breaker bar clockwise to move tensioner pulley. Eventually I figured it out. Well, the next day, 30 miles from home, that tensioner pulley assembly broke. The metal had been weakened. $200.00 tow back home, + $800 in labor costs to extract the broken bolt and install new tensioner pulley assembly.
So this vid is good one of the best I found but some advice. He doesn’t mention that this tension bolt is for an Automatic 19mm apparently 14mm for a manual. I would also recommend renting a special tension tool from autozone in my area they basically lend it for free with a deposit. Also note that the tension is due to hydraulic fluid so slow constant pressure is key for it to release the tension. Last thing you really have to jack up the passenger side and unbutton the mud flap to get to the bottom fan screws, and the one closer to the center is going to require a wrench 10mm no way I could get a ratchet in there. Good luck! Mines a 2010 Accord V6, not sure if he mentions it but pulling the power steering fluid and coolant tanks up helps with clearance.
My son has a '12 with V6 and automatic. The tensioner bolt was 14mm. Seems as though Honda has changed this back and forth because I've seen different sizes mentioned....
Thanks for the post. It was spot on. I didn't take the radiator brackets off initially, thinking it wasn't necessary. I was wrong! I needed every mm of clearance available. BTW, the original alternator mount measured 45.5mm wide. The new one measured 45.75mm. I tried using a C-clamp (no vice available) to squeeze the mount to that dimension. Couldn't do it. I wound up filing the press fit sleeve instead. An inspection mirror helped aligning the mount to the fork on the engine. Thanks again.
Richard,I'm to late,but you only need to tap bushing over with light force. as the alternator lower hole bracket.has sliding bushing,sleeve]comment above explains how simple it is to move..Next time.
One thing I would add. Mine is a 2010 Accord Crosstour. The vice didn't work for me, but I found that the fork to hold the bottom of the alternator has a little sleeve that you can push out to give you room to insert it. It tightens down as you tighten the bolt. Oh, and be sure you disconnect the battery before working on it. 😉
slide it out ,its snug.and before you put the new one in just lightly tap the sleeve on the alternator bracket with a long extension [on engine ] over,do not compress the alternator in a vice NO NEVER!!!! tapping the sleeve over allows you to slide the new alternator in easily
I thought it was too much also until I went out and started. You have to move the fan assembly out of the way to get alternator out. Hardest part is undoing clips under the car to access lower bolts on the fan.
Just did this today on my 2008 accord v6. Very straight forward.. Took maybe 2hrs. Just pop out the plastic clips(have backups) and pray your bottom fan bolts arent as rusted as mine were. Had to get one off with gigantic vice grips. After thats out its super easy. As for the big alternator mount not fitting... My new one had the same problem.... Too big by maybe 1/16 of an inch. I just took an angle grinder and made 2 light passes on the silver bushing on the new alternator, on each side. Nothing crazy. Then it slid right in.
Thank you for "paying it forward" sir. I'm no mechanic by anyone's imagination but I also didn't have the $$ the shop wanted to replace the alternator on my car car. What I do have is time. The toughest part for me was the fan's electrical connection. It all ended well thanks to your instructions!
There is a bushing on the under side of the alternator that is holding the old one in place. How do you get that out or moved into a position to where you can get the alternator out.
We can't get the fan assembly to pull out. 2011 Honda Crosstour ex. Having a very hard time trying to get the darn alternator out. Even tried dissembling the alternator while in the engine compartment. Good video. But would have helped if you demonstrated fan assembly removal. When I pull up on it after removing the two top screws, it still pulls the entire radiator up and just won't come loose.
Great video, just did this today on my 2011 Accord V6. Toughest part was the electrical connection on the fan. I bought a set of long pliers and they helped big time for that part.
@@tommyschroer6170 I had the same oil leak issue. Honda won't sell the gaskets, only the whole spool assembly. Bought $8 gaskets off Ebay, took 10 mins to change, has been working fine.
@@tommyschroer6170 Yeah I am just interested to see how they hold up. The Ebay ones are "Honda Japan" (Yeah right, prob same as amazon). If they go a year or more I'd say it's worth.
