Holy moly!! That's a giant assortment of tools, my good Sir. And it doesn't stop there, them being neatly placed doesn't aggravate your viewer's (myself included) OCD 😂 Big job to undertake, but with the correct tools and knowledge which you have, i'd say, it's just another weekend to work on your lovely Macan.
Thanks man! Getting tools organized takes a lot of time, but the time saved after is probably 10-fold. First time I did this job in 2021 it took me like 6 hours. This time I did it in 2. As always thank you for watching and for your support!
🥴🥴 I had my coolant pump failure about a month ago, unfortunately i ignored the squeaky noise for a lil too long and ended up damaging the water pump pulley which then ripped the belt off the pulleys... 😭😭.Great video..!!
@@rickyfredericks9694 Wow! Thanks for sharing your story! Yes, those squeaky noises should not be ignored for long. In my case, I wanted to confirm that the noise was actually coming from the pump, so I used a stethoscope and it was in fact the pump. A good way to confirm. You can also use a long screwdriver against the pump and placing your ear on the handle (to hear).
I was planning on changing the serpentine belt with this job (I have the new one), but decided to delay. The current belt seems OK, but it is in my list to do. I’m gonna probably have to remove the radiator fan module to get more space there. I don’t think it can be done without creating that space.
@@porscheDIY It can be done, but it's much better to put the vehicle into 'service position' which requires removing the bumper etc. Porsche designed it this way and it's a good idea for getting in there anyway to remove any dirt or road debris that may have built up into the condensor, radiators, etc. Frankly, this WHOLE job is usually easier for the DIY person, to just do it all at once. It's a full days work for the average garage mechanic but it takes care of 'most' of the common problem and wear items and avoids you needing to do the same tasks multiple times.
@@thepacketnarc7634 unfortunately, the "service position" is still terrible as there isn't much space... I'm thinking it might actually be easier to remove the radiator completely
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your tool arsenal. On another note; I replaced both timing chain cover bolts (one was broken) and cleaned up the engine. I’ve noticed oil continue leaking on the front (driver side). The bolt I replaced is dry. I cannot figure out where the oil leak is coming from. Have you experienced oil leak coming from the camshaft sensors? Is this common? And also how common is a leak from the valve gasket? Any tips will be forever appreciated. Thanks.
When I replaced the two timing chain bolts for the first time, it continued leaking (although less) after. The leak was coming through the new bolt thread. I decided to get high temperature thread sealant from a local Autozone. Removed the bolt, added the sealant to the threads, and reinstalled/retorqued. Waited 24 hours, and then tested again. To this day (3 or 4 years after) no leak. On the other question, I have only experienced some low level sweating of the valve cover gasket. Not enough to be considered a leak. I cleaned it and it hasn’t come back. So I left it alone. This is not as common as the timing chain cover leak, but it happens. Thanks for your kind words and for your support!
Santirx, I keep hearing you're THE MAN! I am going through this with my GTS; however, my leak is coming from my thermostat housing (2 gaskets going into the engine block). Any help with instructions to remove the housing and replace those gaskets. The pulley came off smooth, the water pump as well. But the thermostat itself crack and broke when removing it, all good, it's out. Now I am trying to stop unplugging sensors and hidden T10 torx screws to get the housing out.
@@OmarRebaza You will need to remove the throttle valve and intake plenum to get access to the 4 bolts you need to remove from the top of the housing, which secures the housing to the engine block. One of these 4 bolts is below one of the smallest tubings coming out of the housing so you will probably have to remove that tubing from the housing to get access. You will also need to disconnect the 3 hoses that go into the housing. Once you remove the 4 bolts, you should be able to lift the housing enough to replace the 2 o-rings on the engine block. Sorry to hear. This is a pretty involved job, but doable.
@@porscheDIY I knew you were the man. Yes, there are some clips with wires over those the four bolts. Some of the hoses are very short and hard to bend, but I will use your guidance to get that thing off. I appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Update: It was indeed a pain in rear to remove the four bolts (of death) that hold the thermostat housing. The housing loose now; however, there is a long pipe that comes from the rear of the housing towards the firewall. It's about 18-20 inches long. It is connected to another hose with a clamp and that will be very tough to remove. Any idea on how to best remove that pipe (it comes straight out of the middle of the backside of the housing.
