@@johncolossians3104 Stick to what the manufacturer tells you in the manual. But yea in my opinion 0w-20 or 0w-30 is ok. It's just a thinner oil better for cold starting temperatures. Please note, I do not own a Subaru and my car is a high compression V6 Naturally Aspirated.
In a water cooled car with a properly functioning radiator, not really. Not the second viscosity number anyway. A 0w-20 is good for far hotter than 75f, that is just wrong. More about how you drive. My Corolla hybrid owners manual states that a 5w-30 ''may provide better protection'' when towing or driving in mountainous roads. I live in a country without CAFE. Think about that recommendation from Toyota themselves. Not the second viscosity number anyway.
@@johncolossians3104 I also have a Scooby in Minnesota (in my case a BRZ with FA20D) and all of the recommendations are still 0W-20. However, based on temps here we should be using 0W-40 because we can definitely get hotter than 86°F on a regular basis every year. Of course, this will decrease MPG when the weather isn't freezing. Also, I do lots of "spirited" driving as I like to avoid the torque dip the FA20D engine has. My car will never see a track, but is driven sort of track-like on the roads. So I like the thicker oil for that kind of driving.
good stuff man, my engine builder and I got into this discussion a year ago. He said the exact same thing as your tuner and for a guy whose seen hundreds of blown motors I valued that advice as well. So far I have 8400 miles on my new fa20 engine using motul 5w40 and its doing great!
@@jonnythunder76 what engine are you running? I am on a Forester ( hybrid FA20) with 0w20. I did a first factory change at 3500km with a turkish/texaco brand oil 0w20
A 0w-30 will have a much more consistent viscosity across the operating temperature rage that a 5w-30. Everyone always focuses on the bearings when that issue was solved 50 years ago. What needs to be talked about when comparing oil viscosity is where and how the piston rings contact the cylinder wall. A higher viscosity oil requires a lot more force to remove from the cylinder walls. With the thinner, lower tension rings that are used today, they simply cannot effectively remove a higher viscosity oil from the cylinder walls. The other side of this conversation is about the additive package in the oil. The reason ZDDP has been slowly phased out is because what makes it a great anti-wear additive, the fact it sticks to metal surfaces so well, causes it to wreak havoc on emission equipment. This is why it's more commonly found in race oils. The detergent package also plays a huge role. Modern oils have moved away from calcium based detergent to a magnesium based detergent. This is largely based on the LSPI requirements. So by using a higher viscosity oil you have more oil is making it's way into the combustion chamber. If that oil is using an incompatible additive package you have the ZDDP decomposing in the combustion process leading to the sulfur and phosphorus coating the emission components downstream. If the additive package is calcium based, that oil being thrown into the combustion chamber is going to cause LSPI. Federal regulations drive changes by the manufactures, these changes drive oil formulation. That's how we ended up here, not the other way around. At the end of the day the viscosity really doesn't matter too much as long as you are using an oil with an additive package compatible with your vehicle. Which for a WRX an API SP or ILSAC GF-6 oil would be appropriate.
you forgot the resource conserving oil part. but you also have to watch out for HTHS numbers to. I use an oil that meets the Porsche C30 rating. it is not resource conserving and has a high HTHS number. changed at 5-5.5k mi oci similar to the manual recommendation
What would be your opinion on a vehicle that calls for 5w30 in Mexico, but 0w20 in the states, say if you’re in Texas, how much of a difference is there really in the climate? Is it a regulatory difference?
@@thetechlibrarian There is a lot that goes into recommendations is availability. Many manuals with have some sort of statement on the order "if this grade isn't available use this". A 5w30 and 0w20 is going to be at a similar viscosity at operation temp.
Most engine wear occurs during cold start, and a thinner oil at cold temps will lubricate sooner. Thinner oil is also more easily pumped and has less parasitic losses, so OEMs leverage that fact to improve fuel consumption. I personally put a lot of weight, (no pun intended) on the cold viscosity because that is the most important aspect of a road car - cold start wear. As for high end temps, even if you drive the car hard, your engine temp likely isn't going above 100 deg C which is where the cooling system keeps it. Ambient temperature is irrelevant as the cooling system keeps the engine temp low. If you track your car and the cooling system can't keep up, then yes, you need a thicker oil at higher temps.
My 2022 WRX has an oil temperature gauge and it’s not unusual at all to see it showing 212-218° F which is indeed over 100°C. I’m sure track driving or spirited back road driving could get the temp higher still.
@@GrappIer not sure about the VB wrx, but they all have insufficient oil cooling for abuse. perrin thermostatic oil cooler is almost mandatory for anyone that drives these cars hard. hot days, my FBO VA wrx hit 240 F no problem on hard summer driving. for the car to even hit 220 F with the thermostatic oil cooler, you'd have to be driving the absolute shit out of it. the cooler's thermostat doesnt open until after 185 F.
@@GrappIer my 2023 VB just hit around 214degrees F, and I baby my car as I’m still breaking it in (500 miles not passing 3600rpm) the outside temps were 79-82 degrees. However my wife said she saw some sort of temperature warning on the screen. Didn’t see it myself but now I’m starting to research what to do without voiding warrantee…
Totally, absolutely agree with your assessment! I live at Puerto Rico, where the average temperature during our "Winter" is 8O°F; during Fall/Summer, it averages 90-95°F...Conclusion, I'll protect my two engines with 5W-2O-5W-30, depending on the Season!!!
Having said that 5w30 is good enough for basically all conditions not as good as 0w40 but close and for your temperature 5w40 or 10w30 or even 10w40 is all great
I've been using *0W-20* down in the _TEXAS_ heat for almost 20 years now, without any problems. All my cars have been running excellent for hundreds of thousands miles. Seems to me that the quality of the oil is more important than its viscosity, not all oils are created equal.
Depends on the car and driving habits. Even my Corolla Hybrid owners manual specifically states a 5w-30 ''may provide better protection'' when towing or heavy driving. 0w-20 only exists for CAFE, although it is obviously adequate for most cars for a long time.
@77GR1982 I'd rather spend some more money on fuel than buying motors. Fuel consumption isn't a concern for race cars and dailies that are beat to hell, but thin oil sure is
Over 350k miles in my v8 tundra running 0w20. Engine runs like a clock. 4-5K intervals is what I like to run. I live in texas so it gets nice and toasty down here and have never had any issues. Thought about running a 5w30 but ultimately decided to stick to the 0w20 and so far so good!
You V8 Tundra isn’t turbocharged. There’s a significant difference in a WRX. Turbo builds heat and the turbo spins at very high rpm’s. You comparing apples and oranges.
Yet there are mechanics that tear down and fix engines constantly say to use the specified oil because of the oil passages are designed in such a way to except a certain oil weight. These mechanics also say to make sure you change the oil every 5k and not 10k. Using the right oil weight has been a question for consumers, mechanics, tuners, and manufactures for as long as I can remember, so I say good luck to you and everyone else.
the oil passages argument is the most stup*d argument thats getting repeated over and over. Do people actually realize cars engines are sealed up, and an oil pump builds up pressure, under which the oil is pushed through the oil passages/channels? No matter which oil you put in your engine, anything from 0w-20 to 10w-50 will all go through the oil's passages, it's just that the oil pump needs to do a little bit more work vs a 0w-20 oil initially to build up that pressure. Once the oil pressure is build up, a higher viscosity oil can maintain higher pressure than a thinner grade oil, which results in engine parts getting lubricated better and the oil film being stronger under G-forces without breaking off. In fact the oil pump is the most vital part of lubrication. An engine rebuilder from Germany discovered that a vast majority of engines that failed and he was rebuilding had a defect oil pump prior to the engine failure so the oil wasn't lubricating parts of the engine. Check the pressure output of your oil pump during services, if its sufficient then you're good. Unlike the old days, modern engines very rarely have an engine pressure gauge/sensor which is a problem in itself.
Engines are not built around a viscosity. Engine tolerances have not changed. Only change is the introduction of valve timing, and recent being bearing material. engineers do not write owners manual, the marketing team does. The oil is a recommended viscosity, not required. There is verbiage in the manual that states thicker oil may be used for different uses, towing, etc. same goes for extended oil changes, that’s also a marketing scheme, but if you look at the fine print we call it the manufacturer (CYA) policy, they state that under severe service 3-5000 miles max. The normal service, which maybe 1% of consumers fall under is not correct for 99% of drivers. That’s the manufacturer (CYA) policy meaning you have problems with the engine, it starts using oil at 90,000 miles bc you extended the drains, they deny you warranty bc you fall under the severe service and they covered themselves. Get the customer every time. I watch it happen on a daily basis. CAFE is the only reason for the ultra low viscosity oils. If you look at the owners manuals for everywhere outside of the USA, they give you a chart for temperature. They say from 0w30 - 20w50 can be used based on temp. This topic has been beat to death on BOB IS THE OIL GUY, and the motor oil geek on UA-cam, as well as every dealer tech on UA-cam. I suggest you visit BITOG and watch dealer you tube channels.
resource conserving is not your friend. yes, you will see a few more mpg, but resource conserving oils are barely at the hot rating and thin out at operating temps. most have a low HTHS value too and evaporate/vapor easier as evidence of sooty tips. this is my experience.
