Appreciate the thoughtful analysis. I notice the Version2 of the Crux35 now uses CrazyF4111 FC that has 20A -I guess they listened to your feedback Darren :)
I have one. Since it is the only 3,5 i have, I can't say of it is the best, but i can, confirm all the positives! Very agile, lightweight, efficient quad. And cheap on top of all. Couldn't recommend it more! 👌
I'm with you on the 12A ESCs sketching me out on such a relatively large model. HappyModel has been going hard with ELRS lately, so you'd think that version would come with 20A ESCs just like the FrSky version does. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise because, with HappyModel especially, you just know the alternative is them lying about their rating. It's a good thing they haven't because I doubt they want a repeat of that BetaFPV 4S whoop board fiasco from 2-3 years ago where a bunch of people popped theirs when they used it as advertised and retailers had to post an addendum saying "3S only from now on". Aside from reliability, I find ESCs to arguably be the most important determining factor in quad performance (especially for top end and minimizing throttle bob), so it makes me wonder if getting the 20A FrSky version and slapping a discrete ELRS receiver on it since they're so cheap is the way to go if you're still keen on using ELRS.
@@DarrenAllatt The Crux35 is $142 in the U.S. and $134 if shipped from China. The same quad, built from parts, but with a reputable FC+ESC stack like the Diatone Mamba Mini Mk2 30A would cost $180-190. Unless you had something cheaper in mind, that's a bigger price jump than adding the $13.50 receiver to the BNF model like I was thinking. Edit: I'm sure prices differ in other countries, but I'd be surprised if the general rule about BNFs being cheaper than individual components didn't apply here.
@@zorilla0 BNF’s are always cheaper than buying parts yourself. I’d go with a JHEMCU board and Emax eco motors to cut down the price, but I’d want a 35a AIO for protection against turtle mode. But yeah going the frsky route with an external RX is the cheapest solution
I just ordered the Frsky/DJI version. This will be my first 3.5 inch quad. I really enjoy my 3 inch Tadpole and my 4 inch Fouride is great too. It looks like there are only maybe 2 propellers available for 3.5 so far. Pretty low pitch props too. I mainly bought this because it was on clearance and for just a little bit more money than what the Vista Polar unit costs, I get a frame, FC/ESC and motors too. Other than my Tinyhawk 2, this is the first bottom battery mount quad I own. I wonder how much different that might feel.
One question bro .....pls reply .... analog version means..... video analog no .... correct....in my mind little confusing analog video digital what is the difference between
I think the Emax Babyhawk 2 HD is the best 3.5" quad, and it was the first! It gives a ton of flight time, even on a small 450mah 4s, for maximum Power to Weight Ratio, and will also give well over 20 minutes on a Li-ion large battery. I'm of the belief that the manufacturers just choose a lipo, without trying several, and we a;l end up flying what they choose! But, if we experiment, we'll find that for the Babyhawk 2 HD and the Crux35 HD, a small 450mah 4s is what gives us the ultra performance we all want. IT RIPS! And still gives plenty of flight time! Do you have a good tune for the HM Crux35 HD? The one that comes with it kinda sucks, with lots of oscillations on middle to high throttle and lots of prop wash. Thanks, and nice review! LIKED! :)
With li-ion batteries they can’t sustain the amp draw of freestyle Manouvers, even the less aggressive ones. They only work for cruising or long range where you aren’t drawing any real current from the battery. As for the e Babyhawk 2 HD… the dealbreaker is the Caddx Vista being used as a structural part of the rear. No electronic component especially one as expensive as a Vista should be structural. I’ve used Betaflight 4.3 with stock pids and rpm filtering
@@DarrenAllatt Saying it's structural is a bit of a stretch, IMO. Sure they mounted the Vista to the top plate, and extended the screws through to metal stand offs and used very long screws from the bottom plate to the top plate. To me, that only makes the Vista mounted even more sturdily. I guess the Vista is mounted between the bottom and top plate, but it's solid as a rock. If you had it in your hands, I think you'd agree. It's super solid, and I've crashed mine a ton. I have yet to hear of one person whose ruined a Vista, non naked. I do understand about Li-ion batteries being used strictly for long range. But for it to do 22 minutes, then take that battery off and use a 450mah 4s and RIP it up, that's a very versatile quad, for sure! :)
Great review and great format. Lots of effort goes into such production. Thank you!! Would you have the chance to test the vista version? It should be 10-20g heavier which on small 1404 should be felt and which could potentially impact the flight characteristics…
Mine weighs 115g with an added vifly independent buzzer and battery strap. I think the buzzer is 7g. The ELRS version only has 12A ESCs, where the FrSky version has 20A. I thought that might be a problem, but have had no issues so far and it feels very locked in to fly. I like it so much that I bought a second one when RDQ had a fantastic Christmas sale on them. Granted, if I do blow the ESCs, I'll use a different board to rebuild, but so far, so good. I'm not an expert flyer, but am trying hard, and I do a lot of throttle punches working on learning aerobatics, so I'm not just flying slow and steady. 4s 850s work great for me freestyle and it carries 1100 just fine for the longer range cinematic stuff. Be sure to grab an extra bottom plate or two if you do buy.
