It is but in Ireland if the car was imported from England they don’t cover it 🤔 I doesn’t make much sense though, so I’ll probably have to do a few more 🙂 I’m getting good at them now. Thanks for the heads up & comment 👍
@@sawomirborewicz5691 I suppose it depends on country the vehicle is registered in & the year of manufacture. And whether you are having issues with it, they might not do it as general maintenance recall. Contact your local dealer and speak to them directly. 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 same problem with a friend 2017 cx5 only 50,000 miles on it I'm really hoping madza will offer goodwill to fix this very very disappointing.its being services at the recommended intervals I'm expecting a call Monday about what going to happen
you also need to re-seal the fuel injectors,thats how that gunk gets stuck in the oil pickup. one or more of the injectors are leaking and causing a sludge buildup :)
@@TheHelac hi Alen thanks for subscribing & commenting. Strange but I can’t find it either, I will try to locate it and send you a link as soon as. I show a small bit about the injectors at the end of this video that I link next. They are easy enough to remove.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi Peter, your videos are excellent, really informative. I can't seem to find the video for the injector removal / seal replacement / refitting. The link you posted above is for the exhaust camshaft removal. Where are you based?
The oil strainer comes with a small rubber O ring. But when I fit it to my oil pump with this O ring it doesnt mount on properly? Can you fit the strainer without the O ring to the oil pump? Problem is the only part that shows if you leave the O ring in has been cut from the edit in this video
@@leonangus1 the only issue you should be encountered is the new O rings are not compressed like the older one. Tighten the bolts slowly and see does everything come together as expected 🤞🤞
Hi Peter i have a 2013 cx5 2.2 done 80km . I change oil every 3000km because of oil dilution i dont let it get to x on dipstick . Oil pressure light came on the other so i changed oil went for a 30min drive and it came on again . Took into a garage with an average scantool he reset the oil dilution code . Could the light of come on the second time because oil dilution code hadn't been reset ? Injection seals were replaced about 20,000km ago they said the previous seals hadn't been leaking. Thinking about taking the sump off . Thanks
Wait and see how it goes over the next few days. The oil dilution counter can illuminate the oil light. And everything sounds positive by changing the oil seals etc. recently. If the oil light is still coming on then remove the sump & replace the strainer 😉👍👍
Peter, can a clogged oil strainer on a CX5 cause the engine to hammer loudly like a tractor? I have thst problem and the oil light flashes up intermittently. I have stopped using the car.
Yes, oil starvation is like us loosing blood pressure. It can be very serious very fast 😬😬 It sounds like you have a bearing on the crankshaft shaft after failing. This is very expensive to repair, complete engine rebuild 😞😞
if I'm seeing this correctly, you had to remove the entire oil pump assembly just to remove that plastic piece? I think I might just rip that strainer out of there to prevent engine failure. My 2012 has 200,000 miles on it, so I imaging it's quite clogged by now.
You are seeing it exactly right, the pump & balance shaft assembly needs to be removed, then disassembled in order to remove 1 bolt holding on the oil strainer. It isn’t as big a job as it seems though. It probably only takes around 30 minutes extra 🙏🙏👍
Hey Gary, the oil strainer in the sump is more than likely the cause of your problem. This has probably happened due to the injector washers leaking & building up carbon in the crankcase 😬😬 I’m delighted that that you are enjoying some of my content & thank you 🙏🙏👍
Hi Kennedy. Amazing videos. Thank you. I did my strainer change, now the car cranks but won't start. Any idea what it might be. Please any help would be appreciated
Nothing involved in the oil strainer replacement would stop it from starting afterwards. Did you carry out any other work?? By the way my name is Peter
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thank you for the reply. the chain did move a bit when I tried to remove the bolt holding the timing chain. And I did do my EGR and manifold clean as well. It was packed with carbon. Checked the battery and fuses and relays, they are all seems to be good.
@@morushdi8076 once you didn’t loosen the bolt in the crank pulley your timing will be fine. I wonder could some carbon be stuck under the intake valves, affecting compression??
Good video on the subject. I've a 2016 CX5 2.2 diesel with just over 50k miles. I've been changing the oil every 6k miles as we mostly drive short journey's and know about the oil dilution issues. I have no issues what's so ever with the car but would it be worth taking the sump off to have a look at the oil pick up for any carbon build up. It's due another oil change soon. Cheers.
I would say the miles are a bit low & especially when changing the oil ever 6k. Just my thoughts but it is very easy to remove if you wanted to, around 2 hours 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 in all my years I've had not bad cars . I love how these drives but I've come unlucky on mine huge work being done atm new HD rockers cams etc normally if I'd have had car a good few years I'd rid of it but taking dealer to court (not mazda) so having the work done . Misfiring from a few weeks in til now getting worst. Had other issues had 1 new injector etc new therm. coolant sensor etc but what a ball ache. This I'd likeky do along with no issues doing water pump and belts but I'm not touching it as I shouldn't have to ....got enough to do with stripping my bike engine the bustards sold me a shit box
Thankyou l got one mazda demio disel 2015 bt bt when ingine oil symbol appears it cut off immediately and no more acceleration can be done unless u start up again can it be oil pump problem
Is there any way to tell visually if the injector washers have been replaced or anything in this video has been performed on a car without any detailed history? Looks doable thanks to your video Peter so I’m thinking preventative maintenance rather than “bang” 💥 and then think well I should have done that‼️
Pull of the oil filler cap when engine is running & if injector seals are leaking you can hear it. If you looked at the sump and saw not factory sealer it might tell you the oil strainer was done . You could also check oil pressure is in spec. Other than that unfortunately history is the best way of knowing I believe 🤔👍
The oil pump assembly you removed from the base of the block also seems to have balance shafts in it. There was no reference to making sure that this was timed to the main engine??
