After years of servicing my own cars, I've never checked the oil after a change and had no idea it would have taken so long to clear. You've saved me from ever having an argument with a mechanic.
But dont you check the level on the dip stick. Its almost impossible to measure what has come out of your engine(unless you collect and put the same volume of oil back in?
I Always put in 5 litres of the cheapest oil you can find and run it through for 5 minutes then empty it out and the filter ! So you need couple of filters two. Then fill with the real oil and filter. If you buy a neglected car then you might have to rinse and repeat.
You write it as 1 oil change but put complete or 100% on it, but they found that no matter what u do after 100km or 1000 km i forgot the oil turn black again because it changes because of heat.other have even use very cheap oil to clean and then add good oil last.
@@drincogniit’s mainly soot particles from the piston chamber that blacken the oil not so much the heat , most soot goes out the outlet valve but a tiny fraction enters the oil chamber & can’t be helped hence why oil is changed regularly to maintain a healthy engine 👍
Jimmy, thanks for doing this, very interesting video. I suspect regular oil changes (2-3k miles) would produce this result. Do you see any value in send off an oil same and is there a way to check quality of oil on a scan tool?
I've often wondered how many it would take to get the oil clean. Wasn't expecting five. I bet it wouldn't take many miles before that fifth sump full started to look black, the nature of diesels. That certainly made a nice engine flush
Had customers accuse me of not changing oil on their diesel engine. I even changed it again at the customers request while he watched. He didn' t know what to say then when I pulled the dip stick. No apology though, but I charged him for doing it again. The soot in a diesel engine especialy the high mile ones takes some shifting. The oil is doing its job by holding the dirt in suspension.
Avoid doing it multiple times by filming your oil change with your phone and showing customers the evidence. Customers will be glad too for not being charged multiple changes.
I love these kinds of test . Nothing excites me more than some oil . Woman would never understand . They like fresh nails and dirty oil we like clean oil and a dirty nail 😂
Seem to remember back in the day (70's), there was stuff called flushing oil, which I ran through the engine before changing the real oil. Not sure how much good it did, but I did it anyways!!!!
Nice one my old mate.....I'm amazed it took so much oil to clear the crap out....to be fair I think your average diesel is none the worse for some carbon in the oil but it's nice to see some good clean oil! Thanks buddy!
This video is good, we all wanted to know how many but wasn't brave enough to spend the coin lol. I love experiments like this. P.S. I bet the ECU was like wtf is this a new engine ha ha.
Superb test - I look forward to seeing the improved version of this vid (using coloured oil drain pan and taking samples of each oil extract) I would bet that you have settled a lot of arguments today. Top marks.
A comparison with and without an engine flush would be interesting👍 I drain the used oil out of my cars, then add new oil with the flush in it, allow to run and then hold the revs like you did, drain and then add new oil again.
@@HondasAreNotForChristmasalso far better to add the flush to the old oil, flush makes the oil far thinner, and so when you add it to fresh, already thin oil with little soot comtamination you run the risk of leaky gaskets, oil seal rings and main seals, engine flush can also breifly, but still for short periods become absorbed by various engine components, so it's best to do a 2'nd run with clean new oil and a cheap filter after a dirty oil flushed run, then drain the new oil and start over with a high grade filter. not to mention very semantic, small things like taking the car for a good harsh run and draining the oil whilst hot, pouring a small bit of fresh oil through your fill hole and dipstick tube till the oil draining from the sump plug is clear to help drain out stagnated oil depposits, and changing the oil filter between flush cycles to be sure the bypass wasn't already engaged on the dirty filter, and that any loose medium/oil flush doesn't remain in the oil after the second flush. all up this process took me 7L of oil, 2 oil filters and one new drain plug costing $165AUD on my 2013 hyundai accent with 85kms on the odo, and after a whole week of using it as my daily driver the oil is the exact same colour as fresh oil.
@@alexanderwoolley1623 That is exactly what I did on my 2.0 TDI. The new oil slowly started getting darker around 600-700 miles after that. But I've also only used Premium Diesel for the past 8000 Miles or so...
There's a volume of oil retained in the engine that doesn't drain. Look in any maintenance manual, eg. Oil change 3.5 litres, rebuild 4.1litres. So doing an oil change will mix in the retained black oil and discolour it. As you have shown, it took 5 changes to make a significant difference in colour. For anyone who doesn't appreciate a good mechanic, they should educate themselves on how engines work and how to mind them, understand the cost of buying proper tools to do the work etc. I'm lucky with the car I bought 2nd hand. (I'm 3rd owner) 1st owner I dont know service history, 2nd owner bought the car as 3year old, oil & filter done at 5000mile interval. I bought it at 12 year old with 101000miles. its now 19 year old Yaris 1.0 with 162000 miles, oil & filter every 5000miles. I got the oil analyzed by a company in Carlow at 136000miles or so (oil 5000miles old), engine is perfect, like a new one).
@@wayneross9723correct because of diesel soot blowing past the piston rings (more on older engines) My petrol car is 17 years old and the engine oil is Golden my diesel land rover is 20 years old and the oil is black even after just being changed
Well done posting this video for people who they think one oil change is enough for a car ..Changing engine oil according to the dealer specification, surely is wrong..I change engine oil on my 3 cars every 3 months four times a year, and before the my cars go for mot check I do a full service, fuel ,oil air,cabin filters. I never had a engine issue
The car manufacturer sets a service interval that gets the engine past its warranty period. They advertise the car as low maintenance compared to rivals to boost sales. If they advertised a car for sale requiring oil change every 5000miles instead of 10000miles the buyer will typically go for the 10000mile interval car thinking its a good saving. But if that buyer keeps that car for 200000miles the engine will be junk at 10000mile service intervals. Turbo'd engines should get oil changes every 3000miles & non turbo every 5000miles. Earlier than that is beneficial if you can change oil & filter yourself. Recycling centres take the old oil in my country (pay a small fee). The Car Care Nut does an excellent video on the oil change frequency, worth watching.
We all know that long life services intervals are way too long and annually or 7.5k-10k miles is much better, but every 3 months is daft , do you really have that money to burn??
I think every mechanic has been accused of this. Very good video and demonstration. I think I shall be showing this video my customers next time it happens. All the best.
@@JJ-jc8yv yea we have cameras filing each ramp. it happened to me once so i offered to show the cctv and they declined. so your accusing me of not doing something but wont let me prove my innocence? strange world we live in. Happy new year.
Well done Jimmy, great video as usual. If you don't mind me adding.... There's a UA-cam channel called Project Farm; he tests many things including oils, additives, etc. Very interesting to watch.
I have a LML Duramax 6.6 litre powered pickup in Canada, diesel powered engines have a lot of soot blow by. I use Cat filters on an adapter, they are bigger in surface area and finer filter medium. No matter what you do diesel oil becomes black quick but it’s not dirty in reality, use good quality oil and filters and you cannot go wrong.