@@K03sport Thats still an HTHS of 2.9 and most 5w-30's are in the low 3s', which even if it thins a little still offers good protection. I have yet to see any study showing significantly accelerated wear above 2.8 and most studies suggest 2.6 is fine. Track use or heavy driving, yeah I could go thicker, but a 5w-30 should be fine for most street use.
really like this video. Always questioned using 0w20 in my impreza and wanted to go thicker as well and believe ill be going 5w30 just like my 2018 wrx
Always questioned??? If it's that simple why would someone needs years of studies, training and strong mathematical skills to become an automotive or chemical engineer? We could all make judgement based on how we feel.
I changed my oil at 1000 miles, and then at 3000 miles. I had the dreaded Fuel Pressure Sensor failure at 2000 miles, but the dealer warrantied it, no problem. Going to take it to the dealer for the 6000 mile oil change to put the onus on them for the RTV issue. So far, so good. LOVE the VB, FWIW and YMMV… only mods so far are K&N air filter. VA guys bust my balls about “Nice Civic” but they really are jealous, because…. She rips! Love the vids and keep up the good work!
Well. You’ve answered my question. I live in thailand where it is boiling year round and my corolla cross comes with 0W20 and it’s recommended. But the dealer when i brought it in for the first service recommended i put the “better one”. I didn’t know what they meant but i looked at the receipt and they put 5w40 instead. I asked them if they were sure it’s okay and they said yes. So I’ve been researching all day and you’ve answered why they put that in.
I would say that the metal shavings you saw were possibly also first oil change metals from initial assembly. Ive found them in all of my new cars. I think, for my FA20 wrx it took one or two oil changes to not see those anymore. And that FA was a very happy motor and made great power with consistency. My tuner used it as a test bed and it never had an issue or metal in the pan after the first 2 changes
I would agree. I just did a first oil change at 500mi on an FA24, and there were tons of metal specs floating in the pan (like the folds of a brain) plus a few chunks in the bottom. Pic on Instagram. Definitely not from a previous oil drain.
if the manual says '''under harsh driving conditions, we recommend using [OIL GRADE blah blah]" could they still deny your warranty if you specifically used one of those oils? assuming all other conditions were met.
If you drive spirited, let alone track use, switching to a 5w-40 or 0w-40 is a must. In my VQ37VHR motor it really helped as the motor already struggles with oil temps.
your turd needs a 40w oil because the vq37 runs really hot and the oem 370z oil cooler is TERRIBLE. the reality is that you could run a 20w if you could keep it under about 230 degrees F or so.
@@solocamo3654 be mad all you want. you and i both know the 350/370 oil coolers have problems keeping the engine oil cool during normal driving, let alone at a HPDE. 240F is easy to hit for normal driving conditions in the summer, and it just gets worse from there.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO Good news is the motor is in my daily G37 in FL and does just fine. My "turd" has been extremely reliable. I acknowledged the oil cooling issues in my very first post so I don't get what you are on about. It's a known issue for track use. If simply needing additional cooling makes the motor a turd well you've got to learn a lot about some other 'performance' motors and reliability issues. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 has taken me to 130k miles and counting and the motor has no problem with my very spirited daily driving in the FL heat.
I switched to Motul 5W30 at 1500km. I was also surprised to see how bad the oil was and the amount of crap on the magnetic drain plug. At 10,000km I changed the Trans/diff fluid to Motul 300... oil was clean, but lots of crud on the drain plugs.
all engines have high wear in the beginning. It's why I always change my oil at 500, 2k, 5k, then every 5k. I had a magnetic drain plug on my 6.4 hemi truck, and after about 100k miles there was never anything on it. Lots more wear the first 25-50k.
What are the factory/stock main and rod bearing oil clearances on a VB WRX? I don't know, wish I did, I've looked but found numbers all over the place, but the bearing oil clearance plays a big part of what oil viscosity you should use, along with oil temp and pressure.
first oil change i noticed on the invoice the dealer used 5w30, i questioned the change because the manual and oil cap clearly say 0w20; girl said "no , that's what we run in the new wrx." i asked if it were because of the summer months, and she reiterated her statement. not a big deal, but the book says one thing and the dealership another.
During your time at IIR I began to use their oil change kit for the VA chassis and that is Motul 5 w30 I live within high altitude cold climate but will be moving back to sea level and feel like that s boule be good all the way around.
Is your tuner going to provide warranty coverage on your engine? Every man and his dog is an armchair scientist now. For me, I'm just gonna stick to the recommended viscosity. Appreciate your video, thank you, it is interesting food for thought. I agree about the environment, MPG and lighter weight oil and what's next, sewing machine oil?
These thin oils also tend to burn - so you have to keep a closer eye on the level. Annoying. I'm with you on running something more reasonable like 5W30 or 5W40.
I had just posted this but, my 2023 VB just hit around 214 degrees F on the oil temp, and I baby my car as I’m still breaking it in (500 miles on the dash, not passing 3600rpm) the outside temps were 79-82 degrees; givin we were driving for about 45-55mins . However my wife said she saw some sort of temperature warning on the screen flash. Didn’t see it myself but now I’m starting to research what to do without voiding warrantee…
I know this is a year old, but if you can't go to a higher viscosity, Redline, which is pricey, tends to run a bit thicker than it's competitors in the same grade. I also has a higher anti-wear additive package. You could try Redline in 0w20 if that's what's required by warranty.
@@StreetInspired1 Higher ZDDP level may increase the coefficient of friction and lead to higher temperatures of the piston rings. High temperature is always bad. You want an oil with the best and most stable friction modifiers. Not the oil designed for slow diesel engines.
No argument here. My last TunerTalk we talked about oil and Graham said for performance just do 5-30. I actually had an interview with Tanner from Smeedia as well and he said the same. For performance 100% go higher. Tanner said he runs EVEN HIGHER on his EJs. That's a surprise to me haha
Definitely! For someone who is just dailying it and nevwr beats on it they're probably fine, but I want better protection because I have fun with my car.
Im no engineer, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but if you're In Cali where it's never really cold a 5w-30 or 5w-40 would make the most sense to me.
I found your video in my quest for the ultimate oil for most purposes. I also was skeptical on the 0W-20 oil being used in most engines the last 10-12yrs. I ran up on this blogger who is a mechanical engineer by trade and a lifetime engine builder. In one article he says to use the thinnest oil ideally no thinner than 5W-30 while still making acceptable hot oil pressure. He also torture tested at least 278 individual oils. His current #1 is Quaker State “Full Synthetic” 5W-30. Barely edging out Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. Our beloved Rotella T6 5W-40 ranks a very low #251. German Castrol 0W-30 #244. I switched all my cars to Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 from dino HM oil. Now that I’ve seen Subaru in other parts of the world recommend 5W-30 (0W-20 in the US) I’m gonna recommend EVERYONE in a normal car run the QSFS 5W-30. NOTE Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 is #1 NOT the newer “ultimate durability” 5W-30 which falls to #36. Scroll down 20% to the ranking list: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
Other than marginal mpg decrease, have you seen any other disadvantage of using thicker oil? Like more wear at cold start ups? Or that's not quantifiable enough to tell the difference.
So the first number on the oil Is the cold viscosity. So in cold climates the 0W oil is fair game. If you're in a cold climate and switch to 5W or 10W it could cause more wear on cold starts because it's not getting through the engine as quickly. But 5W is rated down to -22°F. That's why I didn't see an issue switching to 5W when the coldest winters I get here in PA are 20°F
also look for resource conserving and non-resource conserving. RC oils tend to be a "light" version of their stated weight and thin out at operating tempa and have low HTHS numbers.
So how often do you change this oil? You did not mention your intended oil change interval.with Rotella. Did you ask that tuner whether he has any proof that Rotella saved any WRX's rod bearings from failing?
0W-20 drops it's kinematic viscosity from 8 to about 6.5 cSt at 100 degrees over time in most engines which is bad. 5W-20 stays pretty much at the same level of viscosity during the entire service interval which is good. This is what you need. Using a very high viscosity oil won't help anything. It won't hurt either except for the fuel consumption. But using a shear stable oil is important.
Yes...i use 5w20 in my 0w20 recommended vehicle...more stable and less volatility burn off....saw a test 0w20 vs 5w20.. same brand....5w20 outperformed in wear scar size...in fact,5w20 did real close to 5w30 in the same test.
All you did going to a 5w20 is increase the time between the oil will break down at high temperatures over 0W20. You only changed the Winter viscosity, at higher temps the second number needs to go up. There are currently 2 videos, one from the motor oil geek, the other from Projectfarms. Both videos have 5w30 protecting the motor better than 0W20. I do agree if you're under warranty to maybe sneak in 5w20 over 0w20 for warmer weather, but, 5w30 is still better.