Yes, well copped. I hadn’t noticed that before & thought I had mentioned it in the video 🤨but I will edit it Before removing the chain mark the crank pulley to the chain cover, then mark oil pump pulley to the oil pump body & that is enough. I hope this helps 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 The addition would help those doing the job who are not aware of the role of the balance shaft and inadvertently create a problem which wasn't there previously.
I used to just do that on older steel types but I’m told that it doesn’t work on these pickups. But I suppose it can’t do any harm. It is only a gauze 🤔👍
Hi Peter, How much would you charge to replace that plastic oil strainer. I recently bought a 2016 2.2d and the dealer advised me that the injector washers had “just started leaking” and were replaced just before I purchased the car. The the oil was supposedly changed also but has a diesel smell and would slightly above full mark. I changed it again myself, but would like the strainer done as a precaution.
hi peter got a 2012 cx5 on 65000 miles light came on saying low oil pressure about 3000 mile ago done 2 oil change with engine flush and all seems to be fine now how many miles before you have to change the oil strainer and do you think i should have a look at it now thanks neil
Hi Neill, Has it come on since ?? And did you do an ‘oil dilution reset’ ??? It is very common for the injector washers to leak & buildup lots of carbon in the crankcase, which in turn blocks the oil strainer. It is a really good preventative maintenance job to do. It prevents any bigger problems arising 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi thanks for the reply no the light hasnt come on since but i have changed the injector washers on the weekend and going to remove the sump this sunday just to make sure how do you do the oil dilution reset ? thanks neil
@@user-tn6be5pu3t you will need a scantool and go into special functions or hot functions. You should see oil dilution reset in there somewhere, all scantools are different so that’s as specific as I can be. The best of luck with the oil strainer job & mark everything when removing the oil pump timing chain. Can’t go wrong then 😉🤞🤞🤞
Any chance you could do a small video of slacking that chain off. It’s the only thing that’s holding me back from attempting this myself. Just so I know where to press to slacken. It.
Hi Andrew, I will do that no bother but I don’t have any Mazda’s in at the moment so it could be a few weeks before that is possible for me. But if that is the only thing stopping you don’t let it, it is quite simple. When you have the sump off mark the crank pulley to the crankcase (this pulley is not coming off). Then mark the oil pump pulley to the body of the oil pump anywhere that is easy see. The only reason for this is because of the balance shaft behind the oil pump that I show being separated from the pump. The tensioner is only spring loaded & I find a screwdriver pressed in the best, if in doubt put a zip tie on it to hold it in place. I’ll message you if I get a video done on it and message me anytime if you get stuck while doing it. Good luck with it, Peter🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 appriciate this mate thanks. Most of it is in the video is explained. Just didn’t want the chain being messed up for when it goes back together. I’ve watched another UA-cam video and seen the the tensioner is a yellow semi oval type piece that can be pushed back a bit.
@@samostraser8924 that's a good idea what type sealant did u use to put back on mate ? I'm not sure of this is my actual issue though not long changed oil and filter I've had odd idling issue and when I get it it has a deep throaty exhaust note very odd 9ve had some rough running like iys not smooth at 60/70 but 90%+ it idles lovely almost as of its not running at all
Hi Samo, it can be done without any special tools. Just mark the oil pump pulley to something that doesn’t move & refit chain in the same place. There is a balance shaft inside it but it makes very little difference even if fitted incorrectly. Hope this helps 👍
@@samostraser8924 I use a very large pliers to grab the outside of the chain, I think you can see this in the video, also there is no key way from pump to pulley so mark the pulley to the shaft when the bolt comes out also
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hay, yes I saw pliers, but I was not sure if you also use pliers for removing or no :p. I will be very happy if you once show us, how to replace timing chain on Mazda Skyactiv-d. Have a nice day!
@@kennedysgarage3281 where abouts are you from, you should do this as a side line job as I'm on a Mazda Facebook forum and there are loads of people asking to have this job done
Had this a couple of years ago on my 2013 model at 60k miles, lots of these having engines seize...people are lucky if they catch it in time. . Did you use a sealant when putting the sump back on?
Yes, I use a generic gasket maker / sealer it is called Dirko. Quite expensive but very good. Mostly the injector seals fail building up carbon under the rocker cover which then mixes in the oil & blocks the gauze.
@@kennedysgarage3281 I'm having the same issues with my Mazda6 2015. It lost power on the motorway last week Sunday and currently in the garage but I way have to use someone different to fix it. Mazda dealer had worked on it in the past but I doubt that part has been changed looking at the condition of build up its showing 🤔even though they said so & it's at a 124, 000 miles now. They've mentioned recall in the past but nothing around this issue if I'm correct so I have no idea where I stand with this one, maybe you could help to let me know more...? What's the likely cost for replacing / repair please?