Love this video Jimmy, i also have been accused of not changing the oil on a customers car(diesel)due to the oil still being black when he collected the vehicle
Given the shape / design of the sump, with its indented drain plug, there will always be some dirty oil left in the bottom, to mix with the new oil, plus oil in the galleries.
@@MarcLaurens1it does, this is why you keep the drain plug removed and pour a small amount of oil through the fill cap and the dipstick tube untill the oil draining from the sump is clear, wont remove 100% of the old oil sediment from the bottom of the sump but it's way better than doing 5 oil changes!
I now do my own servicing because i dont think some garages actually change oil if they can get away with it. Once i marked my oil filter and they did not do it, then they told me they did it, but did not change the filter!!! They will cheap out if they can, esp if you go regularly. Its so important for the health of your engine. Maybe its worth asking for a video or watching the service. If you truely want to know, tell them you want an oil sample to send off for analysis!!! The other issue is the quality, specification of the oil and filter they use..
Ive had to do a 'dynamic flush' and oil change on my auto gear box that was slipping and giving strange faults. I had to change it 13 TIMES! to get CLEAR red oil. As you know this is done with the engine running until a few litres of oil comes out STOPPING topping up with that amount - repeat! NICE TEST !
@@exgtt2061I've done a similar process on my car (only took 2 oil chnages, one with an oil flush added) and a week later it's still the exact same color, depends on the top cylinder condition and how much sludge the engine has.
That's awesome video Jimmy 👌👍🙏 I had this idea in my thoughts for a while but never executed it. I was thinking of using with each oil 1 bottle of engine flush and new filter every time for at least 4 oil changes and everytime to let the engine run idle for 10 to 15 mn then do the last one without oil flush but you just saved me a fortune because from your experiment the oil will always turn black after a good run. Now i have 4×5Ltrs of cheap Lidle oil and one correct good one from motor factor and 5 new oil filters and 3 bottles of oil flush was going to buy the 4th one for the operation and now sitting in my shed 🤷♂️🤭🤭 i wish i bought the 4 ones from motor factors instead as Lidle didn't have the correct one🤷♂️🤭 Great video and thanks a million for sharing this awesome video with us 🙏👌👍💯 ✌❤☘
Interesting experiment, would be good to try it again but this time using a flush to see if they actually make a difference. Also I wonder what colour the oil was after 100 miles of driving the car?
My old man used to work on the roads, when he did an oil change he would fill the engine with with diesel. Let it run for a bit and change the oil, better than any engine flush you can do. I don't go as far as filling the whole thing with diesel, but I put 1/2 litres in and run it a bit before any oil change.
I hope this is your own car. No garage would do this kind of service. wouldn't it be better to put an engine flush and and do a second oil change ?. Love your videos learnt a lot.
This is interesting. I wonder would a can of engine flush help to remove soot & burnt oil ?? I’d say using BG engine flush could reduce the No. of changes needed, before oil is a clear colour. But all n all, it’s good to know the result of this test. Thanks for the video - best wishes for 2024 & the future. Hpy New Year.
I've used the BG EPR - did a single oil change and the oil was clear. But the car is well maintained and I changed the oil before the recommended 2 years or 20000 - was more like 5000 miles or less. But yes the BG EPR is definitely a good product
He did put his front wheels on ramps, so most of the oil got out. Maybe he should've lifted front right side more than left side (drain outlet is on the bottom left side of the pan) to drain even more.
Alot of the dealers are using suction now to remove oil, so no matter how good the vacuum or hot the oil, there is always some....the dirtiest, left in the sump. Forte engine flush run for 20 min comes out like water, leave to drain while doing the rest of service. Also vac the filter housing out, 350 merc leaves 0.4 litre in the bottom. Bingo clean oil...for a short while atleast.
With diesels the easiest method to work out if it needs a oil change before it’s due is to wipe the dipstick on the back of you hand and then rub the oil off with your other hand. If the oil stains the back of your hand ( that is stays in your pores) it means the oil is carbon ladened and need replacing. If you do it again after the oil change you will see your hand won’t stay black meaning it’s not carbon ladened. Oil filter can’t filter out the carbon . I don’t know why they don’t use a centrifuge filter to spin out the carbon deposits.
Zetor tractors in the 1970s had a centrifugal filter. You took off the filter housing, scraped the carbon deposits off it and replaced the housing. It was cheap because you didnt have to replace any parts, but it was inefficient. Modern engines wouldnt tolerate that kind of badly filtered oil
@@daneenmurf1043 scania use centrifuge filter as a bypass filter. Main oil through the filter but some oil goes through a centrifuge. Ford 2.4 duratorq had them in the rocker cover aswell as a normal oil filter. It has been done before, but manufacturers don’t want you to keep vehicles ,they want you to replace when the warranty runs out. It’s the second hand buyer who cops the problems and this is generally where the dissatisfaction of the model and brand sets in.
One of the reasons for black oil, especially on a modern diesel, is a diesel requires a LOT more EGR to reduce emissions compared to a petrol (gas) engine.
Just 1 Question Jimmy . . Blow back from pistons ? (when your engine is firing - co2 - soot) is that the cause of Golden oil turning Black ? Thanks for going the extra mile . . . it would be a great idea . . to see how many days, weeks, or months it stayed golden . . . ? (possibly do a Liquid Molly engine flush - pro-line first . . . then ametech to re-coat / re-line the piston seals . . Good Luck Jimmy
Hi Jimmy , Great video, often thought of that myself, i give my 2007 mondeo mk4 20tdci x 2 oil changes a year, always thought how many till it goes clear ?
I had a 2011 Honda CRV diesel which always looked clean, my mechanic always commented about it at the service. I had a diesel BMW and currently a VW Tiguan where the oil always looks black.
In 1963 I put a Frantz toilet paper oil cleaner on my nearly new Rambler American flat head 6. The oil went from black and dirty to golden and stayed that way. I expected the same with the Peugeot diesel. It isnt happening. If the black oil doesnt stain the skin and feels clean and slick its clean. The old truckers palm test is with clean hands rub the dipstick in the palm. Rub it around. If you can feel the soot and it stains the skin its dirty. My old Ford diesel tractor still passes the palm test. The bypass filter uses half a roll of VIVA towels. If changing the filter and adding new makeup oil doesnt keep up with the soot I will drain the oil .The Pontiac is easy. It has a Australian Jackmaster Classic oil filter. Gasoline engines are easy. I have 1 micron filters. Some diesel soot is a lot smaller than 1 micron.
Thanks for that.. was looking forward to knowing the answer.. Now I have one for you. Do any engine flushes actually work or help clean the engine, are they safe to use?