@@lonniebeal6032 I am not sure I understand. A shear stable oil loses less viscosity no matter how long you use the oil. For example, if a plain 0W-20 becomes a 6.5 cSt oil let's say after 2000 km and a 5W-20 drops down to 7.5 cSt. This means that the 5W-20 stays thicker by 10-15%. Oils don't thin out indefinitely. There is a limit.
So i live in florida where most the time its hot with a gr86/ fa24 should i use 5w30 or 0w30? Ive been using 0w20 for the past 3 oil changes. im at 13, 700 miles, im about to have my 15k service (including oil pan + pickup inspection done earlier this time i had the oil change a little above 3k miles each time once i went 4.2k miles before a oil change. Getting worried for my car it seems fine though.
I was using 5w40 in my 2022 and 2021 wrx. I talked to few dealership service depts and they said if there is a warranty claim and Subaru finds that are using wrong oil they will deny any warranty claim for the engine. How true is this?
I've heard of it happening. If you're under warranty, use Redline of the reccommended viscosity during the summer, it has a higher than most anti-wear additive package as proven by oil analysis from projectfarms.
A interesting oil review, here in Australia Subaru recommends 5W/30 for my four Subaru WRX from 2006 to my present 2020, i would prefer to use 5W/40 due to our usual hot summer temperature ? So far i have had no issues using 5w/30 👍 Au
Wish I had learned all this info before a few days back 😂 Just did a Motul 0w-20 change. Planning on going Cobb AP in the next week so I guess I need to swap to at least 5W-30. Should I change the oil filter out too when I swap oils or since the filter is only a few days old is that okay? (Sorry if that’s a dumb question)
I always just use what is recommended for my climate when it comes to oil. Your definitely right about everyone and their grandpa will have a different opinion lol. Also thank you for the story about the AOS vs catchcans from your tuner. Appreciate learning this stuff and it is a great article.
it's kinda crazy, but this similar issue are popping up not only in auto industry but in heavy industry and manufacturing side as well. Oil refiners had to change the refining method or using different formula to create different kinds of oil, but with resulting performance specs matching what the grade of oil used to be. They are still classified, labeled as same oil. Now we are getting insane varnishing build ups or oil dropping its viscosity far too quickly than the older formulas used to be, and requires many different kinds of PMs and CMs to address them. I am assuming the adaptation of OW-20 oil went under similar thought process. I don't mind swapping my oil to 5W or even 10W for higher viscosity, but I shall be using engine block heater to keep the oil warm to prevent bearing wiping during engine start up.
When these first came out, everybody was freaking out about excess RTV in the oil. Most people find it draining the oil and stuck in their oil pickup tube. I haven't checked the oil pickup but thought if any rtv was present I would find at least some in the drained oil.
I have an Audi 2.0 TDI from 2024. Some time ago, 5-30 oil was put in that engine. Now the manufacturer says 0-20?! I really don't trust that oil and would rather put 5-30, but some say that maybe the oil rings and the oil pump are designed differently. What do you think about that?
I just did my 5k oil change 2 weeks ago with 0W-20. Between then and now, I’ve seen your video and a few other sources that convinced me to go up to a 5W-30/40 - can I just drain and refill do you think? Or do I have to put a new filter on even though it’s only been in for about 300 miles so far?
I have a 2001 LS 5.3 with 120k miles and it started the infamous lifter 'tick'. I ran a can of Liqui-Moli engine flush to clean out deposits and changed to 5w-40. The tick is GONE!
I used Rotella in my 6.0 powerstroke build, it's good stuff, I'm in MN so now you got me thinking about atleast moving to 5-30w. This rtv stuff is bothering me, and if your oil is only 1500 miles then I think I'm due since I live on gravel and at almost 4500. Also do you use stock oil filters or a specific brand, heard good stuff about wix.
...factory filter is fine and can be had cheaper than wix (shop around and don't buy from the service department unless you can get a discount on a 5pk)
The most reputable tuners recommend 10W40 oil. I would love to see some analysis done on your rotella. The difference isn't much but at low temps the 10 weight is optimal.
The dollars saved by using 0W20 for the average person is very tiny. But when you do the math for the 1.4 billion cars on the road, it's a pretty big number. I figure it must be in the 70 million gallons range.
Something doesn't add up for me here... How can an oil has a maximum operational temperature that is lower than the engine operating temperature? Most cooling systems keep the engine at around 95⁰c, and this is what ANY oil that you put inside your engine will experience. Now, for the winter rating, I can understand the lower number because the engine will be started at the lower temperature, but the engine will never be started at the higher temperature than its operating temperature.
@@tc3065 While I agree with that. It still doesn't answer my question. My question is that I completely understand why we need different viscosities at lower temperatures, as cold starting the engine is a different temperature depending of where you are in the world and what the weather is. But viscosity for the upper end (the "30" in 5w-30), is the same for all of us, as the engine operating temperature is the same everywhere.
Hey, I absolutely beat the fuck outta my VB daily and I live in MN. We get hellllla hot but also hella hella cold, what oil would you recommend for me?
Its simple run what the manufature says to run. They designed and built the engine. Dont listen to this dotard talking nonsense its obvious he has no clue what he is talking about.
I cut my filter open on my first change and didnt see any RTV. I even looked between all the pleats. There are guys beating the Hell out of these cars and turning them close to 7000 RPMs and they haven't had any oiling issues.
@@chrischarles9218 he’s talking about the basket inside the oil pickup. You’d have to drop the oil pan to check.. there have been no engine failures so far with rtv as the confirmed main cause. though so a lot of people are blowing it out of proportion
For warranty as long as you have proof that you have been doing oil changes regularly then you should be fine. Where your warranty could be bodied is if you can’t proof that the service has been done
I use 0W30 or 0W40 in my Crosstrek. I bought it used with 60K miles, so no warranty. I also use Duralube. It gets great fuel economy. I haven't had consumption issues. It starts great at -10°F. Those viscosities flow great as synthetics during cold startups. They should protect better at high temps.
An oil analysis will tell the truth. I doubt Duralube has Molyb at 537 ppm, or phosphorous at 1175, or zinc at 1270 like Redline. Get an oil analysis done on fresh, unused oil.
I live in Pennsylvania. The coldest temperature my car sees in the winter is like 20°F and in the summer, the hottest it sees is about 95°F. I will probably run 5W-40 In the summer and maybe a 0W-30 if we get a cold winter.
@@StreetInspired1Why all that matters is cold winter start up. Any other time the motor is at operating temp it dont matter what the outside temp is the engine will.still be the same temp. Using a 40w oil when 0w20 is recommended is stupid and will cause engine damage over time.
You are right! That oil looks cruddy for 1500 miles. I try to change new car oil before 1000 miles. As, I understand it, the 0-16 oil is a better grade oil. Recommended for turbo 4's etc. I used it on my Honda Accord 2T without any problems. I am now using 0-16 (GF-6) on both our CRV's. One turbo, one hybrid. No problems. I change oil every 5,000 miles and do not use any brown oil. (used oil refurbished from used oil and used as new, especially at new car dealers. Brown oil usually referred to as bulk oil or oil from a brown barrel. I am an average driver. As an aside, only 30 weight oil for my John Deere mower. It has been running flawlessly for over 30 years. It is a Kawasaki liquid cooled engine.
you mean the pedestrians w/their nose in phone, not paying attention as they cross a street (sometimes in the crosswalk)...the government made car designers create pedestrian friendly front ends for absent minded pedestrians because the general public/pedestrian can't pay attention on their own when around 3000-4000 lb cars. blame the pedestrians ; not the government
You can't give a dealer any excuse to void your warranty. Use Redline 0W20, it has the highest anti-wear additive package I've seen, with Castrol Edge Extended Performance next.
granted, 0-20 was for fuel economy numbers; but personally, you shouldn't need to run more than a x-30 oil. One thing I've noticed w/resource conserving (RC) oil is the tips get black w/soot quickly. I switched to pennzoil euro-L 0-30 (Porsche C30 rating w/3.5 HTHS) a non-resource conserving oil and noticed my tips don't get as dirty as quickly. also noticed my car's overall mpg and miles to empty numbers are closer to real world numbers and not as inflated w/RC oil.