@@boomnitejrdlynch9791 it could have lost power for lots of reasons?? Do you have any direction to go ( as in fault codes). To replace the oil gauze wouldn’t be too expensive prior to any bearing etc. failing. €300 or €400
I haven’t ever tried to split them, I was advised once to just replace it & that is what I have done from then on. The strainer are quite inexpensive, around €70 or €80 & then you know it is right 😉👍👍
Hope this helps same problem i managed to get the oil strainer after mechanic had taken off, then broke into with pliers, to reveal the carbon build up, so no they do not just unclip, hope this helps
At the front of the engine close to the oil filter. I’m starting to find the strainer gets clogged around 200k kms or 120k miles. But you are right to check oil pressure first. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 My 2014 2.2 Skyactive 2.2D just had this issue and I'm at around 112,00 miles, so pretty close to your estimate. First, I got an error code P06DE - Oil pump switching low-pressure followed by a more serious error P055F - Low oil pressure abnormality. This error put the car into limp mode. A local garage changed the oil and oil filter and it was fine for about 400 miles, but then the errors came up again. I paid very close attention to the oil pressure level using ForScan Lite (Android) and a Bluetooth OBD adapter. Cheap and extremely valuable for the information it provides. The oil pressure seemed to be just below the 'low' threshold, but then suddenly dropped to under 100 kPA (14.5 psi). At this point I refused to drive the car to avoid any serious damage. I got the car towed to my local Mazda dealer. They mentioned that it is very likely to be a clogged strainer, just as you have explained here. I'm still waiting to hear how much it's going to cost. FYI - they mentioned that the reason the car was probably ok for 400+ miles after an oil and filter change was because the new oil is thinner. I guess that makes sense. The dealer has been very good with me in the past and my car has pretty much a full Mazda dealer service history, so hopefully they'll go easy on me lol. Sorry, I know this is a bit long-winded, but hopefully it may help someone. Thanks!
@@hyper-viper absolutely brilliant info, the dealer can be very familiar with these issues because it happens so much on this engine. And I find because the technicians are so familiar with them the labour times are fast so it shouldn’t be too bad. I’d guess somewhere around €1000 to €1500 if they do injector seals & intake system de-carb. But it all sounds good, thanks for taking the time to post it 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the reply. My engine had a de-coke done by Mazda about 6 months ago at 6 hours labour. This was just after they serviced it. I've done about 5-6,000 miles since it was serviced and I thought the engine would be running great after the de-coke and oil/filter change. Disappointing that this has happened but not much I can do about it now! Thanks :-)
@@hyper-viper it should be 3-4 hrs involved it changing oil pick up. Be sure to ask them about injector copper washers?? This is what causes the strainer to block in the first place 👍
@@Martin-hh3ju the injector seals fail & the compression gases build up under the rocker cover as carbon. This then gets into the oil & then caught by the strainer
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks, i was told the same by another local garage, unfortunately know one in my area wants to take on the job of changing my seals, even though I've already got all the parts from mazda, I wish you were closer
They say it is resolved in the newer engines & that the rear older ones were not there fines hour. Only time will tell. But I would say not to worry about yours for now, just keep it well serviced & it will be fine ✊
No. At least not opened and then reassembled. Lots of people try cleaning them but from what I see to no avail. They generally block due to injector washers failing so be sure to remove the rocker cover to check before replacing the strainer. It will block again if not 😉👍👍👍
Hi Kennedy, I understand this was a 2016 Mazda 6 2.2D, I assume you got some DTCs and that's why you carried out the work? What DTC did you get? I have the exact same car at 135k Miles. I had changed the oil 3k miles ago. I first got a P06DE - Engine Oil Pressure control circuit stuck on, that was 1 day ago, no check engine light, no oil light, was suspecting oil solenoid valve or oil pressure/temperature sensor issue. I was getting healthy oil pressure, was around 120-160kpa, but then would get stuck at 200kpa for a minute or so which would cause this code. Today on the way on the way to the garage, I got P055F and P0524, which is Oil pressure out of range and Oil pressure too low, check engine light + red oil light. Stopped immediately. I still have my laptop with Forscan, so plugged it in, now oil pressure is below 100kpa, seen it as low as 60kpa, according to 1 of the codes, it must have been as low as 30kpa. So now I'm suspecting Oil pump failure. I don't think a blocked oil pick up can cause my first DTC - P06DE. All codes still have sensor issues as common causes, but not Oil Solenoid valve, they all of course have oil pump failure as a common issue. I'm just wondering if you had seen the P06DE DTC with this Oil pick up being blocked. Thanks in advance.
What happened to me on this one was I was getting air flow & egr fault codes. But also the engine was quite noisy ( top end ) So I removed the injectors & cam cover to find that the injector washers were leaking badly & built up a large amount of carbon around the camshaft & caused it to fail. After replacing the camshaft & fixing injector seals/seats. I then dropped the sump to see how the carbon affected the pick up. I haven’t seen that code before but if it was my own car, I would drop the sump & change the pickup also oil and filter. It should only take 3-4 hours, gauze is around €70 & on the shelf in main dealership. Then monitor it for a few miles to see how things act. If pressure is back wheyhey. It could get quite expensive after that🤨 Do you know the price of a pump? It’s Peter by the way
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hey, thanks for getting back to me. So far doesn't sound like the same problem, I don't have valve lifter noise from top end or anything, also from what I saw through the oil fill cap, I couldn't see any carbon build up, looked fairly clean... But it ain't that big of a peep whole 😅 As far as the oil pump cost, brand new from mazda it's like £800-900. I could get a refurbished one, the whole assembly with balancer shaft + pick up gauze for £150, or a genuine brand new seperate pump from a trusted reseller for £500. It all depends what we find once the oil pan is dropped. Mechanic is busy at the moment, so can't do much at the moment.