Every mechanic worth his weight knows there are oil baths in the engine that never drain down, especially in the cylinder head, this is to ensure the camshafts never run dry, this is the reason for the oil being a bit dark after the oil change
Yeah. I was just thinking that if one would like to have this very clear oil status, might be cheapest way to just fill literally _completely_ full and drain it after that and do normal change. Even so, I don't think one would get fully clear oil after one change.
Cheaper way to achieve this is to run engine flush before 1st oil change. Diesels will always develop black oil, though, nature of the fuel sending black soot down the cylinders and being washed off by the oil doing it's job as it should.
Not totally related, but I change my motorcycles' engine oil and the tip that helped me, was to change it after riding hard. I used to change it after idling for 5 minutes like the manual said, and after a few days it would go from Motul 7100 red to black... Then one day I left everything ready and went for a ride with a few redlines, now it lasts for a couple of months with no noticeable discoloration.
Great video, would appreciate it big time if you could show us more videos on the newer dispatch/expert vans. There’s just no videos about on the regarding anything
Thank you for sharing. Oil colour is a guide to clean oil . Oil job is to lubricate and cool components. The detergent in the oil will remove anything that contaminates the oil like moisture and fuel. New oil regardless of colour will lube and decontaminate. Relax about the colour. The oils are good once you replaced it in doing its job. Filters are a myth fresh oil is very clean in a sealed environment and no need for a filter just a strainer and a magnet is all you need once the engine had its second service in removing any abrasive from machining and casting on new assembly. Thank you for sharing
A few decades ago (I'm that old), when engine oil was very dark and worn, most garages here would recommend a cleaning oil that would idle for a few minutes in the car, and then was drained and replaced by the final oil. That seemed to cure the rapid darkening of the new oil.
I use a flush with every service on my 2007 diesel car, let the oil drain for mins while doing other bits. Refill run check and its still looks like new oil, and it stays that way for ages. People slag of garages trying to upself flushes but they do their job
Depends on the car this one does, i flushed an engine many years ago and it pulled all the black sludge from the engine internals into the sump and blocked the oil pick up strainer causing no oil pressure, i think if you know the vehicle’s history(correct servicing)then its probably worth doing but otherwise with an un known vehicle history be very wary
please come and service our fleet of vans, if the oil stays clean by the time they get from the service bay round the corner to the yard i will drink the drained oil on youtube.
So what effect would an engine flush treatment have, am I wrong that all oils, especially diesel oil have a lot more detergents in to help clean?, after a week it would be black same as before, it's not what colour it is but how well it lubricates between changes.
Diesel engine oil is completely different from gasoline engine oil,it won’t retain that honey colour for very long due to the nature of the combustion process with diesel engines. I’ve seen new diesel engine oil turn black days after an oil change,this is completely normal.
Well, it's because always you have some old oil left in your engine. Soot acts almost like a paint. If You want clear oil (at least for some time) drain old one as well as possible. Use engine flush before changing because it helps drain oil better. Wait like 15 minutes to drip down as much as possible. When You crank your car without oil (of course for few seconds max) and open drain it will spit additional like 50-100ml. But I was so surpised when last time I cranked car like that but also without oil filter. It spit out like much more old oil I'd say 200ml or more. So when You change You still have a lot of old oil. After that new oil was almost perfectly clear for first 100km, later it gradually started to change color to black.
I've heard that oil stays cleaner after an RVS treatment. In my car it for sure dislodged a lot of contaminants, oil was almost new looking when i added the stuff, after 400km it was completely black.
I always use a flush added to the oil before draining, oil still black quickly but has obviously been changed. Lots of comments disparaging it but have done this for 20 years with no problems? Your views appreciated?
I work at an oil blending factory, so I always do a double oil change; one with basic mineral and $4 filter, and then after a drive round the block I dump and fill with the synthetic and a more expensive filter! Petrol engine so my oil is always golden, golden-brown by 6month change lol My wife doesn’t understand.
Only once had this problem from a customer. I asked him if this was the first diesel car he'd owned - it was. Never saw him again 😂. I can make your oil clean but it'll cost you £300 and will only last 20 miles 🫣. At least I can show any future non believers this video. Cheers 👍
Jimmy, thanks for doing this, a very interesting video. I suspect regular oil changes (2-3k miles) would produce this result eventually. Do you see any value in send off an oil sample and is there a way to check quality of oil on a scan tool?
You would have to change a diesel engine every 500 miles.The oil always looks black.I had a new rav 4 diesel.and oil change after 1000 mile looked blackish.
For those who are interested Where I work we service a old discovery td5 every year that does about 1500 miles a year and the oil is like the last oil change Jimmy done
I have enough oil every 3 oil changes to do a flush on the 3rd, i change it every 6.5k so when i flush it that 3rd time, it goes clear. That's on a ds4 105k been doing it since new. I change the filter twice on the 3rd service on flush oil through the filter housing and the dip stick.
I have 2001 case tractor with SISU agco engine(420d with fully mechanical stanadyne injection pump). engine has 1700h. the oil stays pretty clear, and after oil change it's clear for 100h or so. probably because the engine doesn't have egr or dpf(never had even from the factory) and is probably in perfect condition also. This is the first diesel I have seen that stays so clear.
Use an engine cleaner based on detergents and surfactants to clean lubrication conducts and deposits every three oil changes. Ravenol or Xenum engine cleaners.
Let me give you my dumbo opinion so from my experience with consumer diesels. So I noticed that diesels can run long oil change intervals, nothing wrong with that but I’m always a 3k or less interval but it comes from previous ownership of “sports turbo cars” where the turbo real regrades oil faster than we all think. So soot is like a black dye that’s natural in diesels, it clumps up and sticks to the inside of our diesels in every crevice. Even if you change the oil the new oil will break down those clumps which are concentrated dye clumps making your oil still black. The longer the intervals the more the oil has “dyed” not died in diesels. My advice like another comment as well is using an engine flush, my preferred is 1-1.5 oz per unti quart of seafoam and drive around for about for about 100 miles as the seafoam will break down those clumps of soot dye. Not there’s nothing wrong with soot in oil but I have seen in the commercial side we have torn down a few fleets trucks with way to many idling hours and the oil was just too “sooty” and thick causing a few failures. That’s where I like my 3-5k diesel oil changes. I know almost all of you will say I’m wasting money but oil is really cheap tbh and a new diesel engine is not. I alway do this for the first few oil changes on a newly purchased diesel until I get bored and flip it lol
With diesels a small amount of old sooty oil makes the new oil look dark, but in the end it's still 99+% new oil you have in that engine , the small amount of old oil really isn't going to affect the longevity of the engine. I doubt the process shown here will really clean the sump of all it's sludge on a high mile engine........ But equally if the sludge has settled on the bottom it's not going to get picked up by the oil pump - you only have to watch a few engine tear-down videos to see that. But if it bothers you take down the pan and clean it - more importantly you can check the pickup for debry in the mesh.
