6.7 CUMMINS Grid Heater Delete and Intake Horn INSTALL
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- In this video I show you just the basics on how to install a grid heater delete kit, as well as an aftermarket intake horn on a 6.7 Cummins. Specifically, a 13-18 model year 6.7.
GDP is where I prefer to get these parts.
www.glacierdie...
Also good to note is:
garofaloent.ne...
Thank you for watching.
What is the sensor on the grid heater that you had to move over?
@@runawaygarage pretty sure it’s a temp sensor
Did you remove the grid heater relay by the battery as well or just the cable running to the grid heater ?
Just the cable. The relay is still there.
I have a 2018 6.7 thays 2nd gen swapped do you know if I can run an aftermarket valve cover like yours without a catch can? I'm running the stock valve cover now with a hose running to the atmosphere
As long as the valve cover you buy utilizes a GOOD baffle system, you would NOT need a catch can.
The D&J cover is known for being one of the best at keeping oil from escaping.
But if you run an aftermarket cover that just has -10 or -12 bungs on it, then you WILL need a catch can.
what's the y connection on the upper coolant hose on the newer trucks?
Dual radiator
Looks like it would fit the 21 model to idk what would be different?
Check out my other videos. We did these same parts on my buddies 2020. GDP makes the same kit for the 19+ trucks. Just go to their website and check it out.
Can you still continue to use the stock intake horn or do you need to buy a new one when installing a grid heater delete?
You can use the stock intake horn.
They are very restrictive. But you can use it with a grid delete.
Will that fit a ealy 04 6.7L swap with the TPS in the way ?
When you removed the fuel lines from the head it looks like you capped of the connections on the head, what did you use?
Yes I put caps on them just to try and keep them clean. Honestly I just have a bucket full of random caps from over the years.
That hole in the side did you plug that or is there a sensor that goes there
If you are talking about the hole next to the 5 1/8” npt ports then yes, a factory sensor goes there from the stock intake. 👍🏼
Nice video and thanks for putting it together. What did you do with the power cable going to stock grid heater?
Sorry for the late reply to this. I completely removed that power cable from the solenoid on the passenger side. It’s not needed anymore if you are running no heater like me. Thanks for watching!!!
Great video!
Thank you!!
Awesome video
Thank you!
Dude thanks for the video. I have a 3rd gen. Would you recommend deleting Heater grid up here in Mn ? Also what happens to the plug that was in the old horn? Do you have to retune? I’m assuming that plug will throw a code. Thanks man 🙏
No prob! Thanks for watching!! Here’s what I’ll say about the grid. They are restrictive. They do get filthy from the EGR, and they can be problematic. BUT, they work very very well. Especially in cold climates. Here is what I suggest. Go to GDP’s website. They make a intake horn and an aftermarket grid heater that is very nice. So you can delete the stock grid heater plate. And run the aftermarket grid heater that bolts in place of the throttle valve. (Assuming your a 6.7 3rd gen)
As for this plug, I’m not following what you mean. You do not need a re tune for a grid delete or Intake horn. 👍🏼
Any gaskets that need to be purchased
Nope the gdp kit comes with everything you need.
@@everydaydiesel do you have a link to the kit
@@wylet1143 www.glacierdieselpower.com
Here’s the website. It’s all on there.
When I order the kit it says “choose application” (standerd pickup) or (cab and chassis) what does that mean
@@wylet1143 well, do you have a 2500/3500 pickup truck? Or a 3500/4500 cab & chassis truck?
Im thinking about replacing my valve cover and stock breather. And get one like yours. Have you had any issues with your breather on your valve cover?
Nope no problems at all. The D&J cover is the way to go.
I also have a video on installing that as well.
Was there no gasket between the horn and the heater delete plate?
Yes there is a gasket there.
Do I have to egr delete for this ?
No. You can do a grid heater delete with emissions all intact.
Do you have to bleed the fuel system when you’re done?
@@cjaoff-road7269 nope. Should fire up pretty much right away.
@@everydaydiesel ok thank I have an 02 cummins and had to bleed the air out of the system before it would fire correctly. Getting ready to do this to my wife 17 cummins.
@@cjaoff-road7269 an 02 and a 17 are nothing alike. Two completely different systems
@@everydaydiesel I understand that I wanted to make sure before diving into it.
Is it worth trying to clean all of the soot out of the intake plenum or is it better off to leave it so it doesn't potentially scratch the cylinder?
It depends on how bad it is in my opinion.
Mine wasn’t horrible. So I left it alone.
But I have also in the past taken a pick or screwdriver and a shop vac and clean it all out too. Just make sure you keep the vac close and don’t let anything go into the cylinders.
what is name of that cover that I saw at the beginning of the video that had the same color?
And thank you for being pro-active responding to other people's comments.