@@xegro Hello, I had almost the same situation 2 years ago and around 140.000km, now over 200.000km. Oil pickup was completely blocked, Mazda official service just changed oil pressure sensor (which I think was ok. I must trie it once, I have still somewhere at home ;)). So after I cleaned oil pump pickup strainer and changed injector seals car works super. Now I changed oil + filter every 10.000km and I regularly monitor oil pressure and DPF regeneration with Forscan. I remember that Forscan showed same DTC - P06DE and service looked like never seen this before and told me that my Chinese ELM caused this :p.
@@samostraser8924 Hey Samo, I'm at 217k km. In regards to what you said, since you got same code, which might have been caused by a blocked strainer, that's reassuring. I'm hoping it's just the oil strainer/pick up that's clogged. If so, I'll replace/clean it and then change injector washers. What's wierd is the oil pressure was quite healthy before the DTC codes, was easily getting 160kpa on cold start, and stayed above 120 after warmup, then suddenly I got the additional 2 DTC, and oil pressure is no longer healthy, going as low as 40-100kpa... I would have thought if the oil strainer was blocked, oil pressure would have gradually gone down over time as it got blocked more and more. I guess maybe the oil pump increases pressure using the solenoid valve to keep up with the blockage and then it no longer can provide enough and you finally get the DTCs. I also use Forscan, my cars been doing DPF regen every 140-160 miles, since I've been getting good MPG. I get atleast 50mpg. DPF Regen frequency is apparently directly linked to how many literes of fuel is used, so if you do alot of local driving, get low MPG, use alot of fuel, the DPF regen is more frequent. Fingers crossed 🤞 I haven't checked yet, but I guess you have to remove rocker cover to remove and replace injector washer seals? Might as well get the injectors cleaned as well while they are out.
@@xegro Hay, above 120 or even lower is to low. I am almost sure that oil pump strainer is blocked. Just remove oil pan and check. No you dont need to remove rocker covers for changing injector washer seals. Check this euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0114z7800600.html and this for oil pan euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0111s6800200.html and all DTC euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0102s4801500.html
срываете и откручиваете до упора длинный болт.берёте болгарку и его обрезаете.ставите новый маслоприёмник а на место обрезаного длинного болта ставите на 1 см.короче болт.вот и все качели.нахрен снимать балансиры?потом снимаете клапанную крышку и весь нагар вычищаете.меняете медные шайбы под форсунками и раза два масло вместе с фильтром.форсунки не перетягивайте а то полопают бугеля.если лопнул то его можно заварить.один бугель стоит 200 евро.как то так.удачи.Слава ЗСУ
I have seen this done by 1 or 2 guys but think it is a bad idea. The removal of the oil pump module is a handy job. And it is very easy to split, at least it is the done right. Try it the next time you have one in, I bet you’ll find it handy too 🤞💪💪
There is actually a recall on those to put different sealing washers under the injectors, hopefuly this will help you in the future
It is but in Ireland if the car was imported from England they don’t cover it 🤔
I doesn’t make much sense though, so I’ll probably have to do a few more 🙂 I’m getting good at them now. Thanks for the heads up & comment 👍
Are you sure about recall? I checked Mazda website wit my VIN and got info that there is currently no outstanding recall.
@@sawomirborewicz5691 I suppose it depends on country the vehicle is registered in & the year of manufacture. And whether you are having issues with it, they might not do it as general maintenance recall. Contact your local dealer and speak to them directly. 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 same problem with a friend 2017 cx5 only 50,000 miles on it I'm really hoping madza will offer goodwill to fix this very very disappointing.its being services at the recommended intervals
I'm expecting a call Monday about what going to happen
@@K-carbon after 3 years & only 50k it is a bit disappointing ok. Fingers crossed they will cover it🤞
Let us all know how you get on 🙏
you also need to re-seal the fuel injectors,thats how that gunk gets stuck in the oil pickup. one or more of the injectors are leaking and causing a sludge buildup :)
That is correct, I have other videos showing injector removal,seal replacement and refitting . This is what causes a lot of the engine issues 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 hey man, thanks for great videos! can you please link to that injector and washer video? cant seem to find it.
@@TheHelac hi Alen thanks for subscribing & commenting. Strange but I can’t find it either, I will try to locate it and send you a link as soon as. I show a small bit about the injectors at the end of this video that I link next. They are easy enough to remove.
@@TheHelac
ua-cam.com/video/AokHxYo0EB8/v-deo.html
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi Peter, your videos are excellent, really informative. I can't seem to find the video for the injector removal / seal replacement / refitting. The link you posted above is for the exhaust camshaft removal. Where are you based?
Loosen the bolts and tear off the oil collector. Re-installed by sawing the oil collector bolt U-hole and voila?
Can you explain please with more words what you did? You replaced the oil strainer only by removing the two bolts which is fixing it?
Interesting 🤨 but I get you 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 So far I only clean strainer, without removing oil pump and its working. I use small brush and cleaning spray.
@@samostraser8924 What spray did you use to clear the carbon build up? Brake cleaner?