With my 150,000km V6 petrol car it took 3 changes, with a 50km run between each one, to get it back to new looking, and now it gets changes every 7500km and comes out almost like new each and every time. It's now got almost 200,000 on it and still looks great every 7500km (15,000km recommended change interval). Once you get that varnish and gunk out of a petrol engine it looks good for way longer, but alas diesel engines dirty oil quicker than a 5 year old's clothes in a mud pit
It’s totally normal for the oil in a diesel engine to look black. Even right after new oil was put in. It does not mean that the oil is broken down because it’s black. Totally normal. I use the Castro oil for diesels from Land Rover for my Range Rover L 405 TD 6 and have it changed every 6000 or 7000 miles.
All ICE engines use oil to cool and lubricate the internals and all oils aborb soot from the combustion process...diesels more so and thats why it turns black so quickly(in addition to any waste oil left during the oil change)..The soot bypasses the rings(on older engines especially) and soot also is fed back into the system via PCV and EGR systems not all of which get combusted or leaves via the exhaust.
How do you feel about engine flushes? I do my Mrs Fiesta TDCI every 5000miles and afterwards it always looks clear. Must of cost you a fortune in oil doing that little experiment lol😂
Love your work Jimmy!! You can put the blame squarely on the EGR for needlessly reintroducing soot and of course the blow by common on all diesels. Diesels aren't cheap to maintain.
I'm not a big fan of using engine flush additives, since they could be hard on the rubbers as leaving some residue. So this is an interesting way to flush the engine.
Man here italy, we use to drive diesel, theres no possibility that oil in diesel engine look clean, switch it on and after a second is black again and is normal is not the engine that is dirty inside like in case of gasoline, but i love this kind of crazy video 😅😂
I had petrol engines all my life until i was almost when I bought a Mercedes diesel, I’ve had it 10 years now and I always check the oil level when I get it back from service. I never questioned the fact that it was black straight away but good to know that it can be cleared at a cost but how long after that would it turn black again? I suspect not very long at all
Particularly in diesels - black looking oil isn't an indicator of poor lubrication. A more economical route to make the carbon clear out would be to use a bottle of something like Liqu Moly oil flush additive before the first oil drop and just change it once. I get that that's not the point of this video - which is well made. Are you from Co Clare by any chance?
Also good cleaning solution for really dirty engine is flush all after change with 50:50 mix cheapest oil with diesel fuel (you can also add engine flush if you want). Run it for 30 minutes on idle with slight revving (like up to 2-2.5krpm max). Than drain it, change oil filter of course (can be cheap one), put normal cheap oil and drive like 200-500km on it (just moderatelly, avoid high load and high rpm). Then drain it, change filter for good one and put good oil up to the next normal oil change. Why 50:50 mix with diesel? Because pure diesel maitain weak oil pressure and even if it cleans better it will not flow as good in engine to flush most part with it. Also it's more risk to worse lubrication. Mixing like that will still keep you good oil pressure (on healthy engine of course) with good flow and it will splash everywhere inside engine well to clean it as good as possible without disassembly. Then cheap oil is for additional cleaning but also to remove all remaining diesel fuel from engine to not contaminate good new oil.
Hi, i'm not a mechanic but i did suggest an engine flush to my mechanic when he serviced my (old 2005) van and he said it can actually do more harm than good, especially on an older engine as the soot/gunk may be sealing any bad seals.
I wish that I was closer to your shop to have my Toyota HiAce oil replaced from one of these jugs! I change the oil every 5,000 Km or 6 months, perhaps I could change it every 3,000 Km to do a “flush” instead!
And then you could get some engine flush like Liqui moly pro line and you must start again with oil changing to get it clean again. I tried it in My Audi 3.0 tdi.
After years of servicing my own cars, I've never checked the oil after a change and had no idea it would have taken so long to clear. You've saved me from ever having an argument with a mechanic.
But dont you check the level on the dip stick. Its almost impossible to measure what has come out of your engine(unless you collect and put the same volume of oil back in?
@@neildean7515 yeah, I guess. Just never really given it much thought as I knew I just changed it...
I Always put in 5 litres of the cheapest oil you can find and run it through for 5 minutes then empty it out and the filter ! So you need couple of filters two. Then fill with the real oil and filter. If you buy a neglected car then you might have to rinse and repeat.
Or best one 3-400 ml of diesel inside of the engine,running like 5-6 min,drain and leave to be empty everything and after do the oil change
5 oil changes in 9 minutes that will look good in the service book 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Won’t have to change the oil for the next 5 years now 😂😂
You write it as 1 oil change but put complete or 100% on it, but they found that no matter what u do after 100km or 1000 km i forgot the oil turn black again because it changes because of heat.other have even use very cheap oil to clean and then add good oil last.
@@drincognichanges colour only after 3-4000 kms after oil get clear esp if u are on highway miles
@@drincogniit’s mainly soot particles from the piston chamber that blacken the oil not so much the heat , most soot goes out the outlet valve but a tiny fraction enters the oil chamber & can’t be helped hence why oil is changed regularly to maintain a healthy engine 👍
well Jimmy, you promised us you'd do it. I'm impressed at the lengths you go to to satisfy subscribers.
Jimmy, thanks for doing this, very interesting video. I suspect regular oil changes (2-3k miles) would produce this result. Do you see any value in send off an oil same and is there a way to check quality of oil on a scan tool?
I've often wondered how many it would take to get the oil clean. Wasn't expecting five. I bet it wouldn't take many miles before that fifth sump full started to look black, the nature of diesels. That certainly made a nice engine flush
Diesel oils would look like honey after 5k miles if it didn't have the EPA crap on it
@@ajs96350 why do you think that?
@@g0fvt Personal experience.
Same truck, with/without.
@@ajs96350 thanks for the reply so you believe the emissions equipment is contaminating the oil?
Had customers accuse me of not changing oil on their diesel engine. I even changed it again at the customers request while he watched. He didn' t know what to say then when I pulled the dip stick. No apology though, but I charged him for doing it again. The soot in a diesel engine especialy the high mile ones takes some shifting. The oil is doing its job by holding the dirt in suspension.
Avoid doing it multiple times by filming your oil change with your phone and showing customers the evidence. Customers will be glad too for not being charged multiple changes.
From my experience as a mechanic,,, oil will never look clean,, it's doing its job of cleaning, a detergent, well done Jimmy
Great video! I've always wondered how many oil changes it would take for a diesel to show clean oil. Thanks for showing this
Thank you!
I love these kinds of test . Nothing excites me more than some oil . Woman would never understand . They like fresh nails and dirty oil we like clean oil and a dirty nail 😂
Seem to remember back in the day (70's), there was stuff called flushing oil, which I ran through the engine before changing the real oil. Not sure how much good it did, but I did it anyways!!!!
Nice one my old mate.....I'm amazed it took so much oil to clear the crap out....to be fair I think your average diesel is none the worse for some carbon in the oil but it's nice to see some good clean oil! Thanks buddy!