I've never done it on any vehicle I've owned and never had an issue, only time ive done it is for larger jobs like a turbo swap where i drian all the oil and add new oil lines and turbo (to make sure the new turbo has oil in it before the engine fires) Might do it now with this car since its a simple built in feature
If cooling system works correctly, engine working temperature is about the same unless you live in extreme areas and system can't keep up. Low viscosity oils are also fit better for engines that use oil hydraulics for their various systems like VVTI, lifters etc. In addition to faster circulation and action of these systems, it is more stable and have better capacity from evaporation leading to thickening. General rules of mechanics the faster the part rotates, the less viscosity oil should have to keep up with parts filling gaps etc. Like found in turbines etc. The slower and more loaded parts require heavier oil. Wide spread in viscosity require more thickeners which are polymers chains unwinding at higher temperature adding viscosity to base oil. In addition to wear out, they find way beyond rings with oil creating even heavier carbon deposits. Therefore wide spread viscosity oils better be avoided unless you have really legit reason. Viscosity drops with temperature, thickening due to evaporation, viscosity drop due to breaking viscosity improvers polymers and many other factors work together often in opposite directions. Remember everything in life is a compromise. You just have to know what you gain or sacrifice at what cost
@@lonniebeal6032 I think it would be wrong approach. Check engine temperature at least by instrument gauge needle.. At temperatures you listed, the working temperature will be the same about 100c. Actually around 103c due to pressure created by the radiator cap. These are not extreme temperatures at all. In this case oil should be used following manufacturer. Viscosity was selected by engine design, hydraulics used actuators used, rpm, load Etc
I literally had to run out to the garage, pop the hood and stare in wonder at the numbers on the oil fill cap! I traded my 2018 in for the 22 and it ran 5w30 at least. 0w20 is insane to run in any engine let alone a "performance" engine. Thanks for the heads up and if my dealer wont use 5w30 for my "free" oil changes for the next 2 years then I guess I will be back to doing my own again. Really appreciate the heads up!
I'm reading all these people worrying about which viscosity to use because of weather climates. As a mechanic I recommend people use the viscosity your vehicle requires for. If your oil cap says 0w20 use 0w20, if it say 5w20 use 5w20. Modern vehicles require for low viscosity oil because it will be nice and thin so as to work properly when the engine is cold. But it will maintain correct thickness and viscosity at normal operating temperatures. It doesn't matter how hot or cold it is outside, the normal operating temperatures is MUCH hotter around 90 degrees C. It won't get any hotter along the cooling system working properly.
You're not really qualified to talk about oil specifications for cars since you think a car that is specified for 5W-20 is precluded from using 0W-20 which is not true as a 0W-20 is just an improved 5W-20 oil (0W-20 are always synthetic). The number after the - is what counts in terms of engine compatibility and even that is up for debate.
The motor geek ran 0w20 vs 5w30 in a high performance engine, the 0W20 had more metal particles in it from the oil analysis, kinda shoots that other BS down.
VW in their manuals calls for VW spec oil not weight, so i ran VW 0W-30 because it was actually cheaper than the usual 5W-30 on my TDI engine, oil quality and spec is much more important than oil weight i think and i just go with the price
Dude great Video I don’t know 🤷🏾♂️ why people get butt hurt on this oil Topic I am with you lighter Oil is ok for Gas mileage & newer cars but when that engine ages with time in certain climates, it’s going to break that lighter oil down quicker, Specially Turbo power vehicles I have a sport 19 Accord 2.0 my next oil change I am running Thicker oil that simple I stay in FL GOD BLESS MAN….!!!!!!
Your not free of RTV. Use a bore scope and look into your oil pickup tube. You'll find different. My pan was entirely clean but at my 5k oil change I looked with my bore scope and boom! Have fun!
You're going to have a burning oil in the future. The pistons rings are not designed to work on that car. Stick on 0w20. You're not covered under warranty.
Freeze some 0W20 for 24hrs, it pours like honey, that's a lie about ruining your rings, however a deal may do his beast not to honor a warranty, so yes to the warranty. Also I read Kia's are running 5W50 in Austraila, and not having near the problems we are here in the US.
This is also a rabbit hole as some 5w40's are actually closer to a 5w30 while some are closer to a 5w50. My 0w-40 is closer to a 0w30 but still passes as a 40 technically.
5w30 is good and best fit in FA engine. 02-11 manual are for ej engine. However I using motul 5w30 in my 21 sti never shear down to 20. No oil lose. Change every 3k miles.
2016 and 2017 Audi TT, with 3rd gen EA888 2.0 liter turbo required 5W40...then they switched in 2018 to 0W20. Same engine! Didn't explain to the public in clear and convincing manner as to why and as to the effects. Strange. And makes me nervous. So no thanks on 0W20.
Same thing on my 2018 VW, it was the last 5w40 Golf (with 5w30 being an acceptable alternative). From 2019 model year on, those call for 0w20. And just realized the dealer used 0w20 on my last oil change…
"Run the oil for your climate" is pretty much the only answer you need for any car
I always run 5W-40 here in Canada and use 100% synthetic oil. Not "full synthetic".
@@PimpSolja49 I’m in Minnesota and auto parts recommend 0w-20. Any problems with using 5w-40?
@@johncolossians3104 Stick to what the manufacturer tells you in the manual. But yea in my opinion 0w-20 or 0w-30 is ok. It's just a thinner oil better for cold starting temperatures. Please note, I do not own a Subaru and my car is a high compression V6 Naturally Aspirated.
In a water cooled car with a properly functioning radiator, not really. Not the second viscosity number anyway. A 0w-20 is good for far hotter than 75f, that is just wrong. More about how you drive. My Corolla hybrid owners manual states that a 5w-30 ''may provide better protection'' when towing or driving in mountainous roads. I live in a country without CAFE. Think about that recommendation from Toyota themselves. Not the second viscosity number anyway.
@@johncolossians3104 I also have a Scooby in Minnesota (in my case a BRZ with FA20D) and all of the recommendations are still 0W-20. However, based on temps here we should be using 0W-40 because we can definitely get hotter than 86°F on a regular basis every year. Of course, this will decrease MPG when the weather isn't freezing.
Also, I do lots of "spirited" driving as I like to avoid the torque dip the FA20D engine has. My car will never see a track, but is driven sort of track-like on the roads. So I like the thicker oil for that kind of driving.
This guy is spot on!! He knows exactly what he's doing and why.
Arent the second number is for operating temperature not the climate temperature?
good stuff man, my engine builder and I got into this discussion a year ago. He said the exact same thing as your tuner and for a guy whose seen hundreds of blown motors I valued that advice as well. So far I have 8400 miles on my new fa20 engine using motul 5w40 and its doing great!
@@notfiveo 15k on the new engine and it's still able to drive 7 hours on the Autobahn at 100 mph
@@jonnythunder76 what engine are you running? I am on a Forester ( hybrid FA20) with 0w20. I did a first factory change at 3500km with a turkish/texaco brand oil 0w20
A 0w-30 will have a much more consistent viscosity across the operating temperature rage that a 5w-30. Everyone always focuses on the bearings when that issue was solved 50 years ago. What needs to be talked about when comparing oil viscosity is where and how the piston rings contact the cylinder wall. A higher viscosity oil requires a lot more force to remove from the cylinder walls. With the thinner, lower tension rings that are used today, they simply cannot effectively remove a higher viscosity oil from the cylinder walls. The other side of this conversation is about the additive package in the oil. The reason ZDDP has been slowly phased out is because what makes it a great anti-wear additive, the fact it sticks to metal surfaces so well, causes it to wreak havoc on emission equipment. This is why it's more commonly found in race oils. The detergent package also plays a huge role. Modern oils have moved away from calcium based detergent to a magnesium based detergent. This is largely based on the LSPI requirements. So by using a higher viscosity oil you have more oil is making it's way into the combustion chamber. If that oil is using an incompatible additive package you have the ZDDP decomposing in the combustion process leading to the sulfur and phosphorus coating the emission components downstream. If the additive package is calcium based, that oil being thrown into the combustion chamber is going to cause LSPI.
Federal regulations drive changes by the manufactures, these changes drive oil formulation. That's how we ended up here, not the other way around.
At the end of the day the viscosity really doesn't matter too much as long as you are using an oil with an additive package compatible with your vehicle. Which for a WRX an API SP or ILSAC GF-6 oil would be appropriate.
you forgot the resource conserving oil part. but you also have to watch out for HTHS numbers to. I use an oil that meets the Porsche C30 rating. it is not resource conserving and has a high HTHS number. changed at 5-5.5k mi oci similar to the manual recommendation
I agree. I'm going with pup 0-20.
What would be your opinion on a vehicle that calls for 5w30 in Mexico, but 0w20 in the states, say if you’re in Texas, how much of a difference is there really in the climate? Is it a regulatory difference?
@@thetechlibrarian There is a lot that goes into recommendations is availability. Many manuals with have some sort of statement on the order "if this grade isn't available use this". A 5w30 and 0w20 is going to be at a similar viscosity at operation temp.
@@thetechlibrarian It's 100% regulatory. CA has some of the hottest temps in the world.
Most engine wear occurs during cold start, and a thinner oil at cold temps will lubricate sooner. Thinner oil is also more easily pumped and has less parasitic losses, so OEMs leverage that fact to improve fuel consumption. I personally put a lot of weight, (no pun intended) on the cold viscosity because that is the most important aspect of a road car - cold start wear. As for high end temps, even if you drive the car hard, your engine temp likely isn't going above 100 deg C which is where the cooling system keeps it. Ambient temperature is irrelevant as the cooling system keeps the engine temp low. If you track your car and the cooling system can't keep up, then yes, you need a thicker oil at higher temps.