I recently bought the crux35 and I have one problem: When stuff gets under exposed even a little it turns blue or green, like a layer that gets added onto the video. It’s super hard to see detail and is super annoying. Anybody having the same issue?
I must say I really like your reviews, short and to the point, thanks a lot! just yesterday I came across your "best 3.5" you can't buy" video with the 2fiddy frame, 4" arms and 3.5" props. for overall freestyle flying experience which of the two do you think is better? I already own the Crux35 (but haven't flown it yet because I'm still waiting for my ELRS TX to arrive), but I'd be happy to build "your" quad if you still think it's better. thanks again! PS I also have the GEPRC Smart35 (which bardwell considers the best 3.5") but again, haven't flown it yet for the same reason
From what I can tell from JB’s reviews - he hasn’t really flown all of them hence why he considers the Smart35 the best. I have the Smart35, XKnight35, Crux35, Twig35, Crux35 which perhaps qualifies me to speak about “the best” The Smart35 is the best BnF you can buy in the 3.5” segment however you certainly pay for it. Crux35 HD is $268.99 vs Smart35 HD at $349 (pricing per GetFPV). The difference is really made up in the AIO. The 2ThirdyFive (Ummagawd 2Fiddy w/ 3.5” props on 4” arms) is the one I always pick up and enjoying flying more than any of the others.
@@DarrenAllatt good point about bardwell's review. I should go back to albert kim, since he did fly them all. but you also did, so I trust your judgement. given what you said, I'll place an order for the parts to build a 2ThirtyFive :-) BTW, in that video you said you were unimpressed by the iFlight Beast F7, do you have another to suggest? maybe a stack instead of the AIO if there's room? I'm still new to FPV, and you certainly have the pulse on what's available, so I'd appreciate any advice on that front. thanks!
@@DarrenAllatt ok, I got the frame, the arms and the motors. the FC from GEPRC you're referring to is the 45A AIO, or the 35A one? keep in mind that I'll be using analog or shark byte, not DJI, if that makes any difference. thanks again, mate, much appreciated!
Two very different quads. One if very lite and the is more your typical freestyle. If yon are looking for a 3.5” my favourite is the Ummagawd 2Fiddy with 4” arms and 3.5” props, running 6S on 1804 motors
When a motor is twitching like that and doesn’t like to start up (but eventually does and then works fine) is it normally the motor or the esc that is the problem? I have one on a betafpv tiny whoop that is doing that so I’d like to get the parts ordered before it quits working for good but I’m not sure which to order…. Thank you for all the great videos!
There is nothing wrong with either the motor or the esc when it’s twitching if it then spins up with a little throttle. What’s happening is that there isn’t enough voltage to overcome the friction to start it spinning.
@@DarrenAllatt I have to disarm and rearm multiple times sometimes to get one of the motors on my meteor75 pro to start spinning. Sometimes it takes replugging the battery but so far it’s always worked eventually but I was hoping to order parts for when it doesn’t lol
@@DarrenAllatt thanks, I have the tinygo and intend to buy the CRUX35 or the TCMMRC mermaid UR26 5". For freestyle which one would you choose? I'm a beginner and I don't want to spend a lot of money. 💸💸💸
Performance wise it would be the same, but you’d get the advantage of a higher rated esc than the plain ELRS version. So you’d have an overall better quad.
Removing plugs is easier than chopping up new motors, to solder a connector to them. You also lose performance in having to join wires through soldering them together, while gain performance through soldering direct to pads
There are more durable options out there like the GepRC Smart 35 as a BnF.. but there is also the FlyfishRC Volador 3.5” and the Quadmula Siren 3” which are more durable and better for your use case.