Hey Mr.Lahmann I was working on my alternator got on there no problem thanks to you, but when putting the belt back on the breaker bar snap the bolt part of the tensioner into the ratchet. I was going the correct way as you state it in your video, the tensioner would still work I just have nothing to ratchet to. Would you be able to tell me how I can find that part and or how to to replace it, thank you for your video And help
Jack thanks for the video. I'm using a 4" bench vice. I'm attempting to make the gap smaller where the bottom of the alternator mounts to the engine block. All I am doing is bending my bench vise. Any suggestions?? Thanks.
I have a small problem. The tensioner bolt on my 09 accord is slightly stripped & I need to change the alternator. Is it possible to use the bolt at the bottom of the tensioner pulley system to release the belt? The bolts look exactly the same. I am hoping someone can say yes to this. My car has dryer up all my fund’s already. I do not have the money to replace that part of the system right now.
Step 1: First find and Fix the leak that allowed oil to run into into the alternator causing it fail. Start with the spool valve gaskets , then check the valve cover gaskets.
video would be a lot more effective if job was actually done. Removing the bottom fan bolts (hardest part) is glazed over. Need to jack up the car, remove fender clip. The fan electrical connector is also easier to get hwen you're under the car (huge pain regardless).
Very true I had my hands tide with this job . About 2 years ago now I got to put one on again and I don't want to mess with it I need to save money but don't want the headache at all . Well the moral of the story is take your time and take pictures 📷 or video 📹 before you take it apart so you can know how to put it back. Thats just my two cents
I have seen 3 versions.... this one, where he is loosening the radiator.... I guess he did, but we never saw. #2 is a dude that removed the fan and shround.... seemed easy enough. And the 1st vid I saw the guy did not remove anything extra. It took some wiggling, but he got the ALT out.
So I went to loosen the bolt tensioner, pushing it towards the passenger seat and it snapped off. What is the best way now to get the belt off the alternator?
Would figure that Honda would put their alternator in an area that's hard to get to. I'm getting the alternator replaced on my 2010 v6 EX-L Accord by a foreign auto mechanic right now
For sure! In retrospect, I wish I would have filmed the entire process. It was so difficult to do, that it only occurred after I finished that I should publish something to help folks out. So if you can make a better one, I'm sure folks would greatly appreciate it.
@@samuelsholder2789 Yup...2012 Honda Accord V6 EX-L....Honda service department here in central Florida quoted me $734 for the alternator and $165 for the labor......$996 out the door. That is insane! Think I'm going to tackle the job myself. Thanks guys.
Thanks and I fully agree. It was one of those jobs that was so hard for me, that after I did it....I figured I better help make it a little easier for somebody else.
Just gonna throw this out there but, it would really be great if you did your video while you were actually doing the work rather than trying to explain what you did. Some helpful info here but not enough.
You helped me out today, thanks. That bottom passenger side bolt on the fan, and the fan wiring connection was the biggest pain. Anyone who can still get around before changing, buy the tools you need. Long reach socket wrench, breaker bar, and perhaps the long needle nose pliers referenced in video. I had none of these and had to get creative. Would have probably saved me 2 plus hours having these tools, ugh.
Thanks so much for posting this. Doing a video is a PITA. Dealer just quoted me $670 for a new alternator. I'll give it my best shot before I cave in to that kind of extortion.