Thanks 👍
you go the extra mile for your viewers, well done sir, love the videos.
Nice one Jim have wondered about this quandary myself over the years. All the best keep the vids coming in 2024!
Thanks, will do!
This video is good, we all wanted to know how many but wasn't brave enough to spend the coin lol. I love experiments like this. P.S. I bet the ECU was like wtf is this a new engine ha ha.
Superb test - I look forward to seeing the improved version of this vid (using coloured oil drain pan and taking samples of each oil extract) I would bet that you have settled a lot of arguments today. Top marks.
A comparison with and without an engine flush would be interesting👍
I drain the used oil out of my cars, then add new oil with the flush in it, allow to run and then hold the revs like you did, drain and then add new oil again.
Idling when you flush
@@14KiloWhisky its brief. Not holding it full rev for 5 minutes lol
@@HondasAreNotForChristmas 😂
@@HondasAreNotForChristmasalso far better to add the flush to the old oil, flush makes the oil far thinner, and so when you add it to fresh, already thin oil with little soot comtamination you run the risk of leaky gaskets, oil seal rings and main seals, engine flush can also breifly, but still for short periods become absorbed by various engine components, so it's best to do a 2'nd run with clean new oil and a cheap filter after a dirty oil flushed run, then drain the new oil and start over with a high grade filter.
not to mention very semantic, small things like taking the car for a good harsh run and draining the oil whilst hot, pouring a small bit of fresh oil through your fill hole and dipstick tube till the oil draining from the sump plug is clear to help drain out stagnated oil depposits, and changing the oil filter between flush cycles to be sure the bypass wasn't already engaged on the dirty filter, and that any loose medium/oil flush doesn't remain in the oil after the second flush.
all up this process took me 7L of oil, 2 oil filters and one new drain plug costing $165AUD on my 2013 hyundai accent with 85kms on the odo, and after a whole week of using it as my daily driver the oil is the exact same colour as fresh oil.
@@alexanderwoolley1623 That is exactly what I did on my 2.0 TDI. The new oil slowly started getting darker around 600-700 miles after that. But I've also only used Premium Diesel for the past 8000 Miles or so...
Thank you for testing this Jimmy
There's a volume of oil retained in the engine that doesn't drain. Look in any maintenance manual, eg. Oil change 3.5 litres, rebuild 4.1litres. So doing an oil change will mix in the retained black oil and discolour it. As you have shown, it took 5 changes to make a significant difference in colour. For anyone who doesn't appreciate a good mechanic, they should educate themselves on how engines work and how to mind them, understand the cost of buying proper tools to do the work etc. I'm lucky with the car I bought 2nd hand. (I'm 3rd owner) 1st owner I dont know service history, 2nd owner bought the car as 3year old, oil & filter done at 5000mile interval. I bought it at 12 year old with 101000miles. its now 19 year old Yaris 1.0 with 162000 miles, oil & filter every 5000miles. I got the oil analyzed by a company in Carlow at 136000miles or so (oil 5000miles old), engine is perfect, like a new one).
Petrol engines are always cleaner oil than diesel
@@wayneross9723correct because of diesel soot blowing past the piston rings (more on older engines)
My petrol car is 17 years old and the engine oil is Golden my diesel land rover is 20 years old and the oil is black even after just being changed
@superchickensoup I had a bmw in the 80s 320i straight 6
When I changed the oil it was always clear what a fantastic engine
What’s the name of that place in Carlow to check the oil? I have a bike and a car I want done.
@@john-qy5si tellabs, tullow, co. carlow
Well done posting this video for people who they think one oil change is enough for a car ..Changing engine oil according to the dealer specification, surely is wrong..I change engine oil on my 3 cars every 3 months four times a year, and before the my cars go for mot check I do a full service, fuel ,oil air,cabin filters. I never had a engine issue
The car manufacturer sets a service interval that gets the engine past its warranty period. They advertise the car as low maintenance compared to rivals to boost sales. If they advertised a car for sale requiring oil change every 5000miles instead of 10000miles the buyer will typically go for the 10000mile interval car thinking its a good saving. But if that buyer keeps that car for 200000miles the engine will be junk at 10000mile service intervals. Turbo'd engines should get oil changes every 3000miles & non turbo every 5000miles. Earlier than that is beneficial if you can change oil & filter yourself. Recycling centres take the old oil in my country (pay a small fee).
The Car Care Nut does an excellent video on the oil change frequency, worth watching.
@@TeezerDriz That's nuts, I've engines of all sorts on 200k plus miles in our family that have had every 10k or annually , no issues at all.
We all know that long life services intervals are way too long and annually or 7.5k-10k miles is much better, but every 3 months is daft , do you really have that money to burn??
I think every mechanic has been accused of this. Very good video and demonstration. I think I shall be showing this video my customers next time it happens. All the best.
Cameras inside garage helps to prove is well so good idea have some fitted if not got sonme yet.
@@JJ-jc8yv yea we have cameras filing each ramp. it happened to me once so i offered to show the cctv and they declined. so your accusing me of not doing something but wont let me prove my innocence? strange world we live in. Happy new year.
Today was a learning day. Saved me having a word with garage who just changed my oil and filter.
Well done Jimmy, great video as usual. If you don't mind me adding.... There's a UA-cam channel called Project Farm; he tests many things including oils, additives, etc. Very interesting to watch.
I have a LML Duramax 6.6 litre powered pickup in Canada, diesel powered engines have a lot of soot blow by. I use Cat filters on an adapter, they are bigger in surface area and finer filter medium.
No matter what you do diesel oil becomes black quick but it’s not dirty in reality, use good quality oil and filters and you cannot go wrong.
It's similar process when servicing an automatic gearbox with torque converter. Multiple oil changes are the best way to properly replace the oil.
Or "Dynamic Oil Change" with special machine.
To compensate for the black drain pan you could put white plastic or silver foil in the bottom for light to reflect off.
Yeah or put a sample in a glass beaker.
I’ve been waiting for this, true to your word Jimmy, was it the same filter 🥇🚀
Love this video Jimmy, i also have been accused of not changing the oil on a customers car(diesel)due to the oil still being black when he collected the vehicle
Well now you know to change it five times in a row and it'll be fine
You can now show a customer Jimmys video… or charge them 5 times the price to get the result they want!!!
I did this myself about 2004 on a 3 year old sprinter. It took me 3 goes on that. The difference was I used flush b4 each run, drain and refill.
Given the shape / design of the sump, with its indented drain plug, there will always be some dirty oil left in the bottom, to mix with the new oil, plus oil in the galleries.
Was wondering if some sort of soot sediment could form at bottom of sump
@@MarcLaurens1it does, this is why you keep the drain plug removed and pour a small amount of oil through the fill cap and the dipstick tube untill the oil draining from the sump is clear, wont remove 100% of the old oil sediment from the bottom of the sump but it's way better than doing 5 oil changes!