@@xegro I think this one, but brush must also be used ;) www.amazon.co.uk/Liqui-Moly-5111-Detergent-Butterfly/dp/B00295D7T0?th=1
The oil strainer comes with a small rubber O ring. But when I fit it to my oil pump with this O ring it doesnt mount on properly? Can you fit the strainer without the O ring to the oil pump? Problem is the only part that shows if you leave the O ring in has been cut from the edit in this video
@@leonangus1 the only issue you should be encountered is the new O rings are not compressed like the older one. Tighten the bolts slowly and see does everything come together as expected 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks sorted now cheers
Hi Peter i have a 2013 cx5 2.2 done 80km . I change oil every 3000km because of oil dilution i dont let it get to x on dipstick . Oil pressure light came on the other so i changed oil went for a 30min drive and it came on again . Took into a garage with an average scantool he reset the oil dilution code . Could the light of come on the second time because oil dilution code hadn't been reset ? Injection seals were replaced about 20,000km ago they said the previous seals hadn't been leaking. Thinking about taking the sump off . Thanks
Wait and see how it goes over the next few days. The oil dilution counter can illuminate the oil light. And everything sounds positive by changing the oil seals etc. recently.
If the oil light is still coming on then remove the sump & replace the strainer 😉👍👍
And the oil strainer blockage by carbon build up is caused by one blown or few blown injector copper seals.
Absolutely correct, it is the most common cause anyway 😉😉
Peter, can a clogged oil strainer on a CX5 cause the engine to hammer loudly like a tractor? I have thst problem and the oil light flashes up intermittently. I have stopped using the car.
Yes, oil starvation is like us loosing blood pressure. It can be very serious very fast 😬😬
It sounds like you have a bearing on the crankshaft shaft after failing. This is very expensive to repair, complete engine rebuild 😞😞
if I'm seeing this correctly, you had to remove the entire oil pump assembly just to remove that plastic piece? I think I might just rip that strainer out of there to prevent engine failure. My 2012 has 200,000 miles on it, so I imaging it's quite clogged by now.
You are seeing it exactly right, the pump & balance shaft assembly needs to be removed, then disassembled in order to remove 1 bolt holding on the oil strainer. It isn’t as big a job as it seems though. It probably only takes around 30 minutes extra 🙏🙏👍
Loving these videos .
I have a Mazda 6 2010 2.2 D 185 … 200k miles but now oil pressure light flickering at idle 😢 . Any ideas 💡
Hey Gary, the oil strainer in the sump is more than likely the cause of your problem. This has probably happened due to the injector washers leaking & building up carbon in the crankcase 😬😬
I’m delighted that that you are enjoying some of my content & thank you 🙏🙏👍
Hi Kennedy. Amazing videos. Thank you. I did my strainer change, now the car cranks but won't start. Any idea what it might be. Please any help would be appreciated
Nothing involved in the oil strainer replacement would stop it from starting afterwards. Did you carry out any other work??
By the way my name is Peter
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi Peter thank you for the reply. the chain did move a bit when I tried to remove the bolt holding the timing chain. And I did do my EGR and manifold clean as well. It was packed with carbon. Checked the battery and fuses and relays, they are all seems to be good.
@@morushdi8076 once you didn’t loosen the bolt in the crank pulley your timing will be fine. I wonder could some carbon be stuck under the intake valves, affecting compression??
Good video on the subject. I've a 2016 CX5 2.2 diesel with just over 50k miles. I've been changing the oil every 6k miles as we mostly drive short journey's and know about the oil dilution issues. I have no issues what's so ever with the car but would it be worth taking the sump off to have a look at the oil pick up for any carbon build up. It's due another oil change soon. Cheers.
I would say the miles are a bit low & especially when changing the oil ever 6k.
Just my thoughts but it is very easy to remove if you wanted to, around 2 hours 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 in all my years I've had not bad cars . I love how these drives but I've come unlucky on mine huge work being done atm new HD rockers cams etc normally if I'd have had car a good few years I'd rid of it but taking dealer to court (not mazda) so having the work done . Misfiring from a few weeks in til now getting worst. Had other issues had 1 new injector etc new therm. coolant sensor etc but what a ball ache. This I'd likeky do along with no issues doing water pump and belts but I'm not touching it as I shouldn't have to ....got enough to do with stripping my bike engine the bustards sold me a shit box
@@kevinhancock4064 that’s unlucky, hopefully you can get it sorted 😞
Thankyou l got one mazda demio disel 2015 bt bt when ingine oil symbol appears it cut off immediately and no more acceleration can be done unless u start up again can it be oil pump problem
I would definitely start by looking at the oil strainer. It is most likely blocked 🤔🤔🤔
Is there any way to tell visually if the injector washers have been replaced or anything in this video has been performed on a car without any detailed history? Looks doable thanks to your video Peter so I’m thinking preventative maintenance rather than “bang” 💥 and then think well I should have done that‼️
Pull of the oil filler cap when engine is running & if injector seals are leaking you can hear it. If you looked at the sump and saw not factory sealer it might tell you the oil strainer was done . You could also check oil pressure is in spec. Other than that unfortunately history is the best way of knowing I believe 🤔👍
The oil pump assembly you removed from the base of the block also seems to have balance shafts in it. There was no reference to making sure that this was timed to the main engine??