Thank you for this video, it, in my opinion, is the best resource I could find for doing this job, with just an internet search. I found getting the two bolts on the bottom of the radiator loose, the most time-consuming part, and on my 2009 I had to do it from under the car. This meant taking off a bunch of plastic bumper clips to get between the bumper and the rock guard to access the two bolts. While I had the rock guard down and I was down there working, I took off the electrical connector for the fan because it was easier to press the clip and pull down, then pressing the clip and pulling up which dislodges it from the clips metal fastener on the fan itself and gets annoying. My alternator wasn't too much wider than the existing forked opening and between a dead blow hammer and c-clamp I squeezed it in and then with then bolt in the hole I wiggled and smacked the alternator till I got it aligned and it went thru completely. I did use my smartphone once to see if the bolt was coming in straight at the other side of the hole under the engine by filming a video with the flash on, worked great thanks to whoever made that suggestion in the comments. Also, I drilled out any bumper clips that were being troublesome and bought a pack of extras, I know to well the time that can be wasted trying to get corroded clips out, cut my time down a lot. I did this job in 6 hours time including taking the time to clean all the parts I removed and the engine bay when I was done, I am not a mechanic but good at taking instructions and turning a wrench.
This was a big PITA! Thanks for the video everything you said was correct. Although I used a big C clamp to compress the alternator and it did not work. I ended up just using a pry bar to pry the opening where the alternator mounts to the engine in order to gain fraction of mm to get the alternator in. Aligning the holes was really very difficult. I used a cell phone to record a video of the mounting holes to gauge how far off the alignment of the holes were.
Thanks for "paying it forward." Very helpful information.
Thanks a lot for this! It really helped!
I've just done this on a 2009 Accord EX and the only difference is that I had to remove front bumper in order to be able to get to the bolts at the bottom of the radiator fan and remove the fan completely. The was just no way to get to them from the top and there wasn't room to get the original out with the fan in place.
Removing the bumper is easy - 2 self tapping screws in the wheel wells and 7 of the trim clips underneath.
Oh, and for aligning the alternator with the bolt hole in the fork I used a cheap inspection camera. Made it dead easy.
great information & valuable tip with the tensioner!! thank you very much.
Perfect video for 08-09 accord alternator diy. A++
Question , what type of alternator did you use ?
Thank you so much for your "paying it forward" video
Great video. Thanks for putting this together. It was very helpful!
Great tips,Thanks Jacob.To avoid possible damage to the alternator case .You do not need to compress the alternator in a vise,once the alternator is out ,tap the outer bushing on the alternator mounting bracket. ,this is where the lower alternator bolt goes through the bracket. The lower alternator bolt hole has a sliding bushing ,sleeve in the alternator bracket,.Gently tap the lower bushing toward the passenger wheel and tire about .,you don't need any excessive force,as it easily slides over with light taps [lubricate if needed ] given the alternator space to slide in.Were only talking about .060 or so movement,no need to get crazy.Should take all of 30 seconds.Be gentle !!!
Also once the alternator is out,place the new belt in position.Do not use old belt.Make sure battery is not connected when replacing alternator and do clean the terminals and cable ends .You should also clean the battery with hot water,baking soda if its excessively dirty as it can leak voltage across the top.Put voltmeter to negative terminal and top of case,you should not see any voltage on DCV setting,if you do,clean battery,and check for any cracks,etc Hope this helps.
How did you push out the bushing? Having problems with this step.
The bushing is keeping the old alternator from coming out
Godscountry. The sleeve is in the way of me removing the old alternator. I have no idea how to move the sleeve out of the way with the old alternator still in place.
Your not pushing it out,your just sliding it over,so the new alternator fits in the opening in the alternator bracket . Using a long socket extension,tap it towards the drive belts,just enough to slide the new alternator in.A few mm's ....the bushing is on the alternator bracket on the motor,just lightly tap it with a long socket extension[harbor freight,sears,etc ] Look at how the alternator sits on the bracket,that bushing needs to be tapped a a few mm's towards the drive belts,motor,mount.Its a sliding bushing.Don't take it out,just push it over.Put a little lube spray,it should move easily.A couple light taps,should give you plenty of room.
Thank you very much. That is a well done video.
Lots of information in a very simple way.
Highly appreciated.
Giving you a thumbs up and saying great advice on the Chilton's or Haynes manuals. Thanks for the video, helped me out of a pickle.