Most do not do that and that shows that you are genuine and care.
@@Tigris_River_Sand_Fleas no problem! Are you talking about the valve cover? Or the brake res cover?
@@everydaydiesel you answered my question as soon as you said valve cover ha-ha! I have a '14 Ram Cummins I have fully deleted, straight piped and tuned. I haven't done anything else though, so I am looking around to see what to do 1st.
This is zombie apocalypse rig lol, so reliability is priority which is why I have a 40g fuel tank in the back, everything to fix a tire, hydraulic jack and a lot more.
So, yea, anything to improve reliability. Not that a 6.7 isn't bulletproof enough already.
@@Tigris_River_Sand_Fleas gotcha. Yeah it’s a D&J valve cover. I have a video on it as well.
@@everydaydiesel I'll check it out. Subscribed brother.
How do i know if my grid heater has been deleted or not
You can look under the hood and tell whether or not it has an aftermarket intake plenum plate or a stock one.
Thanks
Will the grid heater still be connected or disconnected mine is still connected
@@ppowerade69 if it’s a stock intake plenum and the wire is still connected then it’s safe to say it’s all stock and still there.
Do I need a tunner or progrmer to make the grid heater delete ??
Nope. You can delete the grid heater and still be completely emissions intact. It doesn’t require tuning either way.
You just can’t use the intake horn I have if you are intact.
What’s with the big tank on your power brakes ?
That’s just a cover on the brake fluid reservoir.
Also where did you get the fan shroud cover
That is from Far From Stock
Where did you get your fuse box plate?
Full send diesel
how tight did you do the fuel lines, and the fuel rail??
Use a regular wrench. And get them good and tight. Try to remember about what it felt like when you loosened them up. They do not need to be super super tight. Overtightening would not be good.
okay thank you! and any tips for getting the fuel line off cylinder 6? I can break is loose then can't get my 19mm on it after that and still too tight to slide the rail out or undo it by hand@@everydaydiesel
@@That6.7Hellcat you should see in the video I leave the line attached to the head. Just undo it from the rail. It has enough play to get the rail out.
Where did you get the plugs for the fuel rail and intake lines that were removed?
I have a collection of random plugs and caps from years and years of parts that come with them and such.
So I had what I needed.
It’s not necessary. Clean paper towels or something like that will suffice.
@@everydaydiesel Thank you for the quick response. I appreciate it and your content!!
@@JR-fj4vy no prob thanks for watchin!
I have followed your lead and have an another question for you…what did you do to get the #1 injection line to work with the GDP horn?
@@JR-fj4vy I had to dremal some of the powder coat in order for mine to fit. And I had to loosen the 1 line and then tighten down the horn. Then tighten the line. It’ll work.
Is this the s-2 or s-3 version.?
This is the s3
Thanks, all I needed to know to order one!
@@justthetrades416 nice man! If you don’t mind, put in your order comments that you got the info from Every Day Diesel. The word of mouth helps a lot!
Hopefully someone sees this and can help! If you pause at 9:19 right underneath the horn there is a gray plug with a red tab and black sensor it’s connected to, can anyone tell me where that goes? We just did this job on my old man’s 3500 and it drove fine for almost 200 miles but right now my grandpa is out of town with the truck popping a code for a leak between the MAF and throttle body, that same plug and sensor is hanging down on the truck and I can’t remember where that’s supposed to plug in
If I’m looking at the right sensor. It’s a 2 wire sensor and it’s connected to a dummy plug. As in it’s not connected to anything. Or for anything. At least on my truck. However it is part of the egr sensor harness. Further down the same wire loom are two unplugged sensors.
@@everydaydieselthanks for the quick reply! I guess that rules out the plug being an issue lol I hate trying to remote diagnose a problem, sounds like that p2281 code is fairly common so guess it’s time to browse some forums
@@A7Xhockey55 yeah I wouldn’t worry about that particular plug. I’m not familiar with that code but you should be able to find something on it. But you are right, at the end of the day, remote diagnosing isn’t easy
@@everydaydiesel truck is going to be deleted as soon as the tune is finished, it’ll get a good look-over when doing the EGR delete and hopes are that it’s buttoned up and fine after that. I’m thinking we messed up the clamp on the EGR because we had a hard time at the end of the job. Thanks again for the quick replies man!
@@A7Xhockey55 no problem man sounds like you are on the right track!
You’re doing to much with trying to slide this and slide that. Just remove the number 6 line. I literally just did this job on my 3rd gen. It’s easy to remove number 6.
Thanks for the input. But 3rd gens are different than 4th gens.
The 6 Line is pretty tough to get back to.
The way I did it was not any extra work. I’ve done it on 4th and 5th gens. Works great.
👍🏼
Just get the Banks.
Not sure what you mean?
Banks is shit! Boost leaks like no tomorrow!