Yes, well copped. I hadn’t noticed that before & thought I had mentioned it in the video 🤨but I will edit it
Before removing the chain mark the crank pulley to the chain cover, then mark oil pump pulley to the oil pump body & that is enough. I hope this helps 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 The addition would help those doing the job who are not aware of the role of the balance shaft and inadvertently create a problem which wasn't there previously.
Say I was doing this on the driveway. Can I just fire buckets of brake and clutch at that gauze or is that pump off and replacement necessary
I used to just do that on older steel types but I’m told that it doesn’t work on these pickups. But I suppose it can’t do any harm. It is only a gauze 🤔👍
Cheers big man, enjoying the videos too. Top work
Great videos are mazdas skyactive petrol reliable? There lovely cars shame about the diesels
I don’t know much about the petrol one but I do feel petrol are more reliable than diesel 🤔
Hi Peter, How much would you charge to replace that plastic oil strainer. I recently bought a 2016 2.2d and the dealer advised me that the injector washers had “just started leaking” and were replaced just before I purchased the car.
The the oil was supposedly changed also but has a diesel smell and would slightly above full mark. I changed it again myself, but would like the strainer done as a precaution.
It is a good idea to change it around 100k to 150k . An average costing of around €700 in total. Have you had the intake manifold cleaned??
hi peter got a 2012 cx5 on 65000 miles light came on saying low oil pressure about 3000 mile ago done 2 oil change with engine flush and all seems to be fine now how many miles before you have to change the oil strainer and do you think i should have a look at it now
thanks
neil
Hi Neill, Has it come on since ?? And did you do an ‘oil dilution reset’ ???
It is very common for the injector washers to leak & buildup lots of carbon in the crankcase, which in turn blocks the oil strainer. It is a really good preventative maintenance job to do. It prevents any bigger problems arising 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi thanks for the reply no the light hasnt come on since but i have changed the injector washers on the weekend and going to remove the sump this sunday just to make sure
how do you do the oil dilution reset ?
thanks neil
@@user-tn6be5pu3t you will need a scantool and go into special functions or hot functions. You should see oil dilution reset in there somewhere, all scantools are different so that’s as specific as I can be.
The best of luck with the oil strainer job & mark everything when removing the oil pump timing chain. Can’t go wrong then 😉🤞🤞🤞
ok many thanks @@kennedysgarage3281
@@kennedysgarage3281 can carbon deposit (if it exists) be checked without removal of the system? Just by visualization?
Hi, what torque setting did you tighten the sump pan bolts too? Thanks
8 Nm + 20’ degrees
Hi Peter, what is the part number for this oil pump? I need to replace mine.
Apologies but I don’t actually know the oil pump part number. I have ever had to replace one 😔
@@kennedysgarage3281 It's ok. I got it. SH0114100A for anyone who might need it. Thanks.
Any chance you could do a small video of slacking that chain off. It’s the only thing that’s holding me back from attempting this myself. Just so I know where to press to slacken. It.
Hi Andrew, I will do that no bother but I don’t have any Mazda’s in at the moment so it could be a few weeks before that is possible for me. But if that is the only thing stopping you don’t let it, it is quite simple. When you have the sump off mark the crank pulley to the crankcase (this pulley is not coming off). Then mark the oil pump pulley to the body of the oil pump anywhere that is easy see. The only reason for this is because of the balance shaft behind the oil pump that I show being separated from the pump. The tensioner is only spring loaded & I find a screwdriver pressed in the best, if in doubt put a zip tie on it to hold it in place.
I’ll message you if I get a video done on it and message me anytime if you get stuck while doing it. Good luck with it, Peter🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 appriciate this mate thanks. Most of it is in the video is explained. Just didn’t want the chain being messed up for when it goes back together. I’ve watched another UA-cam video and seen the the tensioner is a yellow semi oval type piece that can be pushed back a bit.
@@andypower31 I cleaned strainer without removing oil pump, with small brush and cleaning spray.
@@samostraser8924 that's a good idea what type sealant did u use to put back on mate ? I'm not sure of this is my actual issue though not long changed oil and filter I've had odd idling issue and when I get it it has a deep throaty exhaust note very odd 9ve had some rough running like iys not smooth at 60/70 but 90%+ it idles lovely almost as of its not running at all
@@kevinhancock4064 Hello, if you mean oil pan sealant, I think i used Elring Dirko HT Silikon 036.163
Hello, do I need special tool for removing the oil pump driven sprocket?
Hi Samo, it can be done without any special tools. Just mark the oil pump pulley to something that doesn’t move & refit chain in the same place. There is a balance shaft inside it but it makes very little difference even if fitted incorrectly. Hope this helps 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hello, thank you! How you hold sprocket when removing driven sprocket installation bolt?
@@samostraser8924 I use a very large pliers to grab the outside of the chain, I think you can see this in the video, also there is no key way from pump to pulley so mark the pulley to the shaft when the bolt comes out also
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hay, yes I saw pliers, but I was not sure if you also use pliers for removing or no :p. I will be very happy if you once show us, how to replace timing chain on Mazda Skyactiv-d. Have a nice day!
@@samostraser8924 I will do a video on timing chain replacement & injector removal as soon as one comes in 👍
great video mate. how much would this cost at a garage roughly?