Good vid... thanks for making the time. I removed/replaced my alternator in my 2008 HON_ACCD V6-3.5 after taking off the mounting screws the belt slip right off and the alternator came out without incident. Be Blessed Jacob
Alternator went out at 128k miles. This method worked on the same exact car. The Autozone alternator was slightly wider on the large bolt and was hard to fit in. Had to use a clamp to make the alternator smaller in order for it to fit. The autozone cable connector didn't really fit into the alternator either but it could be forced in. The compressor cable ties into the alternator and the autozone alternator doesnt have a slot for the cable so I left the cable hanging. Recommend getting the OEM Denso Alternator. The radiator fan connector was quite hard to disconnect. Overall easy job.Thanks for putting this together.
Aaron Cheee did you get the duralast gold alternator ?
flash and zoom yes
Aaron Cheee was it for the automatic ?
i just bought one but, waiting for it to ship now am just afraid that the manuel and automatic are different .
flash and zoom yes
A big thank you, Mr. Lahmann!!! Your Video was a big help.
you're making a difference, thanks
Jake, Excellent after the fact video and audio. I have a 2011 Accord V6 and after removing the lower shrouds (in frustration) I figured I check the internet. Great tips especially at the end with the vice!!! after looking at the some of the helpful comments, I'm going to take my time with this one.
Just changed out mine this morning. Watched this video and took some notes. Less than 3 hour turnaround. I tried doing it without moving the fan because the bolts on the bottom are a pain to get to, but I had to take it out anyway. Great video and info. Saved me a lot of time. Kudos for the socket sizes.
Thanks for the help, going to tackle it today.
Now I don't feel so bad. In 2018, I changed my alternator on my 2009 Honda Accord EX-V6. I kept using breaker bar clockwise to move tensioner pulley. Eventually I figured it out. Well, the next day, 30 miles from home, that tensioner pulley assembly broke. The metal had been weakened. $200.00 tow back home, + $800 in labor costs to extract the broken bolt and install new tensioner pulley assembly.
needed to figure out the tentioner thanks
Thank you just been very helpful and may God bless you as well and may God bless the world
Awesome, thanks a million
So this vid is good one of the best I found but some advice. He doesn’t mention that this tension bolt is for an Automatic 19mm apparently 14mm for a manual. I would also recommend renting a special tension tool from autozone in my area they basically lend it for free with a deposit. Also note that the tension is due to hydraulic fluid so slow constant pressure is key for it to release the tension. Last thing you really have to jack up the passenger side and unbutton the mud flap to get to the bottom fan screws, and the one closer to the center is going to require a wrench 10mm no way I could get a ratchet in there. Good luck! Mines a 2010 Accord V6, not sure if he mentions it but pulling the power steering fluid and coolant tanks up helps with clearance.
My son has a '12 with V6 and automatic. The tensioner bolt was 14mm. Seems as though Honda has changed this back and forth because I've seen different sizes mentioned....
He clearly states it is an after market tensioner
Thanks sir I am change my car alternator and I am follow you and I change it without mistake thanks for uploading this video
Excellent video...thank you!
Thank you very much for taking your time to put this out here. I really didn't know how I was going to get that thing out.
Thanks for the post. It was spot on. I didn't take the radiator brackets off initially, thinking it wasn't necessary. I was wrong! I needed every mm of clearance available. BTW, the original alternator mount measured 45.5mm wide. The new one measured 45.75mm. I tried using a C-clamp (no vice available) to squeeze the mount to that dimension. Couldn't do it. I wound up filing the press fit sleeve instead. An inspection mirror helped aligning the mount to the fork on the engine. Thanks again.
Richard,I'm to late,but you only need to tap bushing over with light force. as the alternator lower hole bracket.has sliding bushing,sleeve]comment above explains how simple it is to move..Next time.
Great video!! Thanks!
One thing I would add. Mine is a 2010 Accord Crosstour. The vice didn't work for me, but I found that the fork to hold the bottom of the alternator has a little sleeve that you can push out to give you room to insert it. It tightens down as you tighten the bolt.
Oh, and be sure you disconnect the battery before working on it. 😉
Much safer and a lot easier than trying to compress the alternator ear..
how did you push the sleeve out?