If you use a different motor that doesn't have plugs, you can just attach a male JST plug to it. You needn't remove the female plugs and solder direct to the board.
The you are left with the issue of attaching plugs motor wire. Which most people won’t have the plugs, or the crimping gear to do it. Alternatively you are left to chop the existing motor wire with the plugs and then solder the wires together. Putting plugs on this quad is just bad design and implementation
@@DarrenAllatt crimping jst's is easier than soldering. Most rc hobbyists, especially those who also build and fly fixed wings, helis, or anything using servos, will know how to crimp jst plugs. I'd argue that the only (very marginal) penalties are weight and robustness after being plugged/unplugged many times. Convenience wise, I can totally see why they went with a plug. Just as they did on the Mobula.
@@big-smoke-rc that’s 5% to 10% of the target market for this product. These BNF’s are really aimed at those who are beginner to intermediates in FPV and not coming from RC.
@@big-smoke-rc there are no other 1404 motors other than the ones that come on it with plugs, most will buy any other 1404 motor from their local fpv store
I love the way the Crux 35 flys. But it isn’t durable. I broke a frame and now my fc doesn’t work. It just dropped out of the sky. Now it doesn’t even light up . That being said I also have the Geprc Smart 35. It flies great and seems more durable.
GEPRC Smart35 is a great quad! I agree with durability. I have one that had a broken frame and one with a dead AIO as well. That being said, ALL ROUND is different to OVERALL.
@@jc-fpv without knowing the size of your back yard I can’t say but you should start with 3S batteries. It will feel under powered but that will be enough for you get used to it
@@k1ortia something you should consider turning on. Makes binding easier. With a binding phrase you go to the CLI and paste the binding phrases in UID bytes (numbers). To bind, put your Tx into bind mode then go into the CLI in BF and type bind.
@@DarrenAllatt my tx only stays in bind mode for 5 seconds then goes off. i want to start with this new tech, but its been nothing but a ball ache. so glad i still got crossfire
@@k1ortia it’s a ball ache because you are using traditional binding. Like buying a Ferrari and keeping it an valet mode. Go and RE flash everything with a binding phrase. Ball ache will go away
![☀ Бомж ВХОД в FPV мир! А есть ли смысл? + РОЗЫГРЫШ [DarwinFPV Baby Ape | Radiomaster T8 Lite]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dOE257XM4Kg/mqdefault.jpg)
Learn to Build a 5" Freestyle FPV Drone 🎓 www.darrenfpv.com/buildmasterclass-5freestyle
Appreciate the thoughtful analysis. I notice the Version2 of the Crux35 now uses CrazyF4111 FC that has 20A -I guess they listened to your feedback Darren :)
I’d like to think so 🫡
I have one. Since it is the only 3,5 i have, I can't say of it is the best, but i can, confirm all the positives! Very agile, lightweight, efficient quad. And cheap on top of all. Couldn't recommend it more! 👌
I'm with you on the 12A ESCs sketching me out on such a relatively large model. HappyModel has been going hard with ELRS lately, so you'd think that version would come with 20A ESCs just like the FrSky version does. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise because, with HappyModel especially, you just know the alternative is them lying about their rating. It's a good thing they haven't because I doubt they want a repeat of that BetaFPV 4S whoop board fiasco from 2-3 years ago where a bunch of people popped theirs when they used it as advertised and retailers had to post an addendum saying "3S only from now on".
Aside from reliability, I find ESCs to arguably be the most important determining factor in quad performance (especially for top end and minimizing throttle bob), so it makes me wonder if getting the 20A FrSky version and slapping a discrete ELRS receiver on it since they're so cheap is the way to go if you're still keen on using ELRS.
Or just buy a frame kit, and build it to spec
@@DarrenAllatt The Crux35 is $142 in the U.S. and $134 if shipped from China. The same quad, built from parts, but with a reputable FC+ESC stack like the Diatone Mamba Mini Mk2 30A would cost $180-190. Unless you had something cheaper in mind, that's a bigger price jump than adding the $13.50 receiver to the BNF model like I was thinking.
Edit: I'm sure prices differ in other countries, but I'd be surprised if the general rule about BNFs being cheaper than individual components didn't apply here.