My 2022 WRX has an oil temperature gauge and it’s not unusual at all to see it showing 212-218° F which is indeed over 100°C. I’m sure track driving or spirited back road driving could get the temp higher still.
@@GrappIer not sure about the VB wrx, but they all have insufficient oil cooling for abuse. perrin thermostatic oil cooler is almost mandatory for anyone that drives these cars hard. hot days, my FBO VA wrx hit 240 F no problem on hard summer driving. for the car to even hit 220 F with the thermostatic oil cooler, you'd have to be driving the absolute shit out of it. the cooler's thermostat doesnt open until after 185 F.
@@GrappIerExactly. I personally don’t even get on my VB hard since I just bought it. The most Ive seen it go up to is 205
@@GrappIer my 2023 VB just hit around 214degrees F, and I baby my car as I’m still breaking it in (500 miles not passing 3600rpm) the outside temps were 79-82 degrees. However my wife said she saw some sort of temperature warning on the screen. Didn’t see it myself but now I’m starting to research what to do without voiding warrantee…
thinner oils prob drain off internal surfaces more quickly so less lube on cold starts....I am with the thinker oil idea.
Totally, absolutely agree with your assessment! I live at Puerto Rico, where the average temperature during our "Winter" is 8O°F; during Fall/Summer, it averages 90-95°F...Conclusion, I'll protect my two engines with 5W-2O-5W-30, depending on the Season!!!
Use 10w30 or 5w40
Having said that 5w30 is good enough for basically all conditions not as good as 0w40 but close and for your temperature 5w40 or 10w30 or even 10w40 is all great
I've been using *0W-20* down in the _TEXAS_ heat for almost 20 years now, without any problems. All my cars have been running excellent for hundreds of thousands miles. Seems to me that the quality of the oil is more important than its viscosity, not all oils are created equal.
Economy cars are not the same as performance cars. I'll happily run thicker oil when it's 110+ out
@@AzureCrux You definitely can run thicker oil, although your car will be running hotter with thicker viscosity and be less efficient of course.
Depends on the car and driving habits. Even my Corolla Hybrid owners manual specifically states a 5w-30 ''may provide better protection'' when towing or heavy driving. 0w-20 only exists for CAFE, although it is obviously adequate for most cars for a long time.
Turbo engines are different and build more heat and the turbos spin at very high rpms! 0W-20 ain’t good in the heat on a turbo engine!
@77GR1982 I'd rather spend some more money on fuel than buying motors. Fuel consumption isn't a concern for race cars and dailies that are beat to hell, but thin oil sure is
Over 350k miles in my v8 tundra running 0w20. Engine runs like a clock. 4-5K intervals is what I like to run. I live in texas so it gets nice and toasty down here and have never had any issues. Thought about running a 5w30 but ultimately decided to stick to the 0w20 and so far so good!
You V8 Tundra isn’t turbocharged. There’s a significant difference in a WRX. Turbo builds heat and the turbo spins at very high rpm’s. You comparing apples and oranges.
@@hahaadventures4838 not every turbo engine needs 10w40….
Well Done. Stick to 0W-20 full synthetic. Don't listen to these armatures who think they are automotive engineers.
The same engine in your new age tundra (1urfe or 3urfe) in other countries reccomend 5w30 up to 20w50. Cafe regulations
But it's a Toyota, you could get 350k running sawdust and bacon grease 😉
I run synthetic 5w-30 all year round in AZ. Wouldn’t touch 0w-20 oil, it’s only there to meet CAFE standards for vehicle manufacturers.
Exactly, some DC bureaucrat chose which oil the auto makers would call for with no regards for how long your engine lasts.
Yet there are mechanics that tear down and fix engines constantly say to use the specified oil because of the oil passages are designed in such a way to except a certain oil weight. These mechanics also say to make sure you change the oil every 5k and not 10k. Using the right oil weight has been a question for consumers, mechanics, tuners, and manufactures for as long as I can remember, so I say good luck to you and everyone else.
You talking about the same mechanics that through the 70's, 80s', and 90s, and a few up to today, say synthetics are bad, or nothing special?
the oil passages argument is the most stup*d argument thats getting repeated over and over. Do people actually realize cars engines are sealed up, and an oil pump builds up pressure, under which the oil is pushed through the oil passages/channels? No matter which oil you put in your engine, anything from 0w-20 to 10w-50 will all go through the oil's passages, it's just that the oil pump needs to do a little bit more work vs a 0w-20 oil initially to build up that pressure. Once the oil pressure is build up, a higher viscosity oil can maintain higher pressure than a thinner grade oil, which results in engine parts getting lubricated better and the oil film being stronger under G-forces without breaking off.
In fact the oil pump is the most vital part of lubrication. An engine rebuilder from Germany discovered that a vast majority of engines that failed and he was rebuilding had a defect oil pump prior to the engine failure so the oil wasn't lubricating parts of the engine. Check the pressure output of your oil pump during services, if its sufficient then you're good. Unlike the old days, modern engines very rarely have an engine pressure gauge/sensor which is a problem in itself.
Engines are not built around a viscosity. Engine tolerances have not changed. Only change is the introduction of valve timing, and recent being bearing material. engineers do not write owners manual, the marketing team does. The oil is a recommended viscosity, not required. There is verbiage in the manual that states thicker oil may be used for different uses, towing, etc. same goes for extended oil changes, that’s also a marketing scheme, but if you look at the fine print we call it the manufacturer (CYA) policy, they state that under severe service 3-5000 miles max. The normal service, which maybe 1% of consumers fall under is not correct for 99% of drivers. That’s the manufacturer (CYA) policy meaning you have problems with the engine, it starts using oil at 90,000 miles bc you extended the drains, they deny you warranty bc you fall under the severe service and they covered themselves. Get the customer every time. I watch it happen on a daily basis. CAFE is the only reason for the ultra low viscosity oils. If you look at the owners manuals for everywhere outside of the USA, they give you a chart for temperature. They say from 0w30 - 20w50 can be used based on temp. This topic has been beat to death on BOB IS THE OIL GUY, and the motor oil geek on UA-cam, as well as every dealer tech on UA-cam. I suggest you visit BITOG and watch dealer you tube channels.
Providing the manufacturer's recommendations are not being influenced by the EPA.
I have been down the oil weight and brand rabbit hole and talked to many engine builders. Currently the GF-6 5W-30 is where it's at.
resource conserving is not your friend. yes, you will see a few more mpg, but resource conserving oils are barely at the hot rating and thin out at operating temps. most have a low HTHS value too and evaporate/vapor easier as evidence of sooty tips. this is my experience.
@@K03sport Thats still an HTHS of 2.9 and most 5w-30's are in the low 3s', which even if it thins a little still offers good protection. I have yet to see any study showing significantly accelerated wear above 2.8 and most studies suggest 2.6 is fine. Track use or heavy driving, yeah I could go thicker, but a 5w-30 should be fine for most street use.
@@K03sport
Heh heh heh, he said sooty tips!
@@AEVMU
Agreed
@@K03sport Probably only about .1 more MPG, and the life of my engine is a whole lot more important than incrementally more MPG.
really like this video. Always questioned using 0w20 in my impreza and wanted to go thicker as well and believe ill be going 5w30 just like my 2018 wrx
Always questioned??? If it's that simple why would someone needs years of studies, training and strong mathematical skills to become an automotive or chemical engineer? We could all make judgement based on how we feel.
I changed my oil at 1000 miles, and then at 3000 miles. I had the dreaded Fuel Pressure Sensor failure at 2000 miles, but the dealer warrantied it, no problem. Going to take it to the dealer for the 6000 mile oil change to put the onus on them for the RTV issue. So far, so good. LOVE the VB, FWIW and YMMV… only mods so far are K&N air filter. VA guys bust my balls about “Nice Civic” but they really are jealous, because…. She rips! Love the vids and keep up the good work!
What they do for oil pressure sensor failure they just reset it ?
@@josephcrigger4818 It was actually the fuel pressure sensor. They replaced it under warranty. No problems since.
Well. You’ve answered my question. I live in thailand where it is boiling year round and my corolla cross comes with 0W20 and it’s recommended. But the dealer when i brought it in for the first service recommended i put the “better one”. I didn’t know what they meant but i looked at the receipt and they put 5w40 instead. I asked them if they were sure it’s okay and they said yes. So I’ve been researching all day and you’ve answered why they put that in.
I was curious, do you have a oil temperature gauge? I was just wondering if there was a temperature difference with using the thicker oil
I would say that the metal shavings you saw were possibly also first oil change metals from initial assembly. Ive found them in all of my new cars. I think, for my FA20 wrx it took one or two oil changes to not see those anymore. And that FA was a very happy motor and made great power with consistency. My tuner used it as a test bed and it never had an issue or metal in the pan after the first 2 changes
I would agree. I just did a first oil change at 500mi on an FA24, and there were tons of metal specs floating in the pan (like the folds of a brain) plus a few chunks in the bottom. Pic on Instagram.