How did you move the sleeve to get the alternator out?
slide it out ,its snug.and before you put the new one in just lightly tap the sleeve on the alternator bracket with a long extension [on engine ] over,do not compress the alternator in a vice NO NEVER!!!! tapping the sleeve over allows you to slide the new alternator in easily
wiggle the alternator,a screw driver helps pry it forward towards front of car, slide it towards radiator,don't damage the radiator
Great video. I broke my tensioner bolt off also. How did you replace that?
I thought it was too much also until I went out and started. You have to move the fan assembly out of the way to get alternator out. Hardest part is undoing clips under the car to access lower bolts on the fan.
Just did this today on my 2008 accord v6. Very straight forward.. Took maybe 2hrs. Just pop out the plastic clips(have backups) and pray your bottom fan bolts arent as rusted as mine were. Had to get one off with gigantic vice grips. After thats out its super easy. As for the big alternator mount not fitting... My new one had the same problem.... Too big by maybe 1/16 of an inch. I just took an angle grinder and made 2 light passes on the silver bushing on the new alternator, on each side. Nothing crazy. Then it slid right in.
Thank you for "paying it forward" sir. I'm no mechanic by anyone's imagination but I also didn't have the $$ the shop wanted to replace the alternator on my car car. What I do have is time. The toughest part for me was the fan's electrical connection. It all ended well thanks to your instructions!
R Mont same here...fan connector was the worst part!
Great video; very helpful. Thanks for posting. I used the video twice as my replacement alternator went bad after about a year.
There is a bushing on the under side of the alternator that is holding the old one in place. How do you get that out or moved into a position to where you can get the alternator out.
We can't get the fan assembly to pull out. 2011 Honda Crosstour ex. Having a very hard time trying to get the darn alternator out. Even tried dissembling the alternator while in the engine compartment. Good video. But would have helped if you demonstrated fan assembly removal. When I pull up on it after removing the two top screws, it still pulls the entire radiator up and just won't come loose.
Thank you sir
Is it difficult to put the belt back on? I need to change mine. Started to squeak when it’s cold. Thanks!
YOU ARE THE ULTIMATE BLESSING VERY HELPFUL THANK YOU SO MUCH
Great video, just did this today on my 2011 Accord V6. Toughest part was the electrical connection on the fan. I bought a set of long pliers and they helped big time for that part.
Thank You, Thank you, Thank you!!!!
Thanks so much for this video. Would not have known to remove the fan shroud until I got there. It has to be removed.
Thank you! I'm glad to hear it helped!
@@jacoblahmann2359 now to fix the oil leak above it that caused the alternator to go bad. Looking like the vtec solenoid gasket.
@@tommyschroer6170 I had the same oil leak issue. Honda won't sell the gaskets, only the whole spool assembly. Bought $8 gaskets off Ebay, took 10 mins to change, has been working fine.
@@samuelsholder2789 yep. I bought them on Amazon so they would ship faster. 12 bucks. Saved me a couple hundred.
@@tommyschroer6170 Yeah I am just interested to see how they hold up. The Ebay ones are "Honda Japan" (Yeah right, prob same as amazon). If they go a year or more I'd say it's worth.
Hey Mr.Lahmann I was working on my alternator got on there no problem thanks to you, but when putting the belt back on the breaker bar snap the bolt part of the tensioner into the ratchet. I was going the correct way as you state it in your video, the tensioner would still work I just have nothing to ratchet to. Would you be able to tell me how I can find that part and or how to to replace it, thank you for your video And help
You have to buy a new tensioner... also, you should use lubricant to aid in the pivoting of the tensioner or it will break.
Jack thanks for the video. I'm using a 4" bench vice. I'm attempting to make the gap smaller where the bottom of the alternator mounts to the engine block. All I am doing is bending my bench vise. Any suggestions?? Thanks.
gary darden, hello sir! I'm sure how you're using the vice, but it shouldn't take that much torque to size up the alternator.
Thank you, made the job a breeze!