Nice one, next customer that complains their oil hasn’t been changed direct them to this video.
I now do my own servicing because i dont think some garages actually change oil if they can get away with it. Once i marked my oil filter and they did not do it, then they told me they did it, but did not change the filter!!! They will cheap out if they can, esp if you go regularly. Its so important for the health of your engine. Maybe its worth asking for a video or watching the service. If you truely want to know, tell them you want an oil sample to send off for analysis!!! The other issue is the quality, specification of the oil and filter they use..
Ive poured diesel through the engine before to clean it and it done the job..plus the new oil stayed cleaner longer 👍
Ive had to do a 'dynamic flush' and oil change on my auto gear box that was slipping and giving strange faults. I had to change it 13 TIMES! to get CLEAR red oil. As you know this is done with the engine running until a few litres of oil comes out STOPPING topping up with that amount - repeat! NICE TEST !
Drain oil ..Fill with diesel...run for two minutes on tick over...drain ...change filter..Fill with oil ...Job done 🎉
Do a daily check on the dipstick(provided the car is being used) to see how long it takes to go black again
About a week 👍
Literally minutes
@@exgtt2061I've done a similar process on my car (only took 2 oil chnages, one with an oil flush added) and a week later it's still the exact same color, depends on the top cylinder condition and how much sludge the engine has.
@@Ben-in6qhaye but it’s got to flush out the shite right ? Especially if don’t know history
Where did u get that sump plug removal tool?
Great tool!
Laser tools 6652
@@ORileysAutos thanks
That's awesome video Jimmy 👌👍🙏
I had this idea in my thoughts for a while but never executed it.
I was thinking of using with each oil 1 bottle of engine flush and new filter every time for at least 4 oil changes and everytime to let the engine run idle for 10 to 15 mn then do the last one without oil flush but you just saved me a fortune because from your experiment the oil will always turn black after a good run.
Now i have 4×5Ltrs of cheap Lidle oil and one correct good one from motor factor and 5 new oil filters and 3 bottles of oil flush was going to buy the 4th one for the operation and now sitting in my shed 🤷♂️🤭🤭 i wish i bought the 4 ones from motor factors instead as Lidle didn't have the correct one🤷♂️🤭
Great video and thanks a million for sharing this awesome video with us 🙏👌👍💯
✌❤☘
i used engine flush and it started an oil leak.
What a waste of good engine oil
Interesting experiment, would be good to try it again but this time using a flush to see if they actually make a difference.
Also I wonder what colour the oil was after 100 miles of driving the car?
My old man used to work on the roads, when he did an oil change he would fill the engine with with diesel. Let it run for a bit and change the oil, better than any engine flush you can do. I don't go as far as filling the whole thing with diesel, but I put 1/2 litres in and run it a bit before any oil change.
I hope this is your own car. No garage would do this kind of service. wouldn't it be better to put an engine flush and and do a second oil change ?. Love your videos learnt a lot.
This is interesting.
I wonder would a can of engine flush help to remove soot & burnt oil ??
I’d say using BG engine flush could reduce the No. of changes needed, before oil is a clear colour.
But all n all, it’s good to know the result of this test.
Thanks for the video - best wishes for 2024 & the future.
Hpy New Year.
I've used the BG EPR - did a single oil change and the oil was clear. But the car is well maintained and I changed the oil before the recommended 2 years or 20000 - was more like 5000 miles or less. But yes the BG EPR is definitely a good product
The oil drain plug outlet looks to be an inch higher than the bottom of the oil pan. I wonder how much of the dirtiest oil is left in the bottom.
He did put his front wheels on ramps, so most of the oil got out. Maybe he should've lifted front right side more than left side (drain outlet is on the bottom left side of the pan) to drain even more.
It gets mixed up pretty well when he runs the engine
Congratulations on the lottery win Jimmy 😎
😂😂😂😂
Interesting experiment 👍
And use one BG oil flush and one more video just coz your the man
Great vid I always wanted to know. Let's see how long it stays golden.
I'd guess 2 miles
Alot of the dealers are using suction now to remove oil, so no matter how good the vacuum or hot the oil, there is always some....the dirtiest, left in the sump. Forte engine flush run for 20 min comes out like water, leave to drain while doing the rest of service.
Also vac the filter housing out, 350 merc leaves 0.4 litre in the bottom. Bingo clean oil...for a short while atleast.
With diesels the easiest method to work out if it needs a oil change before it’s due is to wipe the dipstick on the back of you hand and then rub the oil off with your other hand. If the oil stains the back of your hand ( that is stays in your pores) it means the oil is carbon ladened and need replacing. If you do it again after the oil change you will see your hand won’t stay black meaning it’s not carbon ladened. Oil filter can’t filter out the carbon . I don’t know why they don’t use a centrifuge filter to spin out the carbon deposits.
Filters catch deposits bigger than X. So some of those really small pieces are sustained in oil & get past filter media.
Zetor tractors in the 1970s had a centrifugal filter. You took off the filter housing, scraped the carbon deposits off it and replaced the housing. It was cheap because you didnt have to replace any parts, but it was inefficient. Modern engines wouldnt tolerate that kind of badly filtered oil
@@daneenmurf1043 scania use centrifuge filter as a bypass filter. Main oil through the filter but some oil goes through a centrifuge. Ford 2.4 duratorq had them in the rocker cover aswell as a normal oil filter. It has been done before, but manufacturers don’t want you to keep vehicles ,they want you to replace when the warranty runs out. It’s the second hand buyer who cops the problems and this is generally where the dissatisfaction of the model and brand sets in.
One of the reasons for black oil, especially on a modern diesel, is a diesel requires a LOT more EGR to reduce emissions compared to a petrol (gas) engine.
Egr delete👌😂
@@HondasAreNotForChristmasBut that would be a MOT failure.
@khalilrazak6486 what are MOT failures😉😂
@@HondasAreNotForChristmas An 'MOT failure' is when a vehicle fails the annual vehicle inspection or 'MOT Test' in the United Kingdom, Europe.
@DelticEngine I assumed the 😉 would have shown the sarcasm.
Just like to wish you and your family seasonal greetings and all the best for 2024 👍
Always wondered about this Jimmie. Thanks for all the good videos and Happy New Year.
Happy new year!
Just 1 Question Jimmy . . Blow back from pistons ? (when your engine is firing - co2 - soot) is that the cause of Golden oil turning Black ? Thanks for going the extra mile . . . it would be a great idea . . to see how many days, weeks, or months it stayed golden . . . ? (possibly do a Liquid Molly engine flush - pro-line first . . . then ametech to re-coat / re-line the piston seals . . Good Luck Jimmy
Blowby mate, a blowback is something weed smokers do 😂
Hi Jimmy , Great video, often thought of that myself, i give my 2007 mondeo mk4 20tdci x 2 oil changes a year, always thought how many till it goes clear ?