Definitely not from a previous oil drain.
if the manual says '''under harsh driving conditions, we recommend using [OIL GRADE blah blah]" could they still deny your warranty if you specifically used one of those oils? assuming all other conditions were met.
Thinking about moving my tundra from 0-20 to 5-30. In South Carolina
Im in the north east. So 0-20 for winter 5-40 for the summer.. thats all i needed great vid and thank you 😎
If you drive spirited, let alone track use, switching to a 5w-40 or 0w-40 is a must. In my VQ37VHR motor it really helped as the motor already struggles with oil temps.
Oil cooler
your turd needs a 40w oil because the vq37 runs really hot and the oem 370z oil cooler is TERRIBLE. the reality is that you could run a 20w if you could keep it under about 230 degrees F or so.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO Low tier troll post
@@solocamo3654 be mad all you want. you and i both know the 350/370 oil coolers have problems keeping the engine oil cool during normal driving, let alone at a HPDE.
240F is easy to hit for normal driving conditions in the summer, and it just gets worse from there.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO Good news is the motor is in my daily G37 in FL and does just fine. My "turd" has been extremely reliable. I acknowledged the oil cooling issues in my very first post so I don't get what you are on about. It's a known issue for track use.
If simply needing additional cooling makes the motor a turd well you've got to learn a lot about some other 'performance' motors and reliability issues. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-40 has taken me to 130k miles and counting and the motor has no problem with my very spirited daily driving in the FL heat.
Thank you, this video answered my questions! 🔥😎
5W30 all year round, MN weather
I had problems with 0W20
2023 Subaru WRX
I switched to Motul 5W30 at 1500km. I was also surprised to see how bad the oil was and the amount of crap on the magnetic drain plug. At 10,000km I changed the Trans/diff fluid to Motul 300... oil was clean, but lots of crud on the drain plugs.
all engines have high wear in the beginning. It's why I always change my oil at 500, 2k, 5k, then every 5k. I had a magnetic drain plug on my 6.4 hemi truck, and after about 100k miles there was never anything on it. Lots more wear the first 25-50k.
What are the factory/stock main and rod bearing oil clearances on a VB WRX? I don't know, wish I did, I've looked but found numbers all over the place, but the bearing oil clearance plays a big part of what oil viscosity you should use, along with oil temp and pressure.
Got dang it man! Again right on time with this info as well! All great points especially running thicker oil in the summer! Appreciate the info sir!
first oil change i noticed on the invoice the dealer used 5w30, i questioned the change because the manual and oil cap clearly say 0w20; girl said "no , that's what we run in the new wrx." i asked if it were because of the summer months, and she reiterated her statement. not a big deal, but the book says one thing and the dealership another.
Dealers will be fined if they don't adhere to our corrupt governments standards.
All dealers use 5w30 on cars that use 0w20 cause there both compatible
During your time at IIR I began to use their oil change kit for the VA chassis and that is Motul 5 w30 I live within high altitude cold climate but will be moving back to sea level and feel like that s boule be good all the way around.
100% I was using motul for a while but it's a bit expensive wnd I'm on a budget right now so that's why I went with Rotella.
@@StreetInspired1 I’ve got people in our car club that use the retells but have had a hard time finding it.
Subaru STI Japan recommends 5W40 on track or street. Personally and also on the advice of my tuner I put 0W40 on my tuned E85 GT86.
Is your tuner going to provide warranty coverage on your engine? Every man and his dog is an armchair scientist now. For me, I'm just gonna stick to the recommended viscosity. Appreciate your video, thank you, it is interesting food for thought.
I agree about the environment, MPG and lighter weight oil and what's next, sewing machine oil?
These thin oils also tend to burn - so you have to keep a closer eye on the level. Annoying. I'm with you on running something more reasonable like 5W30 or 5W40.
For tropical climate country (everyday around 18°C - 35°C) which oil is the best between 0w30 VS 0w40 VS 5w30 VS 5w40 ?
I had just posted this but, my 2023 VB just hit around 214 degrees F on the oil temp, and I baby my car as I’m still breaking it in (500 miles on the dash, not passing 3600rpm) the outside temps were 79-82 degrees; givin we were driving for about 45-55mins . However my wife said she saw some sort of temperature warning on the screen flash. Didn’t see it myself but now I’m starting to research what to do without voiding warrantee…
I know this is a year old, but if you can't go to a higher viscosity, Redline, which is pricey, tends to run a bit thicker than it's competitors in the same grade. I also has a higher anti-wear additive package. You could try Redline in 0w20 if that's what's required by warranty.
@@lonniebeal6032 are you saying this wouldn’t void my warranty? Using redline as long as it’s 0w20
My buddy had bad experience with Rotella oil. I use motul 5w40 on my second oil change at every 3k and never look back. So far no issues
Bad experience how? But motul is a great choice!
@@StreetInspired1 Higher ZDDP level may increase the coefficient of friction and lead to higher temperatures of the piston rings. High temperature is always bad. You want an oil with the best and most stable friction modifiers. Not the oil designed for slow diesel engines.
Won’t void warranty the manual says if 0W-30 isn’t available you can use 5W-30
No argument here. My last TunerTalk we talked about oil and Graham said for performance just do 5-30. I actually had an interview with Tanner from Smeedia as well and he said the same. For performance 100% go higher. Tanner said he runs EVEN HIGHER on his EJs. That's a surprise to me haha
Definitely! For someone who is just dailying it and nevwr beats on it they're probably fine, but I want better protection because I have fun with my car.
How high of viscosity was he using in his ej engines?
5W40 all the way in the EJ
@@StreetInspired1 yea I put my VB through some hell so I'll be changing next weekend for sure. 🤣
@@204_mod_shop I have to go back and look but I'm pretty sure he said 20-50..I was like W H A T 😐
I live in socal and our winters aren’t really that cold but our summers get really hot. Which oil should i go with?
Im no engineer, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but if you're In Cali where it's never really cold a 5w-30 or 5w-40 would make the most sense to me.
@@StreetInspired1 that def makes sense! I also beat on it once a day and plan on tuning it soon so I will change to that new oil soon!
I found your video in my quest for the ultimate oil for most purposes. I also was skeptical on the 0W-20 oil being used in most engines the last 10-12yrs. I ran up on this blogger who is a mechanical engineer by trade and a lifetime engine builder. In one article he says to use the thinnest oil ideally no thinner than 5W-30 while still making acceptable hot oil pressure. He also torture tested at least 278 individual oils. His current #1 is Quaker State “Full Synthetic” 5W-30. Barely edging out Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30. Our beloved Rotella T6 5W-40 ranks a very low #251. German Castrol 0W-30 #244. I switched all my cars to Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 from dino HM oil. Now that I’ve seen Subaru in other parts of the world recommend 5W-30 (0W-20 in the US) I’m gonna recommend EVERYONE in a normal car run the QSFS 5W-30. NOTE Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 is #1 NOT the newer “ultimate durability” 5W-30 which falls to #36. Scroll down 20% to the ranking list: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
Good to know i live in va and probably going to go 5w-30, i have seen from various places it supposedly could void warrenty.
What part of va
I’m running 0-30w in all my 0-20w vehicles
Thinking about about switching to 0-40w for my other 0-30w boost vehicles
Why, is it well over 35 c?
I have been considering switching to euro 40 weight oil in my new GTI. The light oil makes me nervous. But VW insists I have to use their oil.
You can switch to 0w40
Its a 2.0 tsi ?
Other than marginal mpg decrease, have you seen any other disadvantage of using thicker oil? Like more wear at cold start ups? Or that's not quantifiable enough to tell the difference.
So the first number on the oil Is the cold viscosity. So in cold climates the 0W oil is fair game. If you're in a cold climate and switch to 5W or 10W it could cause more wear on cold starts because it's not getting through the engine as quickly. But 5W is rated down to -22°F. That's why I didn't see an issue switching to 5W when the coldest winters I get here in PA are 20°F
also look for resource conserving and non-resource conserving. RC oils tend to be a "light" version of their stated weight and thin out at operating tempa and have low HTHS numbers.
Scotty Kilmer says that using a thicker oil than recommended could actually increase engine wear along with less mpg
So how often do you change this oil? You did not mention your intended oil change interval.with Rotella. Did you ask that tuner whether he has any proof that Rotella saved any WRX's rod bearings from failing?
0W-20 drops it's kinematic viscosity from 8 to about 6.5 cSt at 100 degrees over time in most engines which is bad. 5W-20 stays pretty much at the same level of viscosity during the entire service interval which is good. This is what you need. Using a very high viscosity oil won't help anything. It won't hurt either except for the fuel consumption. But using a shear stable oil is important.
Yes...i use 5w20 in my 0w20 recommended vehicle...more stable and less volatility burn off....saw a test 0w20 vs 5w20.. same brand....5w20 outperformed in wear scar size...in fact,5w20 did real close to 5w30 in the same test.