I have a small problem. The tensioner bolt on my 09 accord is slightly stripped & I need to change the alternator. Is it possible to use the bolt at the bottom of the tensioner pulley system to release the belt? The bolts look exactly the same. I am hoping someone can say yes to this. My car has dryer up all my fund’s already. I do not have the money to replace that part of the system right now.
Thank you.
Step 1: First find and Fix the leak that allowed oil to run into into the alternator causing it fail. Start with the spool valve gaskets , then check the valve cover gaskets.
Will this work for my 2.4 motor I have a 2009 ex
video would be a lot more effective if job was actually done. Removing the bottom fan bolts (hardest part) is glazed over. Need to jack up the car, remove fender clip. The fan electrical connector is also easier to get hwen you're under the car (huge pain regardless).
Very true I had my hands tide with this job . About 2 years ago now I got to put one on again and I don't want to mess with it I need to save money but don't want the headache at all . Well the moral of the story is take your time and take pictures 📷 or video 📹 before you take it apart so you can know how to put it back. Thats just my two cents
I have seen 3 versions.... this one, where he is loosening the radiator.... I guess he did, but we never saw. #2 is a dude that removed the fan and shround.... seemed easy enough. And the 1st vid I saw the guy did not remove anything extra. It took some wiggling, but he got the ALT out.
Im gonna get my alternator in two days. Let me kbow your here for any questions that may arise
So I went to loosen the bolt tensioner, pushing it towards the passenger seat and it snapped off. What is the best way now to get the belt off the alternator?
Great question. I'm in that situation now.
I wish you would have shown the process step by step. Or at least shown how you unclipped the electrical Line from the fan
How on earth did you get to the screws at the bottom of the fan motor?! Did you remove the skid plate?
yes,
Nothing changed between the 2008 and 2010 model years, correct?
Max Burcham nope 2008-2012 all the same
Thanks
Roughly, how long should this job take?
took me 3 hours and i am a novice
Would figure that Honda would put their alternator in an area that's hard to get to. I'm getting the alternator replaced on my 2010 v6 EX-L Accord by a foreign auto mechanic right now
Should I make a video of me taking my alternator out
For sure! In retrospect, I wish I would have filmed the entire process. It was so difficult to do, that it only occurred after I finished that I should publish something to help folks out. So if you can make a better one, I'm sure folks would greatly appreciate it.
trying to find the OEM alternator, can someone send me the link to buy it please
If you want a new one you gotta buy from Honda. Around 500+ regardless. You can get a Denso reman for around 2-250.
@@samuelsholder2789 Denso is aftermarket correct?
@@samuelsholder2789 btw 2008 accord alternator costs about 425
www.hondapartsonline.net/oem-parts/honda-alternator-assembly-csf89-denso-31100r40a01?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D
@@samuelsholder2789 Yup...2012 Honda Accord V6 EX-L....Honda service department here in central Florida quoted me $734 for the alternator and $165 for the labor......$996 out the door. That is insane! Think I'm going to tackle the job myself. Thanks guys.
Would have been better if you would have recorded and explained while actually removing the items. Other than that, helpful video.
Thanks and I fully agree. It was one of those jobs that was so hard for me, that after I did it....I figured I better help make it a little easier for somebody else.
If you have to put your alternator in a vice to make it fit you probably got the wrong part for your car.
No on Chilton and Haynes manuals. Factory Honda Service manual or nothing.
The whole trick with these cars is getting the thing up and out of the car, the only part the video does not show.
Way better videos on here than this one
a biiiit less jabber jabber
And u can't just pull it out...smh
Lazy video ... people learn by seeing.
Tell us why smashing that alternator with a vice wont hurt it. Seems to me you are telling people to smash the casing which could hurt it.
too much bla..Bla..bla
The over explanations......get to the point
Another" What a waste of time video."
Just gonna throw this out there but, it would really be great if you did your video while you were actually doing the work rather than trying to explain what you did. Some helpful info here but not enough.
Instead of explaining just show the right procedure not how the books says. Books are never right
thts too much lecture
a biiiit less jabber jabber