I had a 2011 Honda CRV diesel which always looked clean, my mechanic always commented about it at the service. I had a diesel BMW and currently a VW Tiguan where the oil always looks black.
I had an Alfa 2.4 jtd that always had clean oil.
In 1963 I put a Frantz toilet paper oil cleaner on my nearly new Rambler American flat head 6. The oil went from black and dirty to golden and stayed that way. I expected the same with the Peugeot diesel. It isnt happening. If the black oil doesnt stain the skin and feels clean and slick its clean. The old truckers palm test is with clean hands rub the dipstick in the palm. Rub it around. If you can feel the soot and it stains the skin its dirty. My old Ford diesel tractor still passes the palm test. The bypass filter uses half a roll of VIVA towels. If changing the filter and adding new makeup oil doesnt keep up with the soot I will drain the oil .The Pontiac is easy. It has a Australian Jackmaster Classic oil filter. Gasoline engines are easy. I have 1 micron filters. Some diesel soot is a lot smaller than 1 micron.
Thanks for that.. was looking forward to knowing the answer.. Now I have one for you. Do any engine flushes actually work or help clean the engine, are they safe to use?
Every mechanic worth his weight knows there are oil baths in the engine that never drain down, especially in the cylinder head, this is to ensure the camshafts never run dry, this is the reason for the oil being a bit dark after the oil change
Yeah. I was just thinking that if one would like to have this very clear oil status, might be cheapest way to just fill literally _completely_ full and drain it after that and do normal change. Even so, I don't think one would get fully clear oil after one change.
Cheaper way to achieve this is to run engine flush before 1st oil change. Diesels will always develop black oil, though, nature of the fuel sending black soot down the cylinders and being washed off by the oil doing it's job as it should.
Not totally related, but I change my motorcycles' engine oil and the tip that helped me, was to change it after riding hard. I used to change it after idling for 5 minutes like the manual said, and after a few days it would go from Motul 7100 red to black... Then one day I left everything ready and went for a ride with a few redlines, now it lasts for a couple of months with no noticeable discoloration.
Great video, would appreciate it big time if you could show us more videos on the newer dispatch/expert vans. There’s just no videos about on the regarding anything
Thank you for sharing. Oil colour is a guide to clean oil . Oil job is to lubricate and cool components. The detergent in the oil will remove anything that contaminates the oil like moisture and fuel. New oil regardless of colour will lube and decontaminate. Relax about the colour. The oils are good once you replaced it in doing its job. Filters are a myth fresh oil is very clean in a sealed environment and no need for a filter just a strainer and a magnet is all you need once the engine had its second service in removing any abrasive from machining and casting on new assembly. Thank you for sharing
A few decades ago (I'm that old), when engine oil was very dark and worn, most garages here would recommend a cleaning oil that would idle for a few minutes in the car, and then was drained and replaced by the final oil. That seemed to cure the rapid darkening of the new oil.
Same as i do, change filter put in cleaning oil let run for 20 minutes then new oil and filter.
@@andriandrason1318 👍
What’s a cleaning oil? Cheap oil with additive? Any recommendations?
In the past I have put a couple of cups of diesel or or paraffin in the engine and let it idle (only) to help clean .
@@GR-uy1hx As long as the residues left, don't hinder the new oil.
I use a flush with every service on my 2007 diesel car, let the oil drain for mins while doing other bits. Refill run check and its still looks like new oil, and it stays that way for ages. People slag of garages trying to upself flushes but they do their job
Depends on the car this one does, i flushed an engine many years ago and it pulled all the black sludge from the engine internals into the sump and blocked the oil pick up strainer causing no oil pressure, i think if you know the vehicle’s history(correct servicing)then its probably worth doing but otherwise with an un known vehicle history be very wary
please come and service our fleet of vans, if the oil stays clean by the time they get from the service bay round the corner to the yard i will drink the drained oil on youtube.
@@steveguest8028that’s super correct! I would only do this if the SH car I have is under WARRANTY! Sorry it happened to you…
So what effect would an engine flush treatment have, am I wrong that all oils, especially diesel oil have a lot more detergents in to help clean?, after a week it would be black same as before, it's not what colour it is but how well it lubricates between changes.
Diesel engine oil is completely different from gasoline engine oil,it won’t retain that honey colour for very long due to the nature of the combustion process with diesel engines. I’ve seen new diesel engine oil turn black days after an oil change,this is completely normal.
A wonderful video. Can I ask please what your thoughts are on using an Engine Oil Flush treatment?
Yes I'd recommend it
I recommend always use engine flush
Well, it's because always you have some old oil left in your engine. Soot acts almost like a paint. If You want clear oil (at least for some time) drain old one as well as possible. Use engine flush before changing because it helps drain oil better. Wait like 15 minutes to drip down as much as possible.
When You crank your car without oil (of course for few seconds max) and open drain it will spit additional like 50-100ml. But I was so surpised when last time I cranked car like that but also without oil filter. It spit out like much more old oil I'd say 200ml or more. So when You change You still have a lot of old oil.
After that new oil was almost perfectly clear for first 100km, later it gradually started to change color to black.
nice expensive video jimmy ...but interesting results
did you change the filter on every oil change as the filter housing holds about half a litre of oil ! very interesting.
I've heard that oil stays cleaner after an RVS treatment.
In my car it for sure dislodged a lot of contaminants, oil was almost new looking when i added the stuff, after 400km it was completely black.
I always use a flush added to the oil before draining, oil still black quickly but has obviously been changed. Lots of comments disparaging it but have done this for 20 years with no problems?
Your views appreciated?
I work at an oil blending factory, so I always do a double oil change; one with basic mineral and $4 filter, and then after a drive round the block I dump and fill with the synthetic and a more expensive filter! Petrol engine so my oil is always golden, golden-brown by 6month change lol
My wife doesn’t understand.
Only once had this problem from a customer. I asked him if this was the first diesel car he'd owned - it was. Never saw him again 😂.
I can make your oil clean but it'll cost you £300 and will only last 20 miles 🫣.
At least I can show any future non believers this video. Cheers 👍
Thank you for comparing....
No worries!
With most modern day vehicles fitted with electronic oil level & no dipstick as per my 2010 Range Rover TDI, it is impossible to check the oil.
Jimmy, thanks for doing this, a very interesting video. I suspect regular oil changes
(2-3k miles) would produce this result eventually. Do you see any value in send off an oil sample and is there a way to check quality of oil on a scan tool?
You would have to change a diesel engine every 500 miles.The oil always looks black.I had a new rav 4 diesel.and oil change after 1000 mile looked blackish.
For those who are interested Where I work we service a old discovery td5 every year that does about 1500 miles a year and the oil is like the last oil change Jimmy done
Amazing! Who knew?! Certainly not me!
This must be the most expensive way to clean an oil filter. Or did you change it every time?