@@porscheDIY Update: The thermostat housing came out! Oh my God, it was a tedious process. The gaskets were cooked. I am cleaning the housing now but it is almost 2am. More to come tomorrow.
Santrix, my coolant relief hose finally blew up while I was driving to work. I have seen your videos on the modification but have just failed to get to it. Well last night I got all the hoses and clamps and successfully bypassed the original location. but this morning when I start up the car, there is no hot air and the engine is overheating! I do not see any leaks and the water pump and thermostat was working fine before the relief hose blew? Could it be that the hose failure has caused a cascading effect that has now ruined by thermostat/water pump? I also don't have a coolant fill vacuum like you so I just filled the reservoir with coolant, could this be cause by an air in the system?
You need to properly fill cooling system. Fill reservoir, and while car is coming to temperature, you need to actuate the vent valve to let the air out. You actuate the vent valve by lifting the metal handle on the valve. As you do that, you probably will see reservoir level go down and you need to refill. This will take some time until your system is finally free of air. I’ll do a short video on this and post it tonight. You probably have a lot of air ingested in the system. Once you get a pocket of air in the pump, it will starve the pump and coolant will stop flowing.
Okay, I have ordered you coolant purge kit from Amazon. A video on how to properly use this would be great! Thank you so much for all that you do for the Macan community! I’m also going to prepare myself for a waterpump and thermostat replacement. With 90,000miles, I know it’s just a matter of time.
@@pandabmw Sorry, I didn’t mean for you to buy the vacuum fill system. I meant you could still purge system using the vent valve. You turn car on (open the reservoir a bit, not completely), let car get to temperature and actuate vent valve by lifting the wire on vent valve. That will release air. If you still want to fill using vacuum, then you need to empty the coolant completely and fill using vacuum system. Starting at minute 38:12 of the following video: Coolant Pump Failure! Replacing the coolant pump and thermostat in a 2015 Porsche Macan S / Turbo ua-cam.com/video/YqdYh51gbDE/v-deo.html
Holy moly!! That's a giant assortment of tools, my good Sir. And it doesn't stop there, them being neatly placed doesn't aggravate your viewer's (myself included) OCD 😂
Big job to undertake, but with the correct tools and knowledge which you have, i'd say, it's just another weekend to work on your lovely Macan.
Thanks man! Getting tools organized takes a lot of time, but the time saved after is probably 10-fold. First time I did this job in 2021 it took me like 6 hours. This time I did it in 2.
As always thank you for watching and for your support!
I am extremely impressed by Santirx’s knowledge of the car, the tools and specs but especially where he placed any given tool.
@@davidmiller1938 thanks for your kind words man!
🥴🥴 I had my coolant pump failure about a month ago, unfortunately i ignored the squeaky noise for a lil too long and ended up damaging the water pump pulley which then ripped the belt off the pulleys... 😭😭.Great video..!!
@@rickyfredericks9694 Wow! Thanks for sharing your story! Yes, those squeaky noises should not be ignored for long. In my case, I wanted to confirm that the noise was actually coming from the pump, so I used a stethoscope and it was in fact the pump. A good way to confirm. You can also use a long screwdriver against the pump and placing your ear on the handle (to hear).
@@porscheDIY Thanks for the tip, and for your videos..They have helped me a lot as i had earlier rebuilt my macan from a collision..🙂
How many miles did you have on your macan when this happened?
@@rickross6368 About 135 to 140K miles.
Bravo , toujours aussi efficace 🧰
Thank you for your kind words and for your support!
At what point do you want to change the belt and the tensioner? Another nice video, thanks!
I was planning on changing the serpentine belt with this job (I have the new one), but decided to delay. The current belt seems OK, but it is in my list to do. I’m gonna probably have to remove the radiator fan module to get more space there. I don’t think it can be done without creating that space.
@@porscheDIY It can be done, but it's much better to put the vehicle into 'service position' which requires removing the bumper etc. Porsche designed it this way and it's a good idea for getting in there anyway to remove any dirt or road debris that may have built up into the condensor, radiators, etc. Frankly, this WHOLE job is usually easier for the DIY person, to just do it all at once. It's a full days work for the average garage mechanic but it takes care of 'most' of the common problem and wear items and avoids you needing to do the same tasks multiple times.