@@zorilla0 BNF’s are always cheaper than buying parts yourself. I’d go with a JHEMCU board and Emax eco motors to cut down the price, but I’d want a 35a AIO for protection against turtle mode. But yeah going the frsky route with an external RX is the cheapest solution
I have the crux 3 and love it. Awesome review as usual mate.
I just ordered the Frsky/DJI version. This will be my first 3.5 inch quad. I really enjoy my 3 inch Tadpole and my 4 inch Fouride is great too. It looks like there are only maybe 2 propellers available for 3.5 so far. Pretty low pitch props too. I mainly bought this because it was on clearance and for just a little bit more money than what the Vista Polar unit costs, I get a frame, FC/ESC and motors too. Other than my Tinyhawk 2, this is the first bottom battery mount quad I own. I wonder how much different that might feel.
One question bro .....pls reply .... analog version means..... video analog no .... correct....in my mind little confusing analog video digital what is the difference between
Yes. Analog version means analog video.
As in what’s the difference between analog video and digital video?
Digital video means DJI
@@DarrenAllatt thanks 👍
I think the Emax Babyhawk 2 HD is the best 3.5" quad, and it was the first! It gives a ton of flight time, even on a small 450mah 4s, for maximum Power to Weight Ratio, and will also give well over 20 minutes on a Li-ion large battery. I'm of the belief that the manufacturers just choose a lipo, without trying several, and we a;l end up flying what they choose! But, if we experiment, we'll find that for the Babyhawk 2 HD and the Crux35 HD, a small 450mah 4s is what gives us the ultra performance we all want. IT RIPS! And still gives plenty of flight time!
Do you have a good tune for the HM Crux35 HD? The one that comes with it kinda sucks, with lots of oscillations on middle to high throttle and lots of prop wash. Thanks, and nice review! LIKED! :)
With li-ion batteries they can’t sustain the amp draw of freestyle Manouvers, even the less aggressive ones. They only work for cruising or long range where you aren’t drawing any real current from the battery.
As for the e Babyhawk 2 HD… the dealbreaker is the Caddx Vista being used as a structural part of the rear. No electronic component especially one as expensive as a Vista should be structural.
I’ve used Betaflight 4.3 with stock pids and rpm filtering
@@DarrenAllatt Saying it's structural is a bit of a stretch, IMO. Sure they mounted the Vista to the top plate, and extended the screws through to metal stand offs and used very long screws from the bottom plate to the top plate. To me, that only makes the Vista mounted even more sturdily. I guess the Vista is mounted between the bottom and top plate, but it's solid as a rock. If you had it in your hands, I think you'd agree. It's super solid, and I've crashed mine a ton. I have yet to hear of one person whose ruined a Vista, non naked.
I do understand about Li-ion batteries being used strictly for long range. But for it to do 22 minutes, then take that battery off and use a 450mah 4s and RIP it up, that's a very versatile quad, for sure! :)
I was thinking of running a DJI action 2 on it and was wondering if you know how well or similar it might handle compared to its stock form.
Yeah it should be able to handle an Action 2
what lipos
4S 850mah
@@DarrenAllatt ty and from what brand maybe a link ?
@@TimoYT1 can’t do a link because batteries have to be shipped from a local store.
Tattu is my favourite
@@DarrenAllatt okay ty
That jello T__T
Great review and great format. Lots of effort goes into such production. Thank you!!
Would you have the chance to test the vista version? It should be 10-20g heavier which on small 1404 should be felt and which could potentially impact the flight characteristics…
Mine weighs 115g with an added vifly independent buzzer and battery strap. I think the buzzer is 7g. The ELRS version only has 12A ESCs, where the FrSky version has 20A. I thought that might be a problem, but have had no issues so far and it feels very locked in to fly. I like it so much that I bought a second one when RDQ had a fantastic Christmas sale on them. Granted, if I do blow the ESCs, I'll use a different board to rebuild, but so far, so good. I'm not an expert flyer, but am trying hard, and I do a lot of throttle punches working on learning aerobatics, so I'm not just flying slow and steady. 4s 850s work great for me freestyle and it carries 1100 just fine for the longer range cinematic stuff. Be sure to grab an extra bottom plate or two if you do buy.
You mentioned frying the AIO. Isn't is possible to just add a capacitor to prevent this?
Doesn’t have high enough amp rating, and it already has a capacitor
I recently bought the crux35 and I have one problem:
When stuff gets under exposed even a little it turns blue or green, like a layer that gets added onto the video. It’s super hard to see detail and is super annoying. Anybody having the same issue?