All you did going to a 5w20 is increase the time between the oil will break down at high temperatures over 0W20. You only changed the Winter viscosity, at higher temps the second number needs to go up. There are currently 2 videos, one from the motor oil geek, the other from Projectfarms. Both videos have 5w30 protecting the motor better than 0W20. I do agree if you're under warranty to maybe sneak in 5w20 over 0w20 for warmer weather, but, 5w30 is still better.
@@lonniebeal6032 I am not sure I understand. A shear stable oil loses less viscosity no matter how long you use the oil. For example, if a plain 0W-20 becomes a 6.5 cSt oil let's say after 2000 km and a 5W-20 drops down to 7.5 cSt. This means that the 5W-20 stays thicker by 10-15%. Oils don't thin out indefinitely. There is a limit.
So i live in florida where most the time its hot with a gr86/ fa24 should i use 5w30 or 0w30? Ive been using 0w20 for the past 3 oil changes. im at 13, 700 miles, im about to have my 15k service (including oil pan + pickup inspection done earlier this time i had the oil change a little above 3k miles each time once i went 4.2k miles before a oil change. Getting worried for my car it seems fine though.
Try Pennzoil ultra 5w30, smooth as silk for 86 motor
@@rzb1101 heard ill prolly switch to it after my last free oil change lol
I was using 5w40 in my 2022 and 2021 wrx. I talked to few dealership service depts and they said if there is a warranty claim and Subaru finds that are using wrong oil they will deny any warranty claim for the engine. How true is this?
I've heard of it happening. If you're under warranty, use Redline of the reccommended viscosity during the summer, it has a higher than most anti-wear additive package as proven by oil analysis from projectfarms.
How’s the car now?
A interesting oil review, here in Australia Subaru recommends 5W/30 for my four Subaru WRX from 2006 to my present 2020, i would prefer to use 5W/40 due to our usual hot summer temperature ? So far i have had no issues using 5w/30 👍 Au
I would’ve like to hear the engine run on both oils out of curiosity
Wish I had learned all this info before a few days back 😂 Just did a Motul 0w-20 change. Planning on going Cobb AP in the next week so I guess I need to swap to at least 5W-30.
Should I change the oil filter out too when I swap oils or since the filter is only a few days old is that okay? (Sorry if that’s a dumb question)
Just keep the oil in and switch on your next scheduled oil change.. it’s not going to effect anything that drastically
most filters, even small ones can go 2 change intervals. most change filters every interval for cheap $5-10 insurance.
I always just use what is recommended for my climate when it comes to oil. Your definitely right about everyone and their grandpa will have a different opinion lol. Also thank you for the story about the AOS vs catchcans from your tuner. Appreciate learning this stuff and it is a great article.
it's kinda crazy, but this similar issue are popping up not only in auto industry but in heavy industry and manufacturing side as well.
Oil refiners had to change the refining method or using different formula to create different kinds of oil, but with resulting performance specs matching what the grade of oil used to be.
They are still classified, labeled as same oil.
Now we are getting insane varnishing build ups or oil dropping its viscosity far too quickly than the older formulas used to be, and requires many different kinds of PMs and CMs to address them.
I am assuming the adaptation of OW-20 oil went under similar thought process.
I don't mind swapping my oil to 5W or even 10W for higher viscosity, but I shall be using engine block heater to keep the oil warm to prevent bearing wiping during engine start up.
Can I ask why you were looking for RTV in the drained out oil.
When these first came out, everybody was freaking out about excess RTV in the oil. Most people find it draining the oil and stuck in their oil pickup tube. I haven't checked the oil pickup but thought if any rtv was present I would find at least some in the drained oil.
I have an Audi 2.0 TDI from 2024. Some time ago, 5-30 oil was put in that engine. Now the manufacturer says 0-20?! I really don't trust that oil and would rather put 5-30, but some say that maybe the oil rings and the oil pump are designed differently. What do you think about that?
They want to sell you more Audis and you want to keep yours as long as possible?😂😂
I just did my 5k oil change 2 weeks ago with 0W-20. Between then and now, I’ve seen your video and a few other sources that convinced me to go up to a 5W-30/40 - can I just drain and refill do you think? Or do I have to put a new filter on even though it’s only been in for about 300 miles so far?
No need to change the filter, go with 5w30 Mobil 1 EP or Castrol Edge EP
I have a 2001 LS 5.3 with 120k miles and it started the infamous lifter 'tick'. I ran a can of Liqui-Moli engine flush to clean out deposits and changed to 5w-40. The tick is GONE!
I used Rotella in my 6.0 powerstroke build, it's good stuff, I'm in MN so now you got me thinking about atleast moving to 5-30w. This rtv stuff is bothering me, and if your oil is only 1500 miles then I think I'm due since I live on gravel and at almost 4500. Also do you use stock oil filters or a specific brand, heard good stuff about wix.
...factory filter is fine and can be had cheaper than wix (shop around and don't buy from the service department unless you can get a discount on a 5pk)
honda VN, tropical, recommend 0w16, 20, 5w30......still should use 40?
Any particular brand of oil filter do you use and does the box comes with the new washer for your oil drain plug?
I always use an oem wix filter and the washer doesn't come with it you'll have to buy it separate.
The most reputable tuners recommend 10W40 oil. I would love to see some analysis done on your rotella. The difference isn't much but at low temps the 10 weight is optimal.
I used Rotella on my Zx14 and Hayabusa which shares the trans and engine oil. Rotella lost viscosity quicker than other oils I used.
The dollars saved by using 0W20 for the average person is very tiny. But when you do the math for the 1.4 billion cars on the road, it's a pretty big number. I figure it must be in the 70 million gallons range.
Something doesn't add up for me here... How can an oil has a maximum operational temperature that is lower than the engine operating temperature? Most cooling systems keep the engine at around 95⁰c, and this is what ANY oil that you put inside your engine will experience. Now, for the winter rating, I can understand the lower number because the engine will be started at the lower temperature, but the engine will never be started at the higher temperature than its operating temperature.
They want to sell you more parts and cars than have your same car running for 20 years 300k miles😀😀
@@tc3065
While I agree with that. It still doesn't answer my question.
My question is that I completely understand why we need different viscosities at lower temperatures, as cold starting the engine is a different temperature depending of where you are in the world and what the weather is. But viscosity for the upper end (the "30" in 5w-30), is the same for all of us, as the engine operating temperature is the same everywhere.
Again thanks for the video , lots of info rattling in head, and still waiting for delivery. I got a million questions lol 😅
Hey, I absolutely beat the fuck outta my VB daily and I live in MN. We get hellllla hot but also hella hella cold, what oil would you recommend for me?
Something that starts with a 0W is essential for cold start lubrication in very cold climates.
Its simple run what the manufature says to run. They designed and built the engine. Dont listen to this dotard talking nonsense its obvious he has no clue what he is talking about.
I thought there was a filter in the engine somewhere that catches the big pieces of RTV? Have you checked that?
I cut my filter open on my first change and didnt see any RTV. I even looked between all the pleats. There are guys beating the Hell out of these cars and turning them close to 7000 RPMs and they haven't had any oiling issues.
@@chrischarles9218 he’s talking about the basket inside the oil pickup. You’d have to drop the oil pan to check.. there have been no engine failures so far with rtv as the confirmed main cause. though so a lot of people are blowing it out of proportion
@@pharmztko Oh yes I have seen that trapezoid oil pickup. Good thing it's submerged in the oil pan and has 5 sides.
For warranty as long as you have proof that you have been doing oil changes regularly then you should be fine. Where your warranty could be bodied is if you can’t proof that the service has been done
I've heard of dearlerships sending oil out for analysis, stick to what's in the manual or they may void mechanical issues.
I use 0W30 or 0W40 in my Crosstrek. I bought it used with 60K miles, so no warranty. I also use Duralube. It gets great fuel economy. I haven't had consumption issues. It starts great at -10°F.
Those viscosities flow great as synthetics during cold startups. They should protect better at high temps.
An oil analysis will tell the truth. I doubt Duralube has Molyb at 537 ppm, or phosphorous at 1175, or zinc at 1270 like Redline. Get an oil analysis done on fresh, unused oil.
I don’t use oil because gretta said it’s bad
How dare you! Now eat ze boogs 🪲🐛
@@tear728 the only people not mad are the French
How dare you!
Where are you located? What’s the temps get to in the winter and summer? Will you switch weights with season?
I live in Pennsylvania. The coldest temperature my car sees in the winter is like 20°F and in the summer, the hottest it sees is about 95°F. I will probably run 5W-40 In the summer and maybe a 0W-30 if we get a cold winter.
@@StreetInspired1Why all that matters is cold winter start up. Any other time the motor is at operating temp it dont matter what the outside temp is the engine will.still be the same temp. Using a 40w oil when 0w20 is recommended is stupid and will cause engine damage over time.