@@thepacketnarc7634 unfortunately, the "service position" is still terrible as there isn't much space... I'm thinking it might actually be easier to remove the radiator completely
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your tool arsenal. On another note; I replaced both timing chain cover bolts (one was broken) and cleaned up the engine. I’ve noticed oil continue leaking on the front (driver side). The bolt I replaced is dry. I cannot figure out where the oil leak is coming from. Have you experienced oil leak coming from the camshaft sensors? Is this common? And also how common is a leak from the valve gasket? Any tips will be forever appreciated. Thanks.
When I replaced the two timing chain bolts for the first time, it continued leaking (although less) after. The leak was coming through the new bolt thread. I decided to get high temperature thread sealant from a local Autozone. Removed the bolt, added the sealant to the threads, and reinstalled/retorqued. Waited 24 hours, and then tested again. To this day (3 or 4 years after) no leak.
On the other question, I have only experienced some low level sweating of the valve cover gasket. Not enough to be considered a leak. I cleaned it and it hasn’t come back. So I left it alone. This is not as common as the timing chain cover leak, but it happens.
Thanks for your kind words and for your support!
Santirx, I keep hearing you're THE MAN! I am going through this with my GTS; however, my leak is coming from my thermostat housing (2 gaskets going into the engine block). Any help with instructions to remove the housing and replace those gaskets. The pulley came off smooth, the water pump as well. But the thermostat itself crack and broke when removing it, all good, it's out. Now I am trying to stop unplugging sensors and hidden T10 torx screws to get the housing out.
@@OmarRebaza You will need to remove the throttle valve and intake plenum to get access to the 4 bolts you need to remove from the top of the housing, which secures the housing to the engine block. One of these 4 bolts is below one of the smallest tubings coming out of the housing so you will probably have to remove that tubing from the housing to get access. You will also need to disconnect the 3 hoses that go into the housing. Once you remove the 4 bolts, you should be able to lift the housing enough to replace the 2 o-rings on the engine block. Sorry to hear. This is a pretty involved job, but doable.
@@porscheDIY I knew you were the man. Yes, there are some clips with wires over those the four bolts. Some of the hoses are very short and hard to bend, but I will use your guidance to get that thing off. I appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Update: It was indeed a pain in rear to remove the four bolts (of death) that hold the thermostat housing. The housing loose now; however, there is a long pipe that comes from the rear of the housing towards the firewall. It's about 18-20 inches long. It is connected to another hose with a clamp and that will be very tough to remove. Any idea on how to best remove that pipe (it comes straight out of the middle of the backside of the housing.
@@porscheDIY Update: The thermostat housing came out! Oh my God, it was a tedious process. The gaskets were cooked. I am cleaning the housing now but it is almost 2am. More to come tomorrow.
Santrix, my coolant relief hose finally blew up while I was driving to work. I have seen your videos on the modification but have just failed to get to it. Well last night I got all the hoses and clamps and successfully bypassed the original location. but this morning when I start up the car, there is no hot air and the engine is overheating! I do not see any leaks and the water pump and thermostat was working fine before the relief hose blew? Could it be that the hose failure has caused a cascading effect that has now ruined by thermostat/water pump?
I also don't have a coolant fill vacuum like you so I just filled the reservoir with coolant, could this be cause by an air in the system?
You need to properly fill cooling system. Fill reservoir, and while car is coming to temperature, you need to actuate the vent valve to let the air out. You actuate the vent valve by lifting the metal handle on the valve. As you do that, you probably will see reservoir level go down and you need to refill. This will take some time until your system is finally free of air.
I’ll do a short video on this and post it tonight. You probably have a lot of air ingested in the system. Once you get a pocket of air in the pump, it will starve the pump and coolant will stop flowing.
Okay, I have ordered you coolant purge kit from Amazon. A video on how to properly use this would be great! Thank you so much for all that you do for the Macan community!
I’m also going to prepare myself for a waterpump and thermostat replacement. With 90,000miles, I know it’s just a matter of time.
@@pandabmw Sorry, I didn’t mean for you to buy the vacuum fill system. I meant you could still purge system using the vent valve. You turn car on (open the reservoir a bit, not completely), let car get to temperature and actuate vent valve by lifting the wire on vent valve. That will release air.
If you still want to fill using vacuum, then you need to empty the coolant completely and fill using vacuum system.
Starting at minute 38:12 of the following video:
Coolant Pump Failure! Replacing the coolant pump and thermostat in a 2015 Porsche Macan S / Turbo
ua-cam.com/video/YqdYh51gbDE/v-deo.html