I have enough oil every 3 oil changes to do a flush on the 3rd, i change it every 6.5k so when i flush it that 3rd time, it goes clear. That's on a ds4 105k been doing it since new. I change the filter twice on the 3rd service on flush oil through the filter housing and the dip stick.
I have 2001 case tractor with SISU agco engine(420d with fully mechanical stanadyne injection pump). engine has 1700h. the oil stays pretty clear, and after oil change it's clear for 100h or so. probably because the engine doesn't have egr or dpf(never had even from the factory) and is probably in perfect condition also. This is the first diesel I have seen that stays so clear.
I've never seen a used diesel that had clear oil.
It will be black again in a few miles, only needs a tiny bit if soot to colour the oil. I would be more worried about the water in the oil @5:36
Use an engine cleaner based on detergents and surfactants to clean lubrication conducts and deposits every three oil changes. Ravenol or Xenum engine cleaners.
Let me give you my dumbo opinion so from my experience with consumer diesels. So I noticed that diesels can run long oil change intervals, nothing wrong with that but I’m always a 3k or less interval but it comes from previous ownership of “sports turbo cars” where the turbo real regrades oil faster than we all think. So soot is like a black dye that’s natural in diesels, it clumps up and sticks to the inside of our diesels in every crevice. Even if you change the oil the new oil will break down those clumps which are concentrated dye clumps making your oil still black. The longer the intervals the more the oil has “dyed” not died in diesels. My advice like another comment as well is using an engine flush, my preferred is 1-1.5 oz per unti quart of seafoam and drive around for about for about 100 miles as the seafoam will break down those clumps of soot dye. Not there’s nothing wrong with soot in oil but I have seen in the commercial side we have torn down a few fleets trucks with way to many idling hours and the oil was just too “sooty” and thick causing a few failures. That’s where I like my 3-5k diesel oil changes. I know almost all of you will say I’m wasting money but oil is really cheap tbh and a new diesel engine is not. I alway do this for the first few oil changes on a newly purchased diesel until I get bored and flip it lol
With diesels a small amount of old sooty oil makes the new oil look dark, but in the end it's still 99+% new oil you have in that engine , the small amount of old oil really isn't going to affect the longevity of the engine. I doubt the process shown here will really clean the sump of all it's sludge on a high mile engine........ But equally if the sludge has settled on the bottom it's not going to get picked up by the oil pump - you only have to watch a few engine tear-down videos to see that. But if it bothers you take down the pan and clean it - more importantly you can check the pickup for debry in the mesh.
I use BG products EPR oil flush it's brilliant. Nice clean oil after 1 change on a diesel.
Can’t believe it five times good bit of information
With my 150,000km V6 petrol car it took 3 changes, with a 50km run between each one, to get it back to new looking, and now it gets changes every 7500km and comes out almost like new each and every time. It's now got almost 200,000 on it and still looks great every 7500km (15,000km recommended change interval). Once you get that varnish and gunk out of a petrol engine it looks good for way longer, but alas diesel engines dirty oil quicker than a 5 year old's clothes in a mud pit
It’s totally normal for the oil in a diesel engine to look black. Even right after new oil was put in. It does not mean that the oil is broken down because it’s black. Totally normal. I use the Castro oil for diesels from Land Rover for my Range Rover L 405 TD 6 and have it changed every 6000 or 7000 miles.
How can anybody hope for clean oil, the emmision systems make the engine eat its own shit from
the first start up.
All ICE engines use oil to cool and lubricate the internals and all oils aborb soot from the combustion process...diesels more so and thats why it turns black so quickly(in addition to any waste oil left during the oil change)..The soot bypasses the rings(on older engines especially) and soot also is fed back into the system via PCV and EGR systems not all of which get combusted or leaves via the exhaust.
I know.@@malcolmyoung7866
How do you feel about engine flushes? I do my Mrs Fiesta TDCI every 5000miles and afterwards it always looks clear. Must of cost you a fortune in oil doing that little experiment lol😂
I normally use a litre of diesel
Love your work Jimmy!!
You can put the blame squarely on the EGR for needlessly reintroducing soot and of course the blow by common on all diesels. Diesels aren't cheap to maintain.
I'm not a big fan of using engine flush additives, since they could be hard on the rubbers as leaving some residue. So this is an interesting way to flush the engine.
I use diesel in my van engine to flush
Man here italy, we use to drive diesel, theres no possibility that oil in diesel engine look clean, switch it on and after a second is black again and is normal is not the engine that is dirty inside like in case of gasoline, but i love this kind of crazy video 😅😂
Nice 1 Jimmy 💪🚗🔥
I had petrol engines all my life until i was almost when I bought a Mercedes diesel, I’ve had it 10 years now and I always check the oil level when I get it back from service. I never questioned the fact that it was black straight away but good to know that it can be cleared at a cost but how long after that would it turn black again? I suspect not very long at all
Did you change the filter each time? Would you recommend a flush before an oil change? 🙂
Particularly in diesels - black looking oil isn't an indicator of poor lubrication. A more economical route to make the carbon clear out would be to use a bottle of something like Liqu Moly oil flush additive before the first oil drop and just change it once. I get that that's not the point of this video - which is well made. Are you from Co Clare by any chance?
Also good cleaning solution for really dirty engine is flush all after change with 50:50 mix cheapest oil with diesel fuel (you can also add engine flush if you want). Run it for 30 minutes on idle with slight revving (like up to 2-2.5krpm max). Than drain it, change oil filter of course (can be cheap one), put normal cheap oil and drive like 200-500km on it (just moderatelly, avoid high load and high rpm). Then drain it, change filter for good one and put good oil up to the next normal oil change.
Why 50:50 mix with diesel? Because pure diesel maitain weak oil pressure and even if it cleans better it will not flow as good in engine to flush most part with it. Also it's more risk to worse lubrication. Mixing like that will still keep you good oil pressure (on healthy engine of course) with good flow and it will splash everywhere inside engine well to clean it as good as possible without disassembly. Then cheap oil is for additional cleaning but also to remove all remaining diesel fuel from engine to not contaminate good new oil.
Hi Jimmy, would you recommend doing and engine flush at each oil change to remove the soot?
Hi, i'm not a mechanic but i did suggest an engine flush to my mechanic when he serviced my (old 2005) van and he said it can actually do more harm than good, especially on an older engine as the soot/gunk may be sealing any bad seals.
I use diesel fuel as an engine flush
I wish that I was closer to your shop to have my Toyota HiAce oil replaced from one of these jugs!
I change the oil every 5,000 Km or 6 months, perhaps I could change it every 3,000 Km to do a “flush” instead!
Like the 'gismo' to get the drain plug out of the way without having to use hands.
And then you could get some engine flush like Liqui moly pro line and you must start again with oil changing to get it clean again. I tried it in My Audi 3.0 tdi.