@@jamesvw769 Guess you don't watch your temperature gauge in 32f vs 100f drives...
You are right! That oil looks cruddy for 1500 miles. I try to change new car oil before 1000 miles. As, I understand it, the 0-16 oil is a better grade oil. Recommended for turbo 4's etc. I used it on my Honda Accord 2T without any problems. I am now using 0-16 (GF-6) on both our CRV's. One turbo, one hybrid. No problems. I change oil every 5,000 miles and do not use any brown oil. (used oil refurbished from used oil and used as new, especially at new car dealers. Brown oil usually referred to as bulk oil or oil from a brown barrel. I am an average driver. As an aside, only 30 weight oil for my John Deere mower. It has been running flawlessly for over 30 years. It is a Kawasaki liquid cooled engine.
Get an oil analysis, Blackstone labs isn't too pricey...
Did you put Teflon tape on the bolt?
No, just the OEM crush washer
I agree with what you said. Similar gov regulations also are to blame for the bad exterior designs.
you mean the pedestrians w/their nose in phone, not paying attention as they cross a street (sometimes in the crosswalk)...the government made car designers create pedestrian friendly front ends for absent minded pedestrians because the general public/pedestrian can't pay attention on their own when around 3000-4000 lb cars. blame the pedestrians ; not the government
is changing the viscosity of your oil voids the warranty? I know factory recommends 0w20, but It's gets hot in where I'm at in the summer (over 100F)
He said “Who knows”. I would ask the your local dealer to verify.
You can't give a dealer any excuse to void your warranty. Use Redline 0W20, it has the highest anti-wear additive package I've seen, with Castrol Edge Extended Performance next.
Solid logic- thanks for the vid
Thanks for taking the time it was helpful.
Im in Scranton now. You have me thinking the same
granted, 0-20 was for fuel economy numbers; but personally, you shouldn't need to run more than a x-30 oil. One thing I've noticed w/resource conserving (RC) oil is the tips get black w/soot quickly. I switched to pennzoil euro-L 0-30 (Porsche C30 rating w/3.5 HTHS) a non-resource conserving oil and noticed my tips don't get as dirty as quickly. also noticed my car's overall mpg and miles to empty numbers are closer to real world numbers and not as inflated w/RC oil.
Do you cold crank flood your car after an oil change?
I've never done it on any vehicle I've owned and never had an issue, only time ive done it is for larger jobs like a turbo swap where i drian all the oil and add new oil lines and turbo (to make sure the new turbo has oil in it before the engine fires) Might do it now with this car since its a simple built in feature
Did you have a RTV problem?
Where did you find that chart?
Oil viscosity? They've been online for ages...
If cooling system works correctly, engine working temperature is about the same unless you live in extreme areas and system can't keep up. Low viscosity oils are also fit better for engines that use oil hydraulics for their various systems like VVTI, lifters etc. In addition to faster circulation and action of these systems, it is more stable and have better capacity from evaporation leading to thickening. General rules of mechanics the faster the part rotates, the less viscosity oil should have to keep up with parts filling gaps etc. Like found in turbines etc. The slower and more loaded parts require heavier oil. Wide spread in viscosity require more thickeners which are polymers chains unwinding at higher temperature adding viscosity to base oil. In addition to wear out, they find way beyond rings with oil creating even heavier carbon deposits. Therefore wide spread viscosity oils better be avoided unless you have really legit reason. Viscosity drops with temperature, thickening due to evaporation, viscosity drop due to breaking viscosity improvers polymers and many other factors work together often in opposite directions. Remember everything in life is a compromise. You just have to know what you gain or sacrifice at what cost
I consider 40c or 100f constantly as extreme. 10w40. Or a constant 32f also is extreme, 0w20 or 0w16.
@@lonniebeal6032 I think it would be wrong approach. Check engine temperature at least by instrument gauge needle.. At temperatures you listed, the working temperature will be the same about 100c. Actually around 103c due to pressure created by the radiator cap. These are not extreme temperatures at all. In this case oil should be used following manufacturer. Viscosity was selected by engine design, hydraulics used actuators used, rpm, load
Etc
I literally had to run out to the garage, pop the hood and stare in wonder at the numbers on the oil fill cap! I traded my 2018 in for the 22 and it ran 5w30 at least. 0w20 is insane to run in any engine let alone a "performance" engine. Thanks for the heads up and if my dealer wont use 5w30 for my "free" oil changes for the next 2 years then I guess I will be back to doing my own again. Really appreciate the heads up!
I went to the shop at my dealership after I bought my VB and all the techs told me to use 5w-30 for the reasons explained in this video.
what's in the manual? dealer will follow the manual...
@@K03sport Manual say 0w20 Mechanic at dealer said use 5w30
Make sure you do an oil analysis. Personally run 5w40 motul or 10w40 Puröl in my 20 STI
I'm reading all these people worrying about which viscosity to use because of weather climates. As a mechanic I recommend people use the viscosity your vehicle requires for. If your oil cap says 0w20 use 0w20, if it say 5w20 use 5w20. Modern vehicles require for low viscosity oil because it will be nice and thin so as to work properly when the engine is cold. But it will maintain correct thickness and viscosity at normal operating temperatures. It doesn't matter how hot or cold it is outside, the normal operating temperatures is MUCH hotter around 90 degrees C. It won't get any hotter along the cooling system working properly.
You're not really qualified to talk about oil specifications for cars since you think a car that is specified for 5W-20 is precluded from using 0W-20 which is not true as a 0W-20 is just an improved 5W-20 oil (0W-20 are always synthetic). The number after the - is what counts in terms of engine compatibility and even that is up for debate.
The motor geek ran 0w20 vs 5w30 in a high performance engine, the 0W20 had more metal particles in it from the oil analysis, kinda shoots that other BS down.
U can use either oil many owners manuals say u. Can use 5w30 in extreme driving conditions and use 0w20 for better fuel economy and cold climates
I absolutely agree with this post.
VW in their manuals calls for VW spec oil not weight, so i ran VW 0W-30 because it was actually cheaper than the usual 5W-30 on my TDI engine, oil quality and spec is much more important than oil weight i think and i just go with the price
Great video, man! Thought about doing the same with my Outback but I’m just not sure yet.
So true smart person.
Toyota already has 0-8 already, toyota says the 0-8 weight for hot days too.
he is a wise man 0w20 it is stupid to use it above 0 degrees C especially in turbo charge engine
Dude great Video I don’t know 🤷🏾♂️ why people get butt hurt on this oil Topic I am with you lighter Oil is ok for Gas mileage & newer cars but when that engine ages with time in certain climates, it’s going to break that lighter oil down quicker, Specially Turbo power vehicles I have a sport 19 Accord 2.0 my next oil change I am running Thicker oil that simple I stay in FL GOD BLESS MAN….!!!!!!
Your not free of RTV. Use a bore scope and look into your oil pickup tube. You'll find different. My pan was entirely clean but at my 5k oil change I looked with my bore scope and boom! Have fun!
I'm sure there's some in the pickup screen. One of these days when I'm already ripping the car apart I'll service it!
You're going to have a burning oil in the future. The pistons rings are not designed to work on that car. Stick on 0w20. You're not covered under warranty.
Freeze some 0W20 for 24hrs, it pours like honey, that's a lie about ruining your rings, however a deal may do his beast not to honor a warranty, so yes to the warranty. Also I read Kia's are running 5W50 in Austraila, and not having near the problems we are here in the US.
The low this year where I live was 20 degrees and the high was 115. Ugh. lol
Here in canada goes -35celcius to +30 for temp ranges
This is also a rabbit hole as some 5w40's are actually closer to a 5w30 while some are closer to a 5w50. My 0w-40 is closer to a 0w30 but still passes as a 40 technically.
5w30 is good and best fit in FA engine. 02-11 manual are for ej engine. However I using motul 5w30 in my 21 sti never shear down to 20. No oil lose. Change every 3k miles.
If the owners manual allows for such a thickness, you won't void the warranty.
What are people running in Colorado I have 18k miles feel like I’ve already fucked yo the car maybe at least it’s been cold here
what is rtv
Rtv is basically a silicone that dries like a rubber gasket. They use it to seal various parts of the engine like the valve covers and the oil pan.
@@StreetInspired1 Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone.
Brotella isn't great oil. If you're going to run a higher grade try the European xW40s....much better oils.
2016 and 2017 Audi TT, with 3rd gen EA888 2.0 liter turbo required 5W40...then they switched in 2018 to 0W20. Same engine! Didn't explain to the public in clear and convincing manner as to why and as to the effects. Strange. And makes me nervous. So no thanks on 0W20.
Same thing on my 2018 VW, it was the last 5w40 Golf (with 5w30 being an acceptable alternative). From 2019 model year on, those call for 0w20. And just realized the dealer used 0w20 on my last oil change…
@@ethanflook that's a major drop in HTHS. I guess they know better...or don't care.
I did the same through a UA-cam channel. 5-30 and 5-40 in summer.