Another chat in the comments said that the dealer was charging €690 , it would be around €400 to €500 aftermarket 💷💷
@@kennedysgarage3281 where abouts are you from, you should do this as a side line job as I'm on a Mazda Facebook forum and there are loads of people asking to have this job done
@@dmc_77 in the Sunny southeast, Waterford area to be precise.
whats torgeu specs for assembly back?
thanks
I’m only seeing this comment now after 2 months sorry 😞
Had this a couple of years ago on my 2013 model at 60k miles, lots of these having engines seize...people are lucky if they catch it in time. . Did you use a sealant when putting the sump back on?
Yes, I use a generic gasket maker / sealer it is called Dirko. Quite expensive but very good. Mostly the injector seals fail building up carbon under the rocker cover which then mixes in the oil & blocks the gauze.
@@kennedysgarage3281 I'm having the same issues with my Mazda6 2015. It lost power on the motorway last week Sunday and currently in the garage but I way have to use someone different to fix it. Mazda dealer had worked on it in the past but I doubt that part has been changed looking at the condition of build up its showing 🤔even though they said so & it's at a 124, 000 miles now. They've mentioned recall in the past but nothing around this issue if I'm correct so I have no idea where I stand with this one, maybe you could help to let me know more...? What's the likely cost for replacing / repair please?
@@boomnitejrdlynch9791 it could have lost power for lots of reasons?? Do you have any direction to go ( as in fault codes).
To replace the oil gauze wouldn’t be too expensive prior to any bearing etc. failing. €300 or €400
What happened to yours mate eml ?
couldn't you just split open the plastic housing? it looks like it has clips holding it together
I haven’t ever tried to split them, I was advised once to just replace it & that is what I have done from then on. The strainer are quite inexpensive, around €70 or €80 & then you know it is right 😉👍👍
Hope this helps same problem i managed to get the oil strainer after mechanic had taken off, then broke into with pliers, to reveal the carbon build up, so no they do not just unclip, hope this helps
@@dannyreeves5153 thanks for the info Danny 🙏👍
Nice job! Where is the oil pressure sensor on these?
At the front of the engine close to the oil filter. I’m starting to find the strainer gets clogged around 200k kms or 120k miles.
But you are right to check oil pressure first. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 My 2014 2.2 Skyactive 2.2D just had this issue and I'm at around 112,00 miles, so pretty close to your estimate. First, I got an error code P06DE - Oil pump switching low-pressure followed by a more serious error P055F - Low oil pressure abnormality. This error put the car into limp mode. A local garage changed the oil and oil filter and it was fine for about 400 miles, but then the errors came up again. I paid very close attention to the oil pressure level using ForScan Lite (Android) and a Bluetooth OBD adapter. Cheap and extremely valuable for the information it provides. The oil pressure seemed to be just below the 'low' threshold, but then suddenly dropped to under 100 kPA (14.5 psi). At this point I refused to drive the car to avoid any serious damage.
I got the car towed to my local Mazda dealer. They mentioned that it is very likely to be a clogged strainer, just as you have explained here. I'm still waiting to hear how much it's going to cost. FYI - they mentioned that the reason the car was probably ok for 400+ miles after an oil and filter change was because the new oil is thinner. I guess that makes sense. The dealer has been very good with me in the past and my car has pretty much a full Mazda dealer service history, so hopefully they'll go easy on me lol. Sorry, I know this is a bit long-winded, but hopefully it may help someone. Thanks!
@@hyper-viper absolutely brilliant info, the dealer can be very familiar with these issues because it happens so much on this engine. And I find because the technicians are so familiar with them the labour times are fast so it shouldn’t be too bad. I’d guess somewhere around €1000 to €1500 if they do injector seals & intake system de-carb. But it all sounds good, thanks for taking the time to post it 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for the reply. My engine had a de-coke done by Mazda about 6 months ago at 6 hours labour. This was just after they serviced it. I've done about 5-6,000 miles since it was serviced and I thought the engine would be running great after the de-coke and oil/filter change. Disappointing that this has happened but not much I can do about it now! Thanks :-)
@@hyper-viper it should be 3-4 hrs involved it changing oil pick up. Be sure to ask them about injector copper washers?? This is what causes the strainer to block in the first place 👍
What year mazda is this please? And I'm guessing its the 2.2 skyactiv-d?
You are correct , it’s a 2016 Mazda 6 sky active diesel
@@kennedysgarage3281 what causes so much carbon and sludge in the oil strainer?
Thanks
@@Martin-hh3ju the injector seals fail & the compression gases build up under the rocker cover as carbon. This then gets into the oil & then caught by the strainer
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks, i was told the same by another local garage, unfortunately know one in my area wants to take on the job of changing my seals, even though I've already got all the parts from mazda, I wish you were closer
@@kennedysgarage3281 Do you have to fix the injector seals as well then before doing this carbon cleaning? Is injectors a big job?
is this still a problem with latter cx5s ,say from 2018 ,, just got mine so i dont need this ,,
They say it is resolved in the newer engines & that the rear older ones were not there fines hour. Only time will tell. But I would say not to worry about yours for now, just keep it well serviced & it will be fine ✊
Thanks ,, I always over service my cars
@@steveone9375 🙂
Can those plastic strainers be opened????
No. At least not opened and then reassembled.
Lots of people try cleaning them but from what I see to no avail. They generally block due to injector washers failing so be sure to remove the rocker cover to check before replacing the strainer. It will block again if not 😉👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Thanks for your help 🙏
Hi Kennedy, I understand this was a 2016 Mazda 6 2.2D, I assume you got some DTCs and that's why you carried out the work?