What do you think Is the best all round 3.5”?
Cool review mate! Nice one
I must say I really like your reviews, short and to the point, thanks a lot! just yesterday I came across your "best 3.5" you can't buy" video with the 2fiddy frame, 4" arms and 3.5" props. for overall freestyle flying experience which of the two do you think is better? I already own the Crux35 (but haven't flown it yet because I'm still waiting for my ELRS TX to arrive), but I'd be happy to build "your" quad if you still think it's better. thanks again! PS I also have the GEPRC Smart35 (which bardwell considers the best 3.5") but again, haven't flown it yet for the same reason
From what I can tell from JB’s reviews - he hasn’t really flown all of them hence why he considers the Smart35 the best.
I have the Smart35, XKnight35, Crux35, Twig35, Crux35 which perhaps qualifies me to speak about “the best”
The Smart35 is the best BnF you can buy in the 3.5” segment however you certainly pay for it. Crux35 HD is $268.99 vs Smart35 HD at $349 (pricing per GetFPV). The difference is really made up in the AIO.
The 2ThirdyFive (Ummagawd 2Fiddy w/ 3.5” props on 4” arms) is the one I always pick up and enjoying flying more than any of the others.
@@DarrenAllatt good point about bardwell's review. I should go back to albert kim, since he did fly them all. but you also did, so I trust your judgement.
given what you said, I'll place an order for the parts to build a 2ThirtyFive :-) BTW, in that video you said you were unimpressed by the iFlight Beast F7, do you have another to suggest? maybe a stack instead of the AIO if there's room? I'm still new to FPV, and you certainly have the pulse on what's available, so I'd appreciate any advice on that front.
thanks!
@@pgabrieli the iFlight beast now comes with a BMI270 gyro so it’s limited to 3.2k refresh rate. I like the Foxeer Reaper AIO or the new F7 from GEPRC
@@DarrenAllatt thanks!
@@DarrenAllatt ok, I got the frame, the arms and the motors. the FC from GEPRC you're referring to is the 45A AIO, or the 35A one? keep in mind that I'll be using analog or shark byte, not DJI, if that makes any difference. thanks again, mate, much appreciated!
Hallo. Can you recommend this crux35 for beginners in the FPV world? Greatings from Germoney...
Yes I can
You fly pretty fast. I just starting out and it is horrible.
You get better with more time
Great vid Darren! How does this compare to the Roma 35 you reviewed ?
Two very different quads. One if very lite and the is more your typical freestyle.
If yon are looking for a 3.5” my favourite is the Ummagawd 2Fiddy with 4” arms and 3.5” props, running 6S on 1804 motors
@@DarrenAllatt great! Appreciate the feedback ;)
When a motor is twitching like that and doesn’t like to start up (but eventually does and then works fine) is it normally the motor or the esc that is the problem? I have one on a betafpv tiny whoop that is doing that so I’d like to get the parts ordered before it quits working for good but I’m not sure which to order…. Thank you for all the great videos!
There is nothing wrong with either the motor or the esc when it’s twitching if it then spins up with a little throttle.
What’s happening is that there isn’t enough voltage to overcome the friction to start it spinning.
@@DarrenAllatt I have to disarm and rearm multiple times sometimes to get one of the motors on my meteor75 pro to start spinning. Sometimes it takes replugging the battery but so far it’s always worked eventually but I was hoping to order parts for when it doesn’t lol
@@StoneFPV-yes you are good no parts needed
@@DarrenAllatt ok thank you!
Nice review, crux35 vs tinyhawk II freestyle who the Winner? Thanks
Crux35 hands down.. you’ve got a 3.5” 4S quad vs a 2.5” 2S quad… the TH2F also uses very old components etc
@@DarrenAllatt thanks,
I have the tinygo and intend to buy the CRUX35 or the TCMMRC mermaid UR26 5". For freestyle which one would you choose? I'm a beginner and I don't want to spend a lot of money. 💸💸💸
Do you think the Frsky version with an added ELRS receiver would perform the same or better or worse than the ELRS version?
Performance wise it would be the same, but you’d get the advantage of a higher rated esc than the plain ELRS version. So you’d have an overall better quad.
@@DarrenAllattthanks!
Anyone added a crossfire reciever?
Yes.
