Faulty heater on Vauxhall Corsa C.. Thermostat? Trapped air? Faulty matrix? Fuse? Talking through
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- Talking through some of the problems that can cause a faulty heater on the old Vauxhall Corsa C.
Remember to ensure you have no loose clothing when you work on a car!!!
Firstly, check the fan inside the car is working. Even if it is blowing out only cold air it means the fuse is ok.
Secondly, check the water is up to the correct point in the coolant tank.
You could have air trapped in the system. With the car cold loosen the cap a bit on the coolant tank. REMEMBER: On a hot car the water is under pressure and water could spurt out and scald you!!! Then letting the car warm up and pressing the hoses repeatedly may squeeze out trapped air and solve the problem. It really could be that simple!!!
If the thermostat is stuck open this will affect the operation of the heater. Changing the thermostat is really easy (and other videos on UA-cam show you exactly how to do this better than this video). REMEMBER: If removing the themostat do not do so when the car is hot!!! Also remember you will need to catch the old coolant and dispose of it properly.
It is a good idea to drain the whole radiator and remove the plug from the radiator at the same time. I tell you how in this video.
This next bit is your call... It can be a good idea to run radiator flush through the system (a little bottle is only a few quid) HOWEVER if your radiator and/or matrix are very old it could mean the system begins to leak if it removes lots of rust. Personally, I decided to risk it and run it with rad flush in for 20 minutes and it only did good....If you got a small leak you could add some radweld to the system to block the leak but this could be somewhat counterproductive on an old Corsa C with a faulty heater.
Changing the themostat (cost me £10 in parts), a bit of radflush (£3) and a litre of anti freeze (£7) means I got my heater working myself for only £20. Wooo-hoo!!!!
REMEMBER!!!! When you top up the system for the final time (you may find you need to flush through a couple of times) you must add at least one litre of anti freeze to your system. ALSO REMEMBER that when you fill up the car from cold the level may very well drop when the system heats up and the thermostat opens. Stand by to add more water or coolant.
WARNING!!! If you run the car with insufficient water/coolant you will cause a lot of damage so be very careful. When you are sure it is ok take a very short drive and check the level again and then another short drive and check again. You really can't be too careful with this - if some air was trapped the system can drop again - it doesn't necessarily mean there is a leak!!!
FINALLY, remember to keep a careful eye on your coolant system over the next few days in case the level drops again OR if a leak develops.
HOPEFULLY this solves your problem and the heater will work for you. The heater on mine is not perfect but is loads better than before and I can't see the point is changing the matrix (because it works well enough) or running a ton more radflush through it that may cause more problems than it solves in such an old cooloing system.
A semi competent mechanic can change the heater matrix themselves and it can take anything from a half hour if you are really good to a number of hours if you are not. Just remember to drain the system before removing the matrix or you're going to have very very soggy carpets!!! Other videos on UA-cam will take you through this.
Thirdly, is the water very dirty,
If you cut the matrix hose clamps off you can buy a replacement hose and jubilee xclips from Halfords for £10 instead of £70 to replace a single hose from Vauxhall.
Checling the pipes in and out of matrix helps also
If you sit in the car you can here the water rush through when thermo opens id wait for that before starting on the thermo.
My corsa c 1.4 twinport 2006 takes long to heat to 90 degrees and when i drive it stays on 80 degrees on the highway and only when my corsa c engine idles stationary on 900 rpms i increases back to 90 degrees
Hi. My coolant gradually disappears. Had it on a pressure test no leaks. No obvious white smoke from exhaust and the oil is clear. But noticed that my heater doesn’t seem to be as hot as I thought it should be. Could this cause coolant loss?
huh, i have the exact same issue. the heater only blows how air whilst im driving, if im idle it'll just blow out freezing cold air
@@YAGB first of all guys if you cannot find outside leaks its definately leaks to oil . remember if its small leak you wont see much of at difference in fuems or anything inn oil . Use special coler repair which you add to your coolant reservoir and it will seal any leaking holes in aluminium ( it repairs aluminium holes). It worked for me i had some serious leaking and it stoped. i bought it as 'sand' of nano aluminium dirt. Someone suuggested its better than similiar products in form of a fluid. and i had leaks inside to oil
should my temperature gauge always be around 88/90?
It would not do it any harm. Bit below I would say not a problem but I don't think you would want it too much hotter.
Does a bad heater matrix cause footwell leak (rainwater) in the drivers side?
Hi, well water could leak from a hose or the matrix but rainwater would be coming from somewhere else. Not from inside the matrix. Possibly a leak around the windscreen seal and this would only happen when raining.
@@andyhollinshead9293 Ahh thank you mate for the reply 🤝
Brake booster seal gets rotten and waters starts to drip in the driver footwell. If it is wet only after rain it is brake booster seal for sure. Luckily it is fixable and there are plenty of tutorials online.
If it doesnt smell like coolant and just smells like stagnant ponds its rainwater and will 100% be the brake servo mounting plate seal. A beast of a job, 2 days inc drying carpets. Plenty of guides on UA-cam and the net.