What DTC did you get?
I have the exact same car at 135k Miles.
I had changed the oil 3k miles ago.
I first got a P06DE - Engine Oil Pressure control circuit stuck on, that was 1 day ago, no check engine light, no oil light, was suspecting oil solenoid valve or oil pressure/temperature sensor issue.
I was getting healthy oil pressure, was around 120-160kpa, but then would get stuck at 200kpa for a minute or so which would cause this code.
Today on the way on the way to the garage, I got P055F and P0524, which is Oil pressure out of range and Oil pressure too low, check engine light + red oil light.
Stopped immediately.
I still have my laptop with Forscan, so plugged it in, now oil pressure is below 100kpa, seen it as low as 60kpa, according to 1 of the codes, it must have been as low as 30kpa.
So now I'm suspecting Oil pump failure.
I don't think a blocked oil pick up can cause my first DTC - P06DE.
All codes still have sensor issues as common causes, but not Oil Solenoid valve, they all of course have oil pump failure as a common issue.
I'm just wondering if you had seen the P06DE DTC with this Oil pick up being blocked.
Thanks in advance.
What happened to me on this one was I was getting air flow & egr fault codes. But also the engine was quite noisy ( top end ) So I removed the injectors & cam cover to find that the injector washers were leaking badly & built up a large amount of carbon around the camshaft & caused it to fail. After replacing the camshaft & fixing injector seals/seats. I then dropped the sump to see how the carbon affected the pick up.
I haven’t seen that code before but if it was my own car, I would drop the sump & change the pickup also oil and filter. It should only take 3-4 hours, gauze is around €70 & on the shelf in main dealership. Then monitor it for a few miles to see how things act.
If pressure is back wheyhey. It could get quite expensive after that🤨
Do you know the price of a pump?
It’s Peter by the way
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hey, thanks for getting back to me.
So far doesn't sound like the same problem, I don't have valve lifter noise from top end or anything, also from what I saw through the oil fill cap, I couldn't see any carbon build up, looked fairly clean... But it ain't that big of a peep whole 😅
As far as the oil pump cost, brand new from mazda it's like £800-900.
I could get a refurbished one, the whole assembly with balancer shaft + pick up gauze for £150, or a genuine brand new seperate pump from a trusted reseller for £500.
It all depends what we find once the oil pan is dropped.
Mechanic is busy at the moment, so can't do much at the moment.
@@xegro Hello, I had almost the same situation 2 years ago and around 140.000km, now over 200.000km. Oil pickup was completely blocked, Mazda official service just changed oil pressure sensor (which I think was ok. I must trie it once, I have still somewhere at home ;)). So after I cleaned oil pump pickup strainer and changed injector seals car works super. Now I changed oil + filter every 10.000km and I regularly monitor oil pressure and DPF regeneration with Forscan. I remember that Forscan showed same DTC - P06DE and service looked like never seen this before and told me that my Chinese ELM caused this :p.
@@samostraser8924 Hey Samo,
I'm at 217k km.
In regards to what you said, since you got same code, which might have been caused by a blocked strainer, that's reassuring. I'm hoping it's just the oil strainer/pick up that's clogged. If so, I'll replace/clean it and then change injector washers. What's wierd is the oil pressure was quite healthy before the DTC codes, was easily getting 160kpa on cold start, and stayed above 120 after warmup, then suddenly I got the additional 2 DTC, and oil pressure is no longer healthy, going as low as 40-100kpa... I would have thought if the oil strainer was blocked, oil pressure would have gradually gone down over time as it got blocked more and more.
I guess maybe the oil pump increases pressure using the solenoid valve to keep up with the blockage and then it no longer can provide enough and you finally get the DTCs.
I also use Forscan, my cars been doing DPF regen every 140-160 miles, since I've been getting good MPG.
I get atleast 50mpg.
DPF Regen frequency is apparently directly linked to how many literes of fuel is used, so if you do alot of local driving, get low MPG, use alot of fuel, the DPF regen is more frequent.
Fingers crossed 🤞
I haven't checked yet, but I guess you have to remove rocker cover to remove and replace injector washer seals?
Might as well get the injectors cleaned as well while they are out.
@@xegro Hay, above 120 or even lower is to low. I am almost sure that oil pump strainer is blocked. Just remove oil pan and check. No you dont need to remove rocker covers for changing injector washer seals. Check this euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0114z7800600.html
and this for oil pan euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0111s6800200.html and all DTC euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/mazda6/20120903161818/html/id0102s4801500.html
срываете и откручиваете до упора длинный болт.берёте болгарку и его обрезаете.ставите новый маслоприёмник а на место обрезаного длинного болта ставите на 1 см.короче болт.вот и все качели.нахрен снимать балансиры?потом снимаете клапанную крышку и весь нагар вычищаете.меняете медные шайбы под форсунками и раза два масло вместе с фильтром.форсунки не перетягивайте а то полопают бугеля.если лопнул то его можно заварить.один бугель стоит 200 евро.как то так.удачи.Слава ЗСУ
I have seen this done by 1 or 2 guys but think it is a bad idea. The removal of the oil pump module is a handy job. And it is very easy to split, at least it is the done right. Try it the next time you have one in, I bet you’ll find it handy too 🤞💪💪
Jesus the Russians watch this channel 😳
@@bastogne315 all are welcome here 😊😊😊