5:49 wouldn’t be easier to solder connectors onto the new motors?
Removing plugs is easier than chopping up new motors, to solder a connector to them. You also lose performance in having to join wires through soldering them together, while gain performance through soldering direct to pads
@@DarrenAllatt good to know, thank you. Still and always learning.
How is the durability of this frame since it’s so light? I like this quad but I want to fly office parks
There are more durable options out there like the GepRC Smart 35 as a BnF.. but there is also the FlyfishRC Volador 3.5” and the Quadmula Siren 3” which are more durable and better for your use case.
@@DarrenAllatt thanks for the suggestion on the volador 3.5” that one must’ve passed right by my google/youtube searches before!
hmmm... I wonder if the Five33 tpu parts would fit on this machine.
They won’t. Try the Pickle Race 3.5” on CNC Drones which is designed for Switchback TPU
@@DarrenAllatt Thank you
If you use a different motor that doesn't have plugs, you can just attach a male JST plug to it. You needn't remove the female plugs and solder direct to the board.
The you are left with the issue of attaching plugs motor wire. Which most people won’t have the plugs, or the crimping gear to do it. Alternatively you are left to chop the existing motor wire with the plugs and then solder the wires together. Putting plugs on this quad is just bad design and implementation
@@DarrenAllatt crimping jst's is easier than soldering. Most rc hobbyists, especially those who also build and fly fixed wings, helis, or anything using servos, will know how to crimp jst plugs.
I'd argue that the only (very marginal) penalties are weight and robustness after being plugged/unplugged many times. Convenience wise, I can totally see why they went with a plug. Just as they did on the Mobula.
@@big-smoke-rc that’s 5% to 10% of the target market for this product. These BNF’s are really aimed at those who are beginner to intermediates in FPV and not coming from RC.
@@DarrenAllatt if you're a beginner in fpv, you're gonna try to avoid soldering, and buy the motors with the plugs.
@@big-smoke-rc there are no other 1404 motors other than the ones that come on it with plugs, most will buy any other 1404 motor from their local fpv store
I love the way the Crux 35 flys. But it isn’t durable. I broke a frame and now my fc doesn’t work. It just dropped out of the sky. Now it doesn’t even light up . That being said I also have the Geprc Smart 35. It flies great and seems more durable.
GEPRC Smart35 is a great quad! I agree with durability. I have one that had a broken frame and one with a dead AIO as well. That being said, ALL ROUND is different to OVERALL.
Is it better a 4s 650 or a 850?😢
4S 850mah
Can you please tell me how tall the standoffs are?
23mm by my measurements. You couldn’t use 25 because the camera mount wouldn’t fit.
Can you still add a crossfire receiver?
Yes, I have added Crossfire to mine.
What are the dimensions of those gates?
4ft internal
Ola.
Pode ser usado em quintal da casa.
E em praças ?
Sorry, can you please ask in English
@@DarrenAllatt
With this drone you can fly in
Squares and backyard of the house ?
Or was thinking of building one.
with that frame.
@@jc-fpv Yes you can if you are a good enough pilot
@@DarrenAllatt
But with it I can fly slowly.
Slowly.
I'm a beginner.
@@jc-fpv without knowing the size of your back yard I can’t say but you should start with 3S batteries. It will feel under powered but that will be enough for you get used to it
You can sell it to me for a much lower price😅
how do you bind this pissing thing?
Do you use a binding phrase for ELRS?
@@DarrenAllatt No. iv left the binding phrase off
@@k1ortia something you should consider turning on. Makes binding easier. With a binding phrase you go to the CLI and paste the binding phrases in UID bytes (numbers).
To bind, put your Tx into bind mode then go into the CLI in BF and type bind.
@@DarrenAllatt my tx only stays in bind mode for 5 seconds then goes off. i want to start with this new tech, but its been nothing but a ball ache. so glad i still got crossfire
@@k1ortia it’s a ball ache because you are using traditional binding. Like buying a Ferrari and keeping it an valet mode. Go and RE flash everything with a binding phrase. Ball ache will go away
is it posible to instal gps on this quad?
Yes, and I have. Just wire up to a spare UART
@@DarrenAllatt can u make some tutorial, cause i already setup gps on my crux35 , and gps wont work
@@untalegend ok, it may be a week or two
@@untalegend which GPS did you buy?
@@DarrenAllatt hglrc m